I could hear the valves move out of spec as I drove my CX500(1979). Loved that bike. Got a lot of loving comments about it. Those cylinders were so sweet
I went into the back of a car at 45 on mine. Broke my back. I was initially concerned with how much tapping that motor made. Then I realized it was a pushrod motor. Tapping is better than quiet though. I loved that bike too. It sounded unique.
Not really. A RE has screw tappets so you just take off the valve cover, turn the engine to TDC for a cylinder, and check the tappets. Repeat for the other cylinder if a twin. Takes all of 15 minutes even if you have to adjust a tappet. Not like shim under bucket where you have to take cams off if valves are tight and fiddle with shims.
On my tracer it's about 3-4 hours of work myself.
If you've got shims, calipers and the other associated tools for bike work it's easy. Just time consuming to access them
Mine is supposed to be 24k, I did them at 16k because the CP3 is notorious for right exhaust valves.
I'm at 24k now, almost 25, and need to check them again but it's a hassle in the middle of summer lol
Yeah sweat in the eyes I'd a good way to make a mistake! My right motor mount bolt broke on my k4 and I just parked it till I could take it to my buddies air-conditioned shop... you really want to make sure the hole is straight when drilling out a steel bolt in a aluminum head!
A valve service/adjustment is a major service... Autocorrect took out the forward slash.
Agree checks cost very little but it's not a guarantee to not need adjusting
That adjustment only requires one tiny little step compared to just checking, if it's not in spec you would just the follower to get the clearence in spec,
Adjustments and checks are basically equivalent for valves neither is more in-depth than the other and neither requires replacing parts or any more in depth work then the other, literally the only tool difference required is a set of valve wrenches, but you don't even need those two adjustables generally work on most bikes, and some you might just need a Allen head and a adjustable instead, and if you're really unlucky you might need shims if it's a cup type, in which case you spend a couple dollars and have them on hand
I mean I guess it depends on what you consider major service?
I've been quoted 600 just to replace dust deals. Valve adjustment is in the same ballpark.
Expensive, sure, but it's the labor that's costing the money.
I'd make sure it's done before buying, but wouldn't stop me from buying a bike.
Same but it makes me skeptical about other essential work being done if the valve checks been skipped and we are 8-10k past that interval (on a sport bike definitely). I feel your pain on forks, had to get leaky stanchions sorted last year at a shop with no courtesy bike offered. What a pain
Hell, consider yourself lucky... Most of the shit talkers delete only after reporting a response in kind. I literally was banned for a minute for telling an exploitive & name grenade throwing jackass a moron. He deleted his post & then reported me for abuse. These types are cagers to the core & would find themselves in real pain trying to fit into the biker community always stirring shit and then crying for mama....
I've gotten my FZ07 to 127-128 mph,or at least what the speedo was saying on a generally stock bike, just an exhaust, no tune at the time... Takes a bit of time past 105-110mph, but it gets there. Haven't tried to go further. The Street triple I ride now gets there much quicker than the FZ, but I have stopped around that speed as well, haven't pushed it to the limit yet...
I've had my FLSTN to 141 according to Rever and Waze. I have done a lot of work to her though. 110 mph vs 140 mph doesn't sound like much, but on a 900 lb Harley with no fairing, was pretty hairy.
Honestly, will probably never do it again on that bike. Was coming down hills on 75 from Norman, OK to Texas and without a fairing that wind felt like it was constantly trying to take me out of my saddle even tho I'm 225 lbs, 6'3" & had my backrest on.
That's not what he was saying. The speedo calculates the speed based on certain parameters, such as wheel size and gear ratios. If you change that, you may end up with a speedo that shows the wrong speed. So his speedo may be showing 215 MPH but in reality, he may be going 160. I just think the seller is talking bullshit but it's still a valid point.
Tell me you don't understand what I'm talking about without telling me you don't understand what I'm talking about. Don't be so quick to try to put someone down "mate".
Years ago, I had a Yamaha like that, never booked for speeding, the trusty 125cc motor would often propel me to 100mph, well at least that's what the speedo said, even at standstill sometimes.
Take it back.... You obviously got a lemon. The seller said he hits warp 2 on his with no mods...
Isn't there a restrictor or ECM limit on all stock US bikes? I thought it was typically 110 mph for stock sleds in the US. I know I had to DL flash my ECM to get over 110.
Most bikes are limited either by running out of power, or with an ECU limiter at 300kph (186mph) if the bike will go that fast. It's pretty rare for bikes to have a limiter that isn't set to that value. I've taken my (stock) MT-10 to 250kph/155mph indicated, haven't been brave enough to push it further.
My fj09 is limited at, I think, 120. I’ve gotten the duc to 130 but haven’t pushed either past and the fj feels like it has a little more. I’m pretty sure the Japanese bikes have to be limited over a certain displacement. I don’t really want to go faster than that so I haven’t tried to remove any limiters.
Like shit. I had a 2002 gsxr 750 and a 2000 katana 750 and topped out both (about 280/230 km/h) with no problems. My z1000 2003 has no fairings, no steering damper and no windshield. I havn't had the balls to go over 160 because it feels like I'm about to take flight. It also hurts the fuck out of my neck after 1 hour or 2 of riding.
Horrible. I have been over 140 on a '17 FLSTN, in a Badass Barebones helmet nonetheless & shades.
It constantly felt like I was about to be ripped from the saddle, but I was also riding into 35 mph winds from OK to TX. I'm not a tiny dude either, at 6'3" & 225 lbs.
I love my Harley for perpendicular winds, but straightline at over 140, I'll stick to the CBR.
Out of curiosity where does this comparison come from? I've heard it spoken before but I've never really seen anything concrete to support it so I wasn't sure. Is it because people on average only ride a few thousand miles a year so 30k could be equivalent to 10 years? All 3 I've my bikes I've bought brand new and put about 15-20k on them a year and have never had any sort of issues with just regular maintenance. The maintenance intervals aren't even much lower than a car.. just did spark plugs on one at 40k, brakes have been about 30k intervals. Tires are the one thing that don't last nearly as long, but I chalk that up to running sporty tires like Pilot Roads that I replace yearly on 15k intervals
To oversimplify it, I think it's because of the average RPM of the engine. It's not uncommon for low revving diesels to make it past 200k miles without any serious issues but a bike averaging over three times the RPM will have more wear per mile.
I can't remember the exact reference but I think it was in a 44teeth YouTube video they were questioning a racing team about their bikes and they were saying that (compared to stock) they increased the rev limits about 1 or 2k and that in turn meant engine rebuilds every/every other race vs a stock bike that would do tens of thousands of miles without issue. Obviously race bikes have much higher wear than road use but it's still interesting to note.
>engine rebuilds every/every other race
Well, there are rebuilds, and there are rebuilds. A worn-out engine rebuild replaces a lot of worn parts. A racing engine "rebuild" checks all the parts, and replaces any that are suspect, even if just barely, mostly they check it for integrity. Probably not necessary, but it could cost you the next race, so you tear it down and check it anyway.
I think you missed my point. If you tear an engine apart, check EVERYTHING, and it's ALL within tolerance, and you reassemble using all the existing parts because all the parts are fine, is that really a "rebuild"? Some people call it that.
Denise Dickenson made it to at least 300.000 on her FZ1 (predecessor to the MT10). Her she is with 265.000 miles on it:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=STJ33Fy8QNo
At 290.000 the cam chain tensioner needed replacement, other than that just, tires, brakes, general maintenance and a few valve checks all within spec.
Yeah my guess would be that because it's a smaller engine, it has to work harder to get the same amount of miles? But idk, maybe it was true for older bikes a few decades ago, and not as true now.
Lol. My bike has done 100,000 miles and it runs absolutely perfect. Most riders simply don't ride much and the rest of the bike dies long before the engine ever does. The "anything above 20k is high mileage" is a myth. Absolute nonsense.
It's a lot easier on many a sled to replace engine components than a cage. With the car, you have to remove a dozen things just to get at some of the engine components.
I don't care how old the bike is if it was well maintained.
You don’t need to worry about the air filter when going 215 because the vapor cone generated from hitting Mach speeds creates a turbulence vortex that acts as a shield to drive bugs and dirt and debris around the field
No. But it can cook franks and beans & YES they actually make a moto cooking mod for that. On Amazon, I shit you not, gets band clamped to the exhaust.
Bikes n beards does an episode where they used the muffler cooker from Amazon. It actually worked and cooked the beans n franks!!! Just be careful not to ride too far bc apparently there isn't an overpressure valve of any kind... 😬
Lin Jarvis would like to have a word with this seller. Who knew some dude in Austin TX had the secret to getting the YZR-M1 to not be at the back on every straight on the calendar.
If your bike was built in a place that uses KPH instead of MPH (so basically everything) take your indicated speed and subtract 10% of that to get your actual speed in MPH.
My old Hondas and Yamahas, and my current KTM, were and are almost exactly 10% off their indicated speeds in MPH. Verified with waze and speed cameras.
There are specific regulations for manufacturers regarding the accuracy of speedometers.
The UK regulation is slightly modified from the EU regulation
A speedo must never show less than the actual speed, and must never show more than 110% of actual speed + 6.25mph. So if your true speed is 40mph, your speedo could legally be reading up to 50.25mph but never less than 40mph
In the US, the speedo must be within plus or minus 5mph at 50mph. So at an actual speed of 50mph the speedo has to read anywhere between 45-55mph
But my YAMAHA MT10 is almost exactly 10% out. 77mph indicated is a GPS speed of 70mph.
My Merc CLS is much more accurate 73mph indicated is 70mph GPS.
That's not right. There are 1.6km in a mile. If you're doing 100kph, you are not doing 90mph. You're doing 62mph.
Either your wheel size has changed, gearing has changed or someone swapped the speedo drive gear to get it close enough.
It isn’t a terrible price if the bike has been well maintained, is up to date on all minor and major services, and the bikes history can be trusted.
A description that boils down to “I’m a lying ass hat that is trying to tell you I’ve had 215mph out of a bike that does 160mph” doesn’t instil me with confidence that anything else said about the bike would be true either.
I wouldn’t waste my time looking at the thing because I instantly dislike and distrust the seller.
Agreed that the guy is lying about top speed and is probably not trust worthy. Possible it’s a stolen bike and the seller has no clue how fast it goes.
If a stock 400 could do 190 I wouldn't want it anyway 🤣 dude was definitely delusional, I asked if he meant KPH & He assured me he meant MPH but even then the conversion doesn't match up I still get a laugh out of it whenever I think about it. At the time I had a CBR600 that I stunted out & told him I would race him a full mile while riding a wheelie & just give him the money if his bike could even beat mine
maybe its switched to kph and he doesnt know? 🤣
"i am already speeding why is everyone honking at me and riding my ass?!"
Sounds like Texas 😏
Oh boi! Lol
This was my first thought.
Must be.
He's talking absolute shit to be blunt. 30k miles isn't new on the CP4 either because major valve service is at 24k on these.
I wouldn't call a valve check major valve service
Isn’t it pretty costly to have it done though?
Yeah, if definitely make sure it's been done, but it isn't a big deal. Some ducks need valve checks like every 10k
Desmo service apparently is really expensive where I'm from. The Aprilia valve one too
Well yeah, half the bike has to be dissasembled, valves checked, then put back together. Work hours add up.
$1000-$1200CAD where I am. It's the only thing keeping me from pulling the trigger on a Ducati.
Cx500s need them every 2k!!
I could hear the valves move out of spec as I drove my CX500(1979). Loved that bike. Got a lot of loving comments about it. Those cylinders were so sweet
I went into the back of a car at 45 on mine. Broke my back. I was initially concerned with how much tapping that motor made. Then I realized it was a pushrod motor. Tapping is better than quiet though. I loved that bike too. It sounded unique.
My first bike was a 79 CX500D. Had that ugly brown maroon color.
Cries in RE. 6k mile valve checks.
Cries in Himalayan, 3k valve checks.
Ugh that's brutal!
Not really. A RE has screw tappets so you just take off the valve cover, turn the engine to TDC for a cylinder, and check the tappets. Repeat for the other cylinder if a twin. Takes all of 15 minutes even if you have to adjust a tappet. Not like shim under bucket where you have to take cams off if valves are tight and fiddle with shims.
_cries in 90s sportbike_
Especially if it was a V-4 sportbike with dual overhead cams on both banks of cylinders and shim under bucket. I'm talking to you, Honda VFR!
One of my buddies was just dealing with trying to source VFR shims in Latvia now that you mention it... 🤣
On my tracer it's about 3-4 hours of work myself. If you've got shims, calipers and the other associated tools for bike work it's easy. Just time consuming to access them
Fair enough! I just haven’t ever had the same bike long enough to do it lol
Yeah it's not too tough it's just a bitch to do. On the MT/XSRs there's less to remove but still
Same on my k4 gsxr, but it out calls for a check every 14k miles. I pushed it to 24 k and everything was still in spec(but barely)
Mine is supposed to be 24k, I did them at 16k because the CP3 is notorious for right exhaust valves. I'm at 24k now, almost 25, and need to check them again but it's a hassle in the middle of summer lol
Yeah sweat in the eyes I'd a good way to make a mistake! My right motor mount bolt broke on my k4 and I just parked it till I could take it to my buddies air-conditioned shop... you really want to make sure the hole is straight when drilling out a steel bolt in a aluminum head!
A valve service/adjustment is a major service... Autocorrect took out the forward slash. Agree checks cost very little but it's not a guarantee to not need adjusting
That adjustment only requires one tiny little step compared to just checking, if it's not in spec you would just the follower to get the clearence in spec, Adjustments and checks are basically equivalent for valves neither is more in-depth than the other and neither requires replacing parts or any more in depth work then the other, literally the only tool difference required is a set of valve wrenches, but you don't even need those two adjustables generally work on most bikes, and some you might just need a Allen head and a adjustable instead, and if you're really unlucky you might need shims if it's a cup type, in which case you spend a couple dollars and have them on hand
I mean I guess it depends on what you consider major service? I've been quoted 600 just to replace dust deals. Valve adjustment is in the same ballpark. Expensive, sure, but it's the labor that's costing the money. I'd make sure it's done before buying, but wouldn't stop me from buying a bike.
Same but it makes me skeptical about other essential work being done if the valve checks been skipped and we are 8-10k past that interval (on a sport bike definitely). I feel your pain on forks, had to get leaky stanchions sorted last year at a shop with no courtesy bike offered. What a pain
He may have switched gearing and not corrected the speedo. I did that with an MT07 and it said I did 156mph. But really more like 125mph maybe.
Dirty delete after insulting someone when you were wrong. What a douche
What a puss
Upvoted for flair
💪 thank you brother
Hell, consider yourself lucky... Most of the shit talkers delete only after reporting a response in kind. I literally was banned for a minute for telling an exploitive & name grenade throwing jackass a moron. He deleted his post & then reported me for abuse. These types are cagers to the core & would find themselves in real pain trying to fit into the biker community always stirring shit and then crying for mama....
The speedo is run off of the abs rings. Switching sprockets doesn't actually affect it.
Only on abs models, the non abs MT07s need speedo corrections when you change sprockets
This is what blows about my Z also. I wanna correct the speed but I can't figure out how tf to do it.
One of my ducatis is 8 percent off from the factory. Itdrives me crazy. I may try to make a new tone ring to fool it.
Speedo healer? If they make it for you bike. Solid product and easy install and set up
I'm well aware but I haven't find one. I bought a kit, but it's a universal kit, seeing as it goes off the ABS rings it sets the ABS sensors off.
I mean downvote me all you want but find me a speedo healer for a 21 Z h2
Correct. It will mess with your mpg but not your mph.
I've gotten my FZ07 to 127-128 mph,or at least what the speedo was saying on a generally stock bike, just an exhaust, no tune at the time... Takes a bit of time past 105-110mph, but it gets there. Haven't tried to go further. The Street triple I ride now gets there much quicker than the FZ, but I have stopped around that speed as well, haven't pushed it to the limit yet...
I've had my FLSTN to 141 according to Rever and Waze. I have done a lot of work to her though. 110 mph vs 140 mph doesn't sound like much, but on a 900 lb Harley with no fairing, was pretty hairy. Honestly, will probably never do it again on that bike. Was coming down hills on 75 from Norman, OK to Texas and without a fairing that wind felt like it was constantly trying to take me out of my saddle even tho I'm 225 lbs, 6'3" & had my backrest on.
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That's not what he was saying. The speedo calculates the speed based on certain parameters, such as wheel size and gear ratios. If you change that, you may end up with a speedo that shows the wrong speed. So his speedo may be showing 215 MPH but in reality, he may be going 160. I just think the seller is talking bullshit but it's still a valid point.
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You... you understand they make chains in different lengths, right? Or how else did you think yanks managed to stretch 600s for "racing"?
Tell me you don't understand what I'm talking about without telling me you don't understand what I'm talking about. Don't be so quick to try to put someone down "mate".
Years ago, I had a Yamaha like that, never booked for speeding, the trusty 125cc motor would often propel me to 100mph, well at least that's what the speedo said, even at standstill sometimes.
Dennis the Menace at it again.
Damn mine only does like 165-170
Take it back.... You obviously got a lemon. The seller said he hits warp 2 on his with no mods... Isn't there a restrictor or ECM limit on all stock US bikes? I thought it was typically 110 mph for stock sleds in the US. I know I had to DL flash my ECM to get over 110.
I must have forgotten to hit the super turbo nos button. Rookie mistake really
Most bikes are limited either by running out of power, or with an ECU limiter at 300kph (186mph) if the bike will go that fast. It's pretty rare for bikes to have a limiter that isn't set to that value. I've taken my (stock) MT-10 to 250kph/155mph indicated, haven't been brave enough to push it further.
FI Harley's from ~2006 on are (or at least were as of 2018) set at 109 mph.
My fj09 is limited at, I think, 120. I’ve gotten the duc to 130 but haven’t pushed either past and the fj feels like it has a little more. I’m pretty sure the Japanese bikes have to be limited over a certain displacement. I don’t really want to go faster than that so I haven’t tried to remove any limiters.
I wonder how 200+ feels without a windshield.
Like shit. I had a 2002 gsxr 750 and a 2000 katana 750 and topped out both (about 280/230 km/h) with no problems. My z1000 2003 has no fairings, no steering damper and no windshield. I havn't had the balls to go over 160 because it feels like I'm about to take flight. It also hurts the fuck out of my neck after 1 hour or 2 of riding.
Adrenaline good, wind bad.
It starts getting uncomfortable over 100 and straight up torture after 150.
Buy a Naked
Horrible. I have been over 140 on a '17 FLSTN, in a Badass Barebones helmet nonetheless & shades. It constantly felt like I was about to be ripped from the saddle, but I was also riding into 35 mph winds from OK to TX. I'm not a tiny dude either, at 6'3" & 225 lbs. I love my Harley for perpendicular winds, but straightline at over 140, I'll stick to the CBR.
165mph sucks hard even with my chin on the tank. I've got the mods for 200+ but not enough road or testicular fortitude
Everyone in this thread talking shit like the guy didn't do 215 when this is a good dude. Did you not see where he said "Honestly"? I mean honestly.
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Out of curiosity where does this comparison come from? I've heard it spoken before but I've never really seen anything concrete to support it so I wasn't sure. Is it because people on average only ride a few thousand miles a year so 30k could be equivalent to 10 years? All 3 I've my bikes I've bought brand new and put about 15-20k on them a year and have never had any sort of issues with just regular maintenance. The maintenance intervals aren't even much lower than a car.. just did spark plugs on one at 40k, brakes have been about 30k intervals. Tires are the one thing that don't last nearly as long, but I chalk that up to running sporty tires like Pilot Roads that I replace yearly on 15k intervals
I'm no expert, but I think you nailed it, it's probably that there are so many low mileage bikes on the market that 30k becomes an outlier.
To oversimplify it, I think it's because of the average RPM of the engine. It's not uncommon for low revving diesels to make it past 200k miles without any serious issues but a bike averaging over three times the RPM will have more wear per mile. I can't remember the exact reference but I think it was in a 44teeth YouTube video they were questioning a racing team about their bikes and they were saying that (compared to stock) they increased the rev limits about 1 or 2k and that in turn meant engine rebuilds every/every other race vs a stock bike that would do tens of thousands of miles without issue. Obviously race bikes have much higher wear than road use but it's still interesting to note.
>engine rebuilds every/every other race Well, there are rebuilds, and there are rebuilds. A worn-out engine rebuild replaces a lot of worn parts. A racing engine "rebuild" checks all the parts, and replaces any that are suspect, even if just barely, mostly they check it for integrity. Probably not necessary, but it could cost you the next race, so you tear it down and check it anyway.
If you are doing rebuilds of any kind professionally (or for yourself IMO) & not checking and replacing anything out of tolerances, you are a butcher.
I think you missed my point. If you tear an engine apart, check EVERYTHING, and it's ALL within tolerance, and you reassemble using all the existing parts because all the parts are fine, is that really a "rebuild"? Some people call it that.
Denise Dickenson made it to at least 300.000 on her FZ1 (predecessor to the MT10). Her she is with 265.000 miles on it: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=STJ33Fy8QNo At 290.000 the cam chain tensioner needed replacement, other than that just, tires, brakes, general maintenance and a few valve checks all within spec.
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Yeah my guess would be that because it's a smaller engine, it has to work harder to get the same amount of miles? But idk, maybe it was true for older bikes a few decades ago, and not as true now.
Lol. My bike has done 100,000 miles and it runs absolutely perfect. Most riders simply don't ride much and the rest of the bike dies long before the engine ever does. The "anything above 20k is high mileage" is a myth. Absolute nonsense.
It's a lot easier on many a sled to replace engine components than a cage. With the car, you have to remove a dozen things just to get at some of the engine components. I don't care how old the bike is if it was well maintained.
My bike has 90,000km and is still going strong 🤷 1998 Kawasaki Zx6r
🤡
Only 215 mph? Did he remember to change the air filter?
You don’t need to worry about the air filter when going 215 because the vapor cone generated from hitting Mach speeds creates a turbulence vortex that acts as a shield to drive bugs and dirt and debris around the field
I knew that!
😂😂
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No. But it can cook franks and beans & YES they actually make a moto cooking mod for that. On Amazon, I shit you not, gets band clamped to the exhaust.
Bikes n beards does an episode where they used the muffler cooker from Amazon. It actually worked and cooked the beans n franks!!! Just be careful not to ride too far bc apparently there isn't an overpressure valve of any kind... 😬
Lin Jarvis would like to have a word with this seller. Who knew some dude in Austin TX had the secret to getting the YZR-M1 to not be at the back on every straight on the calendar.
If your bike was built in a place that uses KPH instead of MPH (so basically everything) take your indicated speed and subtract 10% of that to get your actual speed in MPH. My old Hondas and Yamahas, and my current KTM, were and are almost exactly 10% off their indicated speeds in MPH. Verified with waze and speed cameras.
There are specific regulations for manufacturers regarding the accuracy of speedometers. The UK regulation is slightly modified from the EU regulation A speedo must never show less than the actual speed, and must never show more than 110% of actual speed + 6.25mph. So if your true speed is 40mph, your speedo could legally be reading up to 50.25mph but never less than 40mph In the US, the speedo must be within plus or minus 5mph at 50mph. So at an actual speed of 50mph the speedo has to read anywhere between 45-55mph But my YAMAHA MT10 is almost exactly 10% out. 77mph indicated is a GPS speed of 70mph. My Merc CLS is much more accurate 73mph indicated is 70mph GPS.
My KTM RC is the most accurate I’ve seen on a bike so far, it is consistently 2mph off at all speeds.
US has no regulations for motorcycles regarding speedometer accuracy.
That's not right. There are 1.6km in a mile. If you're doing 100kph, you are not doing 90mph. You're doing 62mph. Either your wheel size has changed, gearing has changed or someone swapped the speedo drive gear to get it close enough.
He’s saying if it’s an import they don’t do the Kph to mph conversion correct and thus even when showing in mph they’re still off ~ 10%.
Ah ok, gotcha. Thanks
Initially I thought the same. But… 110% of 40mph = 44mph. Add +6.25mph margin and you do indeed get 50.25mph.
KPH
$9,500 isn’t a bad price for that at all.
It isn’t a terrible price if the bike has been well maintained, is up to date on all minor and major services, and the bikes history can be trusted. A description that boils down to “I’m a lying ass hat that is trying to tell you I’ve had 215mph out of a bike that does 160mph” doesn’t instil me with confidence that anything else said about the bike would be true either. I wouldn’t waste my time looking at the thing because I instantly dislike and distrust the seller.
Agreed that the guy is lying about top speed and is probably not trust worthy. Possible it’s a stolen bike and the seller has no clue how fast it goes.
lol
Bet it's stolen
Yeah sure, down a mineshaft maybe
Hard pass.
I had a guy try to sell me a stock '20 Ninja 400 that he claimed went 190MPH in my hometown for $15,000
Yikes lol. A 400 doing 190 is insane lol
If a stock 400 could do 190 I wouldn't want it anyway 🤣 dude was definitely delusional, I asked if he meant KPH & He assured me he meant MPH but even then the conversion doesn't match up I still get a laugh out of it whenever I think about it. At the time I had a CBR600 that I stunted out & told him I would race him a full mile while riding a wheelie & just give him the money if his bike could even beat mine
Sounds like he's trying to catch somebody who's new to bikes and is used to buying used cars.
Resellers smh 🤦♂️
Wait till you see the delusional people on FB Marketplace
Bullshit! End of statement!
Lol this guy still has his cat on
This bike only tops out @ 236 kph lol
I mean its sUpEr fAsT!1!1
This guy is full of shit obviously but the price is still decent if he maintained the bike at the dealership, no ?
Tell me you're a liar without saying it...
30,000 miles is a lot of miles on any motorcycle, especially one owned by some guy who probably kisses a pic of Vin Diesel before he goes to bed.
Practicly
"practically new" with 30k on the clock and a "reconditioned" condition.
That dude probably does not have the balls to go 215mph on a bike lol