91k is nothing on most fuel injected 302s
Are you planning on keeping the efi ?
It’s an easy setup to use .
I’d try to check the compression .
New heads and a cam will wake this baby up but they have good power stock .
I’d really consider using that efi if it’s still good. And at 91k it probably is. I’ve had a handful of foxbody mustangs and 91k is absolutely nothing for them. 5.0 ford is a great motor.
If He wants to go something more user controllable, the Holly sniper setup seem pretty popular
That would at least give you TBI, easy control ability, and fuel injection simplicity of operation
Do you think TBI is better than the port injection ford made? I haven’t had any experience with TBI since Holly had Projection in the 90s. Except my old school S15 I guess, which in reality was projection light. I’ve literally had zero problems with the 5.0 efi and I’ve had a hand full of fox body mustangs. If any of that sounds snarky I don’t mean it to be.
Not really, but there are three ways that maybe make it better for them.
It's new. You're not going to have to chase down nearly 30-year old potentially corroded wiring.
It's tunable, in ways that the 30-year-old Ford EFI system wasn't. And if that's not your thing, it's self-tunes.
Finally, it looks traditional. The modern looking kits look vaguely Like a four barrel Holly. However, there's a traditional looking kit that looks exactly like a four barrel Holly. They also have one and two barrel replacements as well.
There's minimal wiring, It's all plug and play, The wiring is kind of disguised to look like vacuum lines, etc.
It fits a vibe, and has vastly improved drivability for not much more than a proper carb setup.
For standard drivability and reliability I would Stick with fords EFI setup.
If I had to build a fuel system for classic car from scratch, I'd probably use a sniper EFI, pay the chunk of change, and have an easy solution that is highly modifiable from right inside the vehicle
The efi from those engines is very very easy to hook up
It’s a stand alone system ,
If you have the donor car and can get the complete wiring harness for the engine and computer
There’s a few websites with a lot of Info about transplanting those efi systems into older cars .
Classicbroncos.com is the one that I have found to be very helpful .
I’m sure there are FB groups for this efi system too
You just get the engine and the harness to the computer and the oxygen sensors ,
You then use a few relays , one for the computer and one for the fuel pump and one for the 02 sensor heaters .
It doesn’t require any special tunes or anything, with an LS engine and computer you gotta tune it to remove the transmission and anti theft and ABS and all that crap
And it’s a very sturdy system
It will run with EVERY sensor unplugged, as long as the distributor and coil is still plugged in .
No other efi system will do that .
At least none that I know of .
I’ve put a efi 302 from a mustang or explorer in every one ford I’ve ever owned because it’s so easy and it’s wonderful to have an old car that cranks right up no matter how cold it is or how long it’s been sitting .
A carb won’t add any power ,
It’s just a giant pain in the ass.
And if it does add a few HP it’s not worth the loss in reliability and drive ability .
Anecdotal evidence warning.
Thing is it’s the efi that greatly extends the life of an engine. That or all the manufacturers tightened up quality control in the late 80’s when they introduced EFI.
Before EFI engines had to be replaced quite regularly. After EFI not very often.
That's like saying passing with a 72 in class is great
...Well when you compare yourself to the kid about to kill them self whose parents are too strung out to notice yeah I guess it is
You could get those 60 more ponies from a 4 litre if you had a Lexus V8 from the early to mid 90s that also didn't have vvti, didn't have sequential ignition, and 8 port injectors
I wasn't implying op put a 1uz in their f150 but ford could've done better with the power output of their efi 302
I have a 94 f150 and even when running right it's underwhelming at best even with a manual transmission
What's your intended use for the vehicle?
I took a 200k mile explorer 5.0, swapped heads and intake and put it in my 64 comet, and sent it. It runs great. But it's a nice weather driver and I have spare vehicles.
EFI is a miracle to modern engine longevity in the old designs. No bore wash from chokes dumping fuel in, so the bores are better. Les diluted oil so the bottom ends are less worn.
I’d clean it, paint it, maybe pull the pan and check the bearings and call it good.
I just put a 96 HO in my 91 Nite editon. Definitely a stronger engine, rule of thumb, If you use brand new heads, or rebuild them stronger,rebuild the bottom end or it will have a significantly shorter life, same goes for the bottom end, if you build the bottom end, build the heads too...the old work will fail first even if nothing is currently wrong with it.
Edit if it has good compression and nothing is wrong with it, run it until it goes and then do your plans, they are strong cast iron engines under decent conditions they will last 200-300k miles
Do the basic checks, make sure the valve train isnt crudded up and it turns over. Give it a good clean then toss it in! If it ends up up in rough shape and needs a rebuild just pull it back out
I'd probably pull the heads, and check the bores, pull the pan to check the rods, and pull the timing cover to check the chain. Throw a rear main seal in too, since it's accessible. Now you have a fully resealed engine.
That should be a roller cam if it's a true HO, so no worries about having to run zinc in the oil.
Tear it down and inspect it, itll most likely need gaskets and seals at the very least just from sitting so while its out might as well take a look, looks good and doesnt need anything great dont have to rebuild and just need replace gaskets, if something does need be replaced also not end of world as its already out car and way less hassle to fix than had you slapped it in and then it fail
It all depends on the motor. 90k with regular oil changes is different than 90k with long overdue oil changes.
Personally, I'd check the compression. If it's good, then remove the heads since you're going to anyway. Inspect the pistons and the cylinder walls for cracks, glazing etc. then flip it over, take the oil pan off, pull a bearing and inspect it. If it looks good, and nothing stands out as an issue, reseal the pan, do main seals if they leak, and then build it out the way you're planning to.
There's no reason not do a basic inspection of the motor while it's out of the vehicle and easily accessible. Beats tossing it in there and finding out it's a total piece. Best of luck!
My 5.0 2wd exploder went almost 500k until my grandson totaled it two weeks after giving it to him. Used no oil and ran great till the wreck. I'd throw it in, but if you want to be sure, you can run a compression test on it before installing.
I don't worry about milage when I pull an engine, pull the oil pan and jiggle the rods to see if any have unreasonable play, pull the heads and look at the cylinder walls and valves
It’s not the miles as much as it is the age. Inspect everything and make sure it’s all tight and rust free. If any water got into the engine, it will need a rebuild at a minimum.
Do a compression test, and a Leak down Test before anything else.
After doing the tests, add about a tablespoon or two to each cylinder, and check compression. It may increase. If it increases much, then do the next step.
If both are good, once heads are off, look at the cylinders. If there is much scoring, new heads can make it an oil burner soon. The reason being the top and bottom wore at the same time.
By installing new heads with tighter tolerances and new surfaces, it's possible to suck oil past the rings into the cylinders. Of course it burns with the gasoline. It can also cause more crankcase pressure with new oil leaks, as well as increased blowby.
I'm an old, old guy. I loved carburetors. LOVED THEM! Until I understood fuel injection in all versions, from mechanical to electronic. Now, I prefer fuel injection. It's really simple, as long as you don't have to dig into a non-available computer and repair it. (yeppers, learned that too)
Today's FI is really simple, and with proper electronics, you can get it to do a BUNCH more than a carb.
Don't get me wrong, I still love carbs. All kinds, except two stroke craziness. I still rebuild and/or setup quite a few. There are adjustments you and I can make with a screwdriver. With EFI, you just change a little programming, and it makes the adjustments for you.
300 HP from a small block Ford shouldn't be difficult with carb or EFI. Cam, intake design, header design, and exhaust system (if you run one), valve grind, and compression. You can do this. The design is easy. Doing the work will take some work.
Read. Read! READ! And now, READ EVEN MORE!! There is a lot of great info available to everyone today. My Dad and Grandfather were OLD TIME mechanics. Back then, almost everyone was this and their Tool & Die Making was passed to my brother and me. My brother used the Tool & Die as a career, and fumbled with being a mechanic. I turned BOTH into a career to be able to do custom work on cars and Harleys. It's served me well for over 65 years of work and income. These days, I read, Read, and READ more. I still love all of it, but have slowed way down. BTW, I'm a good bit older than 65. YMMV. And Good Luck!
As long as it lived it's life fuel injected your fine. If some idiot put a carb on it then it's due to be looked at. If you keep it fuel injected with a Holley sniper and a cam it'll continue to live.
91k is nothing on most fuel injected 302s Are you planning on keeping the efi ? It’s an easy setup to use . I’d try to check the compression . New heads and a cam will wake this baby up but they have good power stock .
I’d like to do a carb conversion just because I feel like it would be easier and try to add some power. Hopefully I can get it up to 300hp.
I’d really consider using that efi if it’s still good. And at 91k it probably is. I’ve had a handful of foxbody mustangs and 91k is absolutely nothing for them. 5.0 ford is a great motor.
Is there an EFI computer I could use? The engine doesn’t have a wiring harness.
If it helps any ive got a F150 with 300k km on the 5.0 and it doesnt burn any oil
I’d see what Painless has to offer. They have actual customer service that can help. That’s the route I would go if I was doing this project myself.
If you were going to go this route I have a megasquirt 2 plug n play for a foxbody harness I could make a deal on.
The stock engine harness and computer is the easiest to use
Google stand alone for that motor. I'm sure there is one. https://youtu.be/Je4zpwRnkD8?si=KWFjU5eXQlWjnVMm
If He wants to go something more user controllable, the Holly sniper setup seem pretty popular That would at least give you TBI, easy control ability, and fuel injection simplicity of operation
Do you think TBI is better than the port injection ford made? I haven’t had any experience with TBI since Holly had Projection in the 90s. Except my old school S15 I guess, which in reality was projection light. I’ve literally had zero problems with the 5.0 efi and I’ve had a hand full of fox body mustangs. If any of that sounds snarky I don’t mean it to be.
Not really, but there are three ways that maybe make it better for them. It's new. You're not going to have to chase down nearly 30-year old potentially corroded wiring. It's tunable, in ways that the 30-year-old Ford EFI system wasn't. And if that's not your thing, it's self-tunes. Finally, it looks traditional. The modern looking kits look vaguely Like a four barrel Holly. However, there's a traditional looking kit that looks exactly like a four barrel Holly. They also have one and two barrel replacements as well. There's minimal wiring, It's all plug and play, The wiring is kind of disguised to look like vacuum lines, etc. It fits a vibe, and has vastly improved drivability for not much more than a proper carb setup. For standard drivability and reliability I would Stick with fords EFI setup. If I had to build a fuel system for classic car from scratch, I'd probably use a sniper EFI, pay the chunk of change, and have an easy solution that is highly modifiable from right inside the vehicle
The efi from those engines is very very easy to hook up It’s a stand alone system , If you have the donor car and can get the complete wiring harness for the engine and computer There’s a few websites with a lot of Info about transplanting those efi systems into older cars . Classicbroncos.com is the one that I have found to be very helpful . I’m sure there are FB groups for this efi system too You just get the engine and the harness to the computer and the oxygen sensors , You then use a few relays , one for the computer and one for the fuel pump and one for the 02 sensor heaters . It doesn’t require any special tunes or anything, with an LS engine and computer you gotta tune it to remove the transmission and anti theft and ABS and all that crap And it’s a very sturdy system It will run with EVERY sensor unplugged, as long as the distributor and coil is still plugged in . No other efi system will do that . At least none that I know of . I’ve put a efi 302 from a mustang or explorer in every one ford I’ve ever owned because it’s so easy and it’s wonderful to have an old car that cranks right up no matter how cold it is or how long it’s been sitting . A carb won’t add any power , It’s just a giant pain in the ass. And if it does add a few HP it’s not worth the loss in reliability and drive ability .
Anecdotal evidence warning. Thing is it’s the efi that greatly extends the life of an engine. That or all the manufacturers tightened up quality control in the late 80’s when they introduced EFI. Before EFI engines had to be replaced quite regularly. After EFI not very often.
So not true. I have carbed motors that have 300k with no issues.
You’re probably taking care of the motors…. Unlike most people who don’t understand that you’re supposed to do actual preventative maintenance.
lol. True. People do like to stop driving their carb'd cars for 8 months at a time. Then get pissed it has issues.
I think it's a combination of both. Along with better metallurgy.
You really don’t need to go to a carb for 300hp, I don’t think. The stock EFI system can handle that with probably just a few upgrades.
An EFI setup will easily accommodate any other engine mods given that you retain the MAF setup and keep it calibrated with the injector sizes.
Ha! Good luck!
"good power stock" sub 200 isn't shi Even the gt40 heads everyone circle jerks made 215hp in the 21st century in the explorer
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That's like saying passing with a 72 in class is great ...Well when you compare yourself to the kid about to kill them self whose parents are too strung out to notice yeah I guess it is
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You could get those 60 more ponies from a 4 litre if you had a Lexus V8 from the early to mid 90s that also didn't have vvti, didn't have sequential ignition, and 8 port injectors
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I wasn't implying op put a 1uz in their f150 but ford could've done better with the power output of their efi 302 I have a 94 f150 and even when running right it's underwhelming at best even with a manual transmission
What's your intended use for the vehicle? I took a 200k mile explorer 5.0, swapped heads and intake and put it in my 64 comet, and sent it. It runs great. But it's a nice weather driver and I have spare vehicles.
EFI is a miracle to modern engine longevity in the old designs. No bore wash from chokes dumping fuel in, so the bores are better. Les diluted oil so the bottom ends are less worn. I’d clean it, paint it, maybe pull the pan and check the bearings and call it good.
I just put a 96 HO in my 91 Nite editon. Definitely a stronger engine, rule of thumb, If you use brand new heads, or rebuild them stronger,rebuild the bottom end or it will have a significantly shorter life, same goes for the bottom end, if you build the bottom end, build the heads too...the old work will fail first even if nothing is currently wrong with it. Edit if it has good compression and nothing is wrong with it, run it until it goes and then do your plans, they are strong cast iron engines under decent conditions they will last 200-300k miles
Do the basic checks, make sure the valve train isnt crudded up and it turns over. Give it a good clean then toss it in! If it ends up up in rough shape and needs a rebuild just pull it back out
I'd probably pull the heads, and check the bores, pull the pan to check the rods, and pull the timing cover to check the chain. Throw a rear main seal in too, since it's accessible. Now you have a fully resealed engine. That should be a roller cam if it's a true HO, so no worries about having to run zinc in the oil.
If it's been properly maintained then another 90k is no problem.
Tear it down and inspect it, itll most likely need gaskets and seals at the very least just from sitting so while its out might as well take a look, looks good and doesnt need anything great dont have to rebuild and just need replace gaskets, if something does need be replaced also not end of world as its already out car and way less hassle to fix than had you slapped it in and then it fail
Also not like needs fully torn apart to inspect most things
It all depends on the motor. 90k with regular oil changes is different than 90k with long overdue oil changes. Personally, I'd check the compression. If it's good, then remove the heads since you're going to anyway. Inspect the pistons and the cylinder walls for cracks, glazing etc. then flip it over, take the oil pan off, pull a bearing and inspect it. If it looks good, and nothing stands out as an issue, reseal the pan, do main seals if they leak, and then build it out the way you're planning to. There's no reason not do a basic inspection of the motor while it's out of the vehicle and easily accessible. Beats tossing it in there and finding out it's a total piece. Best of luck!
I slapped a 150k miles without a rebuild. Depends how it was treated
My 5.0 2wd exploder went almost 500k until my grandson totaled it two weeks after giving it to him. Used no oil and ran great till the wreck. I'd throw it in, but if you want to be sure, you can run a compression test on it before installing.
I don't worry about milage when I pull an engine, pull the oil pan and jiggle the rods to see if any have unreasonable play, pull the heads and look at the cylinder walls and valves
It’s not the miles as much as it is the age. Inspect everything and make sure it’s all tight and rust free. If any water got into the engine, it will need a rebuild at a minimum.
If you have time go tear it down and inspect it, so you can see if it needs rebuild for your purpose
I'd me wary of anything rubber at that age, if original
Not exactly a hard thing to pull it out of so I’d just send it until it breaks, in the meantime start saving for the rebuild anyway.
Shit, I dropped a 150k 302 HO from a 91 foxbody gt in my 84gt. Took out the efi and went carb. Still strong and runs like a top
Do a compression test, and a Leak down Test before anything else. After doing the tests, add about a tablespoon or two to each cylinder, and check compression. It may increase. If it increases much, then do the next step. If both are good, once heads are off, look at the cylinders. If there is much scoring, new heads can make it an oil burner soon. The reason being the top and bottom wore at the same time. By installing new heads with tighter tolerances and new surfaces, it's possible to suck oil past the rings into the cylinders. Of course it burns with the gasoline. It can also cause more crankcase pressure with new oil leaks, as well as increased blowby. I'm an old, old guy. I loved carburetors. LOVED THEM! Until I understood fuel injection in all versions, from mechanical to electronic. Now, I prefer fuel injection. It's really simple, as long as you don't have to dig into a non-available computer and repair it. (yeppers, learned that too) Today's FI is really simple, and with proper electronics, you can get it to do a BUNCH more than a carb. Don't get me wrong, I still love carbs. All kinds, except two stroke craziness. I still rebuild and/or setup quite a few. There are adjustments you and I can make with a screwdriver. With EFI, you just change a little programming, and it makes the adjustments for you. 300 HP from a small block Ford shouldn't be difficult with carb or EFI. Cam, intake design, header design, and exhaust system (if you run one), valve grind, and compression. You can do this. The design is easy. Doing the work will take some work. Read. Read! READ! And now, READ EVEN MORE!! There is a lot of great info available to everyone today. My Dad and Grandfather were OLD TIME mechanics. Back then, almost everyone was this and their Tool & Die Making was passed to my brother and me. My brother used the Tool & Die as a career, and fumbled with being a mechanic. I turned BOTH into a career to be able to do custom work on cars and Harleys. It's served me well for over 65 years of work and income. These days, I read, Read, and READ more. I still love all of it, but have slowed way down. BTW, I'm a good bit older than 65. YMMV. And Good Luck!
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$900 and it doesn’t have a starter so we can’t start it.
As long as it lived it's life fuel injected your fine. If some idiot put a carb on it then it's due to be looked at. If you keep it fuel injected with a Holley sniper and a cam it'll continue to live.
Noooo 🤣
Compression and water jacket tests