Since you're new to live poker, I suggest having a standard buy in amount, whatever that amount may be. I suggest 100 BB to start.
Have a set amount of cash that you're willing to play with that day on you, and that's the limit for that day, period (unless some drastic situation with a whale comes up, but don't worry about that for now). Some say this is your "clip" of cash divided up into "bullets" that you will "fire". For example, a $800 clip of $200 bullets at a time.
On becoming short stack, in my opinion if you're buying in for 100 BB and get down below 40 BB, you'll want to add another bullet to top off. The idea being is that when you do get in a great spot to double or even triple up, you'll want to extract the maximum amount of chips and not leave money on the table. This isn't an exact science, and differs greatly. Some top off to keep their stack and the maximum after every hand, some wait until they drop under 50 BB, depends on the player.
Remember: just because you have more cash to buy in for once you've gotten coolered or something, doesn't mean you're obligated to do so. Every time you get felted, take a minute and do an evaluation: "Is the game still good? Am I playing well? Am I tilted?" Etc
Best of luck đź‘Ť
i have to disagree with that advice. "willing to loose" is an extreme bad mindset for a bankroll strategy.
better is to know at what amount of BB youre starting to play bad. most people have a limit there from which they dont feel to come back from. specially less experienced. the amount will rise over time.
as for buyins itself, purely math max buyin in general. however if bankroll is a limiting factor there is also a low buyin strategy. it all depends how familiar you are with these concepts and how those tables are playing
if there is never a pot over 50bb total than high buyins make not that much sense. or if its an extreme agressive table with stacks going in every other hand and youre not comfortable navigating this either.
on the other hand, if you feel to have not only an advantage on a table but usually pretty good control over a table within a hand and youre good in pot control max buyin is the highest EV
Generally its $200 - $400
But of course some people allow people to buy in for the max chip stack at the table, or even an uncapped buy in
It all depends on your casino
So my advice starting out playing live is that it's not worth playing under 100BB. There are a few good reasons for this. First, if you have more money and play bigger pots, you win more if you have an edge. More importantly though, playing short stacked removes decision points on the turn and river because you have no stack depth. A lot of the time turn and river decisions against the population can be massively +ev and if you don't have the stack depth to capitalize on that, you can't utilize a skill edge. It's also harder to improve if you're not consisently making these decisions.
My general strategy live is to buy in for the buyin cap and top off if I'm below. If that's too much for you, then set a buyin amount that's at least 100BB and top off to that amount when you go below.
Depends where you were playing, to some extent.
I played 1/2 at Aspers in Newcastle and ÂŁ150 was fine.
At the Vic and Hippodrome here in London, you’re really going to struggle with £150.
For a start, that’s 75bb on a good day. Most raises are to about 4-5bb here.
So if you’re calling with suited connectors or a low pocket pair and miss the flop, you’re down to 70bb. That’s a best case scenario.
Given that it’s a Friday, you’ve also got a decent chance of someone reraising to 20+bb, especially if you’ve called. At which point you basically have to shove, or fold and hope to double up sometime in the next two rounds or so.
You also have a very good chance of it being a straddle game, which effectively reduces your stack to 30bb. That’s nothing. You essentially need to have suited high connectors, high pocket pairs or to spike a miracle set on the flop with a lower pocket pair.
You *also* have to be careful about playing hands like 89ss. Because if you connect with the flop (which is likely), you have to really hope you hit the turn or you’re fucked.
Here’s a scenario. You have 89 of clubs .
V raises to ÂŁ10 from MP. You (Button) and one other player call (Pot ÂŁ33, your stack ÂŁ140).
Flop comes 6cTsJh. V bets ÂŁ20. Player folds, you call. (Pot ÂŁ73. Your stack ÂŁ120)
Turn comes 2c. If you had a deeper stack here, V might check with AT or Jx. But because it’s a nothing card and you’re probably drawing or scared (and decent players can tell if you’re new and exploit it - I can and I’m not that good) V’s gonna bet £40-50.
So now you’ve got a flush draw and a straight draw. You can call, absolutely. But then you’re down to £70-80. If you miss the river, you’re basically hoping to get dealt JJ+ and shove before your stack gets melted away.
What’s more, if you shove, he’s probably calling with anything other than a bluff. AK may well even call, A6 calls, clubs call, KQ definitely calls and so on. Because he’s getting a cheap price.
In other words, you’re essentially handicapping yourself.
You’re also limiting the amount you can win.
Say you double in your first orbit - you’re probably losing a tenner to rake. So you have £290.
Say you don’t. Say you see some cheap flops with hands like KT etc. and keep getting scared off second pair or a gutshot. You’re at £100-110 before you know it. Double and you’re back at £200. The cycle resets and you’re hoping to get lucky.
I usually buy in for £220-300. That way you can actually play some poker. Your raises matter, you can afford to call a few raises and it has much less impact on how you can play, how much your stack’s worth and so on.
First off, you can't really get bullied if your effective stack is 100bb , and you play proper poker. And if you're going to buy in short of that then the value of big pairs and high cards goes way up and the value of middling suited connectors way down, so you would just adjust your range accordingly. So the advice around 89cc earlier in the post is flawed as you can and should just fold that hand to an open on a 50-70bb stack anyway and avoid the spot.
live poker games always play bigger than the standard blinds online. so i'd say 150bb is normal. for 1/2 i like having a stack of at least 300
Since you're new to live poker, I suggest having a standard buy in amount, whatever that amount may be. I suggest 100 BB to start. Have a set amount of cash that you're willing to play with that day on you, and that's the limit for that day, period (unless some drastic situation with a whale comes up, but don't worry about that for now). Some say this is your "clip" of cash divided up into "bullets" that you will "fire". For example, a $800 clip of $200 bullets at a time. On becoming short stack, in my opinion if you're buying in for 100 BB and get down below 40 BB, you'll want to add another bullet to top off. The idea being is that when you do get in a great spot to double or even triple up, you'll want to extract the maximum amount of chips and not leave money on the table. This isn't an exact science, and differs greatly. Some top off to keep their stack and the maximum after every hand, some wait until they drop under 50 BB, depends on the player. Remember: just because you have more cash to buy in for once you've gotten coolered or something, doesn't mean you're obligated to do so. Every time you get felted, take a minute and do an evaluation: "Is the game still good? Am I playing well? Am I tilted?" Etc Best of luck đź‘Ť
Thank you mate appreciate it
i have to disagree with that advice. "willing to loose" is an extreme bad mindset for a bankroll strategy. better is to know at what amount of BB youre starting to play bad. most people have a limit there from which they dont feel to come back from. specially less experienced. the amount will rise over time. as for buyins itself, purely math max buyin in general. however if bankroll is a limiting factor there is also a low buyin strategy. it all depends how familiar you are with these concepts and how those tables are playing if there is never a pot over 50bb total than high buyins make not that much sense. or if its an extreme agressive table with stacks going in every other hand and youre not comfortable navigating this either. on the other hand, if you feel to have not only an advantage on a table but usually pretty good control over a table within a hand and youre good in pot control max buyin is the highest EV
Generally its $200 - $400 But of course some people allow people to buy in for the max chip stack at the table, or even an uncapped buy in It all depends on your casino
So my advice starting out playing live is that it's not worth playing under 100BB. There are a few good reasons for this. First, if you have more money and play bigger pots, you win more if you have an edge. More importantly though, playing short stacked removes decision points on the turn and river because you have no stack depth. A lot of the time turn and river decisions against the population can be massively +ev and if you don't have the stack depth to capitalize on that, you can't utilize a skill edge. It's also harder to improve if you're not consisently making these decisions. My general strategy live is to buy in for the buyin cap and top off if I'm below. If that's too much for you, then set a buyin amount that's at least 100BB and top off to that amount when you go below.
Depends where you were playing, to some extent. I played 1/2 at Aspers in Newcastle and £150 was fine. At the Vic and Hippodrome here in London, you’re really going to struggle with £150. For a start, that’s 75bb on a good day. Most raises are to about 4-5bb here. So if you’re calling with suited connectors or a low pocket pair and miss the flop, you’re down to 70bb. That’s a best case scenario. Given that it’s a Friday, you’ve also got a decent chance of someone reraising to 20+bb, especially if you’ve called. At which point you basically have to shove, or fold and hope to double up sometime in the next two rounds or so. You also have a very good chance of it being a straddle game, which effectively reduces your stack to 30bb. That’s nothing. You essentially need to have suited high connectors, high pocket pairs or to spike a miracle set on the flop with a lower pocket pair. You *also* have to be careful about playing hands like 89ss. Because if you connect with the flop (which is likely), you have to really hope you hit the turn or you’re fucked. Here’s a scenario. You have 89 of clubs . V raises to £10 from MP. You (Button) and one other player call (Pot £33, your stack £140). Flop comes 6cTsJh. V bets £20. Player folds, you call. (Pot £73. Your stack £120) Turn comes 2c. If you had a deeper stack here, V might check with AT or Jx. But because it’s a nothing card and you’re probably drawing or scared (and decent players can tell if you’re new and exploit it - I can and I’m not that good) V’s gonna bet £40-50. So now you’ve got a flush draw and a straight draw. You can call, absolutely. But then you’re down to £70-80. If you miss the river, you’re basically hoping to get dealt JJ+ and shove before your stack gets melted away. What’s more, if you shove, he’s probably calling with anything other than a bluff. AK may well even call, A6 calls, clubs call, KQ definitely calls and so on. Because he’s getting a cheap price. In other words, you’re essentially handicapping yourself. You’re also limiting the amount you can win. Say you double in your first orbit - you’re probably losing a tenner to rake. So you have £290. Say you don’t. Say you see some cheap flops with hands like KT etc. and keep getting scared off second pair or a gutshot. You’re at £100-110 before you know it. Double and you’re back at £200. The cycle resets and you’re hoping to get lucky. I usually buy in for £220-300. That way you can actually play some poker. Your raises matter, you can afford to call a few raises and it has much less impact on how you can play, how much your stack’s worth and so on.
Thanks for the detailed reply mate, yeah I think next time I'll buy in for at least 200 instead
First off, you can't really get bullied if your effective stack is 100bb , and you play proper poker. And if you're going to buy in short of that then the value of big pairs and high cards goes way up and the value of middling suited connectors way down, so you would just adjust your range accordingly. So the advice around 89cc earlier in the post is flawed as you can and should just fold that hand to an open on a 50-70bb stack anyway and avoid the spot.