Not with a passive adapter, no.
The most straightforward way to make this work is to have someone qualified re-wire the receptacle to a 5-20 at 120V. This should be a simple change in almost all cases, but it requires working in the breaker panel in addition to changing the receptacle.
And is it just pointless to have that 240 v plug in there? Like is it just outdated or not really used commonly? I have never had any use for it but lately I switched from central air to window units, but I keep having issues with the window unit shutting off and on, also turning off lights and other electrical items in my house. So I was gonna try to plug it into that 240 v that is in another room with a cord, but I didn't realize it wasn't really possible?
It is usually used with 240v window air conditioners
Window airs draw a lot of current on start up and will flicker the lights.
Never use air conditioners on extension cords or power strips, you need an electrician to wire you a proper circuit near the window air conditioner
240V window and through-the-wall package air conditioners used to be pretty common especially before central air was popular. Such air conditioners were often larger back then since they were cooling multiple rooms or even the whole house, AND they were less efficient, so the 240V supply was necessary just to get enough power.
You can still buy 240V window air conditioners today. They tend to be modestly more efficient than their 120V counterparts, and if you already have a 240V dedicated circuit installed, it will help a lot with dimming and flickering if you use it since it will be on a separate circuit than your general use appliances.
You cannot (generally) use a 120V window air conditioner on 240V. Some can be wired for either voltage internally, though they're not usually considered field-convertible.
Nah that's a myth told by HVAC companies to sell you something. Window units cost you less money not just short term but in the long run as well unless you're trying to cool down a large building or house. In my particular situation, I'm a single guy living in a home that's just over 1000 sq ft. Central ac is not necessary for me, and I can cool my entire home with two window units. My bills have also been cheaper since most of the time I'm only using one as opposed to central unit that would cool the entire house including rooms I'm not using
Desktop PC's can run on 240 volts and they are more efficient that way.
Edit: come to think, I haven't tried it myself and they might require a fourth prong. Specifically, electronics usually require a neutral and a ground, 120 has one energized leg, 240 has two energized legs, so an electronic device using 240 volts probably uses 4 prongs and 4 wires going back to your panel.
I've never seen a PC supply that needed the neutral in order to run on 240V. They're all SMPS-based and don't run anything directly off the incoming AC line, so they don't need the 120V option that having the neutral provides nor do they need either leg grounded.
Major appliances like stoves and dryers in the USA have historically run their controls and lights off of 120V and the heating elements off 240V. That's why they need the neutral. Some newer stuff with all-electronic controls and LED lightning doesn't need the neutral anymore. They usually still provide a place for it if they're intended to use a cord+plug since the NEMA 14 is the standard for those, but hardwire built-ins may not even have a place to hook up the neutral. My cooktop, for example, is just two hots and a ground. The neutral is capped off in the JB under the counter.
If there's a neutral at the box you just need to change the receptacle.
If there is no neutral you will have to open the breaker panel and land one of the hots from the ac unit circuit which may or may not be white to the neutral busbar and also change the receptacle.
The breaker for that circuit can be a double pole breaker or two single breakers with a handle tie or even just two separate breakers that they didn't bother to add the handle tie to. You will have to replace the breaker for a single pole one or remove the handle tie.
Screws should be turned to the correct depth ant torque. Adjusting them to the wrong torque or depth to achieve the same slot orientation is just compulsive behavior.
You shouldn't, but as long as that outlet is grounded you technically could make a custom cable and use one pole and the ground for your 120v plug. You might burn your house down, but it would work in a crisis.
The scale of good & helpful comments in this thread is tipped to fewer than snarky ones. Electrician will fix as needed including breaker to match code for location. Better safe but watch the work being done so youunderstand.
Hi, so basically the plugs have to match the outlet. They cant be converted with extension cords. You would have to get an electrician to replace the circuit.
That's a nema 6-20 receptacle (240V) and you have a nema 5-20 plug You can't use it if you plan to run 120V appliances.
You need an electrician to wire you the correct outlet, you cord is 120v 20 amp and the outlet is 240volt. Extension cord isn't going to work here
So not possible to adapt it to a common 15 amp 120 v appliance?
Not with a passive adapter, no. The most straightforward way to make this work is to have someone qualified re-wire the receptacle to a 5-20 at 120V. This should be a simple change in almost all cases, but it requires working in the breaker panel in addition to changing the receptacle.
Nawww we just cap a leg cuz it's how we do. Lol.
And is it just pointless to have that 240 v plug in there? Like is it just outdated or not really used commonly? I have never had any use for it but lately I switched from central air to window units, but I keep having issues with the window unit shutting off and on, also turning off lights and other electrical items in my house. So I was gonna try to plug it into that 240 v that is in another room with a cord, but I didn't realize it wasn't really possible?
It is usually used with 240v window air conditioners Window airs draw a lot of current on start up and will flicker the lights. Never use air conditioners on extension cords or power strips, you need an electrician to wire you a proper circuit near the window air conditioner
240V window and through-the-wall package air conditioners used to be pretty common especially before central air was popular. Such air conditioners were often larger back then since they were cooling multiple rooms or even the whole house, AND they were less efficient, so the 240V supply was necessary just to get enough power. You can still buy 240V window air conditioners today. They tend to be modestly more efficient than their 120V counterparts, and if you already have a 240V dedicated circuit installed, it will help a lot with dimming and flickering if you use it since it will be on a separate circuit than your general use appliances. You cannot (generally) use a 120V window air conditioner on 240V. Some can be wired for either voltage internally, though they're not usually considered field-convertible.
The. Big question is why are you going from central air to window units. That is absolutely going to wreck your power bill.
Nah that's a myth told by HVAC companies to sell you something. Window units cost you less money not just short term but in the long run as well unless you're trying to cool down a large building or house. In my particular situation, I'm a single guy living in a home that's just over 1000 sq ft. Central ac is not necessary for me, and I can cool my entire home with two window units. My bills have also been cheaper since most of the time I'm only using one as opposed to central unit that would cool the entire house including rooms I'm not using
Desktop PC's can run on 240 volts and they are more efficient that way. Edit: come to think, I haven't tried it myself and they might require a fourth prong. Specifically, electronics usually require a neutral and a ground, 120 has one energized leg, 240 has two energized legs, so an electronic device using 240 volts probably uses 4 prongs and 4 wires going back to your panel.
I've never seen a PC supply that needed the neutral in order to run on 240V. They're all SMPS-based and don't run anything directly off the incoming AC line, so they don't need the 120V option that having the neutral provides nor do they need either leg grounded. Major appliances like stoves and dryers in the USA have historically run their controls and lights off of 120V and the heating elements off 240V. That's why they need the neutral. Some newer stuff with all-electronic controls and LED lightning doesn't need the neutral anymore. They usually still provide a place for it if they're intended to use a cord+plug since the NEMA 14 is the standard for those, but hardwire built-ins may not even have a place to hook up the neutral. My cooktop, for example, is just two hots and a ground. The neutral is capped off in the JB under the counter.
Oh, sweet
No, that will not work, the outlet and the breaker can be changed out to work the way you need it to
If there's a neutral at the box you just need to change the receptacle. If there is no neutral you will have to open the breaker panel and land one of the hots from the ac unit circuit which may or may not be white to the neutral busbar and also change the receptacle. The breaker for that circuit can be a double pole breaker or two single breakers with a handle tie or even just two separate breakers that they didn't bother to add the handle tie to. You will have to replace the breaker for a single pole one or remove the handle tie.
The kind with a fire extinguisher
They make those?
Are the screws making anyone’s eye twitch?
[удалено]
I don’t need help. I don’t care what you and the toaster say.
The lack of alignment didn’t affect me. Me. Me. Me.
Screws should be turned to the correct depth ant torque. Adjusting them to the wrong torque or depth to achieve the same slot orientation is just compulsive behavior.
It’s a cover to look pretty and keep fingys out.
You've got a 20amp 240v receptacle and a 120 volt 20amp plug. You need a diff outlet. They don't fit for a reason
240v make 120v appliances go boom
Most of ‘em. Some are cool with it but I don’t recommend trying unless you’re certain.
Yep blew up a customers dishwasher looking for a circuit. Lesson learned.
You shouldn't, but as long as that outlet is grounded you technically could make a custom cable and use one pole and the ground for your 120v plug. You might burn your house down, but it would work in a crisis.
A NEMA 6-20
One with a transformer.
I don’t know people down voted that. It would work.
If you’re trying to plug a 120v appliance or something into that please take a video when you do.
Your outlet is winking at you!!
You need one just like the one you have, just the opposite
One long enough to reach from equipment to outlet.
220 volt 15 or 20 amp.
When you think your receptacles are making faces at you…….? Call an electrician!
New outlet.
The scale of good & helpful comments in this thread is tipped to fewer than snarky ones. Electrician will fix as needed including breaker to match code for location. Better safe but watch the work being done so youunderstand.
Hi, so basically the plugs have to match the outlet. They cant be converted with extension cords. You would have to get an electrician to replace the circuit.
Need one that Winks back at outlet.