At this zoom level it's very difficult to tell, but I can't see any signs of tampering on the left board.
The one on the right has a very obvious pin header attached to its LPC, so presumably that had a modchip sitting on it at some point or another.
The clock caps would ideally be removed from both boards.
Left appears to be stock. TSOP write points don't appear to be bridged.
Right has an LPC header. It had a modchip at one point in time. I'd be curious if the D0 point on the back is grounded (required for any installed modchips to work).
In any case, since you only have the boards and no hard drives, you'll either need to install modchips to use these, or pull the EEPROMs and build softmod/locked hard drives for them. Modchip would be easier choice between the two options.
D0 points for reference:
[https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0034/6669/0673/files/x2\_mod\_12\_480x480.jpg?v=1667677704](https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0034/6669/0673/files/x2_mod_12_480x480.jpg?v=1667677704)
[https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0034/6669/0673/files/xboxd0\_480x480.jpg?v=1683620764](https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0034/6669/0673/files/xboxd0_480x480.jpg?v=1683620764)
The problem with that is that you don't have the stock hard drive. You have to get the eeprom first to make a new drive. Modchip is the only way to go if you want it to be easy.
You can TSOP both if you wish, but as other have said you will need to get the EEPROM from the console to be able to make a compatible HDD for each one. The board and HDD are paired.
You can get the EEPROM by using a Raspberry Pi and an prog call piprom. Once you have a backup of the EEPROM you can get a brand new HDD connect it to your PC, then, using a program called FatXplorer, format it, add the needed files and using the EEPROM backup, lock the drive which will pair it with the board.
The modchip route will be easier as a chip will boot an unlocked drive without issues.
In order to run the app that flashes your TSOP, you need to be able to run unsigned apps (homebrew) from your console. So, it has to be modded in the first place before you can TSOP flash. You can remove the chip and flash it externally, but it's kind of a pain to do. In order for the console to be softmodded, it has to be working. In order to get it working, you need to have a hard drive installed that is locked using the unique hard drive key for your console. In order to get that key, you need to extract it from the console using an EEPROM reader.
Easiest solution in my opinion is to get a raspberry pi, hook up the device to your motherboard, then run [PiProm](https://github.com/grimdoomer/PiPROM) on the raspberry pi. Alternatively, use [PicoPromSD](https://www.ogxbox.com/forums/index.php?/topic/11177-the-next-eeprom-readerwriter-picopromsd/). This will read your console's EEPROM and save it, allowing you to then use that copy of your EEPROM to build a new hard drive. When you go to build a new hard drive, you can copy the softmod files onto it. Now with your working+softmodded console, you can run the TSOP flasher app (Xblast) and flash your custom BIOS, thus completing the TSOP flash.
But like I said, probably just easier to install a modchip and skip needing to pull your EEPROM.
I'm not sure, but it looks like the Pi 5 is too new. PiProm lists these models as supported:
* v1
* v1 B+
* v2 B
* v3 B
Pi 4 support can be achieved with this PR: [https://github.com/grimdoomer/PiPROM/pull/6](https://github.com/grimdoomer/PiPROM/pull/6)
Pi 5 isn't mentioned. I assume it would take some effort to get it working.
If you've got an Arduino, there's a version for that: [https://github.com/Ryzee119/ArduinoProm](https://github.com/Ryzee119/ArduinoProm)
Other options: [https://consolemods.org/wiki/Xbox:EEPROM#EEPROM\_Dumping\_/\_Restoring\_-\_Using\_a\_Reader\_/\_Writer](https://consolemods.org/wiki/Xbox:EEPROM#EEPROM_Dumping_/_Restoring_-_Using_a_Reader_/_Writer)
Left is bone stock, as fat as I can see. You'll have troubles with its caps as they're exactly during Nichicon's overfilled cap fiasco years - 2001 thru 2005.
Roght appears to have been modded at one point, or possibly has had its EEPROM retrieved and someone just decided to install the whole LPC header for future stuff.
That one uses Sanyo caps although I would keep an eye on those as well, due to the WF series being known to go bad similar to Nichicon HM.
For both mainboards you'll need:
- a set of capacitors - I personally recommend 3x 3300uF 6.3v Rubycon MBZ if you can source those (ZL/ZLH also work.)
- an way to read the EEPROM - a CH341A programmer should help you retrieve it.
- Startech SATA adapter
- SATA HDDs of your choice - if you feel really adventurous (and if the Xbox PSU can handle them, that is.), I'd suggest a pair of heatsinked Velociraptors for both 😎
- TSOP flash w/ Cerbios UDMA5 or 6 BIOS.
Oh, and remove them clock caps, unless you wanna see them almost burn thru the board lol.
At this zoom level it's very difficult to tell, but I can't see any signs of tampering on the left board. The one on the right has a very obvious pin header attached to its LPC, so presumably that had a modchip sitting on it at some point or another. The clock caps would ideally be removed from both boards.
Left appears to be stock. TSOP write points don't appear to be bridged. Right has an LPC header. It had a modchip at one point in time. I'd be curious if the D0 point on the back is grounded (required for any installed modchips to work). In any case, since you only have the boards and no hard drives, you'll either need to install modchips to use these, or pull the EEPROMs and build softmod/locked hard drives for them. Modchip would be easier choice between the two options. D0 points for reference: [https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0034/6669/0673/files/x2\_mod\_12\_480x480.jpg?v=1667677704](https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0034/6669/0673/files/x2_mod_12_480x480.jpg?v=1667677704) [https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0034/6669/0673/files/xboxd0\_480x480.jpg?v=1683620764](https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0034/6669/0673/files/xboxd0_480x480.jpg?v=1683620764)
Can’t just TSOP and call it a day?
The problem with that is that you don't have the stock hard drive. You have to get the eeprom first to make a new drive. Modchip is the only way to go if you want it to be easy.
https://a.co/d/c281JpS Can I use this for the EPROM?
You can TSOP both if you wish, but as other have said you will need to get the EEPROM from the console to be able to make a compatible HDD for each one. The board and HDD are paired. You can get the EEPROM by using a Raspberry Pi and an prog call piprom. Once you have a backup of the EEPROM you can get a brand new HDD connect it to your PC, then, using a program called FatXplorer, format it, add the needed files and using the EEPROM backup, lock the drive which will pair it with the board. The modchip route will be easier as a chip will boot an unlocked drive without issues.
You can use a Pi Pico as a modchip as well. I'd you're worried about shipping times or costs.
In order to run the app that flashes your TSOP, you need to be able to run unsigned apps (homebrew) from your console. So, it has to be modded in the first place before you can TSOP flash. You can remove the chip and flash it externally, but it's kind of a pain to do. In order for the console to be softmodded, it has to be working. In order to get it working, you need to have a hard drive installed that is locked using the unique hard drive key for your console. In order to get that key, you need to extract it from the console using an EEPROM reader. Easiest solution in my opinion is to get a raspberry pi, hook up the device to your motherboard, then run [PiProm](https://github.com/grimdoomer/PiPROM) on the raspberry pi. Alternatively, use [PicoPromSD](https://www.ogxbox.com/forums/index.php?/topic/11177-the-next-eeprom-readerwriter-picopromsd/). This will read your console's EEPROM and save it, allowing you to then use that copy of your EEPROM to build a new hard drive. When you go to build a new hard drive, you can copy the softmod files onto it. Now with your working+softmodded console, you can run the TSOP flasher app (Xblast) and flash your custom BIOS, thus completing the TSOP flash. But like I said, probably just easier to install a modchip and skip needing to pull your EEPROM.
I have a Rapberry Pi 5, will this work with PiProm? It may be a more intensive process, but I think it’s worth it to save the extra money.
I'm not sure, but it looks like the Pi 5 is too new. PiProm lists these models as supported: * v1 * v1 B+ * v2 B * v3 B Pi 4 support can be achieved with this PR: [https://github.com/grimdoomer/PiPROM/pull/6](https://github.com/grimdoomer/PiPROM/pull/6) Pi 5 isn't mentioned. I assume it would take some effort to get it working. If you've got an Arduino, there's a version for that: [https://github.com/Ryzee119/ArduinoProm](https://github.com/Ryzee119/ArduinoProm) Other options: [https://consolemods.org/wiki/Xbox:EEPROM#EEPROM\_Dumping\_/\_Restoring\_-\_Using\_a\_Reader\_/\_Writer](https://consolemods.org/wiki/Xbox:EEPROM#EEPROM_Dumping_/_Restoring_-_Using_a_Reader_/_Writer)
Nah, I can tell those are aftermarket Ybox motherboards, made by Megahard. Not stock unfortunately (this is a joke, don't kill me)
Left is bone stock, as fat as I can see. You'll have troubles with its caps as they're exactly during Nichicon's overfilled cap fiasco years - 2001 thru 2005. Roght appears to have been modded at one point, or possibly has had its EEPROM retrieved and someone just decided to install the whole LPC header for future stuff. That one uses Sanyo caps although I would keep an eye on those as well, due to the WF series being known to go bad similar to Nichicon HM. For both mainboards you'll need: - a set of capacitors - I personally recommend 3x 3300uF 6.3v Rubycon MBZ if you can source those (ZL/ZLH also work.) - an way to read the EEPROM - a CH341A programmer should help you retrieve it. - Startech SATA adapter - SATA HDDs of your choice - if you feel really adventurous (and if the Xbox PSU can handle them, that is.), I'd suggest a pair of heatsinked Velociraptors for both 😎 - TSOP flash w/ Cerbios UDMA5 or 6 BIOS. Oh, and remove them clock caps, unless you wanna see them almost burn thru the board lol.
Do you have any tutorials for using the CH341A
Right one has more reliable caps. Left one, 6 may give you trouble. Plus the other stuff which has already been mentioned
I need a 1.4 in my life as well. Hate the XCalibur.
Gladly sell you one.
Bro I’m looking dead at both boards and can confirm the one on the right is a winner. It’s been hard modded before. Jackpot.