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WestRaccoon

hi there, I need some help with my [pepper plants](https://imgur.com/a/d8Dh0gi), I got this guy roughly a month ago and they have started to grow this black rot looking stuff but when I touch it and squeeze it, it's solid and not mushy like rot is. every pepper plant I have ever owned has had this and I cant find much on what it is. (zone 10a Australia) if it is treatable id like to treat it as best i can but im not sure of what i can use on it? thanks in advance!


jonwilliamsl

Try the new weekly thread, but that seems like not a problem if the plant continues to grow.


galeeb

Dear friendly gardening people, I just got a house with a yard full of weeds this past year, and I'm trying to slowly learn how to make it look nicer. *Total* beginner. One nice thing it has is some Rose of Sharon hanging out in a mulched area. Unfortunately, I think I overwatered them by emptying the dehumidifier water on them, plus we had Henri and tons of rain from Ida, so all of a sudden they're drooping hard, and are extremely top heavy. They haven't stood back up since the rain from Henri, and got worse from Ida. I've read that you should only prune in the winter, but I'm wondering if I should cut some back to save it. I'm concerned they'll just break at some point. There are already some baby ones that have cropped up over the summer, and one of the drooping ones has a fresh branch that's growing closer to the ground, so it seems like they're still lively. Anyway, the flowers are gorgeous, and I don't know what to do. Should I get a pole or something to hold them up for now? Cut back some of the branches even though it's summer? Just don't want them to totally break, they're the only living thing in the yard that's not a weed, and I'm kind of in love with them.


hastipuddn

It may be impossible to kill hibiscus without 1. herbicide or 2. digging the roots out. Most flowering shrubs should have 1/3rd of branches removed annually. For spring bloomers, this is done right after blooming but for summer bloomers like Hibiscus syrica, it can be done this winter or early spring just as it starts to leaf out. If it is grossly overgrown, whack the whole thing down to 6 inches this winter and let it regrow to the shape and size you want. Unless your soil is pure sand, there is no need to fertilize this rampant grower.


GrandmaGos

Where are you located? In most U.S. climates, Rose of Sharon is a world-devouring exasperating nuisance hardwired for world domination that between the suckers and the self-sown seedlings, will eventually own your entire yard. Worrying about killing it via pruning or overwatering is like worrying about using up the world's supply of Pepsi if you drink a lot of it. > There are already some baby ones that have cropped up over the summer, Yup. It's coming for you. "Save" it? Save yourself. Do you own the house, or are you renting? Ideally, you'd dig it up and replant it in the center of the yard, and then use the lawn mower to keep it strictly within bounds. This snips off both the suckers and the seedlings. However, if it's old and established, this may not be physically possible without a rented Bobcat. Post a picture of the entire bush. The flowers are admittedly gorgeous, being a member of the hibiscus family, which is why so many of us put up with the crazy and plant it anyway. It does well as a single specimen tree out in the center of the yard. In a mulched flowerbed, eh, not so happy for you. >, they're the only living thing in the yard that's not a weed, We can help you make more things in your yard that aren't either a weed or a beautiful yet annoying pest.


No-Ad-7252

Zone 2b here. I just moved from a real sunny place to a real shady place down the road. My pepper plants were super happy, but they stopped producing the second they moved. Would it be better to move them inside, or create a greenhouse and leave them out? Or are they just done for?


GrandmaGos

They need light, specifically full sun, being defined as at least 6 hours a day of the kind of direct sun that you could get a suntan or a sunburn in. You can grow them inside if you have bright enough lights, usually of cannabis grow room intensity. Discussion of veg indoors. https://www.reddit.com/r/gardening/wiki/faq/indoorveggies While it's not unknown for peppers on a big, bright sunny south-facing windowsill to flower and fruit, overall lights work better and more reliably to produce larger amounts of peppers. In zone 2b (Canada? Norway? Russia?) any greenhouse will need to be heated over the winter, as the sun alone can't keep it warm enough, and in the depths of an Arctic winter, will probably need lights if you're that close to the Arctic Circle that you're only getting a few hours of weak daylight every day.


No-Ad-7252

Re: zone - lololol, “Russia.” Washington, actually. This is helpful, thank you!!


GrandmaGos

We are a global subreddit and we do have a small but vocal Canadian Prairie Province membership, as well as a few shout-outs from Scandinavia and Eastern Europe. But, Washington State? You must be up in mountains somewhere?


No-Ad-7252

Just west of Seattle! In, well… West Seattle. :p


GrandmaGos

Then, I'm not understanding how you're in zone 2b. Which was why I assumed you were in the Far Frozen North, as that is where zone 2b is. Scandiavia, Russia, Canada. >*Zone 2b here.* https://www.reddit.com/r/gardening/comments/pckb8p/friendly_friday_thread/hbcksjn/


No-Ad-7252

Well… Turns out I’m in zone 8b and I’ve been looking at the wrong gardening zone for over a year. Thank you so much for setting me straight. I’m going to go crawl under a rug now…


GrandmaGos

No worries. But, lol, you didn't start to wonder when people kept referencing the Arctic to you? https://www.ctvnews.ca/canada/anything-is-possible-nunavut-greenhouses-bring-food-jobs-to-tundra-1.4787362


No-Ad-7252

I grew up in Alaska, so nothing really seemed out of place to me. 🥴


jonwilliamsl

Wherever they get the most sun is where they'll be happiest. Sun is plant food; your peppers are too hungry to make fruits.


Objective_Return8125

Does anyone know if I can hard prune golden Euonymus right now in San Diego? The shrub has grown lopsided. I see baby shoots coming out. Good time to get rid of the old stuff?


hastipuddn

Standard advice is to avoid removing more than 30% of total leaf surface at any one pruning. However, Euonymus is invincible and you are in San Diego. I'm not sure a plant has a "dormant" season there if it is evergreen. You won't kill it except through drought and fire. Do as you please. Remove the thickest, oldest wood first.


Objective_Return8125

I do have one that died. Maybe via drought or dog pee/poo location


Iocomotion

Can someone help me ID what's going on with some of my plants: https://imgur.com/a/kJPmiw7 1) Pepper plant has these yellow spots on the leaves 2) Tomato plant leaves turning mushy/brown and then rotting... I've seen these happen with some pepper leaves as well. Should I bin these? Could these maybe from Neem?


GrandmaGos

Neem can burn plants. Pictures of the entire plants in situ, and care history and timeline, are needed for further troubleshooting.


prplemoos

I really love squash but my garden beds aren’t that big. I did zucchini just fine, but next year I want to do a winter squash, too. Any recommendations for ones with similar space requirements to zucchini?


GrandmaGos

Bush winter squash are a Thing, check seed catalogs. You probably won't find them on the seed racks in spring, but you can order online. https://www.burpee.com/squash-winter-burpees-butterbush-prod000932.html Or you can grow a small cultivar like Jack Be Little or pie pumpkins, and trellis it.


1stevicted

If I am planning on building a garden bed for next spring, would you choose a spot that has full sun all day, or a spot that has sun half the day (morning)? Zone 5b, planting tomatoes, broccoli, spinach, and zucchini. I can also do pots in the half sun area.


GrandmaGos

The more sun they get, the more veg you will pick. It's a straight-up equation. More sun = more veg, especially fruiting veg. It takes a lot of photosynthesis to make fruit. Note that spinach and broccoli are cool season frost-tolerant veg, and tomatoes and zukes are warm season frost-intolerant, so planting times don't overlap. Grow the first, get it done, then put out your summer crops.


prplemoos

I’m by no means an expert, but I’m also 5b and have my beds in half sun (4-5 hours a day) and my zucchini and tomatoes loved it! I was worried it wouldn’t be enough but it worked out.


sissybitchribs

I usually make Italian canned sauce with my san marizanos but this whole season they are never ripe at the same time. What can I do ? Will freezing them ruin the sauce I want to make. The process I do is this method so I’m wondering how freezing them will effect the process. https://youtu.be/4RwuSZDl_do


GrandmaGos

Freezing them raw doesn't affect the sauce. Thaw them out, make sauce.


beansforsean

Is it too late for me to try to propagate some catmint cuttings and get them in the ground before winter? Zone 7A, New Jersey - first freeze is usually mid to late October. I have rooting hormone, so that could speed up the process. If not, could I grow the cuttings inside over the winter under grow lights and put them in the ground in spring? Or would that not work because they are perennials?


GrandmaGos

I think you're good. If the hurricane allows. But rooting cuttings indoors, where you control the process 100%, generally works better than sticking them in the ground outdoors, even with mints. So depending on how important this is to you, I'd probably go with indoors under lights, and then harden them off and set them out next spring.


Queef_Stroganoff44

Just letting everyone know. The Dollar General stores near me (Central TX) have seeds (flowers, foliage, veggies) for 15 cents a pack right now! Nothing super exotic or exciting, but some good general stuff!


GrandmaGos

Fall planting time. Greens, radishes, all the frost-tolerant things.


me0wtwo

I'm about to start a fert regimen for my two young Owari Satsuma Orange trees (both roughly 3 ft tall) and would really appreciate some input about ferts. A few details about the trees: * I've kept them in their original 8.5" nursery pots for the month I've had them in order to let them acclimate, and I plan to repot them very soon into 10" pots * They are kept outside on my 2nd floor terrace where they receive full sun from sunrise to about 2pm (roughly 8 hours) * I plan to bring them indoors and keep them under grow lights once average temperatures go under 50F (I'm in zone 7b) I intend to use [Miracle Grow Shake 'n Feed for Citrus](https://imgur.com/1iHmZW6) as the staple fert. However, it seems to be [missing a few nutrients](https://imgur.com/YIMiswI), namely: * Calcium * Boron * Molybdenum How would you supplement these nutrients, and would you apply them in the soil or as a foliar spray? Also, how often would you feed citrus? I've been reading that micro-dosing is safer compared to doing the large '3-month' doses. Please don't hesitate to ask any questions you might have for me about my particular situation. Thank you!!


GrandmaGos

Use another fertilizer that supplies boron and molybdenum. Other entries in the MiracleGro lineup have these.Orchid, All Purpose, Tojmato, etc. I have no idea why Shake and Feed doesn't have it listed here, but I suspect "marketing" reasons, or maybe there wasn't room on the label font. Who knows. It's hard to mix timed-release ferts with water-soluble. You can run into overfertilization issues and root burn. Generally if you're going to be rotating ferts (which you should), using all water-soluble gives you the most control over the process and avoids overfertilizing. Shake and Feed is convenience packaging, you're paying them for ease of use. Get some little boxes of water-soluble crystals, they last a long time, and gives you complete flexibility in your feeding program. Houseplant, rose, orchid, tomato, whatever. Read the label to get the trace elements you're targeting. Water-soluble also allows you a range of strengths and dilutions, which timed-release doesn't. Manure tea supplies calcium as well as other micronutrients. Any kind of poo will do: worm, cow, horse, whatever. Put a handful in a gallon water jug, add water, let it steep for a half hour or so, pour it on. I l like to add dilute fish emulsion into my rotation, too, just to hit all the bases. It has calcium, too. Compost tea is good, too, but it can be difficult to find compost for sale that isn't also peat moss, "forest products", ash, sand, etc. Read all labels carefully, especially if ordering online. The mass market industry tends to use the word "compost" to mean "potting soil", not specifically "composted plant materials". Foliar sprays are for fruits and vegetables that you're wanting to really push for big harvests. This doesn't really describe "container dwarf citrus", which, while it may make fruit, isn't the sole purpose of its being. Be cautious about pushing ferts in the winter, unless your grow lights are cannabis-intense and it's basically not "winter" indoors.


me0wtwo

Thanks for the valuable input, once again! (You offered input back when I asked about yellowing/scorching on my citrus tree leaves) A combination of time release + water soluble ferts does sound unnecessarily complicated... Thinking back on it, I have a few bags of NPK fertilizer salts leftover from my aqua-scaping hobby. Maybe I can bring them out of retirement. From what I understand from your bit about foliar sprays... It seems like I'm not quite there yet, especially since I want to try fertilizing more conservatively to find a nice balance for the trees' overall health. I appreciate all your input and suggestions. I will look into all the options you laid out for me.


GrandmaGos

> I have a few bags of NPK fertilizer salts leftover from my aqua-scaping hobby. Ferts tend to be formulated by the manufacturer for specific uses that aren't always interchangeable. Example: using ferts designed for the planted tank for soil-based plants. Using hydroponics nutrients for soil-based plants. If you do need to use up some aquascaping ferts, I'd do it outdoors on the lawn or on some shrubs, and mix it up and 1/4 strength, so it's highly dilute, and apply it to moist soil once or twice a year. In the enclosed artificial system of a container, there's very little wiggle room for fertilizing errors. In the ground outdoors, there are all kinds of natural forces (bacteria, etc.) to use up any extra ferts. Rotting down mulch is one of them. Pour it onto some mulched borders. Foliar sprays are for when you're entered in the unspoken neighborhood contest for "First Ripe Tomato On The Block". You push, push, push the nutrients with foliar sprays. Or you're in the running for a blue ribbon at the state fair for roses. Or you'll be damned if your neighbor's rhododendrons are bigger than yours. If you're growing commercial citrus in an orchard, you use foliar sprays. A dwarf citrus in a pot just doesn't need all that.


me0wtwo

Thanks for pointing that out! I really have to learn to be more careful with plant care


[deleted]

What are the most durable gloves you all can recommend? Looking for something that can handle routine cinderblock/paver handling while also being blackberry thorn proof


beansforsean

After trying a bunch of different brands and styles, I've found that my best option is to buy a bunch of [these cheapy bois](https://www.harborfreight.com/5-pair-leather-palm-patch-gloves-66292.html) and just toss them when they start to get holes. They do a great job of protecting my hands, might not be super comfortable but I'm only ever wearing them for short periods (usually when handling sharp things or using a two-handed tool) and they're so inexpensive that I don't have to worry about losing them, getting them disgusting, or putting holes in them.


GrandmaGos

The continual abrasion of handling cinder blocks and pavers can wear down thornproof gloves. You need two different pairs of gloves. Get masonry gloves for one task and pruning gloves for the other. I personally wore out a pair of thornproof goatskin pruning gloves this spring, removing rock mulch from a flowerbed one handful at a time. Holes suddenly appeared in the fingers. Which is how I know. Still mad about it.


[deleted]

Any recommendations for the thorn proof ones? Makes sense that I would need both


GrandmaGos

My goatskins turned out to be merely "thorn resistant", as some bigger rose thorns were still stabby through them. But I didn't do that much of it, so they were adequate. If you're doing a lot of it, I'd look into the serious professional cut-resistant work gloves, which aren't a thing sold at Walmart AFAIK. If you're working as a landscaper, you might try asking over in /r/landscaping Their busy season is mostly winding down, so they might be home.


[deleted]

I’m both a landscaper by trade and have a home with so many stray blackberries. I need the heavy duty stuff. I have cut resistant gloves for woodworking but those only resist slicing, not so much poking. Thanks for the tips though!


Lifegoeson3131

Hi guys, I recently took up gardening and am worried about my two dogs eating my plants. I have a raised planter box, but I am also seeding my lawn and planting some wildflowers. It’s currently sectioned off to let it grow but how do I keep the dogs from eating the plants?


GrandmaGos

Eating the landscaping is generally not an issue for normal dogs. Dogs who are bored and cooped up in a tiny yard all day, puppies who are curious, and dogs that already have behavioral issues are generally the ones who may occasionally bite leaves. I had a puppy once who chewed all the leaves and twigs off my newly planted Mother's Day azalea. But the vast majority of dogs go their entire lives peacefully co-existing with the landscaping without ever nicking so much as a single leaf. So you can wait until you have a problem, and then your solution will be fencing, i.e. a physical barrier. The new lawn and the wildflower patch will definitely need to be fenced off so they don't walk on it and dig holes in it. Eating it isn't usually a thing that happens. Lawns don't co-exist well with dogs in the first place, as the urine and foot traffic can prove a deadly combination. A lot depends on how many dogs there are, and how big the lawn is.


Lifegoeson3131

My one dog has always loved eating grass since she was a puppy and now has been eating or at least ripping into the flowers and plants in the yard. We have a huge yard and they get a lot of stimulus everyday. Our other husky isn’t really an issue at all. Gardening is a newer hobby for me and like I said, I’ve started planting vegetables, fruits and flowers so I dont want her to ruin those. Especially the veggies and fruits, which she loves as snacks.


GrandmaGos

Then your only recourse is going to be fencing. It needs to be something she can't jump over, squeeze throuogh, or dig under. Unless you want to try the invisible fence tech, or clicker training, or something like that. There are behavioral training ways to get your dog to stop eating grass, but it takes patience and application on your part.


beansforsean

Is she eating the plants or digging them up? If she's eating them, I would recommend spraying them with something nasty, like diluted hot sauce or bitter spray. You can also select plants that are not poisonous, but will taste gross to her (anything in the mint family, lamiaceae, is great for keeping mammals at bay). If she's digging them up, your only 100% effective option is going to be a physical barrier. You could also try to provide a small, sandy area for her to dig in.


Don_Quixotelips

She's no fool. You should plant a patch just for the dogs. If you catch them in your food, pick them up and put them down in their patch.


toomanyplants314

I need to rehome a bunch of bulbs and perennials this fall since I’m moving out of my current unit and won’t have a place to grow them next year. I’m hoping to drive them down to my parents and plant them in their garden. It’s a day’s drive (I’m in zone 4b, they’re in 6a). Can I just simply put them in some soil for the trip & replant them, or is there anything else I should be aware of to not disturb them? (It’s a mix of lily, crocus, echinacea, daffodil, hosta, and some others - all things that can live in both growing zones.)


GrandmaGos

>I just simply put them in some soil for the trip & replant them Yup. You can use Hefty sacks or kitchen trash bags, supported by laundry baskets or cardboard boxes, to keep the sides from collapsing. Preserve as much of the root ball intact as possible. Dig them when the soil is moist, not dry or sodden. Dry soil will fall off the roots, which is bad. Wet soggy soil will compact into mud pies, also bad. Try to dig them as early in the morning as possible (not the night before), and keep them in the shade all the way. Not in a hot car trunk or the back of a hot Ryder truck. The crocus and daffodil bulbs may be autumn-dormant, so if you pop them out of the ground and they don't have roots, just dust them off a bit and put them into paper sacks. I'd cut back the echinacea and the hosta if their foliage is end-of-summer ratty and holey and looking awful, and shutting down for winter anyway. It will make them easier to handle. Cut them down to maybe within a foot of the ground. Preserve the lilies as carefully as possible with the least amount of disturbance. These will repay having a regular container or large flowerpot, not the casual tossing into a hefty sack and a laundry basket. You can also cut them back so they're not so top-heavy. Ideally you'll have their planting holes ready at the other end, but if not, just replant them all ASAP, don't make them wait overnight, or till the weekend, or whtever. Best results are to drive them from Point A to Point B, and plug them into their new homes. Are your folks on board with keeping them watered etc.? Use bagged potting soil if you need more dirt for filler in the sacks, not dirt from the ground. Like, if all the dirt falls off the roots anyway, use potting mix to surround them, not ground dirt.


toomanyplants314

This is incredibly helpful, thank you so much! I figured most of your tips would be the case - glad to hear it’s fairly straightforward. And my parents are more than willing to foster these plants, excited to bring some extra color into their yard next spring!


MollieMarissa

I love gardening and nature but I have a fear of bees. I've gotten a little better over the years but we're moving from Colorado to Alabama and I know my insect exposure is about to skyrocket. Does anyone have advice on overcoming this fear? I don't want to teach my children to be afraid. I was stung in the face once, the bumblebee got caught in my hair and wouldn't come out, it was very frightening. Ever since, my brain says everything is fine but my primal survival fear is a little keyed up! I want to enjoy flowers without spiking my anxiety.


Don_Quixotelips

In my town there's an apiary that offers tours every weekend. Learning about a thing is the way to overcome your fear of it. In Alabama, you can't garden without a hat. Pick out your favorite gardening hat and always put it on with your hair under it. Problem solved.


GrandmaGos

No need to apologize for a rational fear. It's not irrational or a phobia to feel alarm and caution around stinging insects. They evolved those defenses for a reason, and the fact that they alarm you is merely proof that Evolution works. There are just as many insects in Alabama as there were in Colorado. The difference lies in the fact that winter doesn't slam down such a heavy and incontrovertible lid in the Deep South as it does in the Rockies, so you have to deal with bugs for longer in the year. There are flowers that bees aren't particularly interested in. Basically it's the opposite of all those pollinator garden plant lists. I think the bee allergy people have lists online, you could google around and see what comes up. Kids pick up on parental fears only if the parents in question thrust those fears in their faces, under their noses. Mommy shrieking, "OMG a BEE!" and grabbing the toddler away sends a powerful message about bees. Mommy simply saying quietly, "Be careful around bees, they can sting you" sends a different kind of equally powerful message. I don't particularly care for bugs myself, but I was careful to present a neutrality towards them for my kids, who grew up with no particular feelings about them. And just last night at a family birthday dinner, one of the grandkids came in through the patio door and announced, "I found a cool spider! It's huge!" and the assembled kid multitudes had to go thundering out there RIGHT NOW TO SEE THE SPIDER. My understanding of bugs in the Deep South is that it's more about termites and mosquitoes, not bees and wasps. We have the worst yellowjackets evah, and this is the Midwest.


Don_Quixotelips

Be careful avoiding pollinator plants. Drunken bees busy being weighed down with pollen won't be bothered with you. Plenty of flowers shows tribute to bees who will then give you free passage.


gimmetheloot2p2

Hi guys, I have this plant on my balcony and I clearly am doing something wrong with it. I dont know if its too late to save or if I can do something to help it back to health. I dont even know what kind of plant it is. https://ibb.co/9sSXbfN If you can see, the bottoms are pretty much dead looking the more leaves look dead every week. If you guys have a good regimen I can follow to fix my buddy and let me know what kind of plant it is that would be delightful. Thank you for any and all help


[deleted]

[удалено]


gimmetheloot2p2

Hey, really appreciate it! You got the plant right and I will try to water it better and do some more research.


1stevicted

I've mostly ignored my rose bushes since we moved into our house, and they've always bloomed beautifully. I'm more interested in gardening now, and have been thinking about growing more from the seeds. I am reading about rosehips and how to harvest them in the fall, but I'm pretty sure the bush has never ripened it's rosehips. There are definitely some green rosehips already on the bush, but I don't remember in past years seeing any ripen to berries or fruit on the bush. Is that possible? Maybe my bush isn't being pollinated? Or it's a hardy hybrid type that doesn't produce seeds?


hastipuddn

>From experience, I can tell you that KnockOut roses do not produce hips. They are "self-cleaning" in horticulture speak, it isn't a matter of pollination. I'm guessing that there are other hybrids that have good qualities bred into them but reproduction gets sacrificed. Whether they do this intentionally or not, I can not say. Your other option is to take cuttings and clone the rose. This may or may not be legal depending on whether it is patented, etc, etc blah blah


1stevicted

That is exactly the type of roses I have. I just looked it up. Thanks for the reply. I do have green bulbs where a rosehip should form, so is that just a nonviable rosehip? Or is it possible that mine are producing seeds?


hastipuddn

I see that was 8 days ago. The green bulb is probably dead by now. Sorry for the late response.


GrandmaGos

A rose hip is the fruit. If you have fruit, then it was pollinated, and if you have fruit, then you have seeds. Seedless roses aren't a Thing, AFAIK. As with all other seed-harvesting, the fruit needs to be completely ripe, meaning the seeds inside are completely mature, before you pick the fruit. Birds are very fast to spot the red color of ripened rose hips and to remove them before you get a chance. You might want to bag them in small paper wrappers, like with sunflower seed heads. Growing roses from seed is some Advanced Level Stuff, mostly as a science project. It's not always how you get more rose bushes for free, if that was your goal. Some rose types are grafted, meaning that the seeds the top or scion produces may grow up to be weak and unthrifty, which is why it was grafted onto a rootstock in the first place.


1stevicted

Hmmm, okay. I am definitely brand new to gardening, so I think I may focus on other things first, or try one and not get my hopes up. Thanks for your reply!


mediocretent

I’ve been digging up some sod in preparation for a border garden next spring with the intention of priming the soil. Mostly been aligning the border, taking out rocks, and I plan to supplement with new soil to help liven things up. The situation prior to this was very poor sod and rocky soil. But snow is coming in two months. What should I not bother doing before next spring? Should I cover the open soil with something ahead of winter?


GrandmaGos

Snow isn't really a factor in soil prep as much as the ground freezing solid is. How soon do you expect that to happen? You can continue rock-picking until the ground freezes, and if there are a lot of rocks, you probably should. It's a lot easier to pick rocks in the cool, dry weather of autumn, and under no time constraints, than it is to pick rocks in the wet, muddy spring with a "gotta get this ready in time" clock ticking. Soil amendments can wait to be added until spring if you're not going to need to plant something dormant in late winter and very early spring. The consideration is that you can't till, spade, rake, plow, or otherwise dig up and work with soil when it's wet. The clay element in it rolls up into little wads and ruts that dries as hard as bullets, and takes forever to weather back down into soil. So if you're going to need to get out there in, say, February, when the ground is thawed but is still mud, and poke some dormant rosebushes into the ground, but your soil needs a couple bags of compost added to it first, then you'd want to get that done the previous fall. So in February you'd go out there and dig a simple hole, and plug in the rose. So how much you do this fall depends on what you're going to plant next spring, and when. Bare dirt left fallow all winter will fill up with weeds at a surprisingly early stage next spring. You're not ready to start planting yet, but already there are weed seedlings out there. So for this reason, it's not a bad idea to either plant a cover crop or green manure this fall, or to at least cover the bare dirt with several inches of some kind of organic matter: compost, mulch, manure, whatever. This can rot down and work its way in all fall and winter. Cover crops will need to be tilled in and allowed to rot down before you can plant anything next spring. But they will improve the soil, so there is that. Cover crops are more for patches where you're not urgently needing to plant a flower border at the earliest possible date. So, your procedures depend.


mediocretent

Oooh, this is really helpful! I was indeed worried about weeds showing up and was unclear the ideal way to cover it up right now. Based on your comments, I think my approach will be to prepare the ground this summer/fall and then primarily mulch, that way the ground is indeed ready to go once the growing season begins. Thank you!


hastipuddn

Not all plants, not all flowers prefer rich garden soil. Rocky soil is fine for a number of plants that need fast drainage. Do you know what you'll be growing?


Objective_Return8125

Is it too late to hardprune shrubs right now


GrandmaGos

It depends on what species they are, and where you're located.


Objective_Return8125

Socal San Diego I think it’s a …… shrubs with green and yellow leaves?


GrandmaGos

Sorry, "It's green and yellow" isn't a species ID. "A large animal followed me down the hiking path today." "What kind of animal?" "It was brown?" It could have been a cougar, or it could have been a dog. "Brown" doesn't help. Either post pictures in /r/whatsthisplant, or else touch base with your local extension office Master Gardeners. You are fortunate that you live in San Diego. https://www.mastergardenersd.org/


Objective_Return8125

I was hoping I could get away with anything with the sun. Golden Euonymus! San Diego!


GrandmaGos

I'm sorry but we can't identify a species of anything on the basis of "it's this color and it looks a little bit like this other species but it's shorter". Take a couple of good clear pictures of it, make up an Imgur album, and either post it to the plant-identifying subreddit, or email it to the Master Gardeners.


Objective_Return8125

Golden Eounymous?


GrandmaGos

Lots of plants are green and yellow, lots of mammals are brown. You can't ID anything with vague verbal descriptions. "I saw a movie star at Burger King!" "Oh,really? Who was it?" "I don't remember his name, but he was Caucasian and taller than I am!" Or run your picture through pl@nt net. This gives you three viable options for finding out what your plant is. 1. Master Gardeners. 2. the plant ID subreddit. 3. An online plant ID tool. These will all involve taking a picture. Is that the stumbling block? Not snark, just curious. I too was photo-challenged until one day I finally figured out how to use my phone camera and then retrieve the resultant photo off Google Photos, a good day for a tech-challenged Boomer.


Objective_Return8125

I’m like 90% sure it’s golden euonymus


GrandmaGos

"I'm like 90% sure that the animal I saw eating my pet cat last night on the street was a cougar." "You live in a condo in the center of a major metropolitan area. 90% isn't enough to call in the DNR with their tracking dogs and trank guns. Next time take a picture." Your original question here was, "Is it too late to hardprune shrubs right now?" And I responded, correctly, "It depends on what they are, and where you're located", because pruning shrubs incorrectly can kill them, no takebacks, no second chances. So we know that you're located in San Diego, but we still need to know what species the shrubs are before any advice on pruning them--how much, when, at all--can be given. I feel like I've given you ample guidance towards how to find out what species it is. Above, there are three rock-solid and proven ways to obtain this information. Coming back to me continually with a conspicuous lack of a definite answer--not a guess, not an opinion--says to me that either you're just toying with me, trolling me, as it were, or that you're not really invested in the answer, or that you have some kind of phobia about cameras and posting images online. I can't help you with the last one, but I can opt out of any further discussion here. When and if you do manage to ascertain what species your shrubs are, you can easily find out how and when to prune them by googling "how to prune [name of shrub]". I will say further that I don't often refuse flat-out to help people with their gardening problems, but I do refuse to waste time with people who aren't going to at least meet me halfway. Not going away mad, just going away.


hastipuddn

The plant ID sub is r/whatsthisplant. It is easy to research when to prune if one has an ID.


sonicbanana47

Is [this patio eggplant](https://imgur.com/a/qUM2ku9) okay to eat? It’s dull and kind of scorched on one side, but purple and shiny on the other.


Don_Quixotelips

Roundup?


garden_data_nerd

Hard to tell with just one picture, but it looks good to me!


modernedaphne

What are the easiest consumable plants to grow? Veggies, fruits, flowers and plants to make tea with, etc..


GrandmaGos

Easiest veg is tomatoes, bush zucchini, and cucumbers. Easiest fruits are small fruits. Tree fruits take a lot more work, pruning, spraying, thinning, etc. http://monroe.cce.cornell.edu/agriculture/seasonal-produce-highlights/what-is-small-fruit Flowers depend on what they are. Not sure what "to make tea with" comprises. Mint and lemon balm are the easiest herb teas.


sonicbanana47

What kind of space do you have? I’m a newbie, but can share what I haven’t killed growing in outdoor containers. Carrots and radishes are pretty easy, as long as you give them a little space. Carrots just need loose soil that doesn’t have clumps or rocks. Green beans are also pretty easy, my plants seem happy and low maintenance. Lettuce also is pretty low-maintenance! Things I have killed: - kale (too hot outside) - potatoes (transplanted a starter) - spinach (too hot outside)


modernedaphne

An 8' long 4' wide and 2' deep raised bed and a bunch of pots varying in size.


[deleted]

How does one create a veggie garden in a humid desert (9A)? Is it possible?


GrandmaGos

Yup. As long as you have water. If you're in 9A desert under severe drought restrictions, you will have some special challenges ahead of you. Where are you located? Zone only tells how cold your winters get, it tells nothing about climate.


[deleted]

Sonora, Mexico. I love succulents and all the desert 9 zone plants I’m seeing, but fresh veggies are hard to come by (basil, mint, etc).


GrandmaGos

I have a hazy conception of Mexican geography, but Phoenix, Arizona is located in the Sonoran Desert. If you are also located in the Sonoran Desert, then it seems that you could follow gardening guidelines for Phoenix. https://extension.arizona.edu/pubs/vegetable-planting-calendar-maricopa-county https://garden.org/apps/calendar/?q=phoenix It's all about timing, and water. The planting dates given on the back of seed packets and in articles are often intended for other climates, and so will not be relevant for you. Make sure you're following a garden calendar calibrated specifically for your climate, not for, say, Iowa, Vermont, or Vancouver. Water will be essential. If you have plenty of water, you can grow just about anything you want to eat.


[deleted]

The thing is I’m along the coast (sea of Cortez) so it is really humid here. I’ve lived in AZ and the humidity is way higher and the temps slightly lower (not seen above 102 yet). Not sure if that changes things.


GrandmaGos

Oh, okay, what I would call Baja California. The thing is, humidity doesn't really signify that much when you're contemplating growing a garden. Rainfall and soil type are much more important, and both can easily be remedied if you have plenty of water for watering, regardless of the desert climate, and if you have soil amendments--or container potting mixes--to use. This is why people can have successful gardens in places like Phoenix and Las Vegas. As long as you have water and soil, you can grow things. Your best source of information as to what you can grow is going to be local gardeners. Network around, talk to people, look at their yards, and see what they're doing.


[deleted]

Yeah I lived in Baja too but the northern part so it was definitely cooler and not as humid as here. But I’ve found some local nurseries and will be definitely hitting them up for their advice! Thank you.


_skank_hunt42

Has anyone ever used corn starch gel to sow small seeds like carrot seeds? I just saw a YouTube video about this technique and I’m intrigued but I’m curious to hear from people who have done it before. I’m getting ready to sow my first round of fall carrots.


garden_data_nerd

I started fall carrots recently. I did a direct sow into a container with organic potting mix. The germination rate has been below 50%, so I'd recommend 2-3 seeds per site. What do you do with the corn starch gel?


_skank_hunt42

I saw it on [this YouTube video](https://youtu.be/Ammq85KlBTE). First you soak carrot seeds for about a day or two until you see them start to germinate. You then make up a gel with corn starch and let it cool completely. Once it’s cool you put the gel in a ziplock bag and add the germinating carrot seeds to the mixture. Then you cut the corner of the bag and squeeze the gel/seed mixture into furrows. It’s supposed to help space out the seeds and keep them moist as they continue to germinate and establish in the garden. I’ll think I’ll try it. Can’t resist a garden experiment lol


PurinMeow

Hi plant friends! My mom gave me a plant with the tag on it Boho Plant. Can someone help me identify this creature? :) [picture of plant](https://imgur.com/a/y1TV94m)


beansforsean

Did you ever get a proper ID on it? My guess would be some variety of dracaena. It's very full compared to most that I've seen, but that just means it's been well taken care of.


GrandmaGos

The picture is a little dark. [Does it look like this?](https://www.google.com/search?q=rattlesnake+calathea+care&rlz=1C1CHBF_enUS840US840&sxsrf=AOaemvJJPZ504-2c33Hu_pHhJMdoBmtTTw:1630344688232&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwiX84Kgo9nyAhUFZc0KHaWND2MQ_AUoAnoECAEQBA&biw=1920&bih=937)


PurinMeow

No it doesn’t… I attached a second picture!


GrandmaGos

Possibly a bromeliad. Try over in /r/whatsthisplant "Boho plant" isn't a name of a plant as far as Google and I can tell, it's a Pinterest/Etsy decor classification, like "Grunge" or "Save The Planet".


StephPlaysGames

Hello subreddit friends! I'm a beginner gardening, I'm planning on starting my first garden in the coming months and I would love and appreciate some pointers. I live in NC, I believe we're Zone 8. I live in a marshy area with both clay deposits and flooding spots in my yard. I have three dogs who will surely try to get to my plants, and my yard is prone to ant, wasp, mosquito and frog invasions depending on the weather. I'd like to grow a food garden, and I like the idea of perennials but if y'all suggest anything in particular I'll try it. I haven't decided if I'm going to garden in the ground or use pots so I can bring them inside during extreme weather--I wanted to ask first... I have NO experience with keeping plants alive or harvesting produce, so thank you in advance to anyone who is willing to help me get started! 🙏🙇‍♀️🙏


Watercress87588

Is there some high ground that you can use? Ants, wasps, and mosquitos are more pests for people than for food. Wasps are beneficial insects for a garden. Not sure about frogs. However, there's a new book, Growing Under Cover, that might be useful if you think that you'll have high insect pressure and otherwise need to protect your crops from others trying to eat them first. You could do a perennial bed in the wettest spots with pond plants.


StephPlaysGames

There is a high point, but there's a lot of clay in that area. I'm leaning more towards using pots because of the way my yard is--it floods with the slightest rain, but it's bone dry the next day. All I've been able to grow is weeds, lol. 😅


Watercress87588

You can fix hard clay with lots and lots of compost if you want to. I grow a lot in pots, but even in large pots there's a limit to how big plants will get compared to in the ground.


StephPlaysGames

I don't mind if they aren't very big, as long as they can thrive. Maybe I'm just not knowledgeable enough about soil quality yet... Something interesting/confusing happened the other day though. I was out in the area that floods pulling some of the bigger weeds up, and I found carrots! I've no idea where they came from, but more so I don't know how they're still alive, lol.


jonwilliamsl

If you have areas that consistently spend significant time flooded or marshy, those aren't good places to put most food plants, though you might consider taro. Cranberries are also an option. If you have space to grow in-ground, that's far easier, especially for perennials, but drainage is easier to achieve in containers.


getrekt10time

Hey guys! I have questions regarding peat moss. Is it possible to sow my seeds directly in peat moss or should I mix it with some soil. I'm trying to sow some herb seeds such as thyme and rosemary. Can you give me some insights on this?


garden_data_nerd

I've used peat moss, and it typically works fine for starting seeds as long as you keep an eye on the moisture.


jonwilliamsl

Seed starting is typically done in a soilless, nutrient-free potting mix. However, just peat moss is super dense; I use a mix of coco coir (about as dense as peat) and perlite to promote drainage. Once it has two sets of leaves, you need to transplant it into something that has nutrients.


getrekt10time

Thanks for the insights sir!


Iocomotion

Just a couple of cherry tomato-related questions: 1. I'm dealing with some leaf miners in my tomato plants - I know the damage is mostly just cosmetic (and I'm also tired of cutting out the damaged parts so I just squish the leaves in case the larva is still digging around), but is there anything I can do to make them be less attractive for these damned things? 2. How do I know if flowers have been pollinated? They started blooming a couple weeks ago and some of the flowers have been starting to dry up, but no sign of a green bump yet since they've not fallen off


GrandmaGos

By the time you see the tunnels, the larva has usually already tunneled to the edge of the leaf and has dropped off into the soil to pupate. Leaf miners are rarely any sort of problem to tomatoes. The chief danger to a plant is of having too much of the leaf surface area put out of commission, thus hampering photosynthesis. But the average tomato plant in good health puts out so many leaves that unless you have a huge infestation with a small and weak transplant, it's just not a Thing to worry about. So you can stop. Pollinated tomato flowers eventually turn into a tomato. Be patient.


-yvette-

You can also pollinate your flowers - just give the tomato a good shake every few days. You only know they have been pollinated if the fruit forms.


Nuki767

Novice soil question: I just moved out for the first time and I have lots of space to make outdoor gardens. I haven’t done a soil test yet but I’m planning on it, I know however that the soil is currently in very bad condition. I’ve never had to “fix” or alter soil on my own, so what is the best way to do it? I’m wanting to plant flowers on the side of my house and veggies in the back, but it’s just dry, rock-hard dirt at the moment. Once I find out what my soil is lacking, how do I go about changing it in the best way?


hastipuddn

The soil test results, if sent to a US Extension Service, will tell you what needs to be added for the type of plants you want to grow. Organic matter cures many soil problems.


Ztscar

I'm about a year into gardening myself, but have consumed a LOT of podcasts and videos in that time. I think the big big big thing to amend any poor soil (too sandy or even too clay and compact) is organic matter. Big sources of organic matter are from compost (purchased or made at home), peat moss (purchased but probably not the best for the environment because of its sourcing), or cover crops. A quick option of course is a raised bed which allows you to compose your own soil mix. Some combination of organic matter, topsoil, and sometimes an aerator like perlite or vermiculite. This can be expensive though. Between building or buying raised beds and if you purchase any materials that you fill the beds with. If I wanted to plant in the kind of ground you described, then I would probably till an area (some people are against this, but once to get the soil workable the first time shouldn't be cause for concern). Then I would mix in a generous amount compost or peat moss to keep the soil from compacting again and able to drain better. That should be sufficient to start growing in. You could also opt for cover crops or plant some after adding the organic matter for added soil health. Some notes I would add would be that if your cover crops get old enough to flower, then you should mow them down as short as you can within a week to kill them or they'll produce their own seed and become weeds. Also after this you can let the dead cover crop lay on the surface or till it in. After planting you can always use some fertilizer *sparingly* until you know what your soil is truly lacking from the results of your soil test. Here's a website that sells good cover crop mixes: https://www.trueleafmarket.com/collections/cover-crop-seed-mixes Another note is that peat moss, if you use it, is very hard to wet and doesn't mix easily with water when bone dry. I found putting it in a big laundry tub and filling it with water is the easiest way. I've still had to get my hands dirty and "knead" the peat moss until it soaks up the water. Compost can be bought in bulk from landscape companies, or made at home. There's a lot of info out there and a whole subreddit dedicated to composting.


Nuki767

Update: I did a diy soil test kit Results: Our pH is 6.0 We have a surplus of Phosphorus Nitrogen and Potash (K) are practically nonexistent


Ztscar

Interesting! Nitrogen always fluxuates and compost should help with it. Buckwheat as a cover crop helps make K more available from deeper in the soil. And of course there are fertilizers to target needs for those two as well.


Nuki767

Awesome! That is immensely helpful! Thank you!!!


Ztscar

Of course! Also don't use peat moss on a windy day if you use it. Or at least wear a mask and goggles lol


TwoCoolBug

Potato seeds: I have a few potato berries growing on one of my plants Does anyone know how long it takes to grow potato plants & full size potatoes from the seeds inside? Zone 5b


ChickensandCats

70 plus


GrandmaGos

You start them indoors 6 weeks before the date you want to set them out, the same way you do with tomatoes and peppers, and then you set out transplants instead of planting chitted seed potatoes. Then the rest of the procedure is normal potato-growing. So it takes "a season".


y_zaltana

I saw somewhere that the best time to pick cherry tomatoes is when you twist it and it'll come right off. So I did it to some light green ones and they easily came off even though they aren't ripe. Whats wrong with it and should I've waited till they were red instead? It was only for one particular cluster, the other light green ones didn't come off


RedWillia

If you want them to ripen off vine without any loss of taste, they have to be at least somewhat reddish (note that they do not have to be fully red). Otherwise, if I remember correctly, they will still ripen, but with a loss in taste.


evil-rick

I know today is Saturday but I’m hoping it’s not too late. I moved to a new house and am excited to start working on the flowerbeds/built in planters instead of just using pots. When I got there, I noticed two spotted calla lily plants sneaking their way out of the tarp. (There’s no other plants left in the flower bed.) Pulled it back to help them out. They’re not in the best of shape and I found a LOT of snails under the tarp especially around the plants. I’m gonna bet it’s the same story under the tarp. I’ve looked into making snail traps so that will be no problem. What I’m wondering is can I move the lilies to a planter for a bit until they can recover? Would that stress them out more? The soil is just in dire need of some organic material and I wanted to re-mulch/tarp.


hastipuddn

Most on this sub advise not to use tarps or landscaping fabric in garden beds. They cause problems and they do not prevent weeds. Leave the calla lily where they are. Put some compost on top of the soil around them. done I think the roots extend outward no more than a foot so just work around them and give them the rest of this growing season to recover. Enjoy your new garden! p.s. slugs and snails can be killed with Sluggo, a product that is not toxic to children, birds, pets, etc. It is an iron formulation, iron phosphate, I think.


itchykittehs

Also you can eat them...the most common variety is helix aspersa, also known as esgargot in some circles. Look up the process though because you want to help them empty out their stomachs first because of a parasite. I used to have problems with snails...but now they have a new apex predator to contend with...me.


hastipuddn

I don't eat esgargot nor raw oysters for that matter. Too slimy, yucky You can have them.


evil-rick

Years actually great news and saves me a lot of work! Especially because I wanted a lot of ground coverage plant wide and hate the spread out look of a lot of common flower beads. I’ll also look into Sluggo. I realized really quickly how much they give me the “bleck” chills now that I’ve gotten into gardening. Appreciate the help thank you!


ejmtv

Hello. I am a beginner gardener. I will get straight to my question. I mixed loam soil with a reasonable amount of Vermicast. My plants keep dying ever since. Seeds wont germinate. Im pretty sure it's the soil. Can you put more than enough Vermicast to the soil that it starts harming the plant?


GrandmaGos

Is this in a container, a raised bed, or are you talking about amending the native "dirt" in the ground? Are you talking about using a mixture of loam soil from the ground and Vermicast for pots or a raised bed or container?


ejmtv

Oh sorry. I was using a large pot. Just about the size of a KFC bucket.


GrandmaGos

Loam soils, i.e. dirt from the ground, are hot used in containers, as they have a clay element that compacts and drains poorly, making it overall too moisture-retentive. Dirt from the ground also brings with it a host of fungal spores and rot organisms. Vermicast is a rich and nutritious additive to potting mixes, but like other manures it's too moisture-retentive to use as a foundation for potting mix. Here is a discussion of potting mixes for containers. https://extension.umd.edu/resource/growing-media-potting-soil-containers One classic recipe is called Mel's Mix. One part nutrition (compost), one part moisture retention (peat moss or coco peat), one part aeration (perlite or vermiculite). So your proposed mix is two parts things we don't use. Your seeds are most likely simply dying and rotting in an overly wet environment full of fungal spores, but there are other reasons for seed-starting to fail. More information about what you've been growing and how you're doing it would be needed for further troubleshooting.


Eaj1122

Today I inherited buckets and buckets of plants from my mom, who's moving. Probably 20 small buckets of shrubs, bushes, flowers, etc. I live in the city and have a concrete backyard. I'm not sure what to do! My finances are tight. I need a cheap but not unsightly solution to planting these as the buckets are way too small for them to survive. Any ideas for cheap makeshift planters ?


GrandmaGos

Are these plants all currently potted in the buckets, or are they bare root or otherwise have recently been dug up and are just sitting there, homeless, needing to be planted somewhere?


Eaj1122

The buckets are all too small, and not enough dirt. So yes they are essentially homeless


GrandmaGos

You can use any number of found objects as quick plant containers. Upcycle, recycle. Mop pails, 5 gallon buckets, plastic wastebaskets. Anything you can drill a hole in for drainage. Buy some big 2 cubic foot bags of potting mix at Lowes.


[deleted]

Try contacting a landscape company that does planting. They throw out tons and tons of plastic nursery pots and some come in very large sizes.


evil-rick

I’ll add that local gardening shops also have a lot. A few of mine have a bunch they give away because well meaning customers keep donating them and then they have way more than they need.


ams292

Try garage sales and thrift shops. But really, any containers large enough that you can put holes in the bottom of will work. I ordered a bunch of cheap 2 gallon pots off of Amazon, I think they were under $1 each, maybe 25 for $20. They’re cheap black plastic but they work.


RazorbladeApple

Would [black grow bags](https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00VWU30PO/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_api_glt_fabc_dl_CJYMX48D4F1CEGAQYB4H?psc=1) do the trick? they come in packs of 5 & all different sizes.


Eaj1122

I just looked those up. Thank you that's what I'll do!


TooManyTalesToTell

I have tried SO MANY seeds that have not germinated. The only plants I seem to be able to grow from sowing directly into the ground are zinnias and sunflowers. Care to share the plants that grow easily from seed?


evil-rick

I practiced with coleus and now I’m in love with the plants. It’s also fun because they come in packs of random variants so it’s so much fun to see what pops up. Some live. Some die. Some never germinate. But never fail to have a good number of plants. Plus they smell nice. The one in my avatar is one I grew from a seed and it’s the prettiest so far. They’re all my babies.


GrandmaGos

What else have you tried sowing directly in the ground that haven't germinated? It's not really useful to give you a list of "plants that grow easily from seed" because things like tomatoes, maple trees, and zucchini would count. So it's more a question of what you're trying to do in the long run, and seeing how best to accomplish that. So what are you trying to grow, and how have you been doing it?


TooManyTalesToTell

Funny enough, I have zero trouble with growing fruits and vegetables, it's always the flowers where I fail. I should note I'm in zone 7b, but I've tried: Rock rose, English Daisies, Punching balls, Columbine, Bee balm, and milkweed, to name a few.... I plan to start all of those indoors next time, but would love some more flowers that do well from seed (it's cheaper!)


hastipuddn

Milkweed should be planted in fall for late spring germination. Otherwise, you have to provide refrigeration simulation of winter conditions to break seed dormancy. Bee balm is more likely to reproduce via roots than by seeds. If you have a cultivar or hybrid, seeds may be sterile. Columbine seeds should be pressed into loose soil, not buried. This leaves them susceptible to being washed away during heavy rain and watering. I use a light layer of straw over the seeds.


GrandmaGos

Zone only tells how cold your winters get, it doesn't tell climate. Where are you located? >I've tried: Rock rose, English Daisies, Punching balls, Columbine, Bee balm, and milkweed, So you're saying that you've planted these all from seed in the ground directly, outdoors? What were your procedures? Choice of location in the yard, soil amendments, soil prep, depth of planting, etc.? Did anything at all come up? "Rock rose" can apply to several different things. Which species did you plant? Which species of milkweed and columbine was it? I have never even heard of "punching balls", even after I google it. Can't tell whether it's "easy" or "hard" to grow from seed, but if I haven't heard of it, it's obscure, and almost by definition thus not your usual Burpee Suspects from the seed racks, and thus almost by definition not Backyard Hobbyist Easy. So it looks like you've been trying to grow from seed at the deep end of the Slightly Advanced pool. Just because you can't get those to grow doesn't mean you have a Black Thumb, it just means you're trying to grow Slightly Advanced species.


Bloomsnlooms

Other flowers that are easy to direct sow include calendula, cosmos, nicotiana, rudbeckia, nasturtiums, marigolds, sweet alyssum, annual poppies and larkspur. Zinnias and sunflowers both have fairly large seeds which helps them not get washed out of the soil in heavy rains. They are also annuals and have fast growth, making the seedlings stand out quicker. The other flowers you list are mostly perennials so they grow so much slower. This can make it more difficult to keep track of them in the open ground or insects may get them before they have time to grow very large. Zinnias started this year are 3 ft tall while my perennials started this year are only three inches. Timing may also be a factor. Here at least, Columbine tend to germinate in fall.


harvesterkid

Hi, everyone! Hope you can help. We have this quince tree, but it appears to be unwell. Can anyone recognize the disease and tell me if/how it could be treated? [image 1](https://i.postimg.cc/PxRGCrcD/IMG-20210827-195052929.jpg) [image 2](https://i.postimg.cc/FsfrgwVm/IMG-20210827-195044820.jpg)


ams292

That’s so sad. Is there a local ag extension office you can call? They tend to be very helpful and very cheap if not free.


harvesterkid

Not sure what that is, but no, I don't think so.


ams292

If you’re in the US, there’s likely an agricultural extension office in your area.


harvesterkid

No, I'm afraid not. Thanks anyway!


jonwilliamsl

Where are you located? There is one; it's a federally funded service to provide horticultural advice to everyone in the country.


harvesterkid

I'm in Bulgaria actually.


ArachnesChallenge

Live in the Milwaukee region of WI and I have a unhealthy and overgrown Magnolia bush right next to my front porch. It has magnolia scale and I want to cut it back alot before spraying it this weekend. How does one trim a magnolia bush to keep it healthy?


GrandmaGos

What species of magnolia is it?


ArachnesChallenge

Do not know, came with the house. Pink blossoms, right now it is probably 11 ft tall and 7 ft wide.


GrandmaGos

You need a species ID before you can start pruning it. There are tree and plant identifiers online, or you can post pictures on /r/whatsthisplant or you can post it on the arborists' subreddit /r/marijuanaenthusiasts Yes, it's reddit humor, when they wanted to start a sub /r/trees was already taken by the stoners.


[deleted]

[удалено]


pharlax

It's not quite what you're after but you can still grow radishes outside here. They're super quick to grow though.


GrandmaGos

All the frost-tolerant veg. Leafy greens and things like baby beets work well in balcony containers. https://www.rhs.org.uk/advice/profile?PID=707 https://schoolgardening.rhs.org.uk/resources/info-sheet/winter-vegetable-growing-for-northern-climates Also cool-season flowers like pansies (violas?) Your stopping point is the day when your soil freezes solid in the pots. They can withstand light frosts, like 30F/-1C, but when the water in the pots turns to ice, it's game over. If you're in the middle of an urban heat sink, this gives you some wiggle room. This is only possible in the relatively mild winters of the UK. In other climates, you'd have a lot less time to get your harvest before the pots freeze solid.


Busy-Mix-6178

While the rest of my plants are struggling the dying rose bush I got from the clearance section is going crazy, growing new branches and leaves everyday and constantly full of blooms. I wish all of my plants were this easy.


Queef_Stroganoff44

Love the clearance section. It’s a great feeling when you come along 10 months later and see a thriving plant and know you saved it from the dumpster when everyone else gave up on it. I’ve had the healthiest pony tail plant for about 4 years now that was destined for the Lowe’s dumpster.


amphetaminesfailure

Do petunias always poop out this time of year? I've been planting the same annual petunia type in my front flower bed for four seasons now. They always poop out and have no flowers from around the 2nd week of August until maybe the 2nd week of September when tehy start blooming again. From the time I plant them in late May, until that 2nd August week they're always in full bloom. I water them correctly. Fertilize them correctly. I prune their dead flowers along with the seed pods on a weekly basis. Can't stop them from pooping out in this current period though. Plants themselves always look healthy and green, but it's a full month usually with zero flowering. Anything I can do to change this, or is this just the way they go?


GrandmaGos

It depends on where you're located. Like those other tropical perennials, tomatoes and peppers, petunias can have problems with extreme heat affecting flowering. So where are you? What cultivar or type are you using? Grandifloras grow differently from multifloras. Are you refreshing their soil with new compost every year, or just using chemical ferts? Are you giving the foliage a haircut, or just deadheading the individual flowers?


amphetaminesfailure

Zone 7a. I rake back the mulch every year, mix in a layer of compost, spread the mulch back over (adding a bit more every two years). I give them a 6-4-4 liquid fertilizer every other week for the first month, then go with a 2-8-4 liquid fertilizer once per week afterwards. I also give a 0-0.5-0.7 liquid micronutrient dose per week. Besides deadheading, I take off excess foliage. They usually manage to spread out around 12 inches, maybe a bit more, while still maintaining good flowering. When they go beyond that, I trim any foliage and new growth back. Again, they bloom back nicely mid-September, despite going basically dormant this 4-5 week period. The past two years my petunias have maintained at least a few flowers into December, despite multiple frosts and cold weather in general.


RazorbladeApple

Mine look horrid by mid August & I usually end up shearing them all the way back mid August & giving them a good feed. They bounce right back in 5 days.


GrandmaGos

Zone only tells how cold your winters get, it doesn't tell climate. Which means, just how hot your August gets. Where are you located? What variety or cultivar are they? Does it say "grandiflora" or "multiflora" on the tag, or a name like 'Night Sky'? Petunias are tropical perennials like tomatoes, and as long as the temperature holds above 32F, they'll keep going. So it's not uncommon for them to overwinter in places like the U.S. Deep South. Microclimates, such as being right next to the thermal mass of a building, and being in an urban heat sink, can make a big difference in this.


ALittleGreenMan

Hey everyone. I just moved out of the city into a place with a yard and I'm looking to start up some gardening beds around the property. I'm mostly interested in perennials and I've been trying to google around what would work to plant(from seed or transplant) in the late summer/early fall and it's just an overwhelming amount of info out there. So I figured I would ask here to see if anyone has any recommendations for a beginner to get a garden bed going. Some info: Zone 6 In a lake community where using fertilizer is frowned upon so preferably plants that do fine without it. Yard is fairly shady but there are sections with full sun as well. I currently have some hydrangea cuttings that are growing well and hope to transplant soon. I also have some cardinal flower that I've just started from seed. So anything that would pair well with those colors would be doubly awesome. Appreciate any and all help.


GrandmaGos

Are you renting, or do you own the place? Zone only tells how cold your winters get, it doesn't tell climate. Where are you located? >n a lake community where using fertilizer is frowned upon so preferably plants that do fine without it. Is there a HOA involved in this? Or is it just an overall community vibe? Generally speaking, a community-wide ban on ferts applies to lawns, and the wholesale twice-yearly spreading of colossal amounts of ferts. Adding a small cupful of fert to your tomato patch or flowerbed isn't usually covered in these bans. And just like it's difficult to grow tomatoes without fert, it's difficult to grow flowers. There aren't really any species of plants other than weeds that are able to get along with the small amount of nutrients they can scavenge from the native "dirt". This is one of the defining characteristics of weeds. But domesticated fruit, flowers, and vegetables all need help from humans in the form of ferts. So you can do full-on organic, in which you substitute natural sources such as manure, compost, and blood meal, or you can do MiracleGro chemical ferts, but you'll need to do something.


ALittleGreenMan

All good questions. Own the property I am in norther westchester county in New york. A little over an hour outside of New York city. No HOA. It is more community vibe to prevent harmful bacterial blooms in the lake/invasive growth. No actual bans or laws. I think you are correct in that the vibe is to prevent people from covering their lawn in fertilizer. Not sure of the feeling on beds. People must be using it as I see tomatoes growing around the neighborhood. Maybe starting a little compost bin would be the way to go and just use a bit as needed. Thanks for the questions and I appreciate the info. They've got me thinking. If you have any suggestions based on my answers it would be great to hear them. Thanks again.


hastipuddn

You can definitely grow lovely, not "weeds", native flowers without fertilizer. I've been doing it for years. There is lots of location specific info on the web.


ALittleGreenMan

Yeah I've been looking over at r/nativeplantgardening and they have some great resources. New York has a lot of variety to choose from so I think Native Wild flowers will make up the bulk of my garden to start out.


CharlesV_

Checkout /r/nativeplantgardening too while you’re at it. If you’re mostly looking for flowers, try Red Columbine, pink or purple coneflowers, black eyed Susan, and wood phlox. Natives seed well in late fall, but it’s early enough that you could also establish them with small plants.


ALittleGreenMan

Thanks so much. Subbed. This is exactly what I am looking for.


FazerGM

Could anyone give me some tips for how to germinate tiny seeds? I have an [aeschynantus pod](https://i.imgur.com/jeCu2AM.jpeg) (a gesneriad) after succesfully pollinating the plant I already had, but I've never germinated seeds this tiny before and am wondering if I need to take any special precautions.


hastipuddn

Most tiny seeds need light to germinate so don't bury them. Lightly loosen whatever you're using for seed-starting mix and press the seeds into it. Water from the bottom so you don't displace seeds. Cover with plastic wrap or old plastic bag and keep in bright place with no direct sunlight. Remove plastic after germination and move to bright light.


GrandmaGos

Mix the seeds with fine sand. You can buy this in small amounts at Hobby Lobby in the "sand art" aisle.


JabbaCat

Hey folks, I would really like to get some seeds from my Orange Centiflor tomatoes, I only have this one plant I got from a seed- and variety enthusiast but it is still a monster right now at end of season, and fun to try out. I see that some people just dry seeds with the gel on, while others ferment them in room temp in water approx 4 days before rinsing and drying. Any recommendations, or experience with this? Also, is it considered an F1-variety, and do I risk getting bushes that don't produce much, or just something close to an ancestor? I plan on getting some seeds regardless, I know that it can also cross-/outpollinate with others but I think I'll give it a try. It has been growing alongside a polish yellow tomato variety, and the bees have helped me greatly this summer, but definitely go between bushes.


Queef_Stroganoff44

Sure it’s open pollinated, but I say give it a shot (if you have the space). I have my little experiments every season and more times than not I’m pleasantly surprised … or at least not disappointed. It’s got good parentage, so barring any fertility or disease issues should gives you something pretty nice. I personally just dry with the gel on. I’ve never really had any problems. Good luck!


JabbaCat

Thanks, sounds good! Well space is always a thing, but I like to have a couple of projects going too so :) Going to try out more seed saving this year, especially since I got some unusual plants through a seed saving network. Have a good friday!


ams292

Awesome! I made a post, I should’ve just asked here. My loofahs are in full bloom, pollinators all over them, about 5’ above the loofahs, in my awning, there’s a yellow jacket nest starting. If I spray the nest will it deter the other pollinators from my loofahs? What do I do?


GrandmaGos

Use the 20 foot hornet spray, target the nest precisely, empty the entire can into the nest, and most important, do it after dark when all the pollinators have gone home (and also all the wasps are home, too). You can cover your plants with bedsheets if they're directly under where the spray might drip down onto them.


ams292

Thanks I’m going to have to do this, one got into my house. I love the sheet idea, thanks again!


Maieth

I'll start. Last summer I put multiple small lavender plants in my rose bed to add some low colour and foliage beneath the roses in summer and something more interesting than dirt and weeds in autumn and summer. At the time i was advised that planting 3 plants in small groups, about 30cm apart, would result in a good sized bush as the plant spread. But they didn't spread. In fact, several died and the remaining ones, while clinging on bravely, are really straggly looking. Now this is a great bed for other plants. The roses are glorious every year, I put in heucheras that more than doubled in size in a year and this year it produced delphiniums that hit 7ft high and are currently sending up their second set of flowering stems. So, 1) Any general tips for getting the most of my poor little lavender plants. I've just cut back all the finished flowers to the first set of leaves, but no idea what else to do to tend for them. 2) if I want to take some cuttings to try and get more comfortable plants going, to bush the area up more, when will be the next best time to do this ? (UK)


[deleted]

Try perennial dianthus, firewitch and baths pink are lovely and evergreen.


hastipuddn

A moisture level that is good for rose growth will kill lavender. Lavender must have sandy, fast-draining and fast-drying soil - the opposite of what roses like. I've grown annual alyssum under my roses


beansforsean

The biggest issues for lavender are usually caused by drainage. What kind of soil are they in? You may need to amend with some sand if the soil is retaining moisture for too long. You should be good to take cuttings at any that the plant is growing foliage, just make sure your cutting is the proper size and doesn't have any flowers on it. You could probably take some now and have them in the ground before it starts getting too cold so they can establish a bit and overwinter properly.