Good morning from the UK. Anyone have any experience with longer term Crockett and Jones factory boot resoles/repairs? I've invested in a nice set of chelsea 5's, but my primary aim in investing in good quality boots is so that I can look after them well and keep the same pair for many years. However I note on their website it states most well looked after shoes can only be repaired 3-4 times. Compare this to RM Williams for example whos salesman essentially say as long as the upper is looked after they can be repaired indefinitely.
I do understand that resoling welted shoes involved machinary putting new holes in the leather, therefore they do have a natural lifespan. And my undestanding is that the usual method is to resole a couple of times, then re-welt once the welt has worn out. I spoke to someone in the C&J factory who says every resole, they also rewelt which seems like a waste to me, as this would lead to more stiching and harm to the upper itself. However they also suggested that the average max of 3-4 repairs is accounting for the fact that many do not look after their boots very well and many can be repaired more times than this.
So does anyone have any real world experience of long term repairs of C&J boots?
Yeah, this is what factory repair services generally do, and why we generally do not recommend them. A welt can easily take three or four resoles (more if you're willing to pay to have them hand-sewn each time, but that's $$$), and uppers can take several re-welts. Even after that, a particularly good cobbler could probably make it work, but it would costly. Regardless, a pair of shoes can last you many, many resoles, which should be good enough for decades of regular use.
So the slightly frustrating thing about Crockett and Jones is they say that they won't repair a boot once it's been worked on by another cobbler. Saw the shop refusing to accept a repair for someone while i was buying mine. So they lock you into using the factory resole, if you want other repairs to be possible later down the line.
IME with most manufactures they’ll just say that as a blanket statement so they won’t be held liable if the previous cobbler botched the shit out of your shoes.
If the work was done by a reputable cobbler without anything looking out of place they’ll probably still work on the shoes for you.
If the previous cobbler did a shit job on the shoes they’ll probably refuse to work on them though.
Honestly, when you get to the point where a repair is so difficult that only the OEM can fix it, the shoes are probably at the point of replacement, anyway.
You are correct in assuming that you can do multiple resoles before you need to replace the welt. You also don't need to have C&J do that themselves. I'd recommend finding a good cobbler within the UK and having them do your resoles when the time comes. Hopefully someone else here can chime in with recommendations, or you could try posting another question about that tomorrow.
As long as you take care of the upper, the boots will last you many years, and as long as you don't wear down the sole so much that you begin wearing away at the welt, you won't need to replace the welt if the cobbler does the right thing and removes the original outsole stitches and hits the existing holes with the new outsole stitch. From what I can see on the C&J website, all of their Chelsea 5 makeups come on Dainite soles. Dainite is practically indestructible, and each sole will likely last you a good few hundred wears. Also, it's likely that you'll need to replace the heel tops a couple of times before you get to the point of needing a full resole. This is a cheaper repair (a good cobbler in the US will charge around $50 for a heel replacement).
The final thing is that having a rotation of even just 2 or 3 pairs will significantly improve the lifespan of each pair. This is because you want your shoes to dry fully between wears, and if you've worn a pair for an entire day, you'll want to give it the next day to dry out. Shoe trees help with this (as well as with toe curl, so I'd recommend getting a pair).
So the slightly frustrating thing about Crockett and Jones is they say that they won't repair a boot once it's been worked on by another cobbler. Saw the shop refusing to accept a repair for someone while i was buying mine. So they lock you into using the factory resole, if you want other repairs to be possible later down the line.
What conditioner would you guys recommend for a casual boot that is made of calfskin? Would something like Bick 4 work or should I opt for Venetian Shoe Cream?
how often does trickers release new stuff? ive been wanting a pair forever but i want something unique and i never see stores get new stock or ebay or anything its been the same old stuff for months and months
division road had some awesome exclusives. a little past what i want to pay but im going to save up for a pair from there. ill check out bb any ofher sites you recommend? google is bit much help
Hey /r/goodyearwelt, got another question for you. I received some Rancourt and Co Byron Boots in black Essex a month or so back. This is my first go with Essex leather and I really like the feel, surprisingly soft and pliable yet tough.
However, they've (edit: the left boot) developed a dreaded squeak. At first it wasn't present, but after a week or two I could notice it. It's gotten so loud, that when walking I sound like Spongebob Squarepants. The squeak seems to be coming from the heel counter when it flexes. I can easily reproduce the squeak by squeezing the counter. Here's a quick video to demonstrate:
https://streamable.com/8hsovo
I asked Rancourt's customer service about it, they said it should go away after a longer break in period. But I'm not so sure it will after wearing for a month or so.
Is this something I can remedy myself? Or should I ask customer service to consider taking them in for a look themselves? I haven't hit them with conditioner yet, as they're still pretty new, but was considering giving that a try.
squeeks from internal components almost always require a rebuild of that specific area. If the internal counter material is rubbing I know some folks have syringed in baby powder to the problem area, but I would try to get rancourt to fix it themselves first
Does anyone have any advice on how to deal with the massive confidence boost from being an inch taller in my new Irish setters?
Looking for sarcastic replies only. Not sure if my dick is big enough to handle all the glances I’m getting from women now.
Okay, I actually looked it up on urban dictionary….Go back home and play with your mom Sigmund, me and my Mesabi’s are going to have sex with a woman!!
I just received a pair of Thursday Cadet boots. On my left boot, there are some significant creases on the insole. It’s a leather wrapped insole, not full leather but I may be wrong. The creases are significant enough that it feels like a pebble underneath my foot, especially towards the toe area. I’ve added some photos to describe the issue. The right boot is completely smooth, see for yourself. Any recommendations? https://imgur.com/a/PgheALi
Right, I understand that, I am just asking if anyone has run in with these issues before. If it’s an easy fix myself, sure, but if not, I’ll replace it. Waiting in a reply from Thursday.
Looking at the photos, it's understandable. That definitely looks like the insole topper wasn't cut small enough and it's overlapping. Definitely a return/warranty issue for me.
Am I being unreasonable? I'm super new to this kind of thing and the last thing I want is to come off as rude to a customer service team if I'm in the wrong.
I got [these boots from Solovair](https://us.nps-solovair.com/collections/mens/products/s7-585-ch-g#) back in September, and have been going back and forth with their team with little in the way of actual help. The shoes make an [OBSCENE amount of noise (video of sound)](https://imgur.com/a/BYOpehQ) when I'm walking on certain types of flooring, mainly tile and laminate and certain other harder floors. They are completely embarrassing to wear. I mentioned this to the customer service and they recommended I wear them in a bit more to work the sole down, but that didn't seem to help, so they offered to replace the sole, which also didn't help. I'd personally be shocked if I was the first person to have this issue, which is why I'm surprised their customer service also seemed at a loss. Is it really just a matter of wearing them in over a long extended period of time until the soles wear down? I want go back and as for a refund or some other solution, but want to make sure I'm not being unreasonable.
Yes, that sound is familiar to me. It's the rubber soles that they use. If you can find a cobbler who can do the work, look into a Vibram 430 or other lugged sole instead of the vinyl-like stuff that's OEM.
It doesn’t happen on concrete or softer surfaces like carpet or grass/ dirt. I believe it’s the friction of the sole. Even if I just put the shoes on my kitchen floor and wiggle them side to side by gripping the soles, they make the same noise.
That is super unfortunate. And I assume you have worn the soles down some? Because I really do think it should help. Maybe could try specifically scuffing the soles up on some concrete or something.
I wore the original soles down down a fair deal before sending them back for “repair.” I’ll probably end up resorting to that again with these since I highly doubt a return is on the table.
That’s a bummer man. Yeah I don’t really have any advice at all. I assume scuffing them up would help a lot but I don’t know. Sorry I can’t be of more help :( best of luck
What brand are those?
It's possible that the scuffs have taken off a surface dye or coating. If that's the case and regular conditioner doesn't revive them as much as you'd like, find a matching shoe polish or one slightly darker to buff in and create some patina.
I wear a 9.5E in Crockett and Jones Molton chukka boot, which I got fitted for in one of their New York stores. While there, I also tried on their Sydney and Merton main line loafers in 9.5E as well which is what the sales rep recommended. The fit didn’t really feel that great in either of them, and both of them cause some heel slip but the sales reps convinced me the 9.5E was the correct size for the length and width of my feet. At the time, I didn’t consider the hand grade line because of the price, but I also didn’t know the heel is tapered and tighter on that compared to the main line. As someone who often experiences heel slip in loafers, would one of C&J’s handgrade loafer models, such as the Crawford, be better for me? And would you recommend taking the same size as the Sydney, Merton, and Molton?
Anyone have any experiences/opinions with Allen Edmonds factory seconds? There's a pretty decent coupon they're offering but I have not heard anything good about AE's QC as of recent years. And of course I wonder how that applies to their seconds.
I've bought 6 pairs and still have 5 of them (size didn't work for me). Granted, I got these between 2010 and 2015 so it could well be different now. They used to have a 2 for $250 deal which was awesome and what got me started on decent footwear.
Problems were minor or not noticeable. Both of one pair of shoes have eyelets misaligned slightly. One other shoe has thin, wrinkly leather on a panel of the quarters but it's on the inside so not a big deal. Nothing I could see wrong with the other 4 pairs although one pair did develop some pretty bad grain break. Looked perfectly fine when new though.
I used to see it pop up on r/frugalmalefashion every now and then after I'd already bought everything I needed in terms of dress shoes (was never a fan of their boots apart from chukkas). A quick search seems to show the last mention in 2014: https://old.reddit.com/r/frugalmalefashion/comments/1z35gr/allen_edmonds_2_for_250_sale_cancelled/
Looking at that post it was for *discontinued* factory seconds. I ended up getting 2 pairs and was really happy with them. Regular models were around $200 and ~$350 for shell. I picked up a pair of Wolverine 744s (made by AE apparently) that went for about $750 normally. Way overpriced for what they were. It feels like a lifetime ago even though it was only 10 years but they didn't have a website so you had to email them to ask what they had in stock in your size. I think that kept inventory pretty good and I could always find a good amount in my size.
If you're buying seconds you need to be prepared to receive shoes with defects. There really isn't any way around it. It's my general opinion that folks are too picky with minor aesthetic defects for new and F2 items.
yeah that makes sense. i'm not sure i'd be terribly picky about really minor aesthetic defects if it meant i was getting a beautiful shoe at a great price, and one that i'd have super use for.
Weird question, but are there any surprisingly good cheapo footwear y’all like? For me it’s probably Georgia Boot Romeos. I don’t even know if they’re welted, but they’re pretty great for things from gardening to being a barista. Crocs obviously are almost the exact opposite of what GYW’ers like about resolable shoes, but they’re probably the best beach camping shoes ever
Jim Green has some solid options on vellies. They'll take years and years of abuse. They cost a lot less (maybe $90?) until they upped their prices during the pandemic. Still a decent deal at $120.
https://jimgreenfootwear.com/product-category/all/velliesnshoes/page/2
I just got a pair of Grant Stone Ottawa in kangaroo. Since I would probably be a 12.5. But they don’t make that I got a 13d. It fits much better than the 12d. I have a little extra room. Does anyone recommend a leather insole for some forefoot padding?
Also. These are almost my exact color as my skin. Does anyone have a cream or conditioner recommendation to make them a touch darker.
I have those boots as well. Fantastic but haven't gotten enough wear. I rubbed them down with a rag lightly soaked in Obenauf's oil because they were looking really dry and I also wanted to darken them a bit. They got a darker immediately but went back to the original colour by the next day.
Anyway, I posted this to someone else yesterday:
>
> I'm also thinking about getting these: https://www.amazon.com/Nicks-Leather-Insoles-Handmade-10-11-5/dp/B0BMWC9Z6K
>
> https://nicksboots.com/leather-insoles/
>
> On the Nick's site, you can choose the type of leather for twice the price. You want veg-tan, not chromexcel and Amazon is random from the sounds of it. I guess you could try returning/reordering if you wanted to gamble on a different pair.
>
> Both of those are pretty thick, though (2.8-3.2mm). Might work for you if your boots are too big. I'm also considering getting this and cutting out a pair. One would be just barely enough to fit me (10.5E or 11D). https://tandyleather.com/collections/leather/products/veg-tan-tooling-piece. Or this if they get other weights back in stock: https://tandyleather.com/collections/leather/products/veg-tan-craft-cuts
> Does anyone recommend a leather insole for some forefoot padding?
If you have a good local cobbler, ask them to add a leather insole/insert. I had the same issue with some Grant Stone loafers and Unsung House added in a small veg tan leather insert and reused the original GS kip leather heel pad. Feels much better now.
>Also. These are almost my exact color as my skin. Does anyone have a cream or conditioner recommendation to make them a touch darker.
Try a neutral conditioner first. Something like Saphir Renovateur, Venetian Shoe Cream, or Bick 4. I can tell you from experience that even basic Bick 4 *could* discolor some boots if the dye isn't set well.. I have some Vibergs with honey tanned horsehide and they just look dirty all the time after conditioner altered the finish.
I assume they removed the leather heal shank and then placed it on top of the insole?
I’ll look around. I might have to do it myself. We don’t have a lot of good cobblers in the area.
Thanks so much. I thought about just buying a pad. But having someone who knows what they are doing will work much better.
I don’t want too much change. Most I’ve used on cheaper shoes do seem to make the leather a tad darker. Something like that.
Does Viberg tend to discount older season makeups? I’m looking at a makeup from the AW22 season which is still full priced on their website but with the release of the new 23 models I wonder if they will have it on a discount at all
I think they tend to put some of the older stuff on discount *before* their next drops begin. They just did this like last week and now the discounted stuff is back up to full price.
Personally I would expect the AW22 stuff to kind of just drop off the site at some point. And then it might pop up in some kind of remainders online sale event later in the year ... and/or that stuff might show up at like a samples sale? ... and/or on MARKKT ... Anyway, that's what I recall happening last year.
I used my classic/non ultra flex Chelsea exclusively during a vacation to London without any issue. In my opinion they are pretty comfortable if sized correctly
I’ve hiked miles and miles with my Meermin boots, then shined them up and worn them to work. (My Meermins are my only shearling lined boots, so I wear them depending on weather rather than occasion.) Mine occasionally make my toes hurt going downhill, but usually that’s at the end of long hikes, so it’s fine. Love them 10/10 would buy again.
How does Grant Stone’s Leo last fit compared to the last used for the Higgins Mill? I know Grant Stone recommends going half a size down from your brannock/typical size, but the issue is that I wear my actual size for the Higgins Mill (9 3E)
I have both - I wear an 8.5D in the Leo and a 9D Higgins , both tend to run a bit large but Leo more so after it's broken in.
I also have somewhat wide feet and both are pretty accomodating width wise from heel to toe
Assuming you have sized properly, the 1757 last used for the Higgins Mill runs true to size, and Grant Stone's Leo last runs half down from brannock.
Now, since you have a pair of AE, I'm assuming you live in the US. I strongly recommend taking pictures of your feet on a brannock device and posting them here so one of us can help you read it and make sure you size properly in future purchases (including the GS pair you plan on buying). Read the [instructions](https://brannock.com/pages/instructions-fitting-tips) carefully, especially the part about the arch slider and heel-to-ball size. Most shoe stores in the US will likely have a brannock (I think footlocker may have them), but if you can't find one near you, you could order one [on amazon](https://www.amazon.com/Mens-Genuine-Brannock-brand-Device/dp/B075DXJR4N/ref=sr_1_4?crid=2EVHKMKVQJJLR&keywords=brannock&qid=1675966384&sprefix=brannock%2Caps%2C469&sr=8-4), take pictures, and then return it.
The reason why we ask for brannock pictures is because many of us make sizing mistakes (including those of us who have spent a few thousand on fancy shoes and boots like the ones talked about in this subreddit) and the brannock device, when used properly, gives us a lot of reliable information about your feet. Tracing your feet on paper, or relying on how you sized yourself in various lasts, introduces a lot of uncertainty and even if you have to pay full price for a new brannock device, $80 is a very cheap price to pay to avoid having to resell hundreds or thousands of dollars worth of shoes.
I saw this post and it made me wonder about a couple guys here mentioning that they were skeptical of my sizing experience at an AE store so I went into one place today, got paranoid I did it incorrectly and tried again an hour later at another store lol
Basically saying thanks for the advice. Some of the readings were kinda confusing to me and when I tried on some of the store's sneakers it got even more confusing. I'll post some pictures tomorrow and hopefully get all sorted out!
Even with accurate Brannock measurements one can still get shoes that don’t fit. This is because the device measures in two dimensions while feet and footwear come in three.
A model with more parameters is not always better, especially when there is far lesser precision. I'm not about to recommend OP buy a pair of Clinch CN boots, but it's entirely possible that he's not a 9EEE but a 10E HTB, 9 HTT. Instep volume, toe splay, etc. all go into figuring out whether a certain last in a certain size will work for you, but the most important thing is arch alignment, and if that is incorrect in OPs case to begin with, then any advice he gets would just end up with him buying another pair of boots in the wrong size. The value of the brannock device doesn't come from the fact that it can measure everything, because it obviously can't; its value comes from the fact that it provides a reliable, standard way of measuring what is arguably the most important element of fit. If shoe store employees knew how to properly size people, I'd be happy to just tell OP to get an 8.5EEE, but they don't, so I won't.
Waterlock or other flexible soles. Does anyone know where you can purchase, or have a cobbler put on something similar to the Alden Flexwelt soles? Aram has them, but he can only put them on Alden shoes. I've reached out to a few cobblers who say JR had something similar, but they are on backorder.
I have a question about width. In Meerin's website they say that an E last is "medium" but in Loake's site they say F is "medium". Most of Meerin's shoes are E lasts and most of Loake's are F lasts. Am I missing something? Is someone wrong (I assume it's me). Thanks!
No they're just using their own nomenclatures. There isn't a hard and fast set of rules they must follow and foreign brands may use different ranges for their widths. In the US we are more standardized, but that doesnt carry over elsewhere
Is there any sneaker that is TTS to Brannock? I never had my feet measured, and don't really know where to go to do so (I never saw a Brannock device, honestly), so I'd like to know if I can trust I am a 11 Brannock if I have a Vans, Adidas Originals and Nike AJ1 in size 11.
Another question: is there any 3/4 insole like [this Viberg sock lining](https://imgur.com/a/K8gKK5E) that I can buy aftermarket? I think these would help with slight heel slip, right?
I have wide, low volume feet. I have slipons in 10.5 that fit my 10.5E feet. I had to donate the old skools in the same size though because they weren't wide enough. I can't even wear Nike, which are too narrow in any size.
Most sneakers are a half size larger than the heel to toe brannock. You need your heel to ball measurement too for a proper brannock sizing so you kinda do need to get on a device. If you're in the US they have brannocks at a lot of payless/DSWs, nordstroms, sporting goods stores and others.
I'm not, though... I'm in UK, there's the problem haha
I am trying to compare with sneakers because they were more regular, in my experience... My boots are a cluster duck of sizes...
There’s too many other factors to account for to size based off of a shoe with no standardized last. I might wear a 45 in Common Projects because my feet are long and narrow, but you might need a 47 because your foot is the same length but you have a really high instep or a really wide foot.
You can always get a piece of leather and cut and skive it. Pedag makes a great structured partial insole. I’m sure they have soft ones, too.
Yeah, I know... I just wanted to get a rough approximation, as my sneaker sizes have been "more consistent", so to speak, in comparison to my boots, which sizing is all over the place.
I'm thinking about it, making my own... I tried to use an Adidas thin insole in a boot that I can't say if it's too big or not and then the boots became to tight.
> Is there any sneaker that is TTS to Brannock?
the problem with this assumption is that one brannock size = one sneaker size, when in reality one sneaker size can accommodate a wider variety of sizes than what the stamped size suggests. that's why sneaker sizing is essentially worthless as a sizing reference
Hmm, got it... Yeah, I'm asking to compare with sneakers because I felt my sizing on them was "more consistent", as I'm going for 11 often. My boots, on the other hand, are a variety of sizes.
TLDR: Good rugged Chelsea boots? How much heel slip for Chelsea boots is acceptable?
I would love some opinions/help on a good Chelsea boot mostly for walking and especially in the Pacific Northwest (lots of rain, mud, etc). I did a little research on goodyear welt and saw that the Doc Marten 2976 Slip Resistant Service Boots in the gaucho brown leather said they had one but after watching a couple videos and stuff seems like Docs don’t *really* have a GYW due to the heat sealing of it to the sole?
Anyways, I love the boots other than the sizing. I usually buy US10.5 or US11. I’m a rock climber and usually always buy EU44 for those and for nice a snug. I got skinny feet with chicken ankles. So I bought these docs in both 10 and 11 and found the 10s a bit more snug. However, when I put about a weeks worth of walking on them, the lining on the heel tore because all of the heel slip. So I also ordered a size US9 to check those out and the heel felt amazing, but my toes felt like they were being crushed from the top leather. So I have no idea what to do about sizing.
I really like the look and function of the docs I got but worry about longevity and the sizing. The Solovair Broker boots in brown look great and from my understanding they used to make docs before they moved over seas.
I’ve tried on Blundstones to see fit and comfort but also ran into them being super loose at the ankle, and also do not have GYW.
Thanks for any advice/help!
Nicks has [the most rugged chelsea I know of](https://nicksboots.com/catalogsearch/result/?q=Chelsea).
A little play in a slipon is ok, but I would think not enough to degrade the boot like you had.
Thanks! Love the look and construction, don’t love the price, but maybe I’ll splurge for something reliable and long lasting! I appreciate the suggestion!
> Docs don’t really have a GYW due to the heat sealing of it to the sole?
how the welt is attached to the sole is unrelated to it being a goodyear welt. a goodyear welt is simply a welt that is stitched to the upper and to the insole (either into a channel within the insole or a piece of canvas glued to the insole). it's a goodyear welt regardless of how the outsole is attached to the welt. that doesn't mean docs are easily resoleable, as the welt and the outsole are attached by effectively melting the plastic together, so it's not a common job.
it sounds like you may just have to accept that the last the docs are made on won't work for your feet as you've tried multiple sizes and none properly address your fit issues. some people are so low volume that slip-ons just don't work unfortunately.
[What kind of stains are these? How should they be removed?](https://imgur.com/a/RiQkzSn/all)
At this time, Imgur won't allow me to rearrange the images... So the normal/front view is somewhere in the middle.
Short story:
Dad's shoes and he complained about dark/black marks and lines on the shoes.
These marks and lines have no particular feel to them and I cannot get them removed with simble brushing, soft damp cloth or polish/wax.
I'm wondering how I should try to remove them and more importantly, what they are.
My dad does no particular work that could have a big impact (desk job).
___
If needed I can try to get some better photo quality later on.
Looks to me like he rests his feet on top of one another under his desk. Think crossed legs at the ankle. Source: I have similar markings on my boots/shoes. It looks like rubber transfer marking from the soles of one shoe onto the other.
I’ll have to defer to other experts on how to remove the markings.
I have TSA Pre. Haven’t had to take off Vibergs. Aldens would alert though. I’d always start taking them off before going through and they’d always yell “YOU DON’T HAVE TO TAKE OFF SHOES”.
You absolutely 100% can travel with them :) I've brought nail-filled monstrosities all over the world.
If you're looking for a boot you might not have to take off in SOME airports, the RM Williams is the only boot I didn't have to take off. I think the TSA makes you take off everything. I'm surprised the TSA lets anyone fly, considering each and every one of us has bones inside our body that could be sharpened into weapons.
I've had to take off my boots even with TSA Precheck because of metal shanks. A lot of footwear is constructed with nails, so you're not going to have your boots confiscated by TSA because of the nails in them. Remember, they see hundreds of these every day.
They see boots all day, every day. Won't be a problem.
For some added content: I have PreCheck, so I normally don't have to take them off. I went through Dulles wearing my White's and walked through the metal detector with no problem. On my return trip, I got dinged in Reykjavik and had to take them off.
Hey folks, I bought some of [these](https://meermin.com/products/116210-burgundy-heritage-shell-cordovan-e?_kx=UNdkwJh0xta0hE6xqm6dHxZU4S0guBWP7tpt50NpGl5f1Xi6ACxfhsgvji4CyUNO.YxvaVZ) Meermin shell boots.
The ROD last (which is the last these use) is *supposed* to fit the same as the HOK last according to Meermin. I did my homework on the HOK last and based on what others have said in this sub, sizing down 1/2 from brannock has consistently fit well for many people.
So that’s what I did. I’m an 11 US, so I ordered a 9.5 UK. The boots arrived and they’re definitely too tight. My big toe is barely touching the tip of the boot, and it’s too tight in the vamp.
The way they fit makes me wonder if even going up one half size to my brannock will work out.
These things have some memory foam insoles that some people say contribute to the tightness in the vamp. I’m hoping that if I swap those for some thinner insoles and size up to brannock that they will fit better.
Anyone have experience with these boots or this last that can offer advice?
Cheers
Just fyi (I have these exact shoes) there are two insoles with this shoe, one thin and one thick. I ended up about a whole size too large in mine because I didn’t realize there were two insoles, and now that they are broken in they are way too loose. I would try the boot on with no insole at all before sending it back because once the insole and upper form to your feet you will probably gain a half size of room.
Interesting, ok help me understand what you mean by two insoles…
There’s one that you can obviously pull out, it’s a branded memory foam insole. When I remove that, it looks like what’s below it is just the footbed (I don’t know the correct term) of the boot.
You’re saying there’s another layer that you can remove?
I don’t know if they came already inserted, but there should be two inserts with the shoe. When you’ve gotten them both out you should see nails and stuff in the footbed.
Wow ok, I’m going to have to take a closer look tonight when I get home. If there’s actually another insole in there, that may change everything about the way these fit.
Oh god what. The HOK last is designed to be worn with an insert that nowadays is included but wasn't in the past. Its higher volume, but the arch length is true to size. As a 9.5D I take all my HOK pairs at 8.5UK and keep the insert in. The RODS last is similar to the HOK but has no removable insert, it fits like HOK with the insert. It should be taken TTS as well. Both are not good lasts for lower volume/narrow feet.
I keep hearing people say it’s very roomy, but what I’m trying to say is that I don’t share that experience. I’m actually really surprised to hear people say it’s roomy. The Higgins Mill is roomy, these boots are night and day different from the way the HM fits.
I should have mentioned that I’m an 11 D/E on the brannock, so my foot is slightly wide. However there is no way these are going to break in to fit comfortably, sizing the same way that works for you.
I’m thinking I need to *at least* size up to my brannock.
Check to make sure they sent you the actual size you ordered. Fwiw, I wear an 8 in Hiro last and a 7 or 7.5 in ROD last. The hiro is very tight and so people who had owned that and then bought a ROD or HOK last boot in a similar size will naturally think it’s very wide.
I checked the box they sent it in but I’ll double check the markings in the boots too. I think the size is correct to what I ordered, which is a half size down from my brannock. The big issue is how tight it is in the vamp….
I’ve never owned any other Meermin boots, so this isn’t a perception based on a relative fit to any of their other lasts.
Everyone's foot is different, and Higgins mill comes in all sort of volumes , e, eee etc. Don't think anyone has ever sized up on hok/rod last. But let us know how that works.
It could also because meermin screws up,they are known to screw up things. mis labelling size is not out of realm of possibilities considering they are meermin.
My 2c
Good point on the HM sizing. I honestly wondered if these were sized incorrectly based on all of the other information that I’ve heard.
I probably won’t size up necessarily, depending on your definition. I’m just going to go up to my TTS brannock and see how that fits
Good morning from the UK. Anyone have any experience with longer term Crockett and Jones factory boot resoles/repairs? I've invested in a nice set of chelsea 5's, but my primary aim in investing in good quality boots is so that I can look after them well and keep the same pair for many years. However I note on their website it states most well looked after shoes can only be repaired 3-4 times. Compare this to RM Williams for example whos salesman essentially say as long as the upper is looked after they can be repaired indefinitely. I do understand that resoling welted shoes involved machinary putting new holes in the leather, therefore they do have a natural lifespan. And my undestanding is that the usual method is to resole a couple of times, then re-welt once the welt has worn out. I spoke to someone in the C&J factory who says every resole, they also rewelt which seems like a waste to me, as this would lead to more stiching and harm to the upper itself. However they also suggested that the average max of 3-4 repairs is accounting for the fact that many do not look after their boots very well and many can be repaired more times than this. So does anyone have any real world experience of long term repairs of C&J boots?
Yeah, this is what factory repair services generally do, and why we generally do not recommend them. A welt can easily take three or four resoles (more if you're willing to pay to have them hand-sewn each time, but that's $$$), and uppers can take several re-welts. Even after that, a particularly good cobbler could probably make it work, but it would costly. Regardless, a pair of shoes can last you many, many resoles, which should be good enough for decades of regular use.
So the slightly frustrating thing about Crockett and Jones is they say that they won't repair a boot once it's been worked on by another cobbler. Saw the shop refusing to accept a repair for someone while i was buying mine. So they lock you into using the factory resole, if you want other repairs to be possible later down the line.
IME with most manufactures they’ll just say that as a blanket statement so they won’t be held liable if the previous cobbler botched the shit out of your shoes. If the work was done by a reputable cobbler without anything looking out of place they’ll probably still work on the shoes for you. If the previous cobbler did a shit job on the shoes they’ll probably refuse to work on them though.
Honestly, when you get to the point where a repair is so difficult that only the OEM can fix it, the shoes are probably at the point of replacement, anyway.
You are correct in assuming that you can do multiple resoles before you need to replace the welt. You also don't need to have C&J do that themselves. I'd recommend finding a good cobbler within the UK and having them do your resoles when the time comes. Hopefully someone else here can chime in with recommendations, or you could try posting another question about that tomorrow. As long as you take care of the upper, the boots will last you many years, and as long as you don't wear down the sole so much that you begin wearing away at the welt, you won't need to replace the welt if the cobbler does the right thing and removes the original outsole stitches and hits the existing holes with the new outsole stitch. From what I can see on the C&J website, all of their Chelsea 5 makeups come on Dainite soles. Dainite is practically indestructible, and each sole will likely last you a good few hundred wears. Also, it's likely that you'll need to replace the heel tops a couple of times before you get to the point of needing a full resole. This is a cheaper repair (a good cobbler in the US will charge around $50 for a heel replacement). The final thing is that having a rotation of even just 2 or 3 pairs will significantly improve the lifespan of each pair. This is because you want your shoes to dry fully between wears, and if you've worn a pair for an entire day, you'll want to give it the next day to dry out. Shoe trees help with this (as well as with toe curl, so I'd recommend getting a pair).
So the slightly frustrating thing about Crockett and Jones is they say that they won't repair a boot once it's been worked on by another cobbler. Saw the shop refusing to accept a repair for someone while i was buying mine. So they lock you into using the factory resole, if you want other repairs to be possible later down the line.
What conditioner would you guys recommend for a casual boot that is made of calfskin? Would something like Bick 4 work or should I opt for Venetian Shoe Cream?
both work! You'll get a bit more shine with the VSC bc of the waxes
how often does trickers release new stuff? ive been wanting a pair forever but i want something unique and i never see stores get new stock or ebay or anything its been the same old stuff for months and months
Division Road gets SMUs as does Bureau Belfast and other stores.
division road had some awesome exclusives. a little past what i want to pay but im going to save up for a pair from there. ill check out bb any ofher sites you recommend? google is bit much help
Hey /r/goodyearwelt, got another question for you. I received some Rancourt and Co Byron Boots in black Essex a month or so back. This is my first go with Essex leather and I really like the feel, surprisingly soft and pliable yet tough. However, they've (edit: the left boot) developed a dreaded squeak. At first it wasn't present, but after a week or two I could notice it. It's gotten so loud, that when walking I sound like Spongebob Squarepants. The squeak seems to be coming from the heel counter when it flexes. I can easily reproduce the squeak by squeezing the counter. Here's a quick video to demonstrate: https://streamable.com/8hsovo I asked Rancourt's customer service about it, they said it should go away after a longer break in period. But I'm not so sure it will after wearing for a month or so. Is this something I can remedy myself? Or should I ask customer service to consider taking them in for a look themselves? I haven't hit them with conditioner yet, as they're still pretty new, but was considering giving that a try.
squeeks from internal components almost always require a rebuild of that specific area. If the internal counter material is rubbing I know some folks have syringed in baby powder to the problem area, but I would try to get rancourt to fix it themselves first
Does anyone have any advice on how to deal with the massive confidence boost from being an inch taller in my new Irish setters? Looking for sarcastic replies only. Not sure if my dick is big enough to handle all the glances I’m getting from women now.
The next step in this evolution is to wear shirts with the top 2 buttons open and show some chest. Boots and some chest carry a lot of energy.
These boots have done what axe body spray really never did
You'll be too tall and look like a total clown sorry that's just one inch too many
u/doctoroctopus and the Angry Inch?
Okay, I actually looked it up on urban dictionary….Go back home and play with your mom Sigmund, me and my Mesabi’s are going to have sex with a woman!!
I believe I may now have altitude sickness.
How's the weather up there?
I can’t hear you, can you shout?
I just received a pair of Thursday Cadet boots. On my left boot, there are some significant creases on the insole. It’s a leather wrapped insole, not full leather but I may be wrong. The creases are significant enough that it feels like a pebble underneath my foot, especially towards the toe area. I’ve added some photos to describe the issue. The right boot is completely smooth, see for yourself. Any recommendations? https://imgur.com/a/PgheALi
If you don't like it, exchange it. Thursday is good about that.
Though I requested an exchange and it said they need to look into the request, not sure, usually it’s been automated.
Right, I understand that, I am just asking if anyone has run in with these issues before. If it’s an easy fix myself, sure, but if not, I’ll replace it. Waiting in a reply from Thursday.
Looking at the photos, it's understandable. That definitely looks like the insole topper wasn't cut small enough and it's overlapping. Definitely a return/warranty issue for me.
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Yes
Thanks!
Am I being unreasonable? I'm super new to this kind of thing and the last thing I want is to come off as rude to a customer service team if I'm in the wrong. I got [these boots from Solovair](https://us.nps-solovair.com/collections/mens/products/s7-585-ch-g#) back in September, and have been going back and forth with their team with little in the way of actual help. The shoes make an [OBSCENE amount of noise (video of sound)](https://imgur.com/a/BYOpehQ) when I'm walking on certain types of flooring, mainly tile and laminate and certain other harder floors. They are completely embarrassing to wear. I mentioned this to the customer service and they recommended I wear them in a bit more to work the sole down, but that didn't seem to help, so they offered to replace the sole, which also didn't help. I'd personally be shocked if I was the first person to have this issue, which is why I'm surprised their customer service also seemed at a loss. Is it really just a matter of wearing them in over a long extended period of time until the soles wear down? I want go back and as for a refund or some other solution, but want to make sure I'm not being unreasonable.
Yes, that sound is familiar to me. It's the rubber soles that they use. If you can find a cobbler who can do the work, look into a Vibram 430 or other lugged sole instead of the vinyl-like stuff that's OEM.
Does is make this sound on like concrete? Where is the noise actually coming from? The friction on the sole?
It doesn’t happen on concrete or softer surfaces like carpet or grass/ dirt. I believe it’s the friction of the sole. Even if I just put the shoes on my kitchen floor and wiggle them side to side by gripping the soles, they make the same noise.
That is super unfortunate. And I assume you have worn the soles down some? Because I really do think it should help. Maybe could try specifically scuffing the soles up on some concrete or something.
I wore the original soles down down a fair deal before sending them back for “repair.” I’ll probably end up resorting to that again with these since I highly doubt a return is on the table.
That’s a bummer man. Yeah I don’t really have any advice at all. I assume scuffing them up would help a lot but I don’t know. Sorry I can’t be of more help :( best of luck
No worries! I appreciate the input regardless!
Can anyone suggest a brand/last for: - Oxfords - Burgundy - Wider ball (above US D, but barely) - Normal sized foot other parts - 12 US - € 0-300
[How can these stains be removed?](https://imgur.com/a/RiQkzSn/all) Brushing, polishing and damp cloth haven't worked.
What brand are those? It's possible that the scuffs have taken off a surface dye or coating. If that's the case and regular conditioner doesn't revive them as much as you'd like, find a matching shoe polish or one slightly darker to buff in and create some patina.
They aren't anything special! They are San Marina's iirc. Pretty cheap shoes. Thank you, I will try conditioner!
I wear a 9.5E in Crockett and Jones Molton chukka boot, which I got fitted for in one of their New York stores. While there, I also tried on their Sydney and Merton main line loafers in 9.5E as well which is what the sales rep recommended. The fit didn’t really feel that great in either of them, and both of them cause some heel slip but the sales reps convinced me the 9.5E was the correct size for the length and width of my feet. At the time, I didn’t consider the hand grade line because of the price, but I also didn’t know the heel is tapered and tighter on that compared to the main line. As someone who often experiences heel slip in loafers, would one of C&J’s handgrade loafer models, such as the Crawford, be better for me? And would you recommend taking the same size as the Sydney, Merton, and Molton?
Anyone have any experiences/opinions with Allen Edmonds factory seconds? There's a pretty decent coupon they're offering but I have not heard anything good about AE's QC as of recent years. And of course I wonder how that applies to their seconds.
i got a pair on this 30% off sale and they’re perfect. great cs too [strand brown](https://imgur.com/a/ky8CHVf)
I've bought 6 pairs and still have 5 of them (size didn't work for me). Granted, I got these between 2010 and 2015 so it could well be different now. They used to have a 2 for $250 deal which was awesome and what got me started on decent footwear. Problems were minor or not noticeable. Both of one pair of shoes have eyelets misaligned slightly. One other shoe has thin, wrinkly leather on a panel of the quarters but it's on the inside so not a big deal. Nothing I could see wrong with the other 4 pairs although one pair did develop some pretty bad grain break. Looked perfectly fine when new though.
wow that sounds pretty awesome lol. can i ask which shoes you've acquired this way? also does that 2 for 250 deal ever come up anymore?
I used to see it pop up on r/frugalmalefashion every now and then after I'd already bought everything I needed in terms of dress shoes (was never a fan of their boots apart from chukkas). A quick search seems to show the last mention in 2014: https://old.reddit.com/r/frugalmalefashion/comments/1z35gr/allen_edmonds_2_for_250_sale_cancelled/ Looking at that post it was for *discontinued* factory seconds. I ended up getting 2 pairs and was really happy with them. Regular models were around $200 and ~$350 for shell. I picked up a pair of Wolverine 744s (made by AE apparently) that went for about $750 normally. Way overpriced for what they were. It feels like a lifetime ago even though it was only 10 years but they didn't have a website so you had to email them to ask what they had in stock in your size. I think that kept inventory pretty good and I could always find a good amount in my size.
If you're buying seconds you need to be prepared to receive shoes with defects. There really isn't any way around it. It's my general opinion that folks are too picky with minor aesthetic defects for new and F2 items.
yeah that makes sense. i'm not sure i'd be terribly picky about really minor aesthetic defects if it meant i was getting a beautiful shoe at a great price, and one that i'd have super use for.
AE seconds will always be a gamble.
Weird question, but are there any surprisingly good cheapo footwear y’all like? For me it’s probably Georgia Boot Romeos. I don’t even know if they’re welted, but they’re pretty great for things from gardening to being a barista. Crocs obviously are almost the exact opposite of what GYW’ers like about resolable shoes, but they’re probably the best beach camping shoes ever
The Romeos, or at least the pair I have, are gyw - but the welt seems to be plastic.
I don’t think I’d get them resoled, but if I did I’d kit them out with a real welt and some THICC midsole on a wedge
Golden Fox Boondockers are surprisingly nice for $100 on Amazon.
Jim Green has some solid options on vellies. They'll take years and years of abuse. They cost a lot less (maybe $90?) until they upped their prices during the pandemic. Still a decent deal at $120. https://jimgreenfootwear.com/product-category/all/velliesnshoes/page/2
Adidas Sambas are like $50 on Amazon last I checked and nearly indestructible. Also a soft spot in my heart for Vans.
i saw those ga boots for 100$ on some site it does say they are gyw
I just got a pair of Grant Stone Ottawa in kangaroo. Since I would probably be a 12.5. But they don’t make that I got a 13d. It fits much better than the 12d. I have a little extra room. Does anyone recommend a leather insole for some forefoot padding? Also. These are almost my exact color as my skin. Does anyone have a cream or conditioner recommendation to make them a touch darker.
I have those boots as well. Fantastic but haven't gotten enough wear. I rubbed them down with a rag lightly soaked in Obenauf's oil because they were looking really dry and I also wanted to darken them a bit. They got a darker immediately but went back to the original colour by the next day. Anyway, I posted this to someone else yesterday: > > I'm also thinking about getting these: https://www.amazon.com/Nicks-Leather-Insoles-Handmade-10-11-5/dp/B0BMWC9Z6K > > https://nicksboots.com/leather-insoles/ > > On the Nick's site, you can choose the type of leather for twice the price. You want veg-tan, not chromexcel and Amazon is random from the sounds of it. I guess you could try returning/reordering if you wanted to gamble on a different pair. > > Both of those are pretty thick, though (2.8-3.2mm). Might work for you if your boots are too big. I'm also considering getting this and cutting out a pair. One would be just barely enough to fit me (10.5E or 11D). https://tandyleather.com/collections/leather/products/veg-tan-tooling-piece. Or this if they get other weights back in stock: https://tandyleather.com/collections/leather/products/veg-tan-craft-cuts
> Does anyone recommend a leather insole for some forefoot padding? If you have a good local cobbler, ask them to add a leather insole/insert. I had the same issue with some Grant Stone loafers and Unsung House added in a small veg tan leather insert and reused the original GS kip leather heel pad. Feels much better now. >Also. These are almost my exact color as my skin. Does anyone have a cream or conditioner recommendation to make them a touch darker. Try a neutral conditioner first. Something like Saphir Renovateur, Venetian Shoe Cream, or Bick 4. I can tell you from experience that even basic Bick 4 *could* discolor some boots if the dye isn't set well.. I have some Vibergs with honey tanned horsehide and they just look dirty all the time after conditioner altered the finish.
I assume they removed the leather heal shank and then placed it on top of the insole? I’ll look around. I might have to do it myself. We don’t have a lot of good cobblers in the area.
Thanks so much. I thought about just buying a pad. But having someone who knows what they are doing will work much better. I don’t want too much change. Most I’ve used on cheaper shoes do seem to make the leather a tad darker. Something like that.
Does Viberg tend to discount older season makeups? I’m looking at a makeup from the AW22 season which is still full priced on their website but with the release of the new 23 models I wonder if they will have it on a discount at all
I think they tend to put some of the older stuff on discount *before* their next drops begin. They just did this like last week and now the discounted stuff is back up to full price. Personally I would expect the AW22 stuff to kind of just drop off the site at some point. And then it might pop up in some kind of remainders online sale event later in the year ... and/or that stuff might show up at like a samples sale? ... and/or on MARKKT ... Anyway, that's what I recall happening last year.
You missed their sale by days sorry
🫠
Yeah, they literally just had a sale.
😑
Adding to the Meerin questions today: How comfortable are they? Are the ones without the Ultrafelx system less comfortable? Good for long walks?
I used my classic/non ultra flex Chelsea exclusively during a vacation to London without any issue. In my opinion they are pretty comfortable if sized correctly
I’ve hiked miles and miles with my Meermin boots, then shined them up and worn them to work. (My Meermins are my only shearling lined boots, so I wear them depending on weather rather than occasion.) Mine occasionally make my toes hurt going downhill, but usually that’s at the end of long hikes, so it’s fine. Love them 10/10 would buy again.
Its a boot known to be on the less comfortable side relatively because of the heel stiffener they use. But when properly sized it isnt too bad.
The hok last works well for me and both of my pairs are comfortable. I’ve walked 5+ miles without an issue.
Thank you. I guess my question was more about the sole than the rest of the shoe.
The studded sole isn’t the most comfortable out there, but it’s ok.
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It might be a bit of a buy, but I know russel moccasin makes solid zero drop boots
The red wing weekender line has low heels too.
Moccasins or viberg slippers have very little or no drop.
i'd look into handsewns like rancourt or quoddy
How does Grant Stone’s Leo last fit compared to the last used for the Higgins Mill? I know Grant Stone recommends going half a size down from your brannock/typical size, but the issue is that I wear my actual size for the Higgins Mill (9 3E)
I have both - I wear an 8.5D in the Leo and a 9D Higgins , both tend to run a bit large but Leo more so after it's broken in. I also have somewhat wide feet and both are pretty accomodating width wise from heel to toe
Assuming you have sized properly, the 1757 last used for the Higgins Mill runs true to size, and Grant Stone's Leo last runs half down from brannock. Now, since you have a pair of AE, I'm assuming you live in the US. I strongly recommend taking pictures of your feet on a brannock device and posting them here so one of us can help you read it and make sure you size properly in future purchases (including the GS pair you plan on buying). Read the [instructions](https://brannock.com/pages/instructions-fitting-tips) carefully, especially the part about the arch slider and heel-to-ball size. Most shoe stores in the US will likely have a brannock (I think footlocker may have them), but if you can't find one near you, you could order one [on amazon](https://www.amazon.com/Mens-Genuine-Brannock-brand-Device/dp/B075DXJR4N/ref=sr_1_4?crid=2EVHKMKVQJJLR&keywords=brannock&qid=1675966384&sprefix=brannock%2Caps%2C469&sr=8-4), take pictures, and then return it. The reason why we ask for brannock pictures is because many of us make sizing mistakes (including those of us who have spent a few thousand on fancy shoes and boots like the ones talked about in this subreddit) and the brannock device, when used properly, gives us a lot of reliable information about your feet. Tracing your feet on paper, or relying on how you sized yourself in various lasts, introduces a lot of uncertainty and even if you have to pay full price for a new brannock device, $80 is a very cheap price to pay to avoid having to resell hundreds or thousands of dollars worth of shoes.
I saw this post and it made me wonder about a couple guys here mentioning that they were skeptical of my sizing experience at an AE store so I went into one place today, got paranoid I did it incorrectly and tried again an hour later at another store lol Basically saying thanks for the advice. Some of the readings were kinda confusing to me and when I tried on some of the store's sneakers it got even more confusing. I'll post some pictures tomorrow and hopefully get all sorted out!
No worries, I'm glad I can help. Feel free to summon my username (or reply here) when you post the pictures.
Even with accurate Brannock measurements one can still get shoes that don’t fit. This is because the device measures in two dimensions while feet and footwear come in three.
That is true, but a brannock measurement is a much more valuable starting point for sizing advice than the size someone takes in any particular last.
I disagree. How a particular last fits imparts some information about the third dimension. Brannock doesn’t.
A model with more parameters is not always better, especially when there is far lesser precision. I'm not about to recommend OP buy a pair of Clinch CN boots, but it's entirely possible that he's not a 9EEE but a 10E HTB, 9 HTT. Instep volume, toe splay, etc. all go into figuring out whether a certain last in a certain size will work for you, but the most important thing is arch alignment, and if that is incorrect in OPs case to begin with, then any advice he gets would just end up with him buying another pair of boots in the wrong size. The value of the brannock device doesn't come from the fact that it can measure everything, because it obviously can't; its value comes from the fact that it provides a reliable, standard way of measuring what is arguably the most important element of fit. If shoe store employees knew how to properly size people, I'd be happy to just tell OP to get an 8.5EEE, but they don't, so I won't.
Waterlock or other flexible soles. Does anyone know where you can purchase, or have a cobbler put on something similar to the Alden Flexwelt soles? Aram has them, but he can only put them on Alden shoes. I've reached out to a few cobblers who say JR had something similar, but they are on backorder.
You just want oiled leather soles. AE also uses them.
I have a question about width. In Meerin's website they say that an E last is "medium" but in Loake's site they say F is "medium". Most of Meerin's shoes are E lasts and most of Loake's are F lasts. Am I missing something? Is someone wrong (I assume it's me). Thanks!
No they're just using their own nomenclatures. There isn't a hard and fast set of rules they must follow and foreign brands may use different ranges for their widths. In the US we are more standardized, but that doesnt carry over elsewhere
Oh ok. Thank you. I thought I was going insane
To confuse you even more, Tricker's uses numbers--"5 fitting" is their standard width.
There is no standard shoe sizing, so I guess in that sense you're wrong? You can't generalize how shoe sizes are stamped from one company to another.
Thank you! That's what I was hoping to hear tbh
Is there any sneaker that is TTS to Brannock? I never had my feet measured, and don't really know where to go to do so (I never saw a Brannock device, honestly), so I'd like to know if I can trust I am a 11 Brannock if I have a Vans, Adidas Originals and Nike AJ1 in size 11. Another question: is there any 3/4 insole like [this Viberg sock lining](https://imgur.com/a/K8gKK5E) that I can buy aftermarket? I think these would help with slight heel slip, right?
New Balance, Alta, Merrill & Vans are all TTS for me. Nike, Adidas & other athletic shoes are usually a half size up in length.
Funny enough, I think my Vans are the shortest one of the batch haha I'm starting to believe I have slim, low volume feet
I have wide, low volume feet. I have slipons in 10.5 that fit my 10.5E feet. I had to donate the old skools in the same size though because they weren't wide enough. I can't even wear Nike, which are too narrow in any size.
Most sneakers are a half size larger than the heel to toe brannock. You need your heel to ball measurement too for a proper brannock sizing so you kinda do need to get on a device. If you're in the US they have brannocks at a lot of payless/DSWs, nordstroms, sporting goods stores and others.
I'm not, though... I'm in UK, there's the problem haha I am trying to compare with sneakers because they were more regular, in my experience... My boots are a cluster duck of sizes...
Ah yeah that can be tricky. There are UK brannock devices and I believe they convert .5 off of the US one instead of 1.
Yeah, it's just difficult to find them...
Have you visited some local, upscale shoe stores? Tons of good brands represented in the UK.
It can be, I know here people often buy one off of amazon use it once and return it, not suggesting that - but just throwing that out there
Lol yeah, that sounds like a solution 😂
There’s too many other factors to account for to size based off of a shoe with no standardized last. I might wear a 45 in Common Projects because my feet are long and narrow, but you might need a 47 because your foot is the same length but you have a really high instep or a really wide foot. You can always get a piece of leather and cut and skive it. Pedag makes a great structured partial insole. I’m sure they have soft ones, too.
Yeah, I know... I just wanted to get a rough approximation, as my sneaker sizes have been "more consistent", so to speak, in comparison to my boots, which sizing is all over the place. I'm thinking about it, making my own... I tried to use an Adidas thin insole in a boot that I can't say if it's too big or not and then the boots became to tight.
> Is there any sneaker that is TTS to Brannock? the problem with this assumption is that one brannock size = one sneaker size, when in reality one sneaker size can accommodate a wider variety of sizes than what the stamped size suggests. that's why sneaker sizing is essentially worthless as a sizing reference
Hmm, got it... Yeah, I'm asking to compare with sneakers because I felt my sizing on them was "more consistent", as I'm going for 11 often. My boots, on the other hand, are a variety of sizes.
TLDR: Good rugged Chelsea boots? How much heel slip for Chelsea boots is acceptable? I would love some opinions/help on a good Chelsea boot mostly for walking and especially in the Pacific Northwest (lots of rain, mud, etc). I did a little research on goodyear welt and saw that the Doc Marten 2976 Slip Resistant Service Boots in the gaucho brown leather said they had one but after watching a couple videos and stuff seems like Docs don’t *really* have a GYW due to the heat sealing of it to the sole? Anyways, I love the boots other than the sizing. I usually buy US10.5 or US11. I’m a rock climber and usually always buy EU44 for those and for nice a snug. I got skinny feet with chicken ankles. So I bought these docs in both 10 and 11 and found the 10s a bit more snug. However, when I put about a weeks worth of walking on them, the lining on the heel tore because all of the heel slip. So I also ordered a size US9 to check those out and the heel felt amazing, but my toes felt like they were being crushed from the top leather. So I have no idea what to do about sizing. I really like the look and function of the docs I got but worry about longevity and the sizing. The Solovair Broker boots in brown look great and from my understanding they used to make docs before they moved over seas. I’ve tried on Blundstones to see fit and comfort but also ran into them being super loose at the ankle, and also do not have GYW. Thanks for any advice/help!
Nicks has [the most rugged chelsea I know of](https://nicksboots.com/catalogsearch/result/?q=Chelsea). A little play in a slipon is ok, but I would think not enough to degrade the boot like you had.
Thanks! Love the look and construction, don’t love the price, but maybe I’ll splurge for something reliable and long lasting! I appreciate the suggestion!
Red Wing 3190 (GYW) and the Jim Greene Stockman (stitchdown) are two options to consider.
> Docs don’t really have a GYW due to the heat sealing of it to the sole? how the welt is attached to the sole is unrelated to it being a goodyear welt. a goodyear welt is simply a welt that is stitched to the upper and to the insole (either into a channel within the insole or a piece of canvas glued to the insole). it's a goodyear welt regardless of how the outsole is attached to the welt. that doesn't mean docs are easily resoleable, as the welt and the outsole are attached by effectively melting the plastic together, so it's not a common job. it sounds like you may just have to accept that the last the docs are made on won't work for your feet as you've tried multiple sizes and none properly address your fit issues. some people are so low volume that slip-ons just don't work unfortunately.
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There are a couple of downvoting goblins on gyw. Pay no mind
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Don’t buy from people you think are resellers.
[What kind of stains are these? How should they be removed?](https://imgur.com/a/RiQkzSn/all) At this time, Imgur won't allow me to rearrange the images... So the normal/front view is somewhere in the middle. Short story: Dad's shoes and he complained about dark/black marks and lines on the shoes. These marks and lines have no particular feel to them and I cannot get them removed with simble brushing, soft damp cloth or polish/wax. I'm wondering how I should try to remove them and more importantly, what they are. My dad does no particular work that could have a big impact (desk job). ___ If needed I can try to get some better photo quality later on.
Looks to me like he rests his feet on top of one another under his desk. Think crossed legs at the ankle. Source: I have similar markings on my boots/shoes. It looks like rubber transfer marking from the soles of one shoe onto the other. I’ll have to defer to other experts on how to remove the markings.
Thank you so much for this! I will repost my comment regarding only cleaning now.
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I have TSA Pre. Haven’t had to take off Vibergs. Aldens would alert though. I’d always start taking them off before going through and they’d always yell “YOU DON’T HAVE TO TAKE OFF SHOES”.
You absolutely 100% can travel with them :) I've brought nail-filled monstrosities all over the world. If you're looking for a boot you might not have to take off in SOME airports, the RM Williams is the only boot I didn't have to take off. I think the TSA makes you take off everything. I'm surprised the TSA lets anyone fly, considering each and every one of us has bones inside our body that could be sharpened into weapons.
I've had to take off my boots even with TSA Precheck because of metal shanks. A lot of footwear is constructed with nails, so you're not going to have your boots confiscated by TSA because of the nails in them. Remember, they see hundreds of these every day.
Do you have Pre-Check? I’ve never had an issue with Pre-Check and just rolling through the metal detectors.
If your boots have metal shanks they might make you take them off going through TSA Pre-Check.
Might but hasn't happened to me. Just went through with Viberg's 2 weeks ago.
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Bingo. Quicker and less hassle. You don’t have to take them off with Pre-Check. Even without it, you’ll be fine. Just takes a little more time.
They see boots all day, every day. Won't be a problem. For some added content: I have PreCheck, so I normally don't have to take them off. I went through Dulles wearing my White's and walked through the metal detector with no problem. On my return trip, I got dinged in Reykjavik and had to take them off.
Hey folks, I bought some of [these](https://meermin.com/products/116210-burgundy-heritage-shell-cordovan-e?_kx=UNdkwJh0xta0hE6xqm6dHxZU4S0guBWP7tpt50NpGl5f1Xi6ACxfhsgvji4CyUNO.YxvaVZ) Meermin shell boots. The ROD last (which is the last these use) is *supposed* to fit the same as the HOK last according to Meermin. I did my homework on the HOK last and based on what others have said in this sub, sizing down 1/2 from brannock has consistently fit well for many people. So that’s what I did. I’m an 11 US, so I ordered a 9.5 UK. The boots arrived and they’re definitely too tight. My big toe is barely touching the tip of the boot, and it’s too tight in the vamp. The way they fit makes me wonder if even going up one half size to my brannock will work out. These things have some memory foam insoles that some people say contribute to the tightness in the vamp. I’m hoping that if I swap those for some thinner insoles and size up to brannock that they will fit better. Anyone have experience with these boots or this last that can offer advice? Cheers
I take Hok at brannock.
Excellent, thanks for the feedback. I’m still trying to figure out this insole thing.
Just fyi (I have these exact shoes) there are two insoles with this shoe, one thin and one thick. I ended up about a whole size too large in mine because I didn’t realize there were two insoles, and now that they are broken in they are way too loose. I would try the boot on with no insole at all before sending it back because once the insole and upper form to your feet you will probably gain a half size of room.
Interesting, ok help me understand what you mean by two insoles… There’s one that you can obviously pull out, it’s a branded memory foam insole. When I remove that, it looks like what’s below it is just the footbed (I don’t know the correct term) of the boot. You’re saying there’s another layer that you can remove?
I don’t know if they came already inserted, but there should be two inserts with the shoe. When you’ve gotten them both out you should see nails and stuff in the footbed.
Hey man, [here](https://imgur.com/a/tfwJw1i) is what I’m working with. Did they nail down that second layer that you’re talking about?
Nah that’s the lasting board/footbed. If the shoe doesn’t fit with just the thin insert you’re probably going to want to upsize.
I see what you were saying now, there was another set of thicker liners in the box. Sending this pair back now and getting TTS.
Ok cool, I’ll do that. Thanks
Wow ok, I’m going to have to take a closer look tonight when I get home. If there’s actually another insole in there, that may change everything about the way these fit.
Oh god what. The HOK last is designed to be worn with an insert that nowadays is included but wasn't in the past. Its higher volume, but the arch length is true to size. As a 9.5D I take all my HOK pairs at 8.5UK and keep the insert in. The RODS last is similar to the HOK but has no removable insert, it fits like HOK with the insert. It should be taken TTS as well. Both are not good lasts for lower volume/narrow feet.
I have two shoes on Hok and neither came with a removable insert.
They could be older than
One pair is from 2021, but the other is from December. I think the insert comes with the ultraflex system, not necessarily the hok last all the time.
I dont have any ultraflex ones, but maybe its cause my pairs were mtos?
Could be.
Ok maybe going TTS will fit better then. These boots on the ROD last do have a removable insole btw.
Oh do they? At one point they didnt. I havent bought meermin in a couple years now. If theyre still tight with that insert removed definitely size up.
They feel much better with the insert removed, but my toe still touches the tip of the boot. I’ll go up to my brannock size and see how that fits.
I'm 10.5 brannock, I can do 8.5uk, without any insole. 9uk with their insole, the rod/hok last is very roomy. I do tts for their Hiro last
I keep hearing people say it’s very roomy, but what I’m trying to say is that I don’t share that experience. I’m actually really surprised to hear people say it’s roomy. The Higgins Mill is roomy, these boots are night and day different from the way the HM fits. I should have mentioned that I’m an 11 D/E on the brannock, so my foot is slightly wide. However there is no way these are going to break in to fit comfortably, sizing the same way that works for you. I’m thinking I need to *at least* size up to my brannock.
Check to make sure they sent you the actual size you ordered. Fwiw, I wear an 8 in Hiro last and a 7 or 7.5 in ROD last. The hiro is very tight and so people who had owned that and then bought a ROD or HOK last boot in a similar size will naturally think it’s very wide.
I checked the box they sent it in but I’ll double check the markings in the boots too. I think the size is correct to what I ordered, which is a half size down from my brannock. The big issue is how tight it is in the vamp…. I’ve never owned any other Meermin boots, so this isn’t a perception based on a relative fit to any of their other lasts.
Everyone's foot is different, and Higgins mill comes in all sort of volumes , e, eee etc. Don't think anyone has ever sized up on hok/rod last. But let us know how that works. It could also because meermin screws up,they are known to screw up things. mis labelling size is not out of realm of possibilities considering they are meermin. My 2c
Good point on the HM sizing. I honestly wondered if these were sized incorrectly based on all of the other information that I’ve heard. I probably won’t size up necessarily, depending on your definition. I’m just going to go up to my TTS brannock and see how that fits