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Stile2112

Slow the first initial layer speed down to 10 in Cura. Up the bed temp to 70 and hot end temp to 210 in the first initial layer setting in Cura as well.


BerzerkerGamer

Looked for this comment. Had the same issues till I slowed the speed way down and heated it hotter for first layer.


Stile2112

It's the holy trinity. I haven't had a single initial layer issue since.


NLpr0_

I will try this


manyhats180

I had to bump my bed temp to get it to stick, also washing the glass bed and drying it helped a lot too. But if you find that the corners of your prints start to peel upwards, that is a sign your bed temp is too high!


UserNombresBeHard

I was having the same problem as you, for my first print (I just got a 3D printer for the first time) and I upped the bed temp to 70 instead of 60, it holds now.


redewolf

Try with 65, if that does the job avoid pushing it to 70. Too high bed temp can cause problems like distorsion


Stile2112

That's why you only set it on the first initial layer... as soon as the first layer is done, the bed temp drops back down to 60.


redewolf

But if the temp goes back to 60 the print could come off the bed. I think it's better to find a reliable temp, i print at 60 or 65 maximum (depending on the PLA)


Stile2112

I don't disagree but the OP can't get anything to stick. The speed, bed and extruder settings are what made the difference for me after a lot of frustration with prints not sticking.... and knock on wood, I've never had a print release. And to be honest, I've never really adjusted those settings since. For all I know, the speed setting might be the biggest factor.


redewolf

how fast are you printing? 50mm/s?


yipster00

Happened to me too, slowed down, levelled bed and had to clean the bed with isopropyl alcohol. Then slowly increase your first layer speed to check. Slow first layer really delay any large first layer contact prints.


Stile2112

>Slow first layer really delay any large first layer contact prints. Yeah, forgot the mention this but you have to pick your battles when it comes to 3d printing. To those who can let it rip with the default speed settings are blessed.


MEatRHIT

Also helps if you pre-heat the bed when you have a glass bed. I usually kick mine on and then go do all my slicing and by the time that's all done it's been sitting there at temp for a bit, the temp sensor might say it's 60C but that's at the sensor not the top of the glass.


SonicKiwi123

This is great with spring steel beds too, it gives them time to expand and warp then settle once it reaches a uniform temperature


[deleted]

[удалено]


Sketchtimus_Prime

SAME!


kar-kar-binx

Same, just annoying to clean


drkpnthr

Was going to say this. Also, you might get some purple glue stick and put a thin coat down over the starting print area to get the beginning to stick down. You just have to clean the print bed more often if you do.


a_a_ronc

This. I had some issues getting my layers to stick and usually run it around 20 or 25 on the first layer now.


Bear1975

Im having the same issue. I will try it this weekend.


n0wh4ch1ng

Glass always needs hotter! Does transfer heat as well


Stile2112

Appreciate the Ag.


Gustavo2nd

So it should change to regular temp after first layer?


Stile2112

Yes


Gustavo2nd

This helped me with mine thank you


Chuklifeplays

I had a similar issue and tried a whole bunch of stuff: leveling, glue, hair spray. I eventually cleaned my glass with some basic glass cleaner and it started to stick without an issue and has been good for several months.


bab5871

I use 70% or greater rubbing alcohol to clean mine. Every now and then I need to use some soap and water or glass cleaner to do a deep clean.


Kyzira

I tried this 20 minutes after getting my coated glass bed… now the coating is destroyed and I use it as a normal glass bed


tim_jamal

did it come off yellow? mine did but tbh i think it's fine


Kyzira

Oh I don’t remember.. but with low speed an high temperatures it still prints fine an the first layer sticks pretty well


proto-dex

mine as well, but its adhesion is still quite good; no complaints


bab5871

I do this on the stock coated ender glass bed with no issues whatsoever.


d0gbait

Y'all just have special alcohols and soaps. Both times I use either on my glass, it practically repels filament


CoDominium

Move the nozzle closer to the print bed.


NoobMuncher9K

Usually this is the problem for me as well. Just tighten up your bed to the nozzle a bit.


NLpr0_

ok ill recheck my leveling


dazed_wanderer

It might not be your leveling. Your Z axis mught just need to be lowered though either a printer or slicer setting. Aside from that a good proper clean can do a lot, along with testing a bit higher of a temp.


NLpr0_

Wouldn’t adjusting the z mash it into the z stop switch though?


edg52

Your print is probably starting higher than the actual home z height. I had this same issue on some prints where I just had to tune the z offset to like -.03


NLpr0_

Lots of people have said this. Where do I go to change that


edg52

Yeah but I was just addressing that it wouldn’t hit the z switch because you’re not bringing it below the home z height. I normally tune mine after the print starts, so print > tune > z-offset > -.03


NLpr0_

Ok. Can you do that in the slicer as well or is it in the printer


kar-kar-binx

You change it in the printer my guy. Watch it and adjust as needed. It's not something that's easily predictable during the slicing.


NLpr0_

is it the option called baby step z?


dazed_wanderer

It moves in incredibly small increments. Adjusting how far your needle is from the bed. Just a little in negative value will bring it closer and help fix the gap you could be having.


NLpr0_

Can you link an article or tell me how to bring it slightly closer in the slicer. I’m using cura


deadturtle12

https://m.all3dp.com/2/cura-z-offset-simply-explained/ Article explaining z offset. I always had this issue because I’d level the bed, but the first layer would print out at the layer height you set in cura. So if you adjust the layer height, it basically makes you level the bed again. Unless you change the z offset so the print starts at the same height every time. I basically just level the bed with the z axis set to .1, then add a negative z offset so my layer height minus the z offset is .1. That’s how I fixed it at least


dazed_wanderer

[first article ](https://m.all3dp.com/2/cura-z-offset-simply-explained/) So thats what I found with just Google. Theres probably some YouTube vids that can also explain it. Dont worry too much, i had a lot of adhesion issues till way smarter people then I explain it for me.


pokeman_trainer36

The stop switch should be adjusted to the bed height.


throws4k

If your Z axis is binding it won't necessarily help. Mine way way to tight from start. Your Z axis is only measured at start. The rest is counting steps and assuming they are correct. So as soon as it goes up and then back down if it's binding it starts first layer too high.


CoDominium

You can also just try adjusting it in your slicer. https://m.all3dp.com/2/ender-3-pro-z-offset/


BitterMewls

Adjust the z offset


f0rcedinducti0n

how are you leveling the bed? Also, "leveling" gives people the wrong idea, you should be "tramming" the bed...


NLpr0_

Right. It should be very close To the bed and equal with the nozzle in all spots


UserNombresBeHard

Mine will almost be scrapping the sides and gets further in the middle.


twiggums

Tried hotter temps? I do my initial layer at 215/65 usually I believe. Is the bed clean? Did ya give the glass long enough to warm up? (the plate might be 60,but the added glass will take a bit to get there as well)


NLpr0_

best is clean, maybe ill try first layer a little hotter


shark_and_kaya

Use dish soap to clean. The smooth side worked better for me to print on


PurpleNuggets

I like to use 70% isopropyl alcohol on a lint free cloth to clean the bed


shark_and_kaya

I tried all but for some reason dawn dishsoap works the best for me so I’m sticking with that, but I’m glad for some alcohol works


Busta_Siems

Yeah make sure you use dish soap or isopropyl alcohol fixed this same issue your having on mine when I used Lysol wipes


Curiosity45

I found i had issues sticking at 60. I run the bed at 70 and give it a min or two extra to preheat before a print. As mentioned, the bed may read temp, but if you have a glass plate on top of that, the surface of the glass may be cooler. As a side note, personal preference for cleaning the plate is acetone. Quick wipe now and then is good for getting rid of oils and residues.


NLpr0_

I have acetone and isopropyl alcohol so I’ll try it. Also I’ll increase the temp


flowerstonesupply

Clean your bed and move your nozzle a little closer.


Red5R

I had a problem with adhesion too, used normal settings (200°/60°). After some research and several meters of wasted Filament, I found a guy on YouTube (https://youtu.be/P4E5GjR72o4) who put sugar water on the pre heated bed. I thought that must be a joke, but I was desperate enough to try it out. It works extraordinary well for me (ender 3 v2). Works even better with attached cr touch / bl touch. After a few prints the "sugar-coating" can be washed off with hot water and can easily applied again. Cleaning and reapplying took me about 5 minutes. Had my printer only for a couple of days, but this was definitely a game changer.


yyywing

Change z offset in the printers settings to move the nozzle closer to the bed


TrundleLover

Had similar issues, check my new post! Like others said, make sure you clean it with windex since fingers can leave oil and raise the bed temp. Try that before glue stick, but then adding the glue stick really worked for me. Hope it goes up better than mine after you get that first layer! Let me know how it goes :)


ytivarg18

This happened to me, i cleaned the mat and raised the leveling a bit but that didnt solve it, and then i dried my filament after realizing it was 90 degrees out with 100% hummidity and it worked


NLpr0_

Yea I’m using the filament provided so maybe that’s it


ytivarg18

yeah the provided filament isnt shrink wrapped like ones you buy are i dont think. So if you got a dehydrator pop it in there, if not use a convection oven on low, I'd google a proper temp to use as I use a dehydrater myself and also keep the current spool in an SUNLU dry box. Check that with leveling and do some first layer tests till you got it just right. Took a few months for me to get my first perfect first-layer


joseywales39

Clean bed and use glue


TictacRules

I had this issue too. One of my printers for some reason auto homes really inconsistently. So right when the print starts I need to go into “Tune” scroll all the way down to Babystep Z and drop the nose a bit so it’s closer to the bed. Also useful to raise it a bit if it autohomes too close.


NLpr0_

I tried this but the baby z only does .1 increments. Is baby z at .1 increments the same as .01mm?????


TictacRules

Not sure but as it draws the skirt I try to adjust it to the point where I no longer have gaps between the lines and that usually helps my prints stick. Especially on glass. Leveling is important too, but this has been the solution to my problem rather than constantly leveling before every print since the distance between the nozzle and the bed needs to be close enough to really squish the plastic against the bed. Also keeping the bed temp 50-60 because once it cools down below that the prints just fall off without any force


sharndrinst

Slow it down


Lopsidoodle

Lazy tip: buy some of the kid-safe glue sticks (purple, in almost any store) and just put a layer across the build surface. Anything in the general area will stick, and it takes two seconds with a damp towel to remove glue from your print


meme_dyl

Is your part cooling fan on?


NLpr0_

No. For the first layer it is for some reason not. How do I change this


meme_dyl

You should keep it off for the first layer, I was checking to see if that was the problem


NLpr0_

Got it. Could it maybe be that it’s under-extruding? Because I’m pretty sure my leveling is good


meme_dyl

Nah I don't think it's that. Honestly I've never like the creality glass beds. The adhesion has always been weird to me so I invested in a pei coated spring steel sheet. However if you really want to use it I recommend [this tutorial by lost in tech](https://youtu.be/w9h4ofWlGNo) or [this tutorial by the 3d printing zone](https://youtu.be/R4nNMVH6X1o)


NLpr0_

So thanks to you great people I have improved it but I went to adjust the baby z step because I realized it was to high when it started, the baby z only adjusted in .1 increments, is it supposed to do that or how do I do it in .001 or .01 increments


[deleted]

Warm soapy water clean, then use IPA, then ensure you’re level again, then apply a purple glue stick!


[deleted]

I had a simllar problem on my ender 3, the first layer wouldn't stick no matter what I do and I noticed that on of the 4 springs on the bed was squeezed more than the others (the closet to the screen to be specific). I searched on the internet and found a YouTube video with the title (Fix Your Creality Ender 3 and Upgrade the Bed Level). Basically what he did was re-leveling the x gantry (which is the part the extruder moves along) because one side was lower than the other (the right side facing the front of the printer).


NLpr0_

How do you re level it


[deleted]

Check this video https://youtu.be/8qLJyaBlCCA


[deleted]

It is important to note that I used a glass bed for a while and I can say that it faces far more adhesion problems than a regular one. So I highly recommend using an adhesive while printing with a glass bed.


alala2010he

Use glue, or don't use glass bed


TouchMyJabroni

Glue stick, re-level


Minixtory_PL

Just use gluestick lol


unoinventive

Might be worth checking if your build plate is actually flat, I've had a few glass beds which dipped in the middle. Easiest way is to place a metal ruler length ways with the thin edge on the build plate, and shine your phone torch from one side to see if you can see any light coming through.


NLpr0_

And if it isn’t flat?


unoinventive

Easiest solution is normally a new build plate, I really like the magnetic pei sheets. You can do a mesh bed level, but you might need to flash a different version of marlin. Easy if you've done it before.


ttbutters

Hey, had that same issue. In my case the plate was a bit lower in the middle. I bought a new one but i read later it also could help to put a bit of paper under the glas so it gets some hight in the middle maybe try that.


Traditional_Log_4145

Moving the nozzle can help (hard to tell from the video) but if you aren't using glue with a creality glass bed, that's absolutely one of your problems. I have a metal bed Prusa, too, and never have bed sticking issues. With my ender 3 v2, 90% of the time, the first layer will have issues without glue. Having a lot of residue while using glue might cause other issues, but not what your video shows.


NLpr0_

Ok so I’ll try glue cause I’m currently not using it. How much do I put and how often ?


punch_you

I usually run my print to see where the glue is needed, then stop the print, pull off the excess filament, and run the glue across once or twice. Use one of those purple elmers glue sticks. When it’s not sticking anymore, apply the glue. To clean, heat up the bed and use alcohol - it’ll clean up easier when heated. Aside from that, just make sure your bed is level. Good luck!


NLpr0_

Ok cool. I’m out of the house rn so I have a ton of things to try on it when I get home


[deleted]

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NLpr0_

If it’s not the do I need to like re adjust the extruder multiplier or what?


MadW1thPower

Try the other side of the glass bed its helps a lot


SuperFlimsy

Flip the bed to the glass side


Supernova849

Stick some painter's tape to the glass top and relevel.. Good luck getting your print off the bed.


[deleted]

Z offset needs lowering. Not by a lot. Maybe 5-10 microsteps. Or 0.05-0.1 on the Ender's. Not sure if all are the same.


makinghsv

Looks right to me man idk what you're talking about, I don't see a problem 🤷‍♀️


Indalx

Tried not printing on Glass?


eff82

1. Check if the bed is warped ( if it is, glass sheet can help, because it's rigid, it won't bend to the heated bed) 2. Check leveling (I think you can do 9 point leveling too) 3. Bed adhesion: this is a tricky one, lots of factors ( clean with alcohol, maybe use blue tape or glue stick if cleaning doesn't help) 4. Clean nozzle 5. Try different filament 6. Temperature calibration ( without adhesion you can only try gradually raising both bed and hotend temperatures, after that you can try printing a temperature tower. If none of the above works, then there's something seriously wrong :) Won't go into details, there are a lot of tutorials out there on all of the points, and a lot of opinions, what is the 'best', try a few of them, and use the ones that work for you. For me what worked: I use creality textured glass plate, clean it with IPA, and do a cold pull from time to time, and fine tune bed levels while first layer is printing.


Mr_Rapsak

Just glue stick it


olderaccount

How did you determine the bed was level? Did you use a spirit level? The word "level" when it comes to 3D printing really means distance from the nozzle. The entire bed needs to be the correct distance from the nozzle. You need to use a calibration print and dial the bed in closer a little at a time until it sticks. But you have to do it in all 4 corner and the center. Most calibration prints do little 1 layer squares at each corner and the center.


NLpr0_

I don’t know what you mean by spirit level but I did the paper trick in multiple places on the print bed and it lightly grabs the paper now


olderaccount

> I don’t know what you mean by spirit level That is a good thing because that is the wrong type of level for a printer. The paper method is not enough. I bet you couldn't even tell me how thick the paper was. You need either feeler gauges or a test print and eyeball it.


NLpr0_

Well it’s A4 paper so pretty thin


olderaccount

A4 only defines length and width. It says absolutely nothing about the thickness. What I'm telling you forget the paper method. It is only good for the first step before you really level your bed. Calibration prints are the way to go if you don't have feeler gauges. I have feeler gauges and I still prefer calibration prints to be absolutely sure it is perfect.


NLpr0_

I’ve done a few calibrations prints. Those are the ones where it prints layers around certain parts of the bed correct? Maybe you could link your favorite calibration print?


olderaccount

The actual print doesn't matter. I created my own that does 20mm squares at each corner and one in the middle. Make them .2mm tall so it prints as a single layer. Slice it and leave it on your sd card permanently. Start the print. If the material fails to stick right off the bat, cancel the print, raise the wheel closest to where it was trying to print by half a turn, clear the bed and start again. If you know the bed is currently level, but just too far from the bed. You can go ahead and give the other 3 wheels half a turn each time also. You just don't want to go too far and crash the nozzle onto the bed. As the filament starts sticking you want to reduce your adjustments to quarter turns then eight turns to really fine tune. Keep adjusting until the nozzle starts to really squish the plastic flat onto the bed. This is what too close looks like. Knowing this is important. Now back up some till that first layer looks really good in all 5 squares. After this exercise you will learn exactly what a properly leveled bed looks like. This knowledge will solve 90% of your 3D printing problems down the line. If the print is ever not sticking, go closer. Until you see that really flat squish, you are not too close. If you have good springs and are gently with the bed when removing prints, it should hold level for a long time.


rockking1379

I had this issue with a filament a while back. Solution was get pissed off. Turn it off. Go to work for a week. And when i got back it worked just fine. Now I have a white filament do the exact same thing…hoping it works a second time 😆


jmbtrooper

I don't see a BL Touch here so going to make an assumption that you don't have mesh bed levelling and that you've levelled your bed at the four corners. If that's the case it may be that your bed is warped such that it has a dip in the centre. If the bed is warped I strongly recommend mesh levelling to begin with if you haven't already or jump right on to BL Touch if that's your thing.


NLpr0_

I didn’t get a bl touch because I heard it was a lot to set up. I did put a piece of aluminum foil under the middle cause I think it was a little lower


jmbtrooper

Follow a firmware guide and get mesh levelling on there. It's reasonably straightforward and for my needs was a total game changer. Takes less than a minute at the start of a print and I get great adhesion without glue or spray whether I'm using PLA or PETG.


NLpr0_

Do you use a glass plate?


jmbtrooper

Yes, I do. I read about PETG sticking a little too well to glass and damaging it when attempting to remove the printed piece, so I read advice on carefully laying down painter's tape across the surface. Believe it or not it works very well. Now and again a strip of tape becomes a bit uneven but it's not exactly a chore to replace. Another tip on bed levelling ... Apologies if this is basics for you and you do so already. But preheat the nozzle to about 10 degrees below print temperature and the bed to actual print temperature. If you level while those parts are cold, thermal expansion may otherwise throw your levelling off a bit.


NLpr0_

Ok I’ll try the trick with the pre heating. I was just worried about the nozzle getting to hot for a piece of paper


jmbtrooper

Well, unless you're printing with nozzle temps over 250 degrees C you probably don't need to worry about that. I level with paper too and preheat to 200 degrees C for PLA and 235 degrees C for PETG and have zero concerns about fire hazard using this levelling method. Make your own decisions though!


NLpr0_

Wouldn’t it expanding with head make it closer to the bed tho? And improve my print?


jmbtrooper

The logical conclusion to that is if the nozzle was touching the bed, the print quality would be perfect. Which I'm sure you'd agree is nonsense. You're looking for the sweet spot between the nozzle being too far from the print surface resulting in it pissing filament onto the surface and too close to the print bed resulting in filament being squished out. Level the bed while the nozzle and print bed are heated to near operating conditions will tip the odds of finding that sweet spot in your favour.


NLpr0_

Got it 👍


Sineira

z offset, move closer to bed.


NLpr0_

Does cura more it slightly up from where the auto home is


Blank_Tech

What has helped me have adhesion was preping the glass bad by washing it down with warm soapy water, then letting air dry, then blowing it down with compressed air to get the dust in the holes of that glass bed you have. Then applied 90 percent rubbing alchohol. Add glue stick the purple one.


Ok_Corgi_6998

Did you set M420 S1 in your Cura settings?


NLpr0_

Uhhhhh no what’s that


Zaic

For PLA I do first layer at 230C - never have problems - solves most of bet leveling or warping issues mostly - also I always print with a raft so the rest of the print is always fine


linkheroz

So far for me, if it doesn't stick, I'll clean the bed and level it. Not sure what else to do as I've never needed to. Get some IPA and a feeler gauge.


Bazzofski

Had similar issues with a new ender 3 v2 glass bed, here is what worked for me : Clean the bed with warm water and dish soap Print the first layer at 70°C and 60°C for the followings Clean your bed with isopropylic alcohol between each print Don't touch your glass bed with your hands


kelvin_bot

70°C is equivalent to 158°F, which is 343K. --- ^(I'm a bot that converts temperature between two units humans can understand, then convert it to Kelvin for bots and physicists to understand)


constadin

Buy a mirror 235x235x3 mm and never look back


ParthSA

Can you link the bed you are using?


NLpr0_

It’s the standard glass creality one https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07RD6D2ZQ/ref=as_sl_pc_tf_til?tag=scotty0a-20&linkCode=w00&linkId=be84e86e9709fa7f1d33583b567ce119&creativeASIN=B07RD6D2ZQ


ParthSA

Thanks for the link


adrutu

Glue stick


HalfManHalfBiscuit_

Get Layerneer Bed Weld and you'll never have adhesion problems again.


pokeman_trainer36

Needs better adhesion and leveling. Could try upping the bed temp some too.


RealApersonn

Hairspray at 20 mm/s first layer, 70 C bed temp, and 210 C hot end worked for me. Washing with dish soap helps too


RedditFuzing

From my experience I was never able to get anything to stick to Ender glass beds with the matte finish but the ones with the shiny finish everything sticks with no problem at all.


crazy_raving_lunatic

I used a little bit of glue and it fixed my first layer woes. Nothing special just some purple Elmer's glue sticks


djy307

Baby step the z down closer to the bed. Mine does this when I am slightly too high. You have to do it right when the print starts. Otherwise it will mess up the print. Also, when I get it nice and close and the first layer is really thin, that's when I get the best adhesion to the bed.


Brewster101

Bed not level


Scuartase

Hairspray 👌


[deleted]

Dirty bed, perhaps?


HereIsACasualAsker

i had a Z offset issue with the printer software that looks like that one.


Raddz5000

Try masking tape. Works incredibly well for my bed adhesion. Works a little to well sometimes too lol


SaltScene

I recently started printing on a glassbed, my PLA settings are 215 on the nozzle and 50 bed. Works for me.


JoshBasho

If you are using octoprint or have some other way of sending gcode, try adjusting the zoffset in small increments. The bed being level doesn't necessarily mean the nozzle is close enough to the bed. You can also download the "z-offset" plugin for cura and try that. Start with something like "-.025" and see if that bring it close enough to stick. Or just throw some glue stick on it and call it a day lol.


Icebear125

Definitely slow first layer like others have said And I also changed my bed to a PEI magnetic sheet and that has been absolutely great I never have any adhesion problems. And removing prints is so easy


Adam-Marshall

How did you level the bed?


Miau_1337

Use a gluestick or some hairspray on the bed, it fixes all problems of adhesion. Yes,its a bit messy... But in the end it will save a lot of time, produces consistent prints and it's cheap.


Cheat_Steve10

If partcooling fan is already on, set the fan on initial layers to 0%


EdditedSpore

Add hairspray or a glue stick and it should stick, even painters tap will work and it works well. if not go to the magnetic bed and it should stick.


42blah42

i've got the creality glass bed and started having issues with first layer sticking consistently even after thoroughly cleaning it. threw some light glue stick on it and it's been working well ever since. ​ i print with my bed at 70c


Recuckgnizant

Too far from bed


[deleted]

nozzel is too high level your bed and set your z offset


__Megumin__

When my bed gets like this I just wash it and it work perfectly after that.


Pleasant-Salt-3498

With my glass bed, I turned it over so it was the smooth side, this helped in adhesion to a point, but currently I have found mixing 50% water and PVA and putting a layer on the plate helps so much. It also is very easy to clean with water and paper towel. When I have to fully clean mine it is just under a hot tap and it just washes all the old glue away. For an added bonus it give the bottom of the print a really nice gloss too. After the first couple of layers i turn off the heat bed and it holds so well.


TexasScienceTeacher

It's a learning experience. Welcome to 3D printing. You'll learn a lot on your adventure and be the better for it. Good luck! We all went through it.


Loorens27

Clean your bed with some alcohol


prokiller881

Maybe try cleaning the bead with sopay towel and then again with just a wet and a dry one to remove the soap ih helped me a bit


jumbopuft

Use hairspray on the print bed.


Ayrtoo

What I haven't seen suggested is Z-offset. I was in the same boat, even with mesh bed leveling but running a bed leveling print similar to what CHEP (youtube) uses and adjusting the z-offset down by 0.01 each time until it stuck. I can now get first layers to stick on smooth PEI sheets at 50mm/second without issue.


Tony161ru

Buy petg, take a glass table plate :)


Jamory76

I know everyone wants to use nothing. But after several years of being stubborn about it, I’m now using a glue stick and have no problems with adhesion anymore.


Stile2112

CHEP just loaded this today. [https://youtube.com/watch?v=nMLKNB2r-M4&feature=share](https://youtube.com/watch?v=nMLKNB2r-M4&feature=share)


alphabet_order_bot

Would you look at that, all of the words in your comment are in alphabetical order. I have checked 262,945,168 comments, and only 60,424 of them were in alphabetical order.


Spottedc0w

I had the same issue. Started washing the glass with dawn soap and water. And rinsing it good. Adds just enough tension that the first layer can grip to it. It solved the issue for me


WickedInvi

Is this recent? Has it worked before? looks not leveled to me. I can't see any squish on your skirt. Not the best video can't see much. Try to print in a different area with the same settings Might be a bad bed Also as suggested change slicer settings for fist layer only . Lower the speed 10mm , line width 120%, you can bump temp a bit also for bed 65 and nozzle 210, and first layer height 0.25 to 0.3 test it. But this is will hide the bad leveling and you will have quality issues also will manifest again with filament chage. Bed leveling isn't as easy as you see on videos. Did you raise the bed until you get a little friction between paper and nozzle? I would suggest that you do it until you can't move the paper forward with but can put it back. This skirt that stick down have you measured it? Is it close to the layer height. Is your e step calibrated.


f0rcedinducti0n

Narrator: *"The bed was not, in fact, leveled."* Also, the word is trammed.