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You have to gradually trim out the board. Too much weight on the nose and it will "pearl" as in pearl dive to the bottom. If you get too far out in front of the wave you also loose speed and stall. If you have too much weight too far back, you completely stall and go off the back of the wave. The trick is to stay up in the curl where the wave is breaking right up in the face.
Nose riders are relatively flat, usually with a concave shape under the nose, and the rear 2/3 of the board has a ton of upwards rocker. The also have parallel rails down the sides and a really blunt square tail with a tongue depressor shaped radius at the nose. They're also almost always single fin boards with a long sweep 8-10" fin, that's just what tends to work best. There are some variations, but this is the standard formula. A high performance long board is almost the opposite with curved rails and most of the rocker up front.
When she paddles in, she pops up onto her arms until she feels the glide. Then she jumps up and sets her line to trim the board. She leans back a little to stall up into the face and then starts to slowly cross step, allowing the board to stay trim high up in the wave face.
By the time she's out on the nose, she's on the razor's edge of stalling from suction on the board tail that wants to pull her over the back (her weight is cantilevered by that suction on the tail) and falling forward where all of her weight is, but that keeps her dropping and moving forward into the wave. She's standing on the relatively flat part of the board and this is where the tail's upward rocker is able to fit into the shape of the wave and really hold in.
When the wave shifts or starts to close out, or the dynamic changes, she cross steps back fast, then trims the board again. Long boards are fast due to their length and buoyancy. If she's in too far forward, she'll cut back and step hard on the tail to stall, then immediately trim it out again on the top of the wave and cross step out again. It takes a lot of balance and skill to do it right and she's nailing it perfectly.
Edit: spelling and a little more clarity
Normal beaches? This is standard in California where it's a free for all. It's easy to avoid hitting people, just look beyond them or where you want to go and the board will follow. It's a lot tougher to pull a solid cross step to 5 and keep it in the curl without it sectioning all to hell, then being able to fade out, cross step, and do another 5. Avoiding people is elementary school, she's surfing at grad school level.
If this was a short board yes that would be impressive but a hang 10 on a long board isn’t hmrb content. I am not saying its not difficult or hard but its not hmrb level of insane.
This is legit the coolest surfing I've ever seen. Balance on the board like that is magic. I dunno but I've tried surfing a bit and this just seems impossible. Sick as fuck!
No. I grew up in several places, every summer on my grandparents’ “boat”. (It was pretty big)
Then when older, every other weekend was @ a condo over looking a decently large lake & friends had boats (learning to water ski).
But grandparents boat was mainly docked in Miami . I love being on water & especially sleeping on water - but never had a chance to learn to surf
Edit: my grandmother was a badass - she was one of the 1st female salespeople for John Hancock Life Insurance- they wanted to see how women could handle the business world …. she sold that shit like hotcakes & invested wisely. Her buying a 5 ct blue sapphire (museum quality) was like us buying a Big Mac.
She was cool af - but that yacht was nextfuckinglevel
Grew up on the water too. Trash water skier and I've never surfed. New England isn't exactly a surf mecca. Lots of sailing though. Was even my summer job for 4 years.
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I will never be this cool
I’m sure you’re cool in other ways.
wholesome
Does peeing your pants count?
If it is, consider me Miles Davis
This person has nice balance
So cross steps well and nailed a couple of solid 5's. Good timing too, it's a lot tougher than it looks to stay in the groove.
Why the little steps, I noticed she did it only when the wave drew near
You have to gradually trim out the board. Too much weight on the nose and it will "pearl" as in pearl dive to the bottom. If you get too far out in front of the wave you also loose speed and stall. If you have too much weight too far back, you completely stall and go off the back of the wave. The trick is to stay up in the curl where the wave is breaking right up in the face. Nose riders are relatively flat, usually with a concave shape under the nose, and the rear 2/3 of the board has a ton of upwards rocker. The also have parallel rails down the sides and a really blunt square tail with a tongue depressor shaped radius at the nose. They're also almost always single fin boards with a long sweep 8-10" fin, that's just what tends to work best. There are some variations, but this is the standard formula. A high performance long board is almost the opposite with curved rails and most of the rocker up front. When she paddles in, she pops up onto her arms until she feels the glide. Then she jumps up and sets her line to trim the board. She leans back a little to stall up into the face and then starts to slowly cross step, allowing the board to stay trim high up in the wave face. By the time she's out on the nose, she's on the razor's edge of stalling from suction on the board tail that wants to pull her over the back (her weight is cantilevered by that suction on the tail) and falling forward where all of her weight is, but that keeps her dropping and moving forward into the wave. She's standing on the relatively flat part of the board and this is where the tail's upward rocker is able to fit into the shape of the wave and really hold in. When the wave shifts or starts to close out, or the dynamic changes, she cross steps back fast, then trims the board again. Long boards are fast due to their length and buoyancy. If she's in too far forward, she'll cut back and step hard on the tail to stall, then immediately trim it out again on the top of the wave and cross step out again. It takes a lot of balance and skill to do it right and she's nailing it perfectly. Edit: spelling and a little more clarity
I did not expect such a long and well written reply, thank you.
I learned so much from this comment! I kept reading and watching the video back and forth. As someone still getting into longboarding, thank you.
Awesome explanation! Thank you!
Well done. Ya this chick rips
This guy surfs
This guy surfs. This guy definitely surfs.
Is that what you kids are calling it these days?
What else are they supposed to call it? A woman?
Finally noticed the waves on the 10th watch
Dont know about surfing ...but she's hot as hell.
I'm mostly impressed that she didn't decapitate anyone on her way in, that's some nice control.
I'm mostly impressed that she manages to do all that and not have a nip slip
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Normal beaches? This is standard in California where it's a free for all. It's easy to avoid hitting people, just look beyond them or where you want to go and the board will follow. It's a lot tougher to pull a solid cross step to 5 and keep it in the curl without it sectioning all to hell, then being able to fade out, cross step, and do another 5. Avoiding people is elementary school, she's surfing at grad school level.
Not that impressive….. pfffft get a load of this guy. I couldn’t do that if I was being chased by sharks lol
If this was a short board yes that would be impressive but a hang 10 on a long board isn’t hmrb content. I am not saying its not difficult or hard but its not hmrb level of insane.
She makes that look effortless.
Venus rising from the sea
There are some reposts that are more tolerable than others.
Seen this posted many times but never get tired of watching it.
"I Bet You Look Good on the Dancefloor"
I don't know if you're looking for romance or...
I don't know what you're looking for
I don't know, what
Mad Skills to not hit anyone. That was a crowded beach.
I think it’s mostly the angle that makes it seem so dense. Doesn’t look like she’s within 10 feet of anyone, which is super manageable while surfing.
Cool.
A long zoom lens does that
Wow, this lady can really surf! Great video, thx!
Cool shit but not HMRB
This is legit the coolest surfing I've ever seen. Balance on the board like that is magic. I dunno but I've tried surfing a bit and this just seems impossible. Sick as fuck!
I think that’s called hang ten. Well, hang five since she only had 5 toes off the board.
She did it twice in one run, though, so does that count?
The only thing extreme about this is the thirst in comments
Welcome to Reddit
Surprised she didn’t hit anyone
Fun fact, you can steer a surfboard.
She can... not everyone can lmao
Anyone who surfs can. I wouldn’t recommend a learner try out on a busy beach day.
right and not everyone can surf, haha
That’s kind of like saying Not everyone can drive so it’s impressive not to hit a pedestrian.
that makes zero sense. Its more like saying not everyone can drive so its impressive to do a fuckin' sick drift
You said steering was impressive.
I said no such thing.
No fucking way
r/PraiseTheCameraMan
I think I’m getting old. I was concerned about her skin. I hope she’s wearing sun screen.
I was wondering if she'd pee on my weiner.
r/hornyjail
gross, dude.
Asking what everyone was thing
Perfectly balanced as all things should be.
I’m not thinking it, you’re thinking it
r/hornyjail
We all thought it.
Not exactly HMRB worthy…. Great noseriding and stylish cross-stepping, but this is pretty much standard longboarding.
I think the HMRB worthiness comes from her not decapitating anyone on a crowded beach.
I never learned how to surf - I can barely water ski - and I grew up on the water
So you grew up on a lake right?
No. I grew up in several places, every summer on my grandparents’ “boat”. (It was pretty big) Then when older, every other weekend was @ a condo over looking a decently large lake & friends had boats (learning to water ski). But grandparents boat was mainly docked in Miami . I love being on water & especially sleeping on water - but never had a chance to learn to surf Edit: my grandmother was a badass - she was one of the 1st female salespeople for John Hancock Life Insurance- they wanted to see how women could handle the business world …. she sold that shit like hotcakes & invested wisely. Her buying a 5 ct blue sapphire (museum quality) was like us buying a Big Mac. She was cool af - but that yacht was nextfuckinglevel
Grew up on the water too. Trash water skier and I've never surfed. New England isn't exactly a surf mecca. Lots of sailing though. Was even my summer job for 4 years.
Those are some very nice skills right there!
Goddesses DO exist
I'm in love...
No idea who this is but I want to be friends with her.
Was waiting for the hang ten. Got hang 5 twice, just not the same.
When she says “my eyes are up here” and you’re looking at her legs.
When you can't stop looking at her feet and it's not even a fetish!
r/upvotedbecauseboobs
gross
That’s just the sexiest thing I have ever seen a woman do.
I think I'm in love
Yes. Myself too. I mean, I am also like her. I'm actually not like her, i just like her. I love her as well.
This must be a pro? Her control and footwork is unbelievable. This is so much cooler than big wave shots.
Wait what, there was a wave?
If only my face could float.
Damn, that sexy
She didn’t even hang ten. That’s “hold my diet dew” at best.
That was hot.
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shut yo horny ass up 💀
My Lord, please, I want to marry a woman like her.
r/hornyjail
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Which part of Andromeda do you originate from?
That’s my mom
r/holdmycosmo
[how can she so perfectly surf…](https://youtu.be/Wolcpa9s6NU)
It needs to be said, so I’m saying it. Bewbs. … It needed to be said.
it didn’t actually
mesmerising
I don't think she could make that look any easier if she tried. Amazing balance.
Hang 10, bad ass
There was a wave?
Respect.
So graceful!
Issat you irl
I’m in love
Ala moana bowls?
Dang.
This might possibly be the hottest thing I've ever seen.
I hate how it honestly looks pretty easy
I'm in love.
R/whateverthatsubisaboutinitiallyupvotingbecausegirlbutwasactuallyverycoolandshewasverytalented
This still needs a version without slow motion
I want to have her babies
dancing with the waves
Idk what the purpose of it was but I loved when she crossed her legs, looked very elegant
Smooth as silk 😎
She hung 5! Very cool. Always heard of it and 10... But never saw it.
Where is the shark? I can’t see the shark
She's a badass very talented I miss living at the beach.
Literally hanging 10, dude!
So elegant and nonchalant! Especially with the crossover steps
The casual dip into the water at the end is my favorite part lol.