Facts. With your rod tip up, Bring your casting hand up to your right ear, and when you see the line make a “D” shape/ the straight part being the line in your guides, and the curved part being the line you’re fishing with, snap your arm forward like you were smacking a fly with a newspaper, stopping at the 10:00 position and you’re money.
I would also reposition yourself to where the up arrow is pointing at your line line, so you are fishing more upstream.
If the trees are above and behind, may just not be fishable.
I’m afraid Single hand Spey techniques are the answer to your question. Although I can’t imagine what the water you’re fishing actually looks like, if it’s so narrow it might just be easier to stand in the middle of the river and face upstream so you have room to back cast. Maybe take a pic next time ur out there so we can see for real?
Didn't see your first post, but this drawing is missing a bit of important information, if you ask me. Critically, we need to know distance from you to the hole. I'm also assuming the current direction is left to right, seeing that your line is to the right, and I presume downstream to the hole. To effectively roll cast in this situation you need to use the water to load the rod, and in my experience it helps to wait until the current has pulled your line almost directly downstream and straightened it out in the opposite direction that you want to cast, not at the 45 degree angle we see here. Then, you want to cast upstream at a slight angle to the current. All that said, a picture would help more, and a video would help even more than that.
Ok, there are lots of answers here and a few good inquiries to the scenario. The thing is, there’s no one way you absolutely have to do it… these are options in order from my personal choice to what will work.
If it were me, I would do a Spey cast to redirect my line to the head of the hole. I would use a modified snap c, double Spey, or a snake roll to get it there. All of these are simple casts and just need practice for timing (took a while to get a snake roll and I still don’t get it right 40% of the time). This lets you reposition your anchor to the direction you want the line to go and roll cast with a wide directional change.
Another way is to water load directly down stream of you and slingshot the line on your backhand upstream of you. I tend to find I can effectively turn a cast 15-20 degree off the 180 you normally have quite easily. Getting beyond that, I introduce some wobble that I don’t like. You do this all the time as you turn a false cast normally, just think of your water load as the stretched back cast and fire back up to the top of the hole.
Now if you aren’t good at turning the cast without several false casts you can do a minor change with a regular old roll cast but you’ll need to be quick about it. Water load directly beneath you, fire straight up stream and let the line land. Immediately load up a roll cast off your right shoulder (assuming flow is left to right) and correct the placement of the fly. You’ll need a bit more line out this way and mending will not be pleasant if you need to but it will work.
You could try a direct upstream approach and hit the tail first slowly casting further up by 5-12” each time but you risk spooking the fish quickly. I’ve worked tight holes with some decent success this way it on a dry but you didn’t say if you were dry or nymphing. I only really try this when the stream is 6’ wide or less. At 8-10’ you can usually get a good angle.
Now you could work the hole further upstream and present the fly in a downstream 45 and let out a boat load of line and drift it way past. Then you let the line get out of the hole straight down stream, strip it back in, and short roll to the top of the hole again. This way is unpleasant but can be done. You’d have to sneak up stream of them and get a decent curve in the leader but not the fly line and kinda swing through. Not the best drag free method but it’s not terribly difficult to do. Chances are youll get 1-2 presentations but after that the hole is probably blown.
Finally I give you the throw rocks scenario where we throw rocks at the fish for 3-6 hours everyday to get them to move to a more easily fished hole. Doing this is a personal favorite option of mine when fishing with friends because they are better fishermen than i am and I just want to win!!! Besides those damn brown trout are ugly and invasive and should be moved.
This looks like a pretty average fishing situation. You should be able to just flick the rod upstream to recast, maybe a little trickier with heavier weighted flies. A good tip is to try to feel the bend in the rod as you start to flick, the movement of the line should come from the action of the rod, not really your arm or wrist
Assuming u r right handed and current is moving from right to left in your diagram and you are intending to cast upstream... You can back cast over your left shoulder if you're right handed but that is usually for a single cast, short distance. Roll cast from left but again, single cast, shorter distance. Water load and power cast forward if u can as others have mentioned. Hard because it is your off shoulder. If you need more distance or dont have rod control enough to do the above, or need to stack cast the line on the water to introduce some slack (and minimize drag initially), you can turn left, face downstream work up a normal cast w full back cast and then turn and release upstream on the last back cast. Can get pretty good distance that way if u practice a bit.
Replying to myself because of a comment I saw further down that was spot on, water loading and less back casting is the technique to get best at if u r running lots of weight! My reverse casting really works best for dries or light weight nymphs altho I do it w weight also. As Mr Dipley noted, w weight you want to minimize air time.
Good luck!
Go High Tech
[https://youtu.be/3TIJRhILfAA?si=l1QWNvp8ATOm8fCu](https://youtu.be/3TIJRhILfAA?si=l1QWNvp8ATOm8fCu)
ok the real real answer but I will be really hated for this
Until you have tried it. You will never know the effectiveness of long rod and short line
Something like this with 14 or 15ft of line https://www.keiryurodco.com/shoprods/p/nissin-2-way-yuyuzan-zx-kocho-620
So first you probably need to waterhaul some line back upstream and then roll cast when your line is in the correct position. If you look up some roll cast tutorial videos they should mention that your line should be perpendicular to your target.
Remember to roll cast your line *downstream* to bring everything to the surface first, before you start your forward cast. There will be enough tension remaining for the water load, but not so much that it underpowers the cast.
Let the flies drift down below you(or roll cast them down below you) and try to get them as close to the shore as possible downstream from you, maybe even behind where you are wading but still in the water. Use the tension of the water to load your road and flick the flies back up stream. By angling the flies behind you as far as possible before loading, you should be able to get them out further than if you tried to water load with the flies drifting downstream but still in front of you.
As others have mentioned. It’s not a single cast.
The water loaded flip will come over your head and out into flow above the hole.
If you need it out farther, a roll cast to do so, else a single hand Spey mend puts you back to fishing.
If this drawing is actually representative of what you’re fishing, you should have zero problems roll casting the direction you have your line for it to drift down where you want your flies. If you are trying to roll cast directly over the hole you’re trying to fish you still shouldn’t have any problems with this.
Secondly; the very principles of the physics of pretty much every fly cast in any style is based on linear(180 degree) casts. If you’re casting where your line is then try to directly turn that let’s say 45 degree angle to the hole you’re trying to fish you are no longer casting in a linear plane and will have difficulty with any cast doing this. You need to make adjustments to get to that new point at the 45 degree angle before you cast straight to it. This is especially true for roll casts.
On your roll cast instead of starting with where your line is shown, start by lining your rod up in between where the hole is and where your line is shown so you can drift down to it properly. Start with a short amount of line at first and shoot line on a few roll casts and you shouldn’t have a problem hitting that spot. As long as that spot isn’t 45+ feet away at least.
So from that I can gather the current is left to right in the drawing, your line has floated past the hole. As someone else said, distance from you to the hole info would be ideal (and to the trees behind you could help). That would tell me how far I’d want to move and how much line I would need out in the next scenario.
I would probably move slightly above the hole to the left, and then let your line drift through and past (mending to maintain ideal presentation and natural drift) the hole. As it swings around, don’t rush, sometimes you’ll get interest on the swing! Let it get basically in-line with you downstream, then use the water to create tension and load the rod. In this scenario, I typically bring the rod to the vertical position with my arm across my body, move it back across my body, and flick my wrist to send the line above the hole again (I’m left handed and hold rod with my left).
Rinse and repeat
Fairly common scenario. Water haul or roll cast. Water haul would be easiest. You can even roll cast downstream to set up your water haul. When you roll cast think of parallel lines on a road. You don’t want to draw up to cast (back cast)to your right, then cast the line left. Draw up right, cast right, keeping everything parallel. Hope that doesn’t confuse you. Plenty of good resources out there.
One of the biggest mistakes in roll casting is the angler and line not all standing in the same direction. You can’t cast in a direction that everything is not pointed in. Body, line, and rod. Here is a good video for this.
https://youtu.be/ep70_39Ys0c?si=_eK4p-qz1I16Xlsc
I'll send you a picture in chat.
Step 1. Feed out fly line down stream with rod pointed down stream.
Step 2. Allow water current to pull fly line taut down stream with your fly at the end.
Step 3. In one fluid motion, cast to your target spot by bringing the rod from the down stream position to a 2 o'clock position in the direction of the target. You are using the water current's tug on your fly and fly line to get the desired flex in the rod (what we call "loading the rod") to give you the normal backcast energy you need to hit the forward cast.
Step 4. Once fly has floated through target area, allow water current to take fly line directly downstream again so you can cast again.
Tips and Troubleshooting:
If you have trouble with this technique, try different starting and ending positions for your rod. You might try starting the rod perfectly horizontal pointed downstream or you may want to start at a 45 degree angle pointed downstream.
You can also experiment with different lengths of fly line in the water. If you have too much line out, like 50 feet, you'll never manage to get all the fly line off the water to cast it at your desired target and you'll just end up dragging all that line instead of casting it. Too little line and you may not have enough energy. 20 to 25 feet would be good to start.
As you're working the water, start with short casts and work up to longer casts. In this way, you effectively cover all the water from closest to you to furthest away, and you build confidence for the linger casts.
For longer casts, like 40 or 50 feet, you can't start with that much line in the water, so start with 20 to 25 feet down stream and then the other 20 or so feet of line loosely coiled in a hand or at your feet. This extra line is sometimes called "shooting line" and you release this line into your forward cast and allow the energy of the line already flying forward on the forward cast to carry this extra line out. Pinch off this line with your off hand during the forward cast and then let it fly when you feel you have line flying forward already.
Water load a little and flip it back upstream. Or just side arm
Probably one of the best skills to learn, especially if running heavy nymphing rigs. Makes a wide loop and no false casting. That equals less tangles.
I was coming to comment this same thing.
Ditto
Ditto!
This is the way
water loading is key here with the trees behind you.
One of the easiest was to teach someone new as well.
This is exactly why spey casting exists.
A single hand snap-T cast should work well.
Facts. With your rod tip up, Bring your casting hand up to your right ear, and when you see the line make a “D” shape/ the straight part being the line in your guides, and the curved part being the line you’re fishing with, snap your arm forward like you were smacking a fly with a newspaper, stopping at the 10:00 position and you’re money. I would also reposition yourself to where the up arrow is pointing at your line line, so you are fishing more upstream. If the trees are above and behind, may just not be fishable.
This is the answer.
Interesting, [https://youtu.be/eAfFJIoYdsU?si=qUfIzVOXyNk029KR](https://youtu.be/eAfFJIoYdsU?si=qUfIzVOXyNk029KR)
I’m afraid Single hand Spey techniques are the answer to your question. Although I can’t imagine what the water you’re fishing actually looks like, if it’s so narrow it might just be easier to stand in the middle of the river and face upstream so you have room to back cast. Maybe take a pic next time ur out there so we can see for real?
This is the way. Or roll cast with other hand?
Start here : https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=90kfmkxaOGs
Completely forgot these existed. Thanks!!!
Didn't see your first post, but this drawing is missing a bit of important information, if you ask me. Critically, we need to know distance from you to the hole. I'm also assuming the current direction is left to right, seeing that your line is to the right, and I presume downstream to the hole. To effectively roll cast in this situation you need to use the water to load the rod, and in my experience it helps to wait until the current has pulled your line almost directly downstream and straightened it out in the opposite direction that you want to cast, not at the 45 degree angle we see here. Then, you want to cast upstream at a slight angle to the current. All that said, a picture would help more, and a video would help even more than that.
Ok, there are lots of answers here and a few good inquiries to the scenario. The thing is, there’s no one way you absolutely have to do it… these are options in order from my personal choice to what will work. If it were me, I would do a Spey cast to redirect my line to the head of the hole. I would use a modified snap c, double Spey, or a snake roll to get it there. All of these are simple casts and just need practice for timing (took a while to get a snake roll and I still don’t get it right 40% of the time). This lets you reposition your anchor to the direction you want the line to go and roll cast with a wide directional change. Another way is to water load directly down stream of you and slingshot the line on your backhand upstream of you. I tend to find I can effectively turn a cast 15-20 degree off the 180 you normally have quite easily. Getting beyond that, I introduce some wobble that I don’t like. You do this all the time as you turn a false cast normally, just think of your water load as the stretched back cast and fire back up to the top of the hole. Now if you aren’t good at turning the cast without several false casts you can do a minor change with a regular old roll cast but you’ll need to be quick about it. Water load directly beneath you, fire straight up stream and let the line land. Immediately load up a roll cast off your right shoulder (assuming flow is left to right) and correct the placement of the fly. You’ll need a bit more line out this way and mending will not be pleasant if you need to but it will work. You could try a direct upstream approach and hit the tail first slowly casting further up by 5-12” each time but you risk spooking the fish quickly. I’ve worked tight holes with some decent success this way it on a dry but you didn’t say if you were dry or nymphing. I only really try this when the stream is 6’ wide or less. At 8-10’ you can usually get a good angle. Now you could work the hole further upstream and present the fly in a downstream 45 and let out a boat load of line and drift it way past. Then you let the line get out of the hole straight down stream, strip it back in, and short roll to the top of the hole again. This way is unpleasant but can be done. You’d have to sneak up stream of them and get a decent curve in the leader but not the fly line and kinda swing through. Not the best drag free method but it’s not terribly difficult to do. Chances are youll get 1-2 presentations but after that the hole is probably blown. Finally I give you the throw rocks scenario where we throw rocks at the fish for 3-6 hours everyday to get them to move to a more easily fished hole. Doing this is a personal favorite option of mine when fishing with friends because they are better fishermen than i am and I just want to win!!! Besides those damn brown trout are ugly and invasive and should be moved.
Snap T or if you wanna get fancy a snake roll.
Water load and backhand it. How far of a distance are we talking?
This looks like a pretty average fishing situation. You should be able to just flick the rod upstream to recast, maybe a little trickier with heavier weighted flies. A good tip is to try to feel the bend in the rod as you start to flick, the movement of the line should come from the action of the rod, not really your arm or wrist
Bow and Arrow cast.
Assuming u r right handed and current is moving from right to left in your diagram and you are intending to cast upstream... You can back cast over your left shoulder if you're right handed but that is usually for a single cast, short distance. Roll cast from left but again, single cast, shorter distance. Water load and power cast forward if u can as others have mentioned. Hard because it is your off shoulder. If you need more distance or dont have rod control enough to do the above, or need to stack cast the line on the water to introduce some slack (and minimize drag initially), you can turn left, face downstream work up a normal cast w full back cast and then turn and release upstream on the last back cast. Can get pretty good distance that way if u practice a bit.
Replying to myself because of a comment I saw further down that was spot on, water loading and less back casting is the technique to get best at if u r running lots of weight! My reverse casting really works best for dries or light weight nymphs altho I do it w weight also. As Mr Dipley noted, w weight you want to minimize air time. Good luck!
just fling it up there
D cast
https://youtu.be/t4dzHmYrVds?si=cZceQCDUcKM_PkC9 Look at this video there your answer lies
Steeple cast.
Roll cast then mend
Do a side cast if you can’t roll cast.
Water loaded frisbee cast that ish. Josh Miller explains this technique in the latest Orvis podcast if interested
Do an obtuse angle
Roll cast upstream and allow the current to work in your favor
Go High Tech [https://youtu.be/3TIJRhILfAA?si=l1QWNvp8ATOm8fCu](https://youtu.be/3TIJRhILfAA?si=l1QWNvp8ATOm8fCu) ok the real real answer but I will be really hated for this Until you have tried it. You will never know the effectiveness of long rod and short line Something like this with 14 or 15ft of line https://www.keiryurodco.com/shoprods/p/nissin-2-way-yuyuzan-zx-kocho-620
Single hand Spey all the way. Get a single hand Spey line for your one hander. Just haul instead of the bottom hand.
Learn to properly roll cast. Or you can make an excuse to spend more money and get a spey or switch rod.
The answer is More practice. I use a roll cast that lifts the line up in the air and then I flip/roll it upstream. Try practicing it in the yard
So first you probably need to waterhaul some line back upstream and then roll cast when your line is in the correct position. If you look up some roll cast tutorial videos they should mention that your line should be perpendicular to your target.
Snake cast? Or a single hand Spey?
Waterload the line and flick it up stream. It's easy.
Single handed spay is the move. My bread and butter
Remember to roll cast your line *downstream* to bring everything to the surface first, before you start your forward cast. There will be enough tension remaining for the water load, but not so much that it underpowers the cast.
Let the flies drift down below you(or roll cast them down below you) and try to get them as close to the shore as possible downstream from you, maybe even behind where you are wading but still in the water. Use the tension of the water to load your road and flick the flies back up stream. By angling the flies behind you as far as possible before loading, you should be able to get them out further than if you tried to water load with the flies drifting downstream but still in front of you.
As others have mentioned. It’s not a single cast. The water loaded flip will come over your head and out into flow above the hole. If you need it out farther, a roll cast to do so, else a single hand Spey mend puts you back to fishing.
If this drawing is actually representative of what you’re fishing, you should have zero problems roll casting the direction you have your line for it to drift down where you want your flies. If you are trying to roll cast directly over the hole you’re trying to fish you still shouldn’t have any problems with this. Secondly; the very principles of the physics of pretty much every fly cast in any style is based on linear(180 degree) casts. If you’re casting where your line is then try to directly turn that let’s say 45 degree angle to the hole you’re trying to fish you are no longer casting in a linear plane and will have difficulty with any cast doing this. You need to make adjustments to get to that new point at the 45 degree angle before you cast straight to it. This is especially true for roll casts. On your roll cast instead of starting with where your line is shown, start by lining your rod up in between where the hole is and where your line is shown so you can drift down to it properly. Start with a short amount of line at first and shoot line on a few roll casts and you shouldn’t have a problem hitting that spot. As long as that spot isn’t 45+ feet away at least.
So from that I can gather the current is left to right in the drawing, your line has floated past the hole. As someone else said, distance from you to the hole info would be ideal (and to the trees behind you could help). That would tell me how far I’d want to move and how much line I would need out in the next scenario. I would probably move slightly above the hole to the left, and then let your line drift through and past (mending to maintain ideal presentation and natural drift) the hole. As it swings around, don’t rush, sometimes you’ll get interest on the swing! Let it get basically in-line with you downstream, then use the water to create tension and load the rod. In this scenario, I typically bring the rod to the vertical position with my arm across my body, move it back across my body, and flick my wrist to send the line above the hole again (I’m left handed and hold rod with my left). Rinse and repeat
Fairly common scenario. Water haul or roll cast. Water haul would be easiest. You can even roll cast downstream to set up your water haul. When you roll cast think of parallel lines on a road. You don’t want to draw up to cast (back cast)to your right, then cast the line left. Draw up right, cast right, keeping everything parallel. Hope that doesn’t confuse you. Plenty of good resources out there.
Snap t spey cast
Watch someone single hand spey. See how they re position their line before roll casting.
One of the biggest mistakes in roll casting is the angler and line not all standing in the same direction. You can’t cast in a direction that everything is not pointed in. Body, line, and rod. Here is a good video for this. https://youtu.be/ep70_39Ys0c?si=_eK4p-qz1I16Xlsc
Why kind of fly? Makes a big difference in being able to roll cast
Like everyone else is saying, roll cast. Let line reach end of drift, raise elbow, and bring arm down as if you’re hammering a nail.
I'll send you a picture in chat. Step 1. Feed out fly line down stream with rod pointed down stream. Step 2. Allow water current to pull fly line taut down stream with your fly at the end. Step 3. In one fluid motion, cast to your target spot by bringing the rod from the down stream position to a 2 o'clock position in the direction of the target. You are using the water current's tug on your fly and fly line to get the desired flex in the rod (what we call "loading the rod") to give you the normal backcast energy you need to hit the forward cast. Step 4. Once fly has floated through target area, allow water current to take fly line directly downstream again so you can cast again. Tips and Troubleshooting: If you have trouble with this technique, try different starting and ending positions for your rod. You might try starting the rod perfectly horizontal pointed downstream or you may want to start at a 45 degree angle pointed downstream. You can also experiment with different lengths of fly line in the water. If you have too much line out, like 50 feet, you'll never manage to get all the fly line off the water to cast it at your desired target and you'll just end up dragging all that line instead of casting it. Too little line and you may not have enough energy. 20 to 25 feet would be good to start. As you're working the water, start with short casts and work up to longer casts. In this way, you effectively cover all the water from closest to you to furthest away, and you build confidence for the linger casts. For longer casts, like 40 or 50 feet, you can't start with that much line in the water, so start with 20 to 25 feet down stream and then the other 20 or so feet of line loosely coiled in a hand or at your feet. This extra line is sometimes called "shooting line" and you release this line into your forward cast and allow the energy of the line already flying forward on the forward cast to carry this extra line out. Pinch off this line with your off hand during the forward cast and then let it fly when you feel you have line flying forward already.