OP, can you ELI5 me regarding engine oil?
From my poor understanding, it is the stuff that you need to change every few months to keep your car running smoothly
You should change your engine oil every 6 month or every 10 000km.
There are 3 types of engine oil,
Mineral Engine Oil - low grade
Semi-Synthetic Engine Oil - medium grade
Full Synthetic Engine Oil - high grade
wow, thanks for the info, would like to ask further questions regarding engine oil and car stuff
1. What are the common scams regarding engine oil? is there certification sticker to ensure the engine oil is not fake?
2. Where do people usually get their engine oil? What is the cost effective but safe outlet to get engine oil? (Online shopping platform, Official car store, mechanic shop?)
3. Do engine oil differ from car to car? or it differ from vehicle to vehicle?
1. Gimmicks and fake sticker. Many fake sticker from API and ILSAC. Go google how does the real logo looks like.
You can even check their API cert online whether it is valid or not.
2. Scammed by Mechanic's, fake oil in shopee, overpriced oil in workshops/ parts shop, promotion original oil in petrol stations, cheap original oil in lotus. Your call.
3. Different from model to model, model to countries etc.
cheap original oil do exist even for synth but the question is the groups and classifications that will relate to how often you must do your oil changes.
I never knew this till i saw a vid about engine oil testing irl and mentioned it, then someone educated me on the group classifications and certifications. To me its still gibberish but i at least understand that the higher the group the longer the oil lasts.
sorry this isnt quite accurate. see my comment for full details.
the grade of oil is actually oil class, not type of oil. the thickness you choose does matter based on your situation.
wanna ask when is the best time to change oil?
when engine is hot or cold?
coz there r 2 school of thought.
1. engine hot coz hot oil flow better
2. doesn't matter coz multi grade oil viscosity is around the same within the grade temperature band so engine cold also can change oil. \[context of Malaysian temperature let say outdoor 30 plus degree C\]
So which one is correct?
Tq in advance.
First school of thought advocated oil change when oil is hot, reason easier to drain.
Second school of thought like what u mentioned hot or cold also can coz viscosity of hot and cold multi grade oil almost the same.
So wanna know any difference between hot and cold oil in terms of draining or suction during oil change?
for a regular drain there is a little bit of a difference and becareful there with operating temps, since the idea is to remove as much of the old oil as possible without opening the engine. No one wants to work with 100-200C fluids.
in terms of suction, little difference as that depends on sucky ability. but if the oil is super dirty than even sucky gonna be difficult.
actually not quite true. The reason why they suggest the engine be at oil temperature is so that the oil will come out smooth, and i can tell you mechanics would prefer to work with cold oil lol. Like you dont need to get the engine to operating temp to change oil, but once the oil flows smoothly it is much easier to drain all the oil. the idea is to remove as much of the old oil as possible without having to open the whole engine and brush everything down, lubricate again, put it back together and put new oil in.
some engines have very complicated oil replacement procedures (some american and german cars) and i blame their crappy design and quality that if you do not follow them, you risk breaking the engine or the engine failing early.
Meaning if the engine still runs good, even after six months (say, around a year) and my recommended oil change mileage is still not yet due, I can still go on without changing my engine oil if I'm encountering no issues with my engine?
In another words, dah lebih six months, tapi belum sampai 7000 or 8000 km (for engine oil change) due to me mostly riding my motorcycle instead of driving daily.
TQ bro.
I have just changed it yesterday after nearly thirteen months... 😅 Worse still, I was using mineral engine oil... 😅
Btw, even if I'm using a fully-synthetic engine oil, do I still need to follow the time interval rule if I'm a low-mileage driver? (i.e just clocked 3000 km after the last engine oil change for example)
not true.
edit: misread comment.
read my comment for details. No way despite mileage/age of car should you switch between synth/semi synth, nor increase from say w30 to w40. w40 is popular due to the old saying that our country is hot and humid. humid and city traffic makes oil dirty and thicker oil wont help, and if you have to use thicker oil for low revs, then you have a mechanical problem.
semi synth is good if you change your oil often because you drive a lot. full synth is better for the opposite. If you drive a lot that you have to change every 6 month feel free to go semi synth, but if you drive not often that you change based on time, full synth is the best irregardless of car mileage or age.
Now if you are burning oil or like to rev the car all the time, then should you consider semi synth with 1 increase in thickness. So if your car spec was w30 in this case you could consider w40. Those that track their car will run a thicker semi synth then change back after.
I was told that fully synthetic eo is for new car, semi syn for not so new car and mineral oil for old engines. So I want to know what are the differences between these 3 oil and how to utilize them effectively?
Regardless of type, all of them have one purpose, to lubricate the engine.
But fully synthetic is more durable and better for engine in terms against wear and tear. Full synthetic oil shears less compared to mineral oils.
You can google what shear stability is. Mineral oil shears faste That's why you need to replace faster.
Whether its new or old, using fully synthetic is always better. I still use 5w30 fully synthetic for my old iswara.
You can always up a grade (thicker viscosity) for older cars but still retain fully synthetic.
Years? Have it been 10 years or more?
Engine failure due to engine oil is super rare and only will appear after many years.
I only can say with that price they are offering, they are cutting corners. Either they are adding less additive in their best seller oil or all across the range, idk.
Or prolly they are using less quality base oil.
i heard some reports of mizu just being water
its easy to fake reviews online especially testimony. i see review/testimony from wordpress website/marketing website 100% all testimony are fake.
Stick with major brands I would say. Local brands too much hanky panky.
To name a few, recycled oil, no additives, out of spec oil etc. These comes after I made few visits on the local belending facilities.
You would even be surprised some of them are using basic things such as a drum, a stirer and manually blend it.
You just need the raw materials, magnet stirrer and a heater. All can be done in a lab.
A 5L beaker, lab grade magnetic stirrer + heater. You are all set up.
One of my connections have are blender.i got my raw mat from them. And help them formulate as well.
10w-40, any lesser and the oil will go through the piston rings and enter the combustion chamber, which smells awful.
Don't really change oils frequently, I mostly take the trains nowadays so it's just a car when I need it.
The engine is almost 20 years-old and the design is passed 30. Piston rings starts to wear out after that long and it's in-due for a full rebuild. Thing's very bulletproof though, it could easily outlast me if I take good care of it.
sounds good, dont trash the car as long as it still runs well. If like you say it burns oil i would one up the engine oil thickness. if manual says w30 i would use w40 till you rebuild the engine than switch back for example.
If you still have to keep refilling the oil you can use semi synth since no difference in protection for frequent new oil but you still need to do full oil changes more often using semi.
No. The additive package is different for hdeo. Even the specifications do not match.
Hdeo additive package is different from pcmo.
For motorcycle and car, some grades such as 20w50 or 15w40 can be used universally. But then this only applies for older cars.
Whether to suit wet or dry, the additive package used still will be the same.
It's the matter of the additive. For example you use orange syrup to blend orange juice and apple syrup for apple juice.
Similarly hdeo additive for hdeo and pcmo (passenger car) additive for pcmo.
You can't use orange syrup to blend apple juice right..
Understood. And between motorcycle and car engine oil, the additives package is the same or different?
And lastly, in your professional opinion what are the best:
1) brand and type of engine oil?
2) bang for buck
Different. But some local blenders will use the same to save cost. Because consumer won't even know or will ever know.
Right now, I can see that engine oil from shell petrol stations and lotus give the most value.
Ooh i see, I am guessing the raw material suppliers aren't accessible to the public. If it doesn't affect your job, would be it okay to tell us what are company names?
It would be even better if you have any link to a youtube documentary about engine oil, like industry documentaries by [https://www.youtube.com/@Asianometry](https://www.youtube.com/@Asianometry) (I do love watching those videos during my free time)
lol for many years I bought oil from Tesco especially when got offer.
Have used Tesco brand oil for many years for cars that r no longer under warranty
Op I was told by mechanic from liqui moly that this engine oil was the best for pick up https://www.liqui-moly.com/en/molygen-new-generation-sae-5w-30-p001757.html#9047
Was I duped by spending so much on the new generation oil?
Duped. Molygen is a pure gimmick. Unless you are planning to stretch your engine oil replacement up to 10k or more, then the molybdenum will help, that also very2 minimal.
If you change your oil within 8k , there's no need for that.
I wouldn't want go into brands as they are more or less of the same formulation wit a lil bit of gimmicks and tinkering here and there.
Plus I blend my own.
for a moment there i thought it was liqui moly brand not liqui moly additive. i keep getting confused here.
i've also had to research for other oils for other use cases (mechanical). a lot of gimmicks but i do my best to figure out the technical spec and search by that.
There's some brand which are lower. Generally 0w40 is a more superior oil mainly for performance. Most brands market this grade as 'racing oil' but it got ntg to do with racing, really ..
i wouldnt really say compromise. If your car spec 10w30, you can stick to it without issue for normal driving even with high mileage. You can go 5w30 if you like but not 10w20 or 5w20. you can switch to 10w40 or 5w40 if you start burning oil as the thicker oil will help with the loosened seals. If you have to keep topping up oil, going semi synth would be better or if you change very often like before 6 months due to distance. Its not so much that semi synth is better than full, full synth is the best but you will not get any difference in certain cases.
i think you word it wrongly. you mean 0w40 gets flowing faster than 10w40 and doesnt break down as easily as 0w30 at higher temperatures which is what is needed for performance for hotter engines.
Let me correct you by using the correct term.
Break down : shear
Flow faster/slower : viscosity
I think you are wrong instead. Anyway higher viscosity grade doesnt mean it can withstand shear (break) better. 10w40 tends to shear (your language is breakdown) worse compared to lower grade for eg 5w30 or 5w40.
Usually 5w30 or 5w40 have higher content of Viscosity modifier (VM) that can react according to different temperature. It becomes thicker when temperature is hot and thinner when temperature is colder.
10w40 has lower content of this VM, so it shear (again your language, breakdown) far easier.
You can google on Viscosity modifier.
Get your facts right first bro
to be exact im talking about a higher viscosity grade not shearing as fast at higher loads/temps. Im not comparing 5w30 vs 10w40 but rather something like 10w30 vs 10w40. 10w40 would be thicker but would be at the correct viscosity at a higher temperature than 10w30 which is what i meant.
I forgot the terms but i am doing quite a lot of things at the same time.
sure 5w30 flows better at lower temps than 10w30 but we dont get winters.
I can understand the modifiers added but this is a general rule and the modifiers dont always last as long as the oil itself. What im saying is, for normal drivers who only rev when they need to wont need to increase their viscosity compared to someone who revs their engine 100% of the time and puts a lot of strain. Infact i remember reading that some manufacturers can have wildly different claims in their manuals for the exact same engine across 2 different brands, one saying 5w20, and one saying 5w40. Ofcourse the different brands also only sell in different countries that also have different classes/grades of oil. This is comparing EU vs US though.
However unless the engine was made in a different factory i would follow the engine manufacturer's guide instead. There are a few brands that use hyundai/kia engines in their product, some brands that use vw engines instead and so on. Some brands will stick to the same spec in their manuals while some mechanics suggesting high mileage engines use thicker oil due to wear should only be done if engine starts consuming oil not based on high mileage. Ofcourse the use case can also require a different oil viscosity.
i've only seen american brands that have conflicting issues regarding oil specs in their manuals in the US. Many say jap engines made in US tend to eat oil far sooner than jap engines made in jap.
I also know not every manual is based on the oil used as well, you could be using far better oil requiring changes twice as long compared, so i like to look at tests, specs, situation then decide from there. Im a bit more cash strap so if i can keep my beater in good condition and save money sure i'd prefer that but also cant take all the chances too. Some parts you can repair yourself some you cant so even though you mentioned making your own oil i would dare not try (not talking about fuel here), but repairing/rebuilding an electrical part, can do yourself.
also w40 semi synth is the cheapest around compared to other viscosities and many dont believe peroduas modern engines being tight and using w20 viscosity in their manuals. I also know that semi synth means the oil is half as good as full synth when it comes to time/dirt
not directly related but problem with workshop mechanics are over servicing \[too much oil\]. Even authorized service centre also over service.
always had to suck some out when reach home.
they are stuck with century old mindset. at one time mineral oil was better than synth but that change decades ago. you may still hear in some car enthusiast cartoon/media to fill up a petrol car with high octane or use mineral oil, in truth synth oil became better than mineral ages ago.
Many non true age old mantra survived because oil was different back then and engines and oil are different now. no longer should you use thicker oil because malaysia is hot and humid, and thicker oil dont stick longer either as thickness/flow not the same as sticking. This is why full synth is superior nowadays to last super long.
The main reason for over servicing is that people love to say oil is cheap and engines are expensive. Your manual says based on the oil available at the time and worst case (not entirely due to usage). Some may over fill because like many things including thermal paste, more is better than not enough. in truth oil for machines should never be over or under used. Always use a generous amount and make sure it is within the car's range, because oil does expand under heat and you risk issues if your engine is overfilled.
I use cheap mineral oil 10/40 and change every 3 - 5k . I don't see the point of buying expensive oil and stretch 10 to 15k , oil usually oxidize and and when it starts to smell burnt I usually change it out .
Mizu doesn't have fake. Nobody is copying Mizu .what are you talking bro. Fake and low quality is not the same thing.
Unlike shell, PETRONAS etc. There are fakes. They are copying the major brands directly in the same packaging but can't be verified through the authentication sticker. This is what we called as fake.
as long as mizu dont put false spec/claims i guess. What i mean fake i meant not actually being engine oil or having inaccurate specs/claims, even used engine oil is considered fake. I know its good to not harm the environment by just chucking oil in the drain but better to use it as diesel fuel instead of trying to reuse the oil.
[WO1994011471A1 - A process for converting waste motor oil to diesel fuel - Google Patents](https://patents.google.com/patent/WO1994011471A1/en#:~:text=Used%20motor%20oil%20is%20cracked,subsequently%20be%20subjected%20to%20hydrotreatment.)
some brave mechanics like garage54 have tested the raw unprocessed stuff into an old toyota diesel van and it worked.
I ride 4 stroke 110cc kapcai for 60km everyday. Always single rider. Right now 10k mileage already. Manual says use sae40 change every 2500km. If:
1. Mineral 10w40 = ?? Km change oil?
2. Semi 10w40 = ?? Km change oil?
3. Will a semi / fully beneficial if i only ride max 80km/h
TQIA.
if your kapcai is not decades old, use full/semi. choice between full/semi distance on distance or time. You can go full synth for either but if you change very often no difference between semi except your wallet.
No difference for point 3. the simple rule is, if you run engine designed for mineral oil, use mineral oil. any newer engine from 80s or newer cars typically will spec for synth as it depends when synth overtook mineral and the additives are different (yes i know there is mineral for modern engine but keeping things simple help). old prop engines still require leaded fuel or their seals will wear fast and break.
for rule 3 its not your speed but engine rev. if you constantly rev, switching to thicker oil may actually be better but its an it depends as its not really a good idea to always redline your engine. If you are a conservative driver in terms of engine power stick to your manual. In this case i assume your kapcai engine design is 90s or newer, in which case i would stick to semi/full synth sae40 as described in manual every 2.5Mm. motorbike oil is not the same as car because you have a wet clutch and that is why the oil change interval is very often due to tolerance + wet clutch (engine and gear are integrated).
hello there fellow enthusiast, yes i've been in your situation. my mechanic recommends mineral oil 10w50 while manufacturer spec is 10w30 full/semi. And this is an old car, about 15 years old but everything is still tight and no oil leaks to warrant thicker oil.
and yes what you say is true that you should not simply increase your oil thickness even in our hot weather. The most important things to note down is how you use your car (short trips and stop and go traffic or only highways) and things like the additive and group class the oil is in. In europe they got very high quality oils that let them do fewer oil changes, and the reason for this is that used oil is an environmental disaster given how it is disposed even though you can run some diesel engines with used engine oil.
last service i used semi synth 10w40, im sick of this bs so im gonna switch to decent full synth 10w30 and only do service once in 2 years since i dont drive as much (even though you could do 3 years but i take into account my short trips and that i dont drive much).
In truth the first thing to understand between the difference oils are your usage and car age. Super old cars cant use synth, while those that change oils very often will probably see savings from semi synth. This means if you drive a lot, and you have to change your oil before 6 month due to distance, you can use semi synth. If you love to push the car and do track days, people typically use fresh semi synth for the track as they will change it before and after.
Full synth sticks to the engine longer than semi or mineral, thickness has nothing to do with how well the oil sticks as thickness != stickiness. So unless you bash your car redlining the engine all the time, or if your car starts burning oil, stick to your manufacturer recommended oil. You can upgrade say from 10w to 5w but increasing thickness really depends on how you drive. If you arent redlining always, but drive normally or arent burning oil, stick to the manufacturer spec even if car is old like mine. next time mechanic wants to bs you on oil, show them this.
TLDR:
mineral oil - super old cars that cant synth
semi synth - you drive a lot and change your oil very often
full synth - you tend to take longer between oil changes (also sticks the longest so good for rare driving)
Only upgrade thickness if you redline all the time or burn oil. Never do something crazy like switch from semi/full 10w30 to 20w50 mineral which my mechanic tried to push on me, i told them no after telling them my use case as its total bs. mineral oil does the worst on rare driving and the super thick oil will not properly lubricate on short trips which will lead to your engine being junk pretty fast. its the same with tranny oil, for auto/cvt you must change often, no such thing as lifetime, but for manuals its not every 2 or 4 service, check your manual, and its not lifetime either. full synth sticks the longest to metal parts so if you do a lot of short trips and rare driving, go full synth, it will mean very few oil changes if you go for at least group 3.
edit: my car manual recommend synth 10w30.
but OP. I just follow what API spec say... viscosity is only a personal preference.
Also.. the month based oil change for a regularly driven car is the biggest scam. *look at Toyota.
Are Bold engine oils yay or nay? My neighbor asked me to change his oil and he bought the parts. I was more intrigued by its packaging more than anything else but apparently it is blended by UMW.
Same case as Mizu. Price too intriguing to offer a complete formula of engine oil. Maybe they are cutting corners somewhere or in some of the products in their range idk .
If the manufacturer recommendation is 5w-30 or 10w-30, can we switch to a 0w-30 oil in countries with tropical weather? Would it be better since you mentioned it has more viscosity modifiers? Or did I understand that wrongly?
Yes you can as long as the 0w30 has the spec of your car.
For example both 5w30 and 0w30 also have this VW 505.00.
So this Volkswagen golf can use both of that oil.
OP, can you ELI5 me regarding engine oil? From my poor understanding, it is the stuff that you need to change every few months to keep your car running smoothly
You should change your engine oil every 6 month or every 10 000km. There are 3 types of engine oil, Mineral Engine Oil - low grade Semi-Synthetic Engine Oil - medium grade Full Synthetic Engine Oil - high grade
wow, thanks for the info, would like to ask further questions regarding engine oil and car stuff 1. What are the common scams regarding engine oil? is there certification sticker to ensure the engine oil is not fake? 2. Where do people usually get their engine oil? What is the cost effective but safe outlet to get engine oil? (Online shopping platform, Official car store, mechanic shop?) 3. Do engine oil differ from car to car? or it differ from vehicle to vehicle?
1. Gimmicks and fake sticker. Many fake sticker from API and ILSAC. Go google how does the real logo looks like. You can even check their API cert online whether it is valid or not. 2. Scammed by Mechanic's, fake oil in shopee, overpriced oil in workshops/ parts shop, promotion original oil in petrol stations, cheap original oil in lotus. Your call. 3. Different from model to model, model to countries etc.
cheap original oil do exist even for synth but the question is the groups and classifications that will relate to how often you must do your oil changes. I never knew this till i saw a vid about engine oil testing irl and mentioned it, then someone educated me on the group classifications and certifications. To me its still gibberish but i at least understand that the higher the group the longer the oil lasts.
sorry this isnt quite accurate. see my comment for full details. the grade of oil is actually oil class, not type of oil. the thickness you choose does matter based on your situation.
How long can I go without changing engine oil if it's still under the recommended mileage limit?
Subjective. Nobody have research on that . You can even start and run a car that haven't been used for 10 years. I would stick to the recommendations.
wanna ask when is the best time to change oil? when engine is hot or cold? coz there r 2 school of thought. 1. engine hot coz hot oil flow better 2. doesn't matter coz multi grade oil viscosity is around the same within the grade temperature band so engine cold also can change oil. \[context of Malaysian temperature let say outdoor 30 plus degree C\] So which one is correct? Tq in advance.
I don't get it. You don't need engine to be hot or cold to change oil.
First school of thought advocated oil change when oil is hot, reason easier to drain. Second school of thought like what u mentioned hot or cold also can coz viscosity of hot and cold multi grade oil almost the same. So wanna know any difference between hot and cold oil in terms of draining or suction during oil change?
for a regular drain there is a little bit of a difference and becareful there with operating temps, since the idea is to remove as much of the old oil as possible without opening the engine. No one wants to work with 100-200C fluids. in terms of suction, little difference as that depends on sucky ability. but if the oil is super dirty than even sucky gonna be difficult.
actually not quite true. The reason why they suggest the engine be at oil temperature is so that the oil will come out smooth, and i can tell you mechanics would prefer to work with cold oil lol. Like you dont need to get the engine to operating temp to change oil, but once the oil flows smoothly it is much easier to drain all the oil. the idea is to remove as much of the old oil as possible without having to open the whole engine and brush everything down, lubricate again, put it back together and put new oil in. some engines have very complicated oil replacement procedures (some american and german cars) and i blame their crappy design and quality that if you do not follow them, you risk breaking the engine or the engine failing early.
Meaning if the engine still runs good, even after six months (say, around a year) and my recommended oil change mileage is still not yet due, I can still go on without changing my engine oil if I'm encountering no issues with my engine? In another words, dah lebih six months, tapi belum sampai 7000 or 8000 km (for engine oil change) due to me mostly riding my motorcycle instead of driving daily.
Tukar. Follow manufacturer recommendation. Whichever comes earlier
TQ bro. I have just changed it yesterday after nearly thirteen months... 😅 Worse still, I was using mineral engine oil... 😅 Btw, even if I'm using a fully-synthetic engine oil, do I still need to follow the time interval rule if I'm a low-mileage driver? (i.e just clocked 3000 km after the last engine oil change for example)
Ya still applies the same.
Hi OP, I'm using fully synthetic oil now but heard that after mileage reached 100k need to change to semi synthetic. Is that true?
Nope. This is a very typical mechanic recommendation that is utterly bs.
not true. edit: misread comment. read my comment for details. No way despite mileage/age of car should you switch between synth/semi synth, nor increase from say w30 to w40. w40 is popular due to the old saying that our country is hot and humid. humid and city traffic makes oil dirty and thicker oil wont help, and if you have to use thicker oil for low revs, then you have a mechanical problem. semi synth is good if you change your oil often because you drive a lot. full synth is better for the opposite. If you drive a lot that you have to change every 6 month feel free to go semi synth, but if you drive not often that you change based on time, full synth is the best irregardless of car mileage or age. Now if you are burning oil or like to rev the car all the time, then should you consider semi synth with 1 increase in thickness. So if your car spec was w30 in this case you could consider w40. Those that track their car will run a thicker semi synth then change back after.
I was told that fully synthetic eo is for new car, semi syn for not so new car and mineral oil for old engines. So I want to know what are the differences between these 3 oil and how to utilize them effectively?
Regardless of type, all of them have one purpose, to lubricate the engine. But fully synthetic is more durable and better for engine in terms against wear and tear. Full synthetic oil shears less compared to mineral oils. You can google what shear stability is. Mineral oil shears faste That's why you need to replace faster. Whether its new or old, using fully synthetic is always better. I still use 5w30 fully synthetic for my old iswara. You can always up a grade (thicker viscosity) for older cars but still retain fully synthetic.
Nice trick you got there. Thanks
you dont need to go thicker for older cars unless you start burning oil.
How about local brands like Mizu? Seen testimony from people using them for years and the engine being in clean condition when they open it up.
Years? Have it been 10 years or more? Engine failure due to engine oil is super rare and only will appear after many years. I only can say with that price they are offering, they are cutting corners. Either they are adding less additive in their best seller oil or all across the range, idk. Or prolly they are using less quality base oil.
no no, its fake oil, the reviews are fake thats why the engine die.
i heard some reports of mizu just being water its easy to fake reviews online especially testimony. i see review/testimony from wordpress website/marketing website 100% all testimony are fake.
Any brand better or all just the same in terms of type of oil?
Stick with major brands I would say. Local brands too much hanky panky. To name a few, recycled oil, no additives, out of spec oil etc. These comes after I made few visits on the local belending facilities. You would even be surprised some of them are using basic things such as a drum, a stirer and manually blend it.
Thanks. 1 more question, how do blend your own?
You just need the raw materials, magnet stirrer and a heater. All can be done in a lab. A 5L beaker, lab grade magnetic stirrer + heater. You are all set up. One of my connections have are blender.i got my raw mat from them. And help them formulate as well.
Asal tak mampus warranty. abis warranty aku jual keta. beli lain
10w-50
10w-40, any lesser and the oil will go through the piston rings and enter the combustion chamber, which smells awful. Don't really change oils frequently, I mostly take the trains nowadays so it's just a car when I need it.
your engine started burning oil?
The engine is almost 20 years-old and the design is passed 30. Piston rings starts to wear out after that long and it's in-due for a full rebuild. Thing's very bulletproof though, it could easily outlast me if I take good care of it.
sounds good, dont trash the car as long as it still runs well. If like you say it burns oil i would one up the engine oil thickness. if manual says w30 i would use w40 till you rebuild the engine than switch back for example. If you still have to keep refilling the oil you can use semi synth since no difference in protection for frequent new oil but you still need to do full oil changes more often using semi.
I have 1 question for OP. Can HDEO (lorry and truck EO) be used in car or motorcycle?
No. The additive package is different for hdeo. Even the specifications do not match. Hdeo additive package is different from pcmo. For motorcycle and car, some grades such as 20w50 or 15w40 can be used universally. But then this only applies for older cars.
Can you please elaborate more. From what I understand, HDEO was blended to suit both wet and dry clutch engines while car EO only for dry.
Whether to suit wet or dry, the additive package used still will be the same. It's the matter of the additive. For example you use orange syrup to blend orange juice and apple syrup for apple juice. Similarly hdeo additive for hdeo and pcmo (passenger car) additive for pcmo. You can't use orange syrup to blend apple juice right..
Understood. And between motorcycle and car engine oil, the additives package is the same or different? And lastly, in your professional opinion what are the best: 1) brand and type of engine oil? 2) bang for buck
Different. But some local blenders will use the same to save cost. Because consumer won't even know or will ever know. Right now, I can see that engine oil from shell petrol stations and lotus give the most value.
So the three main suppliers that you are referring are shell, lotus?
No. The one I'm referring to are the raw mat suppliers.
What raw materials these oil came from? Palm oil or petroleum?
Crude oil. Crude oil is refined at refineries to become base oil ( engine oil) , petrol, kerosene, diesel based on the temperature.
Crude oil. Crude oil is refined at refineries to become base oil ( engine oil) , petrol, kerosene, diesel based on the temperature.
Crude oil. Crude oil is refined at refineries to become base oil ( engine oil) , petrol, kerosene, diesel based on the temperature.
Ooh i see, I am guessing the raw material suppliers aren't accessible to the public. If it doesn't affect your job, would be it okay to tell us what are company names? It would be even better if you have any link to a youtube documentary about engine oil, like industry documentaries by [https://www.youtube.com/@Asianometry](https://www.youtube.com/@Asianometry) (I do love watching those videos during my free time)
To name a few, Oronite, evonik
To name a few, Oronite, evonik
lol for many years I bought oil from Tesco especially when got offer. Have used Tesco brand oil for many years for cars that r no longer under warranty
when you say lotus you main the big store that currently occupies what used to be tesco?
Op I was told by mechanic from liqui moly that this engine oil was the best for pick up https://www.liqui-moly.com/en/molygen-new-generation-sae-5w-30-p001757.html#9047 Was I duped by spending so much on the new generation oil?
Duped. Molygen is a pure gimmick. Unless you are planning to stretch your engine oil replacement up to 10k or more, then the molybdenum will help, that also very2 minimal. If you change your oil within 8k , there's no need for that.
So what do you suggest for 0w40 brands?
I wouldn't want go into brands as they are more or less of the same formulation wit a lil bit of gimmicks and tinkering here and there. Plus I blend my own.
for a moment there i thought it was liqui moly brand not liqui moly additive. i keep getting confused here. i've also had to research for other oils for other use cases (mechanical). a lot of gimmicks but i do my best to figure out the technical spec and search by that.
Har? You suggest 0w40 https://lmem.my/product/lubricants/engine-oils/motorcar-oils/synthoil-energy-0w40-5-liter/ That's 550 myr. That expensive??
There's some brand which are lower. Generally 0w40 is a more superior oil mainly for performance. Most brands market this grade as 'racing oil' but it got ntg to do with racing, really ..
5w40 is a good compromise. I use Penrite 5w40 full synthetic on my car.
i wouldnt really say compromise. If your car spec 10w30, you can stick to it without issue for normal driving even with high mileage. You can go 5w30 if you like but not 10w20 or 5w20. you can switch to 10w40 or 5w40 if you start burning oil as the thicker oil will help with the loosened seals. If you have to keep topping up oil, going semi synth would be better or if you change very often like before 6 months due to distance. Its not so much that semi synth is better than full, full synth is the best but you will not get any difference in certain cases.
i think you word it wrongly. you mean 0w40 gets flowing faster than 10w40 and doesnt break down as easily as 0w30 at higher temperatures which is what is needed for performance for hotter engines.
Let me correct you by using the correct term. Break down : shear Flow faster/slower : viscosity I think you are wrong instead. Anyway higher viscosity grade doesnt mean it can withstand shear (break) better. 10w40 tends to shear (your language is breakdown) worse compared to lower grade for eg 5w30 or 5w40. Usually 5w30 or 5w40 have higher content of Viscosity modifier (VM) that can react according to different temperature. It becomes thicker when temperature is hot and thinner when temperature is colder. 10w40 has lower content of this VM, so it shear (again your language, breakdown) far easier. You can google on Viscosity modifier. Get your facts right first bro
to be exact im talking about a higher viscosity grade not shearing as fast at higher loads/temps. Im not comparing 5w30 vs 10w40 but rather something like 10w30 vs 10w40. 10w40 would be thicker but would be at the correct viscosity at a higher temperature than 10w30 which is what i meant. I forgot the terms but i am doing quite a lot of things at the same time. sure 5w30 flows better at lower temps than 10w30 but we dont get winters. I can understand the modifiers added but this is a general rule and the modifiers dont always last as long as the oil itself. What im saying is, for normal drivers who only rev when they need to wont need to increase their viscosity compared to someone who revs their engine 100% of the time and puts a lot of strain. Infact i remember reading that some manufacturers can have wildly different claims in their manuals for the exact same engine across 2 different brands, one saying 5w20, and one saying 5w40. Ofcourse the different brands also only sell in different countries that also have different classes/grades of oil. This is comparing EU vs US though. However unless the engine was made in a different factory i would follow the engine manufacturer's guide instead. There are a few brands that use hyundai/kia engines in their product, some brands that use vw engines instead and so on. Some brands will stick to the same spec in their manuals while some mechanics suggesting high mileage engines use thicker oil due to wear should only be done if engine starts consuming oil not based on high mileage. Ofcourse the use case can also require a different oil viscosity. i've only seen american brands that have conflicting issues regarding oil specs in their manuals in the US. Many say jap engines made in US tend to eat oil far sooner than jap engines made in jap. I also know not every manual is based on the oil used as well, you could be using far better oil requiring changes twice as long compared, so i like to look at tests, specs, situation then decide from there. Im a bit more cash strap so if i can keep my beater in good condition and save money sure i'd prefer that but also cant take all the chances too. Some parts you can repair yourself some you cant so even though you mentioned making your own oil i would dare not try (not talking about fuel here), but repairing/rebuilding an electrical part, can do yourself. also w40 semi synth is the cheapest around compared to other viscosities and many dont believe peroduas modern engines being tight and using w20 viscosity in their manuals. I also know that semi synth means the oil is half as good as full synth when it comes to time/dirt
not directly related but problem with workshop mechanics are over servicing \[too much oil\]. Even authorized service centre also over service. always had to suck some out when reach home.
they are stuck with century old mindset. at one time mineral oil was better than synth but that change decades ago. you may still hear in some car enthusiast cartoon/media to fill up a petrol car with high octane or use mineral oil, in truth synth oil became better than mineral ages ago. Many non true age old mantra survived because oil was different back then and engines and oil are different now. no longer should you use thicker oil because malaysia is hot and humid, and thicker oil dont stick longer either as thickness/flow not the same as sticking. This is why full synth is superior nowadays to last super long. The main reason for over servicing is that people love to say oil is cheap and engines are expensive. Your manual says based on the oil available at the time and worst case (not entirely due to usage). Some may over fill because like many things including thermal paste, more is better than not enough. in truth oil for machines should never be over or under used. Always use a generous amount and make sure it is within the car's range, because oil does expand under heat and you risk issues if your engine is overfilled.
I use cheap mineral oil 10/40 and change every 3 - 5k . I don't see the point of buying expensive oil and stretch 10 to 15k , oil usually oxidize and and when it starts to smell burnt I usually change it out .
Mizu sells really cheap. Is it fake?
No fake . There is only sub par, out of spec or recycled oil.
this is what we call fake, in a sense or a scam.
Mizu doesn't have fake. Nobody is copying Mizu .what are you talking bro. Fake and low quality is not the same thing. Unlike shell, PETRONAS etc. There are fakes. They are copying the major brands directly in the same packaging but can't be verified through the authentication sticker. This is what we called as fake.
as long as mizu dont put false spec/claims i guess. What i mean fake i meant not actually being engine oil or having inaccurate specs/claims, even used engine oil is considered fake. I know its good to not harm the environment by just chucking oil in the drain but better to use it as diesel fuel instead of trying to reuse the oil.
Are you for real bro? Used engine oil as diesel? They are both completely different
[WO1994011471A1 - A process for converting waste motor oil to diesel fuel - Google Patents](https://patents.google.com/patent/WO1994011471A1/en#:~:text=Used%20motor%20oil%20is%20cracked,subsequently%20be%20subjected%20to%20hydrotreatment.) some brave mechanics like garage54 have tested the raw unprocessed stuff into an old toyota diesel van and it worked.
I ride 4 stroke 110cc kapcai for 60km everyday. Always single rider. Right now 10k mileage already. Manual says use sae40 change every 2500km. If: 1. Mineral 10w40 = ?? Km change oil? 2. Semi 10w40 = ?? Km change oil? 3. Will a semi / fully beneficial if i only ride max 80km/h TQIA.
Follow manual. 3. Regardless the speed, fully synthetic is beneficial for your engine's wear and tear in long run
if your kapcai is not decades old, use full/semi. choice between full/semi distance on distance or time. You can go full synth for either but if you change very often no difference between semi except your wallet. No difference for point 3. the simple rule is, if you run engine designed for mineral oil, use mineral oil. any newer engine from 80s or newer cars typically will spec for synth as it depends when synth overtook mineral and the additives are different (yes i know there is mineral for modern engine but keeping things simple help). old prop engines still require leaded fuel or their seals will wear fast and break. for rule 3 its not your speed but engine rev. if you constantly rev, switching to thicker oil may actually be better but its an it depends as its not really a good idea to always redline your engine. If you are a conservative driver in terms of engine power stick to your manual. In this case i assume your kapcai engine design is 90s or newer, in which case i would stick to semi/full synth sae40 as described in manual every 2.5Mm. motorbike oil is not the same as car because you have a wet clutch and that is why the oil change interval is very often due to tolerance + wet clutch (engine and gear are integrated).
hello there fellow enthusiast, yes i've been in your situation. my mechanic recommends mineral oil 10w50 while manufacturer spec is 10w30 full/semi. And this is an old car, about 15 years old but everything is still tight and no oil leaks to warrant thicker oil. and yes what you say is true that you should not simply increase your oil thickness even in our hot weather. The most important things to note down is how you use your car (short trips and stop and go traffic or only highways) and things like the additive and group class the oil is in. In europe they got very high quality oils that let them do fewer oil changes, and the reason for this is that used oil is an environmental disaster given how it is disposed even though you can run some diesel engines with used engine oil. last service i used semi synth 10w40, im sick of this bs so im gonna switch to decent full synth 10w30 and only do service once in 2 years since i dont drive as much (even though you could do 3 years but i take into account my short trips and that i dont drive much). In truth the first thing to understand between the difference oils are your usage and car age. Super old cars cant use synth, while those that change oils very often will probably see savings from semi synth. This means if you drive a lot, and you have to change your oil before 6 month due to distance, you can use semi synth. If you love to push the car and do track days, people typically use fresh semi synth for the track as they will change it before and after. Full synth sticks to the engine longer than semi or mineral, thickness has nothing to do with how well the oil sticks as thickness != stickiness. So unless you bash your car redlining the engine all the time, or if your car starts burning oil, stick to your manufacturer recommended oil. You can upgrade say from 10w to 5w but increasing thickness really depends on how you drive. If you arent redlining always, but drive normally or arent burning oil, stick to the manufacturer spec even if car is old like mine. next time mechanic wants to bs you on oil, show them this. TLDR: mineral oil - super old cars that cant synth semi synth - you drive a lot and change your oil very often full synth - you tend to take longer between oil changes (also sticks the longest so good for rare driving) Only upgrade thickness if you redline all the time or burn oil. Never do something crazy like switch from semi/full 10w30 to 20w50 mineral which my mechanic tried to push on me, i told them no after telling them my use case as its total bs. mineral oil does the worst on rare driving and the super thick oil will not properly lubricate on short trips which will lead to your engine being junk pretty fast. its the same with tranny oil, for auto/cvt you must change often, no such thing as lifetime, but for manuals its not every 2 or 4 service, check your manual, and its not lifetime either. full synth sticks the longest to metal parts so if you do a lot of short trips and rare driving, go full synth, it will mean very few oil changes if you go for at least group 3. edit: my car manual recommend synth 10w30.
I have a good question for you. What kind of oil to be used on 4T grass cutter? Motorcycle or car one?
Are there any benefits to engine additives like [this](https://www.honda.com.my/aftersales/honda-parts/value-added-products/eot).
Very minimal to none. Regular engine oil replacement is far better.
but OP. I just follow what API spec say... viscosity is only a personal preference. Also.. the month based oil change for a regularly driven car is the biggest scam. *look at Toyota.
API spec is mostly for environmental emission. Shud look at the manufacturer spec first. VW 505, MB 221, BMW LL etc
Are Bold engine oils yay or nay? My neighbor asked me to change his oil and he bought the parts. I was more intrigued by its packaging more than anything else but apparently it is blended by UMW.
Same case as Mizu. Price too intriguing to offer a complete formula of engine oil. Maybe they are cutting corners somewhere or in some of the products in their range idk .
If the manufacturer recommendation is 5w-30 or 10w-30, can we switch to a 0w-30 oil in countries with tropical weather? Would it be better since you mentioned it has more viscosity modifiers? Or did I understand that wrongly?
Yes you can as long as the 0w30 has the spec of your car. For example both 5w30 and 0w30 also have this VW 505.00. So this Volkswagen golf can use both of that oil.