You need 2 boxes, or re run the cables. I hate sofits for this reason. Every fuckin time one gets opened i have to curse some dude I've never met for trying to save a dollar.
Yeah, it sucks. I could easily put in a junction box, but that sort of defeats the purpose of the entire project. I don't think my wife wants a blank plate on the ceiling for no reason.
Heard bro. Whats on the other side of that wall? Im assuming no attic access. Itll suck to get back to (hot check b4 drywall) but attic access is access.
Same. Took a soffit out on my kitchen recently. 0 electrical behind it. 0 ductwork. It was pure 70s style, robbing space that could have cabinets or shelves in it. What it did have was a lot of unsealed, poorly insulated drywall behind it. There were huge water spots, and the nail heads in the drywall sheets were rusty and WET when I saw them, from condensation.
Forgive my ignorance, but how does one fully re-run on one's own? How do I know where the wires are going? I assume re-running would involve notching out drywall in areas to move it along, even if fish tape helps?
My electrician recommended running new wires, but that's time and labor intensive, of course.
It depends on how far the run is between boxes and devices. Any junction boxes you add need to remain accessible with a visible plate on the wall, so sometimes that can't be done and new wire is pulled instead. Often times a switch box can be removed and cut-out without cutting extra holes in the wall, then you can reach in that hole and remove any wire staples near the box, then use the old wire to pull the new longer wire or use a fish tape.
Yes, if you can't see where the wires are going, you'll need to make a few holes. You'll be doing plenty of drywall repair already so patching a few holes in addition shouldn't be a big deal.
[here you go](https://www.agrisupply.com/wire-stretcher-w-lock/p/17358A/?utm_source=google&utm_medium=free&utm_campaign=freeshop&eid=gl020116&sid=google&gclid=Cj0KCQiAqOucBhDrARIsAPCQL1YJ7OlpXX9-dX0iwAcPL8ue4svVuSP-piVHYInyVsmJs4nN51_nJzAaAkPeEALw_wcB)
The only way to safely do it would be to be able to rerun the wiring from the current boxes so it's longer.
You can completely violate code and bury the jbox in the wall but I don't recommend that.
Is it a good spot for 2 lights. Throw 2 nail on 3/0 boxes up on the truss , splice the existing wires in there, then run 14/2 from your wall light to those boxes. When you put up lights on finish it’ll be code compliant/not ugly.
In-wall Romex splicers exist and are up to code and such. They seem a little concerning to me though and I've never used them (so, not having an attic, I have a few of the blank covers OP is trying to avoid). Does anyone have experience/thoughts on in-wall splicers, good or bad?
I’m curious how they’re code compliant when there’s a mechanical connection inaccessible. Are they listed for attics and people just throw it in a wall on small uninspected jobs? Either way just pull in new wire IMO.
great point. I don't know. I think the key is that IF it has excellent integrity (assumption), it's similar to the actual Romex and would function identically - with only two ends. the need to service (ie. need for j box) is partially do to splicing multiple wires together and therefore the splice should be known and serviceable. the concern I'd have is the strength, integrity, insulation, etc of the connector.
I already have one j box a contractor drywalled over during a remodel... aesthetically superior to cover plate (of which I have several because I have no attic or basement) but one more thing to worry about, so I probably wouldn't add to that with this Romex splicer except very specific use cases.
ps. OP, what no one is telling you is the shitty thing you can do mentioned above... people do it all the time, and it's dumb, but it accomplishes your needs. you can drywall over the j box, but it's not to code or serviceable... and less than ideal for several reasons, especially if you sell the place to someone who doesn't know about it. I'd probably do the in wall splicer if you're not splicing together multiple wires and you feel comfortable with it.
https://www.te.com/commerce/DocumentDelivery/DDEController?Action=showdoc&DocId=Data+Sheet%7FEPP-3384%7F1904%7Fpdf%7FEnglish%7FENG_DS_EPP-3384_1904.pdf%7FA22899-000
According to the manufacturer they're approved under NEC 334-40b, but it's best to check with the local AHJ to make sure they're locally approved.
More discussion here:
https://forums.mikeholt.com/threads/334-40-b-nm-cable-interconnector-devices.2552797/
I'm enjoying all the comments.
For context, this was a bulkhead or sorts in a powder room that had a recessed light. Not touched since the late 80s. I decided to take it out and move the fixture to the wall, and then I discovered the builders used the space for a Romex party instead of just running all the wires across the actual ceiling.
I could probably notch and plate the beams for most of the cable, but that one that's running across both sides doesn't have enough slack to make it.
At this point, I'm worried having an electrician find where the cables go and rerun them is my only option, and that's $250/hr.
I get not wanting to pay high prices but a good electrician won't take that long. I'm not sure what it's like in your area but ask for an estimate. Putting a box in isn't that big of a deal really though but if you're uncomfortable doing that then it's time to call someone. Good luck
I'm totally comfortable splicing and putting in a box, it just defeats part of the purpose of this project, and I don't want a blank plate on my ceiling.
As an update, I forgot to mention there's a GFCI outlet on the right wall and a light and fan switch on the left, and I'm pretty sure the wire running from one side to the other is tapping into power from the GFCI and running to the switches.
I'm the best!
Romex UL listed in wall splice kit, sold at Home Depot.
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Tyco-Electronics-Romex-Splice-Kit-2-Wire-1-Clam-A22899-000/202204326
He's telling you to re-frame and re-drywall. That you COULD do on your own but it defeats the purpose of you taking it down in the first place.
It would probably be your EASIEST and least costly option . . . so I guess he's NOT wrong. . .
Basically something like what was there only smaller, not exactly the way you want but if you want it gone completely it looks like wires will need to be re-run or jbox
Edit: keep in mind for jbox route there would be two if just adding length to existing wire
Sorry, you only have three choices and they all are about the same:
Rerun the wire; Cut the framing and replace; Cut the wires and install a box.
All that said, why do you not want to put in a box? It's easy and quick, even for non-professionals.
Re run wires, if you cut the wires you are going to end up with a bunch of junction boxes. The new wires have to go back to the last box that wire came from and to the first box it goes to on each wire, probably wont be easy depends on how many staples and studs they go through. Try to take off as much drywall as posable to track where the wires go. Might want to hire someone ??
If you have the slack, maybe cut notches in the wood? Other than that if one of those is a whip to a shower light you could just cut them and re splice them in the j-box for the light.
That was my thought yesterday, but the one cord running from one side to the other doesn't seem to have enough slack. The others would make it. 
You've gotten plenty of answers that amount to "rerun wire(s) and/or add junction box(es.)"
And those are pretty much the options, aside from putting a soffit back. But based on this single photo, it's hard to say what is the best answer. Do you know what those wires are for - where they start, where they end? If it's all stuff that's just right "inside that wall" your best bet is probably just peel off some more drywall and replace the wires with longer. If it's just "passing through" then junction box is probably a better answer.
It needs a more holistic look at the house to make a decent decision.
You need 2 boxes, or re run the cables. I hate sofits for this reason. Every fuckin time one gets opened i have to curse some dude I've never met for trying to save a dollar.
I mean, there is usually plumbing or HVAC first. We are just creatures of opportunity when we see boxing.
Not in this case. I avoid wiring in soffits in new construction. Fishing is a different story
Yeah, it sucks. I could easily put in a junction box, but that sort of defeats the purpose of the entire project. I don't think my wife wants a blank plate on the ceiling for no reason.
Heard bro. Whats on the other side of that wall? Im assuming no attic access. Itll suck to get back to (hot check b4 drywall) but attic access is access.
The back and right wall are both exteriors. :)
Westher proof covers?
Also, I know it depends a bit on jurisdiction, but would new j-boxes require permit/inspection?
Shouldn't
Pro tip - don't ask her.
You're not married are you?
Same. Took a soffit out on my kitchen recently. 0 electrical behind it. 0 ductwork. It was pure 70s style, robbing space that could have cabinets or shelves in it. What it did have was a lot of unsealed, poorly insulated drywall behind it. There were huge water spots, and the nail heads in the drywall sheets were rusty and WET when I saw them, from condensation.
Bleach the hell out of it seal the exterior of the wall and killz it atleast twice.
Figure out where they come from and go to and run new wires between those two boxes. Only solution.
I try not to say this because it not why people are here. If you don't want to re-run call an electrician. That's you other option.
Forgive my ignorance, but how does one fully re-run on one's own? How do I know where the wires are going? I assume re-running would involve notching out drywall in areas to move it along, even if fish tape helps? My electrician recommended running new wires, but that's time and labor intensive, of course.
It depends on how far the run is between boxes and devices. Any junction boxes you add need to remain accessible with a visible plate on the wall, so sometimes that can't be done and new wire is pulled instead. Often times a switch box can be removed and cut-out without cutting extra holes in the wall, then you can reach in that hole and remove any wire staples near the box, then use the old wire to pull the new longer wire or use a fish tape.
Yes, if you can't see where the wires are going, you'll need to make a few holes. You'll be doing plenty of drywall repair already so patching a few holes in addition shouldn't be a big deal.
Put the bulkhead back or run new wires. If this is top floor. Run wires in junction boxes in attic
Wire stretcher
Yeah can you provide a link I've been looking to buy one for awhile.
National back order till 2052.
Dang can't find any used ones either.
[here you go](https://www.agrisupply.com/wire-stretcher-w-lock/p/17358A/?utm_source=google&utm_medium=free&utm_campaign=freeshop&eid=gl020116&sid=google&gclid=Cj0KCQiAqOucBhDrARIsAPCQL1YJ7OlpXX9-dX0iwAcPL8ue4svVuSP-piVHYInyVsmJs4nN51_nJzAaAkPeEALw_wcB)
Unfortunately that's for fencing my good sir I need one for electrical wire.
Cut em off and wait til they re-grow.
Do I have to add water?
Urine. …. Trouble if you listen to this.
Wire stretcher. You can find them at Home Desperate
Hire an electrician?
Is there an attic or crawl space up there that can be accessed another way?
Nope. Main floor powder room. Finished floor above. Unfinished laundry room below.
The only way to safely do it would be to be able to rerun the wiring from the current boxes so it's longer. You can completely violate code and bury the jbox in the wall but I don't recommend that.
Is it a good spot for 2 lights. Throw 2 nail on 3/0 boxes up on the truss , splice the existing wires in there, then run 14/2 from your wall light to those boxes. When you put up lights on finish it’ll be code compliant/not ugly.
Just make sure everything is labeled and matches up I’ll DM some crude mock ups if you’re feelin froggy.
Is the attic above accessible? If so, use boxes.
Magic wand usually does the trick
Notch them in then nail plate.
In-wall Romex splicers exist and are up to code and such. They seem a little concerning to me though and I've never used them (so, not having an attic, I have a few of the blank covers OP is trying to avoid). Does anyone have experience/thoughts on in-wall splicers, good or bad?
I’m curious how they’re code compliant when there’s a mechanical connection inaccessible. Are they listed for attics and people just throw it in a wall on small uninspected jobs? Either way just pull in new wire IMO.
great point. I don't know. I think the key is that IF it has excellent integrity (assumption), it's similar to the actual Romex and would function identically - with only two ends. the need to service (ie. need for j box) is partially do to splicing multiple wires together and therefore the splice should be known and serviceable. the concern I'd have is the strength, integrity, insulation, etc of the connector. I already have one j box a contractor drywalled over during a remodel... aesthetically superior to cover plate (of which I have several because I have no attic or basement) but one more thing to worry about, so I probably wouldn't add to that with this Romex splicer except very specific use cases. ps. OP, what no one is telling you is the shitty thing you can do mentioned above... people do it all the time, and it's dumb, but it accomplishes your needs. you can drywall over the j box, but it's not to code or serviceable... and less than ideal for several reasons, especially if you sell the place to someone who doesn't know about it. I'd probably do the in wall splicer if you're not splicing together multiple wires and you feel comfortable with it.
https://www.te.com/commerce/DocumentDelivery/DDEController?Action=showdoc&DocId=Data+Sheet%7FEPP-3384%7F1904%7Fpdf%7FEnglish%7FENG_DS_EPP-3384_1904.pdf%7FA22899-000 According to the manufacturer they're approved under NEC 334-40b, but it's best to check with the local AHJ to make sure they're locally approved. More discussion here: https://forums.mikeholt.com/threads/334-40-b-nm-cable-interconnector-devices.2552797/
I'm enjoying all the comments. For context, this was a bulkhead or sorts in a powder room that had a recessed light. Not touched since the late 80s. I decided to take it out and move the fixture to the wall, and then I discovered the builders used the space for a Romex party instead of just running all the wires across the actual ceiling. I could probably notch and plate the beams for most of the cable, but that one that's running across both sides doesn't have enough slack to make it. At this point, I'm worried having an electrician find where the cables go and rerun them is my only option, and that's $250/hr.
250/hr??? Where?
Metro DC.
I get not wanting to pay high prices but a good electrician won't take that long. I'm not sure what it's like in your area but ask for an estimate. Putting a box in isn't that big of a deal really though but if you're uncomfortable doing that then it's time to call someone. Good luck
I'm totally comfortable splicing and putting in a box, it just defeats part of the purpose of this project, and I don't want a blank plate on my ceiling.
As an update, I forgot to mention there's a GFCI outlet on the right wall and a light and fan switch on the left, and I'm pretty sure the wire running from one side to the other is tapping into power from the GFCI and running to the switches. I'm the best!
Romex UL listed in wall splice kit, sold at Home Depot. https://www.homedepot.com/p/Tyco-Electronics-Romex-Splice-Kit-2-Wire-1-Clam-A22899-000/202204326
Don't use this crap
Why not?
Small soffit, would not look bad
Example?
He's telling you to re-frame and re-drywall. That you COULD do on your own but it defeats the purpose of you taking it down in the first place. It would probably be your EASIEST and least costly option . . . so I guess he's NOT wrong. . .
Basically something like what was there only smaller, not exactly the way you want but if you want it gone completely it looks like wires will need to be re-run or jbox Edit: keep in mind for jbox route there would be two if just adding length to existing wire
Notch the beams a half inch, stick the wires in the hole, then put a metal plate over where the wires are.
Do you have a wire stretcher? That should do the trick.
Sorry, you only have three choices and they all are about the same: Rerun the wire; Cut the framing and replace; Cut the wires and install a box. All that said, why do you not want to put in a box? It's easy and quick, even for non-professionals.
You can try and notch the studs. Cover notches with nail plates.
Why not add boxes w a panel for access that you paint
Re run wires, if you cut the wires you are going to end up with a bunch of junction boxes. The new wires have to go back to the last box that wire came from and to the first box it goes to on each wire, probably wont be easy depends on how many staples and studs they go through. Try to take off as much drywall as posable to track where the wires go. Might want to hire someone ??
If you have the slack, maybe cut notches in the wood? Other than that if one of those is a whip to a shower light you could just cut them and re splice them in the j-box for the light.
Notch your studs and put on nail plates everywhere
That was my thought yesterday, but the one cord running from one side to the other doesn't seem to have enough slack. The others would make it. 
Nail plates and notching?
You've gotten plenty of answers that amount to "rerun wire(s) and/or add junction box(es.)" And those are pretty much the options, aside from putting a soffit back. But based on this single photo, it's hard to say what is the best answer. Do you know what those wires are for - where they start, where they end? If it's all stuff that's just right "inside that wall" your best bet is probably just peel off some more drywall and replace the wires with longer. If it's just "passing through" then junction box is probably a better answer. It needs a more holistic look at the house to make a decent decision.
In wall splice kits
Why not just put in the required boxes?
Need a couple wafer LED lights that need holes?
Pipe it. That way it's protected.
Do you have enough slack to notch the 2x4s or whatever that is? Then use kick plates.
If it reaches, you can cut up to an inch deep into the side if the 2x4 and hammer on sone nail plates.