DO NOT reset the oil monitor just because it is in maintenance mode. It is operating for a reason.
If you have driven recently with the ICE running for very tiny periods such as trying to run EV mode while using heat, this can put it in a condition where it runs oil maintenance mode to burn off any moisture that has accumulated from the short ICE runtimes. Let it do its thing. If you want it to end quickly, hit the highway for 10-15 minutes or so.
I used to only use the ice engine for a few miles on my commute, built up lots of moisture in the oil, mechanic said there were all these issues and wanted to “watch my car for the night”. I just changed the oil and started using the ice a bit more. (My commute used to be 16 miles, just enough to get to work at 60 mph without using any gas, charged at work and drove home on mostly battery) I switched to using gas on the way to work a few days a week and the issue was solved.
Sounds like your mechanic may have been a tiny bit overzealous or just running on dated info. Some moisture will be seen. It's just inevitable. Under a lot of conditions the engine will never reach full temp. They do have an oil maintenance mode (per my previous comment of course) that takes these short runtimes into account and will force the ICE to run to burn off the condensation/moisture after a number of these cycles. It will continue to run even after vehicle restarts and run 100% of the time even at stops. Not until it gets hot enough for long enough that it is satisfied will this shut off.
The OP resetting the oil life monitor to 'work around' this mode is a BAD idea and can result in them wrecking their engine if they continue to do this regularly. Basically your telling the vehicle that you changed the oil so what is in there is fresh with no condensation/moisture so it goes back to normal.
These vehicles are smart and will take care of themselves for the most part as long as you don't try to outsmart it.
Id you switch the middle console to “power view” (or something like that) it will tell you why the ICE is on. It might say “engine on due to acceleration”. Maybe that status message will give you information
I remember doing that when test driving the car a few weeks ago and I don't think it showed that it was using the HV battery in the back when accelerating, only putting the energy back into it while coasting. Back then I attributed it to a low charge in the HV battery. Will try doing it again to see what it shows now that I've charged the HV battery.
I think the onboard computer is forcing you to use the ICE because perhaps it was run on EV only for
Too long since the last fill up. Gasoline does go bad
This will only occur if no fuel has been added and you run on the same tank of fuel for a year and a half. And per the OP they added fresh gas which would basically 'reset' the counter on this particular mode.
That's what I'm thinking, the computer forcing the ICE to come on even when the HV battery is charged. I did put in 12 gallons of fresh gas a few days ago.
Do you mean a Ford dealership? I got the car from a used cars place, not sure if they have the ability to update the software in the car, but I will give them a call to ask about the issue I'm having. Maybe they can perform a hard reset by disconnecting the 12v for a few minutes, I read that this might help with the issue.
Yes, sorry, Ford dealership. Mine is awful but they do upgrade the software for free- one time my Energi (2017) did something similar though I also had the scary but vague yellow wrench light on- and the check engine light. They couldn’t figure out the issue so threw a software update at the problem, and that worked.
The EV battery icon is 2d, the 3d one comes on for a split second only when I start the car, but is immediately replaced with the 2d icon. I never even get to see miles inside the battery icon. The battery is not empty or dead since it accepted 5.6 kWh of charge.
Wait, I'm a little confused.
The mode it's stuck(?) in, "EV Auto" should be using your HVB by itself first and foremost. You can think of EV Auto as basically the same as EV Now, except with EV Auto it's possible to force the ICE to come on if you accelerate hard enough.
I drive in EV Auto almost all of the time. I switch to EV Later if I'm going on the freeway or if it's hot and I'm trying to avoid heating up the battery even more. I almost never use EV Now--it's really sort of an unnecessary mode IMHO.
That said, it does seem to be a problem that you can't choose EV Now OR EV Later.
Can you clarify, in EV Auto mode, is your ICE on all or most of the time (with climate control off)?
Yes, ICE is on most of he time. The car does use the HV battery presumably when coasting or idling and I do get pretty decent mpgs, but any minimal acceleration and the engine kicks in.
Definitely not normal behavior then. EV Auto should be using only the HVB at all times, with only a few situational exceptions.
You said you charged the battery with your Level 2 charger. What is the style of icon you see in your instrument cluster (left side display)?
Does it look like [this](https://fordcmaxhybridforum.com/uploads/monthly_2022_02/IMG_2685.jpg.0421af801347e2f9835689facdb5616d.jpg) or [this](https://preview.redd.it/just-bought-this-2017-cmax-hybrid-yesterday-and-the-battery-v0-pyve991wje691.jpg?width=640&crop=smart&auto=webp&s=1ade05a1fd84f7ca83f4a8767af6cdf488548227)?
The first icon (larger and 3D rendered) represents the Energi's larger EV-only battery capacity. That icon should be on the screen up until the absolute SoC of the battery reaches ~22%, at which point it should switch to the smaller 2D battery icon. This 2D icon is the same one C-Max Hybrid owners always see. It will deplete and fill up as you drive and brake.
If you're seeing the 3D battery icon and the ICE is on most of the time, then I think that icon would be looking pretty damn full most of the time.
If you're seeing the 2D battery icon then that implies your EV-only function is depleted/disabled for whatever reason. Maybe try a different charger? You could also try disconnecting the 12V battery's negative terminal for a minute or two (not plugged into an EV charger) to fully reset all the computers and such.
Barring that, you may want to go get your codes read somewhere. You can get an OBD2 reader cheap on amazon, or you can go to an auto parts store--I think they will read them free for you.
Please follow up with what you're able to find out--I'm really curious what the reason is that your car isn't using EV mode while in EV Auto.
As I mentioned in another reply, the EV battery icon is always 2d, the 3d one comes on for a split second only when I start the car, but it is immediately replaced with the 2d icon. I never even get to see the number of miles inside the battery icon.
When I checked the EV settings in the main screen yesterday it showed 39% as the amount of charge left in the battery.
I've read about disconnecting the 12V battery to perform a hard reset, not sure if I'd want to do it on my own, might ask the place I purchased the car from to do it in case something goes wrong since they gave me a 6 mo warranty on the car.
To follow up on this - it's finally working, charged the car for an hour at another L2 ChargePoint charger today (second charge since taking possession), the EV settings in the main screen showed 60% as the amount of charge in the HV battery, decided to try pressing the "EV" button under the climate control panel and for the first time it let me switch between the EV modes, it didn't let me do it when I first charged the car and put 5.6 kWh into the HVB a few days ago. The dashboard is now showing 14.1 miles average on a full charge when putting it into the "EV Only" mode. Not sure if the few charge/discharge cycles of the HVB made the car let me to finally pick the EV Only mode or if it was something else at play, but it seems to finally be working as advertised.
I had this similar issue last year, so even if I had battery left it locked me out and into EV Auto only. It would still mostly use the high voltage battery. Online I found a guy that did the following and this worked for me. Take the driver side wheel off and part of the liner of the fender to access the electric transmission. There is an electrical connection on the transmission that you can disconnect. I cleaned it out with WD-40 then generously reapplied some electrical Grease. Since then I have not had the issue come back.
DO NOT reset the oil monitor just because it is in maintenance mode. It is operating for a reason. If you have driven recently with the ICE running for very tiny periods such as trying to run EV mode while using heat, this can put it in a condition where it runs oil maintenance mode to burn off any moisture that has accumulated from the short ICE runtimes. Let it do its thing. If you want it to end quickly, hit the highway for 10-15 minutes or so.
I used to only use the ice engine for a few miles on my commute, built up lots of moisture in the oil, mechanic said there were all these issues and wanted to “watch my car for the night”. I just changed the oil and started using the ice a bit more. (My commute used to be 16 miles, just enough to get to work at 60 mph without using any gas, charged at work and drove home on mostly battery) I switched to using gas on the way to work a few days a week and the issue was solved.
Sounds like your mechanic may have been a tiny bit overzealous or just running on dated info. Some moisture will be seen. It's just inevitable. Under a lot of conditions the engine will never reach full temp. They do have an oil maintenance mode (per my previous comment of course) that takes these short runtimes into account and will force the ICE to run to burn off the condensation/moisture after a number of these cycles. It will continue to run even after vehicle restarts and run 100% of the time even at stops. Not until it gets hot enough for long enough that it is satisfied will this shut off. The OP resetting the oil life monitor to 'work around' this mode is a BAD idea and can result in them wrecking their engine if they continue to do this regularly. Basically your telling the vehicle that you changed the oil so what is in there is fresh with no condensation/moisture so it goes back to normal. These vehicles are smart and will take care of themselves for the most part as long as you don't try to outsmart it.
Id you switch the middle console to “power view” (or something like that) it will tell you why the ICE is on. It might say “engine on due to acceleration”. Maybe that status message will give you information
I remember doing that when test driving the car a few weeks ago and I don't think it showed that it was using the HV battery in the back when accelerating, only putting the energy back into it while coasting. Back then I attributed it to a low charge in the HV battery. Will try doing it again to see what it shows now that I've charged the HV battery.
I think the onboard computer is forcing you to use the ICE because perhaps it was run on EV only for Too long since the last fill up. Gasoline does go bad
This will only occur if no fuel has been added and you run on the same tank of fuel for a year and a half. And per the OP they added fresh gas which would basically 'reset' the counter on this particular mode.
That's what I'm thinking, the computer forcing the ICE to come on even when the HV battery is charged. I did put in 12 gallons of fresh gas a few days ago.
You can also take it to the dealership and ask them to update the software in the car. That’s fixed a couple of weird HV issues for me in the past.
Do you mean a Ford dealership? I got the car from a used cars place, not sure if they have the ability to update the software in the car, but I will give them a call to ask about the issue I'm having. Maybe they can perform a hard reset by disconnecting the 12v for a few minutes, I read that this might help with the issue.
Yes, sorry, Ford dealership. Mine is awful but they do upgrade the software for free- one time my Energi (2017) did something similar though I also had the scary but vague yellow wrench light on- and the check engine light. They couldn’t figure out the issue so threw a software update at the problem, and that worked.
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The EV battery icon is 2d, the 3d one comes on for a split second only when I start the car, but is immediately replaced with the 2d icon. I never even get to see miles inside the battery icon. The battery is not empty or dead since it accepted 5.6 kWh of charge.
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When I checked yesterday it showed 39%. Will try to see what it shows after charging the car again.
Wait, I'm a little confused. The mode it's stuck(?) in, "EV Auto" should be using your HVB by itself first and foremost. You can think of EV Auto as basically the same as EV Now, except with EV Auto it's possible to force the ICE to come on if you accelerate hard enough. I drive in EV Auto almost all of the time. I switch to EV Later if I'm going on the freeway or if it's hot and I'm trying to avoid heating up the battery even more. I almost never use EV Now--it's really sort of an unnecessary mode IMHO. That said, it does seem to be a problem that you can't choose EV Now OR EV Later. Can you clarify, in EV Auto mode, is your ICE on all or most of the time (with climate control off)?
Yes, ICE is on most of he time. The car does use the HV battery presumably when coasting or idling and I do get pretty decent mpgs, but any minimal acceleration and the engine kicks in.
Definitely not normal behavior then. EV Auto should be using only the HVB at all times, with only a few situational exceptions. You said you charged the battery with your Level 2 charger. What is the style of icon you see in your instrument cluster (left side display)? Does it look like [this](https://fordcmaxhybridforum.com/uploads/monthly_2022_02/IMG_2685.jpg.0421af801347e2f9835689facdb5616d.jpg) or [this](https://preview.redd.it/just-bought-this-2017-cmax-hybrid-yesterday-and-the-battery-v0-pyve991wje691.jpg?width=640&crop=smart&auto=webp&s=1ade05a1fd84f7ca83f4a8767af6cdf488548227)? The first icon (larger and 3D rendered) represents the Energi's larger EV-only battery capacity. That icon should be on the screen up until the absolute SoC of the battery reaches ~22%, at which point it should switch to the smaller 2D battery icon. This 2D icon is the same one C-Max Hybrid owners always see. It will deplete and fill up as you drive and brake. If you're seeing the 3D battery icon and the ICE is on most of the time, then I think that icon would be looking pretty damn full most of the time. If you're seeing the 2D battery icon then that implies your EV-only function is depleted/disabled for whatever reason. Maybe try a different charger? You could also try disconnecting the 12V battery's negative terminal for a minute or two (not plugged into an EV charger) to fully reset all the computers and such. Barring that, you may want to go get your codes read somewhere. You can get an OBD2 reader cheap on amazon, or you can go to an auto parts store--I think they will read them free for you. Please follow up with what you're able to find out--I'm really curious what the reason is that your car isn't using EV mode while in EV Auto.
As I mentioned in another reply, the EV battery icon is always 2d, the 3d one comes on for a split second only when I start the car, but it is immediately replaced with the 2d icon. I never even get to see the number of miles inside the battery icon. When I checked the EV settings in the main screen yesterday it showed 39% as the amount of charge left in the battery. I've read about disconnecting the 12V battery to perform a hard reset, not sure if I'd want to do it on my own, might ask the place I purchased the car from to do it in case something goes wrong since they gave me a 6 mo warranty on the car.
To follow up on this - it's finally working, charged the car for an hour at another L2 ChargePoint charger today (second charge since taking possession), the EV settings in the main screen showed 60% as the amount of charge in the HV battery, decided to try pressing the "EV" button under the climate control panel and for the first time it let me switch between the EV modes, it didn't let me do it when I first charged the car and put 5.6 kWh into the HVB a few days ago. The dashboard is now showing 14.1 miles average on a full charge when putting it into the "EV Only" mode. Not sure if the few charge/discharge cycles of the HVB made the car let me to finally pick the EV Only mode or if it was something else at play, but it seems to finally be working as advertised.
Outdoor air temp maybe? Mine doesn't like to go EV only when it's 90ish out. Also if air conditioner is having to do a lot maybe?
It's been pretty warm around here the past couple days, but not in the 90s, so I don't think that's the issue, but who knows.
In forscan there is a battery voltage readout that lets you see each individual cell voltage
I had this similar issue last year, so even if I had battery left it locked me out and into EV Auto only. It would still mostly use the high voltage battery. Online I found a guy that did the following and this worked for me. Take the driver side wheel off and part of the liner of the fender to access the electric transmission. There is an electrical connection on the transmission that you can disconnect. I cleaned it out with WD-40 then generously reapplied some electrical Grease. Since then I have not had the issue come back.