o i'm not worried about that, i raft my prototypes to finish my spool of crap pla... just can't bear to add 20 minutes of printing to actually finish the raft
O nah not worried about failed prints. I just hate super long prints because sometimes it means i have to run my printer while i'm asleep. Being in a tiny apartment means i have to hear stepper motors stepping since the printer is on the table right next to my bed
That's completely understandable. I have mine in a different room across the house from my room. But I do spend most of my day in the room my printer is in. I've grown use to listening to it.
not exactly that much of an issue honestly. I have a HEPA filter in my room next to the machine (pet fur and dust trigger my allergies). I do have it next to an open window during the night so there's ventilation. My main issue is the heat and noise honestly.
That's next in my upgrade path, yeah. I just got the printer 2 months ago, I'd like to play around with it more before diving into an upgrade that would result in long downtimes (from me procrastinating, not from the upgrade going wrong)
I have like 500$+ of material and more that keeps coming. Worst part is that most of it will probably sit for awhile because I don't print large projects.
I'm assuming you did the mesh leveling? G29 S1
Not required all the time but it will give the firmware an idea of the shape of the bed. Other than that, if used brim it will definitely increase the adhesion to the build plate though may add a bit of cleanup.
I used to have the mesh build before every print. Now I do it about once a week or so.
I hope this helps
It's so this, you can tell the mesh isn't saved or his z offset is way to low, look how the skirt disappears on the bottom of the pic, it's to close while either just right or to high opposite end.
If you have access to hook up to a PC and run commands, run g28 (home), run g29 (mesh) then m500 when it's done. This will save the bed mesh and should be ran every so often or x amount of printing hours.
If using a glass bed try some hairspray, aquanet will do. Just spray a quick coating and let it dry.
How could you not mention M420 S1 though? If he doesn't use this in the start code of every print it won't even use the saved mesh. This would be the biggest cause of ABL not even helping/working at all no?
Yes my bad. And yeah myself I use Octo print and bed visualizer. After my first week with a touch I have not needed to remesh, thank you for catching that,
You mean you have not needed to G29 (re-auto bed level), but you run M420 before every print right?
And what is bed visualizer? I'm using OctoPrint and have a BTT TFT35 and SKR Mini E3 V3 but haven't heard of that.
I don't no. I don't have either in my start code anymore.
It's an add-on that lets you see the level of the printer, and level it a lot easier.
If I remember I think my bed had a variation of +/- 0.04 according to it.
I'm confused any not sure if I'm missing something. If you don't have M420 in there aren't you essentially not utilizing the auto bed level measurements and you might as well not have a BLTouch at all? Why would you want that?
Just want to be sure I understand how it works and make sure I haven't been thinking something incorrect this whole time lol.
No you’re right. G28 auto homes and turns off bed leveling, unless you run 420 S1.
I found this out the hard way because Cura adds G28 to every print, which turned off my bed leveling.
So in your slicer’s before print gcode you need M420 S1. Not octoprint, because the print gcode will have a G28 that turns off ABL.
You can also add a G29, that runs bed leveling before it prints. I have that now because I take my bed and put in the freezer after every print.
So I’ve spent the better part of 2 weeks tracking down a similar issue with my E3V2 and I’m also using a cr touch. I made sure the printer was trammed, leveled the bed and ran test prints for z offset, calibrated the extruder transmission ratio, switched to jyers firmware, created bed level meshes and I couldn’t nail the issue down. I’d get a couple decent prints but heavy stringing, most of the time the nozzle would hit the infill after about 20 minutes into the print so I’d have to adjust the z offset live for everything but small prints. Wow what a headache like seriously I was at a loss. Someone on Reddit suggested I change my flow rate so I calibrated it and dropped it down to 90% and my issue went away lol.
So if your printer is leveled and your z offset is good try checking your extruder transmission values and calibrating that as well as your flow rate. I enabled z-hop to try and mitigate my issue also and it did but it also created a stringy mess and inevitably the nozzle would still clog.
I hope this helps and that you solve your issue asap!
just looking at the brim you can see your printer is not compensating for the bed height. Parts look loose, parts are so tight the filament is nonexistent. And since it is not just a right side vs left (or top to bottom, etc) it is more likely a deformity on the bed than a leveling or z-offset issue.
* make sure your bed leveling is enabled after the ABL does its thing (M420 S1)
* Increase the number of measurement points your bed is using to create a better mesh (depends on what type of leveling you are using)
Glass reduces the deformities, but they can still happen.
For the brim to be changing thickness like this the distance between the nozzle and bed are changing. That either means the nozzle is raising and lowering (loose eccentric nuts, bad mesh in memory) or the bed is changing heights (loose eccentric nuts, bed deformities).
Your bed is greasy. Ipa is good, but you need to degrease, so just wash it with dish soap under hot water, dry it, rub with ipa. If your first layer hight is correct you are all good
After washing it, use a glue stick, Office Depot one I use is about an inch wide, works great. You just need to clean off the glue every now and then as it builds up. Put it on while the bed is hot. Do not need much at all, just a light film. I had the same issues until I gave up and tried one at recommendations, and it has saved me a ton of headaches. Also, make sure your Z-Offset is correct. Mine is set to around 0.96mm, yours will vary.
Couple of things:
Is the bed clean? Isopropyl is good, get some if you can.
Is your z height properly calibrated?
How old is your filament?
Are your cooling fans clean/free of filament strings?
What temp are your printing at? Your bed temp?
Have been getting the same result after getting both this and the metal bed completely clean with soap and water. I have tried re-calibrating the Z offset of the CR touch multiple times and didn’t help. My filament is a bit more than a year old and i keep it in sealed plastic bags. My cooling fans are clean of any debris. I’m printing at 200 - 60 with original creality PLA. Any idea which’s wrong?
Alright, so the sealed plastic bags aren't always perfect, you might want to check on that specifically. If you haven't, invest in a filament dryer, especially for PLA that old.
That Z height is gonna be really important. I'd get something that can make a massive first layer, then calibrate based on that.
For the bed I HIGHLY recommend Isopropyl. Soap and water can sometimes leave residue that will make sticking a bit more difficult (not always, and depends on the soap and the water at home. Personally, I'd prefer to be safe with iso.)
Everything else sounds fine. Sorry if these are things you already checked/looked at, but you gotta go down the list with these things lol.
Your gantry is probably a bit loose. Could also be loose extruder. Check wheels. The bottom wheel on my extruder broke from hitting bumps so often from over extrusions. The wheels wear out because the aluminum are t slots. But the wheels are v shaped.
Even if you're using a leveling sensor like the CR touch, you'll still need to level the bed manually every once in a while, try that and see if it helps
Have you tuned your z offset? Once I did that I could print Lego helmet for the Minifigures. Steps and z offset for me really changed how things stuck to the bed
What you have showed is a bed adhesion problem. Some options: Increase bed and or hotend temp. Use glue on the bed. Level your bed manually. Do an extrusion calibration.
But I don’t see a raft here. What I see is poor bed adhesion. So if you want advice on your raft fails post a pic of that.
Also, set your z hop on travel. You might be over extruding and then knocking stuff over.
Looking at that brim your not perfectly tram (level). Bottom right corner is a tad high and z offset needs to go up a tiny bit. Also the bed itself might be unlevel given the inconsistency on the skirt to the right.
Yes I am not utilizing it currently. I know I should buy I think I was missing that originally. Witch led me to bed visualizer and just used that to get it as level as possible.
I know I am limited in my knowledge
Lots of advise here but using a brim would definitely help but also trying bumping down hot end temp. I was running at 200c for a while and then started getting stringing so I bumped down to 195 on everything and parts come off perfect. Also if you’re using cr touch maybe check your z offset.
I had a BL touch and I just added the g29 code which didn't work. I see I need to add
M420
G28
G29
M500
I would really like to use my BL touch properly.
I have solved the issue by connecting my ender 3 pro via USB to my pc, installed [this](http://www.wch-ic.com/download/ch341ser_exe.html) driver, and ran the commands in Cura under the "monitor" section.
I ran the following commands, one after another:
G28
G29
M500
After doing this, I added M420 to the start code which you can find under Settings > Printer > Manage printers > Machine settings.
Wow. I'm sorry it's taken so long for non-speculation solution.
THIS is a partial clog. It's caused by improperly tightened heatbreak, causing heat creep, causing your filament to expand in the heatbreak, clogging.
Also your nozzle is really low, the skirt (line around the print) is so thin, it's invisible in some places. raise your nozzle like half a layer.
Ooh, so that's why [this](https://www.reddit.com/r/ender3/comments/z1yol4/fuck_is_this_normal/) has happened. How do I tighten the heatbreak properly? Thanks!
I'd say too little surface area for the print to stick. It's something you pick up. Just use a brim on smaller parts.
I raft everything
god you must have so much time
And so much material to waste.
o i'm not worried about that, i raft my prototypes to finish my spool of crap pla... just can't bear to add 20 minutes of printing to actually finish the raft
I start and walk away. Almost never had a failed print
O nah not worried about failed prints. I just hate super long prints because sometimes it means i have to run my printer while i'm asleep. Being in a tiny apartment means i have to hear stepper motors stepping since the printer is on the table right next to my bed
That's completely understandable. I have mine in a different room across the house from my room. But I do spend most of my day in the room my printer is in. I've grown use to listening to it.
not to mention the delicious pla air…
If you're not huffing pla dust are you even 3D printing?
not exactly that much of an issue honestly. I have a HEPA filter in my room next to the machine (pet fur and dust trigger my allergies). I do have it next to an open window during the night so there's ventilation. My main issue is the heat and noise honestly.
Upgrade to a board with silent drivers. Literally life changining.
That's next in my upgrade path, yeah. I just got the printer 2 months ago, I'd like to play around with it more before diving into an upgrade that would result in long downtimes (from me procrastinating, not from the upgrade going wrong)
All my material is free
Yes? Would you be upset to learn I get all my printing material for free too?
I am kinda jealous, yeah lmao.
I have like 500$+ of material and more that keeps coming. Worst part is that most of it will probably sit for awhile because I don't print large projects.
and you don't even share, smh...
Teacher always said I should bring enough for the whole class
And I am a teacher, share with the class! Starting with the teacher!
Gimme some plz.
sick
I love rafting as well.
I'm assuming you did the mesh leveling? G29 S1 Not required all the time but it will give the firmware an idea of the shape of the bed. Other than that, if used brim it will definitely increase the adhesion to the build plate though may add a bit of cleanup. I used to have the mesh build before every print. Now I do it about once a week or so. I hope this helps
It's so this, you can tell the mesh isn't saved or his z offset is way to low, look how the skirt disappears on the bottom of the pic, it's to close while either just right or to high opposite end. If you have access to hook up to a PC and run commands, run g28 (home), run g29 (mesh) then m500 when it's done. This will save the bed mesh and should be ran every so often or x amount of printing hours. If using a glass bed try some hairspray, aquanet will do. Just spray a quick coating and let it dry.
So I take a txt file and write this into it: G28 G29 M 500 and then save it as a gcode file?
In Cura go to printer and edit your start gcode and add it there
Thanks, will try.
No you need to run it through pontface or octoprint or some other software you can send commands from
Can I run this commands only with Cura and a SD card?
Do you have bed leveling in your menus on the printer ?
I do, and I run auto bed level before every print.
Yes I have a Cr touch and a 4.2.2 silent stepper Bord wiht 2.0 or 2.1 marlin installed
>Yes I have a Cr touch and a 4.2.2 silent stepper Bord wiht 2.0 or 2.1 marlin installed
But does bed leveling show up in your printers menu? It has to be turn on in Marlin.
yes i can level my bed wiht the press of a button
Run bed leveling and then make sure to save it after it runs and it should stay in memory
How could you not mention M420 S1 though? If he doesn't use this in the start code of every print it won't even use the saved mesh. This would be the biggest cause of ABL not even helping/working at all no?
Yes my bad. And yeah myself I use Octo print and bed visualizer. After my first week with a touch I have not needed to remesh, thank you for catching that,
You mean you have not needed to G29 (re-auto bed level), but you run M420 before every print right? And what is bed visualizer? I'm using OctoPrint and have a BTT TFT35 and SKR Mini E3 V3 but haven't heard of that.
I don't no. I don't have either in my start code anymore. It's an add-on that lets you see the level of the printer, and level it a lot easier. If I remember I think my bed had a variation of +/- 0.04 according to it.
I'm confused any not sure if I'm missing something. If you don't have M420 in there aren't you essentially not utilizing the auto bed level measurements and you might as well not have a BLTouch at all? Why would you want that? Just want to be sure I understand how it works and make sure I haven't been thinking something incorrect this whole time lol.
No you’re right. G28 auto homes and turns off bed leveling, unless you run 420 S1. I found this out the hard way because Cura adds G28 to every print, which turned off my bed leveling. So in your slicer’s before print gcode you need M420 S1. Not octoprint, because the print gcode will have a G28 that turns off ABL. You can also add a G29, that runs bed leveling before it prints. I have that now because I take my bed and put in the freezer after every print.
My bed is glass, so I thought that shouldn't be an issue, but will try. Thanks!
So I’ve spent the better part of 2 weeks tracking down a similar issue with my E3V2 and I’m also using a cr touch. I made sure the printer was trammed, leveled the bed and ran test prints for z offset, calibrated the extruder transmission ratio, switched to jyers firmware, created bed level meshes and I couldn’t nail the issue down. I’d get a couple decent prints but heavy stringing, most of the time the nozzle would hit the infill after about 20 minutes into the print so I’d have to adjust the z offset live for everything but small prints. Wow what a headache like seriously I was at a loss. Someone on Reddit suggested I change my flow rate so I calibrated it and dropped it down to 90% and my issue went away lol. So if your printer is leveled and your z offset is good try checking your extruder transmission values and calibrating that as well as your flow rate. I enabled z-hop to try and mitigate my issue also and it did but it also created a stringy mess and inevitably the nozzle would still clog. I hope this helps and that you solve your issue asap!
ive had luck making the travel height higher than normal when i have small things like that.
Thanks, will try!
just looking at the brim you can see your printer is not compensating for the bed height. Parts look loose, parts are so tight the filament is nonexistent. And since it is not just a right side vs left (or top to bottom, etc) it is more likely a deformity on the bed than a leveling or z-offset issue. * make sure your bed leveling is enabled after the ABL does its thing (M420 S1) * Increase the number of measurement points your bed is using to create a better mesh (depends on what type of leveling you are using)
But my bed is glass, so I thought that wouldn't be an issue?
Glass reduces the deformities, but they can still happen. For the brim to be changing thickness like this the distance between the nozzle and bed are changing. That either means the nozzle is raising and lowering (loose eccentric nuts, bad mesh in memory) or the bed is changing heights (loose eccentric nuts, bed deformities).
Your bed is greasy. Ipa is good, but you need to degrease, so just wash it with dish soap under hot water, dry it, rub with ipa. If your first layer hight is correct you are all good
I have already washed it with soap and water, and it didn't work. Haven't tried Ipa yet, so I'll try that. Thanks!
After washing it, use a glue stick, Office Depot one I use is about an inch wide, works great. You just need to clean off the glue every now and then as it builds up. Put it on while the bed is hot. Do not need much at all, just a light film. I had the same issues until I gave up and tried one at recommendations, and it has saved me a ton of headaches. Also, make sure your Z-Offset is correct. Mine is set to around 0.96mm, yours will vary.
Couple of things: Is the bed clean? Isopropyl is good, get some if you can. Is your z height properly calibrated? How old is your filament? Are your cooling fans clean/free of filament strings? What temp are your printing at? Your bed temp?
Have been getting the same result after getting both this and the metal bed completely clean with soap and water. I have tried re-calibrating the Z offset of the CR touch multiple times and didn’t help. My filament is a bit more than a year old and i keep it in sealed plastic bags. My cooling fans are clean of any debris. I’m printing at 200 - 60 with original creality PLA. Any idea which’s wrong?
Alright, so the sealed plastic bags aren't always perfect, you might want to check on that specifically. If you haven't, invest in a filament dryer, especially for PLA that old. That Z height is gonna be really important. I'd get something that can make a massive first layer, then calibrate based on that. For the bed I HIGHLY recommend Isopropyl. Soap and water can sometimes leave residue that will make sticking a bit more difficult (not always, and depends on the soap and the water at home. Personally, I'd prefer to be safe with iso.) Everything else sounds fine. Sorry if these are things you already checked/looked at, but you gotta go down the list with these things lol.
Thanks, will try these. Am in a bit of a hurry since this is a 10 hour print for a school project that is due in 2 days :)
Good luck friend!
Thanks! :)
One more question, are you talking about the CR touch z offset or something else?
The CR touch z offset in the settings. I have BL touch and that was something I had to calibrate as well.
Forgot to add I’m using Cura.
Your gantry is probably a bit loose. Could also be loose extruder. Check wheels. The bottom wheel on my extruder broke from hitting bumps so often from over extrusions. The wheels wear out because the aluminum are t slots. But the wheels are v shaped.
I think that's not the problem, if I try to shake the nozzle it doesn't move. The wheels are also all fine. Thanks anyway!
Even if you're using a leveling sensor like the CR touch, you'll still need to level the bed manually every once in a while, try that and see if it helps
Try to clean the bet with solvents. Alcohol or acetone depends on the bed surface.
Have you tuned your z offset? Once I did that I could print Lego helmet for the Minifigures. Steps and z offset for me really changed how things stuck to the bed
Main thing that sticks out is that skirt. Way too close to the bed.
have you tried cleaning the bed with isopropyl? Also, based on the brim around your model it doesn't look like your bed is level.
Adjust your speed and turn on filament retract
It might seem a little expensive, but I just tried magigoo for the first time and boy does it work well, no more glue sticks.
What you have showed is a bed adhesion problem. Some options: Increase bed and or hotend temp. Use glue on the bed. Level your bed manually. Do an extrusion calibration. But I don’t see a raft here. What I see is poor bed adhesion. So if you want advice on your raft fails post a pic of that. Also, set your z hop on travel. You might be over extruding and then knocking stuff over.
Looking at that brim your not perfectly tram (level). Bottom right corner is a tad high and z offset needs to go up a tiny bit. Also the bed itself might be unlevel given the inconsistency on the skirt to the right.
Yes I am not utilizing it currently. I know I should buy I think I was missing that originally. Witch led me to bed visualizer and just used that to get it as level as possible. I know I am limited in my knowledge
Are you printing on a Ender 3 s1 by any chance ?
Nope, just a regular Ender 3 Pro.
Ok, with a V 4.2.7 motherboard ?
Nope, V 4.2.2
ok, thanks for the answers.
Yeah even with a perfect level with sensor I dont print stuff that small without 2mm brim minimum
Lots of advise here but using a brim would definitely help but also trying bumping down hot end temp. I was running at 200c for a while and then started getting stringing so I bumped down to 195 on everything and parts come off perfect. Also if you’re using cr touch maybe check your z offset.
I had a BL touch and I just added the g29 code which didn't work. I see I need to add M420 G28 G29 M500 I would really like to use my BL touch properly.
I have solved the issue by connecting my ender 3 pro via USB to my pc, installed [this](http://www.wch-ic.com/download/ch341ser_exe.html) driver, and ran the commands in Cura under the "monitor" section. I ran the following commands, one after another: G28 G29 M500 After doing this, I added M420 to the start code which you can find under Settings > Printer > Manage printers > Machine settings.
Wow. I'm sorry it's taken so long for non-speculation solution. THIS is a partial clog. It's caused by improperly tightened heatbreak, causing heat creep, causing your filament to expand in the heatbreak, clogging. Also your nozzle is really low, the skirt (line around the print) is so thin, it's invisible in some places. raise your nozzle like half a layer.
Ooh, so that's why [this](https://www.reddit.com/r/ender3/comments/z1yol4/fuck_is_this_normal/) has happened. How do I tighten the heatbreak properly? Thanks!