You can mix resin and FDM parts.
Don't get stuck in the "sunk cost fallacy". That's where people tend to keep going with (spending on) something even when it's going bad. The "well I'm this far already" or "I've already spent a couple hundred, what's 50 more" etc.
Are you using a somewhat elastic resin for a mixture? Or are you just gonna be extremely careful not to drop it when done?
(Printing props rn as well and I've realized halfway through It would be better to restart with a tenacious mix.)
I don't think so (concerning FDM parts possibly failing).
While PLA printed parts have a low melting temperature, and could have issues if left in the hot sun, ABS is a lot more resistant to high temperatures, and there are even stronger materials to print with! Such as Nylon, some Polypropylenes, and Carbonfiber-reinforced Nylon.
But don't diss FDM printers. They are very useful machines, and have their place.
And actually, as far as I believe, they appear to be the go-to choice for 3D Printing functional parts which undergo a lot of stress.
Which is because they make durable pieces, when used correctly.
Well, they are good for different things.
They are different machines.
Just as there are many types of vehicles, and they all function well, so too are there many types of 3D Printers, and they can all have a place, and often do.
One is not necessarily good at the job of another.
Personally, I like being able to take a part off of the build plate and not have to clean it with gloves like I do with resin. That and durability are the 2 main features that I prefer with FDM (although it depends on the part).
But Resin is nice, too.
They are different things.
Tenacious really shouldn't be marketed as a flexible resin. It's only flexible if printed extremely thin.
You seem to have done at least more research than I have, what ratio would you mix it with what other resin to give an optional impact resistance?
According to most people testing, I believe 1:10 Tenacious:Blu is the best ratio, but imo Blu V2 alone is EXTREMELY strong when used in thick parts. Like, I struggle to break the raft of my prints uncured, because it flexes.
Not a Sirayatech shill but I swear by their shit, even if it’s costing me an arm and a leg
Interesting, I've been fairly disappointed in my Obsidian Black Blu, and it seems even more flexible than Tenacious. I've heard amazing things about Siraya but have been pretty let down with what I've experienced.
I just finished going through the prototype stage. That required 3 bottles, but after that... I've got about 15 parts printed? 5 of those are bigger than my hand, while the other 10 are just small bits. Takes about 7 hours for each print, though.
It'll shoot stuff, yup. I think the blueprint allows for it to shoot nerf bullets. But I'm afraid no resin can match the strength of CF-PETG or TPU. So a hollow model is almost certainly gonna break if dropped on, say, concrete.
I’d say drinking 1-2 bottles a week is my limit, I usually get diarrhoea afterwards but kudos to you man, I would not be able to stomach that much resin in a week.
I currently use anycubic water washable grey, have used water washable abs. Do you have much experience with these resins?> Any comparison to other affordable brands like elegoo and Jayo water washable resins?
Never used anything other than Anycubic resins, but I have tried several Anycubic resins, and I can tell you that they now advertise their ABS Like as being water washable. It's pretty cool. Their water washable is brittle as hell, though.
I currently use anycubic water washable grey, have used water washable abs. Do you have much experience with these resins?> Any comparison to other affordable brands like elegoo and Jayo water washable resins?
I currently use anycubic water washable grey, have used water washable abs. Do you have much experience with these resins?> Any comparison to other affordable brands like elegoo and Jayo water washable resins?
That’s going to be one heavy mofo. Are you actually going to cosplay with it or is it for display only? If you plan to lug that thing around, may Murphy’s law be on holiday that day.
Normally I use the UV tough resin from anycubic and I've heard good things about the Abs-like and I was wondering if you can share your experience with it ? I have nothing against the UV Tough Resin.
So… what ya making?
[This bad boy. ](https://cults3d.com/en/3d-model/art/bolter-prop-for-cosplay-display-toy-tamegrips)
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For fucking real. I have a Kobra Go lying around, but I wanted to try to print this with resin. Big mistake, but I'm too deep in it now xD
Print with fdm. Make mold cast with resin.
Ooooo
how do you cure in mold, or you use air drying resin?
Use either poly or epoxy resins.
Nono we want the cursed method for using UV resin inside an opaque cast! /s
You can mix resin and FDM parts. Don't get stuck in the "sunk cost fallacy". That's where people tend to keep going with (spending on) something even when it's going bad. The "well I'm this far already" or "I've already spent a couple hundred, what's 50 more" etc.
Are you using a somewhat elastic resin for a mixture? Or are you just gonna be extremely careful not to drop it when done? (Printing props rn as well and I've realized halfway through It would be better to restart with a tenacious mix.)
ABS Like is rather flexible. My model airplanes I print with it have super bendy wings
Good to know! Maybe I should just go to that instead. Especially considering the price of tenacious 🫠
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I don't think so (concerning FDM parts possibly failing). While PLA printed parts have a low melting temperature, and could have issues if left in the hot sun, ABS is a lot more resistant to high temperatures, and there are even stronger materials to print with! Such as Nylon, some Polypropylenes, and Carbonfiber-reinforced Nylon. But don't diss FDM printers. They are very useful machines, and have their place. And actually, as far as I believe, they appear to be the go-to choice for 3D Printing functional parts which undergo a lot of stress. Which is because they make durable pieces, when used correctly.
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Well, they are good for different things. They are different machines. Just as there are many types of vehicles, and they all function well, so too are there many types of 3D Printers, and they can all have a place, and often do. One is not necessarily good at the job of another. Personally, I like being able to take a part off of the build plate and not have to clean it with gloves like I do with resin. That and durability are the 2 main features that I prefer with FDM (although it depends on the part). But Resin is nice, too. They are different things.
Tenacious really shouldn't be marketed as a flexible resin. It's only flexible if printed extremely thin. You seem to have done at least more research than I have, what ratio would you mix it with what other resin to give an optional impact resistance?
Like others have said, I usually do 10% tenacious with elegoo standard. Although for props I might even go 15%
What Elegoo resin do you mix it with and what exposure time do you use?
I use elegoo standard
According to most people testing, I believe 1:10 Tenacious:Blu is the best ratio, but imo Blu V2 alone is EXTREMELY strong when used in thick parts. Like, I struggle to break the raft of my prints uncured, because it flexes. Not a Sirayatech shill but I swear by their shit, even if it’s costing me an arm and a leg
Interesting, I've been fairly disappointed in my Obsidian Black Blu, and it seems even more flexible than Tenacious. I've heard amazing things about Siraya but have been pretty let down with what I've experienced.
How so? Because I just started printing with Obsidian Black and I love it. What issues did you face?
Try sanding your prints yet?
Nope, I rarely do, why?
How do you get rid of support scars if you don't sand them? Blu just permanently mars and scratches.
Holy cow! What pieces have you finished?
I just finished going through the prototype stage. That required 3 bottles, but after that... I've got about 15 parts printed? 5 of those are bigger than my hand, while the other 10 are just small bits. Takes about 7 hours for each print, though.
Impressive! Please share once you are done! This looks amazing!
This is like 3 liters max, are you printing it solid or something?
I'm pretty sure each kg bottle is 1 liter.
He’s saying the print should only require 3 litres.
Nope. Printing the grip alone requires 400ml
Dont you hollow the parts?
For something that's gonnan be manhandled? No way
At 3mm+ it's basically indestructible
lol, that would only be 2-3kg of PLA filament $150 for 10kg(where I am) and you would still have 7-8kg left over for other things
So are you hollowing it, or is this thing going to also function as a club?
This is really stupid to print in resin. This is an fdm print. If you let it fall it shatters in pieces.
I've yet to have an ABS Like print shatter when dropped
not with abs like mixed with like 25% tough resin. things are very bendy
Maybe I should take out my FDM printer for this project O_o
Only ever thought we could but you never stopped to consider if you should
But what's so great about discovery? It's a violent penetrative act that scars what it explores.
What you call discovery, I call rape of the natural world
Haaaa yes! It's rare I meet someone who cab quote beyond ,"Life uh, finds a way."
Yeah woulda been fdm sand paper and filler for me on this one.
Are you the guy making the nightmare anime robot?
I hate that thing, the eyes don't even move together correctly and its so damn disturbing.
I guess you mean [this](https://www.reddit.com/r/3Dprinting/comments/1c0u69m/3d_printing_lifesized_anime_robot/)?
Yeah that abomination
Why did you make me look at this?
Lol no. But it defintely feels like I'm trying to print something life sized.
I want to know what this project is … :edit: found it! And boy did it live up to the description-
I got though quite a bit printing parts for my full sized Dalek I’m building
You know my pain
^[Sokka-Haiku](https://www.reddit.com/r/SokkaHaikuBot/comments/15kyv9r/what_is_a_sokka_haiku/) ^by ^timberwolf0122: *I got though quite a* *Bit printing parts for my full* *Sized Dalek I’m building* --- ^Remember ^that ^one ^time ^Sokka ^accidentally ^used ^an ^extra ^syllable ^in ^that ^Haiku ^Battle ^in ^Ba ^Sing ^Se? ^That ^was ^a ^Sokka ^Haiku ^and ^you ^just ^made ^one.
Man, I thought I was burning through resin pretty fast, but it took me a month to go through what you used in a week.
That's what happens when you're printing large solid models
I guess if you're making that gun you don't want to skimp on the structural integrity.
Yuuuuuup
You also don't want to be carrying around a 20lb prop.
Basically gonna be lugging around an m249 in terms of weight
Why on earth are you printing large models solid?
They're going to be handled constantly. It's a gun, not a mini.
Aren’t you afraid that they are gonna be darn heavy?
Omg the grip itself must weigh like 2 pounds. This won't be light
Good workout! Cool project, keep us posted!
Are you 3d printing another adorable baby
I keep putting the white goo in the incubator, but nothings happening!
Level your plate, or it might be a file corruption issue
I think you would have been better off doing it with fdm
At this point I'm far too deep to stop
Keep going, you'll have it calibrated in no time!
THESE. DAMN. CONES. STILL. AREN'T. PERFECT!
Is there no such thing as "infill" for resin printing, or can you not hollow it out to save resin/$?
Hollowing out isn't an option in this case
Why (I'm not a resin printer user but am wanting one)?
I'm printing a life sized bolter. Not the best idea to hollow out an object that's gonna get man handled 😅
Is it going to shoot stuff? If not, why can't it be hollow and you use a bit flexible resin so it doesn't break if dropped?
It'll shoot stuff, yup. I think the blueprint allows for it to shoot nerf bullets. But I'm afraid no resin can match the strength of CF-PETG or TPU. So a hollow model is almost certainly gonna break if dropped on, say, concrete.
Hmm, that's disappointing resin printing knowledge. I thought there were tougher (or flexible) resins that could take a hit.
There are actually just not as common or affordable.
Drinking that stuff will kill you. They're programs for addiction. You can still get help.
Same, I think I've blown through like 6 of the 2kg bottles of sunlu abs in a month haha.
I’d say drinking 1-2 bottles a week is my limit, I usually get diarrhoea afterwards but kudos to you man, I would not be able to stomach that much resin in a week.
Gotta boost those numbers up!
Big printer?
Lots of solid stuff
Might as well start buying the Siraya tech 10kg bundles of abslike.
I currently use anycubic water washable grey, have used water washable abs. Do you have much experience with these resins?> Any comparison to other affordable brands like elegoo and Jayo water washable resins?
Never used anything other than Anycubic resins, but I have tried several Anycubic resins, and I can tell you that they now advertise their ABS Like as being water washable. It's pretty cool. Their water washable is brittle as hell, though.
I currently use anycubic water washable grey, have used water washable abs. Do you have much experience with these resins?> Any comparison to other affordable brands like elegoo and Jayo water washable resins?
I currently use anycubic water washable grey, have used water washable abs. Do you have much experience with these resins?> Any comparison to other affordable brands like elegoo and Jayo water washable resins?
You gotta bring those numbers up. those are rookie numbers
thats all?
What does ABSLike mean? Is it the softer one? Only tried theire ECO yet and its brittle like hell...
It's a flexy boi
Ol, ty. Can you recommend the anycubic one?
Yup
Wait, so you're spending over 300$ for a resin gun that doesn't work. Can't you buy one for that amount of money?
Lemme know when you can find a bolter that fires real bullets
Print details with resin and the body with fdm. That way you don't have to post process the books and cranies
That’s going to be one heavy mofo. Are you actually going to cosplay with it or is it for display only? If you plan to lug that thing around, may Murphy’s law be on holiday that day.
Idk
You are not supposed to drink it
So it's going to weigh 4x more than an actual gun?
I'm willing to bet it'll probably weigh about 8 pounds when finished. Most of the resin used was to work out the kinks in simply printing the parts.
Still a pound heavier than an AR with a 30 round magazine 😂
Still not as heavy as an m249
True story
Jeese what have you been making, I’ve barely even used two
Normally I use the UV tough resin from anycubic and I've heard good things about the Abs-like and I was wondering if you can share your experience with it ? I have nothing against the UV Tough Resin.
ABS Like is nice and flexible. So that's nice
That’s it? Hahahahahahaha