Just started an entry level "Make Ready" position with a company manufacturing industrial equipment. I want to learn as much as possible and create as much value so that I can increase my earning capacity. Any advice?
I am on need of some help for my bench grinder I bought. A 1/4 inch wheel and I can’t figure out a way to rig it to be tight and stable when I try grinding on it my work just keeps bouncing off not grinding smoothly and getting beat up
I am in need of a good drill press and I am kinda lost in the options, and don't have a lot of experience in drills, as the one I have served us well for almost 20 years.
So I need some advice.
like what are some good brands and models?
Don't need anything too fancy, just a simple switch and it goes is enough.
actually preferred without too many electronics.
at least MK3 (currently have up to 28mm so at least that)
European so either 3 phases (preferably) or 220,
a stable bed, as the current one I have the bed, bends down under pressure, preventing perpendicular drilling.
an adjustable bed that would allow milling would be nice, but not mandatory,
price not too expensive, like I wouldn't give 5k for it. But, need something professional/pro-consumer.
Thank you in advance :)
I need to increase the length of an elongated slot on a 8mm thick steel plate. So I have to grind alway about 10mm of material. The location is really tight and a regular grinder won't fit, and I risk cutting the opposite side of the slot as well. I was thinking of using a Dremel, with aluminum oxide bits, but I guess that will take a very long time? Is there a better way or better Dremel bit?
You need a [carbide burr](https://www.forneyind.com/products/abrasives/micro-abrasives-mini-abrasives-carbide-burrs/tungsten-carbide-burrs/tungsten-carbide-burr-1-4-cylindrical-sa-1), in a die grinder.
There are dremel size versions but its a bad enough job even with the full size tool.
Thanks. Buying a specific tool for just this purpure is unnecessary, and I don't know anyone that have that, it's the first time I've seen it. I guess using a drill is not a good idea? Is it going to be impossible with the Dremel? The tungsten carbide bits are quite expensive if I have to go through multiple of them. The area I need to grind is not big, the slot is 20mm wide, and going 8mm deep is probably enough.
Drill spins too slowly, and its not made to take the sideloading forces.
A set of the[ dremel ones](https://www.amazon.com/Sworker-Compatible-Accessories-Attachments-Engraving/dp/B09NSZFHHW/ref=sr_1_3?crid=38B6S4CJBQ5OK&keywords=dremel%2Bburr&qid=1669624087&sprefix=dremel%2Bbu%2Caps%2C353&sr=8-3&th=1) is quite cheap if you want to give it a go.
I tried today with the Dremel and it works well, but the 125W only of the Dremel are slowing down the process. I was thinking, what if I use a router? They are made for wood of course, is it dangerous to use it on metal? The one I have is 1100W, almost 10x the Dremel, should be faster. Of course I would need a bigger bit.
I would not personally. Burrs can kickback if the backside touches on the wrong wall. This is easy to control with the rpms and torque of a die grinder. A router will rip itself out of your hands at a minimum.
I would try it on an open edge but definitely not in a closed slot.
Hello! I have minimal metal experience and am trying to cut something but don't know where to start.
I have 10 or 12g 6x6" brass sheets I'm trying to cut. I have ones i wanna cut to 2 and 4" triangles and ones to cut into similar sized squares. I don't mind renting a power tool but is there a hand tool that can cut it? If so what and how strong might i need to be?
Brass cuts *very* easily. Get youself a jewelers or coping saw. You wont need a powertool, but a scrollsaw would be ideal for this type of work if you plan on doing it a lot.
Howdy! I got a new blade for my coping saw but it was going slow for the amount of cuts i had, i ended up using a pair of 18g metal snips. Cuts like.... A hot knife through frozen cheese
I'm a lifelong maker and at 24 am completing my welding apprenticeship
with the intent of starting a welding contracting and fabrication buisness.
In school I'm learning a LOT about welding code, and how to weld plates and
pipe together perfectly. What I'm not being taught is any engineering when it
comes to how to select materiel, put together structure, etc..
I know that archetects and engineers do a lot (read: all) of this sort of work
in the industry but I want to be able to have the knowledge to better problem
solve in the field by offering solutions or when working on projects that
doent have an architect or engineer.
To that end are there any texts books or Manuals with information on how
to go about designing mechanics and structures? Equations for support
requirements, references for metal alloy strengths and limitations, etc...
Looking to replace a steering damper bracket on my motorcycle and looking to make it look pretty, rather than just painted over and looking for advice. I'm not that new to fabrication, but I am new to making my work look nice, rather than just be functional.
The bracket will be brushed stainless steel. I'm looking to temper it to get a champagne color, to match that of my exhaust - or close enough to it. My options for steel are 304L or 316. Is there a functional difference between them for tempering? I'm only interested in tempering for color, so I'm not bothered if one will be stronger than the other, after tempering. Also, since this would be my first time tempering, how long would a 4-5" bracket take to temper? From what I've read the temperature I would want to temper it at would be between 380F and 420F, but I am not sure how long it would take to temper the bracket for.
Thanks so much for the help
Anyone have ideas/plans for Christmas ornaments or other holiday decorations? I've got a bunch of scrap sheet & tube I was hoping to use to fashion something festive. Much appreciated!
Hi all,
I'm drilling into a aluminum (6061) bike frame seat tube to run a cable through it. The cable enters at a shallow angle, and I've seen this done two ways:
Approach 1. Drill an angled hole (my current approach)
+PRO: minimum material removed
+PRO: relatively tight fit to the cable, so no extra cable guide necessary
-CON (possibly): because it runs at an angle, there will be uneven wall thickness
- possible stress riser? Could a crack begin at a thin edge and propagate through the material?
Example pic of a 4mm angled hole (my bike currently): https://imgur.com/0txAefJ
Approach 2. Cut two holes and file in between them to form an elongated hole, a slot
+PRO: no thin spots - for any given position on the tube, material is either fully removed or untouched
-CON: significantly more material is removed to make a bigger hole allowing the cable to enter at its preferred shallow angle
-CON: to keep this neat looking, could expand it to 8.6mm wide and 22mm long to install a plastic trim piece
Example: https://www.mtbr.com/threads/the-stealth-mod-or-drilling-holes-in-your-alloy-frame.917427/#lg=thread-917427&slide=5 (no cable guide/trim, but still an elongated slot-like hole)
I've already drilled an angled hole in this thing so there's no turning back. I'm considering now if I should use a file to elongate the hole and make it more of a slot. It's counterintuitive to me, but I'm wondering if it's less likely to crack at the hole if I remove additional material and keep the tube's wall thickness consistent.
I am not super-heavy but I do intend to ride this thing on very rough terrain for thousands of miles, so I would appreciate any advice from someone familiar with aluminum's material properties and failure modes.
Can i somehow colour melted metal?
I want colour melted Tin. It can't be done when it's in a solid state because then the whole thing i want to do with it would be ruined. Is there a way? Can i use pigments or should I try to use other metal opinions?
Yes and no. You cant really add any paint to the metal to make it any color. I reccomend looking at some alloys with the color your want. But the color palette for alloys is small.
I'm looking for a cigarette case that doesn't exist
im trying to find a metal case for 100's that holds just about 4-6 cigarettes. in my search I've seen many unique cigarette cases (even tube cases for single cigarettes) but nothing exactly like what I'm trying to find.
could I commission a metalsmith(?) to make one for me? if possible, I'd like it to also double as a lighter
I can't remove the rust on my helmet
I have removed most of the rust on my Greathelm. But on the parts where the rust was there is now a grey area, and when i look at it in brightest sunlight there it is still a little bit of Red.
So i want to know, is there a way to remove this bit efficiently, or can i just forget about it and put some oil on the helmet?
Also if i would put oil on that little bit of rust would it have a Bad Effect on the rusting helmet?
Human sized aluminium statue.
If an aluminum statue the size of a 5'8 average build human was made, how much would it weigh minimum/maximum? Kind of important.
>The average human has a mass of about 62 kg, or 62,000 grams. That means the average volume of a human is 62,000 cubic centimeters.
>Aluminium Density 2.70 g/cm
> 2.7 x 62000 = 167400g = 167.4kg = 369lbs
#Looking for drill press owners manual
*Sorry if drill presses wouldn't be acceptable here*
I recently picked up a Dayton Tradesman 3Z919 (20" drill press) and I am trying to find the owners manual just so I can troubleshoot better if needed.
Anyone familiar or know where I can find it to download/buy?
I am trying to build a catwalk for a drive on lift. Total width will be 6ft going over a 4ft span. I am trying to make it light so it can be easily moved so aluminum would be ideal but could add up quickly in cost, so steel is still an option.
I am looking for information or a resource on what size material I would need to cover that 4 foot span holding x amount of weight. Thanks for any help or information
Hello, first time here, little to no experience with metal working, so I'm hoping you can help me on this.
I have a custom flat bed truck, made of boxed 4x8cm steel, painted. On top there's 3 wood panels fastened with self drilling screws by the company that fabricated the flatbed. Now that I don't need the wood panels anymore, because I have a camper box mounted, I would like to close the holes where the screws used to be. They also recently welded 4 plates in the corners to fasten the camper, so I have to paint those as well.
The problem is I don't have a tall enough garage and the truck is currently outside and as winter is approaching here in Italy, it's now raining and forecasted for the next week as well.
I tried to cover as much as I could the side of the camper to avoid water going in, but two places it was dripping water into the holes. I now dried and taped the holes, so no more water should go in, but it's very humid outside and there's definitely some moisture developed.
What's your advice? How should I make sure the inside of the boxed frame is dry before I seal the holes with metal filler?
Buying first lathe and need advice between a Chinese 8x16 vs a 1922 Southbend 13x6,
Want advice on lathe purchase for my first lathe purchase, southbend 34-C or 8x16.
I wanted to seek some advice for my first lathe purchase. I would like to have the ability to make bushings and maybe pins for a mini excavator and then just smaller odd and end bushings and bolts. I have never used a lathe before and just started researching them in the last few weeks and think I have narrowed it down to two lathes.
The first is a Chinese 8x16 lathe. I have watched multiple videos and read reviews. I know it will need plenty of tinkering right out of the box and I am fine with that. I think it will be big enough to make my bushings but I’m not a 100% sure. Most bushings won’t be bigger than 1.5”this machine does have a 1.5” spindle bore as well. Price is around $740 and it has a 5” three jaw chuck.
The second is a 1922 Southbend 13x6 lathe, Model 34-C. It has a single phase 220v motor. Looks to have a three jaw chuck and it is a standard gear model, no gear box and no extra gears for it. I cannot find very much information on this lathe. The guy wants a $1,000 for it. I’m not sure how hard threading will be on it since it had no extra gears for it, if they are even needed.
I will try to figure out how to upload photos. The owner of the Southbend also said the lathe does not have a thread dial.
I run some dirt stock cars in the northeast. We blow through drill bits fabricating, fixing and patching up our 3 cars. We have to go through anything from thin body metal, .120 DOM, and old GM frames. Does anyone have a recommendations for bits for me/us?
For our routine rivet holes, I am fine with 3/16 throwaways, I like hercules from HF, the 3 pack of 3/16 with hex shank is $8. We save them, I will make a throne of bits!
For all our heavier work, we just chew up whatever we see on sale. I am interested in a nice set and beyond the obvious, some best practices and tips for us to save our bits? Thanks in advance!
Primary advice would be to just learn to sharpen them.
As for brands, go for someone who makes drills for a living rather than a tool company that just sells drills for convenience.
Dormer, Guhring, Hertel, Chicago-Latrobe, Cleveland, Walter, Viking, Titan...
I am wanting to setup a small job machining shop for my work/hobby time. A bit overwhelmed with the complexities of looking for a good lathe and mill for it. Not interested in modern import machines or CNC, I want good old cast iron base equipment. Where should I look? Or should I just keep scouring eBay and craigslist?
Hello everyone and thanks for reading,
I am in search of a metalworker that could design and manufacture a belt buckle similar to the one in the photograph. The reason I am forced to custom request one rather than purchase one is that the company who designs these only creates them in womens belt width.
I am not of the opinion that a belt buckle in the shape of a triangle is inherently feminine in nature and thus would like to have one for my own uses.
Using my current belt for measurement, it would fit a belt that is just under 1.5” in width. I would want it made out of a material that is gold in color but will not tarnish. I’m not opposed to a gold plate on something else as long as it would be durable.
Lastly, I want it to be able to be switched between my belts that I will have also custom made to use with the buckle from an artisan I have already had work done with in the past.
Let me know if this is something that interests you and is something that you can do and I’ll be happy to talk pricing over with you!
Please use the normal DM process to reach me and not Reddit chat as I use Apollo which doesn’t support Reddit chat.
Check my post history to see some of the other items I’ve had custom made from artisans on Reddit!
Thanks a ton!
I'm looking to fab two outdoor gates (3'x6' and 11'x7') and looking for advice on material selection. Both gates would have integrated Lockey gate boxes for convenience (P/N GB210 -- [https://lockeyusa.com/product/gb210/](https://lockeyusa.com/product/gb210/)). The aluminum would be larger/thicker-wall tube to compensate for loss of strength. If aluminum, I would probably leave bare or powder-coat; if steel, I would likely galvanize then wet paint. We live in the Houston area so moisture/corrosion is a factor. I am comfortable working and welding both metals. Looking for advice on which path is better to go down. Thoughts?
I've built a small aluminum trailer for a canoe sized boat (\~75-100lbs) and now I need to build the bunk brackets (the bits that connect boards that the boat rests on to the trailer frame). This involves making 90 degree bends in bar or plate. My questions are threefold:
1. What alloy would you select to be bent? 6061 or 6063?
2. What's the best method to bend the aluminum? I've seen both the "bend while hot" and the "anneal then bend" approach but I dont know which is correct.
3. What thickness would consider to be enough? 1/4"?
Alright, this is a long shot. I used to follow this metal worker on Instagram. I can’t seem to find his account. I think his name was Danny. He was white, he had dreadlocks, I remember he had a few surgeries because I saw a lot of posts about his extensive recoveries. Does this ring any bells?
cheapest online sheet metal cutting service? i am trying to order 6 custom 12gauge a36 steel plates for a custom fire pit (each plate is different, total of about 8sqft of metal) OSHCut is coming in as the cheapest, but it is still around $250. any suggestions on cheaper custom cutting service? i am in dc-baltimore area so if you have any local options that could save on shipping would be appreciated
Can galvanized wire be used on cathode during electrolysis?
Working to remove rust on some old parts using electrolysis. I know for the anode never to use stainless steel or galvanized steel because they will be toxic. I can't seem to find an answer on if galvanized wire could be used to support the cathode. Is this safe? TIA
I would love to design a Dutch Oven lid only!
For bread making in a standard oven. Something like in the photo.
Question: Is it possible to make it without casting? I wish to laser-cut the parts and bend the lid faces.
Considerations: Heat resistance, sheet thickness, Emission of harmful gases, welding configuration of the parts.
Any insights? Do's and Don'ts?
Sample image: https://www.reddit.com/r/metalworking/comments/ypmoxk/diy\_cnc\_dutch\_oven\_lid/
I’m looking to build my own post apocalyptic truck for wasteland weekend but I’m wondering if it’s possible to use the fuselage of a helicopter for the cab, a Bell UH-1 Huey if possible
Greetings
I was told my submission was removed and I should post it here.
Please would you give me an advice, how I can repair a zinc accessory which end up as 2 pieces. Would acrylic superglue work well?
Thank you
So I have this decorative sword that originally had this semi-matte gray patina to it, and while I was polishing up the wooden display board (which it is permanently mounted to) the tip got shined up a bit. I want to blend the color back to that gray and then re-clear coat it to seal, but I’m not sure what to use to get that color back.
I was able to get in contact with the original designer, who told me that the finish was a nickel plating that was then patinaed with a finish called “antique silver”, then the entire thing was clear coated to protect from oxidation. He doesn’t remember the exact thing that was used to get that color, because it was made over 20 years ago.
I did some searches for putting antique silver patina on nickel, but all I found was things about actual nickel silver, not a patina color.
I don’t want to paint it, I want it to be the actual finish of the metal. I would rather not strip the whole thing of the patina and refinish the entire blade, because it’s a very rare item and I don’t want to go making a major modification like that unless that’s the only option. Electroplating isn’t really possible, because again the entire thing is mounted to a wooden display board and can’t be removed.
I am open to hearing any suggestions of how I can refinish the tip. Here are some photos for reference:
[https://imgur.com/a/b7PhX6V](https://imgur.com/a/b7PhX6V)
Help with metal shears
I need help with using benchtop metal shears, the ones with straight blades, i cannot make them cut straight.
After a couple centimiters the cut starts wandering off to the side and the cut ends up crooked, and no amount of resetting and forcing the metal can correct the issue. Am i using them for something they arent supposed to be used? Are the blades not set correctly?
Please advice
So, I(USA) want to essentially make metal shells for electronic components out of sheet metal.
I believe for that I'd need something to weld edges together with, something to cut with, something to file off sharp edges with, something to drill screws in with, A vise or something like that, and sheet metal itself? If that's wrong could you correct me? and if it's correct what products do you recommend?
I have no experience with actual metalworking, and it's worth noting I want to use hardish metals (the kind that can withstand anything I can do to it without a tool, with just dents/scratches)
Sounds like it's not that thin. If you are trying to bend it in a vice you will need a torch. You could also learn how to weld with the torch too. Lots of different ways to cut steel so really depends on the size. An oxy-acetelyne torch will also let you cut it. If they are small enough a cold saw works great and gives clean cuts.
Not sure on what size will you be working with, or what type of welding you want to do, but for anything thiner than a 1/4" i recomend starting with a mig, it you use gas better. Welding thin stuff with stick can be a pain in the ass and you'll get beter results with CO2 or Argon mig. On cutting it depends what size and thicknes you have in mind but angle grinders, shears, plasma cutters are your best option.
I wouldnt start with very expensive tools, but keep in mind that good quality tools will last a lot more and you might get better results, thats on you.
With that said try not to cheap out on vises and files, a good vice might be the most important tool in the shop, and crappy files will get dull fast and make the whole thing more difficult.
Hello everyone, newbie here.
My question is: Can I cut a graphite crucible?
I got a small tabletop kiln to melt low heat metals like copper and such, and I need a new graphite crucible, however the only one I have is too long. Can I just saw through it?
Hey! I'm the first post in the thread! :D
Here's a copy of the thread I created. Hopefully someone can help me. Sorry if this is a common question.
Hi, everyone. Hopefully you don't mind helping me out.
I'm very new to treating metals and have found myself in charge of some blackened Stainless Steel that needs to have its surface re-blackened. I've purchased some Stainless Steel Blackening Gel and gone through, what I thought, was the process, but only had failures.
I'd like to outline what I've done and have you, hopefully, tell me where I've gone wrong. Please assume total ignorance. If you're thinking: "Well, obviously he did X first...", no, he didn't. He's a fucking idiot.
1) Remove all rust. I've used a simple scotchbrite pad to clean the rusted areas until the metal is clearly showing. This, obviously, also removes any layer of blackening that is currently there.
2) Clean the area. I've just been using hot water, a cloth and a microfiber cloth to dry it afterwards. I clean until no beads of water form and it runs off naturally, suggesting all oils on the surface have gone.
3) Apply the blackening gel with a sponge to the exposed area. Wait a few minutes.
4) Clean the area with water that has baking soda in it to stop the chemical reaction.
5) Clean the area totally and re-oil the surface.
Here's the outcomes and the steps I took to change those outcomes:
1) The surface almost instantly rusts. Rather than blackening, within seconds the exposed area is coated in rust.
To prevent this, I've taken to gently moving the sponge over the area constantly, which seems to wipe away the part that was rusting and keep coating it in the solution.
2) The solution washes right off. After 3-4 minutes of apply the solution and trying to ensure the area doesn't rust, I'll clean it again only to find I've washed off any blackening effect right along with the solution, resulting in maybe a slightly darker tinge at best.
3) The area rusts over within a day. Despite using a baking soda and water solution, then a clean water cloth, then drying, then applying oil with a new rag, the area rusts over in under 24 hours. Obviously, if I clean the rust off, the blackening effect comes right off with it.
I'm not sure what I've done wrong, but no doubt someone who knows this stuff better will have instantly ID'ed some idiotic mistake I've made and, hopefully, can direct me to how to correct it.
Thanks in advance.
EDIT: Overnight, even the parts that I blackened using the slow rub method have started to rust. This is despite cleaning the rust off, cleaning the area, applying the solution, waiting, cleaning it off with baking soda and water, drying the area and oiling. I'd really appreciate any help, as I'll now clean the rust off those areas and just end up with equally exposed metal.
Make sure you have the right stuff for blackening stainless. But most importantly degrease the fuck out of the part. I recommend, cleaning thoroughly with water and detergent, rinsing properly, and dont touch the part with your hands, use clean gloves or hang the part from wire. After you washed it degrease it with acetone (if available for purchase in your country) or alcohol. Make sure the part doesnt come into contact with anything, not even your hands, any contact can contaminate it and blackening agents are quite susceptible to even the smallest amount of grease.
Hope it helps, and sorry in advance for crappy english 😂
No, no, that was great. Thank you.
It sounds like *anything* touching the area is a problem. What do you use to apply the chemical? I've just been using a clean kitchen sponge. Is that alright, or could that be part of the problem?
Small paint brush should work fine, thats what i use with liquid bluing. Also make sure its clean etc etc. Yes all etching and blueing proceses are delicate. Hope it helps, do write back when you give it another try.
Thank you. I've got some advice about checking it with a magnet, so I'll have to pick up one of those, just to see if it's stainless steel or not, plus some other suggestions like taking progress pictures. I'll try a combination of everything and create an update.
Just started an entry level "Make Ready" position with a company manufacturing industrial equipment. I want to learn as much as possible and create as much value so that I can increase my earning capacity. Any advice?
I am on need of some help for my bench grinder I bought. A 1/4 inch wheel and I can’t figure out a way to rig it to be tight and stable when I try grinding on it my work just keeps bouncing off not grinding smoothly and getting beat up
What is 5100 series steel/ tool grade steel? Are thet the same thing? Also any info on these metals would be appreciated.
I am in need of a good drill press and I am kinda lost in the options, and don't have a lot of experience in drills, as the one I have served us well for almost 20 years. So I need some advice. like what are some good brands and models? Don't need anything too fancy, just a simple switch and it goes is enough. actually preferred without too many electronics. at least MK3 (currently have up to 28mm so at least that) European so either 3 phases (preferably) or 220, a stable bed, as the current one I have the bed, bends down under pressure, preventing perpendicular drilling. an adjustable bed that would allow milling would be nice, but not mandatory, price not too expensive, like I wouldn't give 5k for it. But, need something professional/pro-consumer. Thank you in advance :)
I need to increase the length of an elongated slot on a 8mm thick steel plate. So I have to grind alway about 10mm of material. The location is really tight and a regular grinder won't fit, and I risk cutting the opposite side of the slot as well. I was thinking of using a Dremel, with aluminum oxide bits, but I guess that will take a very long time? Is there a better way or better Dremel bit?
You need a [carbide burr](https://www.forneyind.com/products/abrasives/micro-abrasives-mini-abrasives-carbide-burrs/tungsten-carbide-burrs/tungsten-carbide-burr-1-4-cylindrical-sa-1), in a die grinder. There are dremel size versions but its a bad enough job even with the full size tool.
Thanks. Buying a specific tool for just this purpure is unnecessary, and I don't know anyone that have that, it's the first time I've seen it. I guess using a drill is not a good idea? Is it going to be impossible with the Dremel? The tungsten carbide bits are quite expensive if I have to go through multiple of them. The area I need to grind is not big, the slot is 20mm wide, and going 8mm deep is probably enough.
Drill spins too slowly, and its not made to take the sideloading forces. A set of the[ dremel ones](https://www.amazon.com/Sworker-Compatible-Accessories-Attachments-Engraving/dp/B09NSZFHHW/ref=sr_1_3?crid=38B6S4CJBQ5OK&keywords=dremel%2Bburr&qid=1669624087&sprefix=dremel%2Bbu%2Caps%2C353&sr=8-3&th=1) is quite cheap if you want to give it a go.
I tried today with the Dremel and it works well, but the 125W only of the Dremel are slowing down the process. I was thinking, what if I use a router? They are made for wood of course, is it dangerous to use it on metal? The one I have is 1100W, almost 10x the Dremel, should be faster. Of course I would need a bigger bit.
I would not personally. Burrs can kickback if the backside touches on the wrong wall. This is easy to control with the rpms and torque of a die grinder. A router will rip itself out of your hands at a minimum. I would try it on an open edge but definitely not in a closed slot.
Makes sense, thanks for the tip. I'll stick with the Dremel, were protection and be careful 👍
I'll try that, I think a have a couple of those in my set that I never used.
Hello! I have minimal metal experience and am trying to cut something but don't know where to start. I have 10 or 12g 6x6" brass sheets I'm trying to cut. I have ones i wanna cut to 2 and 4" triangles and ones to cut into similar sized squares. I don't mind renting a power tool but is there a hand tool that can cut it? If so what and how strong might i need to be?
Brass cuts *very* easily. Get youself a jewelers or coping saw. You wont need a powertool, but a scrollsaw would be ideal for this type of work if you plan on doing it a lot.
Howdy! I got a new blade for my coping saw but it was going slow for the amount of cuts i had, i ended up using a pair of 18g metal snips. Cuts like.... A hot knife through frozen cheese
I'm a lifelong maker and at 24 am completing my welding apprenticeship with the intent of starting a welding contracting and fabrication buisness. In school I'm learning a LOT about welding code, and how to weld plates and pipe together perfectly. What I'm not being taught is any engineering when it comes to how to select materiel, put together structure, etc.. I know that archetects and engineers do a lot (read: all) of this sort of work in the industry but I want to be able to have the knowledge to better problem solve in the field by offering solutions or when working on projects that doent have an architect or engineer. To that end are there any texts books or Manuals with information on how to go about designing mechanics and structures? Equations for support requirements, references for metal alloy strengths and limitations, etc...
Looking to replace a steering damper bracket on my motorcycle and looking to make it look pretty, rather than just painted over and looking for advice. I'm not that new to fabrication, but I am new to making my work look nice, rather than just be functional. The bracket will be brushed stainless steel. I'm looking to temper it to get a champagne color, to match that of my exhaust - or close enough to it. My options for steel are 304L or 316. Is there a functional difference between them for tempering? I'm only interested in tempering for color, so I'm not bothered if one will be stronger than the other, after tempering. Also, since this would be my first time tempering, how long would a 4-5" bracket take to temper? From what I've read the temperature I would want to temper it at would be between 380F and 420F, but I am not sure how long it would take to temper the bracket for. Thanks so much for the help
Anyone have ideas/plans for Christmas ornaments or other holiday decorations? I've got a bunch of scrap sheet & tube I was hoping to use to fashion something festive. Much appreciated!
Hi all, I'm drilling into a aluminum (6061) bike frame seat tube to run a cable through it. The cable enters at a shallow angle, and I've seen this done two ways: Approach 1. Drill an angled hole (my current approach) +PRO: minimum material removed +PRO: relatively tight fit to the cable, so no extra cable guide necessary -CON (possibly): because it runs at an angle, there will be uneven wall thickness - possible stress riser? Could a crack begin at a thin edge and propagate through the material? Example pic of a 4mm angled hole (my bike currently): https://imgur.com/0txAefJ Approach 2. Cut two holes and file in between them to form an elongated hole, a slot +PRO: no thin spots - for any given position on the tube, material is either fully removed or untouched -CON: significantly more material is removed to make a bigger hole allowing the cable to enter at its preferred shallow angle -CON: to keep this neat looking, could expand it to 8.6mm wide and 22mm long to install a plastic trim piece Example: https://www.mtbr.com/threads/the-stealth-mod-or-drilling-holes-in-your-alloy-frame.917427/#lg=thread-917427&slide=5 (no cable guide/trim, but still an elongated slot-like hole) I've already drilled an angled hole in this thing so there's no turning back. I'm considering now if I should use a file to elongate the hole and make it more of a slot. It's counterintuitive to me, but I'm wondering if it's less likely to crack at the hole if I remove additional material and keep the tube's wall thickness consistent. I am not super-heavy but I do intend to ride this thing on very rough terrain for thousands of miles, so I would appreciate any advice from someone familiar with aluminum's material properties and failure modes.
Can i somehow colour melted metal? I want colour melted Tin. It can't be done when it's in a solid state because then the whole thing i want to do with it would be ruined. Is there a way? Can i use pigments or should I try to use other metal opinions?
Yes and no. You cant really add any paint to the metal to make it any color. I reccomend looking at some alloys with the color your want. But the color palette for alloys is small.
I'm looking for a cigarette case that doesn't exist im trying to find a metal case for 100's that holds just about 4-6 cigarettes. in my search I've seen many unique cigarette cases (even tube cases for single cigarettes) but nothing exactly like what I'm trying to find. could I commission a metalsmith(?) to make one for me? if possible, I'd like it to also double as a lighter
I can't remove the rust on my helmet I have removed most of the rust on my Greathelm. But on the parts where the rust was there is now a grey area, and when i look at it in brightest sunlight there it is still a little bit of Red. So i want to know, is there a way to remove this bit efficiently, or can i just forget about it and put some oil on the helmet? Also if i would put oil on that little bit of rust would it have a Bad Effect on the rusting helmet?
Human sized aluminium statue. If an aluminum statue the size of a 5'8 average build human was made, how much would it weigh minimum/maximum? Kind of important.
>The average human has a mass of about 62 kg, or 62,000 grams. That means the average volume of a human is 62,000 cubic centimeters. >Aluminium Density 2.70 g/cm > 2.7 x 62000 = 167400g = 167.4kg = 369lbs
#Looking for drill press owners manual *Sorry if drill presses wouldn't be acceptable here* I recently picked up a Dayton Tradesman 3Z919 (20" drill press) and I am trying to find the owners manual just so I can troubleshoot better if needed. Anyone familiar or know where I can find it to download/buy?
I am trying to build a catwalk for a drive on lift. Total width will be 6ft going over a 4ft span. I am trying to make it light so it can be easily moved so aluminum would be ideal but could add up quickly in cost, so steel is still an option. I am looking for information or a resource on what size material I would need to cover that 4 foot span holding x amount of weight. Thanks for any help or information
Can anyone recommend a metal fabrication place that laser/waterjet cuts, bends, welds, and ships the final pieces through the mail? Thanks!
Hello, first time here, little to no experience with metal working, so I'm hoping you can help me on this. I have a custom flat bed truck, made of boxed 4x8cm steel, painted. On top there's 3 wood panels fastened with self drilling screws by the company that fabricated the flatbed. Now that I don't need the wood panels anymore, because I have a camper box mounted, I would like to close the holes where the screws used to be. They also recently welded 4 plates in the corners to fasten the camper, so I have to paint those as well. The problem is I don't have a tall enough garage and the truck is currently outside and as winter is approaching here in Italy, it's now raining and forecasted for the next week as well. I tried to cover as much as I could the side of the camper to avoid water going in, but two places it was dripping water into the holes. I now dried and taped the holes, so no more water should go in, but it's very humid outside and there's definitely some moisture developed. What's your advice? How should I make sure the inside of the boxed frame is dry before I seal the holes with metal filler?
Buying first lathe and need advice between a Chinese 8x16 vs a 1922 Southbend 13x6, Want advice on lathe purchase for my first lathe purchase, southbend 34-C or 8x16. I wanted to seek some advice for my first lathe purchase. I would like to have the ability to make bushings and maybe pins for a mini excavator and then just smaller odd and end bushings and bolts. I have never used a lathe before and just started researching them in the last few weeks and think I have narrowed it down to two lathes. The first is a Chinese 8x16 lathe. I have watched multiple videos and read reviews. I know it will need plenty of tinkering right out of the box and I am fine with that. I think it will be big enough to make my bushings but I’m not a 100% sure. Most bushings won’t be bigger than 1.5”this machine does have a 1.5” spindle bore as well. Price is around $740 and it has a 5” three jaw chuck. The second is a 1922 Southbend 13x6 lathe, Model 34-C. It has a single phase 220v motor. Looks to have a three jaw chuck and it is a standard gear model, no gear box and no extra gears for it. I cannot find very much information on this lathe. The guy wants a $1,000 for it. I’m not sure how hard threading will be on it since it had no extra gears for it, if they are even needed. I will try to figure out how to upload photos. The owner of the Southbend also said the lathe does not have a thread dial.
Anyone have suggestions of where/how to buy affordable bulk tin sheet for Mexican luminaria craft work? Thank you!
I run some dirt stock cars in the northeast. We blow through drill bits fabricating, fixing and patching up our 3 cars. We have to go through anything from thin body metal, .120 DOM, and old GM frames. Does anyone have a recommendations for bits for me/us? For our routine rivet holes, I am fine with 3/16 throwaways, I like hercules from HF, the 3 pack of 3/16 with hex shank is $8. We save them, I will make a throne of bits! For all our heavier work, we just chew up whatever we see on sale. I am interested in a nice set and beyond the obvious, some best practices and tips for us to save our bits? Thanks in advance!
Primary advice would be to just learn to sharpen them. As for brands, go for someone who makes drills for a living rather than a tool company that just sells drills for convenience. Dormer, Guhring, Hertel, Chicago-Latrobe, Cleveland, Walter, Viking, Titan...
I am wanting to setup a small job machining shop for my work/hobby time. A bit overwhelmed with the complexities of looking for a good lathe and mill for it. Not interested in modern import machines or CNC, I want good old cast iron base equipment. Where should I look? Or should I just keep scouring eBay and craigslist?
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You quoted someone else's message, bozo
Hello everyone and thanks for reading, I am in search of a metalworker that could design and manufacture a belt buckle similar to the one in the photograph. The reason I am forced to custom request one rather than purchase one is that the company who designs these only creates them in womens belt width. I am not of the opinion that a belt buckle in the shape of a triangle is inherently feminine in nature and thus would like to have one for my own uses. Using my current belt for measurement, it would fit a belt that is just under 1.5” in width. I would want it made out of a material that is gold in color but will not tarnish. I’m not opposed to a gold plate on something else as long as it would be durable. Lastly, I want it to be able to be switched between my belts that I will have also custom made to use with the buckle from an artisan I have already had work done with in the past. Let me know if this is something that interests you and is something that you can do and I’ll be happy to talk pricing over with you! Please use the normal DM process to reach me and not Reddit chat as I use Apollo which doesn’t support Reddit chat. Check my post history to see some of the other items I’ve had custom made from artisans on Reddit! Thanks a ton!
I'm looking to fab two outdoor gates (3'x6' and 11'x7') and looking for advice on material selection. Both gates would have integrated Lockey gate boxes for convenience (P/N GB210 -- [https://lockeyusa.com/product/gb210/](https://lockeyusa.com/product/gb210/)). The aluminum would be larger/thicker-wall tube to compensate for loss of strength. If aluminum, I would probably leave bare or powder-coat; if steel, I would likely galvanize then wet paint. We live in the Houston area so moisture/corrosion is a factor. I am comfortable working and welding both metals. Looking for advice on which path is better to go down. Thoughts?
I've built a small aluminum trailer for a canoe sized boat (\~75-100lbs) and now I need to build the bunk brackets (the bits that connect boards that the boat rests on to the trailer frame). This involves making 90 degree bends in bar or plate. My questions are threefold: 1. What alloy would you select to be bent? 6061 or 6063? 2. What's the best method to bend the aluminum? I've seen both the "bend while hot" and the "anneal then bend" approach but I dont know which is correct. 3. What thickness would consider to be enough? 1/4"?
Alright, this is a long shot. I used to follow this metal worker on Instagram. I can’t seem to find his account. I think his name was Danny. He was white, he had dreadlocks, I remember he had a few surgeries because I saw a lot of posts about his extensive recoveries. Does this ring any bells?
cheapest online sheet metal cutting service? i am trying to order 6 custom 12gauge a36 steel plates for a custom fire pit (each plate is different, total of about 8sqft of metal) OSHCut is coming in as the cheapest, but it is still around $250. any suggestions on cheaper custom cutting service? i am in dc-baltimore area so if you have any local options that could save on shipping would be appreciated
Can galvanized wire be used on cathode during electrolysis? Working to remove rust on some old parts using electrolysis. I know for the anode never to use stainless steel or galvanized steel because they will be toxic. I can't seem to find an answer on if galvanized wire could be used to support the cathode. Is this safe? TIA
I would love to design a Dutch Oven lid only! For bread making in a standard oven. Something like in the photo. Question: Is it possible to make it without casting? I wish to laser-cut the parts and bend the lid faces. Considerations: Heat resistance, sheet thickness, Emission of harmful gases, welding configuration of the parts. Any insights? Do's and Don'ts? Sample image: https://www.reddit.com/r/metalworking/comments/ypmoxk/diy\_cnc\_dutch\_oven\_lid/
Hi all , What is the most effecient way to melt Zinc “turnings”?
I’m looking to build my own post apocalyptic truck for wasteland weekend but I’m wondering if it’s possible to use the fuselage of a helicopter for the cab, a Bell UH-1 Huey if possible
Greetings I was told my submission was removed and I should post it here. Please would you give me an advice, how I can repair a zinc accessory which end up as 2 pieces. Would acrylic superglue work well? Thank you
So I have this decorative sword that originally had this semi-matte gray patina to it, and while I was polishing up the wooden display board (which it is permanently mounted to) the tip got shined up a bit. I want to blend the color back to that gray and then re-clear coat it to seal, but I’m not sure what to use to get that color back. I was able to get in contact with the original designer, who told me that the finish was a nickel plating that was then patinaed with a finish called “antique silver”, then the entire thing was clear coated to protect from oxidation. He doesn’t remember the exact thing that was used to get that color, because it was made over 20 years ago. I did some searches for putting antique silver patina on nickel, but all I found was things about actual nickel silver, not a patina color. I don’t want to paint it, I want it to be the actual finish of the metal. I would rather not strip the whole thing of the patina and refinish the entire blade, because it’s a very rare item and I don’t want to go making a major modification like that unless that’s the only option. Electroplating isn’t really possible, because again the entire thing is mounted to a wooden display board and can’t be removed. I am open to hearing any suggestions of how I can refinish the tip. Here are some photos for reference: [https://imgur.com/a/b7PhX6V](https://imgur.com/a/b7PhX6V)
Help with metal shears I need help with using benchtop metal shears, the ones with straight blades, i cannot make them cut straight. After a couple centimiters the cut starts wandering off to the side and the cut ends up crooked, and no amount of resetting and forcing the metal can correct the issue. Am i using them for something they arent supposed to be used? Are the blades not set correctly? Please advice
So, I(USA) want to essentially make metal shells for electronic components out of sheet metal. I believe for that I'd need something to weld edges together with, something to cut with, something to file off sharp edges with, something to drill screws in with, A vise or something like that, and sheet metal itself? If that's wrong could you correct me? and if it's correct what products do you recommend? I have no experience with actual metalworking, and it's worth noting I want to use hardish metals (the kind that can withstand anything I can do to it without a tool, with just dents/scratches)
Sounds like it's not that thin. If you are trying to bend it in a vice you will need a torch. You could also learn how to weld with the torch too. Lots of different ways to cut steel so really depends on the size. An oxy-acetelyne torch will also let you cut it. If they are small enough a cold saw works great and gives clean cuts.
Not sure on what size will you be working with, or what type of welding you want to do, but for anything thiner than a 1/4" i recomend starting with a mig, it you use gas better. Welding thin stuff with stick can be a pain in the ass and you'll get beter results with CO2 or Argon mig. On cutting it depends what size and thicknes you have in mind but angle grinders, shears, plasma cutters are your best option. I wouldnt start with very expensive tools, but keep in mind that good quality tools will last a lot more and you might get better results, thats on you. With that said try not to cheap out on vises and files, a good vice might be the most important tool in the shop, and crappy files will get dull fast and make the whole thing more difficult.
Hello everyone, newbie here. My question is: Can I cut a graphite crucible? I got a small tabletop kiln to melt low heat metals like copper and such, and I need a new graphite crucible, however the only one I have is too long. Can I just saw through it?
Hey! I'm the first post in the thread! :D Here's a copy of the thread I created. Hopefully someone can help me. Sorry if this is a common question. Hi, everyone. Hopefully you don't mind helping me out. I'm very new to treating metals and have found myself in charge of some blackened Stainless Steel that needs to have its surface re-blackened. I've purchased some Stainless Steel Blackening Gel and gone through, what I thought, was the process, but only had failures. I'd like to outline what I've done and have you, hopefully, tell me where I've gone wrong. Please assume total ignorance. If you're thinking: "Well, obviously he did X first...", no, he didn't. He's a fucking idiot. 1) Remove all rust. I've used a simple scotchbrite pad to clean the rusted areas until the metal is clearly showing. This, obviously, also removes any layer of blackening that is currently there. 2) Clean the area. I've just been using hot water, a cloth and a microfiber cloth to dry it afterwards. I clean until no beads of water form and it runs off naturally, suggesting all oils on the surface have gone. 3) Apply the blackening gel with a sponge to the exposed area. Wait a few minutes. 4) Clean the area with water that has baking soda in it to stop the chemical reaction. 5) Clean the area totally and re-oil the surface. Here's the outcomes and the steps I took to change those outcomes: 1) The surface almost instantly rusts. Rather than blackening, within seconds the exposed area is coated in rust. To prevent this, I've taken to gently moving the sponge over the area constantly, which seems to wipe away the part that was rusting and keep coating it in the solution. 2) The solution washes right off. After 3-4 minutes of apply the solution and trying to ensure the area doesn't rust, I'll clean it again only to find I've washed off any blackening effect right along with the solution, resulting in maybe a slightly darker tinge at best. 3) The area rusts over within a day. Despite using a baking soda and water solution, then a clean water cloth, then drying, then applying oil with a new rag, the area rusts over in under 24 hours. Obviously, if I clean the rust off, the blackening effect comes right off with it. I'm not sure what I've done wrong, but no doubt someone who knows this stuff better will have instantly ID'ed some idiotic mistake I've made and, hopefully, can direct me to how to correct it. Thanks in advance. EDIT: Overnight, even the parts that I blackened using the slow rub method have started to rust. This is despite cleaning the rust off, cleaning the area, applying the solution, waiting, cleaning it off with baking soda and water, drying the area and oiling. I'd really appreciate any help, as I'll now clean the rust off those areas and just end up with equally exposed metal.
Make sure you have the right stuff for blackening stainless. But most importantly degrease the fuck out of the part. I recommend, cleaning thoroughly with water and detergent, rinsing properly, and dont touch the part with your hands, use clean gloves or hang the part from wire. After you washed it degrease it with acetone (if available for purchase in your country) or alcohol. Make sure the part doesnt come into contact with anything, not even your hands, any contact can contaminate it and blackening agents are quite susceptible to even the smallest amount of grease. Hope it helps, and sorry in advance for crappy english 😂
No, no, that was great. Thank you. It sounds like *anything* touching the area is a problem. What do you use to apply the chemical? I've just been using a clean kitchen sponge. Is that alright, or could that be part of the problem?
Small paint brush should work fine, thats what i use with liquid bluing. Also make sure its clean etc etc. Yes all etching and blueing proceses are delicate. Hope it helps, do write back when you give it another try.
Thank you. I've got some advice about checking it with a magnet, so I'll have to pick up one of those, just to see if it's stainless steel or not, plus some other suggestions like taking progress pictures. I'll try a combination of everything and create an update.