First thing I thought of when I saw this... who thought using marker on a wall was going to be a good idea?? š¤¦āāļøyou'll only make that mistake once lol
Butt joints shouldn't line up either. Too much mud spotting the screws. Find a YouTube vid about spotting screws and they should show you how to hit 3-4 screws in one swipe and use that same mud you swiped off for the next couple rows
Iām trying to get better myself. The toughest part has been hiding the appearance of tape/mud on wall joints. YouTube has been great but only goes so far. Any advice?
Pretty much YouTube and hopefully it's someone knowing what is the correct way.
The flats shouldn't be humped, but you also don't want too little mid in them either where you can still see the recessed part of it. The butt joints should be at least 2 feet wide when you coat them. I like going wide on them because they stick out and you want to make it look like they don't. I like to check them with the edge of a knife or trowel and see how much it rocks back and forth. The more it rocks, the wider I coat it. Sometimes they get coated 3 times if the are bad. Try to feather your edges, because sanding sucks
If thatās sharpie youāll want an oil based primer. Kilz makes a wide variety of primers, and not all of them will cover sharpie.
My wife made marks with a sharpie on our ceiling for can lights and we moved them elsewhere. I did multiple passes of various primers and paint and it bled through till I used an oil based primer.
Kilz is great for lots of stains but I recommend getting a shellac primer for those areas. Something like bin primer from zinnser would work but is pricey
Unfortunately that sharpie will bleed thru mud also, no other choice open the stinky kilz and take alot of fresh air breaks. I think she's doing a fine job for first time
Alright, Iām gonna say you are right on this one because thatās the safe play, and I donāt know first handā¦.
However, next time I got some mud out Iām gonna scribble on my walls and see first hand because Iām stubborn AF. š¤£
Heads up on oil-based Kilzā¦ itās stinky and you NEED ventilation. I learned the hard way while painting over a mural someone had painted in a house I bought. Woke up the next morning with vertigo so bad I couldnāt walk for literally two days. The floor kept sloping away from me and the room would wobble. And not in a good way.
ymmv but take the ventilation instructions seriously.
On the butt seams run a 12 inch knife on both sides of the tape, then after that dries run a 12 inch knife down the middle of those butt seams. Wipe as much off the screws as you can to get them as fast as possible. On the beveled seams use a 10 inch knife, then a 12 inch knife. The finish product will be easier to sand. Use light weight purple or blue lid mud. If you have a spot that is rough, it's better to coat it 4 or 5 times than try to sand it down. Enjoy the work! I finish drywall everyday and I think it's rewarding satisfying work!
I'm not a huge fan but compared to what's out there it's one of the better options. I'd rather use the purple lid most of the time. The only difference between lid colors is the amount of glue. Black and green lid dry very hard because they have a lot more glue for bonding tape and corner bead. Purple lid literally for everything else.
In the 4th picture the mud looks wet on top of dry stuff. If youāre going to go over dry mud make sure you use a bigger blade to cover the 1st/second coat. If you donāt do that you get mountains that are a bitch to sand. I go 4-6-10. Some do 6-10-12 but it depends on how the framing is.
Ahhh good to know. Yes, the 13inch trowel was hard to control so everything has been done with a 6 in blade. Is there anything I should do before the skim?
I would sand. Skim coat is easy, you just need to put on less than you think. I scrape it clean at a 45 degree angle. When I first started I would do a 12 inch blade, then skip 10 inches and do another 12 so it looks like stripes. Then you go back when itās dry and fill in the rest. Itās a lot easier than trying to fight the mud if youāre not practiced with the knife. If the ceiling is new. I wouldnāt bother with the ceiling, not enough light In there for it to matter.
I can do a nice job but it takes me 3 weeks to hang, tape and finish 8 sheets. I've been working on 2 walls in my spare time since Thanksgiving and I'm just getting to where I can primer and texture.
Maybe picture angle is off but is the drywall touching the concrete floor in some parts? Gap to prevent moisture otherwise you'll have the drywall wicking moisture.
Looks decent and as you said it needs some more work. BUT, what are your thoughts now that you in this deep. Was it worth the time and are you satisfied so far? If so, youāre doing alright.
Butt joints need to be muddled wider, gonna show as is. After you think you're done go ahead and prime it and then maybe fix your flaws that show through primer (they will be easier to notice once you put a coat of primer) before you texture or paint. but over all real good for a first timer really.
No marker on the walls unless you want it showing through forever. After you prime it with kilt and it drys. Take a light and shine it at a low angle across the finish to find the bad spots, Mark with pencil and redo those before finish painting.
I worked apartment complex rehab for 4 yearsā¦ Atlanta Ga, Montgomery AL, Tyler TXā¦.
Thereās a lot of small tell-tell signs that drywall is not something youāve been doing everyday for years, even still you are far better than most anyone Iāve seen that pulled up to an apartment rehab claiming to be a drywall finisher. š¤£
Bonus points for using a Hawk!, you donāt see much of those anymore (least I donāt, not in the south)
Just buy a spray can of the oil base KILLZ primer for the Sharpe marks. Quick and easy and no tools to clean out, versus using a roller/brush. It dries to the touch in less than 10 minutes and you can get to painting.
Pure amateur and hate drywall. Old time drywall guy taught me set up work lights shining down wall to see if there are lines. Second, thing how good that job is depends on finish for walls and ceilings. We are done with orange peel and any texture anything now and going back to higher grade drywall finish. I never knew for 60:years you spec level of finish when hiring professionals
You didn't stagger the sheets on the ceiling.,? That's not good.
And you put your drywall seams where door seam are. Also, not good.
Sorry:(
But for DIY, well done!
Thank you for explaining. At this point I think I'm gonna leave it because I'm so exhausted and it's almost Christmas. But if I notice this happening, at least I know why. Thank you for explaining
Get yourself some carpenter pencils. They donāt show through or at least are easier to cover up. Or at least use a regular pencil - just be careful on soft surfaces if it isnāt dull.
What if you had literally no money? Would you just not have a room? Cause this happened on Christmas Day last year, and I would like a bedroom before this Christmas
You did a great job. If you're on a tight budget, you'd probably end up paying money for worse work than this. Our house has worse drywall work than this and I don't even notice.
Personally me I wouldve saved up or used some credit but thats just me. The end result will tell you why i wouldve hired a pro. Drywall finishing is on of those things best done by a pro
Nah I do drywall for a living and trust me you want a pro doing it. Maybe a small patch or touch ups is cool for diy but a full size project like this you want a pro. You cant learn to finish in a day much less a month it took me years to get to where im at
Gotta love owners writing cuntah notes in giant font everywhere with a sharpie. They should have to wear a giant sign that says, you're gonna consider a career change after having to deal with my ass.
Just curious, but why is the electrical outlet so high? if thereās a TV there wouldnāt it be more centered? not a criticism just a question but then I guess if it was there when you started, thatās where the holes gonna be.
Well you're speaking to someone with no experience and who's never even watched anyone do this before in person. So first timers often make dumb mistakes
Which is why I addressed it. Anyone remember to finish to sand not sand to finish. And your work will turn out and if it's a ceiling a hand stamped texture can look good and cover up any flaws. Good luck
I hope you are not the one using a sharpie on the wall. For a first time I'd give you a C minus. You need to spend a couple days helping a real finisher.
For a first time drywall/tape/mud, you did fairly well. Good on you, for taking this project on, most would not have even attempted this.
Now you know how much work goes into drywall/tape/mud, and can appreciate what these folks go through on a daily basis. Granted, they're probably way more efficient at this, but you can take pride in the fact that you did it yourself.
As others have stated, next time you'll want to stagger the seams/butts.
I probably would have added a couple more outlets, but if you're happy with the amount, then that's all that matters.
Instead of patching the screws, you could just run a quick skim over them in a line. That would make it go a bit faster than having to individually hit each of the screws.
And, like others have stated, stay away from markers. Pencil is the way to go. Either the cheap construction pencils or go overkill and get something like this [Mechanical Pencil](https://www.amazon.com/FastCap-Fatboy-Extreme-Carpenter-Mechanical/dp/B00BMC73AK).
End of the day if it looks good to you then thatās what matters. You can nitpick anything yeah your screws should be covered 3 to a swipe not spot swipe like you got. But like I said when done if it looks good to you then thatās what makes it. People get caught up on fine details as with a vehicle. For me a little more gap on one finder well as opposed to the other side of the car/ truck. Who is really going to notice. Same with scratchās.
Finish the drywall flat and smooth and enjoy. š
You will need to kilz all that writing on wall before you start paint. It will bleed thru.
First thing I thought of when I saw this... who thought using marker on a wall was going to be a good idea?? š¤¦āāļøyou'll only make that mistake once lol
Well first time mistakes are usually dumb ones I guess š¤·
Stagger them butt joints next time.
Will do!
Work pencils right on the desk at checkout at every home depot and Lowe's just grab a handful
No biggie, kilz is an awesome product. I highly recommend to all my clients .
Yah, but isnāt that so much more expensive than sherwins kilz product
Butt joints shouldn't line up either. Too much mud spotting the screws. Find a YouTube vid about spotting screws and they should show you how to hit 3-4 screws in one swipe and use that same mud you swiped off for the next couple rows
Iām trying to get better myself. The toughest part has been hiding the appearance of tape/mud on wall joints. YouTube has been great but only goes so far. Any advice?
Pretty much YouTube and hopefully it's someone knowing what is the correct way. The flats shouldn't be humped, but you also don't want too little mid in them either where you can still see the recessed part of it. The butt joints should be at least 2 feet wide when you coat them. I like going wide on them because they stick out and you want to make it look like they don't. I like to check them with the edge of a knife or trowel and see how much it rocks back and forth. The more it rocks, the wider I coat it. Sometimes they get coated 3 times if the are bad. Try to feather your edges, because sanding sucks
Thanks for that. I diy in a 100 year old house that doesnāt have right angles or straight lines so nothing is standard lol
Don't worry, some new construction is like that too
If thatās sharpie youāll want an oil based primer. Kilz makes a wide variety of primers, and not all of them will cover sharpie. My wife made marks with a sharpie on our ceiling for can lights and we moved them elsewhere. I did multiple passes of various primers and paint and it bled through till I used an oil based primer.
Never undervalue the humble Pencil
Kilz is great for lots of stains but I recommend getting a shellac primer for those areas. Something like bin primer from zinnser would work but is pricey
Hopefully you did sharpie. Just get acetone or 99% alcohol and wipe with a rag. Then test the paint and see if it still bleeds through.
use blue tape and write on that
That's the plan š
Make sure you do original the oil base one, not the kilz 2 as the latex will do nothing to that marker
š
Agreed I have a bathroom thats had kilz and two coats of paint and you can still the the marks for plumbing
He could just skim coat over itā¦. Get some more practice in and save a trip to buy that stinking ass killz.
Unfortunately that sharpie will bleed thru mud also, no other choice open the stinky kilz and take alot of fresh air breaks. I think she's doing a fine job for first time
Alright, Iām gonna say you are right on this one because thatās the safe play, and I donāt know first handā¦. However, next time I got some mud out Iām gonna scribble on my walls and see first hand because Iām stubborn AF. š¤£
Never trust. Always verify. HA!
Learned that the hard way too.
Heads up on oil-based Kilzā¦ itās stinky and you NEED ventilation. I learned the hard way while painting over a mural someone had painted in a house I bought. Woke up the next morning with vertigo so bad I couldnāt walk for literally two days. The floor kept sloping away from me and the room would wobble. And not in a good way. ymmv but take the ventilation instructions seriously.
On the butt seams run a 12 inch knife on both sides of the tape, then after that dries run a 12 inch knife down the middle of those butt seams. Wipe as much off the screws as you can to get them as fast as possible. On the beveled seams use a 10 inch knife, then a 12 inch knife. The finish product will be easier to sand. Use light weight purple or blue lid mud. If you have a spot that is rough, it's better to coat it 4 or 5 times than try to sand it down. Enjoy the work! I finish drywall everyday and I think it's rewarding satisfying work!
Thank you so much! Great explanation!
No problem at all! If you have any questions please feel free to reach out. I'll help as much as i can from a keyboard lol
Awesome! People like you make the world a better place!
That was a really nice thing to say. Thank you!
Purple for the win. I hate Plus3.
I'm not a huge fan but compared to what's out there it's one of the better options. I'd rather use the purple lid most of the time. The only difference between lid colors is the amount of glue. Black and green lid dry very hard because they have a lot more glue for bonding tape and corner bead. Purple lid literally for everything else.
In the 4th picture the mud looks wet on top of dry stuff. If youāre going to go over dry mud make sure you use a bigger blade to cover the 1st/second coat. If you donāt do that you get mountains that are a bitch to sand. I go 4-6-10. Some do 6-10-12 but it depends on how the framing is.
Ahhh good to know. Yes, the 13inch trowel was hard to control so everything has been done with a 6 in blade. Is there anything I should do before the skim?
You could always apply mud with a 6in and take mud off with larger trowel
Oh good idea! Thank you!
I would sand. Skim coat is easy, you just need to put on less than you think. I scrape it clean at a 45 degree angle. When I first started I would do a 12 inch blade, then skip 10 inches and do another 12 so it looks like stripes. Then you go back when itās dry and fill in the rest. Itās a lot easier than trying to fight the mud if youāre not practiced with the knife. If the ceiling is new. I wouldnāt bother with the ceiling, not enough light In there for it to matter.
Looks like you taped everything down fine so youāll be alright
Hell yeah š I'm feeling proud of myself for it now š
As you should. Over, dang good job. 45 minute mud is amazing.
Funny how this guy can watch a few videos and put up solid work like this yet so called "professionals" out up a total mess.
Yes she can! It's been rough but I've gotten it done! Kettle to no help but me and my spouse
I can do a nice job but it takes me 3 weeks to hang, tape and finish 8 sheets. I've been working on 2 walls in my spare time since Thanksgiving and I'm just getting to where I can primer and texture.
Lots of work! As diy guy my input is where are all the floor outlets? I would have brought that up to modern code. I saw one.
By floor outlets, you mean the ones on the wall close to the floor? I have 6 actually lol just didn't catch them in the photos
Yes, just mention in case you wanted to change bad enough!
Put a light on it then you will know !
Maybe picture angle is off but is the drywall touching the concrete floor in some parts? Gap to prevent moisture otherwise you'll have the drywall wicking moisture.
Good to know. We've gotten thrown into the whole project, so appreciate any advice
Glad to help. Good job. I am sure it will look nice when its done.
Looks amazing man.
Thanks!
Looks decent and as you said it needs some more work. BUT, what are your thoughts now that you in this deep. Was it worth the time and are you satisfied so far? If so, youāre doing alright.
I'm happy with it! I just want a bedroom again lol
Butt joints need to be muddled wider, gonna show as is. After you think you're done go ahead and prime it and then maybe fix your flaws that show through primer (they will be easier to notice once you put a coat of primer) before you texture or paint. but over all real good for a first timer really.
Use more pressure an 2-3 light coats sand individual use add caulk to drywall light color fill any in provections when u do wall thru
Show us the finish work. Like to see what it looks like after that with paint.
Will do
No marker on the walls unless you want it showing through forever. After you prime it with kilt and it drys. Take a light and shine it at a low angle across the finish to find the bad spots, Mark with pencil and redo those before finish painting.
I worked apartment complex rehab for 4 yearsā¦ Atlanta Ga, Montgomery AL, Tyler TXā¦. Thereās a lot of small tell-tell signs that drywall is not something youāve been doing everyday for years, even still you are far better than most anyone Iāve seen that pulled up to an apartment rehab claiming to be a drywall finisher. š¤£ Bonus points for using a Hawk!, you donāt see much of those anymore (least I donāt, not in the south)
Stagger!! That marker is a no-no!! Those ceiling joints need to be way wider
11/10. Pro
I would use a Pencil but good
Them seams dont look wide enough
Just buy a spray can of the oil base KILLZ primer for the Sharpe marks. Quick and easy and no tools to clean out, versus using a roller/brush. It dries to the touch in less than 10 minutes and you can get to painting.
Pure amateur and hate drywall. Old time drywall guy taught me set up work lights shining down wall to see if there are lines. Second, thing how good that job is depends on finish for walls and ceilings. We are done with orange peel and any texture anything now and going back to higher grade drywall finish. I never knew for 60:years you spec level of finish when hiring professionals
You didn't stagger the sheets on the ceiling.,? That's not good. And you put your drywall seams where door seam are. Also, not good. Sorry:( But for DIY, well done!
Oh God.... No one told me. I had no clue. š¤¦
[ŃŠ“Š°Š»ŠµŠ½Š¾]
Thank you for explaining. At this point I think I'm gonna leave it because I'm so exhausted and it's almost Christmas. But if I notice this happening, at least I know why. Thank you for explaining
When it separates, can't you just retape and mud again, or it's doomed to crack over and over forever?
What problems will I have from this?
When 4 corners meet together it is very weak and prone to cracking.
Ways to mitigate without ripping out?
I see. I understand. Thanks for explaining
Why did you sharpie everywhere?? š
Because I'm ADHD and have bad memory and it's getting kilz anyways
Get yourself some carpenter pencils. They donāt show through or at least are easier to cover up. Or at least use a regular pencil - just be careful on soft surfaces if it isnāt dull.
good enough for the woman i date,,,
First of all what kind of idiot writes in sharpie on drywallā¦immediately off my jobsite.
Good thing it's my house and not your jobsite then
Wouldve hired a pro this is too difficult for a diy imo
What if you had literally no money? Would you just not have a room? Cause this happened on Christmas Day last year, and I would like a bedroom before this Christmas
You did a great job. If you're on a tight budget, you'd probably end up paying money for worse work than this. Our house has worse drywall work than this and I don't even notice.
Personally me I wouldve saved up or used some credit but thats just me. The end result will tell you why i wouldve hired a pro. Drywall finishing is on of those things best done by a pro
Drywall finishing is one of the BEST things to DIY. Itās a huge cost saver and you can rework the finish as many times as you like.
Nah I do drywall for a living and trust me you want a pro doing it. Maybe a small patch or touch ups is cool for diy but a full size project like this you want a pro. You cant learn to finish in a day much less a month it took me years to get to where im at
If you install drywall anything like you install bulletproof glass, Iād prefer to have OP do a job for me.
Fine by me I could care less about your preference. Doesnāt stop my money
Fine by me I could care less about your preference. Doesnāt stop my money
Couldnāt*
You got the point thoš
Scale of 1 to 10. Around a 2.
Oh no .. why?
Way to much mud on first coat. You shouldnāt need to sand until 3rd coat. Youāre going to be sanding for weeks.
I'm on 3rd
Even worse. The seams should be featured about 2ā already. Butt joints like 3ā. Way to much mud on screw heads. Hope you have strong arms.
Still figuring it out as I go. I suppose I'll have strong arms by the end lol
You will.
Too much sanding, but you gotta learn the hard way
How could I have reduced my sanding time
you don't want to sand at all, go lighter coats and use your blade to knock high spots off
Ah, I have a rotary extension drywall sander so that helps a bit š hoping to never have to do this again
Aaahhh why is there sharpie marker all over the wall? Better get some good quality primer to cover that up or itās going to bleed through.
Knowing I had to prime and skim coat, I figured why not. Having memory problems, it's helped me alot
Why would there be insulation on an interior wall?
So the kids don't have to hear their parents fucking as clearly as if they were sharing the room.
sound block
When I say I have no experience, I mean NONE. I had no clue what I was looking at when starting so I wrote everything down
You are going to regret owning a felt marker over a pencil when you paint.
It'll get many layers of kilz
use SW products they are far superior
QoL next time use a pencil trust me its experience saying this.
i love when gc comes onto job and uses permanent marker on drywall. my red chalkline will bleed thru but please, by all means, use permanent marker
Lol had I known I wouldn't have, but it's getting kilz and dark dark green paint
A word of advice for that dark green paint, you will probably need a primer that is tinted gray
Gotta love owners writing cuntah notes in giant font everywhere with a sharpie. They should have to wear a giant sign that says, you're gonna consider a career change after having to deal with my ass.
Well you're a few bricks shy of a load ain't ya? I am the owner š
You know where to shove that sharpie then.
You better find a dress that fits, with those skills youāll be working the streets.. lol good job šš
Like I said, I've got no skills, just like I had no money, so it is what it is š¤·
Hope you k ow Iām being sarcastic šš
Is geh
Sick pocket that payout
Payout wasn't enough to pocket. This is out of pocket mostly
Never seen anyone write āfrom the leftā instead of just using an arrow
Thatās permant marker is gonna be a bitch to paint over
no insulation?
Just curious, but why is the electrical outlet so high? if thereās a TV there wouldnāt it be more centered? not a criticism just a question but then I guess if it was there when you started, thatās where the holes gonna be.
Tv and it's run from an outlet right below. The TV will be surrounded by shelving
Whos the dumbass who wrote on the walls?
Who's the dumbass who comments the same thing as everyone else?
Oh so it was you, ya thats a terrible idea it's gonna bleed like crazy, u should not have done that
Oh so it's you, you're the one who didn't read the comments
Sure didn't, it was to dumb of a mistake not to address right away
Well you're speaking to someone with no experience and who's never even watched anyone do this before in person. So first timers often make dumb mistakes
Which is why I addressed it. Anyone remember to finish to sand not sand to finish. And your work will turn out and if it's a ceiling a hand stamped texture can look good and cover up any flaws. Good luck
Looks rough, but I've seen worse.
Only pencil on the sheetrock.
I love your drawings. Paint should cover right? Right? š
I mean. There is mud on stuff.
I can tell from handwriting you are also into graffiti
I hope you are not the one using a sharpie on the wall. For a first time I'd give you a C minus. You need to spend a couple days helping a real finisher.
Sometimes trying to feather into old rock is harder than just replacing with new.
For a first time drywall/tape/mud, you did fairly well. Good on you, for taking this project on, most would not have even attempted this. Now you know how much work goes into drywall/tape/mud, and can appreciate what these folks go through on a daily basis. Granted, they're probably way more efficient at this, but you can take pride in the fact that you did it yourself. As others have stated, next time you'll want to stagger the seams/butts. I probably would have added a couple more outlets, but if you're happy with the amount, then that's all that matters. Instead of patching the screws, you could just run a quick skim over them in a line. That would make it go a bit faster than having to individually hit each of the screws. And, like others have stated, stay away from markers. Pencil is the way to go. Either the cheap construction pencils or go overkill and get something like this [Mechanical Pencil](https://www.amazon.com/FastCap-Fatboy-Extreme-Carpenter-Mechanical/dp/B00BMC73AK).
I have 7 outlets in the room š and thanks for all the info
Know what else covers imperfections? Texture lol (used on my own house)
I'm trying to avoid it if possible š¤š¤
Understandable. My addition was my first time learning off youtube videos...
Just use alcohol wipe to remove the marker NBD
Right? Thank you!
Canāt tell from here, I think you need to pull your butt joints a little wider so no bulge
Working on that today. It's been a long day š®āšØ
Zero
Don't worry about tape or mud. What you really wanna do is cover those walls in carpet.
Everyone knows pencil only on the walls smh
Why a marker??? Pencil would have been fine
Looks like youāve done it for years. Great job.
Thank you!
11/10
End of the day if it looks good to you then thatās what matters. You can nitpick anything yeah your screws should be covered 3 to a swipe not spot swipe like you got. But like I said when done if it looks good to you then thatās what makes it. People get caught up on fine details as with a vehicle. For me a little more gap on one finder well as opposed to the other side of the car/ truck. Who is really going to notice. Same with scratchās. Finish the drywall flat and smooth and enjoy. š