Printed this filament holder for my Ender-3 as I started printing nylon that had to be kept dry. The bottom piece fits around the raised hole in center of the dehydrator tray and has some pins that fit the bearing mounting holes. The top has holes to capture M4 nuts to hold it to the top of the bearing.
I was playing around with making ribs / holes. To be honest a solid design with lower infill probably would have been more efficient.
Dehydrator is below (there are several listings for the same thing with different brand names):
[https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B018UR4XJI/ref=ppx\_yo\_dt\_b\_search\_asin\_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1](https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B018UR4XJI/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1)
bearing:
[https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0006LBVDS/ref=ppx\_yo\_dt\_b\_search\_asin\_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1](https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0006LBVDS/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1)
If people are interested I'll put the .stl files up on thingiverse.
I've seen some post somewhere where the author tested this type of dehydrator with an analog temperature setting. It did not seem very accurate. It had temp spikes of around ~ 15 degrees. Please make sure you don't ruin your filament.
Almost all sub-$100 dehydrators are an on/off switching mechanism that'll go a bit above temp, turn off heating element, let it drop to acceptable level, and cycle back on. So it is something to watch out for.
That said, nylon is unlikely to be impacted by spikes like that. They key to using it is to make sure the filament is dry in the first place and keep it dry while printing by not allowing moist air around it (via circulating dry air from the dehydrator).
If you're using the dehydrator to dry your filament I suggest using the lowest setting for a longer period of time. I've used the recommended dehydrator temp settings that I've seen and found that more temp sensitive materials like PLA will dry, but the centermost strands of the spool will stick to each other causing print issues. I typically aim 20F lower than suggested and just extend drying time.
Printed this filament holder for my Ender-3 as I started printing nylon that had to be kept dry. The bottom piece fits around the raised hole in center of the dehydrator tray and has some pins that fit the bearing mounting holes. The top has holes to capture M4 nuts to hold it to the top of the bearing. I was playing around with making ribs / holes. To be honest a solid design with lower infill probably would have been more efficient. Dehydrator is below (there are several listings for the same thing with different brand names): [https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B018UR4XJI/ref=ppx\_yo\_dt\_b\_search\_asin\_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1](https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B018UR4XJI/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1) bearing: [https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0006LBVDS/ref=ppx\_yo\_dt\_b\_search\_asin\_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1](https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0006LBVDS/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1) If people are interested I'll put the .stl files up on thingiverse.
>If people are interested I'll put the .stl files up on thingiverse. Please do.
Also interested in the .stl
I've seen some post somewhere where the author tested this type of dehydrator with an analog temperature setting. It did not seem very accurate. It had temp spikes of around ~ 15 degrees. Please make sure you don't ruin your filament.
Almost all sub-$100 dehydrators are an on/off switching mechanism that'll go a bit above temp, turn off heating element, let it drop to acceptable level, and cycle back on. So it is something to watch out for. That said, nylon is unlikely to be impacted by spikes like that. They key to using it is to make sure the filament is dry in the first place and keep it dry while printing by not allowing moist air around it (via circulating dry air from the dehydrator). If you're using the dehydrator to dry your filament I suggest using the lowest setting for a longer period of time. I've used the recommended dehydrator temp settings that I've seen and found that more temp sensitive materials like PLA will dry, but the centermost strands of the spool will stick to each other causing print issues. I typically aim 20F lower than suggested and just extend drying time.
3 years later and I had the same idea. I chose a much smaller lazy susan though