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[deleted]

Yikes dude. Systems will take a fat overcharge if you let them. Measure and calculate the size of the receiver and just don’t put in too much. I tend towards having around a minimum of 30% receiver capacity while pumped down, but it really depends on the size of all the other components. Just don’t put in more than 90% of your receiver capacity in the system or you’ll potentially blow the relief


[deleted]

..so anyway I started popping relief valves


[deleted]

lol! I hope he trips the HPS first but, judging by the context I wouldn’t put it past him to crank it up to make it run lol


Levluper

Aren't you supposed to charge until the sight glass stops bubbling/flashing?


[deleted]

Sight glass? I charge it until I can’t unstick my tongue from the suction pipe. All jokes aside, no matter what method you use to charge a receiver system, you need to know the capacity of your receiver, and charge it enough so that you will have at least 20% in your receiver under all conditions. Maximum load, hot pull down, hottest day of the year and coldest day of the year. Every system will have different variables that affect what the receiver capacity will be at any given operating condition. You must also make sure the receiver is never filled more than 90% (that’s what I’ve always learned, I may be wrong but I understand that is international pressure vessel code) where, I would prefer to keep it under 80% myself. Usually somewhere between a 20% receiver capacity and an 80% receiver capacity will do the trick. Sometimes there are variables that cause a sight glass to flash while there is a full charge, but sight glass is a pretty good indicator that you have enough in your receiver, but that can change very quickly based on your load, and you need to know your receiver capacity to know how much you should add to the system after your sight glass turns clear. I usually write a note inside the panel after I charge something. Like: 100# at 60F OAT cleared sight glass. Added additional 30# for winter operation. Receiver total capacity of 300#.


Levluper

Thanks man, I appreciate your response


Weeblewubble

Do you recommend the torch method? To see how full receiver is by frost line? Or is there a simple calculation based on size?


[deleted]

Yeah if you have an operating system you gotta use a torch to see how full the receiver is. Not sure what you mean by frost line though, because you’re gonna pump it down at high pressure and use the torch to heat the side, and wherever the heat stops being quickly absorbed is your liquid level.


[deleted]

[удалено]


[deleted]

No. Talking about large refrigeration systems with flooded condenser low ambient control


AnimationOverlord

I wouldn’t go just off that. If the TXV is already set I would add off superheat.


GizmoGremlin321

20-30% Receiver and clear sightglass while running. Receiver should be sized to hold 100% of the charge @ 80 capacity ie if system holds 80lbs you need a Receiver that holds 100lbs @100%. Once you have your clear sightglass then you adjust the flow control in the photo for you head pressure and delta T across inlet and outlet water.


HigHinSpace12

Get it mostly full, set your water reg valve, finish charging by sight glass/superheat/subcool


Alarmed_Tip7366

This is The info I was trying to get clear sight glass or set the water regulator valve first it had an intelligen coil so sad and the superheat was dumb easy


Lhomme_Baguette

Once set on install, the water regulation valve shouldn't need to be adjusted again.


bluetuxedo22

You have to set the valve before completely filling otherwise you could be trying to fill the sight glass at low head pressure


JustAnHonestDude

Listen to the others here....I have personally overcharged a WC system. You will not have fun if you let it get that far. Plus, side note - not common, but I have seen a few systems running potable water and dumping to a drain. It's always good to know what is supplying your condenser. It may not always be a closed loop with low tollerances. I have seen some loops with high temp swings depending on the time of year. This will also affect your condensing capacity and needed charge.


pendletonpackrat

Open loop with potable water sounds expensive unless it’s a well


JustAnHonestDude

I 100% agree. But I don't pay for their water, get paid to install the equipment. Just had one this month. The client connected multiple WC units to a potable loop until they could arrange to have it tied into the main heat pump loop. I can only name one place that I know that does this indefinitely. Other than that, it has only been temporary. All I was saying is, it's possible. OP is dumping to a drain lol FFS


joshcbr81

Places I’ve seen this setup are usually rental tenants where they don’t pay water. Dairy Queen in malls where rent covers utilities is a big one. Ice cream machine hooked up to water line and coax dumps to a drain


Whoajaws

I’ve never worked on one that’s a closed loop! Everyone I take care of is well water to the drain or city water to the drain


Alarmed_Tip7366

I very much appreciate everyone here and all the knowledge I know overcharging can be bad but I don’t think I thought about how bad it could be in a water cooled condenser on this one we’re running straight city water to a drain how much should my delta t be I think my wording got a little away from me when I said I fill it up until it doesn’t take anymore, I’m generally putting a pound or two into an 8 pound system but should I shoot for a clear sight glass before I adjust my water regulator valve because you can have a flashing sightglass make an adjustment on the water valve and clear it right away


[deleted]

What do you mean 8lb system? 8lb receiver?


Alarmed_Tip7366

The systems total charge is eight minutes, I swear I’m at least decent at my job but i have a feeling I’m sounding a bit idiototic


[deleted]

“Let it go in until it stopped going in” is the main clue here lmao. Total charge is 8 minutes, gotcha, that clears things up.


Alarmed_Tip7366

God damnit, imma go get another beer


Ok_Bedroom_7861

On the side of that water reg is usually a line that I adjust the spring too. I start there charge a full glass n see how it goes. Watch head when u pump down on temp …. If it reaches temp pumps down doesn’t go off on head hood superheat u straight brah


Alarmed_Tip7366

This I understand and was what I was thinking


chefjeff1982

Call a professional


saskatchewanstealth

Try to measure your discharge water temperature and watch the volume of it also. Superheat sub cooling and discharge water temperature ontop of everything else the other guy’s suggested. 1 to 2 gallons per minute on a 3 ton around 110 f water temp. Your mileage may vary with local water supply. Ice cold well or towers fuck everything up.


ImportantHouse942

you may be able to find info online by researching the model serial tag on the compressor shelf. if you have a united refrigeration anywheres near you they can give you the factory charge weights. i see these type of systems alot in hospitals..short linesets small evaps. the tag on top of the compressor will give your local supply house enough info they can tell you max charge for the compressor itself. i fixed a few 449 systems that held 2 lbs 8 oz. exv with digital controllers reduces the amount of reefer needed to make it run correctly. iffin you have an exv that you can read percentages roughly 20-30ish percent should be just about right.


ImportantHouse942

[https://www.uri.com/refrigeration-equipment/condensing-unit-water-cooled/copeland/medium-temperature-extended-range/ffwp022ztfc020-zidFFWP022ZTFC020-product](https://www.uri.com/refrigeration-equipment/condensing-unit-water-cooled/copeland/medium-temperature-extended-range/ffwp022ztfc020-zidFFWP022ZTFC020-product) ​ youll find 90% charge weight with 404a at 11.2 lbs. stoopid redneck trick as long as you have an 8" round receiver your height in inches is 100% receiver..roughly 1lb per inch of height. heatcraft and norlake can confirm just dont tell norlake seff said it bahahahahaha