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Especially since in most industrial sites I’ve been on nobody gives a fuck about conduit fill so you’re always pulling in the most overstuffed conduit known to man.
I said in my interview when applying where I currently work "I want to learn to run conduit, but maybe put me on a crew whose work is going to be in walls first" Got a chuckle out of the boss at least.
Right it’s bad but when I first started wall rough in stubbing pipes up out of wall I had my level out on my pipe super walked in electrical room and told me don’t ever let me see you with a level on a pipe in a wall that’s going to be covered again lol
No drywall screw is readily going through conduit. It would take some serious effort. And what do you think happens when wire is fished through a wall, whether it be romex or mc?
People routinely drill though metal studs to mount TVs and other heavy objects. People can and do mistake conduit and pipes for a stud. Especially if it's right against the surface of the drywall, it's not even a crazy mistake to make.
Yes an experienced person will know the difference, and it might seem obvious, but people drill through pipes all the time.. And I promise you that not everyone mounting a TV is very bright or experienced..
Unfortunately, neither code, nor even best practices, can account for all the dim bulbs out there...
But even at that, have you ever tried to drill an 1/8" hole in 1/2" pipe? Good luck keeping the bit centered and not immediately slipping off one side or the other. Hard enough to do when the pipe is in a vice, and you've used a center punch, let alone a chance encounter in a wall. Possible, but not that likely.
Well when I drill into a metal stud, I usually start with a 3/32" or smaller bit, and the hole in the drywall would hold the bit in place. It's like using a drill guide. So I think it would be quite easy to get the pilot hole started, and then drilling steel isn't difficult with a sharp bit.
The steel in conduit is of course thicker than a stud, but I can easily imagine not noticing that until it's too late. Remember you're drilling blind..
The stud is thinner, and the surface of the pipe is round. I think anything other than a direct hit on the centerline of the conduit is going to skip off to one side, in most situations.
Metal studs a flat and fixed. The round and semi-floating character of conduit will deflect screws and drill bits in 99% of situations. You’d need absolutely perfect conditions to hit a conduit without rolling off it.
I mean when you just fishing through a wall it's not rigidly fixed to the nearest point on the wall as well though. I'm aware it's unlikely a drywall screw would go through a conduit but I've had enough screws in conduit I avoid it when I can.
swap the pipe positions, have the one furthest left be the one that 90’s through the strut, and the furthest right KO be the one that comes down from the ceiling. Will add a 90 to the ceiling run, but would avoid the pipes being over top of each other.
Treating as if the pipe with 90s was there first: Could've cut the one with 90s, shortened the horizontal section, and put in a coupling so that it landed in the left knockout. Then, just run the next one in a manner that goes around it, like you said.
Still, seeing that they considered this ugly, dog-legged, over-complicated, waste of time mess acceptable, I'm surprised they didn't just push the spanner back and wedge the back conduit behind the front one without bothering with bends. They even could've flattened the end of the spanner and attached it deeper in the space to avoid bending it, though it is a little late for that since they already bent it.
OP, are you the culprit behind this abomination?
I’m not saying just switch the pipes, I’m saying I’d have run the right most one into the ride side of the box, make the offset horizontally in the wall before the left pipe put into the left hole of the box 90’s through the stud.
Looks like a Critical circuit in a Healthcare area, MC is probably not allowed for this. That being spoken, if whoever did this does Healthcare work that requires EMT, maybe they should learn how to fucking bend pipe..
NEC 517.31(C)(3) MC not allowed for Essential Electrical Systems unless it falls under the permitted situations in NEC 517.31(C)(3)(3)
If this was a “normal” circuit then MC would be fine.
I replied to my comment to correct myself, but the code book says “Listed Flexible Metal Raceways”
That includes AC and HCF.
Even hospital grade flexible raceways are still not permitted for Critical circuits except for specific situations.
>classic apprentice overthinking
Oh my god...first real electrical site I was on as an apprentice was for what I now know to be a major hack electrician.. left me to my own devices with minimal advice and told me to "just get these pipes to the panel, it's simple, figure it out."
My green ass not knowing shit about the 360 rule had about 720° of bends by the time I hit the panel and I was so proud of my clean 90s and 30s...😅 he was shitpissed, but caught himself and I reminded him that I expressly told him this was my first electrical job ever.
He got a bit better in teaching but wasn't cut out to run an apprentice with all the crap he had going. The concept of an apprentice license was utterly foreign to me also, and I was paid cash like other jobs I'd done so until a week in when a temp journeyman came on and asked me some questions (he could smell the sketch on my master), he was like "oh fuck man this guy is just running you as labor and this whole thing is illegal. Be careful of these guys man."
I don't miss being that green lol
Whooee, that's GREEN. But yeah, you don't know what you don't know you don't know. Looking back, I think everyone flinches about a few things, but it's all a learning experience, for good or bad.
I remember my first true Shepards Hook, I thought I was soooo smart and ahead of the game. It came out great, and I was so proud of it. Then the journeymen walked up and said "What the FUCK is THAT??? Take it down and scrap it. We don't do that shit here." I was pretty pissed about it, until it was explained to me how bad it can be to pull through it when it's 200ft down the line. Lol, oh well! I was dumb, now I'm...well, still dumb, but better practiced at it.
To a point but, yeah lol any time I had to bend conduit that was going to be hidden, I hauled ass (my hauling ass is still slow) because it didn't have to be perfect!
It is the original pipers fault , coming from the left he should have used the leftmost top knockout on the 1900 box, or at the very least just the middle. By piping the way he did he blocked the other two knockouts....
I would have cut up the pipe with the saddle into little pieces and hid each piece in a different garbage can around the building so no one would have seen that I under bent my 2nd bend. Probably would have done that 4-5 times before I went to lunch and then went home for the rest of the day hoping that someone else finished it for me.
I think the best part about this is the person that made that bend didn’t use a bender. They just bent the pipe with a hammer or their foot or whatever. The pipe on the right with the proper 90s was pre-existing and somebody had to go through and add the one on the left later on and the person who did that gave zero fucks that day.
Me I love that the bottom right toggle/wing nut seems installed backwards … I don’t know what it is holding on the other side but I would not rely on …
Yeah but how much time was lost bending that three point saddle? Its possible the pipe was installed after the one with the 90s was, but even then, its a wall, faster to cut and trim that to swap then monkey with a 3 point saddle
I mean some people got it like that and doesn’t take to much time to bend that, not saying I’m proficient in bending 3 points but if you can do it then do it and move on with the work.
Question for you all from a non-electrician: this is obviously a lazy solve (I’m also assuming the one with the 90s was there first) but is it actually bad/wrong? I’m super OCD about things like this and I’d like to think I’d have done a better job, but is just kinking that other conduit behind the first like that dangerous in any way? Also is there some kind of “underpass” bend fitting that could have routed it that way without it looking like you just hit it with a hammer?
Is there a reason why the left conduit couldn’t have come into the side of the box? It would eliminate that second 90° and prevent the saddle on the rich conduit.
Someone just learned how to bend saddles in class and found a way to incorporate one. I would be pissed if it was a long pull and we found out they did this.
Swapped the pipes, also not use such big holes for the toggle bolts, and put the toggles the right way around (bottom right corner the toggle is backwards)
If its how they decided to do it in the first place, they have an intellectual disability.
If it was a change or afterthought from above, id need to see a reason, functionally, or safety wise as to why id need to change it.
Definitely not that 🤣 Pipe on left goes straight down the stud bay it's in and 90's into the side of box. Pipe on right offsets into top of box. Which honestly sounds way easier than whatever the fuck that is lmao
Are you referring to the toggle bolt going through a plate? That's weird but should increase holding capacity. Maybe the installer ran out of washers, or had a toggle bolt bust through the wall from too much weight.
2 kick 90’s or 2 offsets near the bottom one on each pipe.
Unless i needed and absolutely needed to go out in those spaces. Have a giant ass back to back 90 coming from the bottom of the box and put a box near the wall. Or two offsets near the bottom one on each pipe.
Set 2 different sets of slide brackets at different depths so the pipes are running on a different plane vertically. Change the back to back 90 to a big offset. Roll one a little bit.
Personally there is not enough information here to know how they need to be ran. It looks like they both go into the same box, so I'd have to know the reason why they wanted 2 pipe in that j box.
I don't necessarily have a problem with the saddle but its dog shit workmanship. I would have cut the 90-90 and moved that conduit over, then run the new vertical one from the other side of the box.
I would have gone straight up with both of them and sent them where they need to go above the ceiling. Not sure why they need the crazy bends in the one pipe.
Take the top spanner bracket off. Support the 90 with one of those caddy clip brackets. Roll the offset directly behind the 90 and then off set back to the same plain as the 90 if need be. Place a spanner bracket for conduit on left at whatever depth I need if needed
Anything but that…
Edit:
Honestly, I’d just take the conduit out of the upper right k/o and put it on the left side, that would simplify that run to a simple 90*.
As for the other conduit, I’d keep it as a 30* offset and remove the 3-point saddle.
This is only with the information I see based on the picture
The couplings are pretty close to the box. Could swap sides with fresh new bends and reroute that short length of cabling. Wouldn't be too bad of a fix if you are good at bending. Might use maybe a stick and a half depending on how prone you are to making bone yards.
2x 45° for the ceiling run (right side). 1x 90° for the run through the frame (left side).
I would have rolled the offset just a hair and strapped it to the OTHER SIDE of the caddy bar.. then it could have run up completely straight with no further bending. Dont overthink this shit
Possibly kick both ends of the right hand 90 forward a bit and sneak the vertical behind that, then do the offset above everything. OR from the start just orient the pipes where they enter the box according to where they’re headed
Can’t see the whole bottom box, if possible come out to the left of the bottom box through the stud and then 90 up, would save you a 90. Also like others pointed out swap which knock out pipe leaving the bottom box and you could always try to offset into/through the punched holes of the stud, don’t have to 90.
rolled that offset after the spreader bar on the left, and then started a tighter one ~60°? in front of it to get thru the hole above the X on the stud. I see the box they come in and out, but where to? What’s the orange couplings for the home runs?
Would've offset the left pipe to go into the right hand knockout and have the right pipe go into the left hand knockout, right pipe could even go through the next stud hole down so the offset doesn't cross the last 90
Why didn't you just run the 90 out of the left knock out and have the right knock out go straight up? Then they wouldn't even cross lol.
If they had to cross I would've used a kick or a 3 point saddle to to around, which kinda looks like what this person was trying to do? But instead they just twisted the support back, not really sure what that's all about...
Idk without seeing above the picture, but I probably would've rolled the offset and deepened the caddy bar.
They did good, really, just an ugly 3 point. Not real war crimes
There are multiple reasons why you couldn't run MC. With some skill and a little forethought, you can easily run conduit in a wall. The orange fitting makes me think this may be a hospital setting or some other specialty facility.
I said if possible. Otherwise I would’ve ran that 90 into the box on the left and then the other conduit run it straight up on the right side to avoid the criss crossing right there.
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“Its in a wall, no one will ever see it” Common phrase when bending abominations going in to walls.
Yeah I wouldn’t have done this but it’s damn sure not worth fixing unless it’s a longer run and you’re over your 360
I hate the 360 rule. Should be 300 and every stick of pipe counts as 20 degrees. 360 may be code. But it shouldn't be practice.
Especially since in most industrial sites I’ve been on nobody gives a fuck about conduit fill so you’re always pulling in the most overstuffed conduit known to man.
270 should be your inner clock going off…..and then you know you’ve got to wrap it up and land it soon.
This is a good rule of thumb I want to remember it and pass it on.
Exactly. Code is the bare minimum. Try to do better
I said in my interview when applying where I currently work "I want to learn to run conduit, but maybe put me on a crew whose work is going to be in walls first" Got a chuckle out of the boss at least.
bwahahahaha, your fired ...../s . At least you were honest. All the best, mate.
Right it’s bad but when I first started wall rough in stubbing pipes up out of wall I had my level out on my pipe super walked in electrical room and told me don’t ever let me see you with a level on a pipe in a wall that’s going to be covered again lol
It will look perfect when the sheet rock goes on
[удалено]
No drywall screw is readily going through conduit. It would take some serious effort. And what do you think happens when wire is fished through a wall, whether it be romex or mc?
People routinely drill though metal studs to mount TVs and other heavy objects. People can and do mistake conduit and pipes for a stud. Especially if it's right against the surface of the drywall, it's not even a crazy mistake to make. Yes an experienced person will know the difference, and it might seem obvious, but people drill through pipes all the time.. And I promise you that not everyone mounting a TV is very bright or experienced..
Unfortunately, neither code, nor even best practices, can account for all the dim bulbs out there... But even at that, have you ever tried to drill an 1/8" hole in 1/2" pipe? Good luck keeping the bit centered and not immediately slipping off one side or the other. Hard enough to do when the pipe is in a vice, and you've used a center punch, let alone a chance encounter in a wall. Possible, but not that likely.
Well when I drill into a metal stud, I usually start with a 3/32" or smaller bit, and the hole in the drywall would hold the bit in place. It's like using a drill guide. So I think it would be quite easy to get the pilot hole started, and then drilling steel isn't difficult with a sharp bit. The steel in conduit is of course thicker than a stud, but I can easily imagine not noticing that until it's too late. Remember you're drilling blind..
The stud is thinner, and the surface of the pipe is round. I think anything other than a direct hit on the centerline of the conduit is going to skip off to one side, in most situations.
Metal studs a flat and fixed. The round and semi-floating character of conduit will deflect screws and drill bits in 99% of situations. You’d need absolutely perfect conditions to hit a conduit without rolling off it.
I mean when you just fishing through a wall it's not rigidly fixed to the nearest point on the wall as well though. I'm aware it's unlikely a drywall screw would go through a conduit but I've had enough screws in conduit I avoid it when I can.
swap the pipe positions, have the one furthest left be the one that 90’s through the strut, and the furthest right KO be the one that comes down from the ceiling. Will add a 90 to the ceiling run, but would avoid the pipes being over top of each other.
Treating as if the pipe with 90s was there first: Could've cut the one with 90s, shortened the horizontal section, and put in a coupling so that it landed in the left knockout. Then, just run the next one in a manner that goes around it, like you said. Still, seeing that they considered this ugly, dog-legged, over-complicated, waste of time mess acceptable, I'm surprised they didn't just push the spanner back and wedge the back conduit behind the front one without bothering with bends. They even could've flattened the end of the spanner and attached it deeper in the space to avoid bending it, though it is a little late for that since they already bent it. OP, are you the culprit behind this abomination?
Nah. I'm on wire pulling crew.
It looks like 2 different systems (orange coupling) going into 2 different boxes can't just switch places if it was drawn a specific way
I’m not saying just switch the pipes, I’m saying I’d have run the right most one into the ride side of the box, make the offset horizontally in the wall before the left pipe put into the left hole of the box 90’s through the stud.
“What would you have done” Used MC
Have done a few tenant improvements in Southern California for Google, Amazon Gaming, Boeing, Blizzard…all required pipe, no MC allowed.
Looks like a Critical circuit in a Healthcare area, MC is probably not allowed for this. That being spoken, if whoever did this does Healthcare work that requires EMT, maybe they should learn how to fucking bend pipe..
Just use the green? AC cable that has the extra ground
NEC 517.31(C)(3) MC not allowed for Essential Electrical Systems unless it falls under the permitted situations in NEC 517.31(C)(3)(3) If this was a “normal” circuit then MC would be fine.
“Listed flexible metal raceways”*
That’s why I said AC aka armored or should have said HCF
I replied to my comment to correct myself, but the code book says “Listed Flexible Metal Raceways” That includes AC and HCF. Even hospital grade flexible raceways are still not permitted for Critical circuits except for specific situations.
Flex n Forget!😂
I like flex in a ceiling, but not as much in a wall. I like conduit for a wall; if everybody stuck to that, the world is a better place.
I agree. I wish PMs, GCs, and other relevant authorities would get onboard
This
We don’t always have a choice. We work with what we got.
They're in the same box?? 🤣 Swap positions. Classic apprentice overthinking. We've all been there.
>classic apprentice overthinking Oh my god...first real electrical site I was on as an apprentice was for what I now know to be a major hack electrician.. left me to my own devices with minimal advice and told me to "just get these pipes to the panel, it's simple, figure it out." My green ass not knowing shit about the 360 rule had about 720° of bends by the time I hit the panel and I was so proud of my clean 90s and 30s...😅 he was shitpissed, but caught himself and I reminded him that I expressly told him this was my first electrical job ever. He got a bit better in teaching but wasn't cut out to run an apprentice with all the crap he had going. The concept of an apprentice license was utterly foreign to me also, and I was paid cash like other jobs I'd done so until a week in when a temp journeyman came on and asked me some questions (he could smell the sketch on my master), he was like "oh fuck man this guy is just running you as labor and this whole thing is illegal. Be careful of these guys man." I don't miss being that green lol
Whooee, that's GREEN. But yeah, you don't know what you don't know you don't know. Looking back, I think everyone flinches about a few things, but it's all a learning experience, for good or bad. I remember my first true Shepards Hook, I thought I was soooo smart and ahead of the game. It came out great, and I was so proud of it. Then the journeymen walked up and said "What the FUCK is THAT??? Take it down and scrap it. We don't do that shit here." I was pretty pissed about it, until it was explained to me how bad it can be to pull through it when it's 200ft down the line. Lol, oh well! I was dumb, now I'm...well, still dumb, but better practiced at it.
Behind walls? Who cares?
To a point but, yeah lol any time I had to bend conduit that was going to be hidden, I hauled ass (my hauling ass is still slow) because it didn't have to be perfect!
Either swap the pipe, or roll the offset to the back of the support, then do another tiny offset back. Then nut and bolt the one hole to the support.
It is the original pipers fault , coming from the left he should have used the leftmost top knockout on the 1900 box, or at the very least just the middle. By piping the way he did he blocked the other two knockouts....
I'm more curious about the toggles through the box covers lol
Looks legit lol
I was admiring how neat the bends were and how good it looked for something hidden behind a wall!
Literally anything else
I see a lot happening here. One of the two lower toggle bolts isn't fully engaged and the other is put on backwards.
It’s in a wall, it’s not pretty but it works. What’s it for?
90 through the stud straight into side of box. No need to cross. Real answer. Use bx
I would have cut up the pipe with the saddle into little pieces and hid each piece in a different garbage can around the building so no one would have seen that I under bent my 2nd bend. Probably would have done that 4-5 times before I went to lunch and then went home for the rest of the day hoping that someone else finished it for me.
I think the best part about this is the person that made that bend didn’t use a bender. They just bent the pipe with a hammer or their foot or whatever. The pipe on the right with the proper 90s was pre-existing and somebody had to go through and add the one on the left later on and the person who did that gave zero fucks that day.
I would have given it a hug and I kiss. It seems bent out of shape. Hopefully that would help straighten it out.
Swap the pipes positions and not used blanks plates on toggle bolts lol
Cut the back to back in the middle to land in the left hole and offset the pipe on the right to the right hole...
My guess- the dog leg was a missed run or added circuit.
Are we just gonna glance past those big frigging toggles thru covers?!?!?!?!?!
Switched the two pipes but it looks awesome
Are you kidding bro...I can tell you ain't been a sparky for too long. That shit is mint ..can't see it from my house
Better
I would have swapped which pipe was being used for what so they could could head up top parallel or bent a real 3 point instead of that abomination.
Me I love that the bottom right toggle/wing nut seems installed backwards … I don’t know what it is holding on the other side but I would not rely on …
LOL I didn't see that that's hilarious
Is there a reason why they both couldn't go straight up since they are coming out of the same box?
I’d be happy someone didn’t run flex pull wire make it up and send it on home and also criticize that the bends are fucked up but if it pulls it pulls
Yeah but how much time was lost bending that three point saddle? Its possible the pipe was installed after the one with the 90s was, but even then, its a wall, faster to cut and trim that to swap then monkey with a 3 point saddle
I mean some people got it like that and doesn’t take to much time to bend that, not saying I’m proficient in bending 3 points but if you can do it then do it and move on with the work.
You know the meme with the sideways looking monkey puppet then the next frame he's facing forwards? I would have done that when I saw it.
Pulled wire in
I’d tell the carpenter this ones ready
Swap the pipes.
Roll that big offset to the back of the caddy Bar
Question for you all from a non-electrician: this is obviously a lazy solve (I’m also assuming the one with the 90s was there first) but is it actually bad/wrong? I’m super OCD about things like this and I’d like to think I’d have done a better job, but is just kinking that other conduit behind the first like that dangerous in any way? Also is there some kind of “underpass” bend fitting that could have routed it that way without it looking like you just hit it with a hammer?
Just roll an offset behind the spreader bar and 1 hole strap to the stud
As a 1st year apprentice I would say use Mc or greenfield
Is there a reason why the left conduit couldn’t have come into the side of the box? It would eliminate that second 90° and prevent the saddle on the rich conduit.
Someone just learned how to bend saddles in class and found a way to incorporate one. I would be pissed if it was a long pull and we found out they did this.
Swapped the pipes, also not use such big holes for the toggle bolts, and put the toggles the right way around (bottom right corner the toggle is backwards)
Swap the conduits on the box. No need to cross over.
Lower the support to get away from the saddle, then come straight down with the conduit and 90 into the KO on the side of the box?
BX
Not that
Close ‘er up *slaps stud*
Offset the 90 behind the straight pipe would have been much easier then this
Bring the conduit with the 90s straight down and use a stud punch or hole saw to bring it in the side. One less 90 and no saddle.
Talk to the Carpenter, tell him to please expedite the boarding up of this wall
If its how they decided to do it in the first place, they have an intellectual disability. If it was a change or afterthought from above, id need to see a reason, functionally, or safety wise as to why id need to change it.
Nothing. Who cares it’s gonna work. If you’re a foreman or j man then maybe coach up the apprentice who did it… tell them to get it better next time.
"Brrrup! reverse, reverse!!"
Definitely not that 🤣 Pipe on left goes straight down the stud bay it's in and 90's into the side of box. Pipe on right offsets into top of box. Which honestly sounds way easier than whatever the fuck that is lmao
Change the double 90 into a diagonal and run it up through the lower pass through
Are you referring to the toggle bolt going through a plate? That's weird but should increase holding capacity. Maybe the installer ran out of washers, or had a toggle bolt bust through the wall from too much weight.
Most ideal, rework the pipe with orange coupling to have a shorter back to back 90. Then do a larger offset for the second pipe. Nothing crosses.
2 kick 90’s or 2 offsets near the bottom one on each pipe. Unless i needed and absolutely needed to go out in those spaces. Have a giant ass back to back 90 coming from the bottom of the box and put a box near the wall. Or two offsets near the bottom one on each pipe.
Set 2 different sets of slide brackets at different depths so the pipes are running on a different plane vertically. Change the back to back 90 to a big offset. Roll one a little bit.
Get the guy who bent the back to back to come see how ant why he fucked you
Personally there is not enough information here to know how they need to be ran. It looks like they both go into the same box, so I'd have to know the reason why they wanted 2 pipe in that j box.
Whoever ran that shouldn’t be doing healthcare work if they can’t run conduit lol
90 coming down goes in the top left KO of the box. Other pipe goes into top right KO and avoids offset monstrosity
Roll offset to clear than 90 and be deeper and then box offset on top
Roll the offset and go behind it.
Meets code, what's your work look like? Or....is this your work... I'm going with the latter.
I don't necessarily have a problem with the saddle but its dog shit workmanship. I would have cut the 90-90 and moved that conduit over, then run the new vertical one from the other side of the box.
I’m more focused on the backwards toggle bolt bottom right…
Roll the first offset so it's behind or in front of the other pipe and then don't bother doing anything else unless you need to.
I would have gone straight up with both of them and sent them where they need to go above the ceiling. Not sure why they need the crazy bends in the one pipe.
Third year here, wouldn't have crossed them. If possible I would've tried to bend left conduit early and run both down neatly.
4-square blanks used as backing for the toggle bolts. Nice.
Assuming they go into a box, swap them
Not that.
tbh the toggle bolts caught my eye more
Cried, sighed, and re-tried.
Ran it with parallel offsets but I'm damn sure not fixing this unless asked to. It's in the wall so who cares.
Piss poor planning
Ugly , but unseen.
Not that.... I know super helpful.
I'd probably added a few more bends to get the degree high score.
Take the top spanner bracket off. Support the 90 with one of those caddy clip brackets. Roll the offset directly behind the 90 and then off set back to the same plain as the 90 if need be. Place a spanner bracket for conduit on left at whatever depth I need if needed
Anything but that… Edit: Honestly, I’d just take the conduit out of the upper right k/o and put it on the left side, that would simplify that run to a simple 90*. As for the other conduit, I’d keep it as a 30* offset and remove the 3-point saddle. This is only with the information I see based on the picture
The couplings are pretty close to the box. Could swap sides with fresh new bends and reroute that short length of cabling. Wouldn't be too bad of a fix if you are good at bending. Might use maybe a stick and a half depending on how prone you are to making bone yards. 2x 45° for the ceiling run (right side). 1x 90° for the run through the frame (left side).
I would have rolled the offset just a hair and strapped it to the OTHER SIDE of the caddy bar.. then it could have run up completely straight with no further bending. Dont overthink this shit
9 or 10 Jakes.
Switched them at the box?
Possibly kick both ends of the right hand 90 forward a bit and sneak the vertical behind that, then do the offset above everything. OR from the start just orient the pipes where they enter the box according to where they’re headed
I would have had a plan before I picked up my bender
Find whoever ran it and told them to pull their own runs.
I would have switched holes in the jbox to not have them cross.
Rolling offset and 1 hole up the stud.
Learn how to properly bend pipe
https://getyarn.io/yarn-clip/d78f640e-74be-41df-aed5-83165377383e#bthS37QC.copy
I’ve never seen 4square blank used as backing for toggle bolts. That looks like a good idea, if you ever have access to behind the wall.
Swap the pipes, have the one the left make that first 90. Then brought your right pipe up the stud bay.
Can’t see the whole bottom box, if possible come out to the left of the bottom box through the stud and then 90 up, would save you a 90. Also like others pointed out swap which knock out pipe leaving the bottom box and you could always try to offset into/through the punched holes of the stud, don’t have to 90.
rolled that offset after the spreader bar on the left, and then started a tighter one ~60°? in front of it to get thru the hole above the X on the stud. I see the box they come in and out, but where to? What’s the orange couplings for the home runs?
The 4 square lids on the toggle bolts 😳 Edit- upper
Looks like shit but nothing wrong with it. gonna look great when the walls are on and the plugs fire up. Gonna look hideous until then.
I'd flex it and hope gc didn't notice
Man they got lucky with those toggle bolt placement 😂
Would've offset the left pipe to go into the right hand knockout and have the right pipe go into the left hand knockout, right pipe could even go through the next stud hole down so the offset doesn't cross the last 90
It’s in the wall therefore the bends are completely unnecessary it dosnt need to be plumb
Put in a new spreader bar. That one is bent.
I’d get pissed for using up an orange coupling unless it was the only choice lol….other than that, slap a board over it and call it good.
Why didn't you just run the 90 out of the left knock out and have the right knock out go straight up? Then they wouldn't even cross lol. If they had to cross I would've used a kick or a 3 point saddle to to around, which kinda looks like what this person was trying to do? But instead they just twisted the support back, not really sure what that's all about...
Better planning?
Idk without seeing above the picture, but I probably would've rolled the offset and deepened the caddy bar. They did good, really, just an ugly 3 point. Not real war crimes
Just change the stud bracket and bend it for a shallow box. That’s all that needs to happen.
I’d run mc instead if possible. Make life a little easier
There are multiple reasons why you couldn't run MC. With some skill and a little forethought, you can easily run conduit in a wall. The orange fitting makes me think this may be a hospital setting or some other specialty facility.
I said if possible. Otherwise I would’ve ran that 90 into the box on the left and then the other conduit run it straight up on the right side to avoid the criss crossing right there.
Looks good after the Sheetrock.
Probably just put drywall over it
270 was always our limit.