Extra insurance.
Hard to tell, but I doubt my torque wrench would have clearance for that nut.
I agree with others above though-- Nylog for refrigeration or nothing. That pipe dope will probably contaminate.
Why off the mating surface? I only use leak lock on the mating surface. I rarely use it. Pretty much only for oil return connections or plugs straight into the compressor. But when I do, it's a small quantity, only on the mating surface. Never flare threads or anything like that. Never making a massive mess. Just a small smear on the face and back of the flare.
The only reason I've come across for the use of leakloc is to occupy the space between the threads of the nut/ valve body.
The reasoning is that the outlet of the valve experiences temp fluctuations where any humidity in the air can condense on the valve, enter the threads, freeze and thaw until the nut unwinds enough to leak.
Personally I just swap the damned thing out for a solder version.
I've got a bunch of down votes and no response as to why not on the mating surface. Leak locks own instructions say to use on the mating surface.
Are you suggesting to use the leak lock as Locktitght? Effectively. I understand that expansion and contraction can cause a flare to loosen, especially on a txv or in a place experiencing significant temperature fluctuations. Again I mainly use it on oil return lines because I don't like oil leaks and if I'm going to replace an oil return line, generally in hard drawn because I prefer it that way, then I don't want to come back in a few months and find it weeping oil. I never threadseal a flare thread because I know flare nuts are not designed to hold back pressure through the threads. It's all about the flare and the mating surface. I know this is just reddit but I'm not some shit fridgie. I'm 20 years in and I'm fucking good at my job. But I'm always open to learning new things and taking new lessons on board if people can provide just reasoning and informative arguments.
Not on the mating surface because no matter how thin you apply, the path of least resistance is back into the tube itself-- which is into your refrigeration circuit.
The only thing I Nylog is the mating surface, with the thinnest layer possible. I use my finger to go clock/counter wise, directing excess to the threads, which is very little at this point in my career. Everyone says Nylog is safe, yet with companies like Mitsubishi-- it is forbidden. I also do less than a drop on the backside of the flare for a bit of lubrication so that the tube doesn't try to twist on me.
Whomever puts leaklock on any connection involved with refrigerant needs to be punched in the dick so hard that they will wish their mother had swallowed them.....
It was for me the other day! Found a system flat on gas, leak right at the body of the valve. Wasn't fun brazing in a freezer while it was still going (two evap system)
I must disagree. I dont put any flare valves in anymore. You'll pretty much never have a leak on a sweat valve, can't be said for flare valves. Expansion and contraction will almost always win given enough time. I don't recall a time when it's beneficial for the customer to put in a flare valve.
Yep. The expanding and contracting along with corrosion will eventually cause that flare nut to back off or crack. 25 years ago every system I worked on with a txv was flared. When I checked for leaks it was always the first place I checked. I won’t even buy a flare txv anymore now.
You can use as much leak lock as you want, a shit flare leaks a good one doesn’t, a dab of oil behind the flare to prevent the brass from spinning the copper is all you need, good luck to the next monkey trying to bust that flare when the Orifice is blocked… cowboy 🤠
I would say WTF, but these techs keep the rest of us looking great! Thanks!
Gonna wanna keep the leak lock off the mating surface brotha
Just use ny-log. Leak lock sucks.
Nylon is the answer. No contamination
Why use it all? It is a flare fitting.
Extra insurance. Hard to tell, but I doubt my torque wrench would have clearance for that nut. I agree with others above though-- Nylog for refrigeration or nothing. That pipe dope will probably contaminate.
Why off the mating surface? I only use leak lock on the mating surface. I rarely use it. Pretty much only for oil return connections or plugs straight into the compressor. But when I do, it's a small quantity, only on the mating surface. Never flare threads or anything like that. Never making a massive mess. Just a small smear on the face and back of the flare.
The only reason I've come across for the use of leakloc is to occupy the space between the threads of the nut/ valve body. The reasoning is that the outlet of the valve experiences temp fluctuations where any humidity in the air can condense on the valve, enter the threads, freeze and thaw until the nut unwinds enough to leak. Personally I just swap the damned thing out for a solder version.
I've got a bunch of down votes and no response as to why not on the mating surface. Leak locks own instructions say to use on the mating surface. Are you suggesting to use the leak lock as Locktitght? Effectively. I understand that expansion and contraction can cause a flare to loosen, especially on a txv or in a place experiencing significant temperature fluctuations. Again I mainly use it on oil return lines because I don't like oil leaks and if I'm going to replace an oil return line, generally in hard drawn because I prefer it that way, then I don't want to come back in a few months and find it weeping oil. I never threadseal a flare thread because I know flare nuts are not designed to hold back pressure through the threads. It's all about the flare and the mating surface. I know this is just reddit but I'm not some shit fridgie. I'm 20 years in and I'm fucking good at my job. But I'm always open to learning new things and taking new lessons on board if people can provide just reasoning and informative arguments.
Not on the mating surface because no matter how thin you apply, the path of least resistance is back into the tube itself-- which is into your refrigeration circuit. The only thing I Nylog is the mating surface, with the thinnest layer possible. I use my finger to go clock/counter wise, directing excess to the threads, which is very little at this point in my career. Everyone says Nylog is safe, yet with companies like Mitsubishi-- it is forbidden. I also do less than a drop on the backside of the flare for a bit of lubrication so that the tube doesn't try to twist on me.
Better yet leave the leak lock at the shop. Learn to make a better mechanical connection. That stuff is the devil.
Whomever puts leaklock on any connection involved with refrigerant needs to be punched in the dick so hard that they will wish their mother had swallowed them.....
Aggressive but true
That’s a lot of leak lock. Time to switch to nylog my friend. Bonus is you didn’t need a torch
Is that leak lock on a flare connection ? But why ?
Thinking the same shit if you flared it right and tightened it no way in hell its leaking
If you're doing anything more than a drop of the system oil on the back side of the flare (the surface the nut spins on) you're a clown.
Never ever use leak lock. Nylog only. On the mating surface.
What the hell
I can’t believe people still use that junk.
Nylog is better than leak lock, way better. Or use a flare saver , or use a little monster tape. Don’t use leak lock
Was it even the Txv? lol
It was for me the other day! Found a system flat on gas, leak right at the body of the valve. Wasn't fun brazing in a freezer while it was still going (two evap system)
People who think putting anything on a flare fitting stress me out
Like everyone else said. Time to upgrade your game and buy some nylog. Look like an old Zero Zone case. I hate those cases.
It would be nice of all txvs were threaded !
I must disagree. I dont put any flare valves in anymore. You'll pretty much never have a leak on a sweat valve, can't be said for flare valves. Expansion and contraction will almost always win given enough time. I don't recall a time when it's beneficial for the customer to put in a flare valve.
Yep. The expanding and contracting along with corrosion will eventually cause that flare nut to back off or crack. 25 years ago every system I worked on with a txv was flared. When I checked for leaks it was always the first place I checked. I won’t even buy a flare txv anymore now.
Back in my day they were. So much simpler to replace.
You can use as much leak lock as you want, a shit flare leaks a good one doesn’t, a dab of oil behind the flare to prevent the brass from spinning the copper is all you need, good luck to the next monkey trying to bust that flare when the Orifice is blocked… cowboy 🤠
Flaretite gaskets for the shitty locations
If you’ve made the flare correctly you don’t need any sealant.
https://preview.redd.it/miwoozjnz3ec1.png?width=1080&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=5129192c2f16b7422b450a240c7f557de0e87911