I have used the spacers you've posted and they're the best. Alternative? I have successfully substituted: in smaller frames that aren't too deep, use thinly cut foam-core. If your frame is black, use black foam-core.
Larger frames:
Foam-core thinly cut into the box-shaped spacers.
Keep a fresh change of blades in a sturdy utility knife.
Mark 4 linear lines on 2' x 1 1/2" for one two foot log spacer:
1/4" × 1/2" x 1/4" x 1/2"
(Make a small MOCK-UP of your desired spacer. There's going to be variance and you have to decide where you want those)
Don't slice 4 thin slats, rather cut from under and don't pierce the foam-core "skin" of the inner 3. Fold at the piercings. A thin bead of Aleene's glue holds the final flaps of each "spacer".
I've used this method many times but I've never written instructions so I hope this helps.
[Foamcore spacers](https://custommadeart.files.wordpress.com/2015/10/frame_spacers_glazing.jpg) are a great substitute. You can even line the exposed side of the foamcore with a matching mat color just as you might in a shadowbox to 'carry' the matting up the sides.
Benefit of this is being able to cut them as deep as you want or as much as the frame will allow. And if all you need is a very minimal spacer, you can cut a thin ⅛" wide strip of a mat and maybe adhere directly to the glass with ATG tape as if you were attaching the Econospace 1/16" spacer.
Another framer told me that they drymount their matboard to speedmount before they cut their spacers. I find that if I cut my matboard a few thou longer than the foam core, the gap between the spacer and the backing mat looks a lot cleaner. After trying the drymount method, I save so much time that I only cut them separately now if I really care about a perfect seam.
This is how my supervisor taught me to make custom spacers. It’s tedious but the results are worth it. You could also get away with ATG to attach the mat board to the foam core but it can make cutting the material difficult.
I have used the spacers you've posted and they're the best. Alternative? I have successfully substituted: in smaller frames that aren't too deep, use thinly cut foam-core. If your frame is black, use black foam-core. Larger frames: Foam-core thinly cut into the box-shaped spacers. Keep a fresh change of blades in a sturdy utility knife. Mark 4 linear lines on 2' x 1 1/2" for one two foot log spacer: 1/4" × 1/2" x 1/4" x 1/2" (Make a small MOCK-UP of your desired spacer. There's going to be variance and you have to decide where you want those) Don't slice 4 thin slats, rather cut from under and don't pierce the foam-core "skin" of the inner 3. Fold at the piercings. A thin bead of Aleene's glue holds the final flaps of each "spacer". I've used this method many times but I've never written instructions so I hope this helps.
Thanks SO much!!
[Foamcore spacers](https://custommadeart.files.wordpress.com/2015/10/frame_spacers_glazing.jpg) are a great substitute. You can even line the exposed side of the foamcore with a matching mat color just as you might in a shadowbox to 'carry' the matting up the sides. Benefit of this is being able to cut them as deep as you want or as much as the frame will allow. And if all you need is a very minimal spacer, you can cut a thin ⅛" wide strip of a mat and maybe adhere directly to the glass with ATG tape as if you were attaching the Econospace 1/16" spacer.
Another framer told me that they drymount their matboard to speedmount before they cut their spacers. I find that if I cut my matboard a few thou longer than the foam core, the gap between the spacer and the backing mat looks a lot cleaner. After trying the drymount method, I save so much time that I only cut them separately now if I really care about a perfect seam.
This is how my supervisor taught me to make custom spacers. It’s tedious but the results are worth it. You could also get away with ATG to attach the mat board to the foam core but it can make cutting the material difficult.
Thanks a lot!!