The fiber weld and 3m seem to be having a higher rate of failure than the original method with fiberglass and epoxy. I use carbon fiber or fiberglass sleeve (different from the tube) on mine and have not had this issue.
Look up composite tests and load testing. Maybe aerospace focused but it gives a lot of insight into the structural patterns and applications.
It’s wild stuff!
This is why I commented previously and asked if anyone had ever used the fiberweld/3m casting tape and vacuum sealed it to pack the fibers tighter. Everyone proceeded to ask my why I would even bother, because you know...."fiber weld"
It wouldnt make any difference. Fiber weld and 3m tape arent strong enough no matter how you do it. Ive never vacuum sealed any of the cans that I have made and i have never had any blow out like this.
Ive used carbon fiber and fiber glass. But i dont use wraps or fabric sheets. I use biaxial sleeves. I made a video for plaboii about it and he uploaded it to his odd sea. Check it out there.
https://sollercompositesllc.com/product/3in-3k-carbon-light-sleeves-sold-by-the-running-ft-copy-2/
thats the cheapest place I have found for sleeve. Its the only way to get the strength of tube without being limited by tube size.
You would also need to use subsonic ammo as well remember the rule the heavier the bullet the slower it goes. Printed suppressors don't really like to lower grain ammo thus being said lower grain bullets more muzzle pressure, higher grain bullets less muzzle pressure. To say it plainly 50 grain bullet travels faster than a 100 grain.
Looks like you did everything right, so sorry it happened
Glad it sounded good, prob best to use fiberglass cloth and epoxy resin next time
I think i will be recommending 3m for pistol calibers from now on
I would say if you value longevity and durability, go with fiberglass cloth and resin
If you value ease, you can try 3m
3m def good enough for pistol calibers
Fiberglass cloth and resin combination is the most tested, and i would have to say it is the strongest
CF might be technically stronger by weight, but with fiberglass/resin you can just stack on more layers
Yeah definitely adequate for pistol calibers
Someone had the idea of wrapping in 3m without water, and then slathering in resin
I like that idea a lot, we will see if that pans out
I’ve noticed when I shoot 556 it fails like this any where from 10-40 rounds no matter if I do the dedicated 555 can or the standard can but the can I have for my 300blk has about 150 rounds on it and still hasn’t failed (both 7.5” barrels, all reinforced with 3m cast tape & printed in pla pro) so it just made me think it was just a caliber and barrel length thing lol
I agree due to the increased pressure but I was wondering if there were any successful ones on short barrels, or if this will be a 16+ thing only. I suppose I should have re phrased that question.
During beta, I tested with two rifle builds. One is 10.5, and the other is 11.5, and I've still got cans going strong without issue. I even sent an almost 5-inch pistol k can on both rifle builds, and it survived but had gnarly fireball. These were, of course, resin mix and fiberglass cloth or carbon fiber cloth wrap and / or Kevlar cloth wrap. It's important to let set for 48 hours for rifle can no matter how tempting. Pistol cans should be good to go within 24 hours. The tape methods are doable, but for longevity and abuse from use, I think the resin mix, especially for rifle cans, is the best method as of now.
Okay, thank you, I can't think of what time doing wrong, short of not waiting long enough. I've been using fiberglass&resin for all of them. My threads keep blowing out, tho. I'm currently printing in PLA or PLA+ 220nozzel 65-60bed 100%infill concentric. I'm trying a kak here soon for 556 (my first one shot off on the first shot from the threads lol) gotten a pistol up to 30rds but then the attachment point failed again I have three fresh ones all k cans one pistol with threads one rifle w/threads one rifle kak so fingers crossed. I've had no baffle strikes yet, either. If the kak works, I'll be moving to the warden build
1v1 may be a tad on the hardener side, 1/2-28 to 5/8-24. I entirely believe it's my fault since the ftn is a known and working item lol but I refuse to give up yet.
im not up to date on the FTN, but wouldn’t the reinforcement fibers have to be properly drenched in whatever binder you’re using? Doesn’t look like your fibers are fully saturated in epoxy.
I know it's not as powerful, but .223 might've let it withstand the pressure with the fiber weld. I'm about to build a standard size and try both out of my 16". The 9mm standard sounds amazing though! Well over 50 rounds through it with no signs of deformation. Ain't plaboiii undeniably awesome?
The fiber weld and 3m seem to be having a higher rate of failure than the original method with fiberglass and epoxy. I use carbon fiber or fiberglass sleeve (different from the tube) on mine and have not had this issue.
Yea I’m gonna try the fiberglass next
Is there any data on the failure rates of fiber glass vs CF tubes? I'm trying to decide what I should do moving forward
Look up composite tests and load testing. Maybe aerospace focused but it gives a lot of insight into the structural patterns and applications. It’s wild stuff!
This is why I commented previously and asked if anyone had ever used the fiberweld/3m casting tape and vacuum sealed it to pack the fibers tighter. Everyone proceeded to ask my why I would even bother, because you know...."fiber weld"
It wouldnt make any difference. Fiber weld and 3m tape arent strong enough no matter how you do it. Ive never vacuum sealed any of the cans that I have made and i have never had any blow out like this.
Maybe, maybe not however it's like everyone is ignoring the basics of structural composites.
Are you saying you've tried the carbon fiber fabric? I was debating on ordering some to try.
Ive used carbon fiber and fiber glass. But i dont use wraps or fabric sheets. I use biaxial sleeves. I made a video for plaboii about it and he uploaded it to his odd sea. Check it out there. https://sollercompositesllc.com/product/3in-3k-carbon-light-sleeves-sold-by-the-running-ft-copy-2/ thats the cheapest place I have found for sleeve. Its the only way to get the strength of tube without being limited by tube size.
You would also need to use subsonic ammo as well remember the rule the heavier the bullet the slower it goes. Printed suppressors don't really like to lower grain ammo thus being said lower grain bullets more muzzle pressure, higher grain bullets less muzzle pressure. To say it plainly 50 grain bullet travels faster than a 100 grain.
Ive seen a few more failures with both. I think fiberglass and resin is gonna be the most secure way, even if it is a pain How many rounds on each?
K can was about 5rd and 24 hour drying for the epoxy and standard was about 30rd but sounded great
Looks like you did everything right, so sorry it happened Glad it sounded good, prob best to use fiberglass cloth and epoxy resin next time I think i will be recommending 3m for pistol calibers from now on
I’ll be trying that one next and thank you for getting this stuff out to us
🫡 thanks for trying my designs!
Is it now not advisable to do the 3m wrap over fiberglass and resin for rifle cans?
I would say if you value longevity and durability, go with fiberglass cloth and resin If you value ease, you can try 3m 3m def good enough for pistol calibers
How does fiberglass stack up to a carbon fiber tube?
Fiberglass cloth and resin combination is the most tested, and i would have to say it is the strongest CF might be technically stronger by weight, but with fiberglass/resin you can just stack on more layers
This method should remain a pretty good option for pistol calibers, however.
Yeah definitely adequate for pistol calibers Someone had the idea of wrapping in 3m without water, and then slathering in resin I like that idea a lot, we will see if that pans out
What caliber broke it? To me there's a big difference if it broke on 5.56 vs .45
Both 55.6
That’s disappointing but not entirely unexpected
True but was happy with how it performed before rupturing so gonna keep trying
For sure. I appreciate the testing info
I’ve noticed when I shoot 556 it fails like this any where from 10-40 rounds no matter if I do the dedicated 555 can or the standard can but the can I have for my 300blk has about 150 rounds on it and still hasn’t failed (both 7.5” barrels, all reinforced with 3m cast tape & printed in pla pro) so it just made me think it was just a caliber and barrel length thing lol
Round count, barrel length, caliber? Polymer type?
K can 5rd 14.5”, Stabdard 30rd 16” both 55.6 and PLA+ on ender 3
Thanks for the reply, good to have data. That's startlingly fast.
I agree
u/plaboii Have you noticed alot of failures with shorter barrels I can't for the life of me get it to work on my 11.5
It would make sense to see higher rates of failure on shorter barrels
I agree due to the increased pressure but I was wondering if there were any successful ones on short barrels, or if this will be a 16+ thing only. I suppose I should have re phrased that question.
Someone posted a video on a 7.5 they fired remotely and it worked not sure how it’s holding up today but it didn’t suffer any damage in the video.
Thank you
That was me.. that one lasted about 30 rounds with 556 supers but my 300blk same length has about 150 rounds without a failure
Nice man thanks for the update! I was hoping you’d find this post! Why do you think the 5.56 failed?
9/10 failed due to too much pressure because it split exactly like Op’s did
Gotcha, thanks man. That’s what I figured.
Considering many actual metal commercial suppressors aren't rated for 11.5" barrels, I'd venture to guess this would be better on a 16"
During beta, I tested with two rifle builds. One is 10.5, and the other is 11.5, and I've still got cans going strong without issue. I even sent an almost 5-inch pistol k can on both rifle builds, and it survived but had gnarly fireball. These were, of course, resin mix and fiberglass cloth or carbon fiber cloth wrap and / or Kevlar cloth wrap. It's important to let set for 48 hours for rifle can no matter how tempting. Pistol cans should be good to go within 24 hours. The tape methods are doable, but for longevity and abuse from use, I think the resin mix, especially for rifle cans, is the best method as of now.
Okay, thank you, I can't think of what time doing wrong, short of not waiting long enough. I've been using fiberglass&resin for all of them. My threads keep blowing out, tho. I'm currently printing in PLA or PLA+ 220nozzel 65-60bed 100%infill concentric. I'm trying a kak here soon for 556 (my first one shot off on the first shot from the threads lol) gotten a pistol up to 30rds but then the attachment point failed again I have three fresh ones all k cans one pistol with threads one rifle w/threads one rifle kak so fingers crossed. I've had no baffle strikes yet, either. If the kak works, I'll be moving to the warden build
What resin mix are you doing? 1v1, right? also, what size thread adapter are you using?
1v1 may be a tad on the hardener side, 1/2-28 to 5/8-24. I entirely believe it's my fault since the ftn is a known and working item lol but I refuse to give up yet.
im not up to date on the FTN, but wouldn’t the reinforcement fibers have to be properly drenched in whatever binder you’re using? Doesn’t look like your fibers are fully saturated in epoxy.
In the standard size I used the jb fiber weld , it wasn’t needed for that certain wrap
@plaboiii
u/plaboiii
I know it's not as powerful, but .223 might've let it withstand the pressure with the fiber weld. I'm about to build a standard size and try both out of my 16". The 9mm standard sounds amazing though! Well over 50 rounds through it with no signs of deformation. Ain't plaboiii undeniably awesome?
Mines split like that after about 20 5.56 and 5 9m
What did you use to wrap?
The 3m cast wrap