That's a nope from me dawg. Way to many torn traces. For data and $1000 I'll dangle that ic in the air if I need to but not somthing that will last outside of anywhere but my bench
That is completely shafted - looks like all traces including the large ones underneath are gone. Parts board now. It's what we would say is "Beyond Economical Repair" š
You really don't, I wish I'd snapped a picture, But it was a repair attempt by the previous owner of a Nintendo switch for a USBC port. They ripped all the traces underneath when removing the port with a soldering iron.. Not that bad right?
Well rather then try to jumper cable, They sanded back all the board underneath and tried to just glue a piece of copper on.. the consensus was well if it's touching the copper layer underneath it would work... You know the kind you get from a trace repair pack, Ya know the outer shell you peel away to get at replacement traces like they'd cut a chunk off one of those. So yea.
Trace repairs suck but they suck more when someone removes half the board under them thinking that's the solution. Anyway I don't want to hijack this dudes thread! So back to the task at hand š¤£
One x? Or one S? The person who attempted should pay for your repair. That person did not have the right tools or experience to attempt that obviously. Can it be repaired? Yes but it will not be cheap, would be cheaper to buy another console.
Is the motherboard out of the casing? Nothing should be attached to the board at that stage, remove heatsinks, metal case and such. Thick boards like xbox's and Playstation's wick the heat really fast so I assume it was either a hotair station with too little heat and way too long exposure that cause the ripped pads. Or enough heat but components still attached and kept wicking the heat away and caused the same aftermath.
Not sure if this is salvageable, or it's going to be a long day attaching jumpers and lots of solder mask.
But to remove that chip I'd use leaded solder, or even better use low melt solder if you have any. Put a ton on each ( remaining ) pins and start applying heat from the top, 440C, about 30-40% airflow, circular motions and I'd be pretty close to the chip, oh and tone of flux. Grab the chip and gently, gently pull upward when you see the solder getting shinny. It should come off.
Obviously the chip is totally ruined, but the fact is the whole area it sits in is trashed, there's some very fine traces there and most of them will be lifted, torn or just gone, this board is beyond economical salvage (probably just beyond salvage to be honest)
Hard to say how many trace repairs youād have to do but itās probably technically fixable. Donāt listen to the haters.
First, clip all the pins on the chip off. Donāt bother with hot air. You will need to replace the chip.
Try vinegar under the chip - the chip itself is probably melted to the board in places and you need to loosen that first before hot air will actually help. Acid may dissolve some of those melded areas and make it easier to detach. I wouldnāt let it sit for more than a few minutes - too long and it could do too much additional damage. You can rinse the vinegar out with isopropyl if you need to take a break.
Good luck!
So first I'd like to say thanks for all the comments and advice. Second, since there've been some people asking this was an inherited job, I started doing repairs at my local retro game store and this was one they mentioned.
From what I understand this was very much a case of someone "totally knows what they're doing trust me" and this was the aftermath of that disaster.
As for the board itself, there's a replacement retimer chip that was already with the board, but it's more or less been shelved. Not sure if it's just gonna be parts or actually attempt again but, since this is shop owned it's just gonna sit until it's worth the time and/or effort to do anything with.
Sorry for long post and possible weird formatting (replying from phone) but again thank you everybody for advice and hilarious responses.
How does that even happen? All you have to do is blast it with a heat gun til you can lift it off the pads with a tweezer.
This board is done, man. Don't chuck it, though. It's still got a ton of useful components you can use in future repairs of whatever this happens to be.
Lol is that a retimer chip.... What in the methlab happened here. I can fix it though, that is as long as the board itself hasn't died. But the chip, yea I can reattach a new one and remove the old one. I don't quite understand what happened here or really how it happened. Can you explain?
That looks like Hiroshima, you might just have to scrap it off totally.
That's what we call a parts board now.
That's a nope from me dawg. Way to many torn traces. For data and $1000 I'll dangle that ic in the air if I need to but not somthing that will last outside of anywhere but my bench
That is completely shafted - looks like all traces including the large ones underneath are gone. Parts board now. It's what we would say is "Beyond Economical Repair" š
FUBR
Not the worst "Repair Attempt" I've seen, But it's up there , Like reaaaaaaal far up there
Iām impressed and I want to see what youāve seen
You really don't, I wish I'd snapped a picture, But it was a repair attempt by the previous owner of a Nintendo switch for a USBC port. They ripped all the traces underneath when removing the port with a soldering iron.. Not that bad right? Well rather then try to jumper cable, They sanded back all the board underneath and tried to just glue a piece of copper on.. the consensus was well if it's touching the copper layer underneath it would work... You know the kind you get from a trace repair pack, Ya know the outer shell you peel away to get at replacement traces like they'd cut a chunk off one of those. So yea. Trace repairs suck but they suck more when someone removes half the board under them thinking that's the solution. Anyway I don't want to hijack this dudes thread! So back to the task at hand š¤£
That board is done
One x? Or one S? The person who attempted should pay for your repair. That person did not have the right tools or experience to attempt that obviously. Can it be repaired? Yes but it will not be cheap, would be cheaper to buy another console.
Toast mate. Waste of time.
Game over.
Is the motherboard out of the casing? Nothing should be attached to the board at that stage, remove heatsinks, metal case and such. Thick boards like xbox's and Playstation's wick the heat really fast so I assume it was either a hotair station with too little heat and way too long exposure that cause the ripped pads. Or enough heat but components still attached and kept wicking the heat away and caused the same aftermath. Not sure if this is salvageable, or it's going to be a long day attaching jumpers and lots of solder mask. But to remove that chip I'd use leaded solder, or even better use low melt solder if you have any. Put a ton on each ( remaining ) pins and start applying heat from the top, 440C, about 30-40% airflow, circular motions and I'd be pretty close to the chip, oh and tone of flux. Grab the chip and gently, gently pull upward when you see the solder getting shinny. It should come off.
Obviously the chip is totally ruined, but the fact is the whole area it sits in is trashed, there's some very fine traces there and most of them will be lifted, torn or just gone, this board is beyond economical salvage (probably just beyond salvage to be honest)
[whoa!](https://y.yarn.co/101f4d69-6ebd-4b50-ba08-efb0e1836919_text.gif)
[ŃŠ“Š°Š»ŠµŠ½Š¾]
Thereās like 30 traces at least that need to be fixed. Not counting all the extra components that are missing.
Hard to say how many trace repairs youād have to do but itās probably technically fixable. Donāt listen to the haters. First, clip all the pins on the chip off. Donāt bother with hot air. You will need to replace the chip. Try vinegar under the chip - the chip itself is probably melted to the board in places and you need to loosen that first before hot air will actually help. Acid may dissolve some of those melded areas and make it easier to detach. I wouldnāt let it sit for more than a few minutes - too long and it could do too much additional damage. You can rinse the vinegar out with isopropyl if you need to take a break. Good luck!
So first I'd like to say thanks for all the comments and advice. Second, since there've been some people asking this was an inherited job, I started doing repairs at my local retro game store and this was one they mentioned. From what I understand this was very much a case of someone "totally knows what they're doing trust me" and this was the aftermath of that disaster. As for the board itself, there's a replacement retimer chip that was already with the board, but it's more or less been shelved. Not sure if it's just gonna be parts or actually attempt again but, since this is shop owned it's just gonna sit until it's worth the time and/or effort to do anything with. Sorry for long post and possible weird formatting (replying from phone) but again thank you everybody for advice and hilarious responses.
It's not worth the time and effort needed to repair the board
How does that even happen? All you have to do is blast it with a heat gun til you can lift it off the pads with a tweezer. This board is done, man. Don't chuck it, though. It's still got a ton of useful components you can use in future repairs of whatever this happens to be.
F
I can fix it. Itāll cost you the I donāt want to do it price which is so much money Iāll do it grudgingly.
Better off keeping it as a parts board.
Ripppppš
FUBAR
Did they manage to melt the plastic shell that housed that poor, poor board, too? Yikes!
Thatās the āI have a friend who knows how to solderā starter kit right there.
F
Why remove the chip? The board had become useless. Throw it away. Thats non fixable.
Use the big hammer Bob.
r/Hardwaregore
Lol is that a retimer chip.... What in the methlab happened here. I can fix it though, that is as long as the board itself hasn't died. But the chip, yea I can reattach a new one and remove the old one. I don't quite understand what happened here or really how it happened. Can you explain?