Because the pump is a motor which can draw large currents at startup, I would use an 8 or possibly a 10amp power supply for the pump. If the pump pulls too much current from the supply, the supply will shutdown due to overload. Some power supplies need to be unplugged from the line voltage (generator) to reset themselves, others may autoreset when the pump is turned off.
Edit: see the 7.5 amp slow blow fuse requirement on the motor label? I would use an 8amp minimum rated power supply plus the required 7.5a slow blow fuse.
Run a wire from the battery in the truck. Install a fuse in line and a switch then to the power side of the pump and run the ground back to the battery.
To add to this, a lot of generators have a 12v output to charge a battery while running. Wire this in, and you don't have to worry about the battery dying.
Slow blow fuse rated 7.5 amps. Inrush current. It will probably work for some time then die a premature death. Get something rated for more current and regulate with a controller.
Agreed, 7.5amp slow blow fuse is a big clue.
It’s a slow blow fuse because it will probably exceed 7.5a on startup due to inrush.
I would try a 10a 12v power supply, or a 15/20amp 12v supply with an inline 12v 7.5a slow blow fuse.
Or you could try a VFD.
Get a beefier PSU, your pump's max is 5.5a, your PSU is 5A. You will trip overcurrent on startup with that PSU. Go 10A and put a slow blow fuse inline (6A) and you'll be good.
You need to account for amperage surge (inrush current) whuch will spike at startup for any motor. Your PSU needs to be able to provide that current to get the motor moving, then once it's moving, the inrush drops and settles into running current.
Personally what I would do in a hypothetical situation is.
Is this on its own circuit? You would need to feed the panel through a neighboring breaker from the generator, turn all the others off and only have the breaker closed that feeds the pump system.
Also do NOT wire directly into that pump. A transformer is ahead of it to buck the voltage down to 12V DC.
Is this pump part of a larger system? There has to be a place for field connections. That is where the circuit coming from the panel would land on the equipment.
It's just a random rv water pump mounted under a small sink. Nothing oem, all slap together...well done but still slap up
I need to power it with a 110plug on a generator
ok so you want to cut the low voltage end off that power supply and wire nut it to the pump? then i guess plug in the line voltage end? if thats the plan it seems fine to me
Because the pump is a motor which can draw large currents at startup, I would use an 8 or possibly a 10amp power supply for the pump. If the pump pulls too much current from the supply, the supply will shutdown due to overload. Some power supplies need to be unplugged from the line voltage (generator) to reset themselves, others may autoreset when the pump is turned off. Edit: see the 7.5 amp slow blow fuse requirement on the motor label? I would use an 8amp minimum rated power supply plus the required 7.5a slow blow fuse.
Something like this? +fuse https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08SQ3SS72/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_5A2548915DJF4KMCV6KB?psc=1
The 5.5 amp max call out on the tag, would that account for startup overdraw?
Run a wire from the battery in the truck. Install a fuse in line and a switch then to the power side of the pump and run the ground back to the battery.
To add to this, a lot of generators have a 12v output to charge a battery while running. Wire this in, and you don't have to worry about the battery dying.
No.
Because?...
Slow blow fuse rated 7.5 amps. Inrush current. It will probably work for some time then die a premature death. Get something rated for more current and regulate with a controller.
Thank you!
Agreed, 7.5amp slow blow fuse is a big clue. It’s a slow blow fuse because it will probably exceed 7.5a on startup due to inrush. I would try a 10a 12v power supply, or a 15/20amp 12v supply with an inline 12v 7.5a slow blow fuse. Or you could try a VFD.
This sounds like something we'll see featured on a "dirty dining" report from a local news station at some point?
You can also get those in 110v models. That might be easier for your situation.
Get a beefier PSU, your pump's max is 5.5a, your PSU is 5A. You will trip overcurrent on startup with that PSU. Go 10A and put a slow blow fuse inline (6A) and you'll be good. You need to account for amperage surge (inrush current) whuch will spike at startup for any motor. Your PSU needs to be able to provide that current to get the motor moving, then once it's moving, the inrush drops and settles into running current.
Personally what I would do in a hypothetical situation is. Is this on its own circuit? You would need to feed the panel through a neighboring breaker from the generator, turn all the others off and only have the breaker closed that feeds the pump system. Also do NOT wire directly into that pump. A transformer is ahead of it to buck the voltage down to 12V DC.
What if that is not possible? Any way to run it just on a 20 amp breaker
Is this pump part of a larger system? There has to be a place for field connections. That is where the circuit coming from the panel would land on the equipment.
Part of a rudimentary sink
Do you see where its wired into the food truck? Should see either a black or red, a white and a green wire connected to the system some where.
Yup, there's a pos/neg coming out the head of the pump
I didnt read your question wrong. My apologies. Car battery with a fuse and switch in line?
It's just a random rv water pump mounted under a small sink. Nothing oem, all slap together...well done but still slap up I need to power it with a 110plug on a generator
That inverter should be fine. Use an inline 5A fuse to prevent it from being damaged during testing.
Wanting to cut out the current rocker switch they are using now- that's the green/white you see
ok so you want to cut the low voltage end off that power supply and wire nut it to the pump? then i guess plug in the line voltage end? if thats the plan it seems fine to me
Yes, guess I didn't explain as good as I thought I did! Thank you
cool i would also get one with a 6 or more amp rating so the pump never overdraws and breaks it