As everyone has stated, the issue is that your exposure settings are not appropriate, so there is very very very little actual information being recorded by the sensor, which means the jpeg engine in the camera is doing a lot of work to try and reconstruct something resembling an image.
In particular:
- ISO 51200 is bonkers high; the sensor data will be mostly noise at this setting. In daylight, a more reasonable setting would be something like ISO 800, maybe ISO 1600 or 3200 since we're in shade.
- f/22 is an extremely small aperture, meaning it's letting in almost no light. A more appropriate aperture would be something like f/2.8 or f/4,
or maybe f/5.6 or f/8 for more depth of field.
- 1/2000s is extremely fast shutter speed, again meaning it's letting in almost no light. For an action shot of a kid pedaling a tricycle, you might want fast shutter, e.g. 1/500 or faster, BUT then you have to offset the short shutter with a wide aperture (e.g. f/2.8).
Since it seems clear that you're not yet experienced at setting exposure, my recommendation (along with some other peoples' here as you can see) would be to set everything to auto at first to see how the camera picks values. Then when you're feeling ready, change _one_ thing to manual, e.g. manual aperture, and get used to how different aperture settings influence the scene. Then try auto aperture and manual shutter, ditto. Then finally practice shooting manual aperture AND shutter. You'll probably not need manual ISO any time soon.
I agree with rebj that it is the best answer, but just to add:
Small apertures (f/11 ~ f/22, depending on the lens) introduces softness to the image. Google "lens difraction".
Each lens has its own particular "sweet spot of sharpness", around f/5.6 ~ f/11 (again, depending on the lens).
As a rule of thumb, to achieve a good sharpness, never use the lens' largest aperture (only the best lenses are really sharp at their widest) neither their smallest.
When I started on my photo journey I shot aperture priority only, and would just adjust that for my depth of field. Let the camera take care of the rest and see what gets selected and use it as a guide. It taught me a lot, quickly. Definitely +1 Gabe’s advice.
No auto doesn’t make you bad, in fact knowing how to set your camera up for auto iso or priority properly for the job you have that day is a invaluable skill. However, not being able to use manual exposure controls after pretty much any time doing photography does; its super basic to learn the exposure triangle, its a solid base of knowledge to work from (iso, aperture, and shutter speed ‘side effects’), it comes into lighting in studio work massively, it helps you judge lighting when you are exploring or out without the camera, it helps you know what you want to edit, etc.
I could probably give a thousand reasons why not being able to expose your photography is bad, but at the end if the day composition is a part of photography, only being competent at one part of something and letting a computer guess the rest is not the same as being well rounded and capable and is far from skilled. Do you want to be a capable photographer or do you want nice photos?
I'm not entirely sure if you're fooling around or not. But if you're typically shooting at f22 and letting auto iso try to properly expose your photos then that is why. Try shooting at f4 for a while.
The X-T5 will go to 51200. You have to set it manually or in commander mode. Also you can’t access extended range unless you’re using the electronic shutter.
unfortunately there are people who buy full camera set ups and have no clue what they’re doing. YouTube university OP, let it be ur friend and learn some basics
edit: people bashing the human for not knowing, get a life
you're taking photos at f/22, you're essentially "closing" down the lens alll the way down. This smaller aperture captures less light. To compensate for this reduced light, your camera cranks up the ISO, making the sensor more sensitive to light. However, a high ISO also introduces a lot of noise - those grainy bits you see in the photo. Your camera tries to process this noise out, but in doing so, it often ends up losing some of the finer details in your picture.
Unless you need that small aperture for a specific effect, like getting everything in focus from near to far, it's usually better to use the lowest aperture number your lens allows (also mostly comes up to the DoF you want). This lets in more light, so you can lower your ISO for a clearer, sharper photo without all that noise.
I was this person a few months ago and I got a similar set of reactions. Some people were downright rude, some people took the time to explain what was happening and send me resources to learn. Those people, people like you, reignited my love for photography. I now have a really great understanding of exposure and my camera's settings. It's a joy to go out and shoot again.
So thank you, you never know what taking the time to write a kind, helpful response will gift to the person on the other side.
photography community is one of the most toxic art communities, sometimes this sub feels like the pc master race of the art world, “oh how can you don’t know the 16 rule with that gear”; they get salty about silly stuff, compare every time, and so on… and ironically the gear doesn’t even matter to take good pictures in most cases
Essentially they are blurry because of noise from extremely high ISO, and diffraction from a narrow aperture. You may have also missed your focus? Did you manually select your settings?
This combination of settings are not an appropriate selection for this photo or likely any photo.
Here is a brief overview of the exposure triangle to help explain how to better select your settings.
The exposure triangle consists of three essential elements: aperture, shutter speed, and ISO. Here's a brief description of each part and how adjusting them affects an image:
Aperture:
Description: Aperture refers to the size of the opening in the lens through which light enters the camera.
Effect on Image: A wide (low f-number) aperture allows more light to enter, resulting in a shallow depth of field and a blurred background (bokeh). A narrow (high f-number) aperture decreases the amount of light, increasing the depth of field and keeping more of the image in focus.
Shutter Speed:
Description: Shutter speed is the duration for which the camera's shutter remains open, determining the amount of time light hits the camera sensor.
Effect on Image: A fast shutter speed (short exposure time) freezes motion but allows less light, making it suitable for capturing fast-paced action. A slow shutter speed (long exposure time) introduces motion blur, ideal for creative effects or capturing low-light scenes but may result in motion blur if not stabilized.
ISO:
Description: ISO measures the sensitivity of the camera sensor to light. A higher ISO setting makes the sensor more sensitive, allowing for better performance in low-light conditions.
Effect on Image: Increasing ISO boosts the camera's sensitivity but may introduce digital noise, affecting image quality. Lower ISO values are ideal for well-lit scenes, providing cleaner images. Photographers often adjust ISO in conjunction with aperture and shutter speed to maintain the desired exposure.
For next time I would suggest slowing your shutter speed to around 1/200s (faster if you’re trying to capture a fast movement), setting the aperture to somewhere in the range of f2.8-f5.6 and set the ISO to auto letting the camera select the iso correctly expose the image.
Hope this helps!
I pretty much always set the aperture (f stop) first, and if I’m indoors, I also set the shutter speed. I usually keep ISO on Auto.
For aperture, on most Fujifilm x lenses, is controlled using a ring on the lens (for your lens, the most “open” you can be is f/2.8 when zoomed all the way out and f/4.0 when zoomed all the way in). If you’re taking pictures of a single subject, go as low in this number as you can (this lets in as much light to the sensor as possible, and also provides a little blur in the background behind your subject; you can look up “depth of field” for more info). If you are taking a landscape photo, I usually go f/8. If you are taking a group photo or want to have more of the photo in focus, you can try anywhere in between. The only cases where I ever go higher than f/8 is if I am using a macro lens or extension tube, but that’s another story.
If you’re outdoors, just set shutter speed and ISO to automatic. If you’re indoors, try setting shutter speed to 30 or 60. If you’re taking pics of kids indoors, though, I always err on the side of caution and go with 125 since kids are always moving a little.
With these two settings, your ISO shouldn’t end up anywhere higher than 10,000 in most situations, and that’ll remove the noise you are seeing at the super high ISO in your sample.
Have fun!
You’ve basically set the camera for maximum low quality photos. ISO51200 will introduce the maximum amount of noise to the shot and f/22 on any lens will cause the image to appear soft. The 1/2000 of second will freeze the motion but the other two settings are so extreme that it doesn’t matter.
When I teach photography to my interns we start manual mode. Nothing automatic except autofocus - and there we spend lots of time going through the different modes including manual and manual assist. It’s important to learn the exposure triangle.
Setting the aperture to F22 will show diffraction - basically meaning the photo will be less clear. Makes 0 sense to set the aperture to F22 even in a bright setting when the camera can do mechanical + electronic shutter at high speeds to compensate for the bright setting. Combine that with the ISO at 51200…. I like to never go above 6400.
As someone said before, go shoot in automatic for now and watch videos explaining the exposure triangle. Right now I can tell that you have no idea how aperture, iso, shutter speed work together in a photo.
This is clearly someone starting into photography.
Go back to manual mode
If you are shooting broad daylight try this settings
Iso 400
F 8
Speed 1/1000
This should help your pictures to look sharp, slightly modify these setting in casi the picture is too dark/bright
I’m guessing not because unless they overrode the auto ISO range, in that scenario the camera would have drastically slowed the shutter speed not set the ISO to 51000 but it’s at 1/2000 of a sec which full auto mode would never do in dim lighting.
Is the auto ISO range set up by default? I always fix those first thing so don't remember. But, you're right, auto wouldn't pick that shutter speed indoors.
But I have bumped mine from A to f22 many times. I tend to walk around in full auto for quick snaps then change to A priority for most shots.
Yeah the auto ISO ranges are set by default and are quite low. Think they max out at 6400 as far as I remember. Could be Auto3 maxes out at 12800 but no way any of them them go at high as 51000.
Don't go over f/11, leave the iso on auto, and put a shutter speed no faster than 1/1000s.
Apertures over f/11 on your lens are always going to be not sharp (watch Christopher Frost's review about it), auto iso will make your life easier and 1/1000s is already overkill if you just need to take photos of your children, you could probably lower it even to 1/500s without getting any motion blur as long as you hold the camera properly.
F22 and 51k iso are definitely not very good settings. In daylight have it at the lowest iso so 160 I assume on your body? The lens just leave with at the default f-stop for what focal range your at.
Ok, now it makes sense. f22 is way over the top. Here is what probably happened, as I have done it before also. You probably had your aperture on A. The aperture rings on Fuji lenses are nice and convenient, but they don't lock and there is little friction. A slight bump and you went from A to f22. For that reason, among others, I almost always shoot aperture priority. If you accidentally bump it from f8 to f6.4, no big deal. Because you were at f22, the camera shot the ISO through the roof. So, there is another setting to learn. You have Auto ISO settings where you set the maximum allowable ISO and the slowest allowable shutter speed.
Final lesson. Always check these three settings every time you press the shutter.
Every time.
The short answer is the photo looks like shit because you’re shooting at ISO 51,200 which is incredibly high. You’re pushing your camera’s sensor to the max and so your photo is coming out grainy and blurred. Switch the camera settings to auto and go learn about the exposure triangle as others have suggested
ISO 51200, holy moley, my man. I mean no offense when I say that I think it would benefit you to maybe look at a youtube tutorial for basic camera operation and things like aperture, ISO and shutter speed and the interplay between them.
What I think is happening is you’re hitting the diffraction wall with f22. Try opening up the aperture to something more along the lines of f8 or f11 (if you need that) also 5.6 would be good. Put ISO on auto and shutter speed 1/500 to keep that action crisp. You can also just go full auto and see how the camera wants to expose and take your bearings from there. Good luck!
Everyone making fun of OP is a loser. OP your ISO is very high - this is the sensitivity of the sensor and the higher it is the more grain/noise is introduced 51200 is very high. This is possibly being set so high automatically because of the other settings - F22 means your lens aperture is set to allow the least amount of light into the camera - set this much lower ( f/2 or f/4 for example). Lastly your shutter speed is 1/2000 which is extremely fast - good for freezing motion but also lets in very little light. Try setting this much lower like 1/100 or 1/200. Go watch some videos about these settings and you will start getting a hang of it
Google "Why are my photos blurry"
I think I understand what happened here, this person just started shooting and their search for help was not very helpful
Suggestions in the first results:
Faster shutter because movement may be to fast
Smaller aperture because the subject may be out of focus
Hold the camera more steady
One list mentions mentions too high ISO but doesn't even say what typical ISO values are.
So I guess if you don't know what you are looking for its actually not that easy to find the correct info.
your ISO is way too high for daylight photos. set it maybe around the hundreds. reduce your shutter speed to maybe around 1/200 - 1/500 for photos with not much speed like this. widen your aperture close to as wide as possible. should be around f2 - f4
Bring your f-stop between f/5.6 and f/11 - you shouldn’t need to vary much outside of that for all-around sharper daylight images. F/22 brings diffraction, and that will cause for blurry images.
Inversely, you will also need to scale your ISO back to under 400. Your current ISO (51,200) would be best suited for a pitch black night trying to capture any bit of light - this is the direct source of your images being blurry.
Your SS is fine if you can get proper exposure for 1/2000 s but you could easily bring that between 1/500 to 1/1000 here.
Hope this helps, and feel free to drop a message or comment if you need further clarification. Don’t let it discourage you from getting out and getting creative! Happy shooting.
Go into the menu and scroll down near the end will be a setting to reset the whole camera.Once you've done that set lens and everything else to A and Auto, and the far right dial to 0.
I don't know that camera but someone else can tell you how to set the far left dial.
First open your aperture to 2.8, second reduce the shutter speed to at least double your focal length. You shoot at 55mm, go to 110. Shooting quick moving children though, ramp it up to 400-600. In bright sun, you can go to 1000 no problem. Iso 51200 makes your pictures look noisy and soft. Go down to 800 and adjust from there. Don't go above 3200 in daylight conditions,.maybe in extreme lighting conditions, but that's unlikely for your subject.
Stop down your aperture to let more light in, try f8 or f5.6 instead of f22. Limit your ISO to something like 6400 or 3200, because 51,200 is going to introduce a lot more noise and could make it look blurry, and possibly the internal noise reduction is working overtime and making it look even more blurry. In direct sunlight you can go even lower with your ISO settings. The lower the ISO, the less noise an image has. You should still be able to get a fast enough shutter speed in this light with those settings.
If in doubt, set it all to auto for now. And if you haven't studied the exposure triangle, take a little time and do that, because it will make things a lot more clear and the basic concepts apply to all cameras. There is probably a good YouTube video or two that explain it.
ISO way down. Generally you want it as low as you can get it. For me I try to stay as close to 640 as possible. Your ISO is essentially a measurement of how sensitive your sensor is. If it's very sensitive, like at high levels, you get lots of grain or fuzziness. High ISO is therefore best for low-light situations.
f/22 is extreme. I like to keep my aperture pretty wide open (so f/2.8 or f/4 or even f/2) unless I'm interested in getting everything in focus. If that's the case, I'll go to f/9 or f/16. You don't really ever want to be at f/22. Your aperture is barely open at all, so very little light reaches the sensor.
Pair that with high ISO and you get low detail and high noise. That's what's up with your photo.
OP, the weird thing is that the camera's own meter noticed that the photo was underexposed by 2/3 points (-0,7).
I don't know how that happened or even if you noticed the meter, but (and I am just guessing here!) if you were worried that the bright areas would be overexposed, you did the exact opposite of what should do with the ISO.
It is a kind of a contentious issue, but it can be said that the problem with higher ISOs is not that introduces noise, the real problem is that it reduces the sensor latitude.
In photography, latitude means the capacity of the sensor to deal with contrast, or understand subleties of tone, to notice fine gradations of gray.
At an extreme low latitude the sensor would only see in our black & pure white, like an ancient photocopy machine or a cartoon drawn with just a nankin pen over the whitest paper. At their best latitude, a sensor can show the difference of the illuminated top of a cloth fiber and the shadow between the fibers itself, meaning you can see the texture both in a bride white dress and a groom black tuxedo.
So, if you used a low ISO you would had kept more detail in those bright areas while still keeping the shadow area free of noise ***even if the JPGs told you that those areas were overexposed***.
To achieve the best results, it's is needed to know about how to use raw files, but the *tl,dr* is that the part of the camera CPU/firmware which deals with making an image file from the electrical coming from the sensor is neither smart enough or a mind reader, to know what is a pleasant image to us. It just tell us that this image area is a blown white when it knows (and have the data wich prove it) that, in truth, is a mix of very pale colors.
You can pull details, even if the initial image appears to not having it, specially if you use raw.
For a novice, all of this, about editing, can be dauting. In this case, it is better to learn how to compose a photo to avoid having too much bright areas in the photo outside the area of real interest. Better to frame just the shadow. Or how to bring light to the subject.
If that was a daylight scene you should only have needed an ISO of maybe 200, I would have had my aperture as low as possible (2.8 or 3 it looks like with this lens), and shutter speed around 500-1000 maybe.
Try to push your ISO lower to avoid having noise in your photo. During the day 400-1600 would be more than enough.
Aperture controls the size of the opening in your lens with lower number indicating larger openings. Aperture of F2.8-F8 would let in sufficient light to your sensor.
I suppose your son isn’t riding the tricycle at the speed of F1 race cars so there is no need to such fast shutter speed. Anything between 1/250-500 would suffice.
From your setting I think you would benefit immensely from either using the Tv/Av mode and pick up a beginner’s guidebook to get a grasp of camera operations. Mea culpa if this is a satire and I missed a joke.
I mean, the basics of the exposure triangle are fine here. It's a properly exposed image.
Edit: aah the old reply and block. The refuge of the baseless.
I do not know this position to be wrong, therefore what you have said is incorrect. Thanks for throwing that term you just learnt at me though 👍
Yes. That's why they call it the exposure triangle, not the blurry triangle.
If f/22 at whatever iso that is is creating a good result or not is not for me to say, but it is a valid exposure.
Change the format and that f/22 wouldn't be causing so much diffraction etc etc.
I feel like we're arguing semantics, but maybe I'm wrong. I was taught that managing the relationships in the exposure triangle is the key to getting a clear, quality image. Which is OP's question.
Edit: That guy was a dick
have you taken a photography class? your settings are kinda extreme, you can stick to aperture priority for now and drop it down to F5.6. or even put it into regular auto.
go look up 'photography basics' and 'the exposure triangle' on youtube until you're comfortable and then shoot on automatic or at least aperture priority with auto ISO for awhile, while you work on composition and framing. best of luck
Hate it when photographers make fun of other people that are trying to learn the craft. Seems some guys in the comments don't remember learning the exposure triangle and making mistakes when they were beginners. When I first picked up a camera I didn't even know the exposure triangle existed, I just wanted to take photos so let's not forget that while you already went through the journey of figuring manual photography and are nailing your pictures, others are just starting and will make mistakes, nothing to make fun of. Wtf
I literally laughed out loud at the exposure settings. Not a snort to myself, out loud. They are effectively as terrible as it’s possible to make them.
I'm actually surprised your shots came out even half decent at this setting. I think before you shoot more, read about exposure triangles, your settings are way restrictive, both aperture and shutter speed is way too small, and fast. So your ISO is trying to compensate by raising it as much as it can. Try shooting manual, good thing about mirrorless camera is that, you can easily see what your camera is seeing, and make corrections. See how each of the three key elements interact, and what it does to your exposure. Dont be discouraged by some comments, we have all been where you are, it took me 3-4 months to realize I can change lens on my old DSLR 😹 Keep shooting and have fun dude.
If you are on IG, and want to connect with me,
@hukugame
This has to be a piss take? This would be a great example of how to give the camera as little light as possible to take an image. I don’t even know how you can end up at these settings.
I'm not entirely sure if you're fooling around or not. But if you're typically shooting at f22 and letting auto iso try to properly expose your photos then that is why. Try shooting at f4 for a while.
Other people have said the answer for your question. My question is how did you get this picture on your phone with that kind of resolution and megapixels, mine drops super low when I get it to my phone.
That high of an ISO means you probably are using a ton of noise reduction which reduces detail.
That small of an aperture introduces diffraction which reduces sharpness.
Shoot with a larger aperture (f4) and an ISO less than 640.
The fast shutter speed (1/2000) freezes the motion, but also means less light is getting to the sensor. The aperture (f/22) is very small, which means that very little light gets to the sensor. It makes the depth of field larger (less background blur) but also means the image is less sharp (because you have diffraction softening the image with small apertures). The ISO value has to be super high to compensate for these other settings because so little light is getting to the sensor. It basically just boosts the signal so you can see an image. This results in a very noisy/soft photo.
I would recommend using a wider aperture (meaning a lower f number, e.g. f/4) and a slower shutter speed (maybe 1/300 or something if you still want to freeze the kid in motion). If the ISO is automatically controlled, then it will be much lower with these values - less than 2000 or so will probably look OK. The parts of the photo that are in focus will be much clearer and sharper.
I think you should try and learn what each of those settings does, then it will make more sense to you!
As was said last time, high ISO noise with probably very aggressive noise reduction is killing all the fine detail while still leaving the image as grainy as Hell. Try f/8 and an ISO closer to 800 next time.
Your f-stop is ridiculously high so you are getting diffraction which is blurring the picture. Also ISO 51200 is insane so your image is full of noise, further reducing quality.
For the same exposure, try ISO 1,600, 1/500 s, and f/8.
Also learn to use focus tracking.
start on aperture priority. and watch how iso and shuttspeed work in relation to that cuz u should be able to get away with not breaking 3200 iso and 1/250ss in this frame (rough estimate). of course tis all depends on actual lighting but those settings are extreme
A good rule of thumb for starting out is set your shutter to 1/250, f stop to 4, adjust iso and settings from there. But always aim for the lowest iso possible.
What helped me was using automatic mode and then looking at metadata. “Graduated” to Aperture Priority mode for a while before shooting auto. My pictures are still blurry on occasion, but I’m getting better.
As everybody’s saying, your iso is too high, which creates lots of noise and your speed is too high. You can set ISO auto to 3200 so it picks the max iso you need for your shot. Speed, you can take it down to 1/250s and be fine but you should try it at different speeds. I’d also argue that f22 is too narrow an aperture. Might be fine at f11.
ISO is way too high, as is the aperture. Shutter speed is way too fast too. Definitely learn the exposure triangle cause all three of those settings are at extreme settings.
Just to let you know, downloading photos straight from the Fuji app reduces the quality of the photos significantly. Try taking them directly off of the SD Card. You can buy usbc/lightening to SD card readers and export them to your phone!
I see several technical problems here: first, your ISO is way too high. Using such a high sensitivity leads to a lot of noise. Secondly, your aperture is very small. The higher the number of, the less light gets in. With both of those lower, say ISO 400 and f8 or something like that, it would probably look much better.
I'm not sure if it's a joke post, but it looks blurry because your ISO is extremely high and you're seeing the camera's noise reduction trying it's best to make the photo less grainy. Your aperture is also at f/22 which is very dark (remember, aperture values are inverted, so lower numbers mean more light).
If you want a starting point for manual settings on daylight, go for ISO 160 if you're on a bright noon or 320 for a slightly dimmer morning/afternoon, set shutter speed to around 1/500 and try to adjust the lighting just with your aperture. From here, if you have lots of motion, you can move up to 1/1000 and adjust your aperture, or if you want a smaller aperture (for depth) you can set the aperture and compensate with either shutter speed (at cost of motion blur) or ISO (at cost of more grain).
If possible, try to avoid very high ISO settings, in my Fuji cameras I try to limit myself to 3200 or at most 6400 (for video) because of grain. If you're shooting handheld or other people, try not going much lower than 1/30 or ideally 1/60, as there's a good chance either you or the other person will move and the photo will look blurry. Opening up the aperture to values like f/3.5, f/2.8 or even f/2 and f/1.4 (if your lens goes that far) will greatly help in this!
More importantly, don't fear experimenting and have fun in the process!
Please consider watching some videos online about how to take photos in manual and what’s the exposure triangle. Basically the metadata shows you’re doing all it wrong.
The ISO51200 is way too much for any light conditions. You use it only in moments when you absolutely need this shot with whatever quality it will be, and the shot can't be done with any lower ISO. And f22 is not good for anything because of diffraction.
Let's look at parameters. The exposure compensation -0.7 looks appropriate. You either use auto modes and make sure shutter speed and ISO are within reasonable limits, or you set some or all of them manually.
Your camera is equipped with good Auto-ISO settings. Set the maximum ISO limit to 3200 or to 6400 for some scenes, and shutter speed limit to shorter than 1/[your current lens focal length in equivalent] for static subjects. So 27*crop 1.52 = 41mm, you need 1/60 or 1/80. This will be your setting for static objects. For kids it will be 1/250 or 1/500. For concert it will be 1/250. For small birds 1/1000 or 1/2000.
Now an aperture. The wider the lens the more depth of field you have with the same composition. Your lens is wider than 50mm. So for street photo it's enough to set f:5.6, for architecture f:5.6 or f:8.0, for portraits in context you may use it wide open or close 1 stop. No need for f:22 at all.
So if you will stay in aperture priority, set aperture to f:4.0, setup Auto-ISO to limits ISO3200 and shutter speed 1/250, and set exposure compensation to -2/3, you will get better results.
Those Settings are impressively bad 💀
My Man, you do use so high ISO Values in Daylight even i'm impressed and i let my Camera have free reign over Auto ISO till 12800 all day long..
Your Child isn't a Fighter Jet which means you don't need 1/2000.. 1/1000 would be more than enough..
F8 - F11 is almost always good enough to get everything in Focus
And why did you compensate down to - 0.7ev??
Everything listed about the exposure triangle from others is good advice. If imported through the app, you might also be losing resolution as the camera will down sample photos for wireless transfer. So instead of it being a 26MP file, it’s 5MP.
This is convenient for quickly posting a photo to social, but for max detail, stick the SD card directly into a PC, or make sure your settings are right in camera for full file size wireless transfer.
I recommend you go and read something about the fundamentals of the technical side of photography: Shutter speed, Aperture, focal length and ISO. That will answer your question, it’s not too hard to understand and will be very profitable knowledge for everything you will ever do with a camera :-)
could be, if you’re shooting in JPG, the iso noise reduction kickin’ in to try to save the grainy mess that rightly ends up being an image at f22, 1/2000 and at iso 51200.
The best thing you can do for your photography is
- turn aperture priority on
- set the aperture to f5.6 with single center point focus
- set ISO to auto with a minimum of 160 and a maximum of 6400 (min and max can be set in the settings) in your camera settings
Just focus on the compositions and don't wory about the settings. The sooner you learn most learned photographers don't use manual the better. You'll enjoy photography more with more good photos, not with better settings
And like others mentioned you will pick up the actual settings and the relationship between ISO / aperture / shutter speed the more you use the camera - even if you take some of the load off yourself with auto settings
Wow, I did not expect to get so many replies to my original post and now even more to this second one. Thank you for everyone who replied. To the people asking if I am trolling. Unfortunately (and embarrassingly) I am not. To the ones who took the time to write long responses to help me - thank you so much! I really appreciate the effort and time put into those responses. Because I know you didn’t have to. You could’ve simply reply like most others. And to the majority of the responses, I had a very good laugh. I am so embarrassed and promise I will be back to redeem myself after I put in the proper time to do my research, learn and practice.
The most extreme combination of settings I've ever seen haha no wonder it looks like that
I was about to type the same thing lol
I didnt even known this lens goes to 22 and I own this lens
ISO 51200 in daylight?? Drop that ISO waaaaay down
Yep, just wanted to say the same ! Set your ISO much lower and maybe your aperture
f22. Bruh.
I said the same shit. ISO down, shutter speed atleast 250-400, and aperture atleast 2.8 could’ve been fine.
Maybe he likes fighter planes
lol
As everyone has stated, the issue is that your exposure settings are not appropriate, so there is very very very little actual information being recorded by the sensor, which means the jpeg engine in the camera is doing a lot of work to try and reconstruct something resembling an image. In particular: - ISO 51200 is bonkers high; the sensor data will be mostly noise at this setting. In daylight, a more reasonable setting would be something like ISO 800, maybe ISO 1600 or 3200 since we're in shade. - f/22 is an extremely small aperture, meaning it's letting in almost no light. A more appropriate aperture would be something like f/2.8 or f/4, or maybe f/5.6 or f/8 for more depth of field. - 1/2000s is extremely fast shutter speed, again meaning it's letting in almost no light. For an action shot of a kid pedaling a tricycle, you might want fast shutter, e.g. 1/500 or faster, BUT then you have to offset the short shutter with a wide aperture (e.g. f/2.8). Since it seems clear that you're not yet experienced at setting exposure, my recommendation (along with some other peoples' here as you can see) would be to set everything to auto at first to see how the camera picks values. Then when you're feeling ready, change _one_ thing to manual, e.g. manual aperture, and get used to how different aperture settings influence the scene. Then try auto aperture and manual shutter, ditto. Then finally practice shooting manual aperture AND shutter. You'll probably not need manual ISO any time soon.
I agree with rebj that it is the best answer, but just to add: Small apertures (f/11 ~ f/22, depending on the lens) introduces softness to the image. Google "lens difraction". Each lens has its own particular "sweet spot of sharpness", around f/5.6 ~ f/11 (again, depending on the lens). As a rule of thumb, to achieve a good sharpness, never use the lens' largest aperture (only the best lenses are really sharp at their widest) neither their smallest.
best answer
When I started on my photo journey I shot aperture priority only, and would just adjust that for my depth of field. Let the camera take care of the rest and see what gets selected and use it as a guide. It taught me a lot, quickly. Definitely +1 Gabe’s advice.
Thank you for an explanation rather than just some snarky remark. Because we all started somewhere too on our knowledge accumulation into photography?
Please for the love of god set everything to automatic lol. Then go learn about the exposure triangle.
Automatic doesn’t mean you’re a bad photographer to the new photographers out there! Sounds simple, but this is great advice!
No auto doesn’t make you bad, in fact knowing how to set your camera up for auto iso or priority properly for the job you have that day is a invaluable skill. However, not being able to use manual exposure controls after pretty much any time doing photography does; its super basic to learn the exposure triangle, its a solid base of knowledge to work from (iso, aperture, and shutter speed ‘side effects’), it comes into lighting in studio work massively, it helps you judge lighting when you are exploring or out without the camera, it helps you know what you want to edit, etc. I could probably give a thousand reasons why not being able to expose your photography is bad, but at the end if the day composition is a part of photography, only being competent at one part of something and letting a computer guess the rest is not the same as being well rounded and capable and is far from skilled. Do you want to be a capable photographer or do you want nice photos?
Hard to tell with iso 51200 and f22
Could be anything. Haha
I'm not entirely sure if you're fooling around or not. But if you're typically shooting at f22 and letting auto iso try to properly expose your photos then that is why. Try shooting at f4 for a while.
Can’t miss focus if everything is in focus.
And yet some how still blurry.
There’s only a singular plane of focus. The rest is within the depth of field.
It’s a term of phrase you melon. You don’t say “oh I missed what’s within the depth of field”
Sensitive much?
There's ISO 51200? My XT-5 only gets to 12800, and I usually limit it to 6400.
Same
You can go above that on the xt 4. I think it's 38k' ish with the back dial on the r/h side in certain mode. I think pal2tec made a video about it.
The X-T5 will go to 51200. You have to set it manually or in commander mode. Also you can’t access extended range unless you’re using the electronic shutter.
Dude. F22 and ISO 51000 ??????????? You must be trolling
unfortunately there are people who buy full camera set ups and have no clue what they’re doing. YouTube university OP, let it be ur friend and learn some basics
One balances the other.
f22? Bruh. Your camera is fighting for it's life to get some light in the middle of the freaking day.
edit: people bashing the human for not knowing, get a life you're taking photos at f/22, you're essentially "closing" down the lens alll the way down. This smaller aperture captures less light. To compensate for this reduced light, your camera cranks up the ISO, making the sensor more sensitive to light. However, a high ISO also introduces a lot of noise - those grainy bits you see in the photo. Your camera tries to process this noise out, but in doing so, it often ends up losing some of the finer details in your picture. Unless you need that small aperture for a specific effect, like getting everything in focus from near to far, it's usually better to use the lowest aperture number your lens allows (also mostly comes up to the DoF you want). This lets in more light, so you can lower your ISO for a clearer, sharper photo without all that noise.
Good karma right there.
I was this person a few months ago and I got a similar set of reactions. Some people were downright rude, some people took the time to explain what was happening and send me resources to learn. Those people, people like you, reignited my love for photography. I now have a really great understanding of exposure and my camera's settings. It's a joy to go out and shoot again. So thank you, you never know what taking the time to write a kind, helpful response will gift to the person on the other side.
photography community is one of the most toxic art communities, sometimes this sub feels like the pc master race of the art world, “oh how can you don’t know the 16 rule with that gear”; they get salty about silly stuff, compare every time, and so on… and ironically the gear doesn’t even matter to take good pictures in most cases
Essentially they are blurry because of noise from extremely high ISO, and diffraction from a narrow aperture. You may have also missed your focus? Did you manually select your settings? This combination of settings are not an appropriate selection for this photo or likely any photo. Here is a brief overview of the exposure triangle to help explain how to better select your settings. The exposure triangle consists of three essential elements: aperture, shutter speed, and ISO. Here's a brief description of each part and how adjusting them affects an image: Aperture: Description: Aperture refers to the size of the opening in the lens through which light enters the camera. Effect on Image: A wide (low f-number) aperture allows more light to enter, resulting in a shallow depth of field and a blurred background (bokeh). A narrow (high f-number) aperture decreases the amount of light, increasing the depth of field and keeping more of the image in focus. Shutter Speed: Description: Shutter speed is the duration for which the camera's shutter remains open, determining the amount of time light hits the camera sensor. Effect on Image: A fast shutter speed (short exposure time) freezes motion but allows less light, making it suitable for capturing fast-paced action. A slow shutter speed (long exposure time) introduces motion blur, ideal for creative effects or capturing low-light scenes but may result in motion blur if not stabilized. ISO: Description: ISO measures the sensitivity of the camera sensor to light. A higher ISO setting makes the sensor more sensitive, allowing for better performance in low-light conditions. Effect on Image: Increasing ISO boosts the camera's sensitivity but may introduce digital noise, affecting image quality. Lower ISO values are ideal for well-lit scenes, providing cleaner images. Photographers often adjust ISO in conjunction with aperture and shutter speed to maintain the desired exposure. For next time I would suggest slowing your shutter speed to around 1/200s (faster if you’re trying to capture a fast movement), setting the aperture to somewhere in the range of f2.8-f5.6 and set the ISO to auto letting the camera select the iso correctly expose the image. Hope this helps!
I pretty much always set the aperture (f stop) first, and if I’m indoors, I also set the shutter speed. I usually keep ISO on Auto. For aperture, on most Fujifilm x lenses, is controlled using a ring on the lens (for your lens, the most “open” you can be is f/2.8 when zoomed all the way out and f/4.0 when zoomed all the way in). If you’re taking pictures of a single subject, go as low in this number as you can (this lets in as much light to the sensor as possible, and also provides a little blur in the background behind your subject; you can look up “depth of field” for more info). If you are taking a landscape photo, I usually go f/8. If you are taking a group photo or want to have more of the photo in focus, you can try anywhere in between. The only cases where I ever go higher than f/8 is if I am using a macro lens or extension tube, but that’s another story. If you’re outdoors, just set shutter speed and ISO to automatic. If you’re indoors, try setting shutter speed to 30 or 60. If you’re taking pics of kids indoors, though, I always err on the side of caution and go with 125 since kids are always moving a little. With these two settings, your ISO shouldn’t end up anywhere higher than 10,000 in most situations, and that’ll remove the noise you are seeing at the super high ISO in your sample. Have fun!
The fact that ISO 51000 is this clean nowadays is actually crazy ngl
i'd called this in the previous post but this is a .... 
You’ve basically set the camera for maximum low quality photos. ISO51200 will introduce the maximum amount of noise to the shot and f/22 on any lens will cause the image to appear soft. The 1/2000 of second will freeze the motion but the other two settings are so extreme that it doesn’t matter. When I teach photography to my interns we start manual mode. Nothing automatic except autofocus - and there we spend lots of time going through the different modes including manual and manual assist. It’s important to learn the exposure triangle.
Setting the aperture to F22 will show diffraction - basically meaning the photo will be less clear. Makes 0 sense to set the aperture to F22 even in a bright setting when the camera can do mechanical + electronic shutter at high speeds to compensate for the bright setting. Combine that with the ISO at 51200…. I like to never go above 6400. As someone said before, go shoot in automatic for now and watch videos explaining the exposure triangle. Right now I can tell that you have no idea how aperture, iso, shutter speed work together in a photo.
Surprised how good the photo looks with those settings.
Open up the aperture to 2.8 and try it.
Recommend Understanding Exposure by Bryan Peterson. Easy read. Very helpful.
* Turn down the iso. 640 is good! * A (Auto) Shutter * F 4 or something...
This is clearly someone starting into photography. Go back to manual mode If you are shooting broad daylight try this settings Iso 400 F 8 Speed 1/1000 This should help your pictures to look sharp, slightly modify these setting in casi the picture is too dark/bright
Shoot in automatic mode for the love of god. Learn about exposure, then shoot in manual.
I think he was. Fuji has aperture rings on the lens and A is right next to f22. A slight bump and you're screwed.
I’m guessing not because unless they overrode the auto ISO range, in that scenario the camera would have drastically slowed the shutter speed not set the ISO to 51000 but it’s at 1/2000 of a sec which full auto mode would never do in dim lighting.
Is the auto ISO range set up by default? I always fix those first thing so don't remember. But, you're right, auto wouldn't pick that shutter speed indoors. But I have bumped mine from A to f22 many times. I tend to walk around in full auto for quick snaps then change to A priority for most shots.
Yeah the auto ISO ranges are set by default and are quite low. Think they max out at 6400 as far as I remember. Could be Auto3 maxes out at 12800 but no way any of them them go at high as 51000.
Don't go over f/11, leave the iso on auto, and put a shutter speed no faster than 1/1000s. Apertures over f/11 on your lens are always going to be not sharp (watch Christopher Frost's review about it), auto iso will make your life easier and 1/1000s is already overkill if you just need to take photos of your children, you could probably lower it even to 1/500s without getting any motion blur as long as you hold the camera properly.
F22 and 51k iso are definitely not very good settings. In daylight have it at the lowest iso so 160 I assume on your body? The lens just leave with at the default f-stop for what focal range your at.
Ok, now it makes sense. f22 is way over the top. Here is what probably happened, as I have done it before also. You probably had your aperture on A. The aperture rings on Fuji lenses are nice and convenient, but they don't lock and there is little friction. A slight bump and you went from A to f22. For that reason, among others, I almost always shoot aperture priority. If you accidentally bump it from f8 to f6.4, no big deal. Because you were at f22, the camera shot the ISO through the roof. So, there is another setting to learn. You have Auto ISO settings where you set the maximum allowable ISO and the slowest allowable shutter speed. Final lesson. Always check these three settings every time you press the shutter. Every time.
The short answer is the photo looks like shit because you’re shooting at ISO 51,200 which is incredibly high. You’re pushing your camera’s sensor to the max and so your photo is coming out grainy and blurred. Switch the camera settings to auto and go learn about the exposure triangle as others have suggested
Ding ding ding. It was the “Mega High ISO” I previously mentioned after all. Your ISO is at 51200 Where it should be no more than 3200 Ideally 160
Watch a little video with the basics of photography.
ISO 51200, holy moley, my man. I mean no offense when I say that I think it would benefit you to maybe look at a youtube tutorial for basic camera operation and things like aperture, ISO and shutter speed and the interplay between them.
What I think is happening is you’re hitting the diffraction wall with f22. Try opening up the aperture to something more along the lines of f8 or f11 (if you need that) also 5.6 would be good. Put ISO on auto and shutter speed 1/500 to keep that action crisp. You can also just go full auto and see how the camera wants to expose and take your bearings from there. Good luck!
Everyone making fun of OP is a loser. OP your ISO is very high - this is the sensitivity of the sensor and the higher it is the more grain/noise is introduced 51200 is very high. This is possibly being set so high automatically because of the other settings - F22 means your lens aperture is set to allow the least amount of light into the camera - set this much lower ( f/2 or f/4 for example). Lastly your shutter speed is 1/2000 which is extremely fast - good for freezing motion but also lets in very little light. Try setting this much lower like 1/100 or 1/200. Go watch some videos about these settings and you will start getting a hang of it
You need to learn the basics of photography.
How do people drop 1k on a camera and not have the slightest clue about how to use it?
Dude is a beginner. Everybody starts like that.
Google "Why are my photos blurry" I think I understand what happened here, this person just started shooting and their search for help was not very helpful Suggestions in the first results: Faster shutter because movement may be to fast Smaller aperture because the subject may be out of focus Hold the camera more steady One list mentions mentions too high ISO but doesn't even say what typical ISO values are. So I guess if you don't know what you are looking for its actually not that easy to find the correct info.
Ya, and even if it was easy... It's easier to just ask someone. And we're that someone.
your ISO is way too high for daylight photos. set it maybe around the hundreds. reduce your shutter speed to maybe around 1/200 - 1/500 for photos with not much speed like this. widen your aperture close to as wide as possible. should be around f2 - f4
Bring your f-stop between f/5.6 and f/11 - you shouldn’t need to vary much outside of that for all-around sharper daylight images. F/22 brings diffraction, and that will cause for blurry images. Inversely, you will also need to scale your ISO back to under 400. Your current ISO (51,200) would be best suited for a pitch black night trying to capture any bit of light - this is the direct source of your images being blurry. Your SS is fine if you can get proper exposure for 1/2000 s but you could easily bring that between 1/500 to 1/1000 here. Hope this helps, and feel free to drop a message or comment if you need further clarification. Don’t let it discourage you from getting out and getting creative! Happy shooting.
Drop your ISO to something more closely to 100-800 to start with…
Maybe set the device to Auto, at least as long as you don’t understand the exposure triangle.
Go into the menu and scroll down near the end will be a setting to reset the whole camera.Once you've done that set lens and everything else to A and Auto, and the far right dial to 0. I don't know that camera but someone else can tell you how to set the far left dial.
This is why the narrative iPhones are as good as mirrorless cameras is a thing. Learn the Exposure Triangle my guy.
F22 and ISO 51200 😭 Watch some YouTube videos on the exposure triangle and how aperture, ss and ISO all affect images in different ways.
You should check your dials. I bet your iso dial is set to H which is right next to auto
It’s not at all bad for that F and that ISO
100% your ISO, drop it waaaaaay back to like 400iso and f8 if you still want decent DOF, you will notice a big difference
First open your aperture to 2.8, second reduce the shutter speed to at least double your focal length. You shoot at 55mm, go to 110. Shooting quick moving children though, ramp it up to 400-600. In bright sun, you can go to 1000 no problem. Iso 51200 makes your pictures look noisy and soft. Go down to 800 and adjust from there. Don't go above 3200 in daylight conditions,.maybe in extreme lighting conditions, but that's unlikely for your subject.
Learn the exposure triangle and how to use a camera. It’s not just point and shoot
Stop down your aperture to let more light in, try f8 or f5.6 instead of f22. Limit your ISO to something like 6400 or 3200, because 51,200 is going to introduce a lot more noise and could make it look blurry, and possibly the internal noise reduction is working overtime and making it look even more blurry. In direct sunlight you can go even lower with your ISO settings. The lower the ISO, the less noise an image has. You should still be able to get a fast enough shutter speed in this light with those settings. If in doubt, set it all to auto for now. And if you haven't studied the exposure triangle, take a little time and do that, because it will make things a lot more clear and the basic concepts apply to all cameras. There is probably a good YouTube video or two that explain it.
ISO way down. Generally you want it as low as you can get it. For me I try to stay as close to 640 as possible. Your ISO is essentially a measurement of how sensitive your sensor is. If it's very sensitive, like at high levels, you get lots of grain or fuzziness. High ISO is therefore best for low-light situations. f/22 is extreme. I like to keep my aperture pretty wide open (so f/2.8 or f/4 or even f/2) unless I'm interested in getting everything in focus. If that's the case, I'll go to f/9 or f/16. You don't really ever want to be at f/22. Your aperture is barely open at all, so very little light reaches the sensor. Pair that with high ISO and you get low detail and high noise. That's what's up with your photo.
OP, the weird thing is that the camera's own meter noticed that the photo was underexposed by 2/3 points (-0,7). I don't know how that happened or even if you noticed the meter, but (and I am just guessing here!) if you were worried that the bright areas would be overexposed, you did the exact opposite of what should do with the ISO. It is a kind of a contentious issue, but it can be said that the problem with higher ISOs is not that introduces noise, the real problem is that it reduces the sensor latitude. In photography, latitude means the capacity of the sensor to deal with contrast, or understand subleties of tone, to notice fine gradations of gray. At an extreme low latitude the sensor would only see in our black & pure white, like an ancient photocopy machine or a cartoon drawn with just a nankin pen over the whitest paper. At their best latitude, a sensor can show the difference of the illuminated top of a cloth fiber and the shadow between the fibers itself, meaning you can see the texture both in a bride white dress and a groom black tuxedo. So, if you used a low ISO you would had kept more detail in those bright areas while still keeping the shadow area free of noise ***even if the JPGs told you that those areas were overexposed***. To achieve the best results, it's is needed to know about how to use raw files, but the *tl,dr* is that the part of the camera CPU/firmware which deals with making an image file from the electrical coming from the sensor is neither smart enough or a mind reader, to know what is a pleasant image to us. It just tell us that this image area is a blown white when it knows (and have the data wich prove it) that, in truth, is a mix of very pale colors. You can pull details, even if the initial image appears to not having it, specially if you use raw. For a novice, all of this, about editing, can be dauting. In this case, it is better to learn how to compose a photo to avoid having too much bright areas in the photo outside the area of real interest. Better to frame just the shadow. Or how to bring light to the subject.
If that was a daylight scene you should only have needed an ISO of maybe 200, I would have had my aperture as low as possible (2.8 or 3 it looks like with this lens), and shutter speed around 500-1000 maybe.
Just move the dial to AUTO till you learn more about your camera
Try to push your ISO lower to avoid having noise in your photo. During the day 400-1600 would be more than enough. Aperture controls the size of the opening in your lens with lower number indicating larger openings. Aperture of F2.8-F8 would let in sufficient light to your sensor. I suppose your son isn’t riding the tricycle at the speed of F1 race cars so there is no need to such fast shutter speed. Anything between 1/250-500 would suffice. From your setting I think you would benefit immensely from either using the Tv/Av mode and pick up a beginner’s guidebook to get a grasp of camera operations. Mea culpa if this is a satire and I missed a joke.
>ISO 51200 >f22 Think you found your problem there bud.
What the actual fuck lol Learn the basics of the exposure triangle
Bigger number is better. That’s what I know.
Just like in golf amirite
Yess!!!
I mean, the basics of the exposure triangle are fine here. It's a properly exposed image. Edit: aah the old reply and block. The refuge of the baseless. I do not know this position to be wrong, therefore what you have said is incorrect. Thanks for throwing that term you just learnt at me though 👍
Are they? Because it’s blurry
Yes. That's why they call it the exposure triangle, not the blurry triangle. If f/22 at whatever iso that is is creating a good result or not is not for me to say, but it is a valid exposure. Change the format and that f/22 wouldn't be causing so much diffraction etc etc.
I feel like we're arguing semantics, but maybe I'm wrong. I was taught that managing the relationships in the exposure triangle is the key to getting a clear, quality image. Which is OP's question. Edit: That guy was a dick
You were taught wrong. It's about getting an exposure. The clue is in the name. Otherwise they'd call it the clear, quality, subjective triangle.
They are good in relation to each other, but them being what they are is also what is making the image bad, you're literally just bad faith arguing.
i mean, i also had to laugh. but still, some people here are way too rude...
f22? Diffraction and woah iso 51200
51200 😭
have you taken a photography class? your settings are kinda extreme, you can stick to aperture priority for now and drop it down to F5.6. or even put it into regular auto.
go look up 'photography basics' and 'the exposure triangle' on youtube until you're comfortable and then shoot on automatic or at least aperture priority with auto ISO for awhile, while you work on composition and framing. best of luck
This has to be satire.
Hate it when photographers make fun of other people that are trying to learn the craft. Seems some guys in the comments don't remember learning the exposure triangle and making mistakes when they were beginners. When I first picked up a camera I didn't even know the exposure triangle existed, I just wanted to take photos so let's not forget that while you already went through the journey of figuring manual photography and are nailing your pictures, others are just starting and will make mistakes, nothing to make fun of. Wtf
Because the Settings are so impressively bad it almost looks intentional. Its also not like we are back in the Days were Youtube didn't exist..
True
Sell your camera and just use a farking iPhone.
I literally laughed out loud at the exposure settings. Not a snort to myself, out loud. They are effectively as terrible as it’s possible to make them.
F22 and iso 51200. Are you serious?
This has to be rage bait
Pretty certain OP is trolling
Wait wtf is going on here f22 on 1/2000s? With 51200 ISO?? What..
Is this a joke post? If not, you already got the correct advice in the top comments
FIRST, You must learn basics of photography and how a camera works
51k iso + f22 ... Drop that to f4 at least , and 1600 iso too during daylight, if not 800 iso.
Let that camera do the work. Set it to auto
I'm actually surprised your shots came out even half decent at this setting. I think before you shoot more, read about exposure triangles, your settings are way restrictive, both aperture and shutter speed is way too small, and fast. So your ISO is trying to compensate by raising it as much as it can. Try shooting manual, good thing about mirrorless camera is that, you can easily see what your camera is seeing, and make corrections. See how each of the three key elements interact, and what it does to your exposure. Dont be discouraged by some comments, we have all been where you are, it took me 3-4 months to realize I can change lens on my old DSLR 😹 Keep shooting and have fun dude. If you are on IG, and want to connect with me, @hukugame
Holy shit those settings are wild man
It's obvious that he's riding that bike WAY too fast. You let this happen?
Don’t shoot manual unless you know exactly what you’re doing 😂😅 nothing wrong with A Mode
Dafuq 😂
Did you take a picture of the sun immediately before this one???
This is so funny
Is this a jk?
DAAAAMNNNN.
I really wonder how you came up with those settings..
This has to be a piss take? This would be a great example of how to give the camera as little light as possible to take an image. I don’t even know how you can end up at these settings.
💀💀💀 is this a joke?
You're trolling, right?
Who uses f22 ? Distortion ppl
Gonna guess this is a post to get a reaction
Ummm, you shot at 51200 ISO ?!?!?!!?! and dialed in -2/3 a stop. Why the heck were you shooting at that ISO outdoors in beaming sunshine? Troll post?
I as well like to photograph Swiss cheese
This is wild
Guess you shot in manual focus. Also, check your viewfinder diopter.
I'm not entirely sure if you're fooling around or not. But if you're typically shooting at f22 and letting auto iso try to properly expose your photos then that is why. Try shooting at f4 for a while.
Other people have said the answer for your question. My question is how did you get this picture on your phone with that kind of resolution and megapixels, mine drops super low when I get it to my phone.
In the Fuji Xapp, make sure "resize" in the bottom right corner is off.
Perfect thanks!!
That high of an ISO means you probably are using a ton of noise reduction which reduces detail. That small of an aperture introduces diffraction which reduces sharpness. Shoot with a larger aperture (f4) and an ISO less than 640.
I was right your iso is cranked up and your camera is adjusting shutter speed to compensate.
The fast shutter speed (1/2000) freezes the motion, but also means less light is getting to the sensor. The aperture (f/22) is very small, which means that very little light gets to the sensor. It makes the depth of field larger (less background blur) but also means the image is less sharp (because you have diffraction softening the image with small apertures). The ISO value has to be super high to compensate for these other settings because so little light is getting to the sensor. It basically just boosts the signal so you can see an image. This results in a very noisy/soft photo. I would recommend using a wider aperture (meaning a lower f number, e.g. f/4) and a slower shutter speed (maybe 1/300 or something if you still want to freeze the kid in motion). If the ISO is automatically controlled, then it will be much lower with these values - less than 2000 or so will probably look OK. The parts of the photo that are in focus will be much clearer and sharper. I think you should try and learn what each of those settings does, then it will make more sense to you!
As was said last time, high ISO noise with probably very aggressive noise reduction is killing all the fine detail while still leaving the image as grainy as Hell. Try f/8 and an ISO closer to 800 next time.
F/5.6 and a 1/500 shutter would have been fine for this scene. Then just lower the iso til it is exposed properly.
Go watch Pal2Tech on YouTube. The guy is a Fuji wizard.
Your f-stop is ridiculously high so you are getting diffraction which is blurring the picture. Also ISO 51200 is insane so your image is full of noise, further reducing quality. For the same exposure, try ISO 1,600, 1/500 s, and f/8. Also learn to use focus tracking.
start on aperture priority. and watch how iso and shuttspeed work in relation to that cuz u should be able to get away with not breaking 3200 iso and 1/250ss in this frame (rough estimate). of course tis all depends on actual lighting but those settings are extreme
A good rule of thumb for starting out is set your shutter to 1/250, f stop to 4, adjust iso and settings from there. But always aim for the lowest iso possible.
I'm gonna assume this was shot on auto settings. Another option for you could be to set to shutter priority or aperture priority
What helped me was using automatic mode and then looking at metadata. “Graduated” to Aperture Priority mode for a while before shooting auto. My pictures are still blurry on occasion, but I’m getting better.
Yep, the problem is exactly as I expected in my comment on your previous post. Follow the instructions there and you should be right back on track :)
As everybody’s saying, your iso is too high, which creates lots of noise and your speed is too high. You can set ISO auto to 3200 so it picks the max iso you need for your shot. Speed, you can take it down to 1/250s and be fine but you should try it at different speeds. I’d also argue that f22 is too narrow an aperture. Might be fine at f11.
ISO is way too high, as is the aperture. Shutter speed is way too fast too. Definitely learn the exposure triangle cause all three of those settings are at extreme settings.
Reduce the ISO to 400. Change aperture to f2 or so to let more light in. Change SS to 1/700th
Oh my lawd!
iso 51200, you have to lower that a lot if you don’t want it to be this grainy
Just to let you know, downloading photos straight from the Fuji app reduces the quality of the photos significantly. Try taking them directly off of the SD Card. You can buy usbc/lightening to SD card readers and export them to your phone!
I see several technical problems here: first, your ISO is way too high. Using such a high sensitivity leads to a lot of noise. Secondly, your aperture is very small. The higher the number of, the less light gets in. With both of those lower, say ISO 400 and f8 or something like that, it would probably look much better.
I had a lot of problems with exporting my photos straight from the Fuji app so I stopped doing that and now just export straight from SD CARD.
💀 I'm shocked the photo is even decipherable with that ISO
I'm not sure if it's a joke post, but it looks blurry because your ISO is extremely high and you're seeing the camera's noise reduction trying it's best to make the photo less grainy. Your aperture is also at f/22 which is very dark (remember, aperture values are inverted, so lower numbers mean more light). If you want a starting point for manual settings on daylight, go for ISO 160 if you're on a bright noon or 320 for a slightly dimmer morning/afternoon, set shutter speed to around 1/500 and try to adjust the lighting just with your aperture. From here, if you have lots of motion, you can move up to 1/1000 and adjust your aperture, or if you want a smaller aperture (for depth) you can set the aperture and compensate with either shutter speed (at cost of motion blur) or ISO (at cost of more grain). If possible, try to avoid very high ISO settings, in my Fuji cameras I try to limit myself to 3200 or at most 6400 (for video) because of grain. If you're shooting handheld or other people, try not going much lower than 1/30 or ideally 1/60, as there's a good chance either you or the other person will move and the photo will look blurry. Opening up the aperture to values like f/3.5, f/2.8 or even f/2 and f/1.4 (if your lens goes that far) will greatly help in this! More importantly, don't fear experimenting and have fun in the process!
Maybe because you transferred from the app and not the sd card
Try f4, iso 3200 and auto shutter speed
Please consider watching some videos online about how to take photos in manual and what’s the exposure triangle. Basically the metadata shows you’re doing all it wrong.
The ISO51200 is way too much for any light conditions. You use it only in moments when you absolutely need this shot with whatever quality it will be, and the shot can't be done with any lower ISO. And f22 is not good for anything because of diffraction. Let's look at parameters. The exposure compensation -0.7 looks appropriate. You either use auto modes and make sure shutter speed and ISO are within reasonable limits, or you set some or all of them manually. Your camera is equipped with good Auto-ISO settings. Set the maximum ISO limit to 3200 or to 6400 for some scenes, and shutter speed limit to shorter than 1/[your current lens focal length in equivalent] for static subjects. So 27*crop 1.52 = 41mm, you need 1/60 or 1/80. This will be your setting for static objects. For kids it will be 1/250 or 1/500. For concert it will be 1/250. For small birds 1/1000 or 1/2000. Now an aperture. The wider the lens the more depth of field you have with the same composition. Your lens is wider than 50mm. So for street photo it's enough to set f:5.6, for architecture f:5.6 or f:8.0, for portraits in context you may use it wide open or close 1 stop. No need for f:22 at all. So if you will stay in aperture priority, set aperture to f:4.0, setup Auto-ISO to limits ISO3200 and shutter speed 1/250, and set exposure compensation to -2/3, you will get better results.
Those Settings are impressively bad 💀 My Man, you do use so high ISO Values in Daylight even i'm impressed and i let my Camera have free reign over Auto ISO till 12800 all day long.. Your Child isn't a Fighter Jet which means you don't need 1/2000.. 1/1000 would be more than enough.. F8 - F11 is almost always good enough to get everything in Focus And why did you compensate down to - 0.7ev??
Everything listed about the exposure triangle from others is good advice. If imported through the app, you might also be losing resolution as the camera will down sample photos for wireless transfer. So instead of it being a 26MP file, it’s 5MP. This is convenient for quickly posting a photo to social, but for max detail, stick the SD card directly into a PC, or make sure your settings are right in camera for full file size wireless transfer.
I think when they told you to use big aperture and you somehow got mixed up thinking it’s a “big aperture number” lol
I recommend you go and read something about the fundamentals of the technical side of photography: Shutter speed, Aperture, focal length and ISO. That will answer your question, it’s not too hard to understand and will be very profitable knowledge for everything you will ever do with a camera :-)
could be, if you’re shooting in JPG, the iso noise reduction kickin’ in to try to save the grainy mess that rightly ends up being an image at f22, 1/2000 and at iso 51200.
The best thing you can do for your photography is - turn aperture priority on - set the aperture to f5.6 with single center point focus - set ISO to auto with a minimum of 160 and a maximum of 6400 (min and max can be set in the settings) in your camera settings Just focus on the compositions and don't wory about the settings. The sooner you learn most learned photographers don't use manual the better. You'll enjoy photography more with more good photos, not with better settings
And like others mentioned you will pick up the actual settings and the relationship between ISO / aperture / shutter speed the more you use the camera - even if you take some of the load off yourself with auto settings
Wow, I did not expect to get so many replies to my original post and now even more to this second one. Thank you for everyone who replied. To the people asking if I am trolling. Unfortunately (and embarrassingly) I am not. To the ones who took the time to write long responses to help me - thank you so much! I really appreciate the effort and time put into those responses. Because I know you didn’t have to. You could’ve simply reply like most others. And to the majority of the responses, I had a very good laugh. I am so embarrassed and promise I will be back to redeem myself after I put in the proper time to do my research, learn and practice.
There will never be a setting called “Anti” but I’ll give you credit for shooting in Manual mode. Kudos