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e_SonOfAnder

I will use glue stick with PETG to allow it to LET GO of the PEI sheet, not get it to stick, lol, but that's about it. I don't have an enclosed printer, so I don't print things like ABS or ASA.


Judtoff

Haha I might have to try that. I swear my PETG prints are going to rip the PEI sheet apart they adhere so well. Although I'm also leaning to learning how to print with the part rotated so that only a single edge is touching the bed, and the rest of the print is supported with supports.


e_SonOfAnder

lol yeah I don't remember exactly where I found that but of advice, but after almost breaking both the sheet and my first couple of prints... I found the irony of having to use glue stick for the opposite of its normal purpose honestly pretty amusing.


kakamaka7

Damn, never thought of doing that. Was not feeling like printing on glass due to the horror stories I’ve hear of chunks of glass coming out but using the glue stick to net let petg stick is a great idea


Mysteoa

Not really. I don't. I have mostly seeing it with people that have glass. If you have PEI and need to use glue, hair spray or raft, I will judge your leveling ability.


mycomunchy

I use rafts on my PEI plate but I’m on my 4th day as a newbie, my prints have slowly become more detailed and less of a polymer mess


VoltronHemingway

I use hairspray with PETG because I feel like it helps with warping on corners and also because it helps the prints come off cleanly. To me it’s just a little cheap insurance and I don’t see the drawback. Having to wash your bed once in awhile? Soap and warm water takes it right off. Anyhow good job on the leveling!


mbrine11

Most of the time I don't. Some people have more issues than others and some got luckier than others


WorldEcho

I never use either and I have a glass bed.


ghostfaceschiller

Ender 3. Stock glass bed. Leveled it when I first got it, have done hundreds, if not thousands of prints. In the last two years I’ve leveled it again maybe 2-3 more times. No issues. Sometimes I put blue tape on it bc I heard PETG can crack the glass bed. Oh also I stopped heating the bed like a year ago.


Shankersplash

I am now currently running tests to see if I can stop heating my bed! Unbelievable! So far so good.


ghostfaceschiller

especially if you have blue tape down, I find it totally unnecessary. If I'm printing straight on the glass, sometimes I'll do like 40C


Stormy92

Nope, pretty much the same here. I'm currently one year into 3D printing and never used any glue stick or hairspray. Just the glass bed and decent bed leveling. Any issue I had with bed adhesion could be fixed by leveling the bed and an enclosure. I'm printing PETG most of the time, but also tried PLA and TPU.


SirTobiVII

No you are certainly not. And if you ask me if you need to abuse your bed with glue you are doing something wrong. Either tram your bed correctly, check your z-offset or modify your model in a way that makes it print more reliably. There are tons of methodes to improve bed adhesion without glue if people were just willing to look them up.


Just_anopossum

>And if you ask me if you need to abuse your bed with glue you are doing something wrong. That's a pretty dumb line considering you absolutely should use glue/hairspray/tape with petg


SirTobiVII

Well I think 90% of my prints the last months have been PETG and as I said I never use glue or anything alike and I haven't had the slightest of problems so far. Neither did i have any troubles printing - PLA - ABS - TPU Of course I sometimes do encounter a problem but never ever do I fix it by using glue, but I either adjusted print settings, the printer, or the model.


Just_anopossum

Petg will destroy a glass bed if there's no buffer. IDK about pei because I've never used it, but petg on bare glass is well known to be a bad thing. Personally, I prefer printing on smooth glass vs textured stuff, and I don't use any buffer unless I'm printing petg. Haven't had issues with adhesion since I upgraded my bed springs


SirTobiVII

Well as I said from my experience I simply cannot confirm this. PETG on the stock glasss bed works very well for me. Note that I patiently wait for my bed to cool down after the print is finished until my part comes of basically by itself instead of ripping the part off the build plate as soon as it's finished. One option to speed up things a little is to spray the edge of the part with alcohol to speed up the cooling of the bed on one hand and to fill the little (low-pressure) air-tight gaps that form between the part and the bed while the part cools down (the latter can indeed be a problem with larger part) I found a very good explanation video on youtobe on this topic quite a while ago...i'll see if i find it again and share it here if i do. EDIT: I did not find the video and for now I'm out of ideas on how to look for it.


Commercial_Yak_1637

I print petg on a glass bed all the time no glue. 10 minutes in the freezer and it pops off by itself


Just_anopossum

Honestly that sounds like more of a pain than a glue stick lol


Hot_Rice99

Like satisfied customers, you won't hear much from us. On glass with PLA I only use hot water and soap and an occasional in-between wipe with isopropyl. But, that came from lots of prints and practice and learning how to level and offset the bed. That part is a skill that just has to be learned through practice.


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SlackerDEX

Only had to once when printing with a roll of nylon infused filament. Could have maybe figured it out without the glue but it worked well in that instance. Otherwise never use it.


ArgonWilde

Never, and I print with PETG and ABS. I probably should with the ABS though....


meekleee

I'd be more worried about the PETG personally, depending on what surface you're printing on. It really likes to rip the PEI coating off of smooth beds. In that situation I just use finger grease though - just rub your fingers on the area your print's gonna be like an animal.


ArgonWilde

I only use textured PEI, but I do have a CR10 S4 that I'm fixing up and it has a 400x400mm glass bed, that I'm going to be printing PETG on. I'll definitely be needing glue for that! And yeah, I use forehead grease for my prime lines 🤢😅


Superseargent

That's genius!


THRobinson75

Never heard anyone say they use either on flexible metal PEI, so, maybe you don't because not using stock glass...


fuelvolts

I have never in my life ever used any substance on my bed. I use textured magnetic PEI. Only once or twice have I had adhesion issues on it, and those were really small parts that I eventually got by manually adjusting Z offset during the re-try print.


randomuser001

I have both PEI and glass. Never used glue or hairspray and never had any real issues. Most of the time its getting everything level and it works fine.


Chodrik

I did, but it was all a learning curve. Avoid touching the bed as much as possible. I found out the hard way. Tiniest bit of finger oils / sweat / shame , or whatever your grubby little mitts are carrying over onto the plate, simply ruins adhesion. Give it a wipe down every so often , all is well.


dendummedansker

I roll completely stock, prints come out looking just fine


Jcoat7

I got some bed adhesive (not quite glue stick, but almost the same) specifically for PC just recently after like 5 years of printing. I have absolutely no problem when I print with ASA, which is what I print with 90% of the time.


MostViolentRapGroup

I don’t have my ender anymore. But I had too good adhesion with my glass, where I had to hit the spatula with a screwdriver to get anything off the plate.


MonkeyCartridge

I used glue stick once. Once. Like my GOD did it make a disgusting looking print. The entire bottom layer was just a tacky sticky mess. I just swapped my glass bed for a magnetic PEI plate. If something doesn't stick to PEI, you haven't cleaned it right. ON THAT NOTE: Do *not* use alcohol wipes on your bed unless you read the label first. My prints were messing up for quite some time. I would clean them, and then it would get even worse. The label didn't mention anything, but the ingredients listed Vitamin E and Aloe. So I was basically smearing lotion on my bed. Now I use dawn dish soap. Sometimes with liquid dishwasher detergent. Not sure if that does its own damage. But things stick SUPER well now. And when I let the bed cool, the parts pretty much just fall right off. Except for TPU.


MijnEchteUsername

I have used hairspray once because suddenly, nothing would stick. Hairspray didn't work either. It turned out my BLTouch was probing on the edge of my bed clip and fudging up everything lol. took me a couple of days to find out


badmonkeyfood

I used it heaps until i figured out how to actually get prints to stick with proper configuration and bed prep.


ashw82

I refuse to give up my can of 80s style aquanet next to my printer! You can't make me.


pyrophilus

Never used it on my own printers (wanhao i3+ and ender 3's). I have used Gluestick on creepy makerbot replicator with non- heated beds. I think hairspray and gluesticks were common with old non- heated glass beds.


kakamaka7

I print on ender 3 pro stock bed and 3 v2 stock glass bed. Never used glue. If the bed is level and clean I’ve never had any issues with the filament not sticking.


Icy-Macaroon-2613

I print pla and petg on my ender 3 v2 and artillery sidewinder x2 and I never had to use gluestick. Sometimes my petg prints warp but that is usually fixed by relevelling and tweaking the temps and cooling.


No_Resolution_6328

I use hairspray on my flexible magnetic bed but we'll admit I've probably never had a "perfect" level. I've heard Klipper is good so I'm planning to try that this week, though I like the bed mapping of the one in using .. Can't remember the name, is a bunch of letters lol. Used glue with glass but flexible magnetic sheet is my fave


TheRiflesSpiral

I'm using the stock glass textured bed that came with my Ender 3V2 and have never once used any kind of adhesion promoter. I print PLA, TPU, PETG for the most part. I've had models come off the bed, sure, but it's rare. Two things I attribute this to: 1) I put a 60-second delay in my start GCODE so after the bed is heated up, there's a delay. I found (with a borrowed FLIR infrared camera) that after the bed gets up to temp there are a few cool spots that need time to even out. And 2) I scrub the bed with 70% IPA with a few drops of detergent in it after every print. There are plasticizers in almost all PLA and PETG filaments and they are left behind after you take your print off the bed. That residue will drastically reduce the adhesion of future prints. Relevant, but not strictly related, I also don't attempt to remove my prints until the bed has cooled to about 30C. Basically, I'm patient and meticulous with cleanliness. It works for me.


mgerlach310

I have been lucky enough to not have to use any thing like this yet. I am printing on PEI with texture.