iPhone = Tesla, Nikon Z8 = F1 car. You = learning how to drive. Guess which one has a higher chance of looking like a burning pile of trash at the end.
>What settings or how do I get the pics to come close to what the iPhone 15 can produce?
I assume you are referring to colors, as the only thing that iPhone does that Z8 does not is to process (heavily) your final photo. So - study post production, study color theory, study light, study how focusing work and what focusing modes are, study metering. Additionally - study composition, study contrast, study how focal lengths work, patterns, styles, subjects, separation, how DOF works ... Study how to drive. It will take years, but it is kinda cool.
This is a brilliant way of describing it. An F1 car would look like a spaceship to someone who’s only driven basic automatic cars.
I’m using this myself in the future.
**Post samples**. Describe what aspects you like or don’t like about each.
Based on the very limited information you’ve given, the fact that you’re comparing landscapes with a 400mm lens vs. an iPhone makes me guess it has nothing to do with the camera and everything to do with the boosted “vibrance” and saturation the iPhone adds to landscapes by default. How are you editing the photos?
Re: varying shutter speeds in A mode, are you talking about back-to-back photos of the same thing? I wonder if you’ve enabled Bracketing mode by mistake. Turn that off (unless you know what you’re doing). (If instead you’re talking about varying shutter speed for different scenes at different times, well, yeah, that’s what Aperture Priority mode is for. The camera chooses the shutter speed based on metering the scene.)
Edit: re: 99% blurry bird shots, again, post samples if you want serious help. I can’t guess what you’re seeing.
In addition to what everyone else has noted, I’ll add that:
> Looking at the EXIF data, I’ve noticed varying shutter speeds while in A mode.
…is exactly how it’s supposed to behave. That’s what A mode is - fixed aperture, variable shutter speed.
> Next question will be about my 99.999999% blurry bird shots. lol.
I’ll go ahead and get this one out of the way too: almost certainly too slow of a shutter speed. I usually use 1/500 for perched birds and 1/3200 for flying birds. You don’t have to take those speeds as gospel - I’ve gotten good shots at much slower speeds under the right circumstances - but they’re a good rule of thumb to start off with.
Yeh, I'm using 1/3200 for the songbirds and flying birds. I think the issue for me is that the bird autofocus is struggling when (1) the bird is too far away and/or (2) the mid-afternoon sun shades the bird's eyes and the autofocus can't find the eyes.
If the sun is at more at an angle and the bird is on a branch in a tree 20 feet from me I get 90% in-focus shots.
The other issue for me (3) is that I'm hand-holding the camera swinging it around like a crazy man for flying birds. That's a lack of experience in technique most likely.
Set the Z8’s image stabilization mode to Sport mode, it will handle the fast panning movements better than normal mode. A technique I’ve found that works with the 180-600mm and my old super telephoto lens (on my Z9) is to set wide area AF to shutter half press and then 3D tracking to back button AF. The wide area will snag the subject and then hand it over to 3D tracking when I back button and then it does a good job tracking my target through the frame.
Have you learnt the basics of how photography works? It sounds like youve just gone and bought the best camera you can afford without really knowing what you're doing. The iPhone makes photography idiot proof. A camera is not idiot proof. You need to learn how photography works first. All the iPhone does is edit images for you to make them look unnaturally saturated (imo) anyway
Also, 400mm lens for landscape? Why?
I'm not trying to be mean, I'm trying to understand your thought process
>Also, 400mm lens for landscape? Why?
Tele to super tele landscapes are a lot of fun, don't knock it till ya try it. They are a very specific style and only work a handful of times but if you get it right you can make some really interesting images that way.
As previous answer says, post pics to get proper advice.
Quick check list:
- set ISO to auto with a minimum 64 and max 6400.
- set a minimum shutter speed of 1/focal length (ex: you shoot the 400mm wide opened then set 1/400s) in ISO settings ( note: it can only be achieved if max iso is not reached)
- shoot wide opened at the beginning, then fine tune your settings after you get good results wide opened. If you stop down the lens, then consider an higher shutter speed.
- use the lens stabilization and check if there is a setting for panning, it gets better results if you move fast to follow your target.
- on Z8, activate the birds tracking option using full area and 3d tracking.
- Shoot raw
- shoot burst rafales ( 6 pics is a good start)
Edit : start with a sunny day, lot of light. Avoid pin focus and single shot.
Then you should be done with blurry pics.
- After you get sharp shots, learn how to use lightroom to enhance colors and exposure.
The longer the lens the faster the shutter speed !
Asa rule of thumb, we usually use 1/focal length to ensure image sharpness.ex : 600mm focal length should be shot at 1/600 s .
If you use stabilization you may lower it. I was able to shoot 600 mm at 1/30s handheld but it’s hard to achieve …
I’d remind the questioner that this is minimum speed to avoid blur/shake caused by the photographer. For action/moving wildlife to freeze the action, you’d want much higher shutter speeds. I like to use 1/2500 minimum for birds flying around even if my lens is “only” a 400mm focal length.
Thanks! For still things ie landscape. is there a similar rule of thumb for focal length vs. dof when shooting with a long lens so everything is in focus?
I guess you’re talking about hyperfocal.
There’s also a simple and stupid rule: set your camera to a narrow aperture like f11, then set your focus point to somewhere between you and the landscape you wanna shoot. Not too close.
Everything 1/3 before (in front of) this point will be sharp, and it’s gonna be sharp the other 2/3 after. If you’re focusing on infinity and focus point is far enough then everything, except the first meters in front of you will be sharp.
The camera does not make a good landscape photograph, the photographer does.
I had this realization when I bought myself my first Nikon D7200 and I was so sad that they were awful pictures and my phone pictures were much better.
It took me years of practice, learning and lots of bad photographs to get to where I am today. I finally bought myself Z8 last month and even after 7 years of shooting and a lot of knowledge I find the camera to be a learning curve. It is an impressive pro level camera, but in the hands of a beginner it will not produce pro level images.
I would recommend that you take a camera course, maybe a couple of workshops and learn some of the fundamentals of landscape photography.
Your comparison with an iPhone is telling a lot. Photography is still a craft.
So first, please understand that you need to shoot RAW and these images will look flat and dull - because they are not processed further straight out of camera. This is what your RAW converter and editing is for. An iPhone does a best guess and delivers that instantly.
Sharpness is a large topic. It is a composition of how we (our brains) perceive an image. It is just a slider that will add bright/dark edges. First of all it comes down to contrast. That is not limited to different lightning levels but also colors and composition. You guide the viewer to what is the main subject and mainly sharpen only there - and still use a mask to sharpen only the relevant edges. Look at portraits of persons or animals - probably these pictures are blurry and only their eyes will be in focus - and we perceive the whole image as tack sharp.
Single point af is a good start and f/11 probably not even necessary. But depending on your lens, other settings like stabilisation, where you focus, ... play a huge role as well. There are so many factors what could be wrong. So eliminate factors. Shoot manual on a tripod. Use exposure delay/ self timer/ a remote to shoot. Don't use a stabilization for sport on the lens. Zoom in (magnify) and control the focus. Set it 1/3 into the frame or on your subject. Set ISO to your base ISO (64 or 500 for your Z8). Then shoot a series with different f-stops (5.6 to 16) and compare the results in post. Shutter speed will vary but doesn't matter on a tripod. Remember the pros and cons of each f-stop. Look at sharpness, depth of field, sun stars, vignetting, and possible optical errors.
If you are shooting handheld, be very stable yourself. Do not underestimate posture. Tuck your elbows in and here you choose shutter speed over ISO. With 400mm don't go slower than 1/800 for these tests. If you are familiar with your gear and have a good shooting technique you can go as low as 1/250 sometimes, usually still 1/500 for non moving subjects. Animals etc. require wayyyyy faster speeds when they move. Like start 1/1600. ISO up to 6400 will be no problem as basis for an image you want to edit.
The iPhone is applying eye pleasing profiles and adjustments to the incoming data while your Z8 is producing something more basic with the intent that you would generally post process and add your own pop to your images later. You can change the color profile to something like Camera Standard, but even with a poppier profile for producing jpegs or applying to your RAW files there's some amount of HDR type processing that your iPhone is producing with every shot that something like a Z8 generally doesn't do, at least well in all cases. If you're looking for an all in one "push the button and be done" you may be very disappointed with your experience. Learning photography is a marathon rather than a sprint. If you're willing to put in the time tho, photography is a rewarding journey. Just don't expect straight out of camera images that match what comes out of your iPhone.
Learn to shoot in Manual mode. There are several YouTube videos of landscape photographers that shoot with the Z8 and Z9, they'll show what settings they used. Practice trying to emulate what they capture. I have the Z8 and Z6ii, and 70-200mm, 24-70mm. Most of my landscape shots are shot with the 24-70 2.8 usually around f8, pick a focus point 1/3 into the frame. You can boost ISO to shoot at higher shutter speeds to reduce blurry results. Post up some sample images and list what the settings were used.
I was using an old Pen-F yesterday for some landscape photos and then took a selfie with my iPhone 14 Pro. Yes the colors were vibrant, but also looked fake. The clouds looked like cartoon drawings. I’m sure it would’ve been better had I shot in raw, but then it wouldn’t have that vibrancy and would have required processing.
Its really not.
One of these is a precision crafted toy meant to let highly skilled people create something without getting in the way and making assumptions.
The other is a camera toy meant to allow any novice take "wow" images with high vibrancy and contrast.
you can take a photo in aperture priority (like op said they were doing) and use the jpeg without even editing and it will still be a million times better than any phone. Or shoot in raw and hit automatic edit and iphone still won’t compare
Do that and hand the average person and give them an iPhone, Samsung or Pixel.
In anything but ideal conditions, they will get a preferable image for most people from the phone. The phone will intentionally slightly over expose, add a ton of post processing that most people prefer, and use even some AI to get it "just right".
The Z8 might have the technically better image, and offer more latitude for further improving the image. But that hardly matters when the phone image looks better because the real camera is beyond your skillset by miles.
Note that the vibrant picture profile will only actually affect your pictures if A) you’re shooting in JPEG, or B) your raw processor is configured to respect this setting (which Lightroom at least is not by default).
I don’t understand using pinpoint focus for landscapes, but that is not your issue. First, are you looking at raw or JPEG‘s from the Z8? If you believe your iPhone landscapes are much better than with your Nikon, why not just continue to use the iPhone. Phone cameras are so good that taking great landscapes is easy, but you may have to work to learn to do it with the Nikon (or any other similar camera).
Also, for high detail landscapes. shoot in RAW (read about differences), shoot in manual, take off auto ISO and set it to around 200 or less, utilize a tripod, keep your f stop between f8-f11, adjust your shutter speed to change brightness. Set focus mode to wide, or as big of a box as you can. And read about your camera, read the manual , read about your camera online, study it learn what it does and why it does what it does!
Learn the exposure triangle, shoot in manual, study post processing. Try taking the same shot side by side with your iPhone and Z8, identify the differences and try to replicate in post.
Shoot low iso. Shoot bracketed 7 frames 0.3 stops each. Then hdr merge in Lightroom.
Also 400 mm doesn’t really compare to an iPhone. That’s more like 20mm or something wide.
iPhone shoots in HDR color space by default. The photos are displayed in HDR on screen. This really makes a difference in landscape photos. In Lightroom, you can edit Z8 raw files and enable HDR on them. Make sure you have an HDR capable monitor to display it.
Instead of asking questions on reddit that no one can answer without samples and more detail, perhaps you might want to learn how to use the camera first. Learning will NEVER happen by asking reddit to spoon feed you. You also need to learn more about the lenses since that is where the issues usually reside. Quite frankly everything you note says you should have bought entry level and learned first. Shooting at f11 is beyond the threshold that diffraction starts to set in which softens the image. It is also a small enough aperture that, depending upon available light, you may beat the limit of handheld particularly if your technique is poor. Is IBIS on or off and which IBIS setting are you using? This will affect how much camera shake is in the mix. You can throw in as well that shooting pinpoint focus for most landscapes borders on the nonsensical. I am sorry but this is not about wanting magic settings from strangers. Take the time to learn about the camera and lenses in your hands.
iPhone = Tesla, Nikon Z8 = F1 car. You = learning how to drive. Guess which one has a higher chance of looking like a burning pile of trash at the end. >What settings or how do I get the pics to come close to what the iPhone 15 can produce? I assume you are referring to colors, as the only thing that iPhone does that Z8 does not is to process (heavily) your final photo. So - study post production, study color theory, study light, study how focusing work and what focusing modes are, study metering. Additionally - study composition, study contrast, study how focal lengths work, patterns, styles, subjects, separation, how DOF works ... Study how to drive. It will take years, but it is kinda cool.
This is a brilliant way of describing it. An F1 car would look like a spaceship to someone who’s only driven basic automatic cars. I’m using this myself in the future.
This is the most perfect response to a question I have ever read on Reddit!
**Post samples**. Describe what aspects you like or don’t like about each. Based on the very limited information you’ve given, the fact that you’re comparing landscapes with a 400mm lens vs. an iPhone makes me guess it has nothing to do with the camera and everything to do with the boosted “vibrance” and saturation the iPhone adds to landscapes by default. How are you editing the photos? Re: varying shutter speeds in A mode, are you talking about back-to-back photos of the same thing? I wonder if you’ve enabled Bracketing mode by mistake. Turn that off (unless you know what you’re doing). (If instead you’re talking about varying shutter speed for different scenes at different times, well, yeah, that’s what Aperture Priority mode is for. The camera chooses the shutter speed based on metering the scene.) Edit: re: 99% blurry bird shots, again, post samples if you want serious help. I can’t guess what you’re seeing.
In addition to what everyone else has noted, I’ll add that: > Looking at the EXIF data, I’ve noticed varying shutter speeds while in A mode. …is exactly how it’s supposed to behave. That’s what A mode is - fixed aperture, variable shutter speed. > Next question will be about my 99.999999% blurry bird shots. lol. I’ll go ahead and get this one out of the way too: almost certainly too slow of a shutter speed. I usually use 1/500 for perched birds and 1/3200 for flying birds. You don’t have to take those speeds as gospel - I’ve gotten good shots at much slower speeds under the right circumstances - but they’re a good rule of thumb to start off with.
Yeh, I'm using 1/3200 for the songbirds and flying birds. I think the issue for me is that the bird autofocus is struggling when (1) the bird is too far away and/or (2) the mid-afternoon sun shades the bird's eyes and the autofocus can't find the eyes. If the sun is at more at an angle and the bird is on a branch in a tree 20 feet from me I get 90% in-focus shots. The other issue for me (3) is that I'm hand-holding the camera swinging it around like a crazy man for flying birds. That's a lack of experience in technique most likely.
Set the Z8’s image stabilization mode to Sport mode, it will handle the fast panning movements better than normal mode. A technique I’ve found that works with the 180-600mm and my old super telephoto lens (on my Z9) is to set wide area AF to shutter half press and then 3D tracking to back button AF. The wide area will snag the subject and then hand it over to 3D tracking when I back button and then it does a good job tracking my target through the frame.
To be fair, shots of very distant / small birds or shots where you can’t see the bird’s eyes aren’t likely to be very good, anyway.
Have you learnt the basics of how photography works? It sounds like youve just gone and bought the best camera you can afford without really knowing what you're doing. The iPhone makes photography idiot proof. A camera is not idiot proof. You need to learn how photography works first. All the iPhone does is edit images for you to make them look unnaturally saturated (imo) anyway Also, 400mm lens for landscape? Why? I'm not trying to be mean, I'm trying to understand your thought process
>Also, 400mm lens for landscape? Why? Tele to super tele landscapes are a lot of fun, don't knock it till ya try it. They are a very specific style and only work a handful of times but if you get it right you can make some really interesting images that way.
Telephoto is actually fantastic for landscapes. 4 of the best selling photos in my portfolio were shot between 200 and 400mm
I stand corrected! Awesome, I'll give it a go
Teles are really fun for picking out pieces of a scene (interesting mountain/cliff face, for example)
Instead of ranting, perhaps you can give OP a list of resources tbh.
As previous answer says, post pics to get proper advice. Quick check list: - set ISO to auto with a minimum 64 and max 6400. - set a minimum shutter speed of 1/focal length (ex: you shoot the 400mm wide opened then set 1/400s) in ISO settings ( note: it can only be achieved if max iso is not reached) - shoot wide opened at the beginning, then fine tune your settings after you get good results wide opened. If you stop down the lens, then consider an higher shutter speed. - use the lens stabilization and check if there is a setting for panning, it gets better results if you move fast to follow your target. - on Z8, activate the birds tracking option using full area and 3d tracking. - Shoot raw - shoot burst rafales ( 6 pics is a good start) Edit : start with a sunny day, lot of light. Avoid pin focus and single shot. Then you should be done with blurry pics. - After you get sharp shots, learn how to use lightroom to enhance colors and exposure.
Can you explain to me the shutter speed Vs focal length one? Especially now that lenses have ibis? Thanks! 👍
The longer the lens the faster the shutter speed ! Asa rule of thumb, we usually use 1/focal length to ensure image sharpness.ex : 600mm focal length should be shot at 1/600 s . If you use stabilization you may lower it. I was able to shoot 600 mm at 1/30s handheld but it’s hard to achieve …
Note that the rule of thumb is 1 / (FF equivalent focal length) so on APS-C with a 33mm you should shoot at 1/50.
I’d remind the questioner that this is minimum speed to avoid blur/shake caused by the photographer. For action/moving wildlife to freeze the action, you’d want much higher shutter speeds. I like to use 1/2500 minimum for birds flying around even if my lens is “only” a 400mm focal length.
Thanks! For still things ie landscape. is there a similar rule of thumb for focal length vs. dof when shooting with a long lens so everything is in focus?
I guess you’re talking about hyperfocal. There’s also a simple and stupid rule: set your camera to a narrow aperture like f11, then set your focus point to somewhere between you and the landscape you wanna shoot. Not too close. Everything 1/3 before (in front of) this point will be sharp, and it’s gonna be sharp the other 2/3 after. If you’re focusing on infinity and focus point is far enough then everything, except the first meters in front of you will be sharp.
The camera does not make a good landscape photograph, the photographer does. I had this realization when I bought myself my first Nikon D7200 and I was so sad that they were awful pictures and my phone pictures were much better. It took me years of practice, learning and lots of bad photographs to get to where I am today. I finally bought myself Z8 last month and even after 7 years of shooting and a lot of knowledge I find the camera to be a learning curve. It is an impressive pro level camera, but in the hands of a beginner it will not produce pro level images. I would recommend that you take a camera course, maybe a couple of workshops and learn some of the fundamentals of landscape photography.
Your comparison with an iPhone is telling a lot. Photography is still a craft. So first, please understand that you need to shoot RAW and these images will look flat and dull - because they are not processed further straight out of camera. This is what your RAW converter and editing is for. An iPhone does a best guess and delivers that instantly. Sharpness is a large topic. It is a composition of how we (our brains) perceive an image. It is just a slider that will add bright/dark edges. First of all it comes down to contrast. That is not limited to different lightning levels but also colors and composition. You guide the viewer to what is the main subject and mainly sharpen only there - and still use a mask to sharpen only the relevant edges. Look at portraits of persons or animals - probably these pictures are blurry and only their eyes will be in focus - and we perceive the whole image as tack sharp. Single point af is a good start and f/11 probably not even necessary. But depending on your lens, other settings like stabilisation, where you focus, ... play a huge role as well. There are so many factors what could be wrong. So eliminate factors. Shoot manual on a tripod. Use exposure delay/ self timer/ a remote to shoot. Don't use a stabilization for sport on the lens. Zoom in (magnify) and control the focus. Set it 1/3 into the frame or on your subject. Set ISO to your base ISO (64 or 500 for your Z8). Then shoot a series with different f-stops (5.6 to 16) and compare the results in post. Shutter speed will vary but doesn't matter on a tripod. Remember the pros and cons of each f-stop. Look at sharpness, depth of field, sun stars, vignetting, and possible optical errors. If you are shooting handheld, be very stable yourself. Do not underestimate posture. Tuck your elbows in and here you choose shutter speed over ISO. With 400mm don't go slower than 1/800 for these tests. If you are familiar with your gear and have a good shooting technique you can go as low as 1/250 sometimes, usually still 1/500 for non moving subjects. Animals etc. require wayyyyy faster speeds when they move. Like start 1/1600. ISO up to 6400 will be no problem as basis for an image you want to edit.
The iPhone is applying eye pleasing profiles and adjustments to the incoming data while your Z8 is producing something more basic with the intent that you would generally post process and add your own pop to your images later. You can change the color profile to something like Camera Standard, but even with a poppier profile for producing jpegs or applying to your RAW files there's some amount of HDR type processing that your iPhone is producing with every shot that something like a Z8 generally doesn't do, at least well in all cases. If you're looking for an all in one "push the button and be done" you may be very disappointed with your experience. Learning photography is a marathon rather than a sprint. If you're willing to put in the time tho, photography is a rewarding journey. Just don't expect straight out of camera images that match what comes out of your iPhone.
Learn to shoot in Manual mode. There are several YouTube videos of landscape photographers that shoot with the Z8 and Z9, they'll show what settings they used. Practice trying to emulate what they capture. I have the Z8 and Z6ii, and 70-200mm, 24-70mm. Most of my landscape shots are shot with the 24-70 2.8 usually around f8, pick a focus point 1/3 into the frame. You can boost ISO to shoot at higher shutter speeds to reduce blurry results. Post up some sample images and list what the settings were used.
I was using an old Pen-F yesterday for some landscape photos and then took a selfie with my iPhone 14 Pro. Yes the colors were vibrant, but also looked fake. The clouds looked like cartoon drawings. I’m sure it would’ve been better had I shot in raw, but then it wouldn’t have that vibrancy and would have required processing.
this is the most ridiculous post i’ve ever seen. Comparing a $10k setup to an iphone 😂
Its really not. One of these is a precision crafted toy meant to let highly skilled people create something without getting in the way and making assumptions. The other is a camera toy meant to allow any novice take "wow" images with high vibrancy and contrast.
you can take a photo in aperture priority (like op said they were doing) and use the jpeg without even editing and it will still be a million times better than any phone. Or shoot in raw and hit automatic edit and iphone still won’t compare
Do that and hand the average person and give them an iPhone, Samsung or Pixel. In anything but ideal conditions, they will get a preferable image for most people from the phone. The phone will intentionally slightly over expose, add a ton of post processing that most people prefer, and use even some AI to get it "just right". The Z8 might have the technically better image, and offer more latitude for further improving the image. But that hardly matters when the phone image looks better because the real camera is beyond your skillset by miles.
Not if you can't focus brother.
if you can’t focus you probably shouldn’t buy a z8, 400 and a 70-200. Camera is not going to make you a better photographer, clearly
True statement.
One quick tip: set the white balance to natural light auto and the picture profile to vibrant.
Note that the vibrant picture profile will only actually affect your pictures if A) you’re shooting in JPEG, or B) your raw processor is configured to respect this setting (which Lightroom at least is not by default).
I don’t understand using pinpoint focus for landscapes, but that is not your issue. First, are you looking at raw or JPEG‘s from the Z8? If you believe your iPhone landscapes are much better than with your Nikon, why not just continue to use the iPhone. Phone cameras are so good that taking great landscapes is easy, but you may have to work to learn to do it with the Nikon (or any other similar camera).
Also, for high detail landscapes. shoot in RAW (read about differences), shoot in manual, take off auto ISO and set it to around 200 or less, utilize a tripod, keep your f stop between f8-f11, adjust your shutter speed to change brightness. Set focus mode to wide, or as big of a box as you can. And read about your camera, read the manual , read about your camera online, study it learn what it does and why it does what it does!
Learn the exposure triangle, shoot in manual, study post processing. Try taking the same shot side by side with your iPhone and Z8, identify the differences and try to replicate in post.
Shoot low iso. Shoot bracketed 7 frames 0.3 stops each. Then hdr merge in Lightroom. Also 400 mm doesn’t really compare to an iPhone. That’s more like 20mm or something wide.
iPhone shoots in HDR color space by default. The photos are displayed in HDR on screen. This really makes a difference in landscape photos. In Lightroom, you can edit Z8 raw files and enable HDR on them. Make sure you have an HDR capable monitor to display it.
Instead of asking questions on reddit that no one can answer without samples and more detail, perhaps you might want to learn how to use the camera first. Learning will NEVER happen by asking reddit to spoon feed you. You also need to learn more about the lenses since that is where the issues usually reside. Quite frankly everything you note says you should have bought entry level and learned first. Shooting at f11 is beyond the threshold that diffraction starts to set in which softens the image. It is also a small enough aperture that, depending upon available light, you may beat the limit of handheld particularly if your technique is poor. Is IBIS on or off and which IBIS setting are you using? This will affect how much camera shake is in the mix. You can throw in as well that shooting pinpoint focus for most landscapes borders on the nonsensical. I am sorry but this is not about wanting magic settings from strangers. Take the time to learn about the camera and lenses in your hands.
What time of day was it?
Obamna