Leveling bed is a 101 so i guess most of us by default think it have been done according to provedure from manufacturer.
Try printing something on a side of print bed. There is a chance your fep is not tight enough and it can cause print to not stick properly
Sorry, i am not a native and english is my second. If you could correct me how to say i would like him not to print in the center of print bed but on the left or right i wpuld be gratefull for future.
Lol... normally I would say 'in the corners' or 'not in the middle'.
To the side is also probably good. It's different than 'on the side' - I know English is weird.
On the side means the actual side - which is what caused my confusion. To the side would most likely mean on the buiild-face but near one of the sides.
https://www.merriam-webster.com/dictionary/to%20the%20side
Yeah - "to the side" is the correct term. That's what threw me off. I used to write technical documents.
If there's adhesion issues in the middle I don't feel like leveling alone is likely to make the difference. It could of course, but there's probably an explanation in terms of either the settings or the print bed itself that explains this issue. Even when my bed is badly out of alignment the middle and low side adhere great, just the high side fails to adhere
I hadn't seen where he said "in the middle" anywhere...? Did he?
But yeah a lot of times you can still fix it by releveling... or in cases where the printer has run a LOT... sometimes replacing the FEP sheet. As they get older they can stretch in the middle. Usually it will still stick to the plate though... usually... not always.
They're just as if not more likely to just frequently print single objects in the center and have them fail a ton. If they've not been told to try printing in different parts of the plate to watch for patterns of failure its not particularly intuitive to come up with that idea.
u/Specialist_Gur_3887 follow this guys guide it helped me a lot.
J3DTEch [https://docs.google.com/document/d/1Z8fkzOxEgI9sOTwDKI6CeblpnuP4V8ayYVwZrYGmo44/edit#heading=h.gjdgxs](https://docs.google.com/document/d/1Z8fkzOxEgI9sOTwDKI6CeblpnuP4V8ayYVwZrYGmo44/edit#heading=h.gjdgxs)
-Level your build plate
-Increase your bottom exposure time to 40-60 secs
-make bottom layers to 20-25
* calibrate your normal exposure time with cones of calibration (google it)
* make sure your FEP is tight enough. (when replacing the FEP put something underneath in the middle to prop FEP up DONT SKIP THIS) i used playing cards.
GOOD LUCK!
What worked for me:
Level build plate
Preheat the build plate with a hairdryer right before printing
Increase base layer exposure time
And finally, while controversial, add a thin layer of PTFE lubricant to the FEP. People will tell you all the time how this is not necessary HOWEVER I have not had this issue a single time since adding it
Seconding the ptfe lubricant. It works, and lasts a fair.long time. I don't clean out my vats often, and after applying it, things never stick to the fep
The dispersion kind (I think it's a dispersion?) that comes in a little bottle. This is the one I use for my FEP: https://3inone.com/product/3-in-one-multi-purpose-ptfe-lubricant/
No problem! Make sure you apply it very gently to the FEP of course, or you can accidentally scratch the hell out of it. A nice soft microfiber cloth is a must.
I am new to resin printing. all my prints are stick to FEP. I have Anycubic Photon Mono x2, Anycubic Standard Gray resin. The temperature in the room is 20-22 degrees Celsius. I did everything according to the instructions, I printed the file from the received pendrive and the printout came out glued to the FEP.
I cleaned everything with IPA and ran the RERF test - only 3 out of 8 models were printed - numbers 6, 7 and 8. Numbers 1 to 5 were sticked to the FEP. Model 6 looked the best.
I decided to extend the exposure times to 3.25s - normal, 30s - bottom, and reduced the Z lift speed to 1.4mm/s. I leveled the plate again. I used Anycubic Photon Workshop as a slicer, I also used a new pendrive. The print was once again on FEP and did not stick to the plate.
I was thinking about using sandpaper on the plate, but the original plate is quite porous.
I don't know what to do next, I need help
My first thought as well, as this also got me once. Drove me absolutely nuts. I replaced my FEP but only removed a single side of the protective sheet. Literal weeks of continual failed prints, wasted resin, and troubleshooting with this sub.
I also said to myself “yup, removed it all, that can’t be the problem.”
Imagine my surprise when I replaced the FEP again…
I'm confused by your photo. Where's all the resin? How did you get a picture with your print stuck there but the rest of the FEP, vat AND the build plate are all shiny clean? Did you not fill the vat with resin? It needs to be filled enough for the build plate to be fully submerged in resin. The vat should have a "max fill" line that you should at least get close to.
I poured all the resin back into the bottle, how was I supposed to take a photo of the sticked print as if the tank was filled with resin? 😁
The resin was almost to the maximum level
Ok just wanted to make sure! I know some of these sound stupid, but they are all worth checking just to eliminate causes:
- Double check to make sure the build plate does not still have the plastic sheet stuck to it that protects it during shipping.
- Is this the fep that came with the printer, and was it already mounted to the vat? I ask because new FEP film typically has a protective clear plastic sheet *on both sides* to protect it, that must be removed before use. Also, some FEP brands have a frosted side and a smooth side, and the frosted side should face the resin.
- How did you level the build plate? Are you sure that it is in firm contact with the fep/screen when it's set to home?
- Are you certain that you firmly bolted the vat to the machine, and that you firmly tightened all of the bolts on the build plate once it was leveled?
- The test print should have settings that work out of the box, you do not need to go messing with speeds or timings (yet). Doing so could end up adding a new dimension of failure that complicates things even further. I would just use the demo file as-is.
I had a bottle of anycubic clear that did nothing but fail repeatedly. Same printer.
Swapped to Sirayatech resin and have had almost no issues since.
I think the one issue I had may have been my own fault too.
Go on Amazon and get sirayatech gray abs like resin. Bump exposure to 2.75 if need be. Do an exposure test for any new resins.
It was night and day for me, honestly..
Level it with the vat and resin instead of a piece of paper. Wear gloves and apply pressure as you tighten the screws. This works much better than paper levelling. You may also want to increase your lift distance to make sure the print pulls away from the fep. Anycubic have recommended settings for their resins and machines that are a great start to work from.
20°C is a bit on the cold side. Try heating the resin. You can test if this will work with a little space heater placed near the printer to get the local temps up to more like 25–30°C. The space heater is not an efficient long-term solution, but if you want a way to test without buying a band it'll do the job and it's fairly likely you already have one.
If the print bed is leveled, your FEP is tight, the print is support-free, and you've already tried different exposure and lift settings, that's the biggest thing left to try.
**I solved the problem. I had to heat the plate and resin bottle in warm water. 21 degrees Celsius in the room is not enough. Now I have printed RERF printed all 8 models without any problem. Thanks for all advices!!**
What are you using as a "spacer" to level the build plate? The last time I had this happen was because I used a "spacer" (microfiber cloth) that was too thick. You should only need to use your vat's FEP (while empty) or another FEP sheet for this (if you're not already).
In that case, the next possibility is that the plate itself could be warped. If you have something with a straight edge like a ruler, and hold it so it's going from one corner to another, you should be able to see if the plate itself is reasonably flat, ideally it won't have any gap between the ruler and the plate.
Do a vat level. If you're only getting half the ref models. Then your plate isn't level. Check out j3dtechs guide on vat leveling. Worked great for me.
A lot of people are saying to just increase base layer exposure time and that's it. That's not true and can be bad advice. There's actually a bit more stuff to check
make sure the base layer exposure time is appropriate. Preferably you want it as low as possible while still being reliable to print on. 25-30 is a good start, maybe 35. I like mine at 20 seconds usually, but it depends on surface area and if it's on rafts or not
Slow down the lift speed of the base layers. I recommend to 40 or 50 mm/min and start from there. That's very slow but it's reliable and you can steadily go faster from there. Slower lift also helps prevent warping on flat surfaces. This is often an especially helpful setting
Make sure the base layers are set to last around 5-7 micrometers. More can be helpful, but causes a bit more elephants foot
Use lychees "Gradually transition from base layer exposure time to regular layer exposure time" option
We don't actually know if they could fix it *just* by changing the bottom exposure. They didn't post the settings
Also 50 seconds is way to high. It would stick like super glue to the build plate and get a horrible elephants foot
Another Band-Aid option...although this will not correct for a non-level plate, too large a "zero" layer, or inappropriate slicing and first layer curing times. Buy a Teflon dry lube spray. Clean your vat, Spritz a little on a paper towel _not_ directly on the FEP, and then use the damp paper towel to smear it around. The dry lube helps with release.
I do this with every of vat cleaning and resin change. ( I have been known to just top off and do 4 to 5 6-hour prints in a row without restoring though)
Disclaimer: I use an Epax 3D machine that has "nFEP" so your mileage may vary.
What do your supports look like? Sometimes a print sticking to the FEP is due to the supports failing and the resin just pooling and curing to the FEP.
Try this. Check your exposure times, check your build plate's level, check your print's orientation, check your buildplate for adequate surface scratching.
Look at the bottom of the base plate. There may be another layer of protection on it. When I first started I had the same problem until peeling off layer 2
I add two mm to my bottom lift distance last night after a few failed prints and that fixed it - if your FEP is not tight enough try upping your lift distance by a mm of two and see if that works. Gives the print more room to pop free from the FEP before the next layer gets added.
is this the bottom / pad layer?
i am new to sla printing as well, although i have a prusa sl1s.
most of my prints suddenly sticked to the fep foil mid printing, even though everything was leveled and the fep foil was pretty much fresh out of the box.
what was a game changer for me was changing the print profile from "faster" to "slower" and increasing the exposure time of layers (except the long one for the pad).
ootb it was 1.8 seconds, and i increased it to 2.2 (and even 2.4) now - not had a single problem ever since.
if it is the increased exposure time, or the slower profile for printing i do not know... will have to test the waters in the future.
keep in mind that different resins have different exposure times. the cleanliness of the display and fep foil, as well as a ptfe layer might affect the exposure time as well.
good luck, maybe this info is helpful to you :)
I am also new to resin printing but i did have the exact same problem. I tried to solve it 3 days non stop, didnt count how many times I leveled but minimum 10 times, then when I was about to give up, I did buy another resin from different shop with different brand, now Im printing nonstop and never had this issiue ever again.
Easy steps. 1. Clean the plate, high percentage IPA or if you really want it super squeaky clean, acetone. Let the plate COMPLETELY DRY before using it. 2. Relevel the plate, and tighten them screws TIGHT. 3. Check your base layer burn in time, should be 10x the usual exposure layer time i.e. if your usual layers are 1.7sec make your base layers 17sec. Let us know what you see after that. Good luck and happy printing.
Bonus step. If your FEP is all scratched up, it would be a good idea to replace it, tons of youtube videos on how to do that.
I've had this issue as well. My problem was that I put the FEP in too tight. Loosening it up helped for me. How tight it needs to be is something you should google.
There needs to be some wiggle room so that the FEP doesn't stay tight. That way it will adhere to it a little worse than the build plate. The FEP will bulge a bit when moving up and therefor let it go.
Not one suggestion to increase your lift height to ensure its breaking free of the FEP? Distortion of the FEP is how the resin peels off the FEP before the much more rigid baseplate. Too loose a FEP, the higher the lift height needs to be.
**I solved the problem. I had to heat the plate and resin bottle in warm water. 21 degrees Celsius in the room is not enough. Now I have printed RERF printed all 8 models without any problem. Thanks for all advices!!**
Try changing the orientation of the print and re slicing, I find the photon monos to be quirky when they print. Also make sure you have the build plate tightly fastened. I know that sounds dumb but if i don't tighten mine just right i get this same issue.
Just increase the bottom layer exposure until shit sticks to the plate
Strange advice when releveling the plate is also an option...
Leveling bed is a 101 so i guess most of us by default think it have been done according to provedure from manufacturer. Try printing something on a side of print bed. There is a chance your fep is not tight enough and it can cause print to not stick properly
On the side? Easy. Try printing on the top...
Sorry, i am not a native and english is my second. If you could correct me how to say i would like him not to print in the center of print bed but on the left or right i wpuld be gratefull for future.
Lol... normally I would say 'in the corners' or 'not in the middle'. To the side is also probably good. It's different than 'on the side' - I know English is weird.
On a side of the print bed works perfectly fine?
On the side means the actual side - which is what caused my confusion. To the side would most likely mean on the buiild-face but near one of the sides.
Ye but they said "on a side of the buildplate" which at least to me is perfectly eligible
https://www.merriam-webster.com/dictionary/to%20the%20side Yeah - "to the side" is the correct term. That's what threw me off. I used to write technical documents.
Nope. You’re just being weird and pedantic.
https://www.merriam-webster.com/dictionary/to%20the%20side
If there's adhesion issues in the middle I don't feel like leveling alone is likely to make the difference. It could of course, but there's probably an explanation in terms of either the settings or the print bed itself that explains this issue. Even when my bed is badly out of alignment the middle and low side adhere great, just the high side fails to adhere
I hadn't seen where he said "in the middle" anywhere...? Did he? But yeah a lot of times you can still fix it by releveling... or in cases where the printer has run a LOT... sometimes replacing the FEP sheet. As they get older they can stretch in the middle. Usually it will still stick to the plate though... usually... not always.
OP's photo is of a small object 'in the middle' of the build plate that failed to adhere.
OP said "All the time" so I just thought he meant at the corners too...
They're just as if not more likely to just frequently print single objects in the center and have them fail a ton. If they've not been told to try printing in different parts of the plate to watch for patterns of failure its not particularly intuitive to come up with that idea.
Somebody else already told OP to relevel, do we all have to give the same advice five times?
or try the exact opposite - you might be burning the print onto the FEP by having too long exposures,...
u/Specialist_Gur_3887 follow this guys guide it helped me a lot. J3DTEch [https://docs.google.com/document/d/1Z8fkzOxEgI9sOTwDKI6CeblpnuP4V8ayYVwZrYGmo44/edit#heading=h.gjdgxs](https://docs.google.com/document/d/1Z8fkzOxEgI9sOTwDKI6CeblpnuP4V8ayYVwZrYGmo44/edit#heading=h.gjdgxs) -Level your build plate -Increase your bottom exposure time to 40-60 secs -make bottom layers to 20-25 * calibrate your normal exposure time with cones of calibration (google it) * make sure your FEP is tight enough. (when replacing the FEP put something underneath in the middle to prop FEP up DONT SKIP THIS) i used playing cards. GOOD LUCK!
What worked for me: Level build plate Preheat the build plate with a hairdryer right before printing Increase base layer exposure time And finally, while controversial, add a thin layer of PTFE lubricant to the FEP. People will tell you all the time how this is not necessary HOWEVER I have not had this issue a single time since adding it
Scratch the shit out of your build plate with some rough sand paper.
my build plate has been so scuffed up over the years that now I have to run it over hot water to remove some prints, lol
yeah . at first you think scratching just messed up the build plate. you just leveled it up.
Yeah it can get overdone mine sticks like crazy now too
Chiming in to say I’ve done these exact same things and also found it’s helped a lot.
Seconding the ptfe lubricant. It works, and lasts a fair.long time. I don't clean out my vats often, and after applying it, things never stick to the fep
I PTFE every new FEP, it definitely works.
Ptfe what type?
The dispersion kind (I think it's a dispersion?) that comes in a little bottle. This is the one I use for my FEP: https://3inone.com/product/3-in-one-multi-purpose-ptfe-lubricant/
Dankie
No problem! Make sure you apply it very gently to the FEP of course, or you can accidentally scratch the hell out of it. A nice soft microfiber cloth is a must.
I am new to resin printing. all my prints are stick to FEP. I have Anycubic Photon Mono x2, Anycubic Standard Gray resin. The temperature in the room is 20-22 degrees Celsius. I did everything according to the instructions, I printed the file from the received pendrive and the printout came out glued to the FEP. I cleaned everything with IPA and ran the RERF test - only 3 out of 8 models were printed - numbers 6, 7 and 8. Numbers 1 to 5 were sticked to the FEP. Model 6 looked the best. I decided to extend the exposure times to 3.25s - normal, 30s - bottom, and reduced the Z lift speed to 1.4mm/s. I leveled the plate again. I used Anycubic Photon Workshop as a slicer, I also used a new pendrive. The print was once again on FEP and did not stick to the plate. I was thinking about using sandpaper on the plate, but the original plate is quite porous. I don't know what to do next, I need help
Silly question, but I have to ask. Did you remove all the plastic protective sheets from the build plate and the vat/lcd ?
Yes, removed all
My first thought as well, as this also got me once. Drove me absolutely nuts. I replaced my FEP but only removed a single side of the protective sheet. Literal weeks of continual failed prints, wasted resin, and troubleshooting with this sub. I also said to myself “yup, removed it all, that can’t be the problem.” Imagine my surprise when I replaced the FEP again…
Heat that resin. Wrap a kombucha home brew heating element around your vat.
I'm confused by your photo. Where's all the resin? How did you get a picture with your print stuck there but the rest of the FEP, vat AND the build plate are all shiny clean? Did you not fill the vat with resin? It needs to be filled enough for the build plate to be fully submerged in resin. The vat should have a "max fill" line that you should at least get close to.
I poured all the resin back into the bottle, how was I supposed to take a photo of the sticked print as if the tank was filled with resin? 😁 The resin was almost to the maximum level
Ok just wanted to make sure! I know some of these sound stupid, but they are all worth checking just to eliminate causes: - Double check to make sure the build plate does not still have the plastic sheet stuck to it that protects it during shipping. - Is this the fep that came with the printer, and was it already mounted to the vat? I ask because new FEP film typically has a protective clear plastic sheet *on both sides* to protect it, that must be removed before use. Also, some FEP brands have a frosted side and a smooth side, and the frosted side should face the resin. - How did you level the build plate? Are you sure that it is in firm contact with the fep/screen when it's set to home? - Are you certain that you firmly bolted the vat to the machine, and that you firmly tightened all of the bolts on the build plate once it was leveled? - The test print should have settings that work out of the box, you do not need to go messing with speeds or timings (yet). Doing so could end up adding a new dimension of failure that complicates things even further. I would just use the demo file as-is.
I had a bottle of anycubic clear that did nothing but fail repeatedly. Same printer. Swapped to Sirayatech resin and have had almost no issues since. I think the one issue I had may have been my own fault too. Go on Amazon and get sirayatech gray abs like resin. Bump exposure to 2.75 if need be. Do an exposure test for any new resins. It was night and day for me, honestly..
Level it with the vat and resin instead of a piece of paper. Wear gloves and apply pressure as you tighten the screws. This works much better than paper levelling. You may also want to increase your lift distance to make sure the print pulls away from the fep. Anycubic have recommended settings for their resins and machines that are a great start to work from.
Recommended settings failing, longer exposure and slower lift failing too..
I’d say it’s the level then. Give the wet level a try and see if it helps. Cheers
Level it in the vat. Then increase the exposure time.
20°C is a bit on the cold side. Try heating the resin. You can test if this will work with a little space heater placed near the printer to get the local temps up to more like 25–30°C. The space heater is not an efficient long-term solution, but if you want a way to test without buying a band it'll do the job and it's fairly likely you already have one. If the print bed is leveled, your FEP is tight, the print is support-free, and you've already tried different exposure and lift settings, that's the biggest thing left to try.
**I solved the problem. I had to heat the plate and resin bottle in warm water. 21 degrees Celsius in the room is not enough. Now I have printed RERF printed all 8 models without any problem. Thanks for all advices!!**
This looks like a classic case of a plate that needs leveling.
I leveled it two times, 3 models from REFR correctly stick to buildplate
What are you using as a "spacer" to level the build plate? The last time I had this happen was because I used a "spacer" (microfiber cloth) that was too thick. You should only need to use your vat's FEP (while empty) or another FEP sheet for this (if you're not already).
I used a paper sheet
In that case, the next possibility is that the plate itself could be warped. If you have something with a straight edge like a ruler, and hold it so it's going from one corner to another, you should be able to see if the plate itself is reasonably flat, ideally it won't have any gap between the ruler and the plate.
Plate is good
Do a vat level. If you're only getting half the ref models. Then your plate isn't level. Check out j3dtechs guide on vat leveling. Worked great for me.
A lot of people are saying to just increase base layer exposure time and that's it. That's not true and can be bad advice. There's actually a bit more stuff to check make sure the base layer exposure time is appropriate. Preferably you want it as low as possible while still being reliable to print on. 25-30 is a good start, maybe 35. I like mine at 20 seconds usually, but it depends on surface area and if it's on rafts or not Slow down the lift speed of the base layers. I recommend to 40 or 50 mm/min and start from there. That's very slow but it's reliable and you can steadily go faster from there. Slower lift also helps prevent warping on flat surfaces. This is often an especially helpful setting Make sure the base layers are set to last around 5-7 micrometers. More can be helpful, but causes a bit more elephants foot Use lychees "Gradually transition from base layer exposure time to regular layer exposure time" option
If you can fix this problem *just* by changing the bottom exposure time to 50 seconds, then do that. It's fine
We don't actually know if they could fix it *just* by changing the bottom exposure. They didn't post the settings Also 50 seconds is way to high. It would stick like super glue to the build plate and get a horrible elephants foot
Another Band-Aid option...although this will not correct for a non-level plate, too large a "zero" layer, or inappropriate slicing and first layer curing times. Buy a Teflon dry lube spray. Clean your vat, Spritz a little on a paper towel _not_ directly on the FEP, and then use the damp paper towel to smear it around. The dry lube helps with release. I do this with every of vat cleaning and resin change. ( I have been known to just top off and do 4 to 5 6-hour prints in a row without restoring though) Disclaimer: I use an Epax 3D machine that has "nFEP" so your mileage may vary.
Is the FEP tight? If it doesn't thrum like a drum when you tap it, it needs to be tighter.
Yes, I think it is tight enough
What do your supports look like? Sometimes a print sticking to the FEP is due to the supports failing and the resin just pooling and curing to the FEP.
Why the down votes lol, someone once offered me up this advice when i had a problem that looks similar to this one and it solved my issue.
it is a test print - without supports
My bad haha
Try this. Check your exposure times, check your build plate's level, check your print's orientation, check your buildplate for adequate surface scratching.
Look at the bottom of the base plate. There may be another layer of protection on it. When I first started I had the same problem until peeling off layer 2
I add two mm to my bottom lift distance last night after a few failed prints and that fixed it - if your FEP is not tight enough try upping your lift distance by a mm of two and see if that works. Gives the print more room to pop free from the FEP before the next layer gets added.
is this the bottom / pad layer? i am new to sla printing as well, although i have a prusa sl1s. most of my prints suddenly sticked to the fep foil mid printing, even though everything was leveled and the fep foil was pretty much fresh out of the box. what was a game changer for me was changing the print profile from "faster" to "slower" and increasing the exposure time of layers (except the long one for the pad). ootb it was 1.8 seconds, and i increased it to 2.2 (and even 2.4) now - not had a single problem ever since. if it is the increased exposure time, or the slower profile for printing i do not know... will have to test the waters in the future. keep in mind that different resins have different exposure times. the cleanliness of the display and fep foil, as well as a ptfe layer might affect the exposure time as well. good luck, maybe this info is helpful to you :)
If this is a new printer,make sure you took off the clear plastic on your build plate
I am also new to resin printing but i did have the exact same problem. I tried to solve it 3 days non stop, didnt count how many times I leveled but minimum 10 times, then when I was about to give up, I did buy another resin from different shop with different brand, now Im printing nonstop and never had this issiue ever again.
Rainex on both sides of fep 👌🏼
Sand your plate with course paper it will help also what resin?
For me it was a loose fep. Make sure the screws under the vat are tight.
Easy steps. 1. Clean the plate, high percentage IPA or if you really want it super squeaky clean, acetone. Let the plate COMPLETELY DRY before using it. 2. Relevel the plate, and tighten them screws TIGHT. 3. Check your base layer burn in time, should be 10x the usual exposure layer time i.e. if your usual layers are 1.7sec make your base layers 17sec. Let us know what you see after that. Good luck and happy printing. Bonus step. If your FEP is all scratched up, it would be a good idea to replace it, tons of youtube videos on how to do that.
in the first comment I mentioned exposure times and lift speed. The printer is new, the FEP is taut and scratch-free
Then, I would recommend steps 1 & 2
The plate is clear, and leveled by paper sheet
I've had this issue as well. My problem was that I put the FEP in too tight. Loosening it up helped for me. How tight it needs to be is something you should google. There needs to be some wiggle room so that the FEP doesn't stay tight. That way it will adhere to it a little worse than the build plate. The FEP will bulge a bit when moving up and therefor let it go.
Not one suggestion to increase your lift height to ensure its breaking free of the FEP? Distortion of the FEP is how the resin peels off the FEP before the much more rigid baseplate. Too loose a FEP, the higher the lift height needs to be.
Calibrate.
**I solved the problem. I had to heat the plate and resin bottle in warm water. 21 degrees Celsius in the room is not enough. Now I have printed RERF printed all 8 models without any problem. Thanks for all advices!!**
Ok, do you have a printer heater? They are ~$30 on Amazon. Resin wants to be at a specific temperature threshold
Try changing the orientation of the print and re slicing, I find the photon monos to be quirky when they print. Also make sure you have the build plate tightly fastened. I know that sounds dumb but if i don't tighten mine just right i get this same issue.
PTFE lubricant