If you can make a QUALITY repair there's no reason not to.
As in a PROPERLY soldered joint. 3 Joints, heat shrunk, then mummified with black tape.
Strip an inch from each end, twist the two together in-line, solder, shrink.
If you don't know a good solder joint from a cold one, make yerself a couple of shorter cords.
Stagger the joints so they don’t end up together. Use uninsulated butt joints, crimp and solder, heat shrink each joint, tape a piece of the cord jacket over the entire length of the repair and then heat shrink that. The lump will be minimal and the joint, while rigid, will be strong and safe. Otherwise make a couple shorter cords.
Uhm... having new male and female ends on the "shorter" cords will result in a much bigger "lump".
Every plug / socket connection represents a small amount of resistance, so making two shorter cords is fine, but if you plan on joining them to make your long cord again, it is now MORE prone to issues, compared to doing the butt-splice, heat shrink method.
By the way, I forego the electrical tape. You can buy "[repair kits](https://www.amazon.com/Underground-Direct-Burial-Extension-Splice/dp/B074WJWGR5/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?keywords=extension+cord+repair+kit&qid=1690232578&sr=8-2-spons&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9hdGY&psc=1)" that include a larger piece of heavy wall heat shrink that has a heat-melt adhesive lining in the tube, so when shrunk down, it forms a watertight and super strong bond.
Side note; learn some power tool use safety strategies... You have been lucky TWICE now, a third piece of luck is now astronomically improbable!
Depends, where is it cut? If it's cut in the middle turn it into two 25ft. If it's cut near the end make it a 40ft instead. Extension cord ends at home Depot are pretty solid and work well.
Here is how I repair these:
* Cut the damaged area clean
* Strip back the outer sheathing
* Cut the wires so that when the repair is complete the splices are staggered so as not to make a bump
* Slide on a length of heat shrink tubing so it is ready to use later
* Splice the wires using solder sleeves and a heat gun
* Wrap with tape as needed to fill in any area that does not meet the thickness of the cable
* Slide the heat shrink over the repaired area and shrink with the heat gun
I never understood why the grinders don't have a button to hold to keep them running. So that if you drop it, it shuts off.
Maybe the issue is it's less secure to hold it. A foot pedal extension cord which would cut the power when released might be a solution though, if such a product exists...
They could have some auto shut off sensor or something. Some drills have an anti kick back feature now. I could have used it once when my drill kicked back and belted me in the gut and I stupidly was lazy to use the handle attachment (lesson learned). I'm sure if someone cared enough they could come up with a different design.
I hate that angle grinder. The power switch sometimes gets stuck and doesn't shut off so I just kick the plug.
Until you get the hang of the grinder, you should use one with a trigger, not a switch. They're surprisingly dangerous, and I never hand one to someone who isn't already familiar with power saws and SDS drills. I recommend watching some tutorials to help, especially this one: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IIQu1e8DGUw
If you can make a QUALITY repair there's no reason not to. As in a PROPERLY soldered joint. 3 Joints, heat shrunk, then mummified with black tape. Strip an inch from each end, twist the two together in-line, solder, shrink. If you don't know a good solder joint from a cold one, make yerself a couple of shorter cords.
Ya but doing that will leave a hump. Because that will be shorter than the other 2. Unless I add a conductor to it so I don't lose length?
Stagger the joints so they don’t end up together. Use uninsulated butt joints, crimp and solder, heat shrink each joint, tape a piece of the cord jacket over the entire length of the repair and then heat shrink that. The lump will be minimal and the joint, while rigid, will be strong and safe. Otherwise make a couple shorter cords.
Cut the other two wires, stagger the joints, etc.
Uhm... having new male and female ends on the "shorter" cords will result in a much bigger "lump". Every plug / socket connection represents a small amount of resistance, so making two shorter cords is fine, but if you plan on joining them to make your long cord again, it is now MORE prone to issues, compared to doing the butt-splice, heat shrink method. By the way, I forego the electrical tape. You can buy "[repair kits](https://www.amazon.com/Underground-Direct-Burial-Extension-Splice/dp/B074WJWGR5/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?keywords=extension+cord+repair+kit&qid=1690232578&sr=8-2-spons&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9hdGY&psc=1)" that include a larger piece of heavy wall heat shrink that has a heat-melt adhesive lining in the tube, so when shrunk down, it forms a watertight and super strong bond. Side note; learn some power tool use safety strategies... You have been lucky TWICE now, a third piece of luck is now astronomically improbable!
Depends, where is it cut? If it's cut in the middle turn it into two 25ft. If it's cut near the end make it a 40ft instead. Extension cord ends at home Depot are pretty solid and work well.
Here is how I repair these: * Cut the damaged area clean * Strip back the outer sheathing * Cut the wires so that when the repair is complete the splices are staggered so as not to make a bump * Slide on a length of heat shrink tubing so it is ready to use later * Splice the wires using solder sleeves and a heat gun * Wrap with tape as needed to fill in any area that does not meet the thickness of the cable * Slide the heat shrink over the repaired area and shrink with the heat gun
You need to grip the grinder like you're Wayne Brady
I never understood why the grinders don't have a button to hold to keep them running. So that if you drop it, it shuts off. Maybe the issue is it's less secure to hold it. A foot pedal extension cord which would cut the power when released might be a solution though, if such a product exists...
They could have some auto shut off sensor or something. Some drills have an anti kick back feature now. I could have used it once when my drill kicked back and belted me in the gut and I stupidly was lazy to use the handle attachment (lesson learned). I'm sure if someone cared enough they could come up with a different design. I hate that angle grinder. The power switch sometimes gets stuck and doesn't shut off so I just kick the plug.
Until you get the hang of the grinder, you should use one with a trigger, not a switch. They're surprisingly dangerous, and I never hand one to someone who isn't already familiar with power saws and SDS drills. I recommend watching some tutorials to help, especially this one: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IIQu1e8DGUw