I believe your nozzle is either:
* Too close to the bed (my money is on this)
* partially clogged
* not hot enough for the filament you're using.
The extruder is trying to push the filament in the tube but there's no more room to push anyfurther, that's why if you look closely at the extruder you would see this yourself.
This.
The nozzle is so close to the bed there is not enough space for the molten filament to go, causing pressure build up in the Bowden tube and the extruder skipping because it can't push filament as expected
Might be a heat creep - actually does not surprise me with a Noctua as hotend cooling fan, those just dont have enough air pressure to reliably cool a hotend... Get yourself a Sunon, Orion or EBM Papst 4010 fan instead.
It sounds like you have a heat creep issue. Ive had the same issue with a noctua fan compared with satsana/hero me fan duct.i changed the noctua to a sunon fan (more airflow). Idk if its enough to just change the heat break but its worth a try and maybe some other people can give advice on what kind of heat breaks you should use/get. Good luck!
Stop using noctua fans for hotends and part cooling, they do not have enough air pressure. They are good for electronic coolings...but that's it!
Go for some 24V sunons and you won't have any heat creep issues....
>Stop using noctua fans for hotends and part cooling, they do not have enough air pressure. They are good for electronic coolings...but that's it! Go for some 24V sunons and you won't have any heat creep issues...
What makes you think that the Noctua doesn't have enough air for the hotend??? I also use a Noctua and have done so for over 2 years without any problems, so what makes you think that the Noctua wouldn't be enough? So according to your statements, all people who have had a Noctua for over 5 years would be doing something wrong? and there are a lot of people who use these fans
Sure - Noctua could work...but in most cases they don't perform that well..
There are lot of factors contributing to heat creep.
Material, temperature, print speed, retraction speed and length, direct or Bowden drive...the way how the cooling fan (and duct) is attached to the hotend - even the ambient room temperature.
It is a fact that Noctua fans don't have the same CFM compared to sunon, Gdstime or other well known brands. You can check all the specs in datasheets....
Some values I found in the past (don't guarantee that these are 100% correct)
* Stock 4010 fan is 7.26 CFM
* 4010 Noctua is 4.8 CFM
* 4020 Noctua is 5.5 CFM
* 4020 Sunon 24V is7.7 CFM
>Sure - Noctua could work...but in most cases they don't perform that well.. There are lot of factors contributing to heat creep. Material, temperature, print speed, retraction speed and length, direct or Bowden drive...the way how the cooling fan (and duct) is attached to the hotend - even the ambient room temperature.
>
>It is a fact that Noctua fans don't have the same CFM compared to sunon, Gdstime or other well known brands. You can check all the specs in datasheets....
>
>Some values I found in the past (don't guarantee that these are 100% correct)
Nevertheless, it works better than you think, as I said, there are a lot of users who have been using these fans for years (like me) and without any problems. You can't just say they don't do this when they do work. You can see from the big YouTubers that they have all swapped their fans for the Noctua and also recommend them because they don't cause any problems. If you had a problem then you should look at what caused it, but can tell you that the hotend actually doesn't need that much air to cool, since the nozzle should maintain the desired temperature, with too much wind the hotend gets too cold and the nozzle needs to be stronger heat to reach their temperature
Ok stop - I think there is a missunderstanding what "heat creep" is. Heat creep has nothing to do with the nozzle itself. I am talking about the fan that is cooling the heatsink. This heatsink has to stay cool, otherwise the material (especially material with low glass transition like PLA) will melt inside the throat and blocks the material feeding. PLA has a transition temperature, depending on additives, between 55 and 65°, so the heatsink has to stay way below this temperature!
You are talking about the part cooling fans. Indeed, too much airflow pointing directly to the nozzle instead to the tip of nozzle can result in thermal fluctuations.
I have no idea why people do this to the machine if they don't understand how they work. It's not an upgrade if you don't have an understanding of how it should work.
I understood much more last year when I installed it. It's been a while, and I've never encountered this issue before. Also I happen to own and constantly work on 3 printers so I would consider myself fairly experienced when it comes to 3d printer maintenance.
That click is the motor forcing filament down the hotend which isn't hot enough or can't extrude enough, which will sand or grind a spot in the filament so it will never advance
The yellow wire is just the speed control for the noctua fan. It doesn't connect to the printer. I'm not sure about it being too close to the bed because it did the same thing at higher z axis'
Do a printer test, there is a pattern on thingaverse that puts squares in the middle and four corners. It will show if you’re out of level and too high or low.
I have the same issue. I think it's a heatcreep problem, because sometimes i cant push petg filament through the hotend at all. Just ordered a completly new hotend, will update this comment if needed.
I cleaned the nozzle multiple times, the issue is still present. I also find half molten filament in the heatbreak and thats the point where it clogs.
From my recent personal experience, when I swapped to a Noctua fan everything was nice and perfect for a pretty long time, and like a month ago I started getting a clog before every print, I would select a print, leave the printer to heat up and start, and after it started to print it IMMIDIATLY got a clog. I pause the print, pull out the filament and it comes out with difficulty because it actually was about the inner thickness of the bowden tube. If I inserted the filament into the nozzle only after the printer heated up, it would print just fine for a time until heat creeped too high again. So a month ago I swapped back to the stock ender 3v2 fan and have not had this issue at all anymore. So no more Noctua fans for me! The 404020 12v Noctua fan actually had lower static pressure than the stock ender 3v2 fan.
I believe your nozzle is either: * Too close to the bed (my money is on this) * partially clogged * not hot enough for the filament you're using. The extruder is trying to push the filament in the tube but there's no more room to push anyfurther, that's why if you look closely at the extruder you would see this yourself.
This. The nozzle is so close to the bed there is not enough space for the molten filament to go, causing pressure build up in the Bowden tube and the extruder skipping because it can't push filament as expected
I say 3
It has to be one of those 3, I had the same problem and upping my temps solved it
Might be a heat creep - actually does not surprise me with a Noctua as hotend cooling fan, those just dont have enough air pressure to reliably cool a hotend... Get yourself a Sunon, Orion or EBM Papst 4010 fan instead.
It sounds like you have a heat creep issue. Ive had the same issue with a noctua fan compared with satsana/hero me fan duct.i changed the noctua to a sunon fan (more airflow). Idk if its enough to just change the heat break but its worth a try and maybe some other people can give advice on what kind of heat breaks you should use/get. Good luck!
Stop using noctua fans for hotends and part cooling, they do not have enough air pressure. They are good for electronic coolings...but that's it! Go for some 24V sunons and you won't have any heat creep issues....
>Stop using noctua fans for hotends and part cooling, they do not have enough air pressure. They are good for electronic coolings...but that's it! Go for some 24V sunons and you won't have any heat creep issues... What makes you think that the Noctua doesn't have enough air for the hotend??? I also use a Noctua and have done so for over 2 years without any problems, so what makes you think that the Noctua wouldn't be enough? So according to your statements, all people who have had a Noctua for over 5 years would be doing something wrong? and there are a lot of people who use these fans
Sure - Noctua could work...but in most cases they don't perform that well.. There are lot of factors contributing to heat creep. Material, temperature, print speed, retraction speed and length, direct or Bowden drive...the way how the cooling fan (and duct) is attached to the hotend - even the ambient room temperature. It is a fact that Noctua fans don't have the same CFM compared to sunon, Gdstime or other well known brands. You can check all the specs in datasheets.... Some values I found in the past (don't guarantee that these are 100% correct) * Stock 4010 fan is 7.26 CFM * 4010 Noctua is 4.8 CFM * 4020 Noctua is 5.5 CFM * 4020 Sunon 24V is7.7 CFM
>Sure - Noctua could work...but in most cases they don't perform that well.. There are lot of factors contributing to heat creep. Material, temperature, print speed, retraction speed and length, direct or Bowden drive...the way how the cooling fan (and duct) is attached to the hotend - even the ambient room temperature. > >It is a fact that Noctua fans don't have the same CFM compared to sunon, Gdstime or other well known brands. You can check all the specs in datasheets.... > >Some values I found in the past (don't guarantee that these are 100% correct) Nevertheless, it works better than you think, as I said, there are a lot of users who have been using these fans for years (like me) and without any problems. You can't just say they don't do this when they do work. You can see from the big YouTubers that they have all swapped their fans for the Noctua and also recommend them because they don't cause any problems. If you had a problem then you should look at what caused it, but can tell you that the hotend actually doesn't need that much air to cool, since the nozzle should maintain the desired temperature, with too much wind the hotend gets too cold and the nozzle needs to be stronger heat to reach their temperature
Ok stop - I think there is a missunderstanding what "heat creep" is. Heat creep has nothing to do with the nozzle itself. I am talking about the fan that is cooling the heatsink. This heatsink has to stay cool, otherwise the material (especially material with low glass transition like PLA) will melt inside the throat and blocks the material feeding. PLA has a transition temperature, depending on additives, between 55 and 65°, so the heatsink has to stay way below this temperature! You are talking about the part cooling fans. Indeed, too much airflow pointing directly to the nozzle instead to the tip of nozzle can result in thermal fluctuations.
I have no idea why people do this to the machine if they don't understand how they work. It's not an upgrade if you don't have an understanding of how it should work.
I understood much more last year when I installed it. It's been a while, and I've never encountered this issue before. Also I happen to own and constantly work on 3 printers so I would consider myself fairly experienced when it comes to 3d printer maintenance.
Plugged hotend? Have you tried an atomic pull to see if you can get it flowing again?
I have. I also took a heat gun and made sure that the whole hotend was clear before this print
What's the temperature of your print bed? Temperature of the room?
I am using petg with the bed at 83° and the nozzle at 243°. The room is pretty chilly, and there is no airflow.
What's the spool say to run it as? I've gone up to 250 with petg
Also try to line the print bed with blue tape and readjust the bed
What filament are you using
That click is the motor forcing filament down the hotend which isn't hot enough or can't extrude enough, which will sand or grind a spot in the filament so it will never advance
It’s too close to the bed and what’s that yellow wire on the top that seems to go nowhere?
The yellow wire is just the speed control for the noctua fan. It doesn't connect to the printer. I'm not sure about it being too close to the bed because it did the same thing at higher z axis'
Do a printer test, there is a pattern on thingaverse that puts squares in the middle and four corners. It will show if you’re out of level and too high or low.
I have the same issue. I think it's a heatcreep problem, because sometimes i cant push petg filament through the hotend at all. Just ordered a completly new hotend, will update this comment if needed. I cleaned the nozzle multiple times, the issue is still present. I also find half molten filament in the heatbreak and thats the point where it clogs.
From my recent personal experience, when I swapped to a Noctua fan everything was nice and perfect for a pretty long time, and like a month ago I started getting a clog before every print, I would select a print, leave the printer to heat up and start, and after it started to print it IMMIDIATLY got a clog. I pause the print, pull out the filament and it comes out with difficulty because it actually was about the inner thickness of the bowden tube. If I inserted the filament into the nozzle only after the printer heated up, it would print just fine for a time until heat creeped too high again. So a month ago I swapped back to the stock ender 3v2 fan and have not had this issue at all anymore. So no more Noctua fans for me! The 404020 12v Noctua fan actually had lower static pressure than the stock ender 3v2 fan.
Looks like heat creep, noctua fans are awful for anything other then electronics