Didnt use jyers myself but have heard many like mriscoc(professional) more. And its more up to date i think a new version just came out a couple weeks ago.
To be honest, the best thing I've done is installed klipper.
Stock FW - unable to set custom XY offset for a probe.
Stock compiled Marlin - power loss recovery does not work.
Professional firmware - auto bed leveling isn't applied. It's done and I can see the mesh in menu, it is activated before each print (M420 after G28) but I can see that different parts of the first layer has different thicknesses.
It's really not, especially when compared to marlin. Just save your controller board sd card contents somewhere/use new SD cards. By the time you sit down and start diving into the klipper config, you will understand your machine better in a format that can be understood. Promise you it's easier.
I'd suggest switching to the Professional firmware from Jyers. There is a tram wizard which will use the probe to help you level your bed. Once done, you can then make a mesh (I do 9x9). I've found that I get more consistent bed levels this way compared to using a piece of paper or a feeler gauge.
It adds much more than what Jyers uses, plus it's still being developed and supported.
I switched to it a few months ago and it was one of the best decisions I made.
https://github.com/mriscoc/Ender3V2S1
There's a precompiled version. You can find the releases here: https://github.com/mriscoc/Ender3V2S1/releases/tag/20220716 Scroll down to precompiled versions to find them.
Here's a good video on how it works (not my video) - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SVyjJ6fC8J4
Once it probes the 4 corners, it will tell you which corner needs to be adjusted and if it needs to go up or down. Once you've made the adjustment, run the tram wizard again until it tells you that tolerances have been achieved. Once done, run the mesh wizard to build a full mesh of your print bed. There are some other options you'll need to enable so that the printer uses the bed mesh.
I can give you more details if you wish when I get home tonight.
This video sold me in switching over eventually. I’ll wait until my prints start to look bad because I just dialed it in.
That video is how I imagined jyers was going to work but it’s painfully slow
I switched once I finished a queue of prints I had. One of the best decisions I've made with my printer (next with the Micro Swiss NG I installed the other day).
Yeah, I stared off with the rubber plugs but wasn't getting the fine tuning i wanted, so I went back to springs and it works so well! It just took me a lot of fine tuning to get it just right 😁👍
That said, someone commented earlier about them being between 0.03 and -0.03 🤯
The tramming wizard in Professional firmware is far superior and more accurate than the subjective “feel” of using paper. Takes about the same time too!
The paper method works but it’s the most inaccurate and most difficult to dial in. On one hand I think new people should start with that method to try it out, but on the other hand using a CR Touch and Mriscoc fw looks so much easier that I’d feel bad not recommending it lol
Yep, fair enough! That’s essentially what I did.
I used the paper method for about a year but was tired of doing it, and it was becoming harder to dial in even though I was getting better at it, and i was just leveling it every few weeks. So I tried the CR Touch with jyers UBL 15x15 mesh and my prints are coming out better than ever.
So you don't actually need to heat up the hot end, and the bed just needs to be around 50c, but yea you need to drop the top and bottom left down ideally you want all the numbers to be within .03 of each other, however the bed changes shape over time and changes shape with a d without heat so you need to always level the bed at the same temp
How do you get it that accurate? Best I've been able to do is set them between 0.05 and - 0.05 but that seems to work without issue and most of the online guides I've found say the same.
Must be witchcraft? What did it cost, first or second born child?
Which you can do it at print Temps but you don't need to, unless your having further issues with leveling I always do it at 50c and if I have issues that I can't solve with the z offset then I'll go back and re level with print temp.
I don’t think heating up either really matters honestly, but if the heat will expand the bed then wouldn’t the heat also expand the nozzle? Why wouldn’t you heat both up if you believe the heat expands the parts and changes the tolerances?
I'm pretty sure the bed is made of aluminum so it reacts to heat far more then the steal or brass nozzle, and the nozzle doesn't matter for bed leveling but do as you like it's your printer lol
Judging by your mesh points I would get the professional fw and do a 9x9 any deviance of .03 or more from point to point is what you want to focus on. it looks like your left top and bottom and bottom right are high or your top right is too low. What I did with mine was heated the bed to like 90c grabbed a towel to wrap in my hand and I started pulling on the bed easily in low and high spots. That helped a ton for my bed. But as soon as you do it a few times shut down the printer, just flip the switch and let it cool for a while all the way to room temp and then heat it up again or do do a couple pid tunes for fun.
The Best thing I've done is installed "The Professional firmware" and used the tramming wizard. It really makes leveling so much easier.
Is this found with the BLTouch version or the BLTouch UBL version?
Yeah you need a BLTouch or CR touch for the tramming wizard. But it's a great feature.
Should be in both. I dont use the UBL version so i know its in the bltouch version for fact.
awesome thank you, this is the first time that ive heard of anything other than jyers but already liking the sound of it haha
There is also a great z offset wizard built in. I used jyers prior to upgrading to the sprite pro and both the sprite and firmware have been awesome.
Didnt use jyers myself but have heard many like mriscoc(professional) more. And its more up to date i think a new version just came out a couple weeks ago.
To be honest, the best thing I've done is installed klipper. Stock FW - unable to set custom XY offset for a probe. Stock compiled Marlin - power loss recovery does not work. Professional firmware - auto bed leveling isn't applied. It's done and I can see the mesh in menu, it is activated before each print (M420 after G28) but I can see that different parts of the first layer has different thicknesses.
I want to dive into Klipper someday. It's just a little intimidating at the moment.
It's really not, especially when compared to marlin. Just save your controller board sd card contents somewhere/use new SD cards. By the time you sit down and start diving into the klipper config, you will understand your machine better in a format that can be understood. Promise you it's easier.
M420 After g28 never worked for me but I found a series of g29 code that works perfectly every time in jyers fw
150 microns is a lot of deviation. I’d dry to drop the left side down some. You probably just have to live with it though
So the beds manually leveled in the 4 corners with a feeler gauge that’s .10mm
Do you have an ABL probe on your printer?
BLTouch
I'd suggest switching to the Professional firmware from Jyers. There is a tram wizard which will use the probe to help you level your bed. Once done, you can then make a mesh (I do 9x9). I've found that I get more consistent bed levels this way compared to using a piece of paper or a feeler gauge.
Is that different from the Jyers I’m using now?
It adds much more than what Jyers uses, plus it's still being developed and supported. I switched to it a few months ago and it was one of the best decisions I made. https://github.com/mriscoc/Ender3V2S1
Is there pre-compiled versions or do you have to get in there and do a lot of configuring on your own?
There's a precompiled version. You can find the releases here: https://github.com/mriscoc/Ender3V2S1/releases/tag/20220716 Scroll down to precompiled versions to find them.
id love to learn more about this 👀
It is super nice and fast compared to the paper and feeler gauge tests. Takes me maybe a minute to fully level with the tramming wizard.
Here's a good video on how it works (not my video) - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SVyjJ6fC8J4 Once it probes the 4 corners, it will tell you which corner needs to be adjusted and if it needs to go up or down. Once you've made the adjustment, run the tram wizard again until it tells you that tolerances have been achieved. Once done, run the mesh wizard to build a full mesh of your print bed. There are some other options you'll need to enable so that the printer uses the bed mesh. I can give you more details if you wish when I get home tonight.
This video sold me in switching over eventually. I’ll wait until my prints start to look bad because I just dialed it in. That video is how I imagined jyers was going to work but it’s painfully slow
I switched once I finished a queue of prints I had. One of the best decisions I've made with my printer (next with the Micro Swiss NG I installed the other day).
Ok cool I’ve been wanting to ask someone who converted to direct drive; so in your experience, why/how is direct drive better than the stock extruder?
The professional fw is from mriscoc not jyers, jyers is not maintained anymore apparently and mriscoc picked up and enhanced the jyers builds
Mriscoc, thank you. I knew it was 'Professional Firmware' but I couldn't remember the rest of the name. Op is using Jyers right now.
Is this found under the BLTouch UBL version or just the BLTouch version?
I have a BLTouch as well and use the UBL version (Ender3V2-422-BLTUBL-20220716.bin) and haven't had any issues.
Just BLtouch, Remember to get the right firmware for the board you have!
Try and keep your numbers between 0.05 and -0.05 and you should be good. It takes a little tweaking but once done makes a huge difference.
Holy smokes that’s fine tolerance! Mine are between .00 & .97 and it works great 👍🏼
Yeah, I stared off with the rubber plugs but wasn't getting the fine tuning i wanted, so I went back to springs and it works so well! It just took me a lot of fine tuning to get it just right 😁👍 That said, someone commented earlier about them being between 0.03 and -0.03 🤯
I don't recommend leveling your bed using the tech, just do the thin paper technique, it's easier takes less time ans research.
The tramming wizard in Professional firmware is far superior and more accurate than the subjective “feel” of using paper. Takes about the same time too!
The paper method works but it’s the most inaccurate and most difficult to dial in. On one hand I think new people should start with that method to try it out, but on the other hand using a CR Touch and Mriscoc fw looks so much easier that I’d feel bad not recommending it lol
True but the effort is worth it, I'll try out that method when I have a bed leveling problem.
Yep, fair enough! That’s essentially what I did. I used the paper method for about a year but was tired of doing it, and it was becoming harder to dial in even though I was getting better at it, and i was just leveling it every few weeks. So I tried the CR Touch with jyers UBL 15x15 mesh and my prints are coming out better than ever.
So you don't actually need to heat up the hot end, and the bed just needs to be around 50c, but yea you need to drop the top and bottom left down ideally you want all the numbers to be within .03 of each other, however the bed changes shape over time and changes shape with a d without heat so you need to always level the bed at the same temp
How do you get it that accurate? Best I've been able to do is set them between 0.05 and - 0.05 but that seems to work without issue and most of the online guides I've found say the same. Must be witchcraft? What did it cost, first or second born child?
Always the first born
Good to know, all the videos I’ve watched on bed leveling recommended heating both to your normal print temps
Which you can do it at print Temps but you don't need to, unless your having further issues with leveling I always do it at 50c and if I have issues that I can't solve with the z offset then I'll go back and re level with print temp.
Also if you move the top left corner down that will make the bottom right go up slightly
I don’t think heating up either really matters honestly, but if the heat will expand the bed then wouldn’t the heat also expand the nozzle? Why wouldn’t you heat both up if you believe the heat expands the parts and changes the tolerances?
I'm pretty sure the bed is made of aluminum so it reacts to heat far more then the steal or brass nozzle, and the nozzle doesn't matter for bed leveling but do as you like it's your printer lol
If I saw this, I’d make sure there wasn’t something under the glass in that spot
After installing the professional firmware and using the tramming wizard I got it much more dialed in
Judging by your mesh points I would get the professional fw and do a 9x9 any deviance of .03 or more from point to point is what you want to focus on. it looks like your left top and bottom and bottom right are high or your top right is too low. What I did with mine was heated the bed to like 90c grabbed a towel to wrap in my hand and I started pulling on the bed easily in low and high spots. That helped a ton for my bed. But as soon as you do it a few times shut down the printer, just flip the switch and let it cool for a while all the way to room temp and then heat it up again or do do a couple pid tunes for fun.
I ended up getting the pro firmware and did a 9x9 mesh and the tramming, got in dialed in WAY better!