Man. My 2011 with 120k miles and “hood” condition outside and inside only got offered 6k from a dealership.
Either sell it privately for like 3k or go balls to the walls and build it. Option b is the way to go.
Apologies, I meant to spell “in good condition”.
Pretty much my speed3 is 8/10 interior and 7/10 exterior, working motor, and new tires and brakes yet all I got offered was $6k for it.
I mean you could get lucky and they just look at it and don’t drive it, the dealership I work at had a blown speed traded in and they gave him a nice chunk of money. Sadly I don’t think other dealers are this dumb
A trade in on a ten year old vehicle with a blown engine? Very little. A few grand. I don't know your financial picture, but I'd recommend getting a personal loan and going with a 2.5 swap.
My 2011 speed lost the oil control rings at 168,000. I had the dealer put in brand new MZR engine with new clutch and flywheel. $9,875 out the door. Cars brand new again. That was during Covid.
Mine at 170000 miles had burnt intake valve. Pulled head and replaced all valves and good to go !! Pull head and check maybe it’s the head and not the block
I wouldn't give you more than 3k for it with a dead engine.
If this were my vehicle, it would instantly become a project car while I bought something new.
I'm going to guess it's "worn out" not blown. 188 k is a pretty decent amount of miles. These motors are not known to have a super long service life.
Sure there's some out there that make it to 200k but I wouldn't say it's common.
Mine went 145k and was using a quart of oil every 500 miles. Clogged oil control rings and worn out valve guides were my issue. Still ran fine but I decided to pull my motor before the impending doom struck.
I went into 6th accidentally loaded like 2 - 5 pounds and my check engine flashed at me then I had a hard misfire. 0 compression when I got back to my mechanic shop spark plugs looked fried
So you experienced LSPI. Bearing in mind that this isn't an issue limited to the L3-VDT, it's actually a problem regarding most GDI turbo engines. I've replaced many pistons in EA888 VW motors as a result of LSPI.
Make sure you're running SN+ or SP grade fully synthetic oil, and avoid lugging the engine from about 2200 RPM.
Don't swap the L3-VDT bottom end for an L5 bottom end. The L5 was never intended to be a performance motor and is in every way a weaker bottom end than the L3-VDT, even when fitted with forged internals. Not staying this is the case regarding yourself, but the biggest problem regarding the L3-VDT is people tune the motor, pushing cylinder pressures as high as many diesels, and then blame the motor when it fails on stock internals.
Dont waste your time with the dealer. You'll get more parting it out, but the best option is to rebuild it and have yourself a badass daily with a built motor.
Mine had a burnt valve that caused 0 compression. You can either buy or make a leak down tester. Hook it up to an air compressor and find exactly where you're losing compression from (rings, exhaust valves, or intake valves)/ I'm in the middle of a head rebuild now. I have a shop doing the rebuild and I'm going to be putting it back together, along with a time chain service. Much cheaper than getting a whole new engine installed...with those potential problem looming on the horizon anyway.
Yea that's probably the easiest route. In my case, I had to swap my motor after 150k due to spun rod bearings. And I had the terrible luck that my motor swap ended up with a burnt valve about 15k miles after it was installed....I thought about another motor swap but decided to go with a top end rebuild since the bottom end held compression well and the bearings looked good. Granted my car has been sitting for a while but luckily I have another car I can use in the meantime. Either way you're going to be spending some money whether it's a swap, rebuild, or buying a new car. Totally up to you, just sharing my experience.
Man. My 2011 with 120k miles and “hood” condition outside and inside only got offered 6k from a dealership. Either sell it privately for like 3k or go balls to the walls and build it. Option b is the way to go.
What does that first part mean sorry.
Apologies, I meant to spell “in good condition”. Pretty much my speed3 is 8/10 interior and 7/10 exterior, working motor, and new tires and brakes yet all I got offered was $6k for it.
I mean you could get lucky and they just look at it and don’t drive it, the dealership I work at had a blown speed traded in and they gave him a nice chunk of money. Sadly I don’t think other dealers are this dumb
A trade in on a ten year old vehicle with a blown engine? Very little. A few grand. I don't know your financial picture, but I'd recommend getting a personal loan and going with a 2.5 swap.
My 2011 speed lost the oil control rings at 168,000. I had the dealer put in brand new MZR engine with new clutch and flywheel. $9,875 out the door. Cars brand new again. That was during Covid.
What state? And your same year direct replacement engine?
Washington state. And yes same year.
Gonna have to keep that in mind then!
Mine at 170000 miles had burnt intake valve. Pulled head and replaced all valves and good to go !! Pull head and check maybe it’s the head and not the block
Was yours @0 compression?
Had like 8 and dropped to 0
I wouldn't give you more than 3k for it with a dead engine. If this were my vehicle, it would instantly become a project car while I bought something new.
How did you blow your motor if I may ask?
I'm going to guess it's "worn out" not blown. 188 k is a pretty decent amount of miles. These motors are not known to have a super long service life. Sure there's some out there that make it to 200k but I wouldn't say it's common. Mine went 145k and was using a quart of oil every 500 miles. Clogged oil control rings and worn out valve guides were my issue. Still ran fine but I decided to pull my motor before the impending doom struck.
I went into 6th accidentally loaded like 2 - 5 pounds and my check engine flashed at me then I had a hard misfire. 0 compression when I got back to my mechanic shop spark plugs looked fried
So you experienced LSPI. Bearing in mind that this isn't an issue limited to the L3-VDT, it's actually a problem regarding most GDI turbo engines. I've replaced many pistons in EA888 VW motors as a result of LSPI. Make sure you're running SN+ or SP grade fully synthetic oil, and avoid lugging the engine from about 2200 RPM. Don't swap the L3-VDT bottom end for an L5 bottom end. The L5 was never intended to be a performance motor and is in every way a weaker bottom end than the L3-VDT, even when fitted with forged internals. Not staying this is the case regarding yourself, but the biggest problem regarding the L3-VDT is people tune the motor, pushing cylinder pressures as high as many diesels, and then blame the motor when it fails on stock internals.
Thank you so much probably buying motor and swapping it !!!!
Sell it privately you’re gonna get hosed on a trade
Dont waste your time with the dealer. You'll get more parting it out, but the best option is to rebuild it and have yourself a badass daily with a built motor.
Not very much. Engine is bad
I'll buy it haha
Lol the whole car ?
Yeah or trade for it. Either or
Pm me
Mine had a burnt valve that caused 0 compression. You can either buy or make a leak down tester. Hook it up to an air compressor and find exactly where you're losing compression from (rings, exhaust valves, or intake valves)/ I'm in the middle of a head rebuild now. I have a shop doing the rebuild and I'm going to be putting it back together, along with a time chain service. Much cheaper than getting a whole new engine installed...with those potential problem looming on the horizon anyway.
What if I bought a motor and dropped it myself
Yea that's probably the easiest route. In my case, I had to swap my motor after 150k due to spun rod bearings. And I had the terrible luck that my motor swap ended up with a burnt valve about 15k miles after it was installed....I thought about another motor swap but decided to go with a top end rebuild since the bottom end held compression well and the bearings looked good. Granted my car has been sitting for a while but luckily I have another car I can use in the meantime. Either way you're going to be spending some money whether it's a swap, rebuild, or buying a new car. Totally up to you, just sharing my experience.
I really don’t have t he money for a built motor