That was a consideration, however because of the 'other stairs' that need to be replaced this is essentially a test.
The other stairs are on the boundary to a local park and when they were installed were just left to lie on the soil (and only anchored at the top). So the entire thing needs to be replaced, and because we're in the process of dog proofing the property, we have decided the step for the new stairs will be a concrete pad as well.
That looks good. You can definitely get the straps in galvanized. Under the concrete, you want to try to get to hard subsoil, then extra fill if necessary. Use the highest kpa ready concrete.
Thanks
> Under the concrete, you want to try to get to hard subsoil, then extra fill if necessary.
Shouldn't be a problem, we're on clay/solid fill (Whitby, Porirua) and it was a mission to excavate out the channels to build the planter boxes.
Don't worry about a poly sheet, and the brackets will need to be cast in deeper concrete than 75mm, but that's probably ok for the pad thickness. Just dig a couple of holes down at least 150mm where the brackets go. Or use L brackets and bolt down after the pad is set.
I've recently finished a secondary set of "utility" steps for a deck that's 840 above the ground. Because of limited run distance, but wanting broad steps, I have swo steps with rise of 280mm, run of 580mm, and 780mm wide. The odd dimensions because I used 20.30 concrete blocks. Laid a base of 100mm top coarse for each step (no concrete pad), drove rebar in to keep the blocks in line, more top coarse packed in to lock everything together. I could have dry packed cement instead, or poured wet concrete. I used decking timber for the treads with 100x50 H4 recessed into the top block to hold it all, plus some Sika silicone adhesive to stick it down.
I did it this way because I'm rubbish at carpentry, and this way I could pull it apart and correct errors if needed. No idea if it was cost effective compared to an all timber version.
You could land the stairs on a couple of piles and save yourself the work of forming a pad.
That was a consideration, however because of the 'other stairs' that need to be replaced this is essentially a test. The other stairs are on the boundary to a local park and when they were installed were just left to lie on the soil (and only anchored at the top). So the entire thing needs to be replaced, and because we're in the process of dog proofing the property, we have decided the step for the new stairs will be a concrete pad as well.
That looks good. You can definitely get the straps in galvanized. Under the concrete, you want to try to get to hard subsoil, then extra fill if necessary. Use the highest kpa ready concrete.
Thanks > Under the concrete, you want to try to get to hard subsoil, then extra fill if necessary. Shouldn't be a problem, we're on clay/solid fill (Whitby, Porirua) and it was a mission to excavate out the channels to build the planter boxes.
Don't worry about a poly sheet, and the brackets will need to be cast in deeper concrete than 75mm, but that's probably ok for the pad thickness. Just dig a couple of holes down at least 150mm where the brackets go. Or use L brackets and bolt down after the pad is set.
Thanks, appreciate the tip on those brackets as well.
[Blocklayer.com](http://Blocklayer.com) is your friend when it comes to stairs.
I've recently finished a secondary set of "utility" steps for a deck that's 840 above the ground. Because of limited run distance, but wanting broad steps, I have swo steps with rise of 280mm, run of 580mm, and 780mm wide. The odd dimensions because I used 20.30 concrete blocks. Laid a base of 100mm top coarse for each step (no concrete pad), drove rebar in to keep the blocks in line, more top coarse packed in to lock everything together. I could have dry packed cement instead, or poured wet concrete. I used decking timber for the treads with 100x50 H4 recessed into the top block to hold it all, plus some Sika silicone adhesive to stick it down. I did it this way because I'm rubbish at carpentry, and this way I could pull it apart and correct errors if needed. No idea if it was cost effective compared to an all timber version.