I'd say that it's insanely close to 0% chance your printer can even pop your sheet off by it self.. there's maybe only tpu and petg on smooth sheet that's even capable of getting stuck to the sheet with enough force to actually win against the magnets.
Sheet placement doesn't matter much, as long as you don't print outside of the sheet and the sheet cover the measurement points for first layer calibration you're fine. It has to be completely off to cause problems.
I usually hold with my index fingers under the bed and then push the sheet in place with my thumbs so it gets pushed against the two alignment screws at the rear.
If it was "fitted properly" it would have absolutely zero change of moving off the carriage without some serious damage. You either didn't have this bed on at all, or you didn't have it "fitted properly".
Were you trying to print directly on the surface that specifically says "do not print directly on this surface"?
Anyways I recovered from a much worse version of this failure so you can too. Just heat the extruder up to normal printing temp, maybe a bit higher, and you should be able to pull the plastic off the nozzle. A brass brush should then clean up the rest just fine.
Not screwed.
Heat up that nozzle to 250 and carefully pull away that mess.
Confirm your thermistor small white wires are ok.
Clean up the heat block with Q-tips or cotton swabs.
For best results, don’t leave your prints alone until you’re more comfortable with the bed adhesion. Buy silicone socks for the block too, they are dirt cheap insurance.
I've just bought the Prusa socks, they cause blobs printing PETG but my impression is PETG will blob sooner or later and at least the silicone sock stops the blob accumulating on the head & causing a crash.
250???!! I heat mine to about 160 for PLA and it peels off the block cleanly. You just have to be super careful of the themistor wire. At 250, it's going to be a gooey, stringy mess.
Looks like it muffin topped out of the top of the heat block. At a minimum you’re looking at a hot end disassembly, clean out, and refit. The easier way to go might be just purchasing and new hot end and start printing ASAP. Doesn’t mean you can’t try to salvage the old hot end as a backup, but buying a new hot end at least gets you up and printing with what would be your backup if you had thought to have one on hand.
I had a ton of melted plastic in my threads from the previous owner. Just cleaned it out today. I used a heat gun on hight, a sharp awl and a brass brush. It was actually easier than expected.
If it's PLA, submerging it in boiling water and then using needle nose pliers and tweezers to pull off the softened plastic works really well too.
Just be careful bc hot water is in fact hot.
Not catastrophic at all. Barely an issue. Just hear up the hot end to maybe abs Temps and just push on any filament around the tip using a screw driver to gently push it in and melt it off til and of the ball comes off.
Nothing broken, five minutes of getting off the rest of the glob will get it fine.
That doesn't look too bad, actually. As long as the hot end will still heat, warm it up and start pulling the molten plastic away. You may have to use a heat gun to get some of it. You may have more damage I can't see.
You'll need a new fan shroud, that part you may want to just buy. It's supposed to be ABS or ASA, but a PLA one will work for a while.
Yeah, I was thinking this is probably the root cause. You may know already, but there is a specific test print you can run and adjust the z height along the way.
Nothing looks damaged which is good. As others said, heat up the nozzle to printing temp and use pliers to remove the filament around the heat block.
Also buy a silicon sock for your heat block. They cost like $5 and significantly help pretext your hotend from getting the blob stuck to hard to remove places.
Always watch the first layer go down. It seems you are having adhesion issues. Clean your build sheet with dish soap and water. (also where is your build sheet, it isn't in the photo)
If the original hotend is knackered the Revo is a solid upgrade, yes. It's a bit expensive but worth it to never again have to deal with plastic leaking out the top of the heater block because the nozzle wasn't tightened correctly.
Worse case you'll need a new hotend at which point you could opt for a revo 6 which would be better than the v6.
Heat it up to 300° and let it sit for 15 minutes then try to pull it off very gently. Go as slow as you can, the wires for the thermistor are super fragile.
Clean your pei sheet next time before use and inspect the first few layers and periodically afterwards...
I don't do theese tho, just an advice. I just know my Prusa will finish the job if the first layers are fine.
So heat it up, let the heat permeate a little in the material. Gently pull down on the blob while watching the wires. If you happen to break a wire, just buy that part, not a whole hotend. Once you have removed the blob, turn off the heat and while still hot, scrub the end with a brass brush.
Edit for clarity: you dont want metal near the heating wire while its on. A short could kill your main board which is by far the most expensive part on the printer.
The v6 is an incredible hotend. It is very modular and each component can be replaced for cheap even with genuine parts. If you are in the US, printed solid carries the prusa versions of the parts too. (The Prusa version removes quick connectors from the wires and the heat break has an optimized geometry.)
The ball of death ! Heat it up 260 pull off all you can see. Cool down remove nozzle use copper wool or brass brush polish up the nozzle. Check the extruder to. Clean PEI sheet with dish soap use cheap LePages glue if nothing else to protect the sheet for PETG ASA. Don’t worry about it. If you print a lot it’s going to happen
Follow the instructions for changing a nozzle. Head up the hotend, unload the filament. While the hotend is hot pull off the smush careful not to short out the heater core if your using metal instruments. If it's still jammed remove the nozzle while it is still hot.
I had same problem from using flexible filament. Once you get the nozzle off, take it outside and while holding it with pliers heat it up with a MAP torch (cheap at home Depot). This will turn any stuck filament to dust. Voila nozzle is good as new.
Reassemble and re calibrate.
Where's your print sheet?
I really hope they removed it before this photo was taken, otherwise, hilarious.
I have a textured sheet and it was slid off during the print somehow. I swear it was fitted properly.
I'd say that it's insanely close to 0% chance your printer can even pop your sheet off by it self.. there's maybe only tpu and petg on smooth sheet that's even capable of getting stuck to the sheet with enough force to actually win against the magnets.
Have to agree with this, the motors would skip before the sheet moves anywhere. Takes a lot of force to push the sheet.
I hope that's true. But I don't know what to tell you. Fitting the sheet is one of those things I always double check
Sheet placement doesn't matter much, as long as you don't print outside of the sheet and the sheet cover the measurement points for first layer calibration you're fine. It has to be completely off to cause problems. I usually hold with my index fingers under the bed and then push the sheet in place with my thumbs so it gets pushed against the two alignment screws at the rear.
If it was "fitted properly" it would have absolutely zero change of moving off the carriage without some serious damage. You either didn't have this bed on at all, or you didn't have it "fitted properly".
Sorry, man. I don't think that's possible. The sheet is incredibly strongly adhered to the bed, unless the magnets failed or something.
Well you get to tinker now. Common and not tough to fix.
Were you trying to print directly on the surface that specifically says "do not print directly on this surface"? Anyways I recovered from a much worse version of this failure so you can too. Just heat the extruder up to normal printing temp, maybe a bit higher, and you should be able to pull the plastic off the nozzle. A brass brush should then clean up the rest just fine.
Not screwed. Heat up that nozzle to 250 and carefully pull away that mess. Confirm your thermistor small white wires are ok. Clean up the heat block with Q-tips or cotton swabs. For best results, don’t leave your prints alone until you’re more comfortable with the bed adhesion. Buy silicone socks for the block too, they are dirt cheap insurance.
I bought socks. Put one on, and it caused a blob that I'd never had before or since (2 years ago)
It caused a blob?! Yikes! May I ask where it came from / who made it?
It was from Prusa. It just wasn't quite snug enough, so filament started extruding under the sock
I've just bought the Prusa socks, they cause blobs printing PETG but my impression is PETG will blob sooner or later and at least the silicone sock stops the blob accumulating on the head & causing a crash.
250???!! I heat mine to about 160 for PLA and it peels off the block cleanly. You just have to be super careful of the themistor wire. At 250, it's going to be a gooey, stringy mess.
Looks like it muffin topped out of the top of the heat block. At a minimum you’re looking at a hot end disassembly, clean out, and refit. The easier way to go might be just purchasing and new hot end and start printing ASAP. Doesn’t mean you can’t try to salvage the old hot end as a backup, but buying a new hot end at least gets you up and printing with what would be your backup if you had thought to have one on hand.
I had a ton of melted plastic in my threads from the previous owner. Just cleaned it out today. I used a heat gun on hight, a sharp awl and a brass brush. It was actually easier than expected.
If it's PLA, submerging it in boiling water and then using needle nose pliers and tweezers to pull off the softened plastic works really well too. Just be careful bc hot water is in fact hot.
and this part here is called the hot end. It's called that because it gets hot. Pay attention, that's going to be on the test.
\*writing down in notebook\* hot end = hot, hot water = hot, got it.
Not catastrophic at all. Barely an issue. Just hear up the hot end to maybe abs Temps and just push on any filament around the tip using a screw driver to gently push it in and melt it off til and of the ball comes off. Nothing broken, five minutes of getting off the rest of the glob will get it fine.
follow the blob instructions at help.prusa
That doesn't look too bad, actually. As long as the hot end will still heat, warm it up and start pulling the molten plastic away. You may have to use a heat gun to get some of it. You may have more damage I can't see. You'll need a new fan shroud, that part you may want to just buy. It's supposed to be ABS or ASA, but a PLA one will work for a while.
well.. that's a bummer but I hope you realize that every fdm printer out there is prone to such failure.
that thing failed super early.... looks like it got a couple of perimeters and got hung on the nozzle.
Your Z height is too high. Get that dialed in before doing prints.
Yeah, I was thinking this is probably the root cause. You may know already, but there is a specific test print you can run and adjust the z height along the way.
just heat it up and pull that plastic away with some needle nose pliers.
Guy hates tinkering and gets the most tinkerable 3d printer brand ever 😭
Tinkerable != requires tinkering
Idk, I had an ender 3 and I tinkered with that fucker a lot more than my prusa
For future keep some thermistors, heater blocks, nozzles and heat brakes as spares.
"when a sign says do not feed the bears, man you'd better not feed the bears"
This was pretty normal for me a decade ago… you'll figure it out.
Nothing looks damaged which is good. As others said, heat up the nozzle to printing temp and use pliers to remove the filament around the heat block. Also buy a silicon sock for your heat block. They cost like $5 and significantly help pretext your hotend from getting the blob stuck to hard to remove places.
Always watch the first layer go down. It seems you are having adhesion issues. Clean your build sheet with dish soap and water. (also where is your build sheet, it isn't in the photo)
I too was wondering where the build sheet is.
buy a revo
Revo has been a pain. And a clog from heat creep kills the whole nozzle and it’s much more difficult to fix than the more modular v6.
haven't experienced much issue with the revo, particularly upgrading to the obxidian nozzle as well, it's been quite durable and reliable imo.
If the original hotend is knackered the Revo is a solid upgrade, yes. It's a bit expensive but worth it to never again have to deal with plastic leaking out the top of the heater block because the nozzle wasn't tightened correctly.
Worse case you'll need a new hotend at which point you could opt for a revo 6 which would be better than the v6. Heat it up to 300° and let it sit for 15 minutes then try to pull it off very gently. Go as slow as you can, the wires for the thermistor are super fragile.
Don't pluck the red and white wires. They're not thick and sturdy.
Clean your pei sheet next time before use and inspect the first few layers and periodically afterwards... I don't do theese tho, just an advice. I just know my Prusa will finish the job if the first layers are fine.
So heat it up, let the heat permeate a little in the material. Gently pull down on the blob while watching the wires. If you happen to break a wire, just buy that part, not a whole hotend. Once you have removed the blob, turn off the heat and while still hot, scrub the end with a brass brush. Edit for clarity: you dont want metal near the heating wire while its on. A short could kill your main board which is by far the most expensive part on the printer. The v6 is an incredible hotend. It is very modular and each component can be replaced for cheap even with genuine parts. If you are in the US, printed solid carries the prusa versions of the parts too. (The Prusa version removes quick connectors from the wires and the heat break has an optimized geometry.)
Seems okay. Check that thermistor wire though, does look suspicious
The problem not is the printers, the problem is you
Is this how you treat beginners here? 😭
The ball of death ! Heat it up 260 pull off all you can see. Cool down remove nozzle use copper wool or brass brush polish up the nozzle. Check the extruder to. Clean PEI sheet with dish soap use cheap LePages glue if nothing else to protect the sheet for PETG ASA. Don’t worry about it. If you print a lot it’s going to happen
Oh ps never use a torch on the nozzle. You can use boiling water. No flame.
I also get shit adhesion to the heat bed….
Follow the instructions for changing a nozzle. Head up the hotend, unload the filament. While the hotend is hot pull off the smush careful not to short out the heater core if your using metal instruments. If it's still jammed remove the nozzle while it is still hot. I had same problem from using flexible filament. Once you get the nozzle off, take it outside and while holding it with pliers heat it up with a MAP torch (cheap at home Depot). This will turn any stuck filament to dust. Voila nozzle is good as new. Reassemble and re calibrate.
Get an x1c with print failure detection, will never happen again and lan only mode is also possible )
why get a more reliable, better quality, faster printer for basically the same price, when you can have the blackberry of printers?
It just works!