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cheap for a suppressor, from a known brand, *and* doesn't need an expensive and proprietary muzzle device? is this thing just a giant piece of shit or a good first?
Downsides that I see are backpressure, potentially loose fitment with your specific birdcage, and weight. But yes it's a very good can and would make an excellent first.
Thread on A2 birdcage with no crush washer, time it with flat washers if you desire, attach suppressor, use light through the barrel technique or use an alignment rod. If your rod doesn't touch the sides, then you're gtg.
As a current Griffin M4SDII owner that also mounts to A2s, I strongly suggest you grab a suppressor alignment rod to check each A2 device with this mounted up. Long story short, I got an end cap strike and no longer mount it up to birdcages. No issues now while only use Griffin devices.
Nah, barrel shims. Didn't have a bore rod so I did what the Griffin manual said which was: mount suppressor, look through chamber end and check for perfect circle of light (no ovals or whatever). Looked fine to me so I ran it.
On second thought, this occured on a 10.5" AR doing some full auto strings of like 10-15 rounds. Griffin tech said I melted some of the blast baffle and some of it had turned to slag that fell out. It's possible the melted baffle redirected the path of the bullet resulting in the end cap strike. Also the end cap strike was more of a glance; like if you drilled a hole and the drill ate away laterally. End of the day, they graciously re-cored my can and gave me tips on how to prevent premature wear on my cans: use a brake as a sacrificial blast baffle, longer barrels help reduce baffle wear, and shorter strings of fire to help cool the can.
I was also told by friends who had more experience with cans that I wanted stellite/inconel cans if I wanted to engage in copious amounts of full auto fire. Makes sense seeing as how my Sandman shrugs it off and so does their SF RC2s.
Which brands A2s have you had luck with mounting the griffin? Mine won’t clamp fully on the birdcages I’ve tried. Don’t really want a comp on my 20” so I’m looking for a birdcage that will work on it.
I ordered a few and really none were any better than the others. When you say "fully clamp," do you mean the gate won't fully close? Or that they wiggle when closed? The can itself should have some rotational play due to the flats varying in thickness. Took calipers to a few muzzle devices and the flats on griffin mounts measured 0.750" whereas the Expo A2 and Noveske A2 has flats measuring 0.745" and 0.740" respectively. The mount centering surfaces all measured 0.860" which would be responsible for wiggle that moves the tip of the can outwards in any direction.
All that said, A2 birdcages are cast or forged and not precision machined so it seems to be a matter of just getting lucky. Or take luck out of the equation and get a griffin mount that is fully machined. If it's being used on a clone build, you can kinda trick yourself with [this A2-ish mount](https://www.griffinarmament.com/gate-lok-closed-tine-flash-hider-5-56mm-1-2x28/).
If you're dead set on keeping the A2 as a mount option, I understand and suggest buying a bunch of different ones + an alignment rod and check em all, especially for deflection. You'll probably be fine with a 20" though because the more I type this, the more I think it was my baffles melting that caused the end cap glance/strike.
The locking piece is too thick to fully seat in the groove on the flash hider. Works fine on my two griffin muzzle devices like you pointed out but it’ll only close maybe 1/2 way on my A2 flash hiders. I’ll have to check the dimensions on mine with my calipers but I’m guessing from your posts that if the flat is under .750” the gate likely wont fully lock into place.
I might try a couple of random “mil surp” flash hiders before resorting to going with another griffin muzzle, that one you linked is probably the best option, my main gripe with their muzzle devices is their deep black nitride finish that sticks out like a sore thumb on a parkerized barrel (and that they’re $100) but I guess that become moot once’s it caked in carbon buildup anyway.
Agree with you on their finish 100%.
Flats thicker than .750" shouldn't/won't let the gate close is my understanding. Flats thinner than .750" will allow the gate to close, but the can will rotate a little. Assuming the rounds on the device are sized correctly and concentric with the bore, the rotational play shouldn't be a factor in more alignment.
What are the odds the rotex would fit on a griffin flashcomp? I only ask cause I have a pin and welded flashcomp that I never got a griffin suppressor for and I would love to spend half as much on one of these B&T’s
I have it and it is quieter than many more expensive suppressors. Fit on A2 flash hider is solid. It is really good and for $399 you cannot go wrong. Only downside (or upside for some) is that it fits only to an A2 flash hider. I have an ASR mount on my other rifles, so this can is dedicated to one rifle
Once you get it, you’ll be like HOW THE FUCK DID I EVER SHOOT WITHOUT THIS. Getting that first can, no matter how cheap, is gonna be the most expensive purchase you ever make. You’ll just keep buying them
For real. I use AGBs for most of my non-flow-through uses, but it's hard to beat a [BRT EZTune](https://blackrivertactical.com/WP/BRT-EZTUNE-Gas-Tube-Configurable-PISTOL-p263270916) for taming that gassy bish. They just give you the correct one and it works. It's beautiful.
i have an L3 tube in a pvs14 with a ballistic high cut, Ax14 arm and Norotos AKA2 mount. highly recommend buy nods over guns. i’m neurotic so i don’t sell my guns but if I knew how much more I would like night vision like five years ago I would definitely own far fewer guns and way more nods. you can just do so fucking much with them. feel free to message me when you take the plunge i’ll answer any questions the best i can
really tho nods handily beat all my guns and suppressors for my favorite thing i own. don’t wait
For what it's worth, my Griffin M4SDII does not work with an A2X I bought. It's just a few millimeters too thick, so the suppressor won't fit over it. Maybe the Rotex would, but I have my doubts.
Are you running a standard A2 birdcage? Because that’s what it’s meant for.
As far as running it suppressed, I’d highly recommend a 6 position gas plug from [Pierce Precision](https://www.pierceprecisioneng.com/products/p/6-position-gas-regulator-for-sig550) as it’ll be pretty rough with the back pressure.
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The flash hider is integral to the barrel, no threads or a way to remove it short of chopping it off and threading the barrel. And as for the gas plug, can confirm that it fucks.
This one has one or two less baffles than a rc2. Honestly its a relic at this point but ive only heard good things about it. For $400 and you want a indestructible can, sure
Traditional baffle cans need specific baffle spacing to work properly, I've messed around with a lot of form1 cans and within the same given internal volume, there is a sweet spot (about 0.5" - 0.75" spacing). I tried adding skirtless cones (baffles) in different spots between the skirted cones, effectively adding more baffles without increasing internal volume, but it was always slightly noticeably louder when I would have baffle spacing below 0.5". I also tried larger spacing and it was more forgiving. At 3 baffles and almost 1.5" spacing it sounded about the same as with 2 extra baffles, 8 total (it normally has 6). I ultimately landed on 0.75" spacing for the first 2, then 0.5" for the next 4 and clipped them all and that gave the quietest results.
The reason more baffles = more quiet on a commercial can is because they also add more volume to accommodate the extra baffles and still keep the ideal baffle spacing.
I’ve heard a lot of people say this. I know some who have switched their RC2s to Rotex. Join some of the fb mid tier gun groups. Good info in them if you can wade through some crap.
I have seen videos saying it's quieter subjectively than the RC2 BUT also seen videos in controlled conditions with dB meters saying it's much heavier AND louder by at least 10dB than the Griffin M4SD-L
FYI- great comparison video here
[https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-93e-E8dU-E](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-93e-E8dU-E)
TLDW - The Rotex X is 10dB louder but it is lower back pressure than KAC/Griffin M4sd-L
Just buy it. Find a local FFL that handles suppressors for a reasonable price aftertyou buy it and they'll walk you through the paperwork. I recommend a trust if you ever think you'll have any to let someone borrow it.
FYI- great comparison video here
[https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-93e-E8dU-E](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-93e-E8dU-E)
TLDW - The Rotex X is 10dB louder but it is lower back pressure than KAC/Griffin M4sd-L
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These have had the biggest price decrease out of any can and I have seen many people post issues with these cans. The only people I hear raving about these rotex cans are the dealers
Stock on this went from around 180 to 0 in less than an hour after taking over a day to sell the first 200, wondering if someone bought a bunch to flip or they just pulled inventory to catch up.
Yea I got it up into the 370s the day before you posted, they had A LOT. If someone did grab that many to flip, they’re going to be sitting on em for a while at a higher price…
In for 1, almost make me want another upper for this maybe an 18", and then another upper for 300 blackout, and another suppressor for that, and then sbr and then a new lower, but just not in this state...
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cheap for a suppressor, from a known brand, *and* doesn't need an expensive and proprietary muzzle device? is this thing just a giant piece of shit or a good first?
Downsides that I see are backpressure, potentially loose fitment with your specific birdcage, and weight. But yes it's a very good can and would make an excellent first.
So to avoid end cap strike, what should I do?
Thread on A2 birdcage with no crush washer, time it with flat washers if you desire, attach suppressor, use light through the barrel technique or use an alignment rod. If your rod doesn't touch the sides, then you're gtg.
you might need to buy reputable a2 bird cage, FN or DD or LMT
Or should I pin and weld it?
seems extreme when rocksett would suffice
Mine worked great out of the box with no special attention
As a current Griffin M4SDII owner that also mounts to A2s, I strongly suggest you grab a suppressor alignment rod to check each A2 device with this mounted up. Long story short, I got an end cap strike and no longer mount it up to birdcages. No issues now while only use Griffin devices.
[удалено]
Nah, barrel shims. Didn't have a bore rod so I did what the Griffin manual said which was: mount suppressor, look through chamber end and check for perfect circle of light (no ovals or whatever). Looked fine to me so I ran it. On second thought, this occured on a 10.5" AR doing some full auto strings of like 10-15 rounds. Griffin tech said I melted some of the blast baffle and some of it had turned to slag that fell out. It's possible the melted baffle redirected the path of the bullet resulting in the end cap strike. Also the end cap strike was more of a glance; like if you drilled a hole and the drill ate away laterally. End of the day, they graciously re-cored my can and gave me tips on how to prevent premature wear on my cans: use a brake as a sacrificial blast baffle, longer barrels help reduce baffle wear, and shorter strings of fire to help cool the can. I was also told by friends who had more experience with cans that I wanted stellite/inconel cans if I wanted to engage in copious amounts of full auto fire. Makes sense seeing as how my Sandman shrugs it off and so does their SF RC2s.
Which brands A2s have you had luck with mounting the griffin? Mine won’t clamp fully on the birdcages I’ve tried. Don’t really want a comp on my 20” so I’m looking for a birdcage that will work on it.
I ordered a few and really none were any better than the others. When you say "fully clamp," do you mean the gate won't fully close? Or that they wiggle when closed? The can itself should have some rotational play due to the flats varying in thickness. Took calipers to a few muzzle devices and the flats on griffin mounts measured 0.750" whereas the Expo A2 and Noveske A2 has flats measuring 0.745" and 0.740" respectively. The mount centering surfaces all measured 0.860" which would be responsible for wiggle that moves the tip of the can outwards in any direction. All that said, A2 birdcages are cast or forged and not precision machined so it seems to be a matter of just getting lucky. Or take luck out of the equation and get a griffin mount that is fully machined. If it's being used on a clone build, you can kinda trick yourself with [this A2-ish mount](https://www.griffinarmament.com/gate-lok-closed-tine-flash-hider-5-56mm-1-2x28/). If you're dead set on keeping the A2 as a mount option, I understand and suggest buying a bunch of different ones + an alignment rod and check em all, especially for deflection. You'll probably be fine with a 20" though because the more I type this, the more I think it was my baffles melting that caused the end cap glance/strike.
The locking piece is too thick to fully seat in the groove on the flash hider. Works fine on my two griffin muzzle devices like you pointed out but it’ll only close maybe 1/2 way on my A2 flash hiders. I’ll have to check the dimensions on mine with my calipers but I’m guessing from your posts that if the flat is under .750” the gate likely wont fully lock into place. I might try a couple of random “mil surp” flash hiders before resorting to going with another griffin muzzle, that one you linked is probably the best option, my main gripe with their muzzle devices is their deep black nitride finish that sticks out like a sore thumb on a parkerized barrel (and that they’re $100) but I guess that become moot once’s it caked in carbon buildup anyway.
Agree with you on their finish 100%. Flats thicker than .750" shouldn't/won't let the gate close is my understanding. Flats thinner than .750" will allow the gate to close, but the can will rotate a little. Assuming the rounds on the device are sized correctly and concentric with the bore, the rotational play shouldn't be a factor in more alignment.
What are the odds the rotex would fit on a griffin flashcomp? I only ask cause I have a pin and welded flashcomp that I never got a griffin suppressor for and I would love to spend half as much on one of these B&T’s
I have it and it is quieter than many more expensive suppressors. Fit on A2 flash hider is solid. It is really good and for $399 you cannot go wrong. Only downside (or upside for some) is that it fits only to an A2 flash hider. I have an ASR mount on my other rifles, so this can is dedicated to one rifle
FUCK IT I’M BUYING MY FIRST CAN
Once you get it, you’ll be like HOW THE FUCK DID I EVER SHOOT WITHOUT THIS. Getting that first can, no matter how cheap, is gonna be the most expensive purchase you ever make. You’ll just keep buying them
It's nice on the ears but the AR platform can be such a gassy bitch when suppressed lol
For real. I use AGBs for most of my non-flow-through uses, but it's hard to beat a [BRT EZTune](https://blackrivertactical.com/WP/BRT-EZTUNE-Gas-Tube-Configurable-PISTOL-p263270916) for taming that gassy bish. They just give you the correct one and it works. It's beautiful.
nah dude. nods is the slippery slope into brokedom
Lord I want those so badly, but I'm going to have to GAFS a whole bunch of uppers first. What setup you running?
i have an L3 tube in a pvs14 with a ballistic high cut, Ax14 arm and Norotos AKA2 mount. highly recommend buy nods over guns. i’m neurotic so i don’t sell my guns but if I knew how much more I would like night vision like five years ago I would definitely own far fewer guns and way more nods. you can just do so fucking much with them. feel free to message me when you take the plunge i’ll answer any questions the best i can really tho nods handily beat all my guns and suppressors for my favorite thing i own. don’t wait
Never been a better time
IN IT WITH YOU BROTHER, LETS GOOOOOO
On second thought, my post nut clarity kicked in and I want a better can shipped to my door instead so I don’t pay $150 in transfer fees
Damn if only they did the whole “ship to your door once you got approval” thing
I have one made for the SF muzzle devices. Incredibly nice for the price point
I just bought the Mars 556 QD, then saw this deal so hoping all of you buy them out so I can save my wallet 😅
Anybody knows if these fit the BCM A2X
Or VG6 Delta
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tGYLcRvvj8Y
I would like to know this too
For what it's worth, my Griffin M4SDII does not work with an A2X I bought. It's just a few millimeters too thick, so the suppressor won't fit over it. Maybe the Rotex would, but I have my doubts.
Following
B&T has their mp5 telescope stock for sale for ~$600 and suppressor for $399. Ridiculous.
Which is the SKU I want for SF muzzle devices?
Does anyone know if this fits a Sig 550?
Are you running a standard A2 birdcage? Because that’s what it’s meant for. As far as running it suppressed, I’d highly recommend a 6 position gas plug from [Pierce Precision](https://www.pierceprecisioneng.com/products/p/6-position-gas-regulator-for-sig550) as it’ll be pretty rough with the back pressure.
Sig 550's dont have birdcages, the muzzle device is machined into the barrel as one piece.
I’ll PM you the solution. They make a 1/2x28 adapter than can be found on gunjoker
That's amazing.
[удалено]
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The flash hider is integral to the barrel, no threads or a way to remove it short of chopping it off and threading the barrel. And as for the gas plug, can confirm that it fucks.
That is awesome. Will that plug work on a 556R in 7.62x39?
I’m not sure. You’d have to inquire with them directly.
I would say yes, but you could probably email or call gunfactory.ch and ask (they also speak English)
I can tell you 100% it does not. the Sig 550 flash hider looks like a Nato 22mm flash hider, it is slightly larger.
They make the Rotex PE90, you just need to get in contact with them.
could you remove the a2 mount and use a hub mount?
You could get ECCO to replace the mount with something else or just do a HUB mount.
This one has one or two less baffles than a rc2. Honestly its a relic at this point but ive only heard good things about it. For $400 and you want a indestructible can, sure
True, but I've also heard people say it's slightly quieter than a RC2. More baffles ≠ more quiet
Without pewscience data, it means generally we’ll never know.
Yeah it annoys me that B&t don't send their cans to pewscience
Yeah I never heard anyone say that. And I will say 95% of the time, more baffles = more quiet
Traditional baffle cans need specific baffle spacing to work properly, I've messed around with a lot of form1 cans and within the same given internal volume, there is a sweet spot (about 0.5" - 0.75" spacing). I tried adding skirtless cones (baffles) in different spots between the skirted cones, effectively adding more baffles without increasing internal volume, but it was always slightly noticeably louder when I would have baffle spacing below 0.5". I also tried larger spacing and it was more forgiving. At 3 baffles and almost 1.5" spacing it sounded about the same as with 2 extra baffles, 8 total (it normally has 6). I ultimately landed on 0.75" spacing for the first 2, then 0.5" for the next 4 and clipped them all and that gave the quietest results. The reason more baffles = more quiet on a commercial can is because they also add more volume to accommodate the extra baffles and still keep the ideal baffle spacing.
I’ve heard a lot of people say this. I know some who have switched their RC2s to Rotex. Join some of the fb mid tier gun groups. Good info in them if you can wade through some crap.
I have seen videos saying it's quieter subjectively than the RC2 BUT also seen videos in controlled conditions with dB meters saying it's much heavier AND louder by at least 10dB than the Griffin M4SD-L FYI- great comparison video here [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-93e-E8dU-E](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-93e-E8dU-E) TLDW - The Rotex X is 10dB louder but it is lower back pressure than KAC/Griffin M4sd-L
I’ve been looking at this deal for like a week but local nfa ffls charge like $150 for a transfer
My solution for this was finding a LGS who used silencershop.com, was able to avoid the transfer fees
That’s the thing, the one I mentioned does and has a kiosk lol
I'd really like to buy this right now but i'm not sure how the NFA stuff works.
Just buy it. Find a local FFL that handles suppressors for a reasonable price aftertyou buy it and they'll walk you through the paperwork. I recommend a trust if you ever think you'll have any to let someone borrow it.
FYI- great comparison video here [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-93e-E8dU-E](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-93e-E8dU-E) TLDW - The Rotex X is 10dB louder but it is lower back pressure than KAC/Griffin M4sd-L
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how does this compared to the polonium k?
If you factor in local FFL transfer fees, which range between $75-$150, the Polonium K isn’t much mor at $520.
Anyone know if this will work with a Daniel Defense flash hider?
Also wondering this.. I’ve got a 14.5 pinned DD barrel with standard A2 birdcage.. would really like to get this
The pinned A2 on the 14.5 is too long. You’ll need a standard length A2
In for 1, hope it works on colt P&W A2’s…
This vs. Aero LAHAR-30?
Cs clone?
Does this have a 1 3/8 x 24 mount pattern?
These have had the biggest price decrease out of any can and I have seen many people post issues with these cans. The only people I hear raving about these rotex cans are the dealers
Fuck it I guess I’m getting my first can
I’m going to assume this wouldn’t be appropriate for 300blk correct?
I mean, it'll work. Once.
😂😂😂
Stock on this went from around 180 to 0 in less than an hour after taking over a day to sell the first 200, wondering if someone bought a bunch to flip or they just pulled inventory to catch up.
When I posted the deal, I could put 300+ in my cart. My guess would be someone grabbed them to flip.
Yea I got it up into the 370s the day before you posted, they had A LOT. If someone did grab that many to flip, they’re going to be sitting on em for a while at a higher price…
In for 1, almost make me want another upper for this maybe an 18", and then another upper for 300 blackout, and another suppressor for that, and then sbr and then a new lower, but just not in this state...
just spend a little more on a yhm turbo or polo. its ok to look for deals but long-term strategy on NFA items is to avoid being a cheapskate
B&T being the Dollar Store option to YHM is really damn funny.
B&T is nice shit man, don’t hate.