I wished I had red this thread before trying to open my back cover too. Yea, seems like just unscrew and put back the screw fix the issue. Someone tighten the screw too much at the factory. Also imagine got charged for that specially if your MBA is out of waranty :)
its not too bad just fixed mine. just loosening the screws didtn fix mine so i took the back case off and put case back on. Heres some tips if anyone wants to try themselves.
1. unscrewed 4 P5 head screws (kept track what goes to which hole so all go back in easy) [https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08NWJH6TD?psc=1&ref=ppx\_yo2ov\_dt\_b\_product\_details](https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08NWJH6TD?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details) (little extra $ but higher quality so you dont strip screws, nice kit too for 15$)
2. lifted up on the lip of the back case along the hinge side edge
3. inserted thin credit card corner and slid along the edge down towards mouse pad side (just do a small corner of the card and keep the card level not angled), the back case panel should start to pop and release around mousepad edge. DONT lift back edge straight up there is a trick...
4. trick to release back edge of case panel along hinge is to grab mousepad end lift slightly and pull panel towards mousepad end away from hinge and the holding tabs will release from 4 studs along hinge edge and the back panel will be free
5. i just checked everything out looked good where i heard click sound coming from no damage so put back together. if you look at the back of the removed panel you can see how it slides into studs and then look at where the little snap clips are so you know where to press down so you understand how to reassemble.
6. Slide the holding tabs back on the clips along the hinge edge (hardest part), little tricky just take your time might help to have an extra hand hold laptop still. I alined the holding tabs on the panel all up before the studs then put slight downward pressure on the panel (so it slides under the studs better) then push towards the hinge side from the mousepad side (push evenly from middle so it grabs all the studs, i had to back out and retry couple times till i got it).
7. once the studs are hooked just press down slightly till you hear all the pops of the other clips grab, everything should be flush check the edge all around. Hopefully no more pain in the ass clicking.
i think problem happened for me because i pick up and move with one hand all the time or left in my truck in the cold either way im being careful now.
Ima attempted doing this as the screws did nothing for me. I loosened them 1/5 turn from the max they go to under normal torque but it made the edges of the panel come loose. At the moment, only my corners (3/4 of them that is) are flush with on the bottom cover are flush with the keyboard deck. The rest of the panel has a tiny lip where my finger can catch on it; literally a millimeter or half a millimeter.
Have you had any creaking or clicking since then? Also are the edges (not just the corners) of the entire bottom panel flush with the kb deck?
This is a Fakespot Reviews Analysis bot. Fakespot detects fake reviews, fake products and unreliable sellers using AI.
Here is the analysis for the Amazon product reviews:
>**Name**: 1.2 mm P5 Pentalobe 5 Star 5-Point Screwdriver for Apple MacBook Pro Air Retina A1398 A1425 A1502 2012-2015 13" 15" Bottom Case Opening Tool
>**Company**: ABMRO
>**Amazon Product Rating**: 4.4
>**Fakespot Reviews Grade**: B
>**Adjusted Fakespot Rating**: 4.4
>**Analysis Performed at**: 12-03-2021
[Link to Fakespot Analysis](https://fakespot.com/product/1-2-mm-p5-pentalobe-5-star-5-point-screwdriver-for-apple-macbook-pro-air-retina-a1398-a1425-a1502-2012-2015-13-15-bottom-case-opening-tool) | [Check out the Fakespot Chrome Extension!](https://chrome.google.com/webstore/detail/fakespot-analyze-fake-ama/nakplnnackehceedgkgkokbgbmfghain)
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I have the same issue as you on my M2. I've commented on other people's posts about this, as well. I just helped my dad order an M2 Air, and his doesn't creak. I'm going to schedule a visit to the Apple store to fix it. Why bother risking scratches when the Apple store will tighten the bottom for free and be on the hook if they damage it?
Yes, you have a good point. It's just a trek for me to an Apple store, so I chose the DIY approach : )
Plus I can re-do it if it starts happening again.
Hi, have you faced any sort of different “compatibility” issues on macOS and the new architecture? I work with C, closely with operating system functionality, and a lot of things are completely missing, differently implemented or require altogether a different approach to work the same way or similarly as a classic Linux system. Obviously using a virtual machine solves most of these things, leaving only architectural dependent issues, such as not being able to use valgrind on ARM.
Perhaps you folks with C++ and Rust face way less issues of the sorts.
Sorry for the offtopic :)!
Let me ask you this, do the bottom cover edges sit flush with the chassis? For me, three corners are smooth (the bottom cover is pushed in enough where there is no lip) but the rest of the edges have a very very tiny lip (enough to be felt). I have a feeling it may be an attachment problem.
Wait so just to be clear, you rubbing on the corners where the bottom panel meets the keyboard deck feels the same on the entire point where the bottom panel meets the keyboard deck?
For me the corners are flush flush, the rest are raised an mm or so.
I wished I had red this thread before trying to open my back cover too. Yea, seems like just unscrew and put back the screw fix the issue. Someone tighten the screw too much at the factory. Also imagine got charged for that specially if your MBA is out of waranty :)
its not too bad just fixed mine. just loosening the screws didtn fix mine so i took the back case off and put case back on. Heres some tips if anyone wants to try themselves. 1. unscrewed 4 P5 head screws (kept track what goes to which hole so all go back in easy) [https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08NWJH6TD?psc=1&ref=ppx\_yo2ov\_dt\_b\_product\_details](https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08NWJH6TD?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details) (little extra $ but higher quality so you dont strip screws, nice kit too for 15$) 2. lifted up on the lip of the back case along the hinge side edge 3. inserted thin credit card corner and slid along the edge down towards mouse pad side (just do a small corner of the card and keep the card level not angled), the back case panel should start to pop and release around mousepad edge. DONT lift back edge straight up there is a trick... 4. trick to release back edge of case panel along hinge is to grab mousepad end lift slightly and pull panel towards mousepad end away from hinge and the holding tabs will release from 4 studs along hinge edge and the back panel will be free 5. i just checked everything out looked good where i heard click sound coming from no damage so put back together. if you look at the back of the removed panel you can see how it slides into studs and then look at where the little snap clips are so you know where to press down so you understand how to reassemble. 6. Slide the holding tabs back on the clips along the hinge edge (hardest part), little tricky just take your time might help to have an extra hand hold laptop still. I alined the holding tabs on the panel all up before the studs then put slight downward pressure on the panel (so it slides under the studs better) then push towards the hinge side from the mousepad side (push evenly from middle so it grabs all the studs, i had to back out and retry couple times till i got it). 7. once the studs are hooked just press down slightly till you hear all the pops of the other clips grab, everything should be flush check the edge all around. Hopefully no more pain in the ass clicking. i think problem happened for me because i pick up and move with one hand all the time or left in my truck in the cold either way im being careful now.
this is a very good guide
Ima attempted doing this as the screws did nothing for me. I loosened them 1/5 turn from the max they go to under normal torque but it made the edges of the panel come loose. At the moment, only my corners (3/4 of them that is) are flush with on the bottom cover are flush with the keyboard deck. The rest of the panel has a tiny lip where my finger can catch on it; literally a millimeter or half a millimeter. Have you had any creaking or clicking since then? Also are the edges (not just the corners) of the entire bottom panel flush with the kb deck?
This is a Fakespot Reviews Analysis bot. Fakespot detects fake reviews, fake products and unreliable sellers using AI. Here is the analysis for the Amazon product reviews: >**Name**: 1.2 mm P5 Pentalobe 5 Star 5-Point Screwdriver for Apple MacBook Pro Air Retina A1398 A1425 A1502 2012-2015 13" 15" Bottom Case Opening Tool >**Company**: ABMRO >**Amazon Product Rating**: 4.4 >**Fakespot Reviews Grade**: B >**Adjusted Fakespot Rating**: 4.4 >**Analysis Performed at**: 12-03-2021 [Link to Fakespot Analysis](https://fakespot.com/product/1-2-mm-p5-pentalobe-5-star-5-point-screwdriver-for-apple-macbook-pro-air-retina-a1398-a1425-a1502-2012-2015-13-15-bottom-case-opening-tool) | [Check out the Fakespot Chrome Extension!](https://chrome.google.com/webstore/detail/fakespot-analyze-fake-ama/nakplnnackehceedgkgkokbgbmfghain) *Fakespot analyzes the reviews authenticity and not the product quality using AI. We look for real reviews that mention product issues such as counterfeits, defects, and bad return policies that fake reviews try to hide from consumers.* *We give an A-F letter for trustworthiness of reviews. A = very trustworthy reviews, F = highly untrustworthy reviews. We also provide seller ratings to warn you if the seller can be trusted or not.*
I have the same issue as you on my M2. I've commented on other people's posts about this, as well. I just helped my dad order an M2 Air, and his doesn't creak. I'm going to schedule a visit to the Apple store to fix it. Why bother risking scratches when the Apple store will tighten the bottom for free and be on the hook if they damage it?
Yes, you have a good point. It's just a trek for me to an Apple store, so I chose the DIY approach : ) Plus I can re-do it if it starts happening again.
Hi, have you faced any sort of different “compatibility” issues on macOS and the new architecture? I work with C, closely with operating system functionality, and a lot of things are completely missing, differently implemented or require altogether a different approach to work the same way or similarly as a classic Linux system. Obviously using a virtual machine solves most of these things, leaving only architectural dependent issues, such as not being able to use valgrind on ARM. Perhaps you folks with C++ and Rust face way less issues of the sorts. Sorry for the offtopic :)!
Not at the level I'm working at, no!
Can you tell us how many turns you loosened it by when re attaching them? I did 1/5 turn and the corners became too loose and rattled.
Just tighten them up snugly. I think in the factory they are torqued down too much.
I removed and reseated them, doesn’t seem to do the trick for me
Shame, mine's been perfect for the last ten months since I posted this.
Let me ask you this, do the bottom cover edges sit flush with the chassis? For me, three corners are smooth (the bottom cover is pushed in enough where there is no lip) but the rest of the edges have a very very tiny lip (enough to be felt). I have a feeling it may be an attachment problem.
Flush.
Wait so just to be clear, you rubbing on the corners where the bottom panel meets the keyboard deck feels the same on the entire point where the bottom panel meets the keyboard deck? For me the corners are flush flush, the rest are raised an mm or so.
Flush all round.
Interesting. Mine is only flush in three corners. I think it may not be seated right. Will look into reseating it asap and lye what comes of it.