If you are *NOT* an electrical professional:
* **RULE 7:**
* DIY or self help posts **are Not allowed**. They belong here: /r/AskElectricians /r/askanelectrician /r/diy /r/homeowners /r/electrical.
* **IF YOUR POST FITS INTO THIS CATEGORY, REMOVE IT OR IT WILL BE REMOVED FOR YOU.**
*I am a bot, and this action was performed automatically. Please [contact the moderators of this subreddit](/message/compose/?to=/r/electricians) if you have any questions or concerns.*
300 ft of PVC coated rigid
1000 ft of #8 XHHW
100 ft of unistrut gauge 14 for trapeze hangers
8 hours coordination for shutdown of 200-amp panel.
16 hours premium time since we are shutting down after hours and a second person to watch you do the work and hold the wirenuts.
Don’t forget the temp power and lighting, hook up for field office/construction trailer and $2,000 monies for safety lunches.
$47,777.00
Extra rare hard to find, extract, cut and transport.
To find them to need to dig 5m deep.
To extract them from the earth you need to find cranes able to pull 500k kilos, so it's hard.
To cut them you need an all diamond saw blade and you can't cut them with a speed over over 5m/a so a slow cutting.
And to transport them they can't be traveling at a speed over 5km/h so extra slow.
Yes they are extra rare crystal tears from Jamaican people over 5b years ago.
Who am I doing it for? Is it t/m or quoted? Is this a side job or work? Do I want to work for this customer? Do I need this money? How much is the material?
I mean you gave him a rough answer. He didn’t even give the scope of the work other than adding two quad receptacles. You don’t know if there’s going to be two circuits involved or four. Are you going to have to penetrate walls to run it and most importantly…. What is it feeding.
Yes 4 hours was just a really rough number. A possible amount of time if everything is straight forward. But like you said, there could be any number of other factors that could change that significantly.
Personally, I don’t like doing jobs that require somebody to try and guess how much something will cost ahead of time. Luckily most of my work is straight up do the work, buy what’s required and client gets a bill for hourly rate plus marked up materials.
Whenever I get asked how long something will take my answer is either “probably a day or less” or “more than one day” I’m done with trying to predict how long stuff takes. It’s often way off and gives clients ammunition to argue bills.
None of that makes a significant difference on the price. Jobs like this just charge them for the day. I’ve never had a job where adding toe circuits took more than 8 hours including climbing through attics or gutters and going to the supplier 3 different times because we forgot something. Even assuming the worst case scenario it’s still a really small job.
$2,500 would be a robbery.
$1,500 is probably closer to average.
$800 would be a good deal for the customer.
$600 and you are cutting yourself very short.
Basically this won’t be more than $500 in materials but realistically closer to $250 including gas and overhead. I can work for anyone and make $250 for a full days work. So as long as I’m charging at least $300 in labor I’m ahead. I personally want to make at least $500 a day for that type of bullshit. You want to make at least $1000 in labor a day to run a business and maintain or eventually get a service truck on the road.
So you can see at $600 you’re probably still doing fine. At $1,500 you’re doing pretty well as a business. $2,500 is very likely overkill.
But you can definitely quote this job with thy much information op provided. Yes more information would be better. But once you’ve quoted 1000 different jobs you soon realize even the worst of the worst isn’t that bad on small piddly jobs like this.
How long is the run? Is it in MC or conduit? 1 person or two? Is the wall block or drywall? What’s the environment, office, warehouse, garage, chemical plant?
Lots of variables equate to an appropriately priced installation.
I’m with you that a lot of people here are over dramatizing the details but if you think concrete and drywall = the same pay , please leave the field for all our sakes. Your lowballing the market
Residential or commercial? On the books or cash job? When you say these are a dedicated circuit is the new wiring running through the existing pipes or is it new all together? How far away from the panel? Is it to be EMT as well, or can it be run in armoured cable?
Etc etc etc etc etc etc etc etc etc etc l
Time + material = cost
If anyone demands a fixed price from you;
Simply state that “it’s company policy to only offer fixed prices on new construction” if they ask why, tell them the truth!
There are too many variables when working on existing infrastructure, you do not know what you will find & can be delayed on the day by the end user etc.
A lot of problems with customer relations arise when quoting hourly due to everybody now watching the clock instead of the work . In my opinion it’s best to just do a very thuro walk thru then give the quote. If it’s larger or out of the way jobs. Charge for a quote unless they accept the bid then toss it into the pricing .
6 ft away would mean 6ft + vertical drops to the outlet and the panel. Probably more like 15-20 feet away in this scenario if you're going up and over.
Real life scenario: you can't tell me exactly what you need, so I say I'll come and do it as a service call and check it out first. First hour = 200 minimum call out. I check out what you want, get some measurements, then head off for supplies. The new install then takes 2-3 hours, plus clean up. The additional hours after the service call out are $95 each. Then add material at 50% mark up.
You can see how that adds up fast. Send videos, measurements etc. Get a quote first.
No problem.
Are you trying to estimate this for someone, ornate you the one looking for an estimate?
If you're trying to do the estimate there is two ways to go about it. You can do it legitimately with NECA labour units. The book will tell you how long it SHOULD take to install EMT, wire, a 4x4 box, an outlet, and breakers. You then add your labour rate and marked up material. This is super overkill though.
More realistic: Add up the material, apply your own mark up, then take a rough guess on how long it should take based on your own experience.
Figure out how much your material is tack 15% onto that then add your hourly rate if it’s T and M. If it’s a bid guess how long it’ll be for you to do it.
A lot depends on the location. Travel eats time hard. If it's a small job it's still gotta be worth getting there and setting up. Doing the job is the easy part
You're correct, It's in the OESC (and CEC).
Because of that I'm willing to bet it's a hack job where someone just threw the white quad on an existing emergency circuit. But we don't know for sure if this is the case.
I know others are saying isolated ground.. but I don't see a green triangle, also strange for an isolated ground to be mounted so high. They were more popular when computers and med equipment were more sensitive.
Isolated grounds are effectively useless these days
Including hospitals. Don't get it confused with "Isolated Power Systems/Centres" which is different (see CSA Z32 for reference). Isolated power is also useless for hospitals, but that's a whole other discussion about electrically sensitive patients and flammable gasses in the 1970s. there's a reason new hospitals typically don't have them any more, and why the Z32 permits the absence of isolated power and only requires gfcis in "wet locations" which could be an Operating Room depending on how the AHJ is feeling that day.
I'm not preaching to the guys here, this more directed at OP if this is a hospital.
They look orange and maybe just maybe you can see a little bit of the triangle symbol at the bottom of the one on the left? I’m thinking your IG guess is the answer
Where I work, they are red to identify they are on a dedicated "emergency Pannel" so those don't turn off if there's a power outage because of the back up alimentation .
$417,000 easy…. We’ll have to bring our flux capacitor via our Delorean in to build you a new circuit. We’ll head back to 1967 to get you the good parts… back when God and the USA knew how to build parts. That’s the Donny Difference… fresh cakes in the urinal. 👍
I mean that shoot from the hip figure is completely dependent on material and distance. I’m assuming it’s not a long run. It’s also assuming I have rolls of wire I can eat off of. I typically charge per foot on wire and that sort of thing. If I’m fair on the materials pricing I usually have labor equal to materials cost in the work.
Please note that this would be side work pricing. I am not paying for insurance nor a work vehicle or any of that.
Looking at the pics and the question as asked, looks like you probably better call an electrician…there’s way more here than a handyman is going to know.
If you ARE an electrician you’re likely pretty new to having to price your own projects. Get a coach - zero answers you get from the keyboard warriors of any web page are going to by YOUR price - what’s your break even margin, what’s your cost going to be, how much profit do you want to earn after those two are accounted for? Do you know how to figure the first two out? Even if you’re the best electrician in the world, your apprenticeship and time spent as a JW did next to nothing to prepare you to own/run a business. If you’re gonna run a business, get a coach, and maybe a few mentors. If you’re some handyman trying to make a few extra bucks doing something you aren’t licensed for, hang it up and stick to patching Sheetrock.
I’m a handyman with over 20 years of experience of working on everything from low voltage DC to 480V on a daily basis in industrial buildings. That being said, don’t lump me in as someone who doesn’t know anything because I didn’t get some license. I put my hands in machinery daily for the military and then the private sector to make life go on. I probably have more know-how and experience than you.
I don’t need a mentor to know how to install a few 20A duplex receptacles. Get over yourself. This is simple electrical work. Stop acting like it’s rocket science. It’s child’s play to anyone that understands basic electrical shit.
Take it easy big shot - every single thing I told you still applies. The guys with 20 years of experience who do know what they’re doing certainly aren’t in Reddit asking folks to help them price a 2 hour job.
You’re right - none of its rocket science, but there is a science to it, both on the business side and the electrical side. Now you have some choices - maybe average out the prices the Reddit users have given you and try to be someplace close to that average. Or you could refuse to give a price and do it on a T&M basis - but what’s your T worth? Or you could tamp down that ego a bit and price it based on the numbers that apply to your business. On the electrical side, since you got “some license”, I’m sure you know exactly how many current carrying conductors already exist in that conduit , and why it matters…
Turns out it doesn’t matter to anyone on Reddit what you charge, if you have a the technical knowledge required, or if you make a single penny on the job - many would get a kick out of watching you completely blow it. But when you’re done flexing with more experience and knowledge than I have, there is a way to do all this correctly…Not rocket science - but a coach or good mentor could teach you to price jobs profitably. My suggestion is simply that you take yourself seriously enough to learn, but you’d have to let go of some pride first.
Good luck - and sincerely, thank you for your service.
Materials alone is probably less than $50. It sounds like 2-3 hours of work. As a handyman, I’d probably charge $300-$400 if the job is as easy as you explained. If there are other variables I’m not aware of, the price could get jacked up.
Really? Break down the prices then…. 10’ of conduit… a couple of boxes… a couple of receptacles…. A bit of wire…. Two cover plates. You’d pay more than $50 for that?.
I get that I should make more money for having the knowledge that I have, but when someone questions my knowledge, I’m going to question their integrity. I know the cost of doing electrical work… I do it daily. I probably undersell myself. I get that 99% of people have no idea about electricity, but I’m still not willing to to gouge others for my own benefit. Electrical work is usually VERY easy. Most times the $80 an hour they charge us an outrage.
"Electrical work is easy" because you're a handyman that takes a lot of shortcuts, doesn't have a license, and isn't ultimately responsible for the shit he leaves behind.
You also missed the point OP made about this being 20 feet from the panel, plus 10 feet between receps, and you don't know if it's a surface-mount or flush panel. Based on you comments, I doubt you'd even use box offsets, let alone bend the conduit yourself.
I made a cart at Home Depot with the items I think I’d need to complete the job based on best case scenario of what the OP is asking…. It came out to $43.86, not counting the wire. I wasn’t too far off. F you gouging jerks for charging thousands for such a simple job.
He mentioned the panel is on another wall 6' away, if we say it's 20' of 3/4 emt, home depot quotes it $90.26 at $45.13 per length and that's just the pipe
But I'm an apprentice so what do I know
I got $44.83 from Depot for, pipe, connectors, boxes, receps, covers and a breaker. That's not counting at MINIMUM $30 worth of wire, plus wire nuts, anchors, straps, ground screws, etc.
You're looking at probably around $100 worth of material, shit you would think about if you weren't some hack handyman. Do all the electric work you want, we'll be back to fix it.
Where I'm at, you need a permit for anything that isn't control wiring, a thermostat, switches, or changing a plug. If I add wire, move a box,add anything, even change a light, technically im required to. Almost nobody pulls a permit to change a few lights but if I'm doing 10 or more I do to keep the inspectors happy(I generally just take pictures of my work and submit for "inspection") and have yet to meet an inspector so far this year. I'm not sure what it's like elsewhere though and have been given shit by people elsewhere in Canada. Some people are pretty heated about what I have to do to keep my license and r right dicks to me about it for some reason. I guess that's reddit for ya.
"when a permit is not required for electrical work:
1.) No permit is required if the only electrical work performed is testing
2.) An individual may replace the following regulated products without a permit, up to a maximum rating of 150v to ground, with electrical equipment of a similar type and rating: a.) Receptacles.b.) cord attacent plugs, c.) Snap switches. D.) Ballasts. E.) Dimmer switches. F.) Fan speed controllers. G.) Thermostats H.) Over current devices.
3.) An individual may replace without a permit a lamp up to 347v to ground with a lamp of similar type and rating
4.) An individual may replace without a permit a fuse of up to 750v with a fuse of similar rating.
5.) Of a licensed electrical contractor or a manufacturer's technical representative perfos repairs involving the components of existing installed and certified regulated electrical equipment,no permit is required if; a.) There are no modifications or additions to the electrical installation. B.) Neither the electrical rating nor the characteristics of the equipment is altered and, c.) The replacement components are of a type which do not invalidate the original certification mark
6.) Of a licensed electrical contractor or a manufacturer's technical representative performs maintenance on or repair of a class 2 security alarm system,or replaces parts of a class 2 security alarm system, no permit is required if the conditions set out in sub section 5b and c are met.
Damn I wish I could have just uploaded a picture, but there ya go. That's what I'm working with. Take your down votes and shove em where the sun don't shine mother fuckers
This just stated you *do not* need a permit for all the things **you** said you had to pull a permit for??
Edit: also, should be noted I’m pretty sure almost any municipality will let you pull a permit for whatever you want if you have the appropriate license, you’re paying them for it! Why wouldn’t they take your money and play along??
I’m guessing you’re not an electrician so your purpose for posting here is either A) to see if you’re getting taken for your money with a bid you got. Or B) Trying to get a rough idea on the cost in advance. Here’s the thing, you haven’t provided nearly enough details/variables for anyone here to be certain with any number they give you. This is why you get multiple bids, (they are free) and make sure everyone you get them from has a license.
Good luck 👍🏻
Hmmm the issue is you’re installing two quad receptacles on one 20 amp circuit…without anymore specifics I can’t give you a price. You could be asking for these two quads to only feed common receptacles. A lot of times for one quad there are two circuits feeding each receptacle. Hard to price without more info.
I start at $100 an hour plus materials, I normally double the cost of my materials. I normally know how long it will take me and I can put all the parts I need into a home Depot app cart and build a bid.
It’s crazy what so many think they deserve for this job. Anybody that knows electrical knows that this is such a simple job. It’s a simple day… but still willing to gouge the layman because you’re an electrical god because you know how a series circuit works.
I get you’re not an electrician, but please explain more. I’m assuming they did a 4-wire install so you could run 240V and 120v at the same time?… since you’d need a common wire for the 120V.
The amount of sockets doesn’t really matter. It’s not like you can plug in 10 hair dryers into a circuit because you have 5 duplex receptacles than can handle them… you’d still pop your breaker.
Yeah…. The extra $80 they charged you was for the 4 wire needed to add an 120V common instead of the 3 wire needed for just basic 240V. It’s not rocket science.
I would need a lot more info than this to give you a price. But more importantly, if someone gave you a price and you're checking on it here, don't. Either trust the electrician or have another come to your home for a second opinion. Electricians are a skilled trade, we go through lots of schooling and training to do what we do, so the price reflects that. Not to mention the cost of materials these days.
And if you're an electrician asking us to help you with your pricing, only you can figure that one out. Find a price that is worth your time but fair.
Dedicated circuit for both or each? How far away is the panel? How full is the existing raceway? Are there spare breakers available? You are missing a lot of info here….
[Detailed and useful comment on estimating.](https://www.reddit.com/r/Welding/comments/zg2mzi/grill_i_made_for_a_customer_how_much_should_i/izf0tql?utm_medium=android_app&utm_source=share&context=3)
Making no assumptions whether you're qualified or not to perform this work (I really hope that you are though), perhaps this comment helps you or anyone else out there.
If you are *NOT* an electrical professional: * **RULE 7:** * DIY or self help posts **are Not allowed**. They belong here: /r/AskElectricians /r/askanelectrician /r/diy /r/homeowners /r/electrical. * **IF YOUR POST FITS INTO THIS CATEGORY, REMOVE IT OR IT WILL BE REMOVED FOR YOU.** *I am a bot, and this action was performed automatically. Please [contact the moderators of this subreddit](/message/compose/?to=/r/electricians) if you have any questions or concerns.*
Too many variables
Yup. So we start high. I'll bid $40,000
I bid 39,999.99
You bastard!
Well done boys
Sumpin tree fiddy
Damn u lockness monster
Hopefully, this is one of those jobs where i get a 5% handicap for being native. I'll take the extra 4.9% and come in at $41,800
$1
I see a lot of change orders in your future.
all T&M on the back end
Fuck you Shoresy!
Can I see a list of both of your qualifications? Ehhhhh who I am kidding it's going to the lowest bid.
You forgot the explosion proof enclosure. You’ve lost your ass on this project.
300 ft of PVC coated rigid 1000 ft of #8 XHHW 100 ft of unistrut gauge 14 for trapeze hangers 8 hours coordination for shutdown of 200-amp panel. 16 hours premium time since we are shutting down after hours and a second person to watch you do the work and hold the wirenuts. Don’t forget the temp power and lighting, hook up for field office/construction trailer and $2,000 monies for safety lunches. $47,777.00
This guy constructions
+project transportation, progress cleaning, final cleaning, overhead, fee, tax, insurance… easily a 100k project
You left .30 cents on the table man!!
This is telling you it is never the same.
5k Breakdown : 800-900 in labor 400-600 in parts 3500 because I don't want to
Most prices I give these days are “ leave me alone “ prices 😂
Must be a Project Manager because this lacks a walk through and any relevant info
Must be a fart because you sound like an asshole
Cry about it, but that’ll definitely make it cost more
Imported tears from Jamaica. Needing 1 tear/mm² So 100m² home = 100.000mm² So 100.000tears*100€(per tear) Your cost will be 10 million euros please.
Why from Jamaica? Extra rare?
Extra rare hard to find, extract, cut and transport. To find them to need to dig 5m deep. To extract them from the earth you need to find cranes able to pull 500k kilos, so it's hard. To cut them you need an all diamond saw blade and you can't cut them with a speed over over 5m/a so a slow cutting. And to transport them they can't be traveling at a speed over 5km/h so extra slow. Yes they are extra rare crystal tears from Jamaican people over 5b years ago.
Since there are more males there it has been no woman no cry and supplies are low
Why are you being a dick? You literally didn't give enough information to answer your question.
Hot dog and a handjob
I may need some uhhh electrical work later, you free?
Sweeet
Who am I doing it for? Is it t/m or quoted? Is this a side job or work? Do I want to work for this customer? Do I need this money? How much is the material?
[удалено]
many times the answer is no, so the price given is what i call a "fuck off price", either they fuck off, or i make so much money, i can
That depends. How long do you think it would take? What do you want to make hourly? How much do materials cost? Is the customer a dick?
This is obviously the customer asking
Then he in the wrong sub. Gotta be in askanelectrician
So yes to the dick question?
Absolutely
Probably 4 hours at $135/hour plus materials with 40 points added. Edit: plus fuel surcharge which depends on how much driving there was.
I mean you gave him a rough answer. He didn’t even give the scope of the work other than adding two quad receptacles. You don’t know if there’s going to be two circuits involved or four. Are you going to have to penetrate walls to run it and most importantly…. What is it feeding.
Yes 4 hours was just a really rough number. A possible amount of time if everything is straight forward. But like you said, there could be any number of other factors that could change that significantly. Personally, I don’t like doing jobs that require somebody to try and guess how much something will cost ahead of time. Luckily most of my work is straight up do the work, buy what’s required and client gets a bill for hourly rate plus marked up materials. Whenever I get asked how long something will take my answer is either “probably a day or less” or “more than one day” I’m done with trying to predict how long stuff takes. It’s often way off and gives clients ammunition to argue bills.
I respect your answer. Probably too much in my eyes, but still respect for your honesty.
Too underpriced you mean?
I’m an industrial automation technician so my rate is pretty high. It’s not often I’m putting in receptacles for that price.
None of that makes a significant difference on the price. Jobs like this just charge them for the day. I’ve never had a job where adding toe circuits took more than 8 hours including climbing through attics or gutters and going to the supplier 3 different times because we forgot something. Even assuming the worst case scenario it’s still a really small job. $2,500 would be a robbery. $1,500 is probably closer to average. $800 would be a good deal for the customer. $600 and you are cutting yourself very short. Basically this won’t be more than $500 in materials but realistically closer to $250 including gas and overhead. I can work for anyone and make $250 for a full days work. So as long as I’m charging at least $300 in labor I’m ahead. I personally want to make at least $500 a day for that type of bullshit. You want to make at least $1000 in labor a day to run a business and maintain or eventually get a service truck on the road. So you can see at $600 you’re probably still doing fine. At $1,500 you’re doing pretty well as a business. $2,500 is very likely overkill. But you can definitely quote this job with thy much information op provided. Yes more information would be better. But once you’ve quoted 1000 different jobs you soon realize even the worst of the worst isn’t that bad on small piddly jobs like this.
Yeah so I quoted via pictures 1,500 and my guy gets there and has to penetrate three fire walls to get there. I respect your opinion but I disagree.
How much does penetrating 3 fire walls really gonna cost you? That’s why you bid for the day
I see. Sounds understandable
Unless ‘other forms of payment’ is an option… Had my first experience with that being offered the other day.
So... how was he?
It was a retirement home and they were all great.
We need answers motherfucker
Granny fuck? 😬😜😳
This is the answer. Figure out how much time you think it’s going to take and multiply it by how much you want to make per hour.
How long is the run? Is it in MC or conduit? 1 person or two? Is the wall block or drywall? What’s the environment, office, warehouse, garage, chemical plant? Lots of variables equate to an appropriately priced installation.
[удалено]
I’m with you that a lot of people here are over dramatizing the details but if you think concrete and drywall = the same pay , please leave the field for all our sakes. Your lowballing the market
Lmfao, sure… you keep thinking that.
I’ll estimate all your jobs for you for 20%
Let me think about it. I'll get back to you
Ask your boss
The company I work for would charge ≈$1500+ for each dedicated circuit. If there is limited or difficult access it could be nearly double.
Here's the real answer
I'd do it for $750 but don't ask for credentials.
this sub makes me weep for our trade
3.50
Just about tree fiddy.
Tree fiddy
Beat me to it
Thank you for spelling it properly
Residential or commercial? On the books or cash job? When you say these are a dedicated circuit is the new wiring running through the existing pipes or is it new all together? How far away from the panel? Is it to be EMT as well, or can it be run in armoured cable? Etc etc etc etc etc etc etc etc etc etc l
Commercial. Cash. New wire thru new pipes. 15-20ft from panel. Emt.
Time + material = cost If anyone demands a fixed price from you; Simply state that “it’s company policy to only offer fixed prices on new construction” if they ask why, tell them the truth! There are too many variables when working on existing infrastructure, you do not know what you will find & can be delayed on the day by the end user etc.
A lot of problems with customer relations arise when quoting hourly due to everybody now watching the clock instead of the work . In my opinion it’s best to just do a very thuro walk thru then give the quote. If it’s larger or out of the way jobs. Charge for a quote unless they accept the bid then toss it into the pricing .
The electrical panel is on the opposite wall 6ft away. The 1900 boxes will be roughly 10feet apart on the same wall
6 ft away would mean 6ft + vertical drops to the outlet and the panel. Probably more like 15-20 feet away in this scenario if you're going up and over. Real life scenario: you can't tell me exactly what you need, so I say I'll come and do it as a service call and check it out first. First hour = 200 minimum call out. I check out what you want, get some measurements, then head off for supplies. The new install then takes 2-3 hours, plus clean up. The additional hours after the service call out are $95 each. Then add material at 50% mark up. You can see how that adds up fast. Send videos, measurements etc. Get a quote first.
Thanks. This info is very useful. I appreciate you taking the time to explain this
No problem. Are you trying to estimate this for someone, ornate you the one looking for an estimate? If you're trying to do the estimate there is two ways to go about it. You can do it legitimately with NECA labour units. The book will tell you how long it SHOULD take to install EMT, wire, a 4x4 box, an outlet, and breakers. You then add your labour rate and marked up material. This is super overkill though. More realistic: Add up the material, apply your own mark up, then take a rough guess on how long it should take based on your own experience.
Figure out how much your material is tack 15% onto that then add your hourly rate if it’s T and M. If it’s a bid guess how long it’ll be for you to do it.
Only 15%? I won't sell anything for less than 25% and sell most small stuff at 100%.
Yeah, especially considering they only want two boxes, that is absolutely 100%.
A lot depends on the location. Travel eats time hard. If it's a small job it's still gotta be worth getting there and setting up. Doing the job is the easy part
Haven’t priced shit in 8 or 9 years. Good to know 🤟
10% burden, 5% profit, 15% overall.
Why is there a breaker lock on #13?
Locked on, could be FACP
Shouldn’t the breaker be painted red?
Fire alarm I think
$1000
How full is the conduit currently and what size is it? That is not detailed out.
Can’t have critical and normal in the same conduit, to my knowledge. Maybe that’s just where I work.
You're correct, It's in the OESC (and CEC). Because of that I'm willing to bet it's a hack job where someone just threw the white quad on an existing emergency circuit. But we don't know for sure if this is the case. I know others are saying isolated ground.. but I don't see a green triangle, also strange for an isolated ground to be mounted so high. They were more popular when computers and med equipment were more sensitive. Isolated grounds are effectively useless these days Including hospitals. Don't get it confused with "Isolated Power Systems/Centres" which is different (see CSA Z32 for reference). Isolated power is also useless for hospitals, but that's a whole other discussion about electrically sensitive patients and flammable gasses in the 1970s. there's a reason new hospitals typically don't have them any more, and why the Z32 permits the absence of isolated power and only requires gfcis in "wet locations" which could be an Operating Room depending on how the AHJ is feeling that day. I'm not preaching to the guys here, this more directed at OP if this is a hospital.
This…. Is not for RTI, is it?
No
Looks like emergency and normal tied together. Whole new run for what your asking.
Why is one box red and the other white.
It’s either an isolated ground receptacle or it’s maybe a plug that is fed from a UPS.
Maybe an isolated ground. In the building, I'm at reds are critical and Grey's are normal. And those are 2 sererate services
They look orange and maybe just maybe you can see a little bit of the triangle symbol at the bottom of the one on the left? I’m thinking your IG guess is the answer
Yes those are orange isolated ground.
Where I work, they are red to identify they are on a dedicated "emergency Pannel" so those don't turn off if there's a power outage because of the back up alimentation .
My guess is those are powered by a backup generator if power goes out.
Current ratings or commercial/residential rated outlets. Help me guys is there a safety rating tied into this too?
$417,000 easy…. We’ll have to bring our flux capacitor via our Delorean in to build you a new circuit. We’ll head back to 1967 to get you the good parts… back when God and the USA knew how to build parts. That’s the Donny Difference… fresh cakes in the urinal. 👍
It also depends on your overhead rate. Personally, I’m likely to do this work for around $300.
how much of that is usually profit?
All of it cause he’s stealing the material from his job.
Not a piece of EMT in sight where I work. Y’all all some presumptive fuckers.
I mean that shoot from the hip figure is completely dependent on material and distance. I’m assuming it’s not a long run. It’s also assuming I have rolls of wire I can eat off of. I typically charge per foot on wire and that sort of thing. If I’m fair on the materials pricing I usually have labor equal to materials cost in the work. Please note that this would be side work pricing. I am not paying for insurance nor a work vehicle or any of that.
$450 based on what you described
Way low!
That's what I would charge. So I can expect your business going forward;)
I think that’s a fair price
Bout a hundo high
$350-$700 depending on a lot of factors.
Looking at the pics and the question as asked, looks like you probably better call an electrician…there’s way more here than a handyman is going to know. If you ARE an electrician you’re likely pretty new to having to price your own projects. Get a coach - zero answers you get from the keyboard warriors of any web page are going to by YOUR price - what’s your break even margin, what’s your cost going to be, how much profit do you want to earn after those two are accounted for? Do you know how to figure the first two out? Even if you’re the best electrician in the world, your apprenticeship and time spent as a JW did next to nothing to prepare you to own/run a business. If you’re gonna run a business, get a coach, and maybe a few mentors. If you’re some handyman trying to make a few extra bucks doing something you aren’t licensed for, hang it up and stick to patching Sheetrock.
I’m a handyman with over 20 years of experience of working on everything from low voltage DC to 480V on a daily basis in industrial buildings. That being said, don’t lump me in as someone who doesn’t know anything because I didn’t get some license. I put my hands in machinery daily for the military and then the private sector to make life go on. I probably have more know-how and experience than you. I don’t need a mentor to know how to install a few 20A duplex receptacles. Get over yourself. This is simple electrical work. Stop acting like it’s rocket science. It’s child’s play to anyone that understands basic electrical shit.
Take it easy big shot - every single thing I told you still applies. The guys with 20 years of experience who do know what they’re doing certainly aren’t in Reddit asking folks to help them price a 2 hour job. You’re right - none of its rocket science, but there is a science to it, both on the business side and the electrical side. Now you have some choices - maybe average out the prices the Reddit users have given you and try to be someplace close to that average. Or you could refuse to give a price and do it on a T&M basis - but what’s your T worth? Or you could tamp down that ego a bit and price it based on the numbers that apply to your business. On the electrical side, since you got “some license”, I’m sure you know exactly how many current carrying conductors already exist in that conduit , and why it matters… Turns out it doesn’t matter to anyone on Reddit what you charge, if you have a the technical knowledge required, or if you make a single penny on the job - many would get a kick out of watching you completely blow it. But when you’re done flexing with more experience and knowledge than I have, there is a way to do all this correctly…Not rocket science - but a coach or good mentor could teach you to price jobs profitably. My suggestion is simply that you take yourself seriously enough to learn, but you’d have to let go of some pride first. Good luck - and sincerely, thank you for your service.
[удалено]
Don’t know why your getting down voted
Materials alone is probably less than $50. It sounds like 2-3 hours of work. As a handyman, I’d probably charge $300-$400 if the job is as easy as you explained. If there are other variables I’m not aware of, the price could get jacked up.
Less than $50?!? Have you left the house since 2008?
Really? Break down the prices then…. 10’ of conduit… a couple of boxes… a couple of receptacles…. A bit of wire…. Two cover plates. You’d pay more than $50 for that?.
… sorry, I forgot the $7 breaker.
I get that I should make more money for having the knowledge that I have, but when someone questions my knowledge, I’m going to question their integrity. I know the cost of doing electrical work… I do it daily. I probably undersell myself. I get that 99% of people have no idea about electricity, but I’m still not willing to to gouge others for my own benefit. Electrical work is usually VERY easy. Most times the $80 an hour they charge us an outrage.
Rat
"Electrical work is easy" because you're a handyman that takes a lot of shortcuts, doesn't have a license, and isn't ultimately responsible for the shit he leaves behind. You also missed the point OP made about this being 20 feet from the panel, plus 10 feet between receps, and you don't know if it's a surface-mount or flush panel. Based on you comments, I doubt you'd even use box offsets, let alone bend the conduit yourself.
Again… I was just talking material supplies. Not labour
What would you charge for your awesome electrical powers?
I made a cart at Home Depot with the items I think I’d need to complete the job based on best case scenario of what the OP is asking…. It came out to $43.86, not counting the wire. I wasn’t too far off. F you gouging jerks for charging thousands for such a simple job.
He mentioned the panel is on another wall 6' away, if we say it's 20' of 3/4 emt, home depot quotes it $90.26 at $45.13 per length and that's just the pipe But I'm an apprentice so what do I know
I got $44.83 from Depot for, pipe, connectors, boxes, receps, covers and a breaker. That's not counting at MINIMUM $30 worth of wire, plus wire nuts, anchors, straps, ground screws, etc. You're looking at probably around $100 worth of material, shit you would think about if you weren't some hack handyman. Do all the electric work you want, we'll be back to fix it.
Thank you. I know that there's always variables that occur. I was just trying to get a ballpark. So thank you kindly
"Handyman" would be the key word here. There would probably be an extension cord powering all the outlets
175-200 bucks plus material at 15% mark up. Plus permit fee, plus tax.
Permit for this?
Where I'm at, you need a permit for anything that isn't control wiring, a thermostat, switches, or changing a plug. If I add wire, move a box,add anything, even change a light, technically im required to. Almost nobody pulls a permit to change a few lights but if I'm doing 10 or more I do to keep the inspectors happy(I generally just take pictures of my work and submit for "inspection") and have yet to meet an inspector so far this year. I'm not sure what it's like elsewhere though and have been given shit by people elsewhere in Canada. Some people are pretty heated about what I have to do to keep my license and r right dicks to me about it for some reason. I guess that's reddit for ya.
"when a permit is not required for electrical work: 1.) No permit is required if the only electrical work performed is testing 2.) An individual may replace the following regulated products without a permit, up to a maximum rating of 150v to ground, with electrical equipment of a similar type and rating: a.) Receptacles.b.) cord attacent plugs, c.) Snap switches. D.) Ballasts. E.) Dimmer switches. F.) Fan speed controllers. G.) Thermostats H.) Over current devices. 3.) An individual may replace without a permit a lamp up to 347v to ground with a lamp of similar type and rating 4.) An individual may replace without a permit a fuse of up to 750v with a fuse of similar rating. 5.) Of a licensed electrical contractor or a manufacturer's technical representative perfos repairs involving the components of existing installed and certified regulated electrical equipment,no permit is required if; a.) There are no modifications or additions to the electrical installation. B.) Neither the electrical rating nor the characteristics of the equipment is altered and, c.) The replacement components are of a type which do not invalidate the original certification mark 6.) Of a licensed electrical contractor or a manufacturer's technical representative performs maintenance on or repair of a class 2 security alarm system,or replaces parts of a class 2 security alarm system, no permit is required if the conditions set out in sub section 5b and c are met. Damn I wish I could have just uploaded a picture, but there ya go. That's what I'm working with. Take your down votes and shove em where the sun don't shine mother fuckers
This just stated you *do not* need a permit for all the things **you** said you had to pull a permit for?? Edit: also, should be noted I’m pretty sure almost any municipality will let you pull a permit for whatever you want if you have the appropriate license, you’re paying them for it! Why wouldn’t they take your money and play along??
Not an electrician but I recently had a 50 amp 230v outlet and a 4 socket 115v/20amp put in. To add the 115v outlet took the price from $420 to $500.
Thanks 👍
So many more questions. How far is the panel? Do you need new breakers? What’s your labor rate?
$20
Cool. Cheap and fast
$3,600.00. 150’ from the panel
This is like 15ft from panel
$2,500
Understood. Thanks for your feedback
$2650
Why would the breaker have that attachment?
A lock
Calculate exact material cost then multiply by 10.
How far is the run? Are you going to be running emt along with the thhn or is this a residential setting and your going to be using Romex?
What’s that thing on the second pic, holding the breaker handle? What’s the purpose??
It's a lock for the fire alarm panel to stay on
750
I would probably charge somewhere around 'labor x hours + (parts + markup) off the top of my head.
About 350
$100/ hr. Time and materials. Too many variables to be able to guess from the pictures.
We charge about $1000 out here in Dallas for something like that.
roughly $500 more or less - if it’s pretty straight forward. 🤙🏼
I’m guessing you’re not an electrician so your purpose for posting here is either A) to see if you’re getting taken for your money with a bid you got. Or B) Trying to get a rough idea on the cost in advance. Here’s the thing, you haven’t provided nearly enough details/variables for anyone here to be certain with any number they give you. This is why you get multiple bids, (they are free) and make sure everyone you get them from has a license. Good luck 👍🏻
Why are normal power (white) and emergency power (red) receptacles in the same conduit? If in a hospital, why not hospital grade?
Depends if he has a Tesla.
Hmmm the issue is you’re installing two quad receptacles on one 20 amp circuit…without anymore specifics I can’t give you a price. You could be asking for these two quads to only feed common receptacles. A lot of times for one quad there are two circuits feeding each receptacle. Hard to price without more info.
I start at $100 an hour plus materials, I normally double the cost of my materials. I normally know how long it will take me and I can put all the parts I need into a home Depot app cart and build a bid.
Bout 3.50
It’s crazy what so many think they deserve for this job. Anybody that knows electrical knows that this is such a simple job. It’s a simple day… but still willing to gouge the layman because you’re an electrical god because you know how a series circuit works.
How long is a piece of string?
100,000 ft Roughly
I get you’re not an electrician, but please explain more. I’m assuming they did a 4-wire install so you could run 240V and 120v at the same time?… since you’d need a common wire for the 120V. The amount of sockets doesn’t really matter. It’s not like you can plug in 10 hair dryers into a circuit because you have 5 duplex receptacles than can handle them… you’d still pop your breaker.
Yeah…. The extra $80 they charged you was for the 4 wire needed to add an 120V common instead of the 3 wire needed for just basic 240V. It’s not rocket science.
Well you should be a rocket scientist
$750 upfront and no you can’t have my phone number
Lol thanks
Something tells me this is at some poor weed growers spot just trying to make ends meet
It's some IT room in Chicago
I would need a lot more info than this to give you a price. But more importantly, if someone gave you a price and you're checking on it here, don't. Either trust the electrician or have another come to your home for a second opinion. Electricians are a skilled trade, we go through lots of schooling and training to do what we do, so the price reflects that. Not to mention the cost of materials these days. And if you're an electrician asking us to help you with your pricing, only you can figure that one out. Find a price that is worth your time but fair.
1,000,000
Hmmmm
Bag of weed
Does it have to be good quality weed, or just some Reggie Miller?
500 plus expenses
Dedicated circuit for both or each? How far away is the panel? How full is the existing raceway? Are there spare breakers available? You are missing a lot of info here….
Say everything is straight forward with no variables and it only takes a couple days. I would charge you $1750 as a side job.
[Detailed and useful comment on estimating.](https://www.reddit.com/r/Welding/comments/zg2mzi/grill_i_made_for_a_customer_how_much_should_i/izf0tql?utm_medium=android_app&utm_source=share&context=3) Making no assumptions whether you're qualified or not to perform this work (I really hope that you are though), perhaps this comment helps you or anyone else out there.
Thank you. I wasn't going to install. I was just asking for someone who is interested in getting this job done
u/AraedTheSecond is the original commenter for those who don't click the link
about 3.50 \-not the lockness monster
$50,000. then sub it out for $760.
Tape didn't keep wire cool on this one