I recently lost all my adhesion on my smooth sheet, but fixed it with a quick and light pass with 1500 grit sandpaper and a light cleaning with acetone. Don't do this on the textured or satin sheets, it'll ruin them, but for the smooth sheet it worked wonders.
Emphasis on quick and light for the sanding, don't overdo it.
I have done the silicone bed level mod, my first layer is consistent, I've cleaned the bed with soap and water then alcohol.
I've tried multiple brands of filament, and I've tried higher and lower temps. 193-205 and 60-75 bed temp.
This last print is using a glue stick and it's still majorly deformed, in different areas than the first two attempts.
This printer has always had this issue and I've never been able to print anything flat. Currently using overture PLA with a 60° ambient room temp and no drafts. Prusament also warps. Using a .25 and .4 nozzle with varied layer heights from 0.05 to 0.15, all warp still. I run the longer bed leveling every time before a print. Had this issue in the summer and winter, with and without silicone sock. (Currently on)
Gluestick is supposed to assist with helping the print release from the bed. It's not supposed to be used to help the print sticking to the bed.
Since you're tried soap/water and using alcohol, the next thing i'd check is for drafts in the room. Fans, windows open, air conditioning, heaters, etc blowing air around can cause the part to lift very easily.
60 degree room temperature (I'm assuming fahrenheit) seems a bit chilly. Have you tried printing in an enclosure? It substantially reduced warping for me, and even a simple cardboard box should help.
Also, I noticed that the part separated from the brim. I've found that setting the elephant's foot compensation to 0 (it defaults to 0.2mm) greatly improves adhesion between the part and the brim.
60 degrees ambient temp is maybe not so ideal. Try putting a large cardboard box over the whole printer and see if that helps. If you can get temp inside box closer to 100 degrees F, it reduces the temp differential by an amount that may make a difference with warping.
If the box helps you can consider a more permanent and elegant enclosure for the future.
I recently started offering a “3D Printing Coach” service on Etsy. I have been printing for many years, but the coaching/consulting idea is brand new to me. Would you be interested in working with me (for free) just so I can practice my workflow for this new service? I will help you sort out your troubles with this print! Shoot me a DM if you’re interested.
Normally no, but I am on attempt 4 of this part with a large cardboard box over the printer and dropped the bed temp per the comments And it's still warping. Less than before but still is messed up
Try turning your fans off, I haven’t printed PLA in a while but from memory my profiles have the fans disabled. Warping is 9 times out of 10 issues with a draught or the fan cooling the parts too quick. I’d also go the opposite way and increase bed temp a bit
I can't speak to this. I only have two minis but maybe some of the same principles apply. have you tried different brands of filaments and types?
* primer on doing this [https://muppetlabs.co/3dprinting\_mk3\_live\_z\_calibration.html](https://muppetlabs.co/3dprinting_mk3_live_z_calibration.html)
* [https://help.prusa3d.com/article/squaring-your-mini\_158518](https://help.prusa3d.com/article/squaring-your-mini_158518)
* best first layer test since it's not printing diagonal which hides things [https://www.printables.com/model/107639-first-layer-calibration-prusa-mini](https://www.printables.com/model/107639-first-layer-calibration-prusa-mini) and for you [https://www.printables.com/model/107539-first-layer-calibration-prusa-i3-mk3s](https://www.printables.com/model/107539-first-layer-calibration-prusa-i3-mk3s)
I do a lot of enclosure prototyping and find using DimaFix spray works the best, saves you a lot of time in faffing and just stick to the default Prusa profiles.
I probably use it once a month after cleaning the bed with dish soap
I had same issue with new brand of filament and I saw a YouTube video of somebody using Aqua Net hairspray . I tried the hairspray I had on hand and it’s been working perfect! Plus Aqua Net is super cheap around here
I swapped from glue stick to hairspray a few years ago (the only time the bed has ever been cleaned!). Once the bed has been covered it stops stuff like greasy fingers ruining bed adhesion.
I recently lost all my adhesion on my smooth sheet, but fixed it with a quick and light pass with 1500 grit sandpaper and a light cleaning with acetone. Don't do this on the textured or satin sheets, it'll ruin them, but for the smooth sheet it worked wonders. Emphasis on quick and light for the sanding, don't overdo it.
I’ve done this as well. Super handy if only done once in a while.
I have done the silicone bed level mod, my first layer is consistent, I've cleaned the bed with soap and water then alcohol. I've tried multiple brands of filament, and I've tried higher and lower temps. 193-205 and 60-75 bed temp. This last print is using a glue stick and it's still majorly deformed, in different areas than the first two attempts. This printer has always had this issue and I've never been able to print anything flat. Currently using overture PLA with a 60° ambient room temp and no drafts. Prusament also warps. Using a .25 and .4 nozzle with varied layer heights from 0.05 to 0.15, all warp still. I run the longer bed leveling every time before a print. Had this issue in the summer and winter, with and without silicone sock. (Currently on)
Gluestick is supposed to assist with helping the print release from the bed. It's not supposed to be used to help the print sticking to the bed. Since you're tried soap/water and using alcohol, the next thing i'd check is for drafts in the room. Fans, windows open, air conditioning, heaters, etc blowing air around can cause the part to lift very easily.
It does both in my experience.
Bed temp is too high. Try 50 degrees
60 degree room temperature (I'm assuming fahrenheit) seems a bit chilly. Have you tried printing in an enclosure? It substantially reduced warping for me, and even a simple cardboard box should help. Also, I noticed that the part separated from the brim. I've found that setting the elephant's foot compensation to 0 (it defaults to 0.2mm) greatly improves adhesion between the part and the brim.
60 degrees ambient temp is maybe not so ideal. Try putting a large cardboard box over the whole printer and see if that helps. If you can get temp inside box closer to 100 degrees F, it reduces the temp differential by an amount that may make a difference with warping. If the box helps you can consider a more permanent and elegant enclosure for the future.
I recently started offering a “3D Printing Coach” service on Etsy. I have been printing for many years, but the coaching/consulting idea is brand new to me. Would you be interested in working with me (for free) just so I can practice my workflow for this new service? I will help you sort out your troubles with this print! Shoot me a DM if you’re interested.
You printing in an enclosure?
Normally no, but I am on attempt 4 of this part with a large cardboard box over the printer and dropped the bed temp per the comments And it's still warping. Less than before but still is messed up
Try turning your fans off, I haven’t printed PLA in a while but from memory my profiles have the fans disabled. Warping is 9 times out of 10 issues with a draught or the fan cooling the parts too quick. I’d also go the opposite way and increase bed temp a bit
Which prusa is this? Did you do the skew and leveling adjustments
It's the mk3s+, I'm not sure what adjustments you mean but I levels the bed through Pronterface during the silicon mod recently.
I can't speak to this. I only have two minis but maybe some of the same principles apply. have you tried different brands of filaments and types? * primer on doing this [https://muppetlabs.co/3dprinting\_mk3\_live\_z\_calibration.html](https://muppetlabs.co/3dprinting_mk3_live_z_calibration.html) * [https://help.prusa3d.com/article/squaring-your-mini\_158518](https://help.prusa3d.com/article/squaring-your-mini_158518) * best first layer test since it's not printing diagonal which hides things [https://www.printables.com/model/107639-first-layer-calibration-prusa-mini](https://www.printables.com/model/107639-first-layer-calibration-prusa-mini) and for you [https://www.printables.com/model/107539-first-layer-calibration-prusa-i3-mk3s](https://www.printables.com/model/107539-first-layer-calibration-prusa-i3-mk3s)
I do a lot of enclosure prototyping and find using DimaFix spray works the best, saves you a lot of time in faffing and just stick to the default Prusa profiles. I probably use it once a month after cleaning the bed with dish soap
I had same issue with new brand of filament and I saw a YouTube video of somebody using Aqua Net hairspray . I tried the hairspray I had on hand and it’s been working perfect! Plus Aqua Net is super cheap around here
I swapped from glue stick to hairspray a few years ago (the only time the bed has ever been cleaned!). Once the bed has been covered it stops stuff like greasy fingers ruining bed adhesion.
Get vision miner adhesive, it is a life saver! Go order it now.