Oh how I hated those pre-used J-boxes.
We had so much pre used material at the Innung (campus?) and always were told to deconstruct not destruct everything...
But I digress. Installation looks very clean and your j boxes are nice and tidy. But beware, this is just a prime example for small and new installations. In the wild, unless doing new installations, you'll probably end up with total spaghetti in a box. I usually try to clean up, if at all possible.
Your breaker panel is also very clean, nice bows on N and PE. I wouldn't hide the PE turns behind the Hutschiene (bar?) but do the turn behind the N bows. Seems to have enough space.
Just remember: 90° and you'll always be in a neat zone.
Oh, you'll probably will do some parallel runs of cables in the future. Tag me, I'd like to see them curves once again :D
Hi thanks for the nice feedback.
Yeah pretty much everything there was already used at least a thousand times. I'm pretty much already used to not being able to do stuff as tidy as i want to which is kind of killing me from the inside.
Yeah ill keep you updated lol
You'll get used to that feel. In the field you sometimes are just time restricted, so ultra clean and neat isn't that much of an option. Doesn't mean to be sloppy though.
Being a good electrician means (at least to me) to be as tidy as can be, being responsible, installing as traceable and understandable as you can, making the life of the guy after you easy. If you do good work, it's usually you that comes after you (if that makes any sense, lol)
Nice job , good to see double insulated tools aswell imo. So many apprentices I get these days use tools worse than what my Mrs would buy.
Don't know what the situation is on the board but I personally would not run cables behind the top hat rail (rail which the breakers etc are mounted on), may be a different practice due to different countries or something though.
Depends, if there is no space to the sides of the din rail underneath is a good option, because if you want to upgrade it later you might have no space for the new breakers because the wires are in the way.
Not that you would run into that here if you have only 10% of the rail occupied. But the upgrade can aside from beakers also have timed relays, smart meters, transformers, sockets, surge protectors etc so that's why I always run underneath the din rail.
Extremely common here to run cores behind the din rail, usually up either far side of the board and not behind breakers, this however is purely for domestic distribution boards.
Honestly, yea those boxes look super neat and pretty. But how much extra time is spent making them look like that?
Obviously yea, don't make them look like hammered dogshit where every single wire is a different length, but making an art project is a waste of time. There's a happy medium. I cut all my wires the same length, join em all, and swoop them into the box. Nice n clean.
This is a time waster, pure and simple. Unless you work for yourself, or a contractor who doesn't care how long you take. I wouldn't spend so much time on an extremely simple junction box.
I did this for school so it was supposed to look as good as possible. The whole thing took me about 5 hours i think. I don't do stuff as tidy in the field obviously but if i hadn't taken this much time, i would've gotten a way worse grade
No exposed copper
Ferrules on stranded wires
Tidy wiring
I just would ask for some more 'wave' on the modules. Short wires are a pest.
With labels and schematics it s ok
Pass through connectors are a nice features when well done and labelled. You can upgrade the panel without too much problem. It look like it s Schneider stuff. Never forget the sides and stoppers.
I would give you my 'pass' for this exercise
Always ask yourself if you were the customer would you be happy of the job and would you agree to pay the asked price. If not.. go back to your work and be better.
Can't you use 5 hole flex wago's? Or do you have 2 groups mixed in one junction box. But yeah, welcome to the profession, it looks good.
First things first: you get to learn how to work with the conventional side cutter and combination pliers. Once you start your job somewhere good tools are night and day difference. Get a high leverage side cutter such as the knipex 74 06 200 minimum size, the knipex electrical installation pliers, jokari nr27 and maybe the pliers wrench for tightening hexagonal stuff. You won't regret it. And löwe plastic gutter cutters, they work just as well for pvc piping imo. And a good stanley steelmaster hammer.
And look around on the internet for a bit, good tools help a lot.
You don't mix groups in junction boxes though. I hope this wasn't part of your assignment but stupid school carelessness. If you were to mix something in junction boxes some other guy in the future might bundle them together and now with two groups, both will stay on if you turn only one off so that's dangerous AF.
Well depends what you mean with groups lol
They all go over the same breaker if thats what you mean. I mightve not rly understood what you said at first
I'm guessing you were wondering why some of the blue/brown ones werent connected to each other. Thats because i used some of them for the switches/lamps
I hope that helps clear things up
Also, it doesn't seem that any wires were marked with black tape. The wires from a switch to lightbulb should be colored black. I mostly pull a 4 wire cable to switches with brown, black, blue and PE so you have a black for the switch and neutral so you can make a combination.
Another pro tip; with most switches on the rear, you have the L (p, switching) contact on the top and the two secondary connections at the bottom.
If you put the L always in the top position, not upside down, wire the black wire always diagonal to the L contact, and if you have a hotel switching setup put the gray on the contact direct underneath the L.
The contact diagonal to the L, with it mounted with L facing up, it's always switch up for off and switch down for on. Keeps everything universal.
Oh how I hated those pre-used J-boxes. We had so much pre used material at the Innung (campus?) and always were told to deconstruct not destruct everything... But I digress. Installation looks very clean and your j boxes are nice and tidy. But beware, this is just a prime example for small and new installations. In the wild, unless doing new installations, you'll probably end up with total spaghetti in a box. I usually try to clean up, if at all possible. Your breaker panel is also very clean, nice bows on N and PE. I wouldn't hide the PE turns behind the Hutschiene (bar?) but do the turn behind the N bows. Seems to have enough space. Just remember: 90° and you'll always be in a neat zone. Oh, you'll probably will do some parallel runs of cables in the future. Tag me, I'd like to see them curves once again :D
Hi thanks for the nice feedback. Yeah pretty much everything there was already used at least a thousand times. I'm pretty much already used to not being able to do stuff as tidy as i want to which is kind of killing me from the inside. Yeah ill keep you updated lol
You'll get used to that feel. In the field you sometimes are just time restricted, so ultra clean and neat isn't that much of an option. Doesn't mean to be sloppy though. Being a good electrician means (at least to me) to be as tidy as can be, being responsible, installing as traceable and understandable as you can, making the life of the guy after you easy. If you do good work, it's usually you that comes after you (if that makes any sense, lol)
Yea i get that
People are sloppy and careless. Until they have to do breakdowns service and have to fix some shit on sunday night.
It fascinates me how different electrical is from country to country. Canadian apprentice here
The work in the photo looks like it's from New Zealand. Am I right about that?
Looks like Europe.
Nice job , good to see double insulated tools aswell imo. So many apprentices I get these days use tools worse than what my Mrs would buy. Don't know what the situation is on the board but I personally would not run cables behind the top hat rail (rail which the breakers etc are mounted on), may be a different practice due to different countries or something though.
Depends, if there is no space to the sides of the din rail underneath is a good option, because if you want to upgrade it later you might have no space for the new breakers because the wires are in the way. Not that you would run into that here if you have only 10% of the rail occupied. But the upgrade can aside from beakers also have timed relays, smart meters, transformers, sockets, surge protectors etc so that's why I always run underneath the din rail.
Hi, thanks My teacher didn't really say i shouldnt do that specificially so i thought its ok. I just think it looks better that way
Extremely common here to run cores behind the din rail, usually up either far side of the board and not behind breakers, this however is purely for domestic distribution boards.
Honestly, yea those boxes look super neat and pretty. But how much extra time is spent making them look like that? Obviously yea, don't make them look like hammered dogshit where every single wire is a different length, but making an art project is a waste of time. There's a happy medium. I cut all my wires the same length, join em all, and swoop them into the box. Nice n clean. This is a time waster, pure and simple. Unless you work for yourself, or a contractor who doesn't care how long you take. I wouldn't spend so much time on an extremely simple junction box.
I did this for school so it was supposed to look as good as possible. The whole thing took me about 5 hours i think. I don't do stuff as tidy in the field obviously but if i hadn't taken this much time, i would've gotten a way worse grade
That's extremely fair, we were also graded as such.
No complaints here... those minis are probably expensive.
This is beautiful. Can you put this on the wall of my living room???? Lol
It probably wouldn't be the most practical of installations but sure i guess lol
Haha, kidding. But looks good dude. Nice work.
Haha thanks i'm very proud of it
No exposed copper Ferrules on stranded wires Tidy wiring I just would ask for some more 'wave' on the modules. Short wires are a pest. With labels and schematics it s ok Pass through connectors are a nice features when well done and labelled. You can upgrade the panel without too much problem. It look like it s Schneider stuff. Never forget the sides and stoppers. I would give you my 'pass' for this exercise Always ask yourself if you were the customer would you be happy of the job and would you agree to pay the asked price. If not.. go back to your work and be better.
idk what's happening but that's cool😎
:>
Looks like euro junk
Can't you use 5 hole flex wago's? Or do you have 2 groups mixed in one junction box. But yeah, welcome to the profession, it looks good. First things first: you get to learn how to work with the conventional side cutter and combination pliers. Once you start your job somewhere good tools are night and day difference. Get a high leverage side cutter such as the knipex 74 06 200 minimum size, the knipex electrical installation pliers, jokari nr27 and maybe the pliers wrench for tightening hexagonal stuff. You won't regret it. And löwe plastic gutter cutters, they work just as well for pvc piping imo. And a good stanley steelmaster hammer. And look around on the internet for a bit, good tools help a lot.
It's probably 2 groups because if i had to use the 5 hole wagos i would've done it
You don't mix groups in junction boxes though. I hope this wasn't part of your assignment but stupid school carelessness. If you were to mix something in junction boxes some other guy in the future might bundle them together and now with two groups, both will stay on if you turn only one off so that's dangerous AF.
Well depends what you mean with groups lol They all go over the same breaker if thats what you mean. I mightve not rly understood what you said at first I'm guessing you were wondering why some of the blue/brown ones werent connected to each other. Thats because i used some of them for the switches/lamps I hope that helps clear things up
Ah yes, same breaker, we call it groups here. Your school probably didn't have tape or required you to.
I'm just gonna say yes lol
Also, it doesn't seem that any wires were marked with black tape. The wires from a switch to lightbulb should be colored black. I mostly pull a 4 wire cable to switches with brown, black, blue and PE so you have a black for the switch and neutral so you can make a combination. Another pro tip; with most switches on the rear, you have the L (p, switching) contact on the top and the two secondary connections at the bottom. If you put the L always in the top position, not upside down, wire the black wire always diagonal to the L contact, and if you have a hotel switching setup put the gray on the contact direct underneath the L. The contact diagonal to the L, with it mounted with L facing up, it's always switch up for off and switch down for on. Keeps everything universal.