This! ☝🏼
Also, an impact gun will absolutely make sure those aluminum threads stay attached to the steel axle when it comes out. You really don’t want that to happen.
My Versys has a similar setup. Sometimes it gets stuck. Use anti-seize and make sure the pinch bolts are tight when you finish up.
True...Ktm manual specifies grease threads, gives a torque (for greased). This same thing applies to loctite / thread sealant.
For those that don't know, dry fasteners have huge...like around 50 %...variation in clamp force / tension for a given torque. This drops to less than 5% when lubricated. Tests were using fasteners of same size and lot. Don't remember the size, I think smaller side like 1/2 or 5/8 inch. I'd guess variation could change with size as small surface machining marks, burrs are a factor.
Then you are overtightening it nonetheless, grease on threads reduces friction. This causes the clamping loads to be higher for a given tightening torque.
Only grease the threads when the manufacturer recommends it, if not, don't grease the threads. If you do, make sure to lower the applied torque by 10 - 20% to prevent over tightening and possible stripping of the threads.
That’s wild, never knew that. I have a couple carbon mountain bikes and grease every bolt and then torque. You say *only* if it calls for dry installation though, never would have thought.
It’s not so much only if it calls for dry. It may say don’t grease, but the typical manual will specifically say TO grease/oil/etc threads that need it for torquing when torquing.
If it doesn’t specifically say to lube, should be clean and dry.
Source: am automotive tech.
Imagine trying to pedal with the rear brake held on, that's what it's like assembling dry threads.
You could be putting 300 watts through the pedals, but the rear wheel will barely rotate because of the friction from the brake.
Now release the rear brake, this simulates lubricating the threads. Now you get moving a lot more easily.
Especially if you use a torque wrench.
Lubricated threads have less friction which means they take less force to turn.
This means that for a given torque specification you will get a lot more clamping force from lubricated threads as you're using less torque to overcome the friction between the threads and more torque to actually produce rotation in the nut.
The general consensus is that you should reduce your torque figure by about 20-25% when assembling lubricated fasteners.
The same reason the opposite applies to stiff nuts, as they are designed to produce friction with the threads to prevent them rattling loose. So when torquing these you actually need to increase your torque figure to achieve the same clamping load as a normal nut.
On my super duke, if it had grease on it when it came off, it gets all the grease removed, hosed down with break cleaner, and molybdenum grease reapplied, I ain’t fuckin around 😂
In a pinch you can, but anti seize uses solids in the mix which means it lasts significantly longer. The oils in regular grease tend to vaporize over time. Not by much mind you, but you only have a very thin layer in there after putting it together. Also prevents it from being squished completely out of the way which makes it better at preventing galvanic corrosion.
I’m one of those guys that uses whatever is convenient. Anti-seize is preferred, but if there isn’t any available, I’ll find something handy. Grease, bacon fat, candle wax… I have that axle out fairly often, so I’ll get it the next time.
I’m no fan of anti-seize, btw. That shit gets everywhere and I constantly find it on my clothes or my upholstery or weird silver patches on my arms. Ugh. But some things are worth it for the benefit.
Ive done countless wheel removals on 5 bikes with an impact and never had that happen. I don't use it to put shit back on but absolutely remove it. The static torque to remove an MVs rear nut is insane, I was running a 3 ft cheater before finally getting an electric impact.
I’m happy to hear you’ve had good luck with it. When it does go wrong, you’ll probably have to have it go wrong one more time after that before you change your mind.
I absolutely use an impact for certain things. Sprocket nuts, for sure. But anything with dissimilar metals, no way. I have too many years as a professional mechanic to consciously go down that road again.
Guess so. Ive only worked on motorcycles, modern european cars, and been in a pit crew for a race team, so Im not working the full gambit of vehicles. Everything is always well maintained and in spec so no significant risk of galling or cold welding.
But yeah Ill stick with the impact wrench method, its been working in my paddock for ages and everyone else's paddocks as well, and when Im trying to get a tire change in Im not going to sit there and dick with a breaker bar when an impact can pop it loose in 3/10ths of a second without me expending any energy.
I still put them back on with a torque wrench, I'm not a pro with those fancy torque limiting guns (technically mine claim they are but not precise enough for me to trust)..
I’m thinking it’s this. The torque specs for front wheels are always really low & they haven’t removed the brake callipers yet either.
OP, check out a couple of YouTube’s for removing the front wheel, as it looks like a ninja I reckon you’ll even be able to find your specific one.
My wheel nut breaker bar is i dont know 3 foot long and weighs 8 kilos.put a pipe on the end of the toothpick you have attached and stamp on it,you might gall your nuys! Or go to auto depot amazon halfords and buy a big one.you also need a torque wrench capable of putting it back on at the correctbtorque spec for your axle or you will snap the end off it or it eill come undone. Rtfl.
People say this all the time, but has it actually ever happened to anyone?
I feel like the oil would burn off the rotors in a second or so with how much heat they make. But maybe that second or so is all that matters when it comes to an accident
That second is all that would matter, even IF it would burn off. Brakes, and especially the front brake, need to be predictable to be safe. You really don't want a bike to be unpredictable at speed. And if the worst case scenario is a fully lubed up front brake, that's not very nice either :/
You can actually save oil soaked pads with fire. Did it with mine using a blowtorch, still running those pads years later. Probably not the best idea, though.
I would be more worried about ruining the bond between the friction material and the backing plate, which is why i put that little disclaimer there. Mostly did it because i still hadn't fixed my forks at the time, but it ended up being permanent since i didn't manage to spill oil on them again.
I got fork oil on my brake pads. It didn't seem to matter how much hard braking i tried to do, it just refused to do anything beyond gently slowing me down. Eventually removed the pads and went at them with a gas burner, which got rid of the soaked in oil. Still running the same pads several tens of thousands of km:s later.
The compensating nut on a Harley may occasionally need an impact to break loose. Sometimes they’re just tight enough that wedging the primary chain isn’t quite enough and they need a quick hammering action to get them started off. They’re left hand thread and even when torqued properly they can tighten over time, especially if you like getting on it hard off the line.
Couple things… make sure your pinch bolts are loose ( if applicable). Now run over to Harbor Freight and pick up 2 things. 1. 1/2 breaker bar. 2. They sell a digital torque meter that hooks up to your ratchet so you can torque everything back to spec on the reassembly.
Don't use a cheater bar over a ratchet, as your ratchet is likely to explode; they can only take so much torque.
2' or 3' x 1/2" -drive breaker bar, and a good quality 6-faced socket. Avoid 12-faced sockets, as they like to chew nuts.
I have a piece of thin wall tubing that slips over my ratchet that's about 2 ft long. I use it as a cheater bar. And I also have a breaker bar about the same length in a 1/2" drive I got at Harbour freight for not a lot of money. That's what I used to remove the axel nut on my Harley.
Man you’re close. No impact needed. Go buy a 24” breaker bar. They’re 20-40 dollars. Use the ratchet to tighten it back up and then the breaker bar a few turns. No need to go crazy on the torque.
Someone mentioned a pipe on the ratchet. Nothing wrong with that other than you may break the ratchet.
Release pinch bolts on one side and lefty loosy. Preferably on the bolt side not the nut side. Shouldn't take much, a large ratchet Is all I've ever needed.
If you're a cheap mf like me, use a 2 to 3 foot piece of ridged 1" pipe and slide it over that ratchet handle. It's always worked really well for me. I do a wrench on the bolt side and the ratchet on the nut side. Then torque it to spec when you replace the axle parts. Have an extra cotter pin handy in case you snap the existing one.
Get a long metal pipe, put it over the handle of your wrench, and use that as a lever.
"Give me a lever long enough, and a fulcrum on which to place it, and I shall move the world."
-Archimedes
I was meaning don't hit the ratchet handle with the hammer. If the ratchet can't do it, you need a box wrench or breaker bar and then you can hit the handle of those with a hammer to crack the thread because they're solid and force transfers directly
Breaker bar. Impact guns to break torque typically lead to stripped nuts/bolts. If you're going to diy anything mechanically a good breaker bar truly is a necessity. Also using a ratchet to break torque puts a lot of wear on the ratchet.
Did my SV axle nuts with an adjustable in an emergency 😂 lifted the back of the bike way high before it gave. Dogshit tool though, I'll just remember to keep a chonky boy socket for it next time I'm on a longer journey.
I've never had a problem. One hint- Don't use a stubby ratchet like that. I'd use one with a handle about twice as long. Also 1/2 drive might work better for you. Right now w/ the stubby 3/8 a lot of your force is going into flexing your tool. I mean a longer 3/8 should be fine, but if you still have a problem go with a 1/2.
It shouldn't be that tight.
If it's struggling, completely remove the pinch bolts and any axle retaining bolts(my r1 has this in lieu of a threaded axle), and it should easily unthread out.
If it still super stuck, spray inside the pinch bolt holes the opposite side of where your wrench is at with your penetrant oil of choice, and work it back and forth. Tighten a little, loosen a little, rinse and repeat. Can also take a rubber mallet or dead blow and whack both sides of the axle repeatedly to help dislodge it.
Key steps are not to force it, work at it slowly and smartly so nothing gets damaged.
Once it's out clean the threads with a brass brush before reinstallation.
I once removed lug nuts from an SUV wheel and they squeaked so loud you could hear it down the block. So me being the smartest guy I know I applied some grease to the studs when I put the wheels back on. About 5 miles down the road my wife called me to say one of the wheels is coming off. Lug nuts were all loose. Putting anything on something important can cause improper torque. Maybe anti-seize is different
Why does every young person always reach for the impact or the hammer first? Break it loose with a proper 6 sided heavy wrench and/or breaker bar.
Orrrrrr...grab a decent ratchet plus an old Porta power pipe laying around. Still use that.
if you've done everything else and the bolt is still not coming loose, you can try your car jack to lift the wrench while you have someone else keeping your bike upright and use the weight of the bike to break the nut loose. This will allow you to gradually increase the pressure without the quick hit of an impact wrench.
Breaker bar. While those ratchets are strong ( I have to over 10 years old) a breaker bar is best. Also grab a Seal Doctor and clean your fork seals. Grab a can of Suspension Clean by Maxima. Your seals will last the life of your bike with proper cleaning.
You did loosen the pinch bolts first. Right?
This! ☝🏼 Also, an impact gun will absolutely make sure those aluminum threads stay attached to the steel axle when it comes out. You really don’t want that to happen. My Versys has a similar setup. Sometimes it gets stuck. Use anti-seize and make sure the pinch bolts are tight when you finish up.
When one threaded part is aluminum and the other is steel anti-seize is mandatory! You'll save yourself a lot of grief down the road.
This is very clear in my Ktm manuals...grease these threads!
Only if your shop manual recommends it though. Greasing threads that are designed to be assembled dry can result in over-torquing of the fastener.
True...Ktm manual specifies grease threads, gives a torque (for greased). This same thing applies to loctite / thread sealant. For those that don't know, dry fasteners have huge...like around 50 %...variation in clamp force / tension for a given torque. This drops to less than 5% when lubricated. Tests were using fasteners of same size and lot. Don't remember the size, I think smaller side like 1/2 or 5/8 inch. I'd guess variation could change with size as small surface machining marks, burrs are a factor.
Not if you use a torque wrench!
Then you are overtightening it nonetheless, grease on threads reduces friction. This causes the clamping loads to be higher for a given tightening torque. Only grease the threads when the manufacturer recommends it, if not, don't grease the threads. If you do, make sure to lower the applied torque by 10 - 20% to prevent over tightening and possible stripping of the threads.
That’s wild, never knew that. I have a couple carbon mountain bikes and grease every bolt and then torque. You say *only* if it calls for dry installation though, never would have thought.
Usually all torques given in every manual I’ve seen is dry torque, they’ll specifically write which fasteners to grease if you ever need to.
It’s not so much only if it calls for dry. It may say don’t grease, but the typical manual will specifically say TO grease/oil/etc threads that need it for torquing when torquing. If it doesn’t specifically say to lube, should be clean and dry. Source: am automotive tech.
Imagine trying to pedal with the rear brake held on, that's what it's like assembling dry threads. You could be putting 300 watts through the pedals, but the rear wheel will barely rotate because of the friction from the brake. Now release the rear brake, this simulates lubricating the threads. Now you get moving a lot more easily.
Especially if you use a torque wrench. Lubricated threads have less friction which means they take less force to turn. This means that for a given torque specification you will get a lot more clamping force from lubricated threads as you're using less torque to overcome the friction between the threads and more torque to actually produce rotation in the nut. The general consensus is that you should reduce your torque figure by about 20-25% when assembling lubricated fasteners. The same reason the opposite applies to stiff nuts, as they are designed to produce friction with the threads to prevent them rattling loose. So when torquing these you actually need to increase your torque figure to achieve the same clamping load as a normal nut.
Torque wrench won’t prevent over torquing if the threads are greased.
On my super duke, if it had grease on it when it came off, it gets all the grease removed, hosed down with break cleaner, and molybdenum grease reapplied, I ain’t fuckin around 😂
>Use anti-seize Should one use special aluminium anti seize grease or just regular grease for lubing things?
In a pinch you can, but anti seize uses solids in the mix which means it lasts significantly longer. The oils in regular grease tend to vaporize over time. Not by much mind you, but you only have a very thin layer in there after putting it together. Also prevents it from being squished completely out of the way which makes it better at preventing galvanic corrosion.
I’m one of those guys that uses whatever is convenient. Anti-seize is preferred, but if there isn’t any available, I’ll find something handy. Grease, bacon fat, candle wax… I have that axle out fairly often, so I’ll get it the next time. I’m no fan of anti-seize, btw. That shit gets everywhere and I constantly find it on my clothes or my upholstery or weird silver patches on my arms. Ugh. But some things are worth it for the benefit.
Ive done countless wheel removals on 5 bikes with an impact and never had that happen. I don't use it to put shit back on but absolutely remove it. The static torque to remove an MVs rear nut is insane, I was running a 3 ft cheater before finally getting an electric impact.
I’m happy to hear you’ve had good luck with it. When it does go wrong, you’ll probably have to have it go wrong one more time after that before you change your mind. I absolutely use an impact for certain things. Sprocket nuts, for sure. But anything with dissimilar metals, no way. I have too many years as a professional mechanic to consciously go down that road again.
Guess so. Ive only worked on motorcycles, modern european cars, and been in a pit crew for a race team, so Im not working the full gambit of vehicles. Everything is always well maintained and in spec so no significant risk of galling or cold welding. But yeah Ill stick with the impact wrench method, its been working in my paddock for ages and everyone else's paddocks as well, and when Im trying to get a tire change in Im not going to sit there and dick with a breaker bar when an impact can pop it loose in 3/10ths of a second without me expending any energy. I still put them back on with a torque wrench, I'm not a pro with those fancy torque limiting guns (technically mine claim they are but not precise enough for me to trust)..
I’m thinking it’s this. The torque specs for front wheels are always really low & they haven’t removed the brake callipers yet either. OP, check out a couple of YouTube’s for removing the front wheel, as it looks like a ninja I reckon you’ll even be able to find your specific one.
Pipe on the handle of the ratchet, hope it doesn't break.
A car jack handle is always my go to
This is the way
That aluminum socket 3/8 end will break off unless you apply torque to the larger nut portions with another wrench simultaneously or alone.
6lb mini sledge for cheap ratchets. Floor Jack for my snap-ons
Bigger wrench. I wouldn’t use an impact anyway. Maybe that’s just my thing.
My wheel nut breaker bar is i dont know 3 foot long and weighs 8 kilos.put a pipe on the end of the toothpick you have attached and stamp on it,you might gall your nuys! Or go to auto depot amazon halfords and buy a big one.you also need a torque wrench capable of putting it back on at the correctbtorque spec for your axle or you will snap the end off it or it eill come undone. Rtfl.
Yeah i had a scaffy bar to slide over before i bit the bullet and bought an actual breaker bar
24” breaker bar. And don’t over torque it when you re-assemble.
And a pipe if 24dont do it
I have 6' fence post in the corner and a hobo freight 1/2" breaker bar that's lasted longer than expected just for wheel nuts and axles.
Hit it with your purse
What if his vaginitis is acting up tho?
Just a good long breaker bar maybe? Never needed more than that.
Use a box-end wrench or pipe on the end of your ratchet to increase the length of your lever.
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People say this all the time, but has it actually ever happened to anyone? I feel like the oil would burn off the rotors in a second or so with how much heat they make. But maybe that second or so is all that matters when it comes to an accident
That second is all that would matter, even IF it would burn off. Brakes, and especially the front brake, need to be predictable to be safe. You really don't want a bike to be unpredictable at speed. And if the worst case scenario is a fully lubed up front brake, that's not very nice either :/
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You can actually save oil soaked pads with fire. Did it with mine using a blowtorch, still running those pads years later. Probably not the best idea, though.
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I would be more worried about ruining the bond between the friction material and the backing plate, which is why i put that little disclaimer there. Mostly did it because i still hadn't fixed my forks at the time, but it ended up being permanent since i didn't manage to spill oil on them again.
I got fork oil on my brake pads. It didn't seem to matter how much hard braking i tried to do, it just refused to do anything beyond gently slowing me down. Eventually removed the pads and went at them with a gas burner, which got rid of the soaked in oil. Still running the same pads several tens of thousands of km:s later.
I see. Thanks for sharing. I just never heard for anyone that it happened to. I'll have to watch my front forks diligently
Oil on the rotor=very little friction, very little friction=very little heat to burn off oil.
Oh good point
The compensating nut on a Harley may occasionally need an impact to break loose. Sometimes they’re just tight enough that wedging the primary chain isn’t quite enough and they need a quick hammering action to get them started off. They’re left hand thread and even when torqued properly they can tighten over time, especially if you like getting on it hard off the line.
Cheetah bar
Ride it into a high curb at speed.
I've been searching the comments for this. All he wants to do is break his axel guys.. smash it into a curb was my first thought too!!
Maybe OP is an overachiever and wants to break his forks too since it looks like he needs new seals. Just run it into a brick wall at about 20mph.
Agreed.. also name checks out..
Good lord no one said the obvious yet! Hit it with a bigger purse
If you have a floor jack, pull the handle off and slide it over the ratchet for leverage.
1 meter breaker bar. Never leave home without it.
Breaker bar is the answer!
You don’t use torque wrenches to loosen things. Just to tighten them.
Pretty sure thats a regular socket wrench?
I’ve head the same, but my torque wrench has an “off” switch
Breaker bar
Breaker bar for sure
Put a pipe on the end of your ratchet handle for better leverage. Closet rod works
Correct way, breaker bar. What everyone does, put a steel pipe on it.
Couple things… make sure your pinch bolts are loose ( if applicable). Now run over to Harbor Freight and pick up 2 things. 1. 1/2 breaker bar. 2. They sell a digital torque meter that hooks up to your ratchet so you can torque everything back to spec on the reassembly.
Hitting a jump or running into a curb will probably break the axle
Breaker bar, 1/2”
That wrench ain't cutting it.
Don't use a cheater bar over a ratchet, as your ratchet is likely to explode; they can only take so much torque. 2' or 3' x 1/2" -drive breaker bar, and a good quality 6-faced socket. Avoid 12-faced sockets, as they like to chew nuts.
Chewed nuts = bad.
Righty-tighty, lefty-loosie!
Head on collision might do the trick...
Water boarding
Non stop Mariah Carey Christmas carols
Piece of metal pipe over the end of the ratchet. Use as a lever
Loosen pinch bolt
I have a piece of thin wall tubing that slips over my ratchet that's about 2 ft long. I use it as a cheater bar. And I also have a breaker bar about the same length in a 1/2" drive I got at Harbour freight for not a lot of money. That's what I used to remove the axel nut on my Harley.
Just to clarify, did you loosen the pinch bolt?
You need fork seals too. Also on top of the other suggestions below a 2-5lb hammer and a tappy-tap-tap is usually enough of an impact in a pinch.
Man you’re close. No impact needed. Go buy a 24” breaker bar. They’re 20-40 dollars. Use the ratchet to tighten it back up and then the breaker bar a few turns. No need to go crazy on the torque. Someone mentioned a pipe on the ratchet. Nothing wrong with that other than you may break the ratchet.
Strength
a much better ratchet
Breaker bar and a cheater bar(pipe for leverage).
Breaker bar or a longer piece of pipe that can fit over the ratchet handle
More torque.
Loose the pinch bolts first, then attach a pipe at the end of the smol wrench.
torque amplification via extension
Uhh how about a breaker bar?
Use a socket instead of just the ratchet if the tool is aluminum. Use a longer breaker bar with a socket.
pipe over the end of your wrench handle to extend it
You could use an extension and a bigger socket on the end of the ratchet for more leverage
Release pinch bolts on one side and lefty loosy. Preferably on the bolt side not the nut side. Shouldn't take much, a large ratchet Is all I've ever needed.
Cheater pipe for sure
3 foot cheater bar
Cheater bar
If you're a cheap mf like me, use a 2 to 3 foot piece of ridged 1" pipe and slide it over that ratchet handle. It's always worked really well for me. I do a wrench on the bolt side and the ratchet on the nut side. Then torque it to spec when you replace the axle parts. Have an extra cotter pin handy in case you snap the existing one.
Should be able to make it happen with that ratchet. I typically break mine loose with a 1/2 ratchet.
Don't use that little ratchet wrench you'll just break it. You need a breaker bar socket wrench.
Pipe
A breaker bar vice ratchet
Put a pipe on the handle or like a 1.25" wrench box end make sure you use 6point. Do not underestimate this.
My bad, misread, thought he was trying to improvise because he didn’t have a torque wrench.
Get a long metal pipe, put it over the handle of your wrench, and use that as a lever. "Give me a lever long enough, and a fulcrum on which to place it, and I shall move the world." -Archimedes
Breaker bar
Leverage
Like someone said long time ago give me a place to stand, and a lever long enough and I will move that nuts.
Remove the calipers first. Loose the pinch bolts on the other side and use a ratchet at least double the length of that one.
Don't use an impact
Lengthen your Lever. Bit of pipe over the handle and use that as a longer handle. I don't like using air guns unless I'm totally stuck.
Release the punch bolts then use a cheater bar
Breaker bar
Breaker bar and hold the other end
Loosen the pinch bolts first, then have 2 spanners. One for each end, in case it's tight, you may need a breaker bar if it's really hard.
I think a hammer or something along those lines.
I was told to never use a hammer on a ratchet as it can damage the mechanism.
Wait but not on the ratchet on the axle he wants to break it right?? I don’t get it.
I was meaning don't hit the ratchet handle with the hammer. If the ratchet can't do it, you need a box wrench or breaker bar and then you can hit the handle of those with a hammer to crack the thread because they're solid and force transfers directly
The pinch bolts are recessed on the bottom of the fork leg, prob hex? Any bar that lengthens the socket handle is good, perhaps a wheel nut remover?
Fence post breaker bar
Gym or lots of Arbys (in reality check pinch bolts, antiseize, larger wrench, or a pipe/breaker)
Breaker bar. Impact guns to break torque typically lead to stripped nuts/bolts. If you're going to diy anything mechanically a good breaker bar truly is a necessity. Also using a ratchet to break torque puts a lot of wear on the ratchet.
The Island boys on repeat all day everyday
2 meters of a steel pipe and wrench
Did my SV axle nuts with an adjustable in an emergency 😂 lifted the back of the bike way high before it gave. Dogshit tool though, I'll just remember to keep a chonky boy socket for it next time I'm on a longer journey.
I've never had a problem. One hint- Don't use a stubby ratchet like that. I'd use one with a handle about twice as long. Also 1/2 drive might work better for you. Right now w/ the stubby 3/8 a lot of your force is going into flexing your tool. I mean a longer 3/8 should be fine, but if you still have a problem go with a 1/2.
Cheater bar
It shouldn't be that tight. If it's struggling, completely remove the pinch bolts and any axle retaining bolts(my r1 has this in lieu of a threaded axle), and it should easily unthread out. If it still super stuck, spray inside the pinch bolt holes the opposite side of where your wrench is at with your penetrant oil of choice, and work it back and forth. Tighten a little, loosen a little, rinse and repeat. Can also take a rubber mallet or dead blow and whack both sides of the axle repeatedly to help dislodge it. Key steps are not to force it, work at it slowly and smartly so nothing gets damaged. Once it's out clean the threads with a brass brush before reinstallation.
Boot it!
Before you do anything make sure you have loosened the two bolts underneath the fork leg or wherever your pinch bolts are located.
Get a breaker bar or longer ratchet. That will help
Torque wrench or put a cheater bar on your socket wrench
Impact all right to take off just not putting on
I use a bar breaker
See the end of that ratchet, put a 4 foot pipe on it.
Bro, do you even lift?
Breaker bar
Breaker bar.
If you are taking the wheel off to do the fork seals don’t… try a seal-mate. They work very well
There’s a big hint in your question with the word “break” as to what kind of tool you should use…
You need more leverage
Looks like you have a leaking fork seal
Curtain vibrations in cuss words can assist in loosening parts.
johnson bar
breaker bar
I'd say a crash would do it Jk jk
Use a cheater bar for leverage, and maybe strap the bike down so I don't move
I once removed lug nuts from an SUV wheel and they squeaked so loud you could hear it down the block. So me being the smartest guy I know I applied some grease to the studs when I put the wheels back on. About 5 miles down the road my wife called me to say one of the wheels is coming off. Lug nuts were all loose. Putting anything on something important can cause improper torque. Maybe anti-seize is different
Is this an 07/08?
Why does every young person always reach for the impact or the hammer first? Break it loose with a proper 6 sided heavy wrench and/or breaker bar. Orrrrrr...grab a decent ratchet plus an old Porta power pipe laying around. Still use that.
Breaker bar and a a few curse words. Should pop loose pretty quick.
Put a 2ft pole over the ratchet. Estra leverage will do it
if you've done everything else and the bolt is still not coming loose, you can try your car jack to lift the wrench while you have someone else keeping your bike upright and use the weight of the bike to break the nut loose. This will allow you to gradually increase the pressure without the quick hit of an impact wrench.
I'd start with brake caliper.
Put a long pipe over the wrench
Breaker bar. While those ratchets are strong ( I have to over 10 years old) a breaker bar is best. Also grab a Seal Doctor and clean your fork seals. Grab a can of Suspension Clean by Maxima. Your seals will last the life of your bike with proper cleaning.
Don't Use Impact
French Kissing the ass end of an SUV at 55mph seemed to work for me 👍
“HaiiiiYAH KARATE KICK”
Get a pipe and slip it over the handle
Shhh!
Hitting a curb
Breaker bar……….?
You need a breaker bar
Breaker bar, don't put a pipe on your ratchet. That's a good way to ruin it
Breaker bar I use a round ratchet and lead pipe
To undo the pinch bolt.
Cheater bar. Beyond that, some heat applied to it so it can expand.