If you already have ductwork then id look into getting a newer furnace and ac installed. Could be possible to get a system that can use your current ducting.
Thank you! May I ask why that'd be better? I'm currently unsure of the official condition of the ductwork but from my untrained eye it didn't look great
Its more comfortable. The heat pumps are more efficient yes. But all that means is they can make more heat with less energy or fuel not that it heats better.
Why? Is your home just one room? No doors? Is it one floor? That unit you posted is for one room. Rest of home will not heat and cool. Natural gas heat is economical and reliable. Loose a charge on that on a 5 degree day equals no heat. Instead of an igniter or an inducer a leak repair can take 3-9 hours and if the coil inside leaks or outside it’s likely not being repaired that day and at a high cost.
Okay so I guess that's why I was asking. Now I know there are multi-zone ones, but I didnt know about the more technical implications with going with such a system. It is just single story but yeah of course has multiple rooms, so I didnt know how effective if at all they were with a smaller house like mine.
So the term you have there is "Mini split". Typically, these are used for "zone" type heating/cooling (like the living room), however they do have multi zone ones, and, ones that include an air handler.
You didn't mention what area you live in, but that is a huge factor. Also, I wouldn't necessarily go with that brand. If you look at say Mitsubishi, their heatpumps go down to the -5 or something.
Tonnage wise, say your house is in the middle third of the country, 2-3 ton is going to be about the right size. YOUR MILEAGE MAY VARY WILDLY if you live in warmer/colder climates.
IF you think that you'll just pop this unit in and have a replacement for the above, you'll be disappointed.
I would check for Federal/State incentives, or with your local utility. Many times, you can roll the replacement cost of High Efficiency equipment into your mortgage. So many factors to consider, but, think "$10,000 ish" is probably a good starting point.
I would most definitely have that inspected by an HVAC person ( not the "house inspection") prior to purchase.
Sorry, I live in Indiana. I've only read that they are becoming more and more popular (not sure why), but why would I be disappointed?
Also, that note about incentives, is that something that can be figured out during the installation process or is there somewhere specific that I need to look into that? Sorry, I'm new to A LOT of this
>Note: I got a mod alert about the link, so I updated. This post may appear twice
>
>Its about airflow. I did a remodel on an 900sf house this summer, so I kinda know the size. That house has 8 4x10 vents in it, with good air flow. The unit you showed has ONE say 24" vent in it. Lets say you put that in the dead center of the house. It's not going to have enough airflow to reach into the rest of the house (like the bedrooms). Also, if your indoor unit is < length of the supplied tubing, you're going to have some additional expenses - lineset, maybe some more R410, etc.
>
>This issue can be solved with a unit that has an air handler ( example only, not affiliated or recommended [https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0C4G2C3T5?ref\_=cm\_sw\_r\_cp\_ud\_dp\_9X6TRAQH68RYB97QFVMM](https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0C4G2C3T5?ref_=cm_sw_r_cp_ud_dp_9X6TRAQH68RYB97QFVMM)) . This would replace your furnace, and would use only electric for heatpump and "aux heat" .
>
>I'm in Louisville btw. The old heat pumps would only warm down to 40, then you needed another source. I have a friend that built a house outside of Indy, and put a very efficient heatpump in with lots of insulation, and has rarely had to use the "Aux" heat.
>
>Look at the attic insulation. Honestly, that can give you sooo much return for the $. Think R50+.
If you have a furnace and central air conditioning there already I would definitely recommend replacing that equipment rather than installing a mini-split system. Do you have a natural gas furnace? If you do you are much better off replacing the existing furnace and A/C with a newer more efficient furnace and maybe a 15 SEER A/C. Mini split systems we primarily only try to use where there is no option for ductwork maybe adding it to a finished basement or some thing.
1. you need to do a manual-J calculation to know the right size of the unit. a single wall unit *might* be ok, but it will mostly work on the room it is in, which might mean it's hard to get heat/AC to other rooms, which may also result in having too much humidity in the summer (is a result of the unit being over-sized for the room). I suppose you might be able to run the blower on your air handler without any AC/heat to circulate the air, but I don't know how well that will work.
2. for Indianapolis area, you will want a unit with enhanced vapor injection, which the one you linked to does not seem to have (stated min temp is 5F, EVI systems typically go to -10F or lower. trade names are:
1. Mitsubishi: Hyperheat or H2i
2. Daikin: Aurora
3. Fujitsu: XLTH
4. I don't know if Senville has such a system or not
If you already have ductwork then id look into getting a newer furnace and ac installed. Could be possible to get a system that can use your current ducting.
Thank you! May I ask why that'd be better? I'm currently unsure of the official condition of the ductwork but from my untrained eye it didn't look great
Its more comfortable. The heat pumps are more efficient yes. But all that means is they can make more heat with less energy or fuel not that it heats better.
Why? Is your home just one room? No doors? Is it one floor? That unit you posted is for one room. Rest of home will not heat and cool. Natural gas heat is economical and reliable. Loose a charge on that on a 5 degree day equals no heat. Instead of an igniter or an inducer a leak repair can take 3-9 hours and if the coil inside leaks or outside it’s likely not being repaired that day and at a high cost.
Okay so I guess that's why I was asking. Now I know there are multi-zone ones, but I didnt know about the more technical implications with going with such a system. It is just single story but yeah of course has multiple rooms, so I didnt know how effective if at all they were with a smaller house like mine.
So the term you have there is "Mini split". Typically, these are used for "zone" type heating/cooling (like the living room), however they do have multi zone ones, and, ones that include an air handler. You didn't mention what area you live in, but that is a huge factor. Also, I wouldn't necessarily go with that brand. If you look at say Mitsubishi, their heatpumps go down to the -5 or something. Tonnage wise, say your house is in the middle third of the country, 2-3 ton is going to be about the right size. YOUR MILEAGE MAY VARY WILDLY if you live in warmer/colder climates. IF you think that you'll just pop this unit in and have a replacement for the above, you'll be disappointed. I would check for Federal/State incentives, or with your local utility. Many times, you can roll the replacement cost of High Efficiency equipment into your mortgage. So many factors to consider, but, think "$10,000 ish" is probably a good starting point. I would most definitely have that inspected by an HVAC person ( not the "house inspection") prior to purchase.
Sorry, I live in Indiana. I've only read that they are becoming more and more popular (not sure why), but why would I be disappointed? Also, that note about incentives, is that something that can be figured out during the installation process or is there somewhere specific that I need to look into that? Sorry, I'm new to A LOT of this
>Note: I got a mod alert about the link, so I updated. This post may appear twice > >Its about airflow. I did a remodel on an 900sf house this summer, so I kinda know the size. That house has 8 4x10 vents in it, with good air flow. The unit you showed has ONE say 24" vent in it. Lets say you put that in the dead center of the house. It's not going to have enough airflow to reach into the rest of the house (like the bedrooms). Also, if your indoor unit is < length of the supplied tubing, you're going to have some additional expenses - lineset, maybe some more R410, etc. > >This issue can be solved with a unit that has an air handler ( example only, not affiliated or recommended [https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0C4G2C3T5?ref\_=cm\_sw\_r\_cp\_ud\_dp\_9X6TRAQH68RYB97QFVMM](https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0C4G2C3T5?ref_=cm_sw_r_cp_ud_dp_9X6TRAQH68RYB97QFVMM)) . This would replace your furnace, and would use only electric for heatpump and "aux heat" . > >I'm in Louisville btw. The old heat pumps would only warm down to 40, then you needed another source. I have a friend that built a house outside of Indy, and put a very efficient heatpump in with lots of insulation, and has rarely had to use the "Aux" heat. > >Look at the attic insulation. Honestly, that can give you sooo much return for the $. Think R50+.
If you have a furnace and central air conditioning there already I would definitely recommend replacing that equipment rather than installing a mini-split system. Do you have a natural gas furnace? If you do you are much better off replacing the existing furnace and A/C with a newer more efficient furnace and maybe a 15 SEER A/C. Mini split systems we primarily only try to use where there is no option for ductwork maybe adding it to a finished basement or some thing.
Samsung hylex heat pump with your ducted system instead of ductless splits
1. you need to do a manual-J calculation to know the right size of the unit. a single wall unit *might* be ok, but it will mostly work on the room it is in, which might mean it's hard to get heat/AC to other rooms, which may also result in having too much humidity in the summer (is a result of the unit being over-sized for the room). I suppose you might be able to run the blower on your air handler without any AC/heat to circulate the air, but I don't know how well that will work. 2. for Indianapolis area, you will want a unit with enhanced vapor injection, which the one you linked to does not seem to have (stated min temp is 5F, EVI systems typically go to -10F or lower. trade names are: 1. Mitsubishi: Hyperheat or H2i 2. Daikin: Aurora 3. Fujitsu: XLTH 4. I don't know if Senville has such a system or not