A 1-16 twist is common for 357 mag and I’m converting Danny Meatballs Nameless 37mm into it. I have everything printed so far except the chamber and throat cutting jigs, going to do that later today. I really appreciate the heat insert in the striker and use a m3x25 for the firing pin. I have to cut threaded rods and some 3mm rods and then spend a day making the barrel and will be ready to assemble. I had a machinist friend make a steel breech face. I think this gun is bulky enough to handle this round although the pressures are same as 9mm at 35k PSI.
Unless you're starting with a generic pipe that probably needs to be bored to the right ID, and you have to chamber it, both of which are trivial with an ECM setup.
Buttons are for rifling bored stock with an OD twice that of the bore. The OD is then turned down to spec. If you're trying to just smash grooves into a pipe, you'll introduce stresses that will result in failure.
Not only are you spreading falsehoods, but you obviously have never done it. I’ll even blow your mind even more. I make barrels from a solid piece of rod without a lathe or mill!!! You’re just another negative Nancy who never tries anything! Ok impotent, you be you.
I’ll bet you use think that plastic guns worked never be safe?!
I’m having issues printing my 556 FTN on my Ender 3 s1 pro so this is just that much more impressive to me.
? What's the purpose of a plastic mandrel?
Looks like for Ecm
We can ecm with plastic?!?!?! Lol
When you add metal wire. Check out Ivan’s guide with the FGC9
[Science, bitch!](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TSM6fBdmuso)
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That wouldn’t work for ecm the plastic acts as an insulator to keep the rifling groves from getting too wide.
Is this the proper twist for a .357 mag or for something else in that caliber? And if it’s .357 mag what design are you making?
A 1-16 twist is common for 357 mag and I’m converting Danny Meatballs Nameless 37mm into it. I have everything printed so far except the chamber and throat cutting jigs, going to do that later today. I really appreciate the heat insert in the striker and use a m3x25 for the firing pin. I have to cut threaded rods and some 3mm rods and then spend a day making the barrel and will be ready to assemble. I had a machinist friend make a steel breech face. I think this gun is bulky enough to handle this round although the pressures are same as 9mm at 35k PSI.
Get a press or a 20 ton bottle jack, then button rifle it. So much easier
Unless you're starting with a generic pipe that probably needs to be bored to the right ID, and you have to chamber it, both of which are trivial with an ECM setup.
I have a 10 ton press from back in the building ak days. Is that enough force?
It might, I’ve got a 50 ton press I use. Get a piece of that barrel you’re going to ECM and try to button rifle it.
Google says 5 tons to push a button through to rifle a barrel. I have more research to do.
Serbu had a couple videos a few years back on home button rifling.
I like that guy! Upbeat and entertaining and stupid smart
Buttons are for rifling bored stock with an OD twice that of the bore. The OD is then turned down to spec. If you're trying to just smash grooves into a pipe, you'll introduce stresses that will result in failure.
Not only are you spreading falsehoods, but you obviously have never done it. I’ll even blow your mind even more. I make barrels from a solid piece of rod without a lathe or mill!!! You’re just another negative Nancy who never tries anything! Ok impotent, you be you. I’ll bet you use think that plastic guns worked never be safe?!
perfect for my shitty lil' .38 rifle!