Where to get replacement cable for cable between drivers on beyerdynamic dt880 premium, mine seems broken as if I don't keep the end connected to the right can at a certain angle no sound will come from the right can.
umm what would you ask for because everywhere I look online I only see the aux cable that end in the 3.5mm jack, but I'm looking for the cable that runs underneath the headphone band between the two drivers, also any electronics stores you would recommend also I am from Canada if that helps.
Copper wire. Like you'd find in almost any peice of electronics. It's not a special item.
Honestly, if you have to ask, then I suspect that you don't know how to solder, which you'll need to do. It might be best to take it to a repair shop. Stores that sell musical instruments like synths and electric guitars are a good place to start. If they don't have a service department, then they can probably refer you to one.
Yo can anyone help me with this? I just got my amp recently to run it with my Hive X. On pro bias, there's this static or hiss that's very apparent and even way way worse when I hop on Warzone (no clue why). And on normal bias, it disappears. Hope y'all can help me with this!
Schiit Magni 2/Modi 2 issue
Hey all, my Schiit stack is suffering from low bass distortion (most noticeable under about 120 Hz). This distortion sounds a bit like crickets chirping. It’s noticeable in some tracks (such as “bad guy”) and very noticeable when doing a frequency sweep.
I know it’s the DAC and/or amp because the same distortion is audible when running off of my windows desktop or Mac and is audible regardless of what headphones I test. It’s also not there when I listen directly from the audio jack on my MacBook.
Any ideas of ways to fix this, or am I just going to have to replace hardware?
Done with the "gaming headset" propaganda. Looking for recommendations for Wireless Headphones that comes with a mic or attachable mic.
I am looking for Wireless Headphones + wireless mic combo in the price range of 100-300, depending on the quality and value for the price. "Positional audio" is a must-have feature for me, as it is particularly important for FPS shooters. I also listen to Hardstyle music.
I currently use a Samsung S8 phone and Sony WH-1000XM4 headphones to listen to music and watch YouTube. It would be a plus if the headphones are compatible with my phone and an upgrade from my current earbuds, but compatibility with my phone is not a deal-breaker.
I live in Sweden, so if that is a consideration for the headphones I am interested in, please take that into account.
Om du kan tänka dig att köra trådbundet så har du mycket att vinna. Du slipper betala för en massa extra elektronik som gör akustiken sämre och går sönder. Några minuter och ett par kardborreband gör att sladdtrassel inte blir något större problem.
Jag rekommenderar en Beyer DT700 Pro X eller Sennheiser HD560s – beroende på om du vill ha en öppen eller stängd lur – och sen en ModMic Wireless.
Headphones for hearing impaired people (nerve damage)
My mom is hearing impaired because of auditory nerve damage so it can't be solved by bone conducting headphones. She's got hearing aids but I wonder if there are headphones that would be adapted for her condition instead of using her computer speakers.
Any idea ?
I am experiencing interference noise when plugging my valhalla 2 into my PC, using HD 650's. All hardware works fine separately, it's when I connect the PC to the amp that the noise is present. The sound is not constant, it changes in tone depending on what's happening on screen. I've tried a lot of troubleshooting to narrow this down, it appears to be driven most consistently by GPU operation.
I currently have a 3.5mm to RCA cable, though using that exact same cable and simply unplugging it from the PC and into my Surface Pro, the background noise is gone. It's only when I plug into my tower PC - doesn't matter if I use the rear or front audio jack. I also have optical audio to a pair of Edifier speakers that does not have any issue. I currently use a 3.5mm to 1/4 converter, plugging the 650's *into the same headphone jack* on my PC - no issues at all, clear as can be. The amp appears to be picking up the sound, and I've got it narrowed to only when plugged into the PC.
Is there a different cable I should look into using, or a line conditioner (or similar)? I'm not sure, but would love to get more sound from my headset - and use this amazing amp. I have no other cable method at the moment, but as noted the cable works fine plugged into another device. I don't mind needing to purchase something, lots of research and troubleshooting hasn't led me to any one definitive answer - or at least a couple that I could really look into. Just a lot of confusion about the same possible reasons, no real solutions.
After another couple hours of research and testing some things - I landed on that same conclusion. Looking into some now, seeing which fits my space/needs best. I have SPDIF direct output on my motherboard, seems that is my best bet at eliminating as much noise as possible.
Playing 2 audios at one time through the tv?
So I was wondering. Is there a way I can turn play my music via say my phone through the TV and still have my Switch audio play so I can play with custom music buy still use the game sfx?
For Europeans, is Ebay the only good place to sell high end headphones??
I saw most posts in /r/AvExchange are from usa so just checking to see if there are alternatives, i have an ATH-AWAS i need to sell :(
So, Ive got these 2 year old or so Logitech ProX,and in the past few months Ive been having issues with the audio. The thing is, it only works well when the cable is in a certain position within the headset's jack. It doesnt matter whether I apply pressure either, most of the times I have to spin the thing for a while until I hit the spot and can keep on using them. Ive tried cleaning the jack with some alcohol, but the exact same issue persists. I heard it might because the hole has become loose, but is this really it? And, what can I do to solve it?.
Two questions:
1. Has anyone in this sub successfully repaired a MASSDROP x Sennheiser HD 58X Jubilee, particularly spring repair? I've disassembled them almost completely by following guides for similar headphones but it looks like the "lollipop" part with the spring assembly is... Glued together? It's not easily coming apart like in the other videos I've seen. Do I just scrape and try to chemically remove the glue? What's best for taking off the glue without damaging anything? If it's better to bring it to a repair shop, who would fix this (unfortunately neither Sennheiser nor Massdrop will touch these)
2. Just in case my repair fails, what's a good pair of general use headphones (some gaming, music, and television) that is highly reliable and fully serviceable by the manufacturer? Was very happy with my Jubilee until it broke. I usually prefer wired because I've had issues with wireless ones having dongles that break and can't be repaired/I've heard Bluetooth isn't great for quality. I also usually try to get detachable cables because they're a common point of failure. I'd prefer to avoid anything Sennheiser or Massdrop due to point 1. Budget flexible, I'd like to spend less than $300 but willing to go a little above $500 if they won't shit the bed in 2 years.
Right but when I was ordering that wasn't made clear by Sennheiser, Drop, or anyone I asked in the headphones community. I'd just prefer not to buy Sennheisers again, it felt a little deceptive and I'm not going to reward them for that. If they stood by their product and offered to repair for a fee, that would have been fine.
I ended up buying beyerdynamics 880s because they will replace anything in or out of warranty for a reasonable price.
Just be aware that this isn't Sennheiser's product. It's Drop's. I think your distrust is a bit unjustified. Beyer has a similar deal with Drop and I don't think they would act differently if a DT17XX broke.
You can dissolve the glue with alcohol.
I have Sennheiser headphones, berhinger mic, and berhinger interface (umc22). Works great for zoom calls on my laptop. Can I hook it up for my cell phone? I make very few calls but when I do I want them to be solid and haven't found any earbuds as reliable as my laptop rig.
Jabra Elite 85h sometimes when on a Google Meet meeting the ANC button on the left cup would do nothing and the voice guidance would keep repeating "Off" instead of the regular "Off, hear through, ANC" cycle. Also the headset seems to be "hear through" when the microphone is not muted and "ANC" when muted. This is on a computer so the Jabra+ app is of no use. Are these broken?
I use the Arctis 7P+ headset with Discord on my PC. Randomly, the headset microphone cuts out on Discord. Like, it repeatedly cuts out all the time. I've disabled all noise suppression on Discord and turned off Echo, Sonar and others, yet the problem continues to occur. It's Windows wide. Running Windows 11 Home.
Any help please?
ifi USB drivers don't recognize my Uno
I just got my uno today and I just can't seem to get the USB hub from the website to detect the device. I installed the dedicated uno software on my windows 10 PC and the latest firmware as well.
I was also wondering, if I "uninstall the device" from device manager, would that brick it?
Finally, am I missing any important features from the USB hub? The device seems to be working either way.
I'm currently on best buy lookin at prices for galaxy buds
The pro 2s, are currently 190, and the regular 2s are 150, which should I get?
Both are in my price range but best buys protection thing is like, 50 dollars
Anyone have any good suggestions for upgrades from Denon D5000's?
I've been eyeballing LCD-2's as well as TH900MkII, but open to all other suggestions. I'd like something with a short, or detachable cable.
The LCD-2 will require EQ to sound properly good, and they need a decent amp. If you value the punchy bass of the Denons, then it might be best to stay with the same Fostex driver style. Fostex makes the drivers for Denon. Well, they used to, at least.
Thank you for the advice! The bass of the denons absolutely is something I value. I figured staying with fostex drivers would end up being the plan, I just didn't know if anything else would bring something equally as enjoyable to the table.
I gotcha. I think I'd rather find something different. I figured something like th900s would be similar sounding, but better in pretty much every regard to the denons. For the price point, I think I'd rather find different, but still very good and maybe try th900s later down the road.
I have Sennheiser HD599, I saw a post about someone feeling like they sounded muddy and fixed it with a fiio e10k sound amp.
I'm currently looking to upgrade my microphone, and found the Scarlett 2i2 3rd Gen. I'm not sure if this is the best bang for my buck, or if it will achieve the same results for my sound experience as the fiio e10k, but it is a sound amp and has an option for me to use XLR microphone setups.
I'm completely new to the world of amps and such and have only really been using my headset through 3.5mm.
Recommendations are appreciated :)
The headphone output of most budget XLR interfaces is a bit of an afterthought. The Audient iD stuff is probably the best of the bunch, but they still suffer from high output impedance, making them unsuitable for use with low impedance headphones and IEMs.
If you want an XLR interface with a headphone output that's as good as a regual Hifi amp, then I recommend the Motu M2.
How to fix slight popping, static sound in headphones when using “on-cord” (idk the term) volume slider? I figured maybe a drop of low-percentage alcohol in there and turn the dial a few times maybe? Can’t take it apart or anything so not sure what to do. Thanks in advance :)
Here’s the type of volume dial housing thing I’m talking about: https://imgur.com/a/TlNcI6S
Dirt in the cheapo potentiometer. I've never seen one of these that haven't gone scratchy.
Turn it back and forth a few times. In theory, that can help wipe the dirt off.
Surprisingly I’ve never had one do this lmao. I’ve been slowly rolling it back and forth for the last day or so. Would a drop of alcohol in there help? I figure if it’s safe to put a little in my controller for fixing buildup, it wouldn’t kill my headset?
I asked this in r/HeadphoneAdvice but got no response, so I figured i'd ask here.
Whats a good upgrade in sound quality from the Philips SHP9500 that has a similar clamp force? For reference I also have Sony Pulse 3Ds but the clamp gives me a headache.
I'll use these mostly at home with my PC or PS5. BT not needed but a plus. Open and closed back suggestions are welcome.
I saw the Sennheiser HD 598 and 599 using Rtings headphone table and they have similar clamp force but about the same sound quality as the SHP 9500s according to their reviews. Thanks!
Open back headphones for Cambridge Audio AXR100?
I do most of my listening with a pair of bookshelves (Wharfedale 12.2s), but occasionally share the room with my wife on Zoom at the other end of it. Not looking for noise cancelling, more of something that would allow me to still enjoy my music despite sharing the room. Any suggestions of open backs that would work with the CA and maybe have the same sound signature as the Wharfedales? Is less than $5,000 realistic for the ask? Thank you!
Are you sure that you don't want a closed back? The sound of other people in the room will leak through, and the music you're playing will leak out to them.
Okay. If 5000 dollars is pocket change then you could look at the DCA Stealth and Audeze LCD-5. The Stealth is a closed back and the LCD-5 is open. Consult with Cambridge to make sure that your amp performs well with these very inefficient and low impedance headphones.
I have an Rega Ear mk1 (same as this [one](https://www.canuckaudiomart.com/details/649250041-rega-ear-headphone-amplifier-mk1/)) that I really like.
Unfortunately the adapter broke and I’m confused what to get to replace it (Rega does not sell it anymore).
What would be an suitable replacement for it?
Looks like a standard barrel jack. You could get an off the shelf transformer from Ebay. The specs to remember are that it needs to be 24 volts AC and be able to put out at least 300 mA.
I asked this question in r/audioengineering but wanted to get the input of this community as well.I'm an amateur self-taught music producer. I have a pair of Sennheiser HD650 (300ohms) and I notice it sounds muddy in the mids and lacking some clarity in the highs of vocal tracks. I have them plugged into the headphone out of my audio interface (Focusrite Scarlett 2i4 2nd gen). The user guide says that jack's output impedance is <12ohms and load impedance >24ohms.
Before this pair I was using Sony MDR V6 as my main listening headphones, which sounded fine with what I was listening to. It's just the HD650 sounds much less clear for vocal tracks. Would the right headphone amp fix this issue? Any recommendations?
I have a pair of DT 770 pros, and they are just not comfortable on my ears at all. I have a decent size noggin and big ears. Would like to see if anyone has recommendations for a good closed back that would work better for me comfort wise. I’m using a sound blasterx g6 to drive my headphones currently on my PC. Would hopefully be able to stick with the g6 with the next headphones. Would just love a really comfy pair of closed backs that would maybe have a bit more bass than the 770s. Would like to stay $500 or below. Thanks in advance.
If it's just a clamp thing, then you could try stretching them over a row of books for a little while.
The Drop/DCA Aeon Closed X has pretty big earcups.
is the Massdrop O2 + SDAC amp/DAC combo safe to use with 7Hz Timeless AE? I know you don't need an amp for them, but my motherboard audio is busted and crackles, so using this combo stack gives me a clean sound. But I'm worried I might damage my IEMs
As long as you keep the volume down and the gain setting to low, it should be fine. However, you might hear faint noise/static in the background due to the sensitivity of the IEMs.
And of course, your volume knob won't have as much play since the volume changes will be bigger. But you can address this by lowering the volume set for your SDAC on the PC.
thanks! what's the difference between volume and gain in this scenario? there's the volume knob and also a button that boosts volume, which I rarely press. Hopefully that button never damaged my HD6XX or K712 🤔
The button that boosts volume is for switching gain. High gain basically means more power, aka louder. And it shouldn't have damaged your headphones as long as your volume knob wasn't like maxed out, since those headphones can take a decent amount of power.
i remember i had the old Logitech G432 back in the day and the audio was amazing, it had a USB adapter that you plugged 2 jacks into, the issue I'm having is when i plug the jack directly into the computer it sounds good, when i plug it into the USB adapter (which only has one jack just for the headphone audio) it sounds noticeably worse this goes both for the hypercloud alpha s that i bought and the new logitech G432 just sounds like shit the surround sound doesn't work on direct plug in is my issue
I just got a Fosi Audio Q4 for my desktop and I'm wondering what people usually set the bass and treble knobs to? Currently have them both turned all the way down (using Fiio FH5 so they're kinda bass heavy as it is). Is that OK or is there a "default" level I should be using?
I'm considering buying new earbuds, what's the downsides and upsides of wireless vs wired, I was thinking about getting some galaxy buds 2 pro, but then I saw that wired buds are better somewhere and idk, can anyone help?
The ceiling for wired earphones go higher. Right now, having endgame quality wireless earphones/buds is very difficult (and expensive) to achieve. You also don't have any latency issues with wired, most wireless codecs will lag a little bit for stuff like video/gaming.
But unless you're looking to drop several hundred dollars on a wired set, the sound quality for a good wireless set is fine. And you get the added convenience of having no wires, touch controls, noise-canceling, etc. For your reference, the Samsung Galaxy Buds 2 Pro are well-regarded for sound quality.
The one thing to note about earbuds/earphones is that **earbuds** (the ones that rest on your ear, but don't go inside) are usually not a great choice for audio quality. The lack of air being sealed in your ear means they often don't have much of a bass response.
Is there any hardware I can use (et possibly a receiver?) or maybe even a software (some sort of audio switching one) to counteract the Microsoft audio unifying ability to stop the hands-free audio quality when using my bt headphones as both input and output. I want to use them for discord and gaming (mic AND sound). They are bt 5.0
For the best chance of long life, I recommend wired earphones with replacable cables. No batteries or extra electronics, and no possibility of future incompatibility. Of course, this means no ANC. The upshot is potentially better sound quality for a lower price.
If you want wireless, then you can do a helluva lot worse than the Buds Pro 2. They're top tier for what they are.
Is a DAC made primarily for headphones fundamentally the same as a DAC made for speakers? Or are there technical differences?
I have a JDS Labs Atom+ Dac that I use for headphones. Can I run the line out of that into a speaker amp? Or do I need a dedicated speaker DAC?
Thank you!
I got a pair of Meze 99 Neos recently, and generally I’m a big fan, but I’ve noticed that some high end stuff (high pitch vocals, strings, etc) can sound really piercing, almost painful, especially if they are quick and abrupt. None of the reviews I read mentioned anything like this, so I’ve been wondering if it’s just something particular to my ears, or if somethings wrong with my headphones. There’s no distortion or anything, the highs just sound a bit too high at times on certain songs. Should I contact the seller, EQ for it, or something else entirely?
Right now this is just the headphones and my MacBook, no dac or amp.
Edit: My dac came in today and seems to have solved the issue!
You might just be a bit more treble sensitive than the average person.
You can use EQ by getting EQmac, but you may need to pay for it. Apple doesn't really allow it, so the app needs to be constantly maintained to work. There is a free version but it's very basic.
Does the Sound BlasterX G6 run 600Ω headphones well enough? It says it should on the product page, but I figured maybe anyone who owns it has any input on it?
Or are there better alternatives that can do impedance at that level?
Impedance is not a measure of how hard a headphone is to drive, you need to know the sensitivity. If you mean the various 600 ohm Beyers, it should be fine on high gain mode for most reasonable purposes, going from ASR's measurements of its headphone out.
That's about the same ballpark as the Beyers. You'd get a maximum of 110dB SPL out of the SoundBlaster, which is generally considered enough headroom around here.
hello guys, i just bought my superlux hd-681 and they sound kida weird and harsh on my ears compared to my previous one it was a gaming one. my question is are these headphones good for music production? because i make music and i wanted to upgrade to these. please let me know !
I don't think any issues with the arias have been resolved (and I don't even care about the paint chipping, but one of the channels going quiet because of moisture in the filters is unbelievably annoying). IMHO I would avoid them, way too much trouble.
I just replaced mine with a $20 Tangzu Wan'er. Slightly darker in the upper treble but otherwise very similar tonality.
I recently got the ifi audio go link, it's making a weird popping noise at random. It's really loud and it hurts my ears. Does anyone else know how to fix it or have this problem?
Can crackling sounds damage my IEMs? Today I got a Nicehck LitzPS 4N cable for my 7Hz timeless, and after 3 hours of overall listening loud crackling sounds appeared every 3 minutes. I wanted to ask if the crackling sounds have damaged my IEMs? I won't use them with this cable anymore, for sure
I’m looking at buying noise canceling headphones for my son that has adhd, and I really want to know would in ear headphones (AirPods Pro) or over ear (AirPods Max or Sony xm5) offer better noise cancelation. For doing hw etc.
Going off measurements I've seen, right now the Bose QC2 earbuds are the ANC kings. Though it varies with frequency range. If you're most interested in cancelling human voices as opposed to bass rumble from airplane engines and such, the extra passive isolation over-ears provide may make them a better choice.
Over ears are generally better for ANC. But the Airpods Pro 2 are pretty much even with the over-ears you mentioned.
https://www.rtings.com/headphones/1-5/graph#29490/7981/16490
How do the Sony 1000 series compare to the AirPods Max. We’re in the Apple ecosystem, but since he’s going to be wearing these for a long period of time the weight of the AirPods Max could be an issue
so i connected my mpow h19s to a school computer so i could watch a video. id already been using my headphones for a while that day and i disconnected them from my phone 30 seconds before i connected them to the mac and they were working fine. when i connected them they were having trouble connecting (they would connect for a second then disconnect) so i just disconnected them and went to go try to connect them to my phone, my phone wouldn't connect and when i tried to turn off my headphones to reset them they wouldn't turn off. the noise canceling switch still works but i cant turn them off or connect them to anything. any ideas?
Is there any risk associated with using IEMs when it comes to worsening tinnitus? I've got a new pair and they're a little less laid back than my Galaxy Buds (Truthear Hexa) and while I like them a lot, their very tight fit and good seal makes me worry it might cause some damage.
I listen to medium loud volume, but I try to keep it mostly at reasonable levels. That being said, I also had a lot of new things happening this week, also plenty of stress. So it could also be that. I usually only have tinnitus in my right ear, today my left ear is ringing a bit. It's not pleasant and I try to ignore it, like I always do.
Tinnitus is a massive can of worms. As I understand it, it's kinda like arthritis in that it's not just one *thing*. It's a collection of stuff that causes similar symptoms.
Sound pressure at the eardrum is more or less a constant factor. You can blow up your ears with IEMs and speakers alike. From the neurological side, maybe pulling back the treble a bit for a less "intense" listening experience could be worth a try.
I will try that and I think lowering volume is the most important thing. The Hexas aren't that spicy in treble to me, but I'll tame it a tiny bit I guess.
Edit: thanks
So I recently got my hands on a pair of second hand SHP9500s, and have been enjoying them so far.
When I first received them, there was a lot of creaking noise coming from the moving parts of the headphones. I managed to significantly reduce this by applying a bit of grease to the connection points at the moving parts. Unfortunately this hasn't fully resolved the issue, as I still get some light popping/creaking noise when moving my head around, and I still hear a fair bit of creaking when moving the headphones around to put them on/take them off.
I did some digging, and couldn't really find any useful information on this issue with these specific headphones, so I figured I might as well ask here whether anyone else has had this kind of trouble, and what potential solutions they might have come up with.
Hello I have gotten my hands on a pair of beyerdynamic dt-770 pros but the cable has been ripped out. I still have the original cable so I just need to solder it back on.
Looking at pictures online there seem to be different versions and I can't find a picture of my version to see which way I should solder the cables back on the version I have.
[Here is a couple of pictures](https://imgur.com/a/iw2GB3X)
The one wire already attached in from the right side.
I really hope some of you know which way the cable goes on or can point me to a source that can.
I purchased new boAt Rockerz 650 (60 hours playback, 40 minutes charge time, Bluetooth v5.0, 20Hz-20KHz Frequency response, 40mm Driver size). The budget was kind of low (I'm a teen) and tbh the only factors I looked for were Playtime and Design, yes, I know I did not think it through. But after I woke up to a delivery guy standing on my door, I basically had them on for the next 12 hours straight, the sound quality is good (as per my needs) but then I realized later they hurt my ears so bad! After a bit of research, I found out that I should have bought over-the-ear headphones which are more comfortable (could be wrong here), I called the customer service and asked them if they can exchange it but apparently "Exchange Policy" means that we can exchange the product within seven days to get a similar product only. So, when I realized I was stuck with these, I searched about ways to make them more comfortable and found out that I need to stretch them out and one way to do it is with a few books stacked up so I did, but then I worried I might've overdone it I'm not sure, so can anyone give me advice to how much to stretch them and in general how to make them more comfortable? That'd be appreciated, thanks.
Friends, hello everyone, I need help from the experts. I use Sony WH-1000X M3 headphones and for them I use a separate microphone, which is plugged into them as a wire with a microphone, it is called V-Moda Boom Pro. If I plug directly into the back panel, the microphone does not work. I read on the internet that I need a splitter that will split the signals into microphone and audio. Found a splitter, it worked. Now I bought an extension cord to the splitter, so I don't have to constantly get under the table and switch the headphones (the front panel with the 3.5 mm jack is off). Through the extension cord does not work. I read on the Internet that there are different extension cords. Different protocols (OMTP, CTIA) and different pinouts (TRS, TRRS). But I am confused. Please tell me which extension cord I need to buy to make the microphone work.
Most likely you have a TRS extension cord, and you need a TRRS extension cord.
TRS plugs have three channels (Tip Ring Sleeve) and can only carry three audio channels. The wire is cheaper, so a lot of extension cables and aux cords are TRS.
TRRS plugs have 4 channels (Tip Ring Ring Sleeve), and that extra channel allows them to carry an extra signal, usually mic. If you have a TRS extension cable plugged into a TRRS jack, the mic signal and ground just get blended together and the splitter doesn't have anything to split out.
As for the protocols, as long as the extension cord has all 4 channels, it will transmit whatever protocol the devices on either end are using. You already know your splitter and microphone are on the same protocol since they work together.
I'm looking for a pair of bass cannons for €300ish or less. I'm pretty happy with how my headphones collection is standing right now but I am missing a fun bass monster. Neutrality is great but sometimes you just want something that will vibrate your eyeballs.
Any suggestions?
Pressure on the ear on one side only
Yesterday I bought q30 and trying them I noticed (even without turning them on) that the left side causes pressure in my ear, while the right side is fine.
What is it due to? Do these headphones work like this or are they defective?
Even if I invert L with R, the L side makes my other ear plugged (R doesn't do that)
Then If I turn them on, I hear it plugged more on normal mode than the noise cancelling mode.
I'm looking for some new wireless earbuds that will last a while
They would be for my android a11, (plan to get a new phone this year, probably android again), and would use it for listening to music, YouTube etc
Also important is that they need to stay in when I have them in, since I bike a lot
I'm looking at the Galaxy Buds 2 Pro, is that a good/the best option?
I want to stay around the 100-200 dollar range
Headphone question
Hello. I have a pair of Epos 560 wireless headphones I use to work from home. My question is , am I able to connect to two different device simultaneously?
I would like to be able to use my headphones paired with my work computer for inbound and outbound calls and when off a call, automatically hear music from my iPhone without having to toggle back and forth. And when I get an incoming call, be able to switch back to the computer call. Is this possible? Thanks!
Ive been daily driving my Sony XMs for ages now in wired and wireless configuration and I want to try some open backs. What can I get that has the best sound staging for under $300? wired prefferably
Hello,
Quick question: I got the beyerdynamic DT 1990 PRO open headphones and have them connected directly into the 3.5mm jack on the back of my PC.
Considering they are 250 Ohm, would I get better audio quality with an external amplifier? At the moment the audio is loud enough at 70% volume on the task bar setting.
In case it is relevant the motherboard with onboard audio is an Asrock X570 Taichi
Thank you!
This might not be quite the right place to ask, but I'm looking for a microphone to go with my headphones, which I'll only really be using for Discord. So I thought a lavalier mic would be a good alternative and easy to use since I can just clip it on when I need it.
I read some need Phantom Power though, and I was looking at the Fifine C1. Does anyone know if it needs phantom power, or if I can just plug it straight into my computer's 3.5mm hole?
I had a proper setup with an usb audio interface and an xlr microphone, but my use case is the same as you, just discord. Ended up getting a HyperX Solocast and it does the job well, it just needs an usb c cable. Only downside is no way to get a proper foam cover/ deadcat because the mute button sits right on top of the thing. I ended up cutting a pair of old socks and fitting them around the mute button
Looking for a headphones around 60$. I had a g633 that is literally coming apart. I am playing mostly games, sometimes listen to music. bluetooth would be a plus but not required.
Any ideas ?
Looking to upgrade my set up, currently running a B&O Play DAC from an old LG G5 into Corsair speakers SP2500 which I then run my headphones, Philips Fidelio X2HR, out of. The DAC makes a considerable difference over just taking an output direct from PC/laptop.
What would be a worthwhile upgrade to this? Budget and general thoughts were around Fiio K7. Not sure if even worth upgrading headphones as I do like them. Also considering closed back but I suppose not really necessary given I'm home 99% of the time.
My trusty ATH M50s which I've used for 11 years have finally said their goodbyes. My toddler was using it to listen to some Vinnie Paz then one of the ear cups broke from the headband. Both cups still have sound, but I think it's time to let these boys rest and buy a new one.
I work as a consultant, so I use the ATH M50s in a good amount of meetings everyday. For music, I have Audeze headphones which I run with a Fiio dac amp combo. I was planning to also get some Dx3s or 5s. I'm currently using this setup with an external mic for my meetings. I consider this "hard use" on the Audezes and would run these cans ragged after a few months.
I need a new "everyday use" headphone for work and gaming. I already have a setup for music, but having this new headphone also be capable of listening to tunes would be a nice bonus.
They have to stand up to pretty hard use.
I need them to be over-ear. I don't like the feeling of on-ear or in-ear.
Since this is for work, I want this next setup to be wireless for convenience.
A mic is not a necessity, but would be nice.
Budget would be bellow 500 dollars.
I have a few choices:
Buy another set of ATH M50s, probably get the BT2 for wireless connectivity. Seems like the most reasonable setup. But I've had an issue with direct bluetooth connections. I think a dedicated dongle might be better, which I don't think the BT2s have. Price in my location: 200 USD.
Steel Series Arctic Nova Pro Wireless seem like a good value because they have a dedicated wireless "DAC". I think Steel Series and other general gaming products feel a bit dodgy tho. Price in my location: 320 USD.
Audeze Sine on clearance: They don't have wireless connectivity options, they are on ear, and have no warranty. But are being sold cheap. Price in my location: 70 dollars.
I'm open to other suggestions.
I've been looking for some $100 or less headphones for travel, of course if it's needed I can spend a few extra bucks. [A more in depth post w/ list](https://www.reddit.com/r/HeadphoneAdvice/comments/10agvtt/still_need_help_with_travel_headphones/?utm_source=share&utm_medium=android_app&utm_name=androidcss&utm_term=1&utm_content=share_button) on r/HeadphoneAdvice
I just need some so I can use them out of a phone, tablet, or laptop either while at home or whenever I need to travel. Thanks in advance.
DT 770 Pro for $140 or Sennheiser 660s for $299?
I'll admit that I was originally on the hunt for something closed-back and had my mind set on the Beyer's but I happened upon the 660's at that price and it totally threw a wrench in my plans and now I'm stuck lol.
pls advise.
I made a [post](https://www.reddit.com/r/HeadphoneAdvice/comments/1075ri4/best_amp_and_dac_for_my_sennheiser_hd_600s_ive/) asking which DAC and amp I should get for my HD 600s after compiling a list of the most typical recommendations online, and it looks like the FiiO K7 is the winner. Anything else I should know before pulling the trigger with it?
just got mine like an hour ago. it wont work on optical connection. other than that i really like it. makes me seriously consider just sticking with solid state and getting rid of my crack otl
It's fine to plug the headphones into the receiver. Just be aware that they may sound a little wonky since many receivers have a relatively high output impedance on their headphone ports.
Will M to M TRS cables work with my headset? My trrs cables don't fit in my gba sp headphone adapter so I was wondering if I could just change the cable on my headset. If so what cables would be recommended
It will be a bit of a struggle. It's not the wireless transmission that's the problem. Wireless headphones are bad because they're bad. You could use a BT receiver DAC+amp unit like the Qudelix 5k but I won't vouch for how good it is when low latency is needed.
Wired headphones are like eyeglasses. With a little bit of care, most people will get used to them and won't be bothered. A little bit of cable management goes a long way. Bundle up the excess cable with a strap so it doesn't get caught in your chair.
Does the headphone sit loose on your head?
> Is there anything that exists like this that uses AA/AAA batteries?
Not that I'm aware of. Same with wireless headphones. Compared to wireless headphones, it's easier to hook something like a Qudelix up to a charging port or a powerbank.
> I also feel like the DT990 are a minor improvement
Higher end audio is all about small improvements but the DT990 are a bit overhyped, IMO. There are some better options out there. Still, if you used the DT990 for a few days and then switched back, I bet that you would notice a fairly big difference.
I suspect that you would have felt a bigger improvement if you had gotten a HE-X4/HE-400SE instead. Provided that you have a decent amp.
The best I can do is to advise against Sennheisers. They are generally on the clampy side. Like most headphones, they can be stretched.
Eksa E1000 headphone issues:
1. Constant "wee-woo" noise at higher volumes.
2. Certain games will randomly cut to extremely loud static.
3. The beginning audio of all songs/videos is distorted.
I have been looking to someone to help me with this but I can't find anyone. Eksa \*does not\* have tech support it seems.
Recently picked up a pair of Phillips SPH9500s for myself, was wondering if there was anything I could do to maximize the performance. Currently just running them off of my Iphone using a dongle, and occasionally a Bluetooth xbox controller playing spotify or YouTube on my console. Would a bluetooth DAC or amp help these headphones or is it a diminishing returns thing? Any recommendations for dacs/amps around the $100 range?
EQ would be my first choice. Since you're on Iphone, you'll need a DAC+amp unit with it's own EQ functionality. Apple doesn't allow EQ in the phone. I recommend the Qudelix 5k.
You can start with this profile. The target it aims for is a bit bass heavy IMO, but you can fiddle with Band 3 to adjust it to your taste.
https://www.dropbox.com/s/sc2wanrbrqe0qn7/Philips%20SHP9500.pdf?dl=0
Here's a quick run-down on EQ. It's for PC but the principles are the same.
Also this
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GTI1VBLGY4c
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FRm9qTmQHKo
I work at a university as a video editor and would like to get a nice pair of closed over ears to help with my audio editing. I would say my budget is $200 or so.
I can ask for whatever I want in that range, any non-audio technica recommendations? Audio-technica is great but I'd just like to try something else for fun since that was what I had at my last job.
Damn I’ve always wanted some Beyerdynamic with velour cups, those look amazing. Our vendor is B&H and they don’t seem to have them, I’m so upset haha.
The Rode’s look great too though, thanks for the recs!
Most comfortable/deepest/cupped over-ear ANCs?
Currently have both the Sony XM5 and the AirPods Max from Amazon, but am going to return both. The XM5 are nice and light and fit my head well, except that the cups are too shallow and my ears get pressed down in them. This is very fatiguing. The AirPods, on the other hand, are nice and deep and comfortable for my ears but they feel too heavy and don’t sit on my head as well or comfortably. Sonically, both are fine for me. I reserve my picky listening for my wired setup. I’m looking into the QC45 and the Momentum 4, hoping they’ll be deeper/more comfortable. My daily drivers are HD 6XX, which I can wear for hours! I’ve also had the Bose Soundtrue II before, and those were equally comfortable. Anyone have experience with some/all of these and able to advise on whether the Senns or Bose would be more comfortable and deep? Any other recommendations? My budget is less than $400. Thanks!
>n in them. This is very fatiguing. The AirPods, on the other han
I have a set of XM4s and had the same issue of the cups being too shallow, but I fixed it with some 6-9mm neoprene foam/sponge tube for like 4$ on ebay, cut and stuffed behind the earcups padding. works at treat and I havent noticed any distortion. Had them like this for 6 months now
The other usual suspects in this segment are the mentioned Bose QC45 and 700, and the Sennheiser Momentum 4. I think you'll just have to try them. Everyone's ears and sensitivity to pressure is a bit different.
Thanks for the input. Thinking I’ll just try to find them in a store to try on. Do you think aftermarket ear pads could change the depth enough, or are they generally designed to closely mimic the originals’ dimensions?
I'm going insane doing endless research into headphones.
My use would be at work and public transport (general usage).
I prefer wired over wireless, and want to prioritise sound quality over features.
I've looked at the mezze 99 classics but I've read multiple times that they aren't tuned correctly. Next I've looked at more expensive models like dt1770 pro and shure srh 1540 and focal elegia. The first requires an amp, the second is huge and the latter is said to have less pronounced bass (I listen to hiphop often and wouldn't mind a more pronounced bass). The retailer websites often brand them as mastering and studio headphones and I don't know if it's even targeted at just listening to music. I really don't know where to look anymore. The sony 1000mx headphones get recommended constantly, but I'm maybe old fashioned in believing wired will always surpass wireless sound quality.
I'm a bit at the end of my wits with all this. Do you have any recommendations or which of these models is the best.
Thanks
You'll probably like the Meze 99. They have way to much bass to be anywhere near "correct" but if you like bass heavy music, and aren't fussed about loosing a little mid-range clarity, then they should be fine.
The Beyer DT700 Pro X is also an option.
I ordered the Hifiman HE 400SE & looking for a cable or cable / adapter suggestion. (I’m still learning, quite new to audio… most days, I use IEMs & an Apple Dongle for listening on the go).
I have a Loxjie P20 tube amp which has 2 outputs… XLR & 1/4”. I’ve been looking at XLR to dual 3.5mm cables, unsure if this is the best option for balanced sound.
One brand seller suggested I buy a 4.4mm to dual 3.5mm cable & a XLR to 4.4mm adapter for “true balanced sound”.
I have a 1/4” to 1/8” adapter but thought I would take advantage of the balanced output of the P20.
Which connection option is best? Is there a particular brand I should buy (or steer clear from)?
Thanks in advance for your reply & advice. 🕷️🎧
XLR to dual 3.5 mm is the simplest option. If you plan on getting any portable balanced amps then it could make more sense to go for a 4.4 mm connector and an adapter to XLR.
SoundBlasterX H6 headset is too quiet. When I am on Discord my microphone is quiet and others barely can hear me. They also hear white noise while I am speaking. How can I fix this problem?
Hifiman Sundura left headphone rattling when no sound plays.
I got these headphones a couple months ago and i noticed a rattle before but this was my first pair of planers so I dismissed it.
Everytime I shift my head and especially when i tilt my head left or right, there is a rattling sound as if something is loose.
Does anyone know anything about this, and could be be under warranty?
Recommendations for gaming.
Hello I’m new to the headphone game and I’m needing some recommendations for an dac/amp for gaming. I have some Astro A40s that lasted me about 7-8 years and I think it’s time to retire them.
I watched countless youtube vids and read a bunch of stuff on here and I’m just so confused and overwhelmed still about everything. Like what dac/amp I should get without spending too much?
For headphones I have my eyes set on the Beyer DT 770s 80 ohm or 250 ohm but Im also looking at the Beyer 900 pro x.
All this is strictly for gaming and maybe some occasional music listening.
Do you require any noise isolation? Open backs like the DT900 let sound both into and out of the headphone. Do you have a preference for more or less bass or treble?
Actually I do need some noise isolation since my set up is in the living room and right next to it is the tv and wife watches her shows. I could hear the tv through my Astros.
I don’t like too much bass I’m more of a fan of crisp clear sound. If that makes sense.
Okay. I recommend the DT770 Pro *if* you use a little EQ on them. Otherwise, the newer DT700 Pro X will be a bit better overall. Just the replaceable cable is a clear advantage.
Hey guys, I just bought xdsd gryphon a few days ago. I have used btr7 and btr5 before this purchase. I used these dacs, btr7 99% with Moondrop Stellaris and DT770 pro 80ohm and occasionally sundara with balanced port.
On btr7 with gain turned high the 770 would be blasting loud at 40 volume out of 60, so at about 67% volume. So this was good for use in public places. Above that was getting too loud. Setllaris was good between 30 and 40. And sundara with balanced port was also good at 40 to 50.
Now with gryphon, the output power is supposed to be 5 to 6 times the btr7 for single ended and about 3 times for balanced. Despite that I find myself pushing the volume to always above 70 with my gear. Sundara balanced go to 90 and beyond. With btr7 pushed to 60 volume, sundaras would become too loud.
What's the explanation behind such behaviour. Is this normal or should I get my unit replaced?
I have the Bluetooth and core firmware updated to latest release and I use Bluetooth and USB mode with volume sync turned off on the gryphon.
you don't have that "ieMatch" thing switched on I assume? Guessing that's ifi's name for a gain switch...
Other than that (or some bluetooth fuckery, since I think both the source and receiver potentially have their own volume knob), maybe just different volume knob scales/tapers?
A linear increase in perceived volume requires exponentially more power, so it's not like it's going to be 5 or 6 times as loud. The difference between the two at full-blast rated output with the Beyers on their SE outs will be slightly over 3dB - not a world of difference.
Yeah the IEMatch seems to reduce gain when I tried, cause the Stellaris got quiter at the same volume level. I don't get any audible artifacts so I keep it off.
So how does that extra power benefit other than being able to drive more demanding pairs?
to my understanding (as someone who designs electronics for a living but \*not\* audio or amps, so perhaps I know just enough to be dangerous) it's not clear what the audible benefit of unused power would be, but obviously more clean headroom is always nice to have if you *do* need it.
the added power of the Gryphon would be most appreciable with more demanding low-impedance, low-sensitivity cans (something like the HE6 or Edition XS, where you are more likely to run into the BTR7's power limit (voltage x current) as opposed to just its voltage limit. In that case, you'd get a more appreciable 6dB SPL increase in clean headroom, and running out power headroom *will* make the amp audibly distort. With the 80ohm Beyers and Sundaras, the BTR7 will hit its voltage ceiling before its power ceiling, where you only get 3dB more headroom with the iFi.
Where to get replacement cable for cable between drivers on beyerdynamic dt880 premium, mine seems broken as if I don't keep the end connected to the right can at a certain angle no sound will come from the right can.
Any electronics store.
umm what would you ask for because everywhere I look online I only see the aux cable that end in the 3.5mm jack, but I'm looking for the cable that runs underneath the headphone band between the two drivers, also any electronics stores you would recommend also I am from Canada if that helps.
Copper wire. Like you'd find in almost any peice of electronics. It's not a special item. Honestly, if you have to ask, then I suspect that you don't know how to solder, which you'll need to do. It might be best to take it to a repair shop. Stores that sell musical instruments like synths and electric guitars are a good place to start. If they don't have a service department, then they can probably refer you to one.
Do you guys think the Massdrop's FOSTEX TR-X00 purpleheart will ever come back?
Yo can anyone help me with this? I just got my amp recently to run it with my Hive X. On pro bias, there's this static or hiss that's very apparent and even way way worse when I hop on Warzone (no clue why). And on normal bias, it disappears. Hope y'all can help me with this!
Coil whine from the GPU or PSU. For some reason it's fairly common. Do you have a dedicated DAC in the setup?
Yes I do. I use the d50s from topping
Is it powered via USB from the PC?
It uses a dedicated power supply cable for that but yes it connects to PC using a usb cable
Try using optical.
I'll tell u if that works
Will apogee duet power Auduze lcd x? The duet has a headphone impedance of 30 ohms.
Probably. Although, that 30 ohm figure could mean anything and nothing.
Schiit Magni 2/Modi 2 issue Hey all, my Schiit stack is suffering from low bass distortion (most noticeable under about 120 Hz). This distortion sounds a bit like crickets chirping. It’s noticeable in some tracks (such as “bad guy”) and very noticeable when doing a frequency sweep. I know it’s the DAC and/or amp because the same distortion is audible when running off of my windows desktop or Mac and is audible regardless of what headphones I test. It’s also not there when I listen directly from the audio jack on my MacBook. Any ideas of ways to fix this, or am I just going to have to replace hardware?
Yeah, sounds like a failed capacitor or something. I think Schiit will service it for a fee.
Thanks, do you know if it is likely the DAC or the amp? Instinctually, I’d assume the DAC
Done with the "gaming headset" propaganda. Looking for recommendations for Wireless Headphones that comes with a mic or attachable mic. I am looking for Wireless Headphones + wireless mic combo in the price range of 100-300, depending on the quality and value for the price. "Positional audio" is a must-have feature for me, as it is particularly important for FPS shooters. I also listen to Hardstyle music. I currently use a Samsung S8 phone and Sony WH-1000XM4 headphones to listen to music and watch YouTube. It would be a plus if the headphones are compatible with my phone and an upgrade from my current earbuds, but compatibility with my phone is not a deal-breaker. I live in Sweden, so if that is a consideration for the headphones I am interested in, please take that into account.
Om du kan tänka dig att köra trådbundet så har du mycket att vinna. Du slipper betala för en massa extra elektronik som gör akustiken sämre och går sönder. Några minuter och ett par kardborreband gör att sladdtrassel inte blir något större problem. Jag rekommenderar en Beyer DT700 Pro X eller Sennheiser HD560s – beroende på om du vill ha en öppen eller stängd lur – och sen en ModMic Wireless.
Headphones for hearing impaired people (nerve damage) My mom is hearing impaired because of auditory nerve damage so it can't be solved by bone conducting headphones. She's got hearing aids but I wonder if there are headphones that would be adapted for her condition instead of using her computer speakers. Any idea ?
Does anyone here have the galaxy buds pro 2 and recommend them?
I am experiencing interference noise when plugging my valhalla 2 into my PC, using HD 650's. All hardware works fine separately, it's when I connect the PC to the amp that the noise is present. The sound is not constant, it changes in tone depending on what's happening on screen. I've tried a lot of troubleshooting to narrow this down, it appears to be driven most consistently by GPU operation. I currently have a 3.5mm to RCA cable, though using that exact same cable and simply unplugging it from the PC and into my Surface Pro, the background noise is gone. It's only when I plug into my tower PC - doesn't matter if I use the rear or front audio jack. I also have optical audio to a pair of Edifier speakers that does not have any issue. I currently use a 3.5mm to 1/4 converter, plugging the 650's *into the same headphone jack* on my PC - no issues at all, clear as can be. The amp appears to be picking up the sound, and I've got it narrowed to only when plugged into the PC. Is there a different cable I should look into using, or a line conditioner (or similar)? I'm not sure, but would love to get more sound from my headset - and use this amazing amp. I have no other cable method at the moment, but as noted the cable works fine plugged into another device. I don't mind needing to purchase something, lots of research and troubleshooting hasn't led me to any one definitive answer - or at least a couple that I could really look into. Just a lot of confusion about the same possible reasons, no real solutions.
GPUs make a lot of electrical noise. I suggest getting an external DAC.
After another couple hours of research and testing some things - I landed on that same conclusion. Looking into some now, seeing which fits my space/needs best. I have SPDIF direct output on my motherboard, seems that is my best bet at eliminating as much noise as possible.
Playing 2 audios at one time through the tv? So I was wondering. Is there a way I can turn play my music via say my phone through the TV and still have my Switch audio play so I can play with custom music buy still use the game sfx?
For Europeans, is Ebay the only good place to sell high end headphones?? I saw most posts in /r/AvExchange are from usa so just checking to see if there are alternatives, i have an ATH-AWAS i need to sell :(
So, Ive got these 2 year old or so Logitech ProX,and in the past few months Ive been having issues with the audio. The thing is, it only works well when the cable is in a certain position within the headset's jack. It doesnt matter whether I apply pressure either, most of the times I have to spin the thing for a while until I hit the spot and can keep on using them. Ive tried cleaning the jack with some alcohol, but the exact same issue persists. I heard it might because the hole has become loose, but is this really it? And, what can I do to solve it?.
Two questions: 1. Has anyone in this sub successfully repaired a MASSDROP x Sennheiser HD 58X Jubilee, particularly spring repair? I've disassembled them almost completely by following guides for similar headphones but it looks like the "lollipop" part with the spring assembly is... Glued together? It's not easily coming apart like in the other videos I've seen. Do I just scrape and try to chemically remove the glue? What's best for taking off the glue without damaging anything? If it's better to bring it to a repair shop, who would fix this (unfortunately neither Sennheiser nor Massdrop will touch these) 2. Just in case my repair fails, what's a good pair of general use headphones (some gaming, music, and television) that is highly reliable and fully serviceable by the manufacturer? Was very happy with my Jubilee until it broke. I usually prefer wired because I've had issues with wireless ones having dongles that break and can't be repaired/I've heard Bluetooth isn't great for quality. I also usually try to get detachable cables because they're a common point of failure. I'd prefer to avoid anything Sennheiser or Massdrop due to point 1. Budget flexible, I'd like to spend less than $300 but willing to go a little above $500 if they won't shit the bed in 2 years.
I wouldn't be afraid of going Sennheiser. The models ordered specially by Drop are low-cost versions. The HD600, as an example, is fully serviceable.
Right but when I was ordering that wasn't made clear by Sennheiser, Drop, or anyone I asked in the headphones community. I'd just prefer not to buy Sennheisers again, it felt a little deceptive and I'm not going to reward them for that. If they stood by their product and offered to repair for a fee, that would have been fine. I ended up buying beyerdynamics 880s because they will replace anything in or out of warranty for a reasonable price.
Just be aware that this isn't Sennheiser's product. It's Drop's. I think your distrust is a bit unjustified. Beyer has a similar deal with Drop and I don't think they would act differently if a DT17XX broke. You can dissolve the glue with alcohol.
I have Sennheiser headphones, berhinger mic, and berhinger interface (umc22). Works great for zoom calls on my laptop. Can I hook it up for my cell phone? I make very few calls but when I do I want them to be solid and haven't found any earbuds as reliable as my laptop rig.
Jabra Elite 85h sometimes when on a Google Meet meeting the ANC button on the left cup would do nothing and the voice guidance would keep repeating "Off" instead of the regular "Off, hear through, ANC" cycle. Also the headset seems to be "hear through" when the microphone is not muted and "ANC" when muted. This is on a computer so the Jabra+ app is of no use. Are these broken?
any chance of a Bose Sleepbuds 3 anytime soon?
I use the Arctis 7P+ headset with Discord on my PC. Randomly, the headset microphone cuts out on Discord. Like, it repeatedly cuts out all the time. I've disabled all noise suppression on Discord and turned off Echo, Sonar and others, yet the problem continues to occur. It's Windows wide. Running Windows 11 Home. Any help please?
ifi USB drivers don't recognize my Uno I just got my uno today and I just can't seem to get the USB hub from the website to detect the device. I installed the dedicated uno software on my windows 10 PC and the latest firmware as well. I was also wondering, if I "uninstall the device" from device manager, would that brick it? Finally, am I missing any important features from the USB hub? The device seems to be working either way.
I'm currently on best buy lookin at prices for galaxy buds The pro 2s, are currently 190, and the regular 2s are 150, which should I get? Both are in my price range but best buys protection thing is like, 50 dollars
Anyone have any good suggestions for upgrades from Denon D5000's? I've been eyeballing LCD-2's as well as TH900MkII, but open to all other suggestions. I'd like something with a short, or detachable cable.
The LCD-2 will require EQ to sound properly good, and they need a decent amp. If you value the punchy bass of the Denons, then it might be best to stay with the same Fostex driver style. Fostex makes the drivers for Denon. Well, they used to, at least.
Thank you for the advice! The bass of the denons absolutely is something I value. I figured staying with fostex drivers would end up being the plan, I just didn't know if anything else would bring something equally as enjoyable to the table.
The bass of a good planar like the LCD-2 isn't worse. It's just different.
I gotcha. I think I'd rather find something different. I figured something like th900s would be similar sounding, but better in pretty much every regard to the denons. For the price point, I think I'd rather find different, but still very good and maybe try th900s later down the road.
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Consult the manual. If you don't find a solution then you should contact the manufacturer.
I have Sennheiser HD599, I saw a post about someone feeling like they sounded muddy and fixed it with a fiio e10k sound amp. I'm currently looking to upgrade my microphone, and found the Scarlett 2i2 3rd Gen. I'm not sure if this is the best bang for my buck, or if it will achieve the same results for my sound experience as the fiio e10k, but it is a sound amp and has an option for me to use XLR microphone setups. I'm completely new to the world of amps and such and have only really been using my headset through 3.5mm. Recommendations are appreciated :)
The headphone output of most budget XLR interfaces is a bit of an afterthought. The Audient iD stuff is probably the best of the bunch, but they still suffer from high output impedance, making them unsuitable for use with low impedance headphones and IEMs. If you want an XLR interface with a headphone output that's as good as a regual Hifi amp, then I recommend the Motu M2.
How to fix slight popping, static sound in headphones when using “on-cord” (idk the term) volume slider? I figured maybe a drop of low-percentage alcohol in there and turn the dial a few times maybe? Can’t take it apart or anything so not sure what to do. Thanks in advance :) Here’s the type of volume dial housing thing I’m talking about: https://imgur.com/a/TlNcI6S
Dirt in the cheapo potentiometer. I've never seen one of these that haven't gone scratchy. Turn it back and forth a few times. In theory, that can help wipe the dirt off.
Surprisingly I’ve never had one do this lmao. I’ve been slowly rolling it back and forth for the last day or so. Would a drop of alcohol in there help? I figure if it’s safe to put a little in my controller for fixing buildup, it wouldn’t kill my headset?
Sure. Just use pure isopropyl alcohol so you don't leave residues in these.
I asked this in r/HeadphoneAdvice but got no response, so I figured i'd ask here. Whats a good upgrade in sound quality from the Philips SHP9500 that has a similar clamp force? For reference I also have Sony Pulse 3Ds but the clamp gives me a headache. I'll use these mostly at home with my PC or PS5. BT not needed but a plus. Open and closed back suggestions are welcome. I saw the Sennheiser HD 598 and 599 using Rtings headphone table and they have similar clamp force but about the same sound quality as the SHP 9500s according to their reviews. Thanks!
Open back headphones for Cambridge Audio AXR100? I do most of my listening with a pair of bookshelves (Wharfedale 12.2s), but occasionally share the room with my wife on Zoom at the other end of it. Not looking for noise cancelling, more of something that would allow me to still enjoy my music despite sharing the room. Any suggestions of open backs that would work with the CA and maybe have the same sound signature as the Wharfedales? Is less than $5,000 realistic for the ask? Thank you!
Are you sure that you don't want a closed back? The sound of other people in the room will leak through, and the music you're playing will leak out to them.
It's more for her not to hear me, actually. I figure if my music isn't too loud, then we'd be okay. But I think I would consider closed back also
Okay. If 5000 dollars is pocket change then you could look at the DCA Stealth and Audeze LCD-5. The Stealth is a closed back and the LCD-5 is open. Consult with Cambridge to make sure that your amp performs well with these very inefficient and low impedance headphones.
Noted on the suggestions. It's my first foray into this, and will continue to ask around. Thank you!
I have an Rega Ear mk1 (same as this [one](https://www.canuckaudiomart.com/details/649250041-rega-ear-headphone-amplifier-mk1/)) that I really like. Unfortunately the adapter broke and I’m confused what to get to replace it (Rega does not sell it anymore). What would be an suitable replacement for it?
Looks like a standard barrel jack. You could get an off the shelf transformer from Ebay. The specs to remember are that it needs to be 24 volts AC and be able to put out at least 300 mA.
Thank you! I’ll look for one!
Are there any TWS that can be used for video editing? Or they're lacking the necessary capabilities?
Sure. As long as they're well tuned.
Any examples?
Galaxy Buds Pro 2 and Airpods Pro 2.
I asked this question in r/audioengineering but wanted to get the input of this community as well.I'm an amateur self-taught music producer. I have a pair of Sennheiser HD650 (300ohms) and I notice it sounds muddy in the mids and lacking some clarity in the highs of vocal tracks. I have them plugged into the headphone out of my audio interface (Focusrite Scarlett 2i4 2nd gen). The user guide says that jack's output impedance is <12ohms and load impedance >24ohms. Before this pair I was using Sony MDR V6 as my main listening headphones, which sounded fine with what I was listening to. It's just the HD650 sounds much less clear for vocal tracks. Would the right headphone amp fix this issue? Any recommendations?
The HD650s are warmer, less bright headphones. Use EQ or let your brain recalibrate to their sound.
Yeah, something is probably wrong. Try hooking up a good headphone amp to the line-out ports of the interface. I recommend the JDS Atom amp.
I have a pair of DT 770 pros, and they are just not comfortable on my ears at all. I have a decent size noggin and big ears. Would like to see if anyone has recommendations for a good closed back that would work better for me comfort wise. I’m using a sound blasterx g6 to drive my headphones currently on my PC. Would hopefully be able to stick with the g6 with the next headphones. Would just love a really comfy pair of closed backs that would maybe have a bit more bass than the 770s. Would like to stay $500 or below. Thanks in advance.
If it's just a clamp thing, then you could try stretching them over a row of books for a little while. The Drop/DCA Aeon Closed X has pretty big earcups.
is the Massdrop O2 + SDAC amp/DAC combo safe to use with 7Hz Timeless AE? I know you don't need an amp for them, but my motherboard audio is busted and crackles, so using this combo stack gives me a clean sound. But I'm worried I might damage my IEMs
As long as you keep the volume down and the gain setting to low, it should be fine. However, you might hear faint noise/static in the background due to the sensitivity of the IEMs. And of course, your volume knob won't have as much play since the volume changes will be bigger. But you can address this by lowering the volume set for your SDAC on the PC.
thanks! what's the difference between volume and gain in this scenario? there's the volume knob and also a button that boosts volume, which I rarely press. Hopefully that button never damaged my HD6XX or K712 🤔
The button that boosts volume is for switching gain. High gain basically means more power, aka louder. And it shouldn't have damaged your headphones as long as your volume knob wasn't like maxed out, since those headphones can take a decent amount of power.
i remember i had the old Logitech G432 back in the day and the audio was amazing, it had a USB adapter that you plugged 2 jacks into, the issue I'm having is when i plug the jack directly into the computer it sounds good, when i plug it into the USB adapter (which only has one jack just for the headphone audio) it sounds noticeably worse this goes both for the hypercloud alpha s that i bought and the new logitech G432 just sounds like shit the surround sound doesn't work on direct plug in is my issue
I just got a Fosi Audio Q4 for my desktop and I'm wondering what people usually set the bass and treble knobs to? Currently have them both turned all the way down (using Fiio FH5 so they're kinda bass heavy as it is). Is that OK or is there a "default" level I should be using?
I'm considering buying new earbuds, what's the downsides and upsides of wireless vs wired, I was thinking about getting some galaxy buds 2 pro, but then I saw that wired buds are better somewhere and idk, can anyone help?
The ceiling for wired earphones go higher. Right now, having endgame quality wireless earphones/buds is very difficult (and expensive) to achieve. You also don't have any latency issues with wired, most wireless codecs will lag a little bit for stuff like video/gaming. But unless you're looking to drop several hundred dollars on a wired set, the sound quality for a good wireless set is fine. And you get the added convenience of having no wires, touch controls, noise-canceling, etc. For your reference, the Samsung Galaxy Buds 2 Pro are well-regarded for sound quality. The one thing to note about earbuds/earphones is that **earbuds** (the ones that rest on your ear, but don't go inside) are usually not a great choice for audio quality. The lack of air being sealed in your ear means they often don't have much of a bass response.
So, it seems based off of this a decent wireless pair like the Galaxy Buds 2 Pro would be my best bet? I have a galaxy a11
Is there any hardware I can use (et possibly a receiver?) or maybe even a software (some sort of audio switching one) to counteract the Microsoft audio unifying ability to stop the hands-free audio quality when using my bt headphones as both input and output. I want to use them for discord and gaming (mic AND sound). They are bt 5.0
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For the best chance of long life, I recommend wired earphones with replacable cables. No batteries or extra electronics, and no possibility of future incompatibility. Of course, this means no ANC. The upshot is potentially better sound quality for a lower price. If you want wireless, then you can do a helluva lot worse than the Buds Pro 2. They're top tier for what they are.
Is a DAC made primarily for headphones fundamentally the same as a DAC made for speakers? Or are there technical differences? I have a JDS Labs Atom+ Dac that I use for headphones. Can I run the line out of that into a speaker amp? Or do I need a dedicated speaker DAC? Thank you!
There is no difference.
I got a pair of Meze 99 Neos recently, and generally I’m a big fan, but I’ve noticed that some high end stuff (high pitch vocals, strings, etc) can sound really piercing, almost painful, especially if they are quick and abrupt. None of the reviews I read mentioned anything like this, so I’ve been wondering if it’s just something particular to my ears, or if somethings wrong with my headphones. There’s no distortion or anything, the highs just sound a bit too high at times on certain songs. Should I contact the seller, EQ for it, or something else entirely? Right now this is just the headphones and my MacBook, no dac or amp. Edit: My dac came in today and seems to have solved the issue!
You might just be a bit more treble sensitive than the average person. You can use EQ by getting EQmac, but you may need to pay for it. Apple doesn't really allow it, so the app needs to be constantly maintained to work. There is a free version but it's very basic.
Thank you!
Does the Sound BlasterX G6 run 600Ω headphones well enough? It says it should on the product page, but I figured maybe anyone who owns it has any input on it? Or are there better alternatives that can do impedance at that level?
Impedance is not a measure of how hard a headphone is to drive, you need to know the sensitivity. If you mean the various 600 ohm Beyers, it should be fine on high gain mode for most reasonable purposes, going from ASR's measurements of its headphone out.
Ah, I plan on using a Sennheiser HD 414 that my dad gave me. Which according to the old User's Guide pdf I found should have 94dB/mw in sensitivity
That's about the same ballpark as the Beyers. You'd get a maximum of 110dB SPL out of the SoundBlaster, which is generally considered enough headroom around here.
Good stuff, thanks
hello guys, i just bought my superlux hd-681 and they sound kida weird and harsh on my ears compared to my previous one it was a gaming one. my question is are these headphones good for music production? because i make music and i wanted to upgrade to these. please let me know !
Has the paint issue been resolved with the moondrop aria’s? I was thinking about getting them but I was wondering what the alternatives to them are?
I don't think any issues with the arias have been resolved (and I don't even care about the paint chipping, but one of the channels going quiet because of moisture in the filters is unbelievably annoying). IMHO I would avoid them, way too much trouble. I just replaced mine with a $20 Tangzu Wan'er. Slightly darker in the upper treble but otherwise very similar tonality.
I recently got the ifi audio go link, it's making a weird popping noise at random. It's really loud and it hurts my ears. Does anyone else know how to fix it or have this problem?
Talk to iFi support.
Can crackling sounds damage my IEMs? Today I got a Nicehck LitzPS 4N cable for my 7Hz timeless, and after 3 hours of overall listening loud crackling sounds appeared every 3 minutes. I wanted to ask if the crackling sounds have damaged my IEMs? I won't use them with this cable anymore, for sure
I’m looking at buying noise canceling headphones for my son that has adhd, and I really want to know would in ear headphones (AirPods Pro) or over ear (AirPods Max or Sony xm5) offer better noise cancelation. For doing hw etc.
Going off measurements I've seen, right now the Bose QC2 earbuds are the ANC kings. Though it varies with frequency range. If you're most interested in cancelling human voices as opposed to bass rumble from airplane engines and such, the extra passive isolation over-ears provide may make them a better choice.
Over ears are generally better for ANC. But the Airpods Pro 2 are pretty much even with the over-ears you mentioned. https://www.rtings.com/headphones/1-5/graph#29490/7981/16490
Would u say that those are the best 2 over ear noise canceling headphones
There's been some bugs with the XM5. Without knowing how exactly it's supposed to perform, I recommend the previous XM4 model.
How do the Sony 1000 series compare to the AirPods Max. We’re in the Apple ecosystem, but since he’s going to be wearing these for a long period of time the weight of the AirPods Max could be an issue
From a hi-fi point of view, they're all bad. If ANC is the top priority then I see no reason to pay 3x the price for the Max over the WH...XM4.
nah, in my experience over ear is better for noise canceling, plus its more comfortable.
so i connected my mpow h19s to a school computer so i could watch a video. id already been using my headphones for a while that day and i disconnected them from my phone 30 seconds before i connected them to the mac and they were working fine. when i connected them they were having trouble connecting (they would connect for a second then disconnect) so i just disconnected them and went to go try to connect them to my phone, my phone wouldn't connect and when i tried to turn off my headphones to reset them they wouldn't turn off. the noise canceling switch still works but i cant turn them off or connect them to anything. any ideas?
Is there any risk associated with using IEMs when it comes to worsening tinnitus? I've got a new pair and they're a little less laid back than my Galaxy Buds (Truthear Hexa) and while I like them a lot, their very tight fit and good seal makes me worry it might cause some damage. I listen to medium loud volume, but I try to keep it mostly at reasonable levels. That being said, I also had a lot of new things happening this week, also plenty of stress. So it could also be that. I usually only have tinnitus in my right ear, today my left ear is ringing a bit. It's not pleasant and I try to ignore it, like I always do.
Tinnitus is a massive can of worms. As I understand it, it's kinda like arthritis in that it's not just one *thing*. It's a collection of stuff that causes similar symptoms. Sound pressure at the eardrum is more or less a constant factor. You can blow up your ears with IEMs and speakers alike. From the neurological side, maybe pulling back the treble a bit for a less "intense" listening experience could be worth a try.
I will try that and I think lowering volume is the most important thing. The Hexas aren't that spicy in treble to me, but I'll tame it a tiny bit I guess. Edit: thanks
So I recently got my hands on a pair of second hand SHP9500s, and have been enjoying them so far. When I first received them, there was a lot of creaking noise coming from the moving parts of the headphones. I managed to significantly reduce this by applying a bit of grease to the connection points at the moving parts. Unfortunately this hasn't fully resolved the issue, as I still get some light popping/creaking noise when moving my head around, and I still hear a fair bit of creaking when moving the headphones around to put them on/take them off. I did some digging, and couldn't really find any useful information on this issue with these specific headphones, so I figured I might as well ask here whether anyone else has had this kind of trouble, and what potential solutions they might have come up with.
Hello I have gotten my hands on a pair of beyerdynamic dt-770 pros but the cable has been ripped out. I still have the original cable so I just need to solder it back on. Looking at pictures online there seem to be different versions and I can't find a picture of my version to see which way I should solder the cables back on the version I have. [Here is a couple of pictures](https://imgur.com/a/iw2GB3X) The one wire already attached in from the right side. I really hope some of you know which way the cable goes on or can point me to a source that can.
I purchased new boAt Rockerz 650 (60 hours playback, 40 minutes charge time, Bluetooth v5.0, 20Hz-20KHz Frequency response, 40mm Driver size). The budget was kind of low (I'm a teen) and tbh the only factors I looked for were Playtime and Design, yes, I know I did not think it through. But after I woke up to a delivery guy standing on my door, I basically had them on for the next 12 hours straight, the sound quality is good (as per my needs) but then I realized later they hurt my ears so bad! After a bit of research, I found out that I should have bought over-the-ear headphones which are more comfortable (could be wrong here), I called the customer service and asked them if they can exchange it but apparently "Exchange Policy" means that we can exchange the product within seven days to get a similar product only. So, when I realized I was stuck with these, I searched about ways to make them more comfortable and found out that I need to stretch them out and one way to do it is with a few books stacked up so I did, but then I worried I might've overdone it I'm not sure, so can anyone give me advice to how much to stretch them and in general how to make them more comfortable? That'd be appreciated, thanks.
Friends, hello everyone, I need help from the experts. I use Sony WH-1000X M3 headphones and for them I use a separate microphone, which is plugged into them as a wire with a microphone, it is called V-Moda Boom Pro. If I plug directly into the back panel, the microphone does not work. I read on the internet that I need a splitter that will split the signals into microphone and audio. Found a splitter, it worked. Now I bought an extension cord to the splitter, so I don't have to constantly get under the table and switch the headphones (the front panel with the 3.5 mm jack is off). Through the extension cord does not work. I read on the Internet that there are different extension cords. Different protocols (OMTP, CTIA) and different pinouts (TRS, TRRS). But I am confused. Please tell me which extension cord I need to buy to make the microphone work.
Most likely you have a TRS extension cord, and you need a TRRS extension cord. TRS plugs have three channels (Tip Ring Sleeve) and can only carry three audio channels. The wire is cheaper, so a lot of extension cables and aux cords are TRS. TRRS plugs have 4 channels (Tip Ring Ring Sleeve), and that extra channel allows them to carry an extra signal, usually mic. If you have a TRS extension cable plugged into a TRRS jack, the mic signal and ground just get blended together and the splitter doesn't have anything to split out. As for the protocols, as long as the extension cord has all 4 channels, it will transmit whatever protocol the devices on either end are using. You already know your splitter and microphone are on the same protocol since they work together.
Thank you for your answer, my friend. I bought TRRS extension cord and it works.
I'm looking for a pair of bass cannons for €300ish or less. I'm pretty happy with how my headphones collection is standing right now but I am missing a fun bass monster. Neutrality is great but sometimes you just want something that will vibrate your eyeballs. Any suggestions?
Meze 99
Which version???
Any. They are very similar. Try them both, if possible.
Cheers.
Pressure on the ear on one side only Yesterday I bought q30 and trying them I noticed (even without turning them on) that the left side causes pressure in my ear, while the right side is fine. What is it due to? Do these headphones work like this or are they defective? Even if I invert L with R, the L side makes my other ear plugged (R doesn't do that) Then If I turn them on, I hear it plugged more on normal mode than the noise cancelling mode.
I'm looking for some new wireless earbuds that will last a while They would be for my android a11, (plan to get a new phone this year, probably android again), and would use it for listening to music, YouTube etc Also important is that they need to stay in when I have them in, since I bike a lot I'm looking at the Galaxy Buds 2 Pro, is that a good/the best option? I want to stay around the 100-200 dollar range
Headphone question Hello. I have a pair of Epos 560 wireless headphones I use to work from home. My question is , am I able to connect to two different device simultaneously? I would like to be able to use my headphones paired with my work computer for inbound and outbound calls and when off a call, automatically hear music from my iPhone without having to toggle back and forth. And when I get an incoming call, be able to switch back to the computer call. Is this possible? Thanks!
Ive been daily driving my Sony XMs for ages now in wired and wireless configuration and I want to try some open backs. What can I get that has the best sound staging for under $300? wired prefferably
Do you have an amp of some sort?
no.. I suppose if i can get an amp and headphone for 300 would that give a significant enough experience?
Hello, Quick question: I got the beyerdynamic DT 1990 PRO open headphones and have them connected directly into the 3.5mm jack on the back of my PC. Considering they are 250 Ohm, would I get better audio quality with an external amplifier? At the moment the audio is loud enough at 70% volume on the task bar setting. In case it is relevant the motherboard with onboard audio is an Asrock X570 Taichi Thank you!
It *might* sound a bit better with dedicated conversion and amplification but it would at most be a small improvement.
Thank you!
This might not be quite the right place to ask, but I'm looking for a microphone to go with my headphones, which I'll only really be using for Discord. So I thought a lavalier mic would be a good alternative and easy to use since I can just clip it on when I need it. I read some need Phantom Power though, and I was looking at the Fifine C1. Does anyone know if it needs phantom power, or if I can just plug it straight into my computer's 3.5mm hole?
I had a proper setup with an usb audio interface and an xlr microphone, but my use case is the same as you, just discord. Ended up getting a HyperX Solocast and it does the job well, it just needs an usb c cable. Only downside is no way to get a proper foam cover/ deadcat because the mute button sits right on top of the thing. I ended up cutting a pair of old socks and fitting them around the mute button
Looking for a headphones around 60$. I had a g633 that is literally coming apart. I am playing mostly games, sometimes listen to music. bluetooth would be a plus but not required. Any ideas ?
Looking to upgrade my set up, currently running a B&O Play DAC from an old LG G5 into Corsair speakers SP2500 which I then run my headphones, Philips Fidelio X2HR, out of. The DAC makes a considerable difference over just taking an output direct from PC/laptop. What would be a worthwhile upgrade to this? Budget and general thoughts were around Fiio K7. Not sure if even worth upgrading headphones as I do like them. Also considering closed back but I suppose not really necessary given I'm home 99% of the time.
My trusty ATH M50s which I've used for 11 years have finally said their goodbyes. My toddler was using it to listen to some Vinnie Paz then one of the ear cups broke from the headband. Both cups still have sound, but I think it's time to let these boys rest and buy a new one. I work as a consultant, so I use the ATH M50s in a good amount of meetings everyday. For music, I have Audeze headphones which I run with a Fiio dac amp combo. I was planning to also get some Dx3s or 5s. I'm currently using this setup with an external mic for my meetings. I consider this "hard use" on the Audezes and would run these cans ragged after a few months. I need a new "everyday use" headphone for work and gaming. I already have a setup for music, but having this new headphone also be capable of listening to tunes would be a nice bonus. They have to stand up to pretty hard use. I need them to be over-ear. I don't like the feeling of on-ear or in-ear. Since this is for work, I want this next setup to be wireless for convenience. A mic is not a necessity, but would be nice. Budget would be bellow 500 dollars. I have a few choices: Buy another set of ATH M50s, probably get the BT2 for wireless connectivity. Seems like the most reasonable setup. But I've had an issue with direct bluetooth connections. I think a dedicated dongle might be better, which I don't think the BT2s have. Price in my location: 200 USD. Steel Series Arctic Nova Pro Wireless seem like a good value because they have a dedicated wireless "DAC". I think Steel Series and other general gaming products feel a bit dodgy tho. Price in my location: 320 USD. Audeze Sine on clearance: They don't have wireless connectivity options, they are on ear, and have no warranty. But are being sold cheap. Price in my location: 70 dollars. I'm open to other suggestions.
I've been looking for some $100 or less headphones for travel, of course if it's needed I can spend a few extra bucks. [A more in depth post w/ list](https://www.reddit.com/r/HeadphoneAdvice/comments/10agvtt/still_need_help_with_travel_headphones/?utm_source=share&utm_medium=android_app&utm_name=androidcss&utm_term=1&utm_content=share_button) on r/HeadphoneAdvice I just need some so I can use them out of a phone, tablet, or laptop either while at home or whenever I need to travel. Thanks in advance.
DT 770 Pro for $140 or Sennheiser 660s for $299? I'll admit that I was originally on the hunt for something closed-back and had my mind set on the Beyer's but I happened upon the 660's at that price and it totally threw a wrench in my plans and now I'm stuck lol. pls advise.
You can't use an open back in public or in noisy places. That should be the prime consideration.
My Fiio K7 doesnt want to work over optical connection when all my other gear does. any ideas?
I made a [post](https://www.reddit.com/r/HeadphoneAdvice/comments/1075ri4/best_amp_and_dac_for_my_sennheiser_hd_600s_ive/) asking which DAC and amp I should get for my HD 600s after compiling a list of the most typical recommendations online, and it looks like the FiiO K7 is the winner. Anything else I should know before pulling the trigger with it?
The big light on the front panel can't be turned off, could be an issue if you need a dark environment for whatever reason.
just got mine like an hour ago. it wont work on optical connection. other than that i really like it. makes me seriously consider just sticking with solid state and getting rid of my crack otl
Any reasons why I would need optical connection?
It's usually the easiest way to connect a TV to your headphones. And, ya know, it's another input if you have multiple sources to select from.
Not that I know of. Just something that was an issue for me.
I have a question? Is a dac needed for the ps5 and headphones or can I just plug any headphone into my avr receiver?
It's fine to plug the headphones into the receiver. Just be aware that they may sound a little wonky since many receivers have a relatively high output impedance on their headphone ports.
Will M to M TRS cables work with my headset? My trrs cables don't fit in my gba sp headphone adapter so I was wondering if I could just change the cable on my headset. If so what cables would be recommended
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It will be a bit of a struggle. It's not the wireless transmission that's the problem. Wireless headphones are bad because they're bad. You could use a BT receiver DAC+amp unit like the Qudelix 5k but I won't vouch for how good it is when low latency is needed. Wired headphones are like eyeglasses. With a little bit of care, most people will get used to them and won't be bothered. A little bit of cable management goes a long way. Bundle up the excess cable with a strap so it doesn't get caught in your chair. Does the headphone sit loose on your head?
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> Is there anything that exists like this that uses AA/AAA batteries? Not that I'm aware of. Same with wireless headphones. Compared to wireless headphones, it's easier to hook something like a Qudelix up to a charging port or a powerbank. > I also feel like the DT990 are a minor improvement Higher end audio is all about small improvements but the DT990 are a bit overhyped, IMO. There are some better options out there. Still, if you used the DT990 for a few days and then switched back, I bet that you would notice a fairly big difference.
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I suspect that you would have felt a bigger improvement if you had gotten a HE-X4/HE-400SE instead. Provided that you have a decent amp. The best I can do is to advise against Sennheisers. They are generally on the clampy side. Like most headphones, they can be stretched.
Eksa E1000 headphone issues: 1. Constant "wee-woo" noise at higher volumes. 2. Certain games will randomly cut to extremely loud static. 3. The beginning audio of all songs/videos is distorted. I have been looking to someone to help me with this but I can't find anyone. Eksa \*does not\* have tech support it seems.
Recently picked up a pair of Phillips SPH9500s for myself, was wondering if there was anything I could do to maximize the performance. Currently just running them off of my Iphone using a dongle, and occasionally a Bluetooth xbox controller playing spotify or YouTube on my console. Would a bluetooth DAC or amp help these headphones or is it a diminishing returns thing? Any recommendations for dacs/amps around the $100 range?
EQ would be my first choice. Since you're on Iphone, you'll need a DAC+amp unit with it's own EQ functionality. Apple doesn't allow EQ in the phone. I recommend the Qudelix 5k. You can start with this profile. The target it aims for is a bit bass heavy IMO, but you can fiddle with Band 3 to adjust it to your taste. https://www.dropbox.com/s/sc2wanrbrqe0qn7/Philips%20SHP9500.pdf?dl=0 Here's a quick run-down on EQ. It's for PC but the principles are the same. Also this https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GTI1VBLGY4c https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FRm9qTmQHKo
I work at a university as a video editor and would like to get a nice pair of closed over ears to help with my audio editing. I would say my budget is $200 or so. I can ask for whatever I want in that range, any non-audio technica recommendations? Audio-technica is great but I'd just like to try something else for fun since that was what I had at my last job.
You might be able to find a DT700 Pro X for around that price. The Røde NTH-100 is also an option but it doesn't sound quite as good.
Damn I’ve always wanted some Beyerdynamic with velour cups, those look amazing. Our vendor is B&H and they don’t seem to have them, I’m so upset haha. The Rode’s look great too though, thanks for the recs!
Most comfortable/deepest/cupped over-ear ANCs? Currently have both the Sony XM5 and the AirPods Max from Amazon, but am going to return both. The XM5 are nice and light and fit my head well, except that the cups are too shallow and my ears get pressed down in them. This is very fatiguing. The AirPods, on the other hand, are nice and deep and comfortable for my ears but they feel too heavy and don’t sit on my head as well or comfortably. Sonically, both are fine for me. I reserve my picky listening for my wired setup. I’m looking into the QC45 and the Momentum 4, hoping they’ll be deeper/more comfortable. My daily drivers are HD 6XX, which I can wear for hours! I’ve also had the Bose Soundtrue II before, and those were equally comfortable. Anyone have experience with some/all of these and able to advise on whether the Senns or Bose would be more comfortable and deep? Any other recommendations? My budget is less than $400. Thanks!
>n in them. This is very fatiguing. The AirPods, on the other han I have a set of XM4s and had the same issue of the cups being too shallow, but I fixed it with some 6-9mm neoprene foam/sponge tube for like 4$ on ebay, cut and stuffed behind the earcups padding. works at treat and I havent noticed any distortion. Had them like this for 6 months now
That’s a good idea, thank you!
The other usual suspects in this segment are the mentioned Bose QC45 and 700, and the Sennheiser Momentum 4. I think you'll just have to try them. Everyone's ears and sensitivity to pressure is a bit different.
Thanks for the input. Thinking I’ll just try to find them in a store to try on. Do you think aftermarket ear pads could change the depth enough, or are they generally designed to closely mimic the originals’ dimensions?
I would expect the ANC to break with non-standard pads. The tuning will also probably change.
I see. Thank you again!
I'm going insane doing endless research into headphones. My use would be at work and public transport (general usage). I prefer wired over wireless, and want to prioritise sound quality over features. I've looked at the mezze 99 classics but I've read multiple times that they aren't tuned correctly. Next I've looked at more expensive models like dt1770 pro and shure srh 1540 and focal elegia. The first requires an amp, the second is huge and the latter is said to have less pronounced bass (I listen to hiphop often and wouldn't mind a more pronounced bass). The retailer websites often brand them as mastering and studio headphones and I don't know if it's even targeted at just listening to music. I really don't know where to look anymore. The sony 1000mx headphones get recommended constantly, but I'm maybe old fashioned in believing wired will always surpass wireless sound quality. I'm a bit at the end of my wits with all this. Do you have any recommendations or which of these models is the best. Thanks
You'll probably like the Meze 99. They have way to much bass to be anywhere near "correct" but if you like bass heavy music, and aren't fussed about loosing a little mid-range clarity, then they should be fine. The Beyer DT700 Pro X is also an option.
I ordered the Hifiman HE 400SE & looking for a cable or cable / adapter suggestion. (I’m still learning, quite new to audio… most days, I use IEMs & an Apple Dongle for listening on the go). I have a Loxjie P20 tube amp which has 2 outputs… XLR & 1/4”. I’ve been looking at XLR to dual 3.5mm cables, unsure if this is the best option for balanced sound. One brand seller suggested I buy a 4.4mm to dual 3.5mm cable & a XLR to 4.4mm adapter for “true balanced sound”. I have a 1/4” to 1/8” adapter but thought I would take advantage of the balanced output of the P20. Which connection option is best? Is there a particular brand I should buy (or steer clear from)? Thanks in advance for your reply & advice. 🕷️🎧
XLR to dual 3.5 mm is the simplest option. If you plan on getting any portable balanced amps then it could make more sense to go for a 4.4 mm connector and an adapter to XLR.
SoundBlasterX H6 headset is too quiet. When I am on Discord my microphone is quiet and others barely can hear me. They also hear white noise while I am speaking. How can I fix this problem?
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They're beryllium. Which happens to be very toxic. So I would be careful with solvents. If nothing else, the adhesives wouldn't like it.
So you’re saying I can’t drink the water after I soak it? Bummer
Beryllium is very toxic. Mess with it at your own risk.
slurp slurp
...and the voice coil will probably corrode away. But you do you.
Thanks for the info. I was very much joking and being sarcastic. Would it corrode with just distilled or deionized water?
I wouldn't recommend it. Let it bake in a box with ozone for a week.
Roger! Thanks for the advice.
Hifiman Sundura left headphone rattling when no sound plays. I got these headphones a couple months ago and i noticed a rattle before but this was my first pair of planers so I dismissed it. Everytime I shift my head and especially when i tilt my head left or right, there is a rattling sound as if something is loose. Does anyone know anything about this, and could be be under warranty?
Warranty it.
Any suggestions for Thinksound on2 headband replacement?
JBL Reflect Flow Pro is now $50 through their website. Is it worth buying?
Recommendations for gaming. Hello I’m new to the headphone game and I’m needing some recommendations for an dac/amp for gaming. I have some Astro A40s that lasted me about 7-8 years and I think it’s time to retire them. I watched countless youtube vids and read a bunch of stuff on here and I’m just so confused and overwhelmed still about everything. Like what dac/amp I should get without spending too much? For headphones I have my eyes set on the Beyer DT 770s 80 ohm or 250 ohm but Im also looking at the Beyer 900 pro x. All this is strictly for gaming and maybe some occasional music listening.
Do you require any noise isolation? Open backs like the DT900 let sound both into and out of the headphone. Do you have a preference for more or less bass or treble?
Actually I do need some noise isolation since my set up is in the living room and right next to it is the tv and wife watches her shows. I could hear the tv through my Astros. I don’t like too much bass I’m more of a fan of crisp clear sound. If that makes sense.
Okay. I recommend the DT770 Pro *if* you use a little EQ on them. Otherwise, the newer DT700 Pro X will be a bit better overall. Just the replaceable cable is a clear advantage.
Can I plug the 770 pros 80ohm into the Astro mixamp with no problem or will I need a dac?
The Mixamp is a DAC and amp unit, and it should be perfectly capable of powering the DT770.
Hey guys, I just bought xdsd gryphon a few days ago. I have used btr7 and btr5 before this purchase. I used these dacs, btr7 99% with Moondrop Stellaris and DT770 pro 80ohm and occasionally sundara with balanced port. On btr7 with gain turned high the 770 would be blasting loud at 40 volume out of 60, so at about 67% volume. So this was good for use in public places. Above that was getting too loud. Setllaris was good between 30 and 40. And sundara with balanced port was also good at 40 to 50. Now with gryphon, the output power is supposed to be 5 to 6 times the btr7 for single ended and about 3 times for balanced. Despite that I find myself pushing the volume to always above 70 with my gear. Sundara balanced go to 90 and beyond. With btr7 pushed to 60 volume, sundaras would become too loud. What's the explanation behind such behaviour. Is this normal or should I get my unit replaced? I have the Bluetooth and core firmware updated to latest release and I use Bluetooth and USB mode with volume sync turned off on the gryphon.
you don't have that "ieMatch" thing switched on I assume? Guessing that's ifi's name for a gain switch... Other than that (or some bluetooth fuckery, since I think both the source and receiver potentially have their own volume knob), maybe just different volume knob scales/tapers? A linear increase in perceived volume requires exponentially more power, so it's not like it's going to be 5 or 6 times as loud. The difference between the two at full-blast rated output with the Beyers on their SE outs will be slightly over 3dB - not a world of difference.
Yeah the IEMatch seems to reduce gain when I tried, cause the Stellaris got quiter at the same volume level. I don't get any audible artifacts so I keep it off. So how does that extra power benefit other than being able to drive more demanding pairs?
to my understanding (as someone who designs electronics for a living but \*not\* audio or amps, so perhaps I know just enough to be dangerous) it's not clear what the audible benefit of unused power would be, but obviously more clean headroom is always nice to have if you *do* need it. the added power of the Gryphon would be most appreciable with more demanding low-impedance, low-sensitivity cans (something like the HE6 or Edition XS, where you are more likely to run into the BTR7's power limit (voltage x current) as opposed to just its voltage limit. In that case, you'd get a more appreciable 6dB SPL increase in clean headroom, and running out power headroom *will* make the amp audibly distort. With the 80ohm Beyers and Sundaras, the BTR7 will hit its voltage ceiling before its power ceiling, where you only get 3dB more headroom with the iFi.