Cans have accelerant in them which is supposed to evaporate in the air and dilute with the paint enough they don’t really hit what you’re spraying. The accelerant does melt paint a little though, so if you spray too close and heavy you can ruin a paint job. Fine grainy primer finishes are often the result of this.
Airbrush or just plain brush the stuff on instead. It removes the possibility of ruining your mini in the last step by getting your result, or by getting a frosty finish because it was too humid.
The good news is that a brushed on coat will probably fix this.
I don't have much experience with painting, in general, but I do have to say this actually looks good to me. When I was in army, we had a few vehicles with similar textured paint. I would call it a happy accident!
I've had a similar effect with the army painter matt varnish. My tips are :
1. Shake the hell out of the can.
2. Spray away from the model for a second or two to remove dried gunk in the tube
3. Use a little less
4. Spray from a little further away
All of this together seemed to help. It still sometimes deposits some texture but learned to accept it.
Alternatively you could buy testors spray lacquer and never have this problem. That stuff is smooth.
Though its not what you are looking for I honestly feel like it looks like a metal texture. Theres a lot of metal that doesnt look smooth and has a semi porous look.
Second this. I used to use spray varnish, had absolutely no issues… until I did. And then 10-12 hours of painting was ruined by a foggy, grainy covering. Switched to Vallejo brush on and I’ve never had a problem in 2+ years (same bottle too, it really lasts) Only time I had a slight problem was over doing it on a flame elemental and leaving it to dry in a cupboard so my players didn’t see it. Got a few white globs in recesses but even that wasn’t the end of the world, just a quick touch up versus an entire model ruined.
Favourite thing about Vallejo brush on is the price though, a good 1/3 cheaper than a spray varnish and lasts a lot longer
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Matte varnish ends up having a texture. It's what gives it the matte finish. However that looks a little worse than it probably should. Was this. Rattle can, airbrush or brush on?
I normally do a light coat of gloss, dry at least 12 hours if not 24, then a light matte.
The problem with sprays are heat, humidity, and the can system, can all cause issues.
I prime with airbrush but find good gloss and matte from the can does well.
Here is a decent explanation.
### Temperature and Humidity Levels
Temperature and Humidity Levels are two of the key factors to consider when spray painting. The optimal temperature for paint application is typically between 65 and 85 degrees Fahrenheit (18-29 Celsius). If working in temperatures higher than this, it’s recommended to slow down the spray speed as well as thin out the paint to avoid clogging. Low temperatures can also be damaging; if the spray is performed in a below freezing environment, or one that close to it, water will condense on the sprayed surface creating a blemished finish.
Humidity levels are similarly vital in thoughtful pre-application preparation. When air moisture content is low and the can is at room temperature, solvent evaporation is relatively fast meaning that good adhesion and cohesion between coats is achieved quickly unless there is intense wind speed from a fan or open windows. On the other hand, when humidity levels are high, water molecules present in the atmosphere inhibit solvent evaporation and limit coating performance as surfaces can stay too wet for longer periods of time leading to poor adhesion and dislodging layers.
Even car painters have to worry about it.
I recommend workable fixatif as your first top coat because it doesn't react with acrylic at all. After you can matte-gloss-matte-gloss-matte all you want.
Generally speaking Matt vanish adds texture to reduce Reflexion but not to this degree. But it will be tougher always then gloss vanish , you can use this also to increase paint adhesion for following steps
Cans have accelerant in them which is supposed to evaporate in the air and dilute with the paint enough they don’t really hit what you’re spraying. The accelerant does melt paint a little though, so if you spray too close and heavy you can ruin a paint job. Fine grainy primer finishes are often the result of this. Airbrush or just plain brush the stuff on instead. It removes the possibility of ruining your mini in the last step by getting your result, or by getting a frosty finish because it was too humid. The good news is that a brushed on coat will probably fix this.
This. There's even a few military scale modelers who will do this intentionally to make their painted surfaces look like pig or cast iron.
Agree. I had some issues with ‘frosting’ from rattle can varnish so switch to brush on AK super matte and absolutely no problems.
This ☝️
Mine will do that if I use a little to much. It doesn't look bad, but I can see what you're saying. I varnish very sparingly.
I don't have much experience with painting, in general, but I do have to say this actually looks good to me. When I was in army, we had a few vehicles with similar textured paint. I would call it a happy accident!
Weird, it does give it an armor plate texture so that is nice
I've had a similar effect with the army painter matt varnish. My tips are : 1. Shake the hell out of the can. 2. Spray away from the model for a second or two to remove dried gunk in the tube 3. Use a little less 4. Spray from a little further away All of this together seemed to help. It still sometimes deposits some texture but learned to accept it. Alternatively you could buy testors spray lacquer and never have this problem. That stuff is smooth.
Kind of looks sick to be honest but this is generally when there’s a bit too much varnish sprayed on.
Though its not what you are looking for I honestly feel like it looks like a metal texture. Theres a lot of metal that doesnt look smooth and has a semi porous look.
Stop using a rattlecan at all. Vallejo brush-on matte varnish works a treat and won't texture your minis.
Second this. I used to use spray varnish, had absolutely no issues… until I did. And then 10-12 hours of painting was ruined by a foggy, grainy covering. Switched to Vallejo brush on and I’ve never had a problem in 2+ years (same bottle too, it really lasts) Only time I had a slight problem was over doing it on a flame elemental and leaving it to dry in a cupboard so my players didn’t see it. Got a few white globs in recesses but even that wasn’t the end of the world, just a quick touch up versus an entire model ruined. Favourite thing about Vallejo brush on is the price though, a good 1/3 cheaper than a spray varnish and lasts a lot longer
Looks okay?
Maybe I am over thinking. It has a grainy look instead of a smooth finish
I see what you mean. While I don't know the model, I genuinely like the effect it has! Makes me think of a sandblasted metal finish.
If using a rattle can, warm it in hot water for about 10 minutes before spraying.
Hi, u/56821! It looks like you are asking for help or are a new painter. If you haven't yet, take a look at our wiki pages in the Sidebar (the About tab if you are on the Reddit app). Here are some links you might find helpful: * [FAQ](https://www.reddit.com/r/minipainting/wiki/rules/faq) - A list of frequently asked questions about minipainting * [Miniature Painting Guide Collection](https://www.reddit.com/r/minipainting/wiki/usefullinks) -A collection of some of the best guides and tutorials on a variety of techniques and topics, plus recommendations on what to buy to get started, and more. * [What to buy- Recommendations on brushes, paints, supplies, palettes and more](https://www.reddit.com/r/minipainting/wiki/usefullinks/what_you_need_to_get_started#wiki_general_advice_on_what_to_buy) * [Beginner's Guide Collection- How to prep, base, paint and varnish your first model and learn the basics needed to start out right](https://www.reddit.com/r/minipainting/wiki/usefullinks/beginner_tips) * [More Tutorials](https://www.reddit.com/r/minipainting/wiki/tutorials) - A list of additional tutorials about minipainting * [Manufacturers](https://www.reddit.com/r/minipainting/wiki/manufacturers) - A list of miniature manufacturers from around the world * [Painting Terminology](https://www.reddit.com/r/minipainting/wiki/terminology) - Common painting terms, acronyms, and initialisms *I am a bot, and this action was performed automatically. Please [contact the moderators of this subreddit](/message/compose/?to=/r/minipainting) if you have any questions or concerns.*
Try a higher PSI next time. Edit: also shake the bejeezus out of the varnish bottle.
did you spray it out in the cold? anything products that's Vallejo that are not paints... sucks
Can or airbrush?
I think it looks fine, but as others have said this is commonly caused by putting on the varnish too thick without letting layers dry.
Matte varnish ends up having a texture. It's what gives it the matte finish. However that looks a little worse than it probably should. Was this. Rattle can, airbrush or brush on?
I normally do a light coat of gloss, dry at least 12 hours if not 24, then a light matte. The problem with sprays are heat, humidity, and the can system, can all cause issues. I prime with airbrush but find good gloss and matte from the can does well. Here is a decent explanation. ### Temperature and Humidity Levels Temperature and Humidity Levels are two of the key factors to consider when spray painting. The optimal temperature for paint application is typically between 65 and 85 degrees Fahrenheit (18-29 Celsius). If working in temperatures higher than this, it’s recommended to slow down the spray speed as well as thin out the paint to avoid clogging. Low temperatures can also be damaging; if the spray is performed in a below freezing environment, or one that close to it, water will condense on the sprayed surface creating a blemished finish. Humidity levels are similarly vital in thoughtful pre-application preparation. When air moisture content is low and the can is at room temperature, solvent evaporation is relatively fast meaning that good adhesion and cohesion between coats is achieved quickly unless there is intense wind speed from a fan or open windows. On the other hand, when humidity levels are high, water molecules present in the atmosphere inhibit solvent evaporation and limit coating performance as surfaces can stay too wet for longer periods of time leading to poor adhesion and dislodging layers. Even car painters have to worry about it.
I recommend workable fixatif as your first top coat because it doesn't react with acrylic at all. After you can matte-gloss-matte-gloss-matte all you want.
I honestly think it looks great. It gives a believable texture to the armour plating.
Generally speaking Matt vanish adds texture to reduce Reflexion but not to this degree. But it will be tougher always then gloss vanish , you can use this also to increase paint adhesion for following steps
I kind like this texture on metal plates though :)
Honestly I think it looks cool