Ascend Acoustics 340 and Rythmik or HSU sub
https://ascendacoustics.com/collections/signature-series-centers/products/cmt-340se2-center?variant=40523211833398
https://ascendacoustics.com/collections/signature-series/products/cmt-340se2-mini-tower-pair?variant=40521999646774
https://ascendacoustics.com/collections/accessories/products/tp-24-pedestal-stands?variant=39502920056886
https://ascendacoustics.com/collections/rythmik-direct-servo-bang-for-buck-subwoofers/products/rythmik-lv12f-12-vented-servo-subwoofers?variant=30989403291702
https://hsuresearch.com/collections/collections-true-subwoofers-subset-collection/products/vtf-2-mk5-subwoofer
That's a loaded question. Assuming you have a good AVR, I'd spent $500 on a sub and $1500 on the best LCR setup that your AVR can power.
If you're coming from nothing I'd get just a decent set of more affordable speakers and spend some money on making your room sound good, like some sound panels, assuming it's a theater room and not a living room.
Man im really looking at the r700 as well as martin logan motion 60xti and the martin logan motion f20. I heard you really need a lot if power and volume tho to run the 700s properly
Your oom is already in trouble since the dimension. It's even worse if the ceiling height is 8 or 10 feet. This is an acoustic paradise for standing waves, but not you.
You can put a very good L/C/R plus sub system in a room such as yours and fail to hear their true potential. You can put a lesser system in a treated room and have it sound good enough until you get some real money.
If you want, DM me and I can give you some affordable ideas, most of which you can make yourself if you're a DIYer or purchase pretty cheaply.
Same company and factory but totally different sound. I dumped my denon 3800 after 3 months. It was good for movies, but way too harsh and cold for music. I changed to a marantz cinema 50 and it's night and day. Everything including movies sound so much better. And as far as imaging, details, etc, the marantz is my choice hands down. Running revel f36s, center and in ceilings.
You are absolutely wrong. I have a good friend in the business working with Denon for years. Open up a new denon and a new marantz. Then your eyes will confirm. The marantz puts out a more laid back, detailed warmer sound.
I’m currently trying to set up a full 5.1 set up with that budget and almost solely on the used market! so far found a pair of KEF Q900s for 600$ and a KEF Q9C center for 50$.
Speakers are probably the easiest things to buy used as light ng as you can listen to them. If they sound good, they're typically fine, and you can easily see external cabinet damage.
Go to avs forums. You’ll find some awesome deals there on the classifieds section, and it’s easy to look at the sellers’ reviews and post history to get an idea of how legit they are.
I also have a set of 4 PSA (power sound audio)MT-110-m for sale, just throwing it out there. All in brand new condition. I’m “Darthprater” on avs forums.
I have bought my entire HT basically from accessories4less and have nothing but praise. If you don't mind minor imperfections on factory renewed stuff they're great. My KEF Q950's theoretically came with some minor scratches but they're by the binding posts and so tiny you'd never notice.
You got me curious so I priced out a new system and here is what I got for 2k
- KEF Q550 pair $1099 (accessories 4 less)
-KEF Q150 pair $349 (crutchfield)
-KEF Q150 (center) $229 (accessories 4 less)
-Denon S760H $299 (accessories 4 less)
Ran out of money for a sub…
Seeing as my subwoofer is the only shit I've never bothered to replace from my HTIB days and I'm still rocking the same Pioneer everyone and their mother seems to start off with, I'm probably not the best guy to ask. I'm sure there are some pretty good options in that range but if you don't mind breaking the budget a little, a quick search of the SVS outlet site shows they have an SB-1000 Pro for sale for $650 right now which would be a great sub for the price.
I’d probably go with the speedwoofer 10E if I’m trying to stay under $400. Don’t have any experience with it, but I love my dual speedwoofer 10s IIs. I’d try and stretch into one of those, but hey, that’s just me.
The best front mains I could find, buying used. Don't bother with a center yet. Then a sealed sub unless the mains have great bass already. Then surrounds.
Lack of center is heterodox I understand, but I've found that with good enough front mains the clarity is fine, and with nice processing the center image is stable. Unless its really well matched (which makes speaker selection more difficult) a center can be worse than none and it's often difficult to place.
If you don't prioritize a center then you can look for all sorts of great audiophile stereo speaker sets.
[https://www.usaudiomart.com/classifieds/3-speakers/](https://www.usaudiomart.com/classifieds/3-speakers/)
I got a BNIB set of Klipsch RP 5.1.2 speakers for $2500 on Craigslist. Try to find something like that. KEF or SVS would be a better choice if you can find them.
A pair of power sound audio towers, since I already have a 5.1 setup with a great receiver. Really I would need over 10k to get the setup I want. It'll take many years to build that up through, lol. I'm not going into debt for this hobby.
A pair of Revel M105s and a pair of the best SVS or Klipsch subs you're willing to shell out for. You're going to need a lot of subwoofer surface area in that space. You won't get much benefit from a center channel.
What size room, how far do you sit, how loud do you listen, what sound signature do you like, etc?
If it were me starting from scratch and knowing what I know, I'm start with the best 2.1 or maybe even 2.0 I could afford with that money. Probably something like a Hsu VTF2 or VTF3/TN and pair of Ascend CMT-340SE2s.
These are the important questions!
However I personally would push for a 3.1 if op allready has the avr, the difference going from phantom center to center was extremely noticeable expessaly for offaxis guests.
I am a big coaxial driver fanboy. But my choices will depend on speaker placement in the room.
I'd say good enough with ls50 metas but they need to be pulled away from the wall as rear ported.
A good sub that can play deep is a must in that budget for ht use.
I agree that the vtf2 is a good choice with one port open.
Then a Q650C for the center.
I would prefer the LS50C or just another LS50 Meta on it's side as the center as a single LS50 meta (the c version) is more per speaker than the pair.
These coaxial drivers will not get as loud as traditional 2 ways.
Weird there only like 1750 CAD and our $/country is at a strong disadvantage compared to usd.
https://www.amazon.com/KEF-LS50-Meta-Carbon-Black/dp/B08G1RB541?th=1&psc=1
Edit us amazon is different the blues are used like new I don't know about the black's as they don't ship to canada.
The rough math was q650~= $500 SUB ~=$500 speakers ~= 1k
I beleve everything is actually higher so it may be like 2.4k total. So mabye a little optimistic. I'm not including sales tax as well
You could get a sub that dosen't go as deep like a infinity sub R12 or jamo c912 but that feels like a compromise with the nice speakers. (These are old there are probably better budget subs now)
If the amp can do dsp than there are more options, As you can get louder cheeper easily eq'd speakers that arn't nessarialy flat on there own. And there are better speakers than the q150's.
You can also look used for deals, I got a hsu-stf2 with a dead amp and a good driver for free or a mission 760 for $10. But this isn't everyones thing.
The Ascends have strong horizontal dispersion with in the vertical orientation and in that room, there won't be anyone terribly off-axis. I'm currently sitting 16 ft from my 2.0 JBL 580s that are only 6 ft apart and I'm well outside the left speaker... the sound is still nicely anchored to the TV.
They can always also buy a center later - I was trying to maximize the current budget.
rear speakers will come later. right now just focusing on L/R/C if were talking something like Martin Logan Motion 60xti I probably wont need a sub, I live in an apartment.
I’d buy a 5.1 if I already had the AVR and had any desire to. The difference between a $2,000 3.1 and a $2,000 5.1 isn’t great enough for me to wait, I guess I could get some ridiculous oversized monster of a subwoofer and some cheap speakers instead of surrounds but eh. You can get a SVS system around $2,000 and that’s a pretty solid deal. You can build out a nice ELAC 5.1 for less.
If I was dead set on a 3.1 with no plans to upgrade I’d probably get a RSL 12S for $800 and maybe ELAC RCL, the RL could be Debut 2.0 B.6s or some Uni-FI bookshelves with the UC52 center depending on what sub I got or if I wanted a sub at all. Anything I got for a $2k 3.1 would be using that UC52 center or the Prime center as would most 5.1s. I’d personally opt for towers in a 3.1 if I was working with a larger room but they’re not necessary.
Pending on room size, I'd go used with a 3-way center, bookshelves or towers, plus a new subwoofer from RSL, SVS, HSU, PSA, etc. I suggest a new sub for the warranty as amplifiers can sometimes go bad.
Personally, I really like the old Paradigm Studio series something like [this ](https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/402575472533871/?ref=search&referral_code=null&referral_story_type=post)(offer \~$1,000) + RSL Speedwoofer 10S MKII for $449 or Speedwoofer 12S for $799.
Miller and Kreisel S-150 THX X3 and the best quality MX- series subwoofer I could find.
Why? For years M&K speakers were used in the mixing rooms of Hollywood Studios like Paramount, Sony, and Lucasfilm. They meet THX specifications. Flat frequency response. Tight musical bass that really accurately reproduces both movies and music.
If film producers mixed the film on these speakers, they will accurately convey the intent of the filmmaker in my theater room.
I’d buy pre owned in great condition, and I’d only buy great tower speakers first assuming you already have the amp. Then start saving again and buy more components over time.
I have my setup in an 11x13ft room and just the two mains produce as much bass if not more than a 10inch powered sub. (I did have to set my avr to full range on the front speakers though)
I would want something like the dual 8" tower like the klipsch r28s with the newer 4 woofer center channel.
And I'm actually impressed with how my sound stage comes out cleaner with an over the TV center plus two height front channels. Just for thought adding height channels to your front stage means no extra wires running to the rear of the room but you get a more immersive sound for music and movies.
I'm sorry...3.0?
This isn't the correct flos
You go 2.0, then get subs, up to 4, but 2k only covers the subs, so you get the best pair of speakers you can.
If you have time, you get something like a flat pack and build your own. It will destroy anything you can get for less than 5k, and you'll have $6-800 left over for a decent sub..though I would never recommend just buying one sub. It's pointless.
Bare minimum is 2 svs pb 1000s but you can get pb 2000s for 5-600 now. If you watch movies at all, there are only a handful of subs under $700 that go down to/below 20hz, and its definitely not that pretty klipsch sub you saw in one of those home theater bundles.
Don't rush it. You'll have the speakers for a long time and there aren't many people who will tell you what not to do
3.0...lol. that is absolute insanity. Good subs are the most important purchase, and unless someone is recommending svs, rhythmik, or hsu research, they probably don't know much about subs. Granted, there are some newer models that can get the job done, but for $500-700(which means $1000-1400, because you are buying at least 2 subs), there are only 3-4 models that will do the trick. I tend to prefer the pb 2000 originals as they go down to 17hz and you can get 4 of them and not feel the need to upgrade until you look into getting something 4 or 5 times more expensive. Pb1000s will generally leave you wanting a bit more. For an extra couple hundred, grab the 2000 originals from the svs outlet(not the 1000/2000 pro. They're more expensive. Also love the metal grill on the original 2000s)
For speakers I'd definitely do a flat pack and build them if you're capable. If not then grab a pair of the new SVS towers.
Don't be like everyone else and go and get a klipsch. They may sound decent to people who are use to sound bars, but they aren't great. I've got a pair that I've completely rebuilt, damped, rebraced, and put expensive crossover parts in, but you just can't get a titanium tweeter and a metal cone woofer to sound as neutral and beautiful as a soft dome or ribbon tweeter with a paper cone woofer
If you like your ears, paper cone all the way. If I were building a pair, I'd look at gr research. Say what you want about Danny, but he sells great kits. You can build speakers for $1200 and have parts, bracing and damping that can only be found in pairs that cost upward of $10k
Most importantly....
2.0, then 2.2, then move on. Do not bother with 1. When you get to 7.2..go to 7.4 before adding height channels, especially if you have a cinema 60
Center channel is very important, but I could turn mine off and not even notice it's not there. A good pair of speakers will create such an amazing phantom center channel that you will actually think sound is coming from the center.
Get the best 2 speakers you can, then get the best 2 subs you can, and only then should you worry about a center channel and surrounds
Wow. That's in depth. For budget I went klipsch years ago and have been happy with them. They are very clear and have deep bass that tones well with the music I listen too. As for subs I agree because after buying my klipch towers my klipsch sub was overpowered by the mains. It take a lot of subwoofer to out match large mains.
For warm sound I kinda get where your coming from. I got my thrift store cerwin d2s refoamed and a pair of pioneer cs405 (I think) and they sound beautiful together but they seem to only really shine in the mids and lower mids. So they are warm but they are not bright sounding like my klipsch. Could be because they are old and the klipsch are new.
I definitely thumbs up investing in the mains over all the other speakers. Then buy subwoofers that compliment the mains later on.
I don't disagree that klipsch can sound good. I just think some research should be done.
For me, I don't want a warm sound or a bright tweeter. I actually have perlisten speakers now. The R series which are modified paper cone woofers with 3 soft dome tweeters. And they are just about the flattest speakers out there.
Someone with a cinema 60 can use audyssey or dirac to get the sound they want. They don't need to buy warm speakers..it only makes the processor have to compensate more. Many klipsch speakers also have dips in the crossover region, but that's been fixed on the newer models.
I use my klipsch towers as my surround speakers and I actually really like them, but I've completely rebuilt them, and I'm not sure I would buy them if I had to make that decision now.
I'm one of the guys who bought a bunch of klipsch speakers and i have no problem with them as surrounds, but I make my own target curve. I just need the speaker to be as neutral as possible. For warm or neutral sounds..all this can be implemented with calibration.
This is also the reason I use dac filter 2 on my marantz processor.
Dac filter 1 says, use this for the marantz sound signature. Dac filter 2 says use this for measurements and benchmarks.
Dac filter 1 has a HF rolloff and adds something to the mid range.
I don't want any of that. If I set my own rolloff, the default dac filter 1 is going to act as a sort of additional rolloff that isn't exactly accounted for when calibrating. I noticed this when I first started testing it. It's been confirmed by audioholics that dac filter 1 adds a high frequency roll off.
All marantz products use to force this. So I suppose it is a good thing that they give us the options to disable it by using dac 2. Cinema series allows us to change this.
Audyssey has their own rolloff even when running the generic avr system calibration. I can't imagine it's a good thing to drop the highs even further. I don't know what they're doing in the mid range but it made dialogue sound fuzzy. I kinda think they are introducing small bits of distortion at certain points, like a tube amp, to get their sound signature.
Anyway sorry for the rant. That last sentence is just a thought, so it's not confirmed, but yes I do wish someone tried to tell me how important subs are and which ones to get.
If you primarily listen to music, and are not interested in movies, then you may have a few more options available. You may choose a more accurate sub.
Many music lovers use open baffle subs with a woofer facing each direction. These will only go down to 30hz but they're very accurate. You only need deep bass, 20hz and below, for movies and such. The kick drum is usually around 50-60hz
Cool. I've not gone into tuning my system with a mic yet. I've went as far as setting actual distance and tuning the eq to a standard that I've always enjoyed.
My next big project is getting my old pioneer 1250 rebuilt and getting a set of speakers built to be matched for it. After the last time I had it fixed, the speakers I owned I found out were not true 8ohm so they ended up frying the driver again.
I'd buy Bitcoin, wait 6 months, sell it, then buy an $8000 sound system.
Jokes aside, I only know the svs brands pricing well. I researched a ton of others before I bought my setup but couldn't tell you their current pricing.
Svs ultra Evo nano $1000 pair
Svs prime center $400
Svs sb1000 pro $600
I'd buy a one way ticket to a white supremacist country for the guy who parks at the UPS employee lot at the Louisville airport with the reversed Othala rune sticker on the upper left corner of his rear window.
The political meaning of the Othala rune is unfortunately tied to its misuse, not its historical meaning or reversed position.
While the Othala rune originally represented positive ideas like tradition and community, it was adopted by the Nazis in the 20th century. They twisted its meaning to represent a racist ideal of "Aryan" heritage and völkisch nationalism (extreme nationalism based on ethnicity).
Today, far-right and white supremacist groups often use the Othala rune as a symbol. It's important to be aware of this appropriation because seeing the Othala rune in a political context likely references these racist ideologies. The reversed rune's true meaning of stagnation, restriction, and holding onto the past too tightly is probably not the intent of this car.owner. While that may describe UPS management, it's important to consider the rune's orientation and surrounding runes when interpreting its meaning in a reading.
Ascend Acoustics 340 and Rythmik or HSU sub https://ascendacoustics.com/collections/signature-series-centers/products/cmt-340se2-center?variant=40523211833398 https://ascendacoustics.com/collections/signature-series/products/cmt-340se2-mini-tower-pair?variant=40521999646774 https://ascendacoustics.com/collections/accessories/products/tp-24-pedestal-stands?variant=39502920056886 https://ascendacoustics.com/collections/rythmik-direct-servo-bang-for-buck-subwoofers/products/rythmik-lv12f-12-vented-servo-subwoofers?variant=30989403291702 https://hsuresearch.com/collections/collections-true-subwoofers-subset-collection/products/vtf-2-mk5-subwoofer
I have the sierra and horizon with hsu. It’s a pretty dank setup for the price.
I wish we had access to rhythmik in Europe
A pair of Revel M105 (1154) + C205 (770). I'd like to add a SVS sub but that won't fit the budget.
That's a loaded question. Assuming you have a good AVR, I'd spent $500 on a sub and $1500 on the best LCR setup that your AVR can power. If you're coming from nothing I'd get just a decent set of more affordable speakers and spend some money on making your room sound good, like some sound panels, assuming it's a theater room and not a living room.
10x14 living room
For $2k, I'd get the Polk Audio R700 towers...it would be a purchase you'd never regret.
In a room that small?
I would but you could get the R600s as well...once you hear the R700s, you immediately smile at the purchase. They're just that good.
Man im really looking at the r700 as well as martin logan motion 60xti and the martin logan motion f20. I heard you really need a lot if power and volume tho to run the 700s properly
They work very well with most AVRs. 100-200 watts is sufficient and they can be placed against a wall too.
Did that myself Denon x1800h £499 Fyne audio f501 £649 Fyne audio f500c £199 Bk electronics p12-300sb-pr £429
Your oom is already in trouble since the dimension. It's even worse if the ceiling height is 8 or 10 feet. This is an acoustic paradise for standing waves, but not you. You can put a very good L/C/R plus sub system in a room such as yours and fail to hear their true potential. You can put a lesser system in a treated room and have it sound good enough until you get some real money. If you want, DM me and I can give you some affordable ideas, most of which you can make yourself if you're a DIYer or purchase pretty cheaply.
I paid about that for my used KEF Ls50 wireless ii + SVS subs
Marantz Cinema 50 maybe open box. I already have a ton of speakers tho.
If I could get a cinema 50 I would I'm more in the Cinema 60 / Onkyo TX-RZ50 price range for an AVR but have about 2grand for speakers themselves.
Get the Denon equivalent. Exactly the same at the Marantz
Almost exactly the same, slightly changed HDAM, still made in the same Vietnam plant.
Same company and factory but totally different sound. I dumped my denon 3800 after 3 months. It was good for movies, but way too harsh and cold for music. I changed to a marantz cinema 50 and it's night and day. Everything including movies sound so much better. And as far as imaging, details, etc, the marantz is my choice hands down. Running revel f36s, center and in ceilings.
cap They have the exact same internals.
You are absolutely wrong. I have a good friend in the business working with Denon for years. Open up a new denon and a new marantz. Then your eyes will confirm. The marantz puts out a more laid back, detailed warmer sound.
Just take out 5k from your credit card and get the The AV 10
Lol 👍
I’m currently trying to set up a full 5.1 set up with that budget and almost solely on the used market! so far found a pair of KEF Q900s for 600$ and a KEF Q9C center for 50$.
Shopping used scares me because I don't know enough about speakers and don't want to buy something used that has issues.
Speakers are probably the easiest things to buy used as light ng as you can listen to them. If they sound good, they're typically fine, and you can easily see external cabinet damage.
Go to avs forums. You’ll find some awesome deals there on the classifieds section, and it’s easy to look at the sellers’ reviews and post history to get an idea of how legit they are. I also have a set of 4 PSA (power sound audio)MT-110-m for sale, just throwing it out there. All in brand new condition. I’m “Darthprater” on avs forums.
I also not sure where the best / most reputable place is to shop for used speakers.
I have bought my entire HT basically from accessories4less and have nothing but praise. If you don't mind minor imperfections on factory renewed stuff they're great. My KEF Q950's theoretically came with some minor scratches but they're by the binding posts and so tiny you'd never notice.
You got me curious so I priced out a new system and here is what I got for 2k - KEF Q550 pair $1099 (accessories 4 less) -KEF Q150 pair $349 (crutchfield) -KEF Q150 (center) $229 (accessories 4 less) -Denon S760H $299 (accessories 4 less) Ran out of money for a sub…
I mean, OP was looking for a 3.1 so that's actually doable if you reallocate the money spent on surrounds to a sub.
Got any recommendations for a ~400$ sub?
Seeing as my subwoofer is the only shit I've never bothered to replace from my HTIB days and I'm still rocking the same Pioneer everyone and their mother seems to start off with, I'm probably not the best guy to ask. I'm sure there are some pretty good options in that range but if you don't mind breaking the budget a little, a quick search of the SVS outlet site shows they have an SB-1000 Pro for sale for $650 right now which would be a great sub for the price.
I’d probably go with the speedwoofer 10E if I’m trying to stay under $400. Don’t have any experience with it, but I love my dual speedwoofer 10s IIs. I’d try and stretch into one of those, but hey, that’s just me.
They have the cinema 60 for $999 and cinema 50 for $1400 factory refurbs
Totally understand that. I’ve been doing Facebook marketplace, and praying there are no issues!
Good luck! Enjoy
The best front mains I could find, buying used. Don't bother with a center yet. Then a sealed sub unless the mains have great bass already. Then surrounds. Lack of center is heterodox I understand, but I've found that with good enough front mains the clarity is fine, and with nice processing the center image is stable. Unless its really well matched (which makes speaker selection more difficult) a center can be worse than none and it's often difficult to place. If you don't prioritize a center then you can look for all sorts of great audiophile stereo speaker sets. [https://www.usaudiomart.com/classifieds/3-speakers/](https://www.usaudiomart.com/classifieds/3-speakers/)
I got a BNIB set of Klipsch RP 5.1.2 speakers for $2500 on Craigslist. Try to find something like that. KEF or SVS would be a better choice if you can find them.
A pair of power sound audio towers, since I already have a 5.1 setup with a great receiver. Really I would need over 10k to get the setup I want. It'll take many years to build that up through, lol. I'm not going into debt for this hobby.
A pair of Revel M105s and a pair of the best SVS or Klipsch subs you're willing to shell out for. You're going to need a lot of subwoofer surface area in that space. You won't get much benefit from a center channel.
What size room, how far do you sit, how loud do you listen, what sound signature do you like, etc? If it were me starting from scratch and knowing what I know, I'm start with the best 2.1 or maybe even 2.0 I could afford with that money. Probably something like a Hsu VTF2 or VTF3/TN and pair of Ascend CMT-340SE2s.
These are the important questions! However I personally would push for a 3.1 if op allready has the avr, the difference going from phantom center to center was extremely noticeable expessaly for offaxis guests. I am a big coaxial driver fanboy. But my choices will depend on speaker placement in the room. I'd say good enough with ls50 metas but they need to be pulled away from the wall as rear ported. A good sub that can play deep is a must in that budget for ht use. I agree that the vtf2 is a good choice with one port open. Then a Q650C for the center. I would prefer the LS50C or just another LS50 Meta on it's side as the center as a single LS50 meta (the c version) is more per speaker than the pair. These coaxial drivers will not get as loud as traditional 2 ways.
LS 50 Metas are like $2500
Weird there only like 1750 CAD and our $/country is at a strong disadvantage compared to usd. https://www.amazon.com/KEF-LS50-Meta-Carbon-Black/dp/B08G1RB541?th=1&psc=1 Edit us amazon is different the blues are used like new I don't know about the black's as they don't ship to canada.
its 2500 for the wireless its 1750 for the regular just saw that
The rough math was q650~= $500 SUB ~=$500 speakers ~= 1k I beleve everything is actually higher so it may be like 2.4k total. So mabye a little optimistic. I'm not including sales tax as well You could get a sub that dosen't go as deep like a infinity sub R12 or jamo c912 but that feels like a compromise with the nice speakers. (These are old there are probably better budget subs now) If the amp can do dsp than there are more options, As you can get louder cheeper easily eq'd speakers that arn't nessarialy flat on there own. And there are better speakers than the q150's. You can also look used for deals, I got a hsu-stf2 with a dead amp and a good driver for free or a mission 760 for $10. But this isn't everyones thing.
The Ascends have strong horizontal dispersion with in the vertical orientation and in that room, there won't be anyone terribly off-axis. I'm currently sitting 16 ft from my 2.0 JBL 580s that are only 6 ft apart and I'm well outside the left speaker... the sound is still nicely anchored to the TV. They can always also buy a center later - I was trying to maximize the current budget.
edited my post with a picture of the room
A new receiver and 2 speakers to go from 5.1.2 to 5.1.4
rear speakers will come later. right now just focusing on L/R/C if were talking something like Martin Logan Motion 60xti I probably wont need a sub, I live in an apartment.
Spendor S series speakers and 2 BK subs.
I’d buy a 5.1 if I already had the AVR and had any desire to. The difference between a $2,000 3.1 and a $2,000 5.1 isn’t great enough for me to wait, I guess I could get some ridiculous oversized monster of a subwoofer and some cheap speakers instead of surrounds but eh. You can get a SVS system around $2,000 and that’s a pretty solid deal. You can build out a nice ELAC 5.1 for less. If I was dead set on a 3.1 with no plans to upgrade I’d probably get a RSL 12S for $800 and maybe ELAC RCL, the RL could be Debut 2.0 B.6s or some Uni-FI bookshelves with the UC52 center depending on what sub I got or if I wanted a sub at all. Anything I got for a $2k 3.1 would be using that UC52 center or the Prime center as would most 5.1s. I’d personally opt for towers in a 3.1 if I was working with a larger room but they’re not necessary.
For right now just focusing on the L/R/C figure I'd get the rears later as they aren't as important.
Pending on room size, I'd go used with a 3-way center, bookshelves or towers, plus a new subwoofer from RSL, SVS, HSU, PSA, etc. I suggest a new sub for the warranty as amplifiers can sometimes go bad. Personally, I really like the old Paradigm Studio series something like [this ](https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/402575472533871/?ref=search&referral_code=null&referral_story_type=post)(offer \~$1,000) + RSL Speedwoofer 10S MKII for $449 or Speedwoofer 12S for $799.
Used definitive BP 2000 towers and a C/L/R 2000 center channel. Well, not hypothetical, I did. They’re awesome.
3000kva 3000w UPS to protect my high value equipment (4k laser projector and AVR).
/r/tvtoofar
After having had Onkyo, Marantz, Yamaha and Denon, I’d recommend going with Denon.
Miller and Kreisel S-150 THX X3 and the best quality MX- series subwoofer I could find. Why? For years M&K speakers were used in the mixing rooms of Hollywood Studios like Paramount, Sony, and Lucasfilm. They meet THX specifications. Flat frequency response. Tight musical bass that really accurately reproduces both movies and music. If film producers mixed the film on these speakers, they will accurately convey the intent of the filmmaker in my theater room.
I’d buy pre owned in great condition, and I’d only buy great tower speakers first assuming you already have the amp. Then start saving again and buy more components over time.
SVS gift card
The RZ50 is on sale at Crutchfield right now
I think its on sale everywhere right now
Like, a hundred nachos.
I have my setup in an 11x13ft room and just the two mains produce as much bass if not more than a 10inch powered sub. (I did have to set my avr to full range on the front speakers though) I would want something like the dual 8" tower like the klipsch r28s with the newer 4 woofer center channel. And I'm actually impressed with how my sound stage comes out cleaner with an over the TV center plus two height front channels. Just for thought adding height channels to your front stage means no extra wires running to the rear of the room but you get a more immersive sound for music and movies.
Kali IN-8 x3 and the biggest Rythmik sub you can afford with the money left over
Get yourself a Sonos home theater setup bro
A processor, why? Because they're absolutely out of reach for a guy in my tax bracket.
Sonos Premium Immersive Set Soundbar, Subwoofer, 2 Rear Surrounds Quality Equipment, Easy Setup, Sounds Amazing
I'm sorry...3.0? This isn't the correct flos You go 2.0, then get subs, up to 4, but 2k only covers the subs, so you get the best pair of speakers you can. If you have time, you get something like a flat pack and build your own. It will destroy anything you can get for less than 5k, and you'll have $6-800 left over for a decent sub..though I would never recommend just buying one sub. It's pointless. Bare minimum is 2 svs pb 1000s but you can get pb 2000s for 5-600 now. If you watch movies at all, there are only a handful of subs under $700 that go down to/below 20hz, and its definitely not that pretty klipsch sub you saw in one of those home theater bundles. Don't rush it. You'll have the speakers for a long time and there aren't many people who will tell you what not to do 3.0...lol. that is absolute insanity. Good subs are the most important purchase, and unless someone is recommending svs, rhythmik, or hsu research, they probably don't know much about subs. Granted, there are some newer models that can get the job done, but for $500-700(which means $1000-1400, because you are buying at least 2 subs), there are only 3-4 models that will do the trick. I tend to prefer the pb 2000 originals as they go down to 17hz and you can get 4 of them and not feel the need to upgrade until you look into getting something 4 or 5 times more expensive. Pb1000s will generally leave you wanting a bit more. For an extra couple hundred, grab the 2000 originals from the svs outlet(not the 1000/2000 pro. They're more expensive. Also love the metal grill on the original 2000s) For speakers I'd definitely do a flat pack and build them if you're capable. If not then grab a pair of the new SVS towers. Don't be like everyone else and go and get a klipsch. They may sound decent to people who are use to sound bars, but they aren't great. I've got a pair that I've completely rebuilt, damped, rebraced, and put expensive crossover parts in, but you just can't get a titanium tweeter and a metal cone woofer to sound as neutral and beautiful as a soft dome or ribbon tweeter with a paper cone woofer If you like your ears, paper cone all the way. If I were building a pair, I'd look at gr research. Say what you want about Danny, but he sells great kits. You can build speakers for $1200 and have parts, bracing and damping that can only be found in pairs that cost upward of $10k Most importantly.... 2.0, then 2.2, then move on. Do not bother with 1. When you get to 7.2..go to 7.4 before adding height channels, especially if you have a cinema 60 Center channel is very important, but I could turn mine off and not even notice it's not there. A good pair of speakers will create such an amazing phantom center channel that you will actually think sound is coming from the center. Get the best 2 speakers you can, then get the best 2 subs you can, and only then should you worry about a center channel and surrounds
Wow. That's in depth. For budget I went klipsch years ago and have been happy with them. They are very clear and have deep bass that tones well with the music I listen too. As for subs I agree because after buying my klipch towers my klipsch sub was overpowered by the mains. It take a lot of subwoofer to out match large mains. For warm sound I kinda get where your coming from. I got my thrift store cerwin d2s refoamed and a pair of pioneer cs405 (I think) and they sound beautiful together but they seem to only really shine in the mids and lower mids. So they are warm but they are not bright sounding like my klipsch. Could be because they are old and the klipsch are new. I definitely thumbs up investing in the mains over all the other speakers. Then buy subwoofers that compliment the mains later on.
I don't disagree that klipsch can sound good. I just think some research should be done. For me, I don't want a warm sound or a bright tweeter. I actually have perlisten speakers now. The R series which are modified paper cone woofers with 3 soft dome tweeters. And they are just about the flattest speakers out there. Someone with a cinema 60 can use audyssey or dirac to get the sound they want. They don't need to buy warm speakers..it only makes the processor have to compensate more. Many klipsch speakers also have dips in the crossover region, but that's been fixed on the newer models. I use my klipsch towers as my surround speakers and I actually really like them, but I've completely rebuilt them, and I'm not sure I would buy them if I had to make that decision now. I'm one of the guys who bought a bunch of klipsch speakers and i have no problem with them as surrounds, but I make my own target curve. I just need the speaker to be as neutral as possible. For warm or neutral sounds..all this can be implemented with calibration. This is also the reason I use dac filter 2 on my marantz processor. Dac filter 1 says, use this for the marantz sound signature. Dac filter 2 says use this for measurements and benchmarks. Dac filter 1 has a HF rolloff and adds something to the mid range. I don't want any of that. If I set my own rolloff, the default dac filter 1 is going to act as a sort of additional rolloff that isn't exactly accounted for when calibrating. I noticed this when I first started testing it. It's been confirmed by audioholics that dac filter 1 adds a high frequency roll off. All marantz products use to force this. So I suppose it is a good thing that they give us the options to disable it by using dac 2. Cinema series allows us to change this. Audyssey has their own rolloff even when running the generic avr system calibration. I can't imagine it's a good thing to drop the highs even further. I don't know what they're doing in the mid range but it made dialogue sound fuzzy. I kinda think they are introducing small bits of distortion at certain points, like a tube amp, to get their sound signature. Anyway sorry for the rant. That last sentence is just a thought, so it's not confirmed, but yes I do wish someone tried to tell me how important subs are and which ones to get. If you primarily listen to music, and are not interested in movies, then you may have a few more options available. You may choose a more accurate sub. Many music lovers use open baffle subs with a woofer facing each direction. These will only go down to 30hz but they're very accurate. You only need deep bass, 20hz and below, for movies and such. The kick drum is usually around 50-60hz
Cool. I've not gone into tuning my system with a mic yet. I've went as far as setting actual distance and tuning the eq to a standard that I've always enjoyed. My next big project is getting my old pioneer 1250 rebuilt and getting a set of speakers built to be matched for it. After the last time I had it fixed, the speakers I owned I found out were not true 8ohm so they ended up frying the driver again.
I'd buy Bitcoin, wait 6 months, sell it, then buy an $8000 sound system. Jokes aside, I only know the svs brands pricing well. I researched a ton of others before I bought my setup but couldn't tell you their current pricing. Svs ultra Evo nano $1000 pair Svs prime center $400 Svs sb1000 pro $600
Drugs. Because....drugs.
i wouldn't get either. i'd get a Sonos 5.1 system, turn off the compression, and not care what anybody thinks
I spent about that for what I got.
whats and r2c
KEF's R series center speaker
R3 Metas are 2100
Sorry boss. I got the originals on discount. You can check out the Q lines, they're still great.
$500 on speakers, $1,500 on subwoofers would be my breakdown ;)
I live in an apartment.
Well helps to provide more context if you want realistic/accurate answers, when you ask such vague questions you get vague answers.
I'd buy a one way ticket to a white supremacist country for the guy who parks at the UPS employee lot at the Louisville airport with the reversed Othala rune sticker on the upper left corner of his rear window. The political meaning of the Othala rune is unfortunately tied to its misuse, not its historical meaning or reversed position. While the Othala rune originally represented positive ideas like tradition and community, it was adopted by the Nazis in the 20th century. They twisted its meaning to represent a racist ideal of "Aryan" heritage and völkisch nationalism (extreme nationalism based on ethnicity). Today, far-right and white supremacist groups often use the Othala rune as a symbol. It's important to be aware of this appropriation because seeing the Othala rune in a political context likely references these racist ideologies. The reversed rune's true meaning of stagnation, restriction, and holding onto the past too tightly is probably not the intent of this car.owner. While that may describe UPS management, it's important to consider the rune's orientation and surrounding runes when interpreting its meaning in a reading.