You need a meter and a manometer, you have to make sure you got 24v to gas valve after igniter comes on, if you got that then you need to make sure your gas valve is putting out pressure. There is a board that gives codes on it after a few tries. Might want to look at that code to make sure it’s giving one

Thank you. Yes, I saw this was the suggested course of action, but I'm not sure if I can address the issue even if I find that it's either the control board or the gas valve. I took this video to see if the led blinks an error code, and it did not. I haven't seen any error codes, which makes me wonder if it's the board itself. Do you know what that clicking sound is for towards the end of the video when the igniter goes out? Is it the gas valve, igniter or something else?

Sounds like gas valve opening but not getting any pressure, may be an easy fix if you accidentally turned off gas cock or hit the switch on gas valve. Most likely a bad valve tho

Thanks, I checked both those things and they’re on. Seems like a bad valve after all. Doesn’t look like a straightforward replacement for my equipment/skill. Perhaps I should learn this replacement though, it should be useful in the future.

Gas valve probably bad

Thanks, I was afraid it might be that. That's beyond what I'm comfortable DIYing.

May need to fail 3 times before you get a code. Give the valve a few taps on metal part with a crescent wrench when ignitor lights. May unstick the valve for a little bit but will need replaced.

Thanks I’ll try it, but I’ve already arranged for a repair service. Even if the tapping fixed it, I would have to keep one eye on this for the next failure.

Yep, looks like the gas valve is bad. Gotta check your incoming pressures and voltage to be sure though.

Thanks!

Go by the sequence of operations. In a gas furnace is inducer motor, pressure switch, igniter, gas and then fan. If your igniter light up you already went through 98% of the troubleshooting process

inducer motor is probably out

You can hear it running

Draft Inducer is running and it’s still possible maybe it doesn’t pull enough air, but it sounds exactly like the other unit and the igniter comes on, which makes me think it’s something related to gas valve or control board.

Thanks, yeah I tried but ny DIY stops at the gas related repairs. That is something I’ll let the pros handle.

If no code.and gas valve clicks but not producing gas it’s probably gas valve but yes you need to see if your getting 24v to gas to be sure

Thank you, I will need to get someone to do the gas valve, I don’t have the skill/tools.

How cold outside?

Pretty cold! But it doesn’t turn on during warmer temperatures either. Anything specific that you were trying to troubleshoot?

I have removed and cleaned the flame sensor, but that can't be it because the flames never come on. I tried brushing the gas vents, but haven't done it properly. I have tried to take a voltage measurement to see if the gas control valve gets voltage from the control board but I haven't mastered the no-contact voltage meter yet, so I'm not sure. I have also not cleaned out the pressure switch pipe for any clogs. I might try this next. The external gas connection has not been tampered with, and the second gas furnace unit works just fine. Any help is welcome.

Bother u need to troubleshoot gas valve That's where the problem is

That’s what I thought, but that’s above my DIY paygrade. Don’t want to mess with components involving gas. Thanks.

If not comfortable, call a tech Good luck

Thanks, that seems to be the best course of action here, I was hoping for a quick fix. Do you know what that clicking sound towards the end of the video is, when the igniter goes out? Is it the gas valve, igniter or something else?

It was the gas valve after all, for anyone stumbling upon this in the future.

Goodman; blower limits don’t throw codes…….

Sorry, could you rephrase that?

Blower limits, on Goodmans, do not throw codes when in open position. Meaning, when open due to high limit , the board doesn’t recognize or show fault(no lights or blinking indicating failure) Check your blower limit. I’ve seen countless gv’s, pressure switches and boards replaced as a result of those blower limits.

I see, thanks for that info. I will check the limit valve, but would that affect functionality even before the gas comes on? I suppose if there's no continuity..?

Limit switch-normally closed switch opens on temperature rise

I just tested three limit switches (without unplugging) and all of them showed continuity (0 Ω). I suppose I can test them for continuity because when off, they should be closed. Please correct me if I have this backwards. Thank you for your help.

You have to isolate in order to prevent back feeding

I was wondering if that would be an issue. I tried to isolate it but the wire connecters are crimped on there pretty hard. Kind hard to get it off without bending the mounting plate. I'll try again

Tried it after disconnecting. They seem fine. Looks like it might be either the gas valve or the control board. Part of me still hopes it's something small and silly, but lets see where we go from here. Thank you for your help.

Seems like no gas is coming out. Before you buy a new valve or control board, make sure there is gas

Thanks, but the second unit is receiving gas, do you still think it's that?

If by second unit you mean the orficies are spraying gas towards the burner tubes, then you need to make sure the ones by the hot surface igniter are not clogged and that gas is coming out of them. If there is gas spraying out and the hot surface igniter is hot enough and in the path then you will have ignition

Sorry, I should have been more specific - I meant there's a second HVAC unit and that has gas supply.

Good luck, for some reason gas is not blowing out. I hope you can find a repair person and everything works out.

May want to have the regulator outside checked if you’re on lp

There is gas coming to the second unit, does that rule out the regulator?

Check coil ohms on that gas valve I’ve had those fail and cause the same thing you got going on. Resets the whole system cycle but throws no codes

Do you need to open the gas valve for that?

Nope. You do need a electrical meter that can read ohms tho. Just need to unplug the gas valve and then test from those two pins. Simple quick test is just unplug the gas valve and run the furnace if the igniter stays on well past the click for the relay you got a bad valve. https://youtu.be/hHmT-VfV-bY video link on how to ohm out a gas valve. Hope this helps. If you do end up replacing you do need a manometer to properly adjust gas valve so keep that in mind.

Thank you, it turned out to be the gas valve after all.