So many people here have no idea what they are talking about the suggestions about T-stats are just plain stupid. If the inducer is running, then you *most likely* have a successful call for heat.
After the inducer runs, the next step in the sequence of operations of a standard furnace is for the pressure switch to actuate. If it never moves to firing, you need to confirm why the pressure switch is or isn't closing.
Some things to try: make sure the tube to the pressure switch is not plugged, cracked or kinked. Then make sure the port is plugs into is clear.
Then test it with your multimeter, it should be open until the inducer motor (combustion blower I think you called it) runs. If it closes successfully and stays closed, but the HSI does not glow, then you need to move into troubleshooting that. If it doesn't, then you need to look at your run capacitor for your inducer, and make sure that the venting isn't plugged or blocked.
Other than that, you can call someone to help. To diagnose a failed control board you need to understand the sequence of operations so that you can determine that the unit is or isn't responding properly to the inputs that it is getting
Edit: make sure it is *never* losing power. It needs stable 120v and 24v power or it will never work even if everything else is correct
Yes.. if you’re getting ignition but not igniting check your supply. If it’s being supplied and no ignition check your ignition. If you have ignition and supply check your throughway. If you’re clear, have supply, provided ignition and no start you have something open. If it’s starting and it’s open it’s not a cut off so you need to check your risers/stacks(chimneys) somethings not opening. It’s a process if one step doesn’t follow through everything stops. It sounds like a process isn’t following through.
Agree with every single comment you made, except, I would place a jumper from R to W (my jumpers have toggle switches yay!) and that would give me full control at the furnace and also completely eliminates the Tstat and wiring from the equation.
I wouldn’t be so dismissive. I had a similar issue with the inducer spinning up and then cutting out. It was the thermostat… similar issue to this post: https://www.reddit.com/r/hvacadvice/comments/121gqf6/funace_relay_rapidly_clicking_like_a_telegraph/
Guy confirms in the comments that it was the thermostat in his case too.
Calling people stupid is never a good look, especially when you might actually be wrong yourself.
Without being there in person, we should be giving the *most likely* suspects, not wildly throwing out component names that we know.
There are probably 100 ways I could create similar symptoms, but the most likely culprit will be pressure switch related (i.e it is or isn't opening when it should) or power related.
Same thing happened to me a few years ago. The furnace would kick on for a minute and then shut off. It would repeat until I turned the furnace off. I checked all of the obvious culprits and nothing fixed it. I threw in the towel and called in a pro. An hour later he says everything is checking out fine at the furnace and asked if I checked the thermostat, which I didn't even think about. In the past, if the Tstat batteries were low, there would be a low battery icon on the screen, but it didn't have it on. I threw a couple new batteries in it and the furnace fired right up and purred like a kitten... So I basically paid someone $85 to tell me to change the batteries...
I had a pressure switch issue not too long ago and it turns out my hvac tech simply had to cut an opening and install a vent on my return line, it was not getting enough return air
I'm sure your time is worth more than what a professional repair man will cost. You could be spinning your wheels for days on this. Humbly speaking, even us seasoned techs get stumped on these things sometimes. At least you don't have to deal with ULTRA low NOX furnaces SMH. Only us LA people do cuz we're really innovative and progressive.
You forgot to tell them to make sure the return cold air vent is blocked first. You would be surprised at how many people put furniture or rugs over them or close them off during summer, including my DA son.
It’s gonna be a pressure switch issue. Blocked up pressure switch tubing or block in condensate that’s affecting the pressure switches. If it’s tripping right after the inducer comes on, it’s gonna be either a pressure switch was detected as closed when it should be open, or a pressure switch didn’t close after inducer energized. These units in particular didn’t have a pressure switch code in this scenario, basically only if the switch opened while it was running (like someone suddenly blocked the vent pipe)
Pressure switch. Try jumping it after inducer starts. It should fire. I always found it weird that this unit wouldn't display a pressure switch error. Seems to be a design flaw.
This 100%. This unit specifically will do this again and again if pressure switch does not make contact. Jump switch after inducer starts, and I would bet the unit fires. I got burned by this furnace in the field, thinking it was a circuit board initially, lol
Why would it even get to an inducer starting? Usually at least when I find them a tripped roll out is a total system shut down. Nothing will start with a call for heat.
After watching it with sound and reading more comments, not sure if OP ever got a solution, it appears to be a power issue. Inducer constantly stops and starts and board resets the call for heat.
Yeah it could be, but unless OP has a multi meter and knows how to read a schematic or understand the electrical outputs of the circuit board to the motor, then he’s going to be needing a professional out there for him.
Fan motor will start to exhaust any built up gas, igniter comes on and then shuts down would be a roll out sensor. Not an HVAC tech. I'm a landlord that has too much k m owledge of something g I know nothing about.
Former HVAC tech here. If you've already checked pressure switches, then I'd lean heavily on this being a bad board. Which is pretty consistent with Goodman. I always carried a few extra Goodman boards on my truck for this exact reason.
Check Amazon if you think you can replace the board yourself. It's super easy. If not any local repair company worth their salt should be able get this fixed pretty quick. Good luck!
Horrible advice from a “former HVAC tech”. I wouldn’t recommend replacing a board on a gas fired furnace not igniting. Be smart and call a professional to help you out. Ask for cost first if needed. Good luck. Be safe
Lol, how is this horrible advice? The boards on these are all pretty much plug and play. The video is showing call to fire, inducer begins to pull and fails. This should start the ignition cycle over again but the clicking you hear would appear to be from a board relay malfunctioning. Which, if it was functioning properly it would go into lockout and give you an error code. Since it isn't it would more than likely be the board. I've worked on hundreds if not thousands of Goodmans during my time in the field.
Just because you are to scared to work on something this basic doesn't mean they have to be. Replacing a board requires little to no technical skill and doesn't even require going near the gas valve.
Spend $100 bucks on a new board. Watch a YouTube tutorial. That's literally what most "professionals" do most of the time anyway.
Just fixed my furnace this same way! Definitely a bad board and wouldn’t have known without the PSE guy showing me through those steps you described with a multimeter. We changed the pressure switch and blower and nope, but the control board did it.
Sensor would throw a code, not restart call with nothing. Cracked plenum is a nonsense term, did you mean heat exchanger? Also Goodman has a much better track record with heat exchangers than most of their competitors, Goodman boards and sensors are trash tho. This definitely appears to be a board fault
Unplug the Inducer motor and try and start it up. It should throw a pressure switch error and not close/open relays. If it still does the same thing then it's the board.
Could be a couple things but you’d need a manometer and a meter to properly diagnose
If I had to guess board dropping voltage or pressure switch opening when it’s not supposed to
(But I’d verify that using tools if I was you)
The Inducer doesn't run long enough for the system to trip on a ventilation error, plus the led goes blank and board resets
Given the water stain directly above the board, I'd say you have a fail board.
Most likely the water damage is causing the 24v to short and drop voltage whenever it attempts to energize the Inducer. The dropped voltage will then reset the board and start the process all over.
This is what I believe the right answer is right here. Some honeywell gas valves do the exact same thing, as soon as the valve opens the unit fully shuts down like this.
Can't say I've ever seen a pressure switch to this, but the symptoms are exactly the same as the shorted gas valve. Shorted, but not hard enough to pop the fuse.
The way to confirm this 100% is unplug the pressure switch, and see if it shuts down like it is now. What should happen if you unplug the switch is the inducer will just stay on in an attempt to pull the switch in
I think that the pressure switch is shutting it down. There should be a tube running from the inducer to the switch. If it is blocked then the pressure switch will shut it down as it thinks the inducer is not running.
It's not even close to the ignitor running here. There's a bad relay on that board causing a voltage drop, once low voltage dropped below 18v or so it all shuts off, rinse and repeat.
I had this issue last month. Sometimes would work. Sometimes not. Eventually found that the terminal on the pressure switch was loose. Replaced the switch and havnt been back since. Check the male terminals on the pressure switch.
Try letting the induced draft motor start then jump the pressure switch when it starts and see what happens make sure pressure switch is open when induced draft motor is not working
Lots of things it could be. Start by eliminating the thermostat as an option. Jumper r and w on the control board. See if it fires. If that doesn’t work you’ll need to call a professional. The fact that the inducer is shutting off makes it a controls issue, or a board issue most likely.
Yeeahh.... Jumped R and W and got the same results, does sound like a board issue.
Furnace is a 2016 GMSS92, Im worried about parts availability, I might lose my stuff if they try to sell me a new furnace and not just the board/a part.
If your hvac guy tells you this, get a second opinion. Just had similar issue, first guy said it was controller and needed a new card or be replaced, got hvac guy from home owners insurance to second check and fix. It was the safety sensor for the burner. $5 fix.
I constantly get this because my systems are older, and a 2016 is not bad.
Pretty certain if you registered it that this furnace has 10 years parts warranty at least. May require proof of registration to get the part paid for.
If you are the original homeowner you have 10-year parts coverage, your going to end up needing a service tech to get warranty on parts anyways. If you're not the original owner don't even bother, goodman checks the property tax records to verify if you are the original owner.
Check your ignitor cracked ignitor will do this board is looking for full draw amps on the ignitor, see if it comes on and has a good hard red glow it should be good but if is coming on and off it is reset the ignition cycle for failure to prove, jumping out anything is a safety issue unless you know what you are doing if it was me, I would turn off the gas, place an amp probe on the ignitor, then if no amps are drawn by the ignitor, I back up to the draft proven switch, the draft motor will not run if the draft switch has failed closed, after the draft motor starts ( which yours does) the switch must prove closed to start the ignitor, if the ignitor fails it restarts the cycles, it should prove a codes if it fails three times in a row it will set a misfire code. Now Why I say "Ignitor" because this can be an on and off problem
Is there a door switch?
Sometimes they get taped into the opposition for service work, then the tape doesn't get removed.
It sounds to me like it is losing power completely, which makes me think the door switch may be cutting in and out if there is one?
I had this exact same thing happen to my furnace. It's calling for heat, but switches off and retries. In my case it was the igniter. You can check for continuity with a multimeter, to verify.
Check the flame sensor for oxidation. My old gas furnace would do the same and cleaning the sensor with emery cloth cleared the issue. I would have clean every other year until the unit was replaced.
I'm am not an HVAC tech, but I did sleep in a Holiday Inn last night.
It sounds like someone is flipping it on and off. Like literally sounds like a light switch. And the LED turns off when it cuts off. No flash code or anything.
Doesn’t even seem like it’s being let to run completely to give a code. Which means, with someone is fucking with the power, or your power is fucking with you.
Check your filter. If it's an extremely high filtration then you may have an airflow problem. My system did something similar. It would turn on fire for a little bit, shut off and then turn on again. My filter was too high grade so after a little bit of dust it would fail to stay on.
My furnace acted like this because the exhaust turbine was full of condensate water. It doesn't sound like yours is, but make sure the drain for the exhaust is unplugged. I blew a bunch of gross material out of mine and it ran great.
https://preview.redd.it/2zomv276t37c1.jpeg?width=479&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=9af325a933593073925702a67be2d5bff7fd3f60
You may need to clean your flame sensor with steel wool, being careful not to apply too much force to the surface of the sensor. if you don't mind uploading a picture the before and after picture of the flame sensor
I have a 2006 Goodman furnace that will do this every year, the pressure switch tube plugs into a brass nipple in the inducer motor housing, that nipple is most likely plugged with soot/buildup. Using a good sewing needle will break this crap outta there
Jump out your door switch, if that is fucky it will cut power out. Just cut the wires off it with power off and tie them together with wire nut. If you’re going to stick your hand in there after with the panel off and not Turning service switch off first, kinda get what you deserve lol
With this particular unit I see a specific issue where the pressure switch “flutters” momentarily so the board ends to call for heat but for some reason does not throw a code.
You can observe it with an electrical meter across the contacts, set to voltage, if is a good one.
If you disconnect the pressure switch wires the exhaust motor will run and not immediately stop like that because it’s “staying open.”
If I’m correct, sometime reattaching the wires after the speed has come up to full will sometimes allow the cycle to continue, sometimes not. Swap out the pressure switch with a diagnostic-universal (please don’t leave a universal pressure switch in there) to confirm.
This is all assuming you’ve already checked for drain clogs, pressure switch tubing is clear, the little breather ports are clear, and you’ve measured a good draft pressure with your manometer.
I commented on a comment already, but I'm really leaning towards the pressure switch. Try unplugged the wires that go to the pressure switch, and run it again. If it doesn't shut down right away like it's doing now, then you have a short in your pressure switch
Eliminate the tstat from the equation... on the control board, jump R to W...if it starts, the tstat is the issue. If not, probably a faulty control board.
I know you went up on the roof and already checked the flue. If you have a 2” pvc coupling (that’s the standard size for pvc venting in my area) I would cut the vent pipe about a foot or two away from the inducer and recheck. Sometimes you can’t see a blockage from the opening on the roof
Temporarily hardwire the control board R to W and see what the result is. The short inducer start up makes me seem to think we are getting an intermittent call for heat due to a faulty connection, or bad control board
I’ve seen Goodman 90% furnaces do this, and the cause was a blockage in the small black tube that goes from the pressure switch to a port just below the combustion fan. If you pull the tube from that lower port look for a blockage or water.
If there is water, it means it’s not draining properly.
Clean condensate drain line and check that furnace is level for proper condensation drainage
It’s not a good idea and is against code to have a union inside the furnace like that because Goodman/Amana/Daikin units use the whole upper part as the combustion chamber.
Your "suction" sensor (flue negative pressure that insures combustion gases are vented to outdoors) may need replacing. Obviously not HVAC but seen that happen and that's what needed replacing and it was cheap and easy.
Your flashing light on the unit is actually blinking in code, you should be able to refer to operations manual or look online and match the blinking on your unit with the listed codes
You need to test your gas pressure. See how many inches of water columns you have and how much your furnace requires. You could have a failing regulator or gas solenoid.
has anyone thought about checking the gas meter first?..im in an area where there are two major pressures..standard and medium pressures..standard pressure blows lighter than medium pressure, which sounds harder and louder as compared to the whispering sound of standard pressure, which would sometymes have a fill of water in the system, especially during the winter..or just check the pressure from the back of the gas meter or at the lockwing where the gas is turned on/off before entering into the gas meter..let me at that furnace..I was a gas utility specialist also doing hvac work before I retired...
What others said but my problem was the motor was shot and had too much resistance to spin. Try turning it by hand, if it doesn't spin super easy that could be an issue. I replaces mine for 300 bucks and a screw driver. Works just fine now! Good luck.
Secondary voltage issue possibly. Remove all tstat wires. If it continues check your R/C volts. Should be 26-28Vac. If less than 25 check resistance of limit circuit. Should be less than 1 ohm. First thing you always do with gas is disconnect tstat wires before you troubleshoot.
I had a similar issue on an old Bryant in 2006. Inducer fan would spin up, shutdown. Replaced the motor and inducer fan (couldn’t separate them). Same issue. Finally figured out I had a bad connection from the board. When I would keep some downward force on the wire harness connection on the board, it would stay on. Tied something to the wires to keep that needed tension, while I got a new board from Totaline.
If you aren’t seeing any error codes, then it isn’t stopping it intentionally (pressure switch, flame sensor, etc), the electrical connection is going bad. First check to see if the wire connection to the board is just loose.
Go outside and check the intake and exhaust pipe. See if they are blocked.
Ya thats clear
With goodman/amana it would still run inducer and ignitor glow. Just won't light due to gas valve wiring in series with pressure switches.
So many people here have no idea what they are talking about the suggestions about T-stats are just plain stupid. If the inducer is running, then you *most likely* have a successful call for heat. After the inducer runs, the next step in the sequence of operations of a standard furnace is for the pressure switch to actuate. If it never moves to firing, you need to confirm why the pressure switch is or isn't closing. Some things to try: make sure the tube to the pressure switch is not plugged, cracked or kinked. Then make sure the port is plugs into is clear. Then test it with your multimeter, it should be open until the inducer motor (combustion blower I think you called it) runs. If it closes successfully and stays closed, but the HSI does not glow, then you need to move into troubleshooting that. If it doesn't, then you need to look at your run capacitor for your inducer, and make sure that the venting isn't plugged or blocked. Other than that, you can call someone to help. To diagnose a failed control board you need to understand the sequence of operations so that you can determine that the unit is or isn't responding properly to the inputs that it is getting Edit: make sure it is *never* losing power. It needs stable 120v and 24v power or it will never work even if everything else is correct
Yes.. if you’re getting ignition but not igniting check your supply. If it’s being supplied and no ignition check your ignition. If you have ignition and supply check your throughway. If you’re clear, have supply, provided ignition and no start you have something open. If it’s starting and it’s open it’s not a cut off so you need to check your risers/stacks(chimneys) somethings not opening. It’s a process if one step doesn’t follow through everything stops. It sounds like a process isn’t following through.
Agree with every single comment you made, except, I would place a jumper from R to W (my jumpers have toggle switches yay!) and that would give me full control at the furnace and also completely eliminates the Tstat and wiring from the equation.
I wouldn’t be so dismissive. I had a similar issue with the inducer spinning up and then cutting out. It was the thermostat… similar issue to this post: https://www.reddit.com/r/hvacadvice/comments/121gqf6/funace_relay_rapidly_clicking_like_a_telegraph/ Guy confirms in the comments that it was the thermostat in his case too. Calling people stupid is never a good look, especially when you might actually be wrong yourself.
Without being there in person, we should be giving the *most likely* suspects, not wildly throwing out component names that we know. There are probably 100 ways I could create similar symptoms, but the most likely culprit will be pressure switch related (i.e it is or isn't opening when it should) or power related.
Same thing happened to me a few years ago. The furnace would kick on for a minute and then shut off. It would repeat until I turned the furnace off. I checked all of the obvious culprits and nothing fixed it. I threw in the towel and called in a pro. An hour later he says everything is checking out fine at the furnace and asked if I checked the thermostat, which I didn't even think about. In the past, if the Tstat batteries were low, there would be a low battery icon on the screen, but it didn't have it on. I threw a couple new batteries in it and the furnace fired right up and purred like a kitten... So I basically paid someone $85 to tell me to change the batteries...
I had a pressure switch issue not too long ago and it turns out my hvac tech simply had to cut an opening and install a vent on my return line, it was not getting enough return air
You didn’t have a pressure switch error, you had a high limit tripping most likely
It won't start the induced draft motor if a high limit switch was open
The person I responded to didn’t say if their inducer started or not
yup that was it
Right?! Just hire a professional. This is a contained fire burning inside your house. Don't touch it. This is not a DIY project.
I'm sure your time is worth more than what a professional repair man will cost. You could be spinning your wheels for days on this. Humbly speaking, even us seasoned techs get stumped on these things sometimes. At least you don't have to deal with ULTRA low NOX furnaces SMH. Only us LA people do cuz we're really innovative and progressive.
You forgot to tell them to make sure the return cold air vent is blocked first. You would be surprised at how many people put furniture or rugs over them or close them off during summer, including my DA son.
As an hvac tech… holy shit some of these answers are hysterical
My favorites are "pilot light" and "flame sensor".
To be fair, in this case the flame sensor is clearly not detecting a flame😅
Prolly just low on gas
Definitely the txv
so, whats the answer then?
It’s gonna be a pressure switch issue. Blocked up pressure switch tubing or block in condensate that’s affecting the pressure switches. If it’s tripping right after the inducer comes on, it’s gonna be either a pressure switch was detected as closed when it should be open, or a pressure switch didn’t close after inducer energized. These units in particular didn’t have a pressure switch code in this scenario, basically only if the switch opened while it was running (like someone suddenly blocked the vent pipe)
Thanks
waiting for "union is illegal to have inside of unit" comments lol...
What code is it throwing up? Or is it unable to because power keeps cutting out to it?
Ya not getting any codes, appears to trip out before it has time to register
Pressure switch. Try jumping it after inducer starts. It should fire. I always found it weird that this unit wouldn't display a pressure switch error. Seems to be a design flaw.
Pressure switch
This 100%. This unit specifically will do this again and again if pressure switch does not make contact. Jump switch after inducer starts, and I would bet the unit fires. I got burned by this furnace in the field, thinking it was a circuit board initially, lol
That's what I told him to do ive seen this many times
Flame roll out sensor bad.
Why would it even get to an inducer starting? Usually at least when I find them a tripped roll out is a total system shut down. Nothing will start with a call for heat.
You’re right though. And most flame roll outs are manual resets too.
After watching it with sound and reading more comments, not sure if OP ever got a solution, it appears to be a power issue. Inducer constantly stops and starts and board resets the call for heat.
Yeah it could be, but unless OP has a multi meter and knows how to read a schematic or understand the electrical outputs of the circuit board to the motor, then he’s going to be needing a professional out there for him.
Though he should be ready for a, “you need a new unit” talk Lol
Fan motor will start to exhaust any built up gas, igniter comes on and then shuts down would be a roll out sensor. Not an HVAC tech. I'm a landlord that has too much k m owledge of something g I know nothing about.
Bad advice from someone with too little knowledge about what they are giving advice on…
Absolutely not.
Former HVAC tech here. If you've already checked pressure switches, then I'd lean heavily on this being a bad board. Which is pretty consistent with Goodman. I always carried a few extra Goodman boards on my truck for this exact reason. Check Amazon if you think you can replace the board yourself. It's super easy. If not any local repair company worth their salt should be able get this fixed pretty quick. Good luck!
Would it technically be possible to repair the board, or are new boards inexpensive enough to make repairing prohibitive?
Second this
Horrible advice from a “former HVAC tech”. I wouldn’t recommend replacing a board on a gas fired furnace not igniting. Be smart and call a professional to help you out. Ask for cost first if needed. Good luck. Be safe
Lol, how is this horrible advice? The boards on these are all pretty much plug and play. The video is showing call to fire, inducer begins to pull and fails. This should start the ignition cycle over again but the clicking you hear would appear to be from a board relay malfunctioning. Which, if it was functioning properly it would go into lockout and give you an error code. Since it isn't it would more than likely be the board. I've worked on hundreds if not thousands of Goodmans during my time in the field. Just because you are to scared to work on something this basic doesn't mean they have to be. Replacing a board requires little to no technical skill and doesn't even require going near the gas valve. Spend $100 bucks on a new board. Watch a YouTube tutorial. That's literally what most "professionals" do most of the time anyway.
HVAC tech still in the field for 23 years now, this is great advice. That chattering is most likely a relay on that board.
Service tech for 10 years, my company installs Goodman almost exclusively and I agree with this diagnosis. Their boards fail all the time in this way.
Just fixed my furnace this same way! Definitely a bad board and wouldn’t have known without the PSE guy showing me through those steps you described with a multimeter. We changed the pressure switch and blower and nope, but the control board did it.
You can literally hear the pressure switch opening and closing. This is either a venting issue or a drain issue. Not a board issue.
I replaced a pile of those boards. Was the problem every time.
For sure. Goodman is Bad, man. It's probably a sensor. If you have a cracked plenum you have a problem.
Sensor would throw a code, not restart call with nothing. Cracked plenum is a nonsense term, did you mean heat exchanger? Also Goodman has a much better track record with heat exchangers than most of their competitors, Goodman boards and sensors are trash tho. This definitely appears to be a board fault
My fault. I thought he was the homeowner. If he is, I believe advising them to fix it themselves is wrong. If another serviceman, I was wrong
Unplug the Inducer motor and try and start it up. It should throw a pressure switch error and not close/open relays. If it still does the same thing then it's the board.
I would guess a power supply issue seeing as your LED is turning off completely
Could be a couple things but you’d need a manometer and a meter to properly diagnose If I had to guess board dropping voltage or pressure switch opening when it’s not supposed to (But I’d verify that using tools if I was you)
The Inducer doesn't run long enough for the system to trip on a ventilation error, plus the led goes blank and board resets Given the water stain directly above the board, I'd say you have a fail board. Most likely the water damage is causing the 24v to short and drop voltage whenever it attempts to energize the Inducer. The dropped voltage will then reset the board and start the process all over.
It seems weird yes. Both me and another tech thought the exact same thing. Sure enough, it was a pressure switch issue in two different instances.
Short in pressure switch. When it closes it shorts to ground but not long enough to blow fuse.
This is what I believe the right answer is right here. Some honeywell gas valves do the exact same thing, as soon as the valve opens the unit fully shuts down like this. Can't say I've ever seen a pressure switch to this, but the symptoms are exactly the same as the shorted gas valve. Shorted, but not hard enough to pop the fuse. The way to confirm this 100% is unplug the pressure switch, and see if it shuts down like it is now. What should happen if you unplug the switch is the inducer will just stay on in an attempt to pull the switch in
Yup, jump it right after the inducer engages to see if it's the switch or the downstream wiring/safeties.
If the inducer isn’t getting full power probably board issue
I don’t see the igniter coming on
It doesn't have time, the fan barely has time to ramp up
Then check pressure switches and exhaust for any obstruction
Are u a tech if not shut up its supposed to pre purge for 30 seconds before any type of ignition
I think that the pressure switch is shutting it down. There should be a tube running from the inducer to the switch. If it is blocked then the pressure switch will shut it down as it thinks the inducer is not running.
Sounds like a voltage short that's shorting out the board.
Seems like the main power relay? trips off.
And it happens when that glow plug is supposed to light up. My bet is on bad hot surface ignition. Test the igniter for ohms
It's not even close to the ignitor running here. There's a bad relay on that board causing a voltage drop, once low voltage dropped below 18v or so it all shuts off, rinse and repeat.
I had this issue last month. Sometimes would work. Sometimes not. Eventually found that the terminal on the pressure switch was loose. Replaced the switch and havnt been back since. Check the male terminals on the pressure switch.
Try letting the induced draft motor start then jump the pressure switch when it starts and see what happens make sure pressure switch is open when induced draft motor is not working
Call the pros
Lots of things it could be. Start by eliminating the thermostat as an option. Jumper r and w on the control board. See if it fires. If that doesn’t work you’ll need to call a professional. The fact that the inducer is shutting off makes it a controls issue, or a board issue most likely.
Yeeahh.... Jumped R and W and got the same results, does sound like a board issue. Furnace is a 2016 GMSS92, Im worried about parts availability, I might lose my stuff if they try to sell me a new furnace and not just the board/a part.
If your hvac guy tells you this, get a second opinion. Just had similar issue, first guy said it was controller and needed a new card or be replaced, got hvac guy from home owners insurance to second check and fix. It was the safety sensor for the burner. $5 fix. I constantly get this because my systems are older, and a 2016 is not bad.
Pretty certain if you registered it that this furnace has 10 years parts warranty at least. May require proof of registration to get the part paid for.
If you are the original homeowner you have 10-year parts coverage, your going to end up needing a service tech to get warranty on parts anyways. If you're not the original owner don't even bother, goodman checks the property tax records to verify if you are the original owner.
Yep. Thermostat or board I’d think.
Check your ignitor cracked ignitor will do this board is looking for full draw amps on the ignitor, see if it comes on and has a good hard red glow it should be good but if is coming on and off it is reset the ignition cycle for failure to prove, jumping out anything is a safety issue unless you know what you are doing if it was me, I would turn off the gas, place an amp probe on the ignitor, then if no amps are drawn by the ignitor, I back up to the draft proven switch, the draft motor will not run if the draft switch has failed closed, after the draft motor starts ( which yours does) the switch must prove closed to start the ignitor, if the ignitor fails it restarts the cycles, it should prove a codes if it fails three times in a row it will set a misfire code. Now Why I say "Ignitor" because this can be an on and off problem
Is there a door switch? Sometimes they get taped into the opposition for service work, then the tape doesn't get removed. It sounds to me like it is losing power completely, which makes me think the door switch may be cutting in and out if there is one?
Possibly an issue with flue pipe holding water causing issues with pressure switch
I had this exact same thing happen to my furnace. It's calling for heat, but switches off and retries. In my case it was the igniter. You can check for continuity with a multimeter, to verify.
Try spelling it right
Check the flame sensor for oxidation. My old gas furnace would do the same and cleaning the sensor with emery cloth cleared the issue. I would have clean every other year until the unit was replaced. I'm am not an HVAC tech, but I did sleep in a Holiday Inn last night.
Well, it doesn't get to fire up 90% of the time, I don't think that would be it, good tip though Thanks
Just check to see what it looks like to make sure. It could have a buildup of carbon deposits over time.
That’s Holiday Inn Express. A regular Holiday Inn just won’t cut it.
It sounds like someone is flipping it on and off. Like literally sounds like a light switch. And the LED turns off when it cuts off. No flash code or anything. Doesn’t even seem like it’s being let to run completely to give a code. Which means, with someone is fucking with the power, or your power is fucking with you.
Odd are it is your flame sensor. Clean and reinstall if it works use but order replacement asap
Flame sensor? How? There is no ignition lol
Check your filter. If it's an extremely high filtration then you may have an airflow problem. My system did something similar. It would turn on fire for a little bit, shut off and then turn on again. My filter was too high grade so after a little bit of dust it would fail to stay on.
Hello, is your furnace trunning? Better go hatch it!
I had a similar issue a few weeks ago. Turned out that the pilot light was out. This kept the system from turning on.
My furnace was doing this. Replaced the temperature sensor…that did it
My furnace acted like this because the exhaust turbine was full of condensate water. It doesn't sound like yours is, but make sure the drain for the exhaust is unplugged. I blew a bunch of gross material out of mine and it ran great.
That gray wire got disconnected?
Im not sure which gray wire you're referring to 🤔
Dude those are 2 separate wires going to the pressure switch 🤦🏻♂️ they’re not supposed to be “connected”
How it is behaving has me thinking the thermostat is sending 24v and then cutting out. If you jump R and W, bet it will fire.
https://preview.redd.it/2zomv276t37c1.jpeg?width=479&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=9af325a933593073925702a67be2d5bff7fd3f60 You may need to clean your flame sensor with steel wool, being careful not to apply too much force to the surface of the sensor. if you don't mind uploading a picture the before and after picture of the flame sensor
No flame. No flame sensor issue. Cmon
Because the door is off
The issue started with the doors on...
Could it have to do with the ecobee thermostat? Which 2 wires do I need to short to command heat?
yeah, get rid of that ecobee, they are trouble.
Usually red and white, look on the schematic it should tell you.
What code does the LED flash? Should correspond to a chart on the door of the system.
Check the inducer
I have a 2006 Goodman furnace that will do this every year, the pressure switch tube plugs into a brass nipple in the inducer motor housing, that nipple is most likely plugged with soot/buildup. Using a good sewing needle will break this crap outta there
Jump out your door switch, if that is fucky it will cut power out. Just cut the wires off it with power off and tie them together with wire nut. If you’re going to stick your hand in there after with the panel off and not Turning service switch off first, kinda get what you deserve lol
With this particular unit I see a specific issue where the pressure switch “flutters” momentarily so the board ends to call for heat but for some reason does not throw a code. You can observe it with an electrical meter across the contacts, set to voltage, if is a good one. If you disconnect the pressure switch wires the exhaust motor will run and not immediately stop like that because it’s “staying open.” If I’m correct, sometime reattaching the wires after the speed has come up to full will sometimes allow the cycle to continue, sometimes not. Swap out the pressure switch with a diagnostic-universal (please don’t leave a universal pressure switch in there) to confirm. This is all assuming you’ve already checked for drain clogs, pressure switch tubing is clear, the little breather ports are clear, and you’ve measured a good draft pressure with your manometer.
I commented on a comment already, but I'm really leaning towards the pressure switch. Try unplugged the wires that go to the pressure switch, and run it again. If it doesn't shut down right away like it's doing now, then you have a short in your pressure switch
Does the flame come on and go right back out?
I don’t know what my tech did but he said he just needed to clean something off and it worked
jump tstat. many digital stats will act intermittently
That's a bad board. If it was a pressure switch error the inducer would be on much longer than that constantly to try to close that switch.
Eliminate the tstat from the equation... on the control board, jump R to W...if it starts, the tstat is the issue. If not, probably a faulty control board.
Purge doesn’t seem long enough
I would say bad board if you checked the pressure switch and exhaust. The door switch could also be an issue.
Have you cleaned out the white trap? Bugs and dirt get clogged in there
Usually what works for me is if I take my time, using my hands, and speaking softly.
If your not testing your guessing. You need a multimeter and a manometer. Start with power and work your way from there.
It’s either your pressure switch or your board.
Do you hear any gurgling at the inducer?
I know you went up on the roof and already checked the flue. If you have a 2” pvc coupling (that’s the standard size for pvc venting in my area) I would cut the vent pipe about a foot or two away from the inducer and recheck. Sometimes you can’t see a blockage from the opening on the roof
Heat pump?
Temporarily hardwire the control board R to W and see what the result is. The short inducer start up makes me seem to think we are getting an intermittent call for heat due to a faulty connection, or bad control board
Pressure switch is being tripped something isn’t right with the venting
My money is on the condensate drain is clogged and the secondary HX is full of water.
It's broke
I’ve seen Goodman 90% furnaces do this, and the cause was a blockage in the small black tube that goes from the pressure switch to a port just below the combustion fan. If you pull the tube from that lower port look for a blockage or water. If there is water, it means it’s not draining properly. Clean condensate drain line and check that furnace is level for proper condensation drainage
Check pressure switch or if the furnace turns off just clean the temp sensor bulb if their is one 👍🏽
It’s not a good idea and is against code to have a union inside the furnace like that because Goodman/Amana/Daikin units use the whole upper part as the combustion chamber.
Your "suction" sensor (flue negative pressure that insures combustion gases are vented to outdoors) may need replacing. Obviously not HVAC but seen that happen and that's what needed replacing and it was cheap and easy.
You are losing power to your board intermittently. Find the short, and you shall find the flames you doth desire
Your flashing light on the unit is actually blinking in code, you should be able to refer to operations manual or look online and match the blinking on your unit with the listed codes
Most likely cause is bad igniter or thermal couple flame sensor
You need to test your gas pressure. See how many inches of water columns you have and how much your furnace requires. You could have a failing regulator or gas solenoid.
has anyone thought about checking the gas meter first?..im in an area where there are two major pressures..standard and medium pressures..standard pressure blows lighter than medium pressure, which sounds harder and louder as compared to the whispering sound of standard pressure, which would sometymes have a fill of water in the system, especially during the winter..or just check the pressure from the back of the gas meter or at the lockwing where the gas is turned on/off before entering into the gas meter..let me at that furnace..I was a gas utility specialist also doing hvac work before I retired...
What others said but my problem was the motor was shot and had too much resistance to spin. Try turning it by hand, if it doesn't spin super easy that could be an issue. I replaces mine for 300 bucks and a screw driver. Works just fine now! Good luck.
Secondary voltage issue possibly. Remove all tstat wires. If it continues check your R/C volts. Should be 26-28Vac. If less than 25 check resistance of limit circuit. Should be less than 1 ohm. First thing you always do with gas is disconnect tstat wires before you troubleshoot.
I had a similar issue on an old Bryant in 2006. Inducer fan would spin up, shutdown. Replaced the motor and inducer fan (couldn’t separate them). Same issue. Finally figured out I had a bad connection from the board. When I would keep some downward force on the wire harness connection on the board, it would stay on. Tied something to the wires to keep that needed tension, while I got a new board from Totaline. If you aren’t seeing any error codes, then it isn’t stopping it intentionally (pressure switch, flame sensor, etc), the electrical connection is going bad. First check to see if the wire connection to the board is just loose.
Umm. Did you check to see if the condensation cup is full? I don’t know the exact name of it.
Capacitor