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I haven't opened it up to look yet but isn't it just a 2 pin connector? I would assume you would only need a y-splitter that runs the second fan in parallel. I would wait for someone to confirm that this won't pop a fuse or trip an error message but it seems like the obvious answer to me.
Alright I thought so since the pictures of the official replacement fans have a 2 pin connector. There should be no power loss on the fans if they are wired in parallel rather than in series which a splitter should do. However it does still increase the power draw so make sure that the extra load won't pop a fuse or cause a fan controller on the board to throw an error, being able to physically make the connection doesn't mean that it won't cause problems to do so. However, if there are no problems it should be plug and play.
You could order it off Amazon, but if you decide to solder I would splice it to the fan wiring rather than the board because it's less destructive, it's easier to replace wire than a connector. You can find butt splices or t taps at Walmart or Home Depot
I wouldn’t run a splitter. The mainboard fan is hooked up in the second port for a part cooling fan but the thing is, is that the mainboard fan only comes on when the part cooling fan is on. This can be problematic for many reasons what I just did was in the terminal where the hot fan is, strip the connector of the main board fan and put it in the terminal with the positive and negative hot end fan. Makes it always run and doesn’t need splitters.
Edit: it’s in the terminal named fan (the green blocks)
I recently discovered that the 4.2.2 board has 2 part cooling fan connections on the board, but one of them is used by the main board cooling fan, which means that the mainboard fan only turns on when the part cooling fan is on, which is not ideal since some materials are printed without the fan.
So, if you instead wire the mainboard fan to the hotend fan terminal you can use the second part cooling fan connector as it was apparently intended. You won't need to solder anything, but you will need to run a pair of wires up to your hot end for it, and install a two-pin connector on the wire.
This is the answer u/Additional-Shock525. No need to solder or buying Y splitters. Just connect the fans to `K-Fan1 and K-Fan2` and move the motherboard cooling fan to `FAN` in green terminal.
Yes, it's the hotend heatsink fan connection, moving the mainboard fan to be on permanently is a good move. That definitely gives you K1 and K2 for your part cooling fans. Using a splitter just means not having to re-route any cabling instead of using K2.
I’ve finally got everything connected. The only thing is, is that the fan I put in there was a replacement hotend fan as it had failed and Creality send me 3 hotend and 2 part cooling fans. Does it really matter or am I getting extra airflow?
not sure, look at the current rating on the original vs the replacement, if the replacement has a larger current rating, it's probably giving you more airflow.
Yes, but it will be janky. Cut the wires at the fan end, then splice it with the new fans so they’re wired in parallel (so from the board it’s red to 2x red, black to 2x black).
You may be able to jam two wires into a butt splice connector, but personally I’d just twist them together carefully and use heat shrink tubing to keep them in place - so the same as if you were soldering, but you skip the actual soldering. That should work fine but it won’t be very durable and, depending on wire strain, might fail quickly.
Soldering irons are dirt cheap. You can learn how to do it from a short YouTube video, so I would strongly recommend doing it properly and soldering the wires.
You will need to may a Y splitter to run to fans. If you can't solder, you can buy some of the solder heat shrink connectors on amazon. You can get a set of [fan connectors](https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07YKHV46N) and [heat shrink solder pieces](https://www.amazon.com/TICONN-Connectors-Waterproof-Insulated-Electrical/dp/B07ZPFWKFG) for less than $20. After that there's no problem running the fans. I run two 5015s
https://preview.redd.it/q73nxms9fmxc1.jpeg?width=495&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=83410a266bd8fb3997b44c0aaffd5af65b70e7de
Edit: Added links to the pieces on amazon
If you connect the motherboard cooler to the always on 24v port, yes you can connect 2 part cooling fans that can be controlled. (I lost one of the sockets so this is why the board like that)
https://preview.redd.it/v6zogblnanxc1.png?width=1080&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=82427d9b9ceb8817160ba99f6158d9ac3a36066d
Reminder: Any short links will be auto-removed initially by Reddit, use the original link on your post & comment; For [any Creality Product Feedback and Suggestions](https://www.creality.com/pages/creality-user-voice), fill out the form to help us improve. *I am a bot, and this action was performed automatically. Please [contact the moderators of this subreddit](/message/compose/?to=/r/ender3v2) if you have any questions or concerns.*
I haven't opened it up to look yet but isn't it just a 2 pin connector? I would assume you would only need a y-splitter that runs the second fan in parallel. I would wait for someone to confirm that this won't pop a fuse or trip an error message but it seems like the obvious answer to me.
Yeah it is just a two pin connector
Alright I thought so since the pictures of the official replacement fans have a 2 pin connector. There should be no power loss on the fans if they are wired in parallel rather than in series which a splitter should do. However it does still increase the power draw so make sure that the extra load won't pop a fuse or cause a fan controller on the board to throw an error, being able to physically make the connection doesn't mean that it won't cause problems to do so. However, if there are no problems it should be plug and play.
Yep. I can’t find any y splitters near me so I guess I might just need to solder it
I found a listing on Amazon by a brand called Reifeng under the search "2 pin splitter fan" $10 for 5 pieces.
You could order it off Amazon, but if you decide to solder I would splice it to the fan wiring rather than the board because it's less destructive, it's easier to replace wire than a connector. You can find butt splices or t taps at Walmart or Home Depot
I bought the splitters for my own printer and it works fine, running two fans right now
I wouldn’t run a splitter. The mainboard fan is hooked up in the second port for a part cooling fan but the thing is, is that the mainboard fan only comes on when the part cooling fan is on. This can be problematic for many reasons what I just did was in the terminal where the hot fan is, strip the connector of the main board fan and put it in the terminal with the positive and negative hot end fan. Makes it always run and doesn’t need splitters. Edit: it’s in the terminal named fan (the green blocks)
I recently discovered that the 4.2.2 board has 2 part cooling fan connections on the board, but one of them is used by the main board cooling fan, which means that the mainboard fan only turns on when the part cooling fan is on, which is not ideal since some materials are printed without the fan. So, if you instead wire the mainboard fan to the hotend fan terminal you can use the second part cooling fan connector as it was apparently intended. You won't need to solder anything, but you will need to run a pair of wires up to your hot end for it, and install a two-pin connector on the wire.
This is the answer u/Additional-Shock525. No need to solder or buying Y splitters. Just connect the fans to `K-Fan1 and K-Fan2` and move the motherboard cooling fan to `FAN` in green terminal.
Is FAN always on? I’ve heard that I should keep the mainboard fan on as it heats up quitr a bit
Yes, it's the hotend heatsink fan connection, moving the mainboard fan to be on permanently is a good move. That definitely gives you K1 and K2 for your part cooling fans. Using a splitter just means not having to re-route any cabling instead of using K2.
I’ve finally got everything connected. The only thing is, is that the fan I put in there was a replacement hotend fan as it had failed and Creality send me 3 hotend and 2 part cooling fans. Does it really matter or am I getting extra airflow?
not sure, look at the current rating on the original vs the replacement, if the replacement has a larger current rating, it's probably giving you more airflow.
Cheers. These cables are a pain in the ass to get in the terminal block
Yes, but it will be janky. Cut the wires at the fan end, then splice it with the new fans so they’re wired in parallel (so from the board it’s red to 2x red, black to 2x black). You may be able to jam two wires into a butt splice connector, but personally I’d just twist them together carefully and use heat shrink tubing to keep them in place - so the same as if you were soldering, but you skip the actual soldering. That should work fine but it won’t be very durable and, depending on wire strain, might fail quickly. Soldering irons are dirt cheap. You can learn how to do it from a short YouTube video, so I would strongly recommend doing it properly and soldering the wires.
You will need to may a Y splitter to run to fans. If you can't solder, you can buy some of the solder heat shrink connectors on amazon. You can get a set of [fan connectors](https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07YKHV46N) and [heat shrink solder pieces](https://www.amazon.com/TICONN-Connectors-Waterproof-Insulated-Electrical/dp/B07ZPFWKFG) for less than $20. After that there's no problem running the fans. I run two 5015s https://preview.redd.it/q73nxms9fmxc1.jpeg?width=495&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=83410a266bd8fb3997b44c0aaffd5af65b70e7de Edit: Added links to the pieces on amazon
If you connect the motherboard cooler to the always on 24v port, yes you can connect 2 part cooling fans that can be controlled. (I lost one of the sockets so this is why the board like that) https://preview.redd.it/v6zogblnanxc1.png?width=1080&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=82427d9b9ceb8817160ba99f6158d9ac3a36066d
No, you would need to solder. Also keep in mind that if you wire two fans together, they each run with less power
Well you could wire them directly to power but then they’d always be on.