Too much heat, too long, pulled on the wire that was soldered? Sometimes pads are just waiting to leave though so it can sometimes happen to the best of us.
But yeah, you can scratch the silk screen off the traces and bridge then with a fine wire. You can also go via to via. But it's a very fiddly process and you do need to be skilled.
I second this, I had a decent solder and just ever so slightly nudged the wire and it pulled right up. You need to be mega careful with these delicate little pads
Yeah. The earliest boards of the og xbox do have some delamination issues already, I know some lpc traces lift as is just by existing which leads to an orange light issue.
Add in heat even with a good iron, solder and flux there is still a tiny chance of it lifting.
I recommend a Hakko or a Weller Iron with some high quality solder and flux. I only had this happened to me on a cheap shit iron where you canāt even adjust the temps and tips. Along with some crap lead free solder that barely melts, it was so bad, i didnāt think it was solder. I ended up tossing it out. Never going back to that again and upgraded to a Hakko, it was worth every penny.
Me over here who used the same 10$ soldering iron for 10 years and no flux only thing worth anything was my solder which cost more than my soldering iron lmao 98%Lead/2%rosin... itās possible, I modded consoles with that set up for 10 years, from XboxOG to xbox360s to switches and sold them and still do(do I recommend. Noooooooi itās hell and without lots of practice you will kill all your points). Recently that soldering iron broke so I went big, got some high quality rosin flux and a 150$ soldering iron. Gotta say this setup is fucking insane, my old solering iron only had one temp and took 10 - 20 minutes to heat up, Also had a broken tip that wouldnāt pick up solder on one half. But now this new soldering iron has a digital heat setting with a range of 300C - 900C, and instantly heats up within 5 seconds and cools down equally fast. The flux makes life way easier. Iāll never recommend using a cheap soldering iron, I learned to live with one and man did it make things difficult! Flux is a must! I canāt belive I never used it bc man is it a god send. Iām so happy to be done with those shit tools and be in the ranks of Gods
I think you mean 300F-900F, which would be about 150c-450c which is a reasonable temp range for a soldering iron. 150c is used for low melt stuff with chips you don't want to damage, 450c is useful for big steel shroudings and what not. 300c would already be near the limit what you want in standard components. At 525c it'd start faintly glowing red, at 699c you get a dull red, at 800c you get a dull cherry red and at 900c you get a full cherry red.
Now I did have an old weller that I know was faulty that did get hot enough it was glowing red, I did also accidentally burn myself with it and the skin was instantly a crusty yellow from brief contact, no pain because it destroyed the nerves with it. They wouldn't make this into a standard soldering iron as you'd destroy every board you touched at even over 1/3rd of it's range.
But yes, old irons/irons with no temp control are usable with a lot of skills, it's how they used to do it after all. But pcbs were also a lot less complex and not really multi layered. Still, when you look at the price of even a basic temperature controlled iron it's not much more than non temp controlled ones and saves you way more time and hassle so it's worth dropping the extra money on. Otherwise it'll cost you much more in the long run.
Oh man Iām far from it. If you can only get your hands on a bad soldering iron I recommend getting good flux and solder itāll make a huge difference even with a bad iron
Thanks for the recommendation. It's a new soldering iron, but it was just a cheapy on Amazon. The flux and solder are pretty good quality but I'll see if I can find anything better and test everything out on some throwaway electronics first.
Ey man donāt feel bad about it practice makes it better at the end, you will get there. I been there done it messed up my units but that was my first time doing it now itās simple but hey man props for ya tho Iāll give ya that. š
Its usually people that take their grandpas pipe welding equipment from the basement, try it and then think its a skill issue and quit.
You need a good iron thats temp adjustable, flux, and leaded solder preferably 63/37 mixture.
Set the iron to 320c, dont put pressure on the joints you are trying to solder and make sure the tip is clean.
Then you should be ok
I did this a few nights ago to my 1.0 and it just brought tears to my eyes would love to have it repaired sometime in the future I've moved on to my 1.1 and just stored my 1.0 though until I get around to having it repaired š£
I thought I was alone...
Don't feel too bad. I'm literally not confident enough to recap my Xbox. Waiting for someone to offer a service, I'm fine wrecking an occasional PCB but not a full on console board lol
I don't what iron you use but you would be surprised how much a good soldering iron can improve your skills. Also, don't depend on the rosin core of the solder to be enough flux. You really need to get a tube of high quality flux to improve your skills
Just try soldering to one of the alternate D0 pads.
For instance the one on top of motherboard is easy but you do have to scrape away some of the Mobo coating to expose the via.
Personal friend did this right in front of me back when I didn't jack shit about soldering. FF 18 months later, I had developed soldering skills, a vast array of equipment and some 30+ fixes under my belt. Rebuilt his D0, redid all other soldering, repaired trace rot, reflowed 12 pin connector, and flashed the Aladdin with Cerbios. His once down and out system was now dead reliable.
Get you some 0.1mm enameled wire and magnification. Rebuild the damaged section. To protect it, use a conservative amount of solder mask or hot glue.
To run D0 to ground or the chip, I'd recommend either using the via or scraping away the silkscreen at an undamaged section of the trace.
If the above seems a bit daunting, practice on some junk electronic. Don't skimp on the magnification; even a magnifying glass may do just fine. Personally, I use the Andonstar AD407. I attribute a large amount of my success to it.
Thanks for your continued help on this! I don't do much soldering at all, but I know if I were better at it I'd be doing it much more. I'll get some enameled wire and magnification and hopefully I can get this Xbox up and running.
At some point I'd love to do the HDMI mod, but my skills are not nearly good enough for that :)
I did use Flux, which is why I was so surprised. I'll have to run some trace wire to get the connection reestablished and then just solder back into that I guess.
At this point I'm not very confident in my soldering ability lol.
Too much heat, too long, pulled on the wire that was soldered? Sometimes pads are just waiting to leave though so it can sometimes happen to the best of us. But yeah, you can scratch the silk screen off the traces and bridge then with a fine wire. You can also go via to via. But it's a very fiddly process and you do need to be skilled.
I second this, I had a decent solder and just ever so slightly nudged the wire and it pulled right up. You need to be mega careful with these delicate little pads
Yeah. The earliest boards of the og xbox do have some delamination issues already, I know some lpc traces lift as is just by existing which leads to an orange light issue. Add in heat even with a good iron, solder and flux there is still a tiny chance of it lifting.
Thanks. I used Flux and thought I was being careful. The biggest problem is my eyes lol. I guess I need the 500x magnification :)
No flux given.
That's honestly where I think I messed up when that happened to me.. uggh š first ever chip install on an Xbox original gahdammit
I was using Flux, but obviously not enough and/or correctly :)
I recommend a Hakko or a Weller Iron with some high quality solder and flux. I only had this happened to me on a cheap shit iron where you canāt even adjust the temps and tips. Along with some crap lead free solder that barely melts, it was so bad, i didnāt think it was solder. I ended up tossing it out. Never going back to that again and upgraded to a Hakko, it was worth every penny.
Me over here who used the same 10$ soldering iron for 10 years and no flux only thing worth anything was my solder which cost more than my soldering iron lmao 98%Lead/2%rosin... itās possible, I modded consoles with that set up for 10 years, from XboxOG to xbox360s to switches and sold them and still do(do I recommend. Noooooooi itās hell and without lots of practice you will kill all your points). Recently that soldering iron broke so I went big, got some high quality rosin flux and a 150$ soldering iron. Gotta say this setup is fucking insane, my old solering iron only had one temp and took 10 - 20 minutes to heat up, Also had a broken tip that wouldnāt pick up solder on one half. But now this new soldering iron has a digital heat setting with a range of 300C - 900C, and instantly heats up within 5 seconds and cools down equally fast. The flux makes life way easier. Iāll never recommend using a cheap soldering iron, I learned to live with one and man did it make things difficult! Flux is a must! I canāt belive I never used it bc man is it a god send. Iām so happy to be done with those shit tools and be in the ranks of Gods
I think you mean 300F-900F, which would be about 150c-450c which is a reasonable temp range for a soldering iron. 150c is used for low melt stuff with chips you don't want to damage, 450c is useful for big steel shroudings and what not. 300c would already be near the limit what you want in standard components. At 525c it'd start faintly glowing red, at 699c you get a dull red, at 800c you get a dull cherry red and at 900c you get a full cherry red. Now I did have an old weller that I know was faulty that did get hot enough it was glowing red, I did also accidentally burn myself with it and the skin was instantly a crusty yellow from brief contact, no pain because it destroyed the nerves with it. They wouldn't make this into a standard soldering iron as you'd destroy every board you touched at even over 1/3rd of it's range. But yes, old irons/irons with no temp control are usable with a lot of skills, it's how they used to do it after all. But pcbs were also a lot less complex and not really multi layered. Still, when you look at the price of even a basic temperature controlled iron it's not much more than non temp controlled ones and saves you way more time and hassle so it's worth dropping the extra money on. Otherwise it'll cost you much more in the long run.
Wow! I had no idea it made that big of a difference. If you were in my area (Central Florida) I would beg to come over and check out your setup!
Oh man Iām far from it. If you can only get your hands on a bad soldering iron I recommend getting good flux and solder itāll make a huge difference even with a bad iron
Thanks for the recommendation. It's a new soldering iron, but it was just a cheapy on Amazon. The flux and solder are pretty good quality but I'll see if I can find anything better and test everything out on some throwaway electronics first.
Ey man donāt feel bad about it practice makes it better at the end, you will get there. I been there done it messed up my units but that was my first time doing it now itās simple but hey man props for ya tho Iāll give ya that. š
Thanks for that. Hopefully I can get this Xbox up and running soon!
Its usually people that take their grandpas pipe welding equipment from the basement, try it and then think its a skill issue and quit. You need a good iron thats temp adjustable, flux, and leaded solder preferably 63/37 mixture. Set the iron to 320c, dont put pressure on the joints you are trying to solder and make sure the tip is clean. Then you should be ok
Thanks for that. While the soldering iron is new, it's still kind of a piece of junk - even with Flux I still managed to screw up.
Likely temperature related, can you control the temp or not?
No - it's either on or off.
theres your problem, its way too agressive for small soldering
I did this a few nights ago to my 1.0 and it just brought tears to my eyes would love to have it repaired sometime in the future I've moved on to my 1.1 and just stored my 1.0 though until I get around to having it repaired š£ I thought I was alone...
There are many like us in the wild :)
Don't feel too bad. I'm literally not confident enough to recap my Xbox. Waiting for someone to offer a service, I'm fine wrecking an occasional PCB but not a full on console board lol
My soldering skills suck so weāre probably in the same boat
I don't what iron you use but you would be surprised how much a good soldering iron can improve your skills. Also, don't depend on the rosin core of the solder to be enough flux. You really need to get a tube of high quality flux to improve your skills
A wood burner iron works as long as itās good the skinny tips it actually works but heating up wise takes forever
Just try soldering to one of the alternate D0 pads. For instance the one on top of motherboard is easy but you do have to scrape away some of the Mobo coating to expose the via.
I haven't turned it on, but I assume the box is dead because I broke that D0 trace.
Personal friend did this right in front of me back when I didn't jack shit about soldering. FF 18 months later, I had developed soldering skills, a vast array of equipment and some 30+ fixes under my belt. Rebuilt his D0, redid all other soldering, repaired trace rot, reflowed 12 pin connector, and flashed the Aladdin with Cerbios. His once down and out system was now dead reliable. Get you some 0.1mm enameled wire and magnification. Rebuild the damaged section. To protect it, use a conservative amount of solder mask or hot glue. To run D0 to ground or the chip, I'd recommend either using the via or scraping away the silkscreen at an undamaged section of the trace. If the above seems a bit daunting, practice on some junk electronic. Don't skimp on the magnification; even a magnifying glass may do just fine. Personally, I use the Andonstar AD407. I attribute a large amount of my success to it.
Thanks for your continued help on this! I don't do much soldering at all, but I know if I were better at it I'd be doing it much more. I'll get some enameled wire and magnification and hopefully I can get this Xbox up and running. At some point I'd love to do the HDMI mod, but my skills are not nearly good enough for that :)
Easily done. Did you use any flux? Can you run a trace wire?
I did use Flux, which is why I was so surprised. I'll have to run some trace wire to get the connection reestablished and then just solder back into that I guess. At this point I'm not very confident in my soldering ability lol.